Pashmina refers to the exquisite art of handcrafting warm luxury wraps and apparel from Cashmere wool. The word Pashmina originates from 'Pashm' which translates to soft gold. Cashmere wool is processed in a series of steps, and each of them is painstaking and meticulous enough to make Pashmina scarves expensive. But those who back traditional art and heritage craft do not concern themselves with the prices but focus attention on the processing part of it. For those who don't know much about the processing, here is a detailed beginner's guide to Pashmina scarves.

Origin of Pashmina scarves

Pashmina comes from processing Cashmere. Cashmere comes from a goat which is found in the high mountain ranges of Ladakh. It is a place called Changthang which lies over 14000 feet above sea level and houses this rare goat, reared by herders. It is this goat whose wool has been long utilized to craft luxury shawls, scarves, and other accessories. The goat grows Cashmere as an undercoat over its underbelly, throat, and more sensitive areas. It is this wool that is painstakingly combed off gently by professionals and herders together. The process is completely ethical and no animal is hurt during the entire process. This hair is sent all the way to Kashmir, as Ladakhis do not have the expertise to process raw wool.

In Changthang, the temperature goes down to -40 degrees C. To survive such a bitter temperature condition, the goats naturally grow Cashmere which is so warm that they freely roam around. It grows as a down coat in the Winter season and sheds naturally in Spring.  

Pashmina scarves: In Kashmir

As soon as raw wool arrives in Kashmir, it is handed over to experienced women who begin with cleaning the raw hair. Pure Cashmere is separated from dirt, vegetable remains guard hair or any other foreign material attached to it. The wool consists of impurities because goats roam all over the Changthang region. This includes places like hilly mountains, rough dusty roads, in addition to their own food materials getting attached to them at times. Cleaning the wool gives us pure threads of Cashmere which are soaked in rice water for three days to lend them extra strength and make them smoother than before. 

Spinning of Raw Wool

To start with, Cashmere threads are removed from the rice powder mixture and cleaned again to get rid of the same. Raw Cashmere is in lumps and needs to be processed to refine it. This is done over a wooden Spinning wheel known as "yinder" locally. Lumps of wool are transformed into the yarn over this spinning wheel. Note that the yarn so produced is delicate, fine, and extremely soft. The diameter of this yarn is just 12-16 microns and sometimes barely visible. 

It is the decades of experience and an extraordinary skill that makes these women the only ones to spin such fine yarn. Kashmiri women, who belong to the underprivileged sections of the society have been associated with spinning yarn for centuries. In fact, this has been the case ever since Pashmina was discovered. Since then it remains a bequeathed profession, and women consider art as a form of worship.

Weaving the Yarn

The yarn produced after spinning is mounted onto a handloom. This process has to be taken exceptional care of, as the raw material is the finest threads of Cashmere. If proper care of Cashmere yarn is not taken, it might break or tear, jeopardizing the quality. Handlooms are native to Kashmir. A traditional handloom is made of wood and the maximum amount of work is done manually. Cashmere yarn is processed for 3-4 days over this handloom and that is how the fabric is produced.

Two men sit on the opposite sides of this handloom. They then work according to a series of steps, which is crucial to the weaving of the fabric. This fabric is later transformed into Pashmina shawls, stoles, scarves, apparel, accessories, and more. Like spinning, weaving is also a centuries-old tradition. While the womenfolk from a family would be associated with spinning, it would always be the men who would choose weaving Cashmere. 

Embroidering Pashmina scarves

Embellishing a plain Pashmina started at the time of Mughal rule. There are motifs, designs, and patterns that have been named after Mughal rulers, and inspired by their architecture. Embroidery remains the first embellishment which rules the world of Pashmina shawls. 

If embroidery is required to be done over a Pashmina, it takes more artisans, more time, and more meticulous efforts. A fully embroidered Pashmina (known as a Jamawar shawl) takes 4-5 years to complete. Needles are thin, threads are exceptionally delicate and intricate, and the area to be embroidered is large. There are artisans who have weakened their eyesight in the process of embroidering. Others have backaches, neck pains, and more health issues. This is especially common in embroidery and spinning. Nevertheless, embroidery done on Pashmina scarves is also an age-old tradition and has been fascinating ever since. 

Washing, Drying, Ironing

Pashmina scarves can't be washed in washing machines or by hand. These are sent for washing to an expert Pashmina washer. He washes the scarves in running spring water by continuously striking them with a hard surface. Cemented structures or simply large stones, which are nearby available can be used

For drying, the scarves are either wrung in a hand-operated spinner or simply spread and left stretched for days together in the sun.

The shawl is finally sent for calendaring. Here it is stretched, ironed, and packed into plastic packets. Later, it is sent to the final retailers who sell the shawls to the final customer

Are Pashmina scarves expensive?

While patrons never look at price tags, there are still buyers who believe that Pashmina scarves are expensive, and moreover, they shouldn't be so. But as we go through this article, or for that matter any write up on Pashmina scarves, and their making, we believe they are not overpriced at all. In fact, the way Pashmina scarves are crafted, they deserve every bit of it. Let us summarize a few points which prove the unparalleled techniques and ways that Pashmina scarves are made, because of which they seem overpriced or expensive.

Rare Cashmere goats

The Raw material for Pashmina scarves comes from the special breed of goats, which are indigenous to the high altitudes of the Himalayas - North India. These goats are not found anywhere else in the world, and as such their fibre is the softest, warm and smooth as compared to its counterparts. This is the reason that Kashmiri Pashmina scarves are better than every other Cashmere scarf in the world.

Manual Efforts of Workers

The time, energy, and labour it takes to process raw Cashmere are noteworthy. From collecting the raw material to the completion of a solid scarf, the process may even stretch to a year. And if the scarf is to be embroidered in jamawar pattern, or a Kani weave, then 3-4 years are spent on one piece

Meticulous efforts, Hardwork

Yarn is hand-spun on a wooden wheel called Yinder. The process is painstaking and thorough, and it takes a lot of time and serious effort to spin a raw yarn. Had it not been a regular practice of local womenfolk, no one would dare to spin Cashmere on the wooden spinning wheel, especially in the times when machines are available for doing it.

Weaving Cashmere on Handloom

The same goes for weaving Cashmere. Cashmere is handwoven on traditional wooden looms. It is a process that requires patience and hard work besides taking a very long time to get completed

Hand Embroidery

Based on the design and intricacy, the embroidery of a Pashmina scarf might take a few years to complete. Some shawls take 5 years, while others may never finish if the main artisan passes away or becomes unable to work in any way

Feathery Light and Warm

Pashmina scarves are airy light, yet they produce such an exceptional amount of heat that no other wrap can beat. A large women's Pashmina scarf weighs around just 300 grams, yet keeps one such warm that you might not even need a sweater in fall and spring.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainability has recently gained more weight when it comes to modern times. It is crucial in today's world, when fast fashion is on a ramp, that we shop responsibly and invest in ethically produced goods. Pashmina scarves are one of them. Raw wool which is a natural fibre, is acquired ethically; it is combed off the body of the goat by professionals, and not plucked or sheared. Then it is handmade all through the making, without the use of machines and minimum waste generated. Pashmina scarf making employs underprivileged artisans, hence helping small businesses grow.

Conclusion

Pashmina scarves support slow fashion, in the way that they last for over 20 years as opposed to fast fashion, where apparel may last for just one season or 2 years at the most. Pashmina scarf makers care about the environment and the future of the planet. And hence pricing is no hurdle for the real admirers of these artfully handmade pieces.

Cashmere is a natural fibre made from the downy undercoat of a Kashmiri goat which is found in the Ladakh region. Cashmere is often used for any type of soft wool, but real and authentic Cashmere comes from Ladakh only. When this exceptionally soft and warm wool is handwoven by the most skilled artisans of Kashmir, the outcome is an extraordinary Cashmere scarf, which has had ancient royalty swooned.

Which animal grows Cashmere?

Over 14000 feet above sea level in Ladakh, the Changthang region is home to an exotic and rare kind of goats. These are named after the place and are called Changthangi goats. It is these goats that grow a soft fleece as down fibre to survive the harsh temperature of -40 degrees. The fleece is exceptionally warm and is able to protect the goat and keep it alive in winters.

As soon as it is summer, the goat loses this hair naturally, and the rest of the wool is collected by herders. This fine wool is called Pashm. The word Pashm comes from the Persian language and means 'soft gold'. However, in the early 19th century, Cashmere wraps reached their zenith and Europeans discovered it too. It is them who named it Cashmere. Locally it was called Pashm

Features of Cashmere wool

Cashmere is the undercoat of the Ladakhi goat and its diameter is as small as just 12-16 microns. One goat yields just 150 grams of Cashmere. Hence it takes the wool of 3-4 goats to prepare one Cashmere wrap of length 200 cm and breadth 100 cm. For a smaller length scarf, the wool from two adult goats is required.

Cashmere wool is so gauzy and gossamer that sometimes it isn't even visible to the naked eye. It is more than 50 years of experience of its weavers which makes them the perfect community to deal with such delicate threads, without breaking or deteriorating the quality.

Processing of Cashmere Scarf

When Cashmere is combed off the body of Ladakhi goat, it is processed in Kashmir. That is because even though Ladakh is blessed with the existence of Cashmere goats, but the locals do not have the know-how to process the same. This is done in Kashmir.

Firstly, Cashmere is cleaned and sorted by women who make sure there are no foreign materials attached to the wool. After cleaning, a lump of pure Cashmere wool is left. This is handed over to spinners. Womenfolk of Kashmir are masters when it comes to spinning. The lump of wool is converted into the fine yarn over a wooden spinning wheel called 'Yinder'. The yarn is now ready for weaving. A traditional wooden handloom is where the yarn gets woven into luxury wraps and scarves.

Cashmere scarves are expensive. Plain wraps are less expensive than embroidered shawls or the ones with Kani weave where more manual labour is involved. Nowadays Cashmere has been blended into every contemporary pattern and design following the adoration of the young generation. Cashmere can be ombre dyed, printed, patterned, laced, studded, and woven into reversible patterns

Kashmiri Cashmere is better in quality than its counterparts which come from Mongolia, China, Iran. It is finer, warmer, and far better in quality than the other types.

Is Cashmere Vegan?

Veganism is a modern term that refers to the practice of staying away from the use of animal products. This includes consuming their meat, or wool. Such Cashmere is not Vegan, as it comes from a goat.

However, the acquisition of Cashmere does not constitute any animal cruelty and no living being is harmed in the process. Cashmere goats are domestic and do not need to be hunted or killed. And the wool is not shared off their body, it is gently combed off. Also, the wool is combed off in summers, when the wool itself makes the goat uncomfortable.

Hence if you wear Cashmere, you can still be vegan, since the goat is not harmed and grows the fleece naturally next winter

What is a Pure Cashmere Scarf?

When you want to invest in a Cashmere scarf, be sure you are picking a pure Cashmere. This is because if your Cashmere is not pure, it is not worth buying. Either invest in pure Cashmere or nothing at all. Here are some reasons why Cashmere should always be bought pure.

Exceptional warmth

If your Cashmere scarf is pure, rest assured that you are going to get the most pleasant warmth that you would ever have experienced. Now you can get rid of those oversized jackets and fluffy warmers, and just put on a fine Cashmere scarf, enjoying the same warmth, plus the unmatched grace that it bestows over you.

Friend of a lifetime

Pure Cashmere stays for a lifetime. If your Cashmere scarf is pure, it will stay with you for a minimum of 20 years. It is said that the ancient Kashmir, a bride's mother would gift her own Cashmere shawl to her newlywed daughter, and it would look as fresh as new

High-End softness

Skin is one of the most sensitive parts of our body. If a wrap is rough, your skin attests it in a minute. But if you are wearing a pure Cashmere scarf, your skin will enjoy it to the fullest.

Ages with Grace

If taken proper care of, a Cashmere scarf will age in the most graceful fashion. It is believed that after every wash, Cashmere takes a more and more antique look and looks like a lost treasure even after 25 years of proper use.

Also read: How can you tell if a Cashmere Scarf is real?

Cashmere wool, simply known as Cashmere, is a fine wool that is obtained from Cashmere goat/Pashmina goat. It has long been used to prepare luxury apparel, wraps, accessories, and upholstery. The word Cashmere was used for the first time by Europeans in the 19th century, when they visited Kashmir, and pronounced the place "Cashmere" instead. It was the 19th century, and the Europeans had visited the valley in search of the world's finest fibre, which happened to be Cashmere. It is this fiber that is used to make Pashmina shawls - the shawls which were owned by royals and the affluent noblemen in ancient times.

Source of Real Cashmere shawl

As warm as Cashmere is, makes it's apparent to one that its making is painstaking and labour intensive. after all luxury has never been easy. Ladakh region, North India, is the place where the Changthang area is home to exotic Pashmina goats. The goats, in order to survive a temperature of -40 degrees naturally grow a down fibre starting winters. It is this downfibre that helps them survive the harsh winter and keeps them warm and comfortable till the start of summers.

Onset of Summer

As soon as summer arrives, the goats appear more uneasy to the herders, as they keep rubbing their bodies with surrounding areas. A portion of their body wool is found around near shrubs, rocks, and bushes, where they have rubbed themselves to get rid of the fibre over their bodies. When their uneasiness becomes unbearable, herders call professionals, who comb off the rest of the hair from their bodies, making them relaxed. It is this fine, smooth, warm fibre that is called Cashmere. It is still in its raw form and needs processing. Processing helps make it cleaner, and ready to be woven.

Collecting of wool

Cashmere is collected in the spring season when the goats naturally shed it. It can be as early as March and as late as May. The hair is removed not by shearing, but by gentle combing of the hair from the goat's body.

Professionals visit Ladakh and use specialized tools for combing the wool off the goat's body. This hair grows back at the onset of winter. No animal is harmed in the entire process.

Is Cashmere expensive?

Cashmere is expensive as it is rare. It is grown by the Changthangi goat just once a year and has to be processed once a year as well. Also, during the processing, a lot of fibre is lost, reducing the fibre to almost half, and making it even more precious and exceptional.

For this reason, a number of traders and manufacturers prepared fake Cashmere, by either mixing nylon and silk with pure fibre, or softening sheep wool and falsely claiming it to be pure. But since we do not want the patrons of pure Cashmere to be cheated upon, we created a list of several tests that can be conducted on an already purchased piece to check its purity, or kept in mind while buying a new piece.

Real Cashmere will have a number of qualities. Here are some tests to check the purity of a Cashmere wrap or scarf:

Tests to check if Cashmere is real

Cashmere is soft

And this is the most basic property that this luxury fabric has. Cashmere will never be irritating to the skin. It is hypoallergenic and feels heavenly on the most sensitive skin even.

The GI Tag or Certificate

Cashmere will either consist of a GI tag, or its seller will have given you a purity certificate. If both of these haven't taken place during the purchase, then there are chances that your wrap is not pure.

Cashmere will not be too transparent

It might be able to transfer some portion of light due to loosely woven, but if the wrap or scarf is too transparent, chances of it being fake are more.

Uneven Weaving

A genuine Cashmere wrap or scarf will have an uneven weave. This is because it being handmade. If the weave is too regular and straight, it might be made by a machine. Machine-woven wraps are a mix of pure threads as well as a strengthening fibre, as pure fibre cannot bear the strain of machines. Hence handwoven pieces are unevenly made, which adds even more to the antique-looking texture.

Pilling is Natural

Cashmere will pill. And it is a surprise to many. Original Cashmere is a natural fibre. Hence pilling is a natural process if the wrap is real. If however, no pilling happens ever, chances are that this wrap is silk.

Burnt Smell of Hair

Cashmere gives a natural hair-burnt smell if it is burnt. To test this, you can pick a fringe from the wrap and burn it. If it gives a smell like burnt hair smell, then it might be a real Cashmere.

Too much Shine

Cashmere will not be too shiny. Because natural fibre will never give out the artificial shine. If your wrap is too shimmery, there might be silk fibre mixed with it.

If you going to purchase a new wrap or scarf, here are some things you need to look into.

Buying a New Piece?

Check GI tag

To preserve the art of handcrafting pure Cashmere, the Government of India (Under WTO) has established a quality check for authentic Cashmere that will identify products made from the pure fibre of Changthangi goat. A geographical Indication (GI) Label on Cashmere is a US patent stamp on the original fabric. If you are buying a scarf and it contains the GI stamp, it is 100% pure and real.

Certificate of Authenticity

If your seller is able to produce a certificate of authenticity with the scarf that you're buying, the wrap is pure.

Who is the Seller?

Is the seller well-known?

Does he have a large number of long-term customers?

Does he have a positive word of mouth amongst customers?

If all these are positive, the chances of him being an authentic dealer are higher.

Whether you already own a scarf or you are planning to purchase a new one, be careful about who are you buying from. You are buying a valuable treasure. Never compromise on the quality. It is an investment of a lifetime. Pure Cashmere will last for more than 25 years. And you wouldn't like carrying something fake for such a long time, would you?

Cashmere shawls are the world-famous luxury wrap accessories that swept royals off their feet when they first got introduced to the world. Mughals in India, Chieftains in the East India Company, Persian Rulers, European kings, emperors, and empresses all were fascinated by the sheer charm that Cashmere shawls would exude.

Apart from being utmost fine and elegant, Cashmere shawls were the coziest wraps that the world had seen to date. Demand for Cashmere shawls exceeded its supply which gave Kashmir a superior name and fame back in the 16th century. They were traded all over the world with maximum customers being the rich and influential of Europe, North America, Australia, and Asia.

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is one of the finest goat wool. The wool is a down fibre of an exotic goat found in Ladakh which survives a temperature of -40 degrees because of the warmth of raw Cashmere. As summers arrive, the wool is combed off its body by professionals and processed manually by Kashmiri artisans. It is cleaned, spun, woven, and embroidered and what comes out are exquisite Cashmere shawls, ready to fascinate the world by their allure and royal demeanor.

Where is Cashmere shawl made?

Capra Hircus - or the Pashmina goat belongs to a region called Changthang. The region lies over 14000 feet above sea level and is home to a nomadic tribe. This tribe is called Changpa. It is the Changpa tribe that is responsible for rearing the Pashmina goat. The tribe lives with its goats in a tent that is barely lit and minimally warm. In the morning the goats are sent outside the tent to graze but return back as cold intensifies. The region experience a tough winter and temperatures fall below-40 degrees.

To survive these harsh conditions, the Pashmina goat grows a special kind of wool as an undercoat. This undercoat is soft, warm and fine, and saves the Pashmina goat from the harsh and freezing temperature around it. But as soon as summer arrives, the goat becomes hot and uneasy as it feels an uncomfortable warmth. It rubs its body against rough bushes and stones and gets rid of some of the wool. The rest of it is removed by professionals who comb the body of the goat gently and make it easy for it to move around in hot climatic conditions. Note that this wool grows back fully as soon as it's winter. This raw wool is Cashmere. It is manually processed and transformed into luxury shawls, over which the entire world swoons.

It takes three goats to make one cashmere shawl of length 200 cm and breadth 100 cm. A Pashmina goat grows around 150 grams of wool per year, and a Cashmere shawl weighs around 450-500 grams. The wool is so fine that its diameter is just 12-16 microns. Note that human hair is around 50-70 microns thick.

Ethical Processing of Cashmere shawls

The process of dehairing a goat is not cruel at all. A team of professionals dehair the goats one by one using specialized combs and shearing tools. The goats do not get hurt at all. The hair is very gently combed off the goat's body, collected, and handed over to Kashmiri artisans for further processing. The entire process is ethical and no living being is hurt.

Processing in Kashmir

As soon as the wool reaches Kashmir, it is received by women who begin cleaning it for several; days. Dirt, dust, thorns, vegetable wastes and so many other impurities have to be removed to make it pure. The pure lump of wool is now sent for spinning. Womenfolk of Kashmir from different corners of the valley, take some quantity of wool and spin it at their respective homes over a wooden spinning wheel called Yinder. Yinder makes fine yarn out of the lump of wool. The fine yarn has a diameter of 12-16 microns. It is soft, delicate, and exceptionally warm.

This yarn is now handed over to weavers who mount it over a manual handloom. It is the wooden classic handloom that weavers have been using for centuries. Weavers weave the fine yarn into luxury Cashmere shawls, stoles, scarves, and many other accessories. Hence Cashmere shawls are made in Kashmir, but the raw material (Pashm) is acquired from Ladakh.

India and Cashmere shawls

The possession of goats has been the heritage of India. Especially the goats in the Himalayan region which produce cashmere. Cashmere is the fine, warm, and soft undercoat of the goat which keeps it warm in winter. India produces the best quality Cashmere in the world. Two Pashmina goat breeds - Changthangi and Chegu - are found in India, but Changthangi goats yield the best quality Cashmere. It is this Cashmere that is famous all over the world and whose processing takes place manually in Kashmir

An ancient art patron hears about the Pashmina scarf and starts researching about the same. What he finds is Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, embroidery patterns, unprecedented warmth they give, and the best qualities that any winter wrap can have. But after some search, the patron finds that there is the term Cashmere, which is used interchangeably with Pashmina. He searches about Cashmere, finds the term defined in the same way Pashmina was. Is Pashmina Cashmere? Is Pashmina the same as Cashmere? What is the difference between the two, if they aren't the same.

People around the world have often been confused with two specific terms - Cashmere and Pashmina. Some use them interchangeably, while others differentiate them according to what information they have. Being one of the most ardent patrons of Pashmina, and the keepers of it, we too feel the responsibility to differentiate between the two terms. It should be clear in the minds of the general audience before they go out to purchase Cashmere or Pashmina. Let is start with defining Cashmere

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the wool that grows on the body of an exotic species of Ladakhi goats. These goats are found in the Changthang area of Ladakh and are hence called Changthangi goats. Cashmere grows as their down fibre and protects from the harsh climate they live in. The region experiences a temperature of -40 degrees C in winter, which would have made life difficult for the goats if it wasn't for Cashmere wool. The wool protects their bodies, and it becomes easy for them to roam around the region, even in such biting cold.

Being so warm, the wool makes the goat uneasy, as winter departs and spring starts. And when finally summer starts, the goat rubs itself all over the region against rough surfaces. As such bushes, rocks, uneven walls, all are found to contain some portion of their wool. This is the wool they leave when rubbing their bodies against them. This wool is collected by herders of the goats besides informing professionals to remove the portion of the same from their bodies. Professionals bring along specialized combs. Then they gently remove the comb off the remaining portion of raw Cashmere, before sending it to Kashmir for processing.

As soon as raw wool reaches Kashmir, it is spun over a spinning wheel. This transforms this cotton ball-like raw wool into fine threads. The threads are as fine as 12 microns, and sometimes not even visible at the first glance. These fine threads are later handwoven over a wooden handloom. By the end of this stage, a shawl or scarf is ready.

What is Pashmina?

The processing of Cashmere is quite arduous. Acquiring raw material from such a region that lies 40000 feet above sea level is a task in itself. Then taking it to Kashmir, meeting womenfolk, who spin Yinder (the wooden charkha which women use to spin Cashmere) and wait for them to finish it (which is a matter of months sometimes), is a task. Then taking the threads to weavers, who weave the spun threads over handloom are the next steps, which are as persevering as the previous ones.

Next, if the wrap is to be embroidered, it has to be handed over to embroidery artisans. It again takes years to complete. Hence Cashmere processing is a journey itself, and not just a matter of some days or weeks. It is an art, which always deserved to be recognized with a name. And that is what happened. Pashmina was the name given to the process of handcrafting luxury pieces from the downy undercoat of the Himalayan goat (Cashmere). And that is where the confusion ends. 

History of Pashmina Art

The art of Pashmina started in the 15th century. A traveler named Shah I Hamdan traveled to Kashmir from Persia. It was he, who discovered this fine fibre in Ladakh and ordered socks to be made for the then king Zain Ul Abideen. The king was highly impressed with the warmth and finesse of this newly found fibre. Thereafter Pashmina processing units were started. In these units, raw Cashmere wool was processed and transformed into luxury wraps, apparel, scarves, and more. 

When Pashmina scarves gained recognition and spread to Europe, Europeans travelled to Kashmir to have a look at them. They could not pronounce Kashmir as locals do, and instead pronounced it “Cashmere”, and named the wraps the same as well. Hence Cashmere is the name given by Europeans, while Pashmina is the art of processing them, and it is just a local term. Cashmere on the other hand is renowned worldwide.

Is Pashmina more expensive than Cashmere?

While Pashmina only refers to the journey that transforms raw Cashmere to Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, hijabs, and wraps, Cashmere is the wool that transforms wool to sweaters, handkerchiefs, dresses, and many other apparel and accessories. When referring to Pashmina, we talk about just shawls, scarves which are spun, woven, and then embroidered by Kashmiri artisans. But Cashmere is the wool that can be used to craft anything - even socks.

Price of Pashmina and Cashmere

Pashmina is expensive. A Pashmina scarf, on average can be worth US$120 - 300 (dimension is 200 cm x 35cm). It also depends on purity. This is the price of a 100% pure Pashmina scarf, not a fake one that includes threads of silk/nylon. Nevertheless, plain scarves will range from $120 to $150. If the scarf is patterned, printed or lace, it will rise in price. Embroidered scarves might even be priced at $300. Fully embroidered Pashmina shawls or Kani shawls can go thousands of dollars when handmade for 5-6 years together. It is the deft craftsmanship and proficient skill of local artisans which is rewarded when we pay for a Pashmina scarf. 

Cashmere on the other may not be as pricey as Pashmina is. When compared to a cashmere sweater, an embroidered Pashmina shawl can sometimes be four times the price of a sweater. Pashmina art takes more skill, labour and time to complete, whereas Cashmere apparel and accessories might not need that much.

Purity of Pashmina - Relation with Cashmere.

The art of Pashmina depends on the purity of Cashmere wool. If the wool acquired from Ladakh is pure, then only Pashmina making will be art. Otherwise, if Cashmere is mixed with silk or nylon, and simultaneously woven in machines called power looms, then Pashmina shawl will not be the result of an artful journey. It will just be a wrap, as any sheep wool product is. For Pashmina to be called an artistic journey, its raw material Cashmere wool has to be pure, authentic, and processed manually, without the use of machines or wastage. 

The art of Pashmina is sustainable. It is manual, includes zero wastage, helps in empowering underprivileged artisans and Pashmina scarves remain with you for a lifetime. These are made from natural fibre - Cashmere, which is ethically acquired from Ladakh. And hence buying Pure Cashmere or Pashmina scarf both cases are responsible for shopping.

Pashmina is rare and a labor-intensive art that transforms raw Cashmere wool into luxury wrap accessories. It is better in quality in comparison to most of its counterparts and hence a bit on the expensive side of the price scale. Hence, special care needs to be taken about its washing, drying, use of detergents, and other aspects of how to care about a Pashmina. Here we list a number of questions, which are often asked about Pashmina care, and our team of specialists answers them one by one.

Q: Is Pashmina washable?

A: Yes, Pashmina is washable. The preferred method for washing a Pashmina is dry cleaning. However, one can even wash it at home, after following a set of guidelines.

• Pashmina should be hand washed in cold water.
• A wool/Cashmere shampoo or a mild detergent such as baby cloth detergent or a baby shampoo has to be used
• The detergent should be fully dissolved in the water beforehand
• Pashmina should be dipped in this water and rubbed gently with hands
• You can machine wash your Pashmina, with the hand wash setting on.

Q: Can my Pashmina scarf be dry - cleaned?

A: Yes, you can dry clean your Pashmina. In fact, it is dry cleaning which is the preferred method of washing Pashmina and general Pashmina care. If at all an emergency arises, you can hand wash your Pashmina. But you will have to be super careful and follow certain rules while you do that

Q: What type of soap or detergent should I use for washing a Pashmina scarf at home?

A: Even though dry cleaning is the preferred method of cleaning a Pashmina at home. But need arises, you can wash a Pashmina at home too, following these simple steps:

• Always hand wash your Pashmina in cold water.
• Use a wool specific shampoo, or a mild detergent such as baby cloth detergent or a baby shampoo.
• Dissolve the detergent fully in the water
• Dip your Pashmina into the solution and wash it gently and carefully
• You can machine wash your Pashmina, but make sure the machine is on hand wash setting

Q: We have hard water in our area. How can I soften the water for washing a Pashmina scarf?

A: Hard water has been an immensely troubling laundry for a long time now. The laundry done in hard water is often seen developing stains and becoming less durable. To understand the ways to tackle it, let's first understand what hard water is.

Hard water is the natural water that contains a high mineral content, including minerals like magnesium & calcium. And since water can dissolve these materials, it comes directly in contact with the laundry. Soft water, on the other hand, contains just the traces of these minerals and hence it doesn't cause trouble with contact.

If you happen to live in an area where water is hard, your laundry might face the following problems.

• White fabrics change colour to pale or grey
• Fabrics become hard and rough and there seems a build up on their surface
• White or pale grey lines appear on dark coloured garments
• Hard water weakens fibers and they can be easily torn

If you happen to live in an area where soft water is not available then there is a problem with washing your Pashmina. Since Cashmere is wool, it can get really messy while washing it. '

However, there are options to wash Pashmina safely even if the water is hard. The first option is to send your Pashmina for dry clean and ask them not to use hard water with it. Dry cleaners have specialized detergents that can be used to soften fabrics. This way you can save your Pashmina from being ruined.

However, if you can't find dry cleaners around, you can purchase a water softener. It comes as detergent, or in the form of tablets. These solvents can soften hard water and you can wash your Pashmina easily at home.

Q: Should I use a fabric conditioner on Pashmina?

A: You should avoid using fabric conditioners on Pashmina. Fabrics conditioners are filled with chemicals that can cause more harm to your Pashmina than doing good. If however you are left with no choice, but to wash it in the same, then use a less quantity of the fabric conditions and rinse your Pashmina thoroughly (yet gently)

Q: How should I store my pashmina scarf when I am not wearing it?

A: Firstly, clean the shelf or generally the place where you store your Pashmina. It must be thoroughly cleaned and made damp-free. After the cleaning is done, you have to guard it against moths, since it can be easy for them to attack your luxurious Pashmina. You can lay down some anti-moth paper on the storage shelf and use naphthalene balls to keep avoid pests attacking your scarf. Replace them if they get old, as naphthalene balls tend to dissolve with time.

Do not store Pashmina in plastic bags for more than a few months. It can alter the colour of your Pashmina. Instead, try and wrap your luxury Pashmina in an acid-free tissue paper to preserve its original form and make sure it has greater protection against dust and moisture

Q: Can I use bleach while washing my Pashmina at home?

A: No. You cannot bleach Pashmina as it can badly affect the softness. Always use Cashmere shampoos or washing Pashmina, or even better, hand over your precious piece to dry cleaners.

Cashmere scarves are the exceptionally warm, soft, and timelessly elegant winter wraps that are handcrafted to keep one warm and stylish in colder seasons. These scarves are made from a natural fibre, which is acquired from the undercoat of Ladakhi goat. Cashmere has some features which are rare to find and which makes it revered all over the world.

Here are some amazing qualities of a Cashmere scarf, for which it is cherished by every admirer of traditional art.

The Source - Where do Cashmere goats live

Cashmere scarves are made from Cashmere wool, which the Ladakhi goat grows to withstand a temperature of- 40 degrees. It is the exceptional warmth of this fibre that makes this possible. In addition to being warm in winters, it is believed that Cashmere keeps one cool in summer and spring because of its insulating properties. 

Cashmere goats are found in China, Mongolia, Myanmar, Bhutan, Nepal and Ladakh. Ladakhi Changthangi goat produces the best quality and the finest Cashmere all over the world. In fact the world famous Pashmina shawls are made from Ladakhi Cashmere.

Cashmere scarves are Handmade

Cashmere scarves are totally handmade. The raw wool is spun on a wooden charkha or spinning wheel, which converts wool to long yarns. These yarns are then handwoven to the fabric. There is no intervention of machines and it is hard to believe that such a luxurious and intricate piece can be crafted with bare hands.

Finesse of these luxury scarves

Cashmere yarn is extremely fine. The diameter of a Cashmere yarn is 12-16 microns only. This quality makes Cashmere 8 times warmer than sheep’s wool. 

It is a Family Affair

As many as 50 families and a few hundred individuals are associated with just one Pashmina scarf, which makes it more valued. In the past, one family used to accept one contract of shawl making, and the entire family would be associated with it. While womenfolk of the family would clean, sort, and spin the raw lump of Cashmere wool, men would weave, embroider, wash, iron it, thereby making it a product of this particular family.

Time and Labour

If a Cashmere scarf is embroidered, then it might take a few years to complete one piece. Such is the finesse and meticulousness of a Pashmina artisan. It is said that a total of 4-5 years are required to complete a fully embroidered shawl, and if an artisan working on a scarf passes away, it is not always possible to complete it

Rare Source

It takes the fibre from 2 goats to complete one Cashmere scarf. And since the goat is difficult to find and is extremely rare, the value of a scarf might seem exorbitant. 

Worth of Cashmere Scarves

The worth of Cashmere depends upon a number of factors. Some of them are:

Ply

Ply indicates the density of fibre used. Single-ply Cashmere would mean that basic thread is used in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply would indicate that fibre is double twisted. Two-ply is more pricey

Count

Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that can be spun per gram. The more yarn count, the thinner, the smoother, and more precious is the scarf.

Thickness of the fibre

How thick the fibre also determines the price of Cashmere scarves and wraps. The finer the fibre used, the more pricey the wrap becomes.

Weave Pattern

Weave patterns also determine the price of Pashmina scarves. The diamond weave is the most expensive type of weave in Cashmere. These are followed by twill weave and basket weave. Jacquard weave is also one major type that is usually worn at weddings or special occasions.

Prices of Cashmere scarves

A Cashmere scarf, on average, will be worth US$120 - 300 (dimension is 200 cm x 35 cm). It also depends on purity. This was the price of a 100% pure scarf and not an amalgam of silk or nylon. Unfortunately, many deceptive sellers have hiked prices but sell fake scarves. It is important to ask the seller for a certificate of authenticity. If he is not able to produce one, then he might be a fraud. Nevertheless, plain scarves will range from $120 to $150. If the scarf is patterned, printed, or laced, it will rise in price. Embroidered scarves might even be priced at $300.

Are Cashmere scarves worth it?

The regal status that Cashmere enjoys is always questioned by some curious consumers. Is Cashmere really worth all the prices and popularity that it enjoys all over the world? Well, we would say, it is worth even more!

The labour-intensive process that carries raw lumps from Ladakh to Kashmir is all manual and painstaking. The cleaning of raw wool is meticulous and a matter of utmost skill. Later spinning is done which is altogether a different story. The movement of hands of the woman who is spinning the yarn is a skill learnt from decades.

Weaving is again special to Kashmiri artisans who weave scarves and wraps on a traditional handloom, and not a power loom. The handloom is made of wood and takes a lot of manual effort to work and weave fabric. Hence Cashmere is worth every penny you spend on it. It is worth the time you spend to choose it, it is worth the effort you put to buy it, it is worth the fame it enjoys and the royal status which it acquired centuries ago when it was conceived, till now.

If pure, Cashmere feels smooth, warm, and is feathery light. Cashmere is a natural fibre and hence its feel is the same too. 

Cashmere is a natural fibre. It has insulating properties, due to which it is believed to keep a person warm in cold seasons and pleasant in warm temperatures. It has enjoyed a world-class reputation since its conception, and even now it is cherished by celebrities alike. But what is cherished is pure Cashmere, which is certified by the associated government. 

When the fibre got popular and royalties and the affluent began to purchase the same, some traders’ greed got the better of them, and they introduced mechanization in this handcraft. And hence Cashmere became a part of the fast fashion trend whereas it was designed to be a patron of slow fashion. Machines produced large quantities, but the worst qualities of Cashmere and hence brought a bad name to the entire trade. Also, it was a blow to the artisans whose families depended only on their skills.

How do we know our Cashmere is pure?

To know how it feels, it is important to differentiate between pure and fake Cashmere. Here is a guide to know so.

Pure Cashmere is soft 

The most basic method to identify the purity of your precious wrap is softness. So, in case your wrap doesn’t feel scratchy once you wrap it, your hands might have picked a fake one! Cashmere is a hypoallergenic fibre, which does not cause any allergic reaction. It is generally smooth and soft, as it is made in the finest of fibres. 

Pure Cashmere won’t be see-through

The best way to check for this is by holding your wrap against a light source. If you can clearly see through, chances are that the piece is fake. Pashmina is a natural insulating fibre. Even if the ply is less, the wrap is still thick, even if lightweight

Pure Cashmere has an uneven weave

If the wrap you own has a regular weave with straight lines on it, you might have been cheated by your seller. A natural fibre that has been handcrafted by human hands won't have regular weaves. It will have the human deficiency of an irregular weave. So if you were feeling bad about the weaves which would seem consistent, be happy now. You Cashmere is genuine

Pure Cashmere won't generate sparks

When rubbed, a fake piece generates static electricity because of the mixtures of synthetic fibres in it. Pure Cashmere is a natural fibre, and hence does not generate small sparks when rubbed against the body or its own surface. 

Pure Cashmere will Pill!

Surprisingly, pure Cashmere will pill. And if it doesn't pill, it is fake. Natural fibres tend to pile a little, which has its own remedies to get rid of. But it's only artificial Cashmere that won't pill and stay smooth as silk. 

Pure Cashmere will give out a burnt smell

This test is a bit crucial. Take out a fringe from your wrap and burn it. If the fringe gives out a burnt smell, then the piece is pure. This is again because Cashmere is a natural fibre and will give out a burnt hair smell. Also, there will be some powdery residue behind

If all the tests above prove that your Cashmere is pure, then it will feel soft, fine, airy light, and exceptionally warm. However, you need to identify fake pieces as well. Here’s how!

Identification of a fake piece

The ring test hoax

The most deceptive test of all is the ring test. Firstly it wasn't Cashmere that could pass through a ring. It was Shatoosh (which is banned now) which was called the ring shawl. But nowadays it is even easy to pass a common sheep wool shawl through a ring, by treating it with chemicals and smootheners. Hence, if your Cashmere wrap is passing through a ring, relax, it may still be fake. 

Too much shine

If you have been flaunting the shine of your wrap to everyone, stop. Too much shine, which seems artificial, indicates the presence of artificial fibre, maybe silk or nylon in your wrap. 

Regular weave 

As discussed earlier in this blog, if your wrap has a straight weave, chances are that it has been woven by a machine. Pure Cashmere will have uneven weaves, which prove the fact that it has been crafted by human hands.

Cashmere is 8 times warmer than regular sheep wool. This will be the greatest test of all. Moreover, it will be a bit high in price. Fake copies are usually cheap, and that is what lures customers toward them. Buying an impure piece wastes your efforts and your basic reason to buy a Cashmere. It has to be pure. Don't compromise on those qualities for which Cashmere is considered one of the most sought after luxuries. 

A Cashmere scarf can be a life savior in the winter season. With such ho-hum about this fine and luxury winter accessory, we decided to double-check if investing in it is a good idea. And we came up with these 7 brilliant reasons to own Cashmere instantly.

Winter is inching closer and closer every passing day and so is the chill which accompanies it. Commonly, one gets to see two different types of people during the colder months. Ones who constantly crib about the gloomy skies and the others who are enthusiastic about it. Being optimists at heart, we will only talk about the latter-the winter enthusiasts. They are the ones who will leave no stone unturned to make the most of it. They make sure to indulge in skiing, ice skating, snow fights, and whatnot.

However, winter doesn’t come with fun activities and Santa Claus alone. Take a moment to reflect over the winter days-physical discomfort, despondent skies, and a slowed-down lifestyle. All you want to do is to cozy under a blanket and prevent yourself from falling sick. Under the garb of “not falling sick”, many people add layer upon layer of clothing. It often makes them feel heavy and even unable to move. Not only this, they are not able to move freely and hence end up depriving themselves of all the fun. Here is when even the winter lovers, who were pretty excited about winter, have second thoughts if they want to stay to move to a warmer place.

We have a solution!

At Pashmina.com, we observed Fall Winter fashion trends for over a decade. We came to a startling realization-that there has been a revolution in how people perceive winter fashion. Earlier, they would opt for dark and dull colors, which would complement the grey skies. They would wear at least 3 layers of clothing to keep themselves warm & lie snugly under warm blankets in their free time. Today, the lifestyle has changed. Eyes sparkle up at the mere mention of winter because there is so much to do! This change of attitude reflects how people dress up. People no longer prefer to clad themselves in bulky sweaters and dark colors. Rather, they associate winters with a life that will rejuvenate them and clothing which provides subtle warmth.

This realization led us straight into the breathtaking valley of Kashmir, nestled in the lap of the Himalayas. Here skilled artisans meticulously spin and weave the need of modern-day lifestyle - Cashmere scarves. The plush and soft fabric bears testimony to the fact that you can feel comfortable and look stylish during the winter months. The 100% natural fabric has been cherished by the elite since centuries. Yet it relates to the needs of the modern generation. It’s matte, yet subtle look silently whispers that you can look equally attractive in your winter clothes. It’s sophisticated folds elevate your appearance to the point of luxury. Perhaps this is the reason why more and more people are opting for a Cashmere scarf every day. Hence today, we debunk all myths and facts surrounding Cashmere, and make it clear for its admirers as to what they are buying.

What is Cashmere ?

Ever since we have tapped into its origins, we have been flooded with interesting queries about Cashmere.

What is the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina?

What is it made up of?

Why is it expensive?

How can we tell the difference between an original and fake Cashmere scarf?

We could go on and on, and the list would still be endless.

To begin with, Cashmere is the raw wool, the undercoat of a Pashmina goat that is found in Ladakh. Even though it is found in China, Mongolia, Tibet, Nepal, and other regions in the world, but Ladakhi Cashmere is the best and finest of them all. The Changthangi goat in Ladakh survives a temperature of -40 degrees just because it is covered in this warm fleece. Cashmere keeps the goat warm and comfortable in winters and is the only protection that the goat has in a freezing temperature.

As soon as Winter bids goodbye and Spring arrives, this wool becomes a burden for the goat. To get rid of its warmth, it rubs itself with rough surfaces. Fine hair can be seen around bushes, rough stones, coarse bushes, and in their own shed walls. Herders realize that it's time, and call for professional help. Professionals arrive with specialized tools and combs and start combing the goat's body gently, stroke by stroke. Firstly large portions are covered and then the smaller ones. Finally, the goat is freed from the burden and it starts moving around freely.

It must be noted that one goat produces 70-400 grams of Cashmere, depending upon the size. Hence, to make one Pashmina shawl, wool from 3 to 4 goats is required.

What is Pashmina

Pashmina on the other hand is an art - the art of handcrafting luxury shawls, scarves, stoles and accessories from this fine Cashmere wool. The fabric was discovered in the 14th century by a Sufi mystic, who envisioned the world wearing it. He got his artisans working on the first set of Cashmere socks ever and voila, Cashmere has remained the most sought-after fabric in the whole wide world.

The fact that over 33 artisans work from dawn to dusk to create a simple Cashmere scarf over a span of 2 to 6 months is enough to justify its value. In fact, if you find a really cheap variant claiming to be a 100% pure Cashmere scarf, you’ll need to stay miles away from it because Cashmere cannot be sold cheap owing to its rarity, less production, and the long stretches of unmatched craftsmanship that go into its making. Earlier, finding a real piece of Cashmere scarf would be no less than climbing a snow-laden mountain. Today, the luxury fabric is a click away.

Why is Cashmere special ~ Why choose Cashmere?

The question still remains, why should someone opt for an original Cashmere scarf when they can find cheaper alternatives in the market. What benefit would it bring to invest in this luxury fabric when you can easily do with low prices winter accents easily available in the market. It is a piece of warm wrap deserving of paying a hefty price in its exchange. Do we really need a Cashmere scarf.

We, at Pashmina.com, are giving you some solid reasons to choose a Cashmere scarf to combat the cold weather!

Here are 7 great reasons to choose Cashmere. Let’s get started!

Cashmere is an all natural fabric

Like comfortable cottons and lustrous silks, Cashmere is an all-natural fabric. It is essentially made from animal hair-that of Changthangi goat. What is special about this hair is that it is the finest in the world. Studies reveal that the fibre shed by this goat is 6 times thinner than a strand of human hair. Besides, the processing of the original Cashmere does not know any machine intervention. It is gathered and cleaned by the locals, traded by nomads, spun over a wooden spindle by underprivileged women, and finally handwoven by a weaver over a traditional handloom.

Not a single thread of synthetic fibre or pollutant is used in the making of 100% pure Cashmere. The process has been preserved for over seven centuries like a holy grail. Even the process of dyeing Cashmere uses only natural or azo-free dyes. The process causes no harm-neither to the environment nor to your skin. So while you have the option to choose the cheaper variations available in the markets, a natural cashmere, free from the harshness of chemicals would be ideal and unique.

The handwoven luxuries are the synonym of comfort!

These scarves keep you warm (without sweating)

Cashmere is known to be the warmest of all fabrics the world has ever known. This warmth traces its origin to the Changthangi goat who grows this ultra-warm fleece to protect itself from the harsh temperatures of the Ladakh region in India. Come summer and the goat sheds its mane by rubbing itself against shrubs, rocks, or whatever rough surface it can find lurking within the remote area of Changthang.

This wool is then harvested by the locals and spun and woven into the finest shawls, wraps, and clothing mankind has ever known. And this leads us to important conclusion-that Cashmere scarves have warming properties ingrained into their essence right from the beginning. In addition to this, Cashmere has natural air pockets that provide outstanding insulation. This extra warmth coupled with the fact that Cashmere is the finest fabric in the world makes it ideal to wear on a cold winter day.

It helps you stay warm and cozy even when the temperatures drop down to zero or less. You could achieve this by wearing acrylic or polyester clothing, but they would make you sweat profusely (owing to their synthetic nature).

Cashmere is quite contrary to this. Because it is handwoven and made out of purely natural fibre, it is extremely breathable in nature. When you opt for Cashmere clothing, you are opting for winter free from the common cold, sore throats and so much more. And that is a big deal!

Cashmere Scarves come in a wide range of colors and styles

In the good old days, Cashmere would be seen in three primary natural colors-beige, brown, and white. As the years progressed, dyers began using 5 natural substances to cast roughly 64 shades. Today, Cashmere is seen in a myriad of color families-pastel, dark, bright, and metallic. This means that cashmere is no longer confined to its natural shades and you can wear it through any occasion or time of day! Also, each shade is obtained using azo-free dyes to ensure that the wearer is not allergic to it. The presence of brighter shaded Cashmere scarves has given a whole new dimension to the gloomy winters. The skies may be sad, but your bright and beautiful persona ain’t!

Not only this, Cashmere was initially perceived as shawls laden with extra embroideries. Today, there is a Cashmere to suit every personality-minimal, formal, sophisticated, or bold. There are striped and plaid Cashmere for the city girls and then there are heavy hand embroidered Jamawars for those who like to stay rooted in traditions. No matter what your mood or personality type, there is a Pashmina tailor-made to your taste. All you need to do is look for it.

That ultra-soft feel of Cashmere scarves is to die for

Nothing matches the softness of an original handwoven Cashmere. There are many warm and soft materials that provide you warmth during the winters but none of them comes an inch closer to the feel of a Pashmina. If you’ve ever passed your fingers through the fold of one, you’ll know the difference. If you haven’t, well, it feels softer than a feather against your skin, it even feels softer than a newly made ball of cotton. Once you experience this feathery touch, you will not be able to settle for anything less. It is because of this soft touch, coupled with its feathery light essence, which makes Cashmere loved by the elite across the globe.

These do cause any allergies

Many of us have experienced allergies due to harsh chemicals, synthetic fibres, and whatnot. Moreover, you’ll agree that these allergies often come uninvited at any time of the year (even in winter). If you are among the experienced lot, you’ll understand how difficult it is to fight one (especially during the discomfort of winter). Now here’s the good part-Cashmere scarves cause no allergies. This is backed up by the fact that there is neither the use of synthetic fibres in the making of original Cashmere nor any chemicals. In addition to this, its molecular structure doesn’t allow particles and residue to breed.

Natural fibre in its pristine and unadulterated form will never cause you an allergy. If you are wearing cashmere clothes, you will significantly reduce your chances of being struck by an allergy. Moreover, cashmere scarves will never cause you any redness or skin irritations. Take it as a word from a Pashmina expert!

Your scarf is going to last a lifetime

Well Well, What is the average life of your favourite piece of clothing or accessory (other than Cashmere) - one year, or two? Even if you took care of it like it is your own baby, it is going to last for a maximum of 10 years. Agree? On the contrary, Cashmere lasts for almost a century if you take good care of it. Back in the place where it is made, a Pashmina shawl is passed on from mother to daughter for generations altogether. So if you are stuck in a dilemma of making the heavy investment, know that it is going to be your closest confidante for life. Of course, the long life depends upon how well you take care of it!

You’ll be the head-turner wherever you go!

As goes the adage, “luxury speaks for itself!” You won’t have to speak about your heavy investment piece when you choose an original Cashmere scarf. It will make a statement of its own. It will speak volumes about your sophistication and class like it has for the royals.

It is hot summers when Cashmere is gently combed off the body of a Cashmere goat. The process is carried out by professionals in an ethical way. No animals die in the process of obtaining Cashmere.

People who love to dress up in oversized cardigans and wraps have recently dropped the idea to shop for new ones of the same type. The reason being the new buzzwords of sustainability and ethical shopping catching their eye and making them guilty about being a part of animal cruelty. The same is the case with Cashmere. A back fence talking about Cashmere acquisition being cruel to animals has recently gained weight. Hence customers are totally avoiding Cashmere purchases. There have been seemingly painful pictures circulating, where goats are held by herders in inhuman ways and are shearing or picking hair from their body, leaving them bare-bodied in cold winter.

How much weight does this fact contain? Do goats die for Cashmere? Is it true that Cashmere counts for animal cruelty? Or is this a hoax? A detailed look into the matter gave us some insights into it; we realized that there is no truth to it.

What is Cashmere?

Far away, in the lands where no one seems to have travelled, a place called Changthang is located over 14000 feet. The place remains unaffected from whatever happens in the city, and follow their own religion, culture and lifestyle.

The main activity of the Bedouin herders is rearing animal and surviving in difficult conditions that nature has tested them with. It is just goat and sheep products that they are dependent on. They would have to walk miles together to get to the nearest shop, for a basic purchase. As such, Cashmere trading remains their only source of income

Cashmere is the fine unspun wool that is found on the body of the Himalayan goat. The goat is called Changthangi goat, as it is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. As a way out to survive in winters, nature has blessed this goat with a fine and smooth down hair, which protects it from -40 degrees. This wool is the reason that the goat is able to survive such harsh conditions. Cashmere grows as an undercoat on the underbelly, back, neck and behind the ears of the goat. It is only when spring and summer arrive, that the wool makes this goat uneasy and uncomfortable. It rubs itself against the surrounding areas like rough walls, shrubs, and the floor to leave a part of the wool around.

Seeing the goats in agony, herders call for professional help, who bring along specialized tools as well as their know-how, and gently comb off the wool from the goat’s body. The goat is left free to roam around the region and herders are left with a lump of delicate wool, which needs processing to become valuable. 

The Changthangi Goat

Changthangi goat/Pashmina goat or the Cashmere goat is a mammal which produces fine as well as coarse hair called guard hair. These goats are of medium stature, and do not grow beyond 80 cm in height. Males weigh around 45-47 kg while females weigh around 35 kg. Pashmina goats have large wide horns, a blocky buildup and beautiful features which attract even casual passers by. The most dominant colour among Pashmina goats is white, but black, brown, cream, grey coloured goats are also found, however in lesser numbers. 

Pashmina goats are alert and active, and not lazy and docile. Perhaps for this reason, nature has chosen it to survive one of the harshest climates in the world. Pashmina goats sustain themselves in -40 degrees, as well as manage to grow the world finest fleece over their bodies, which becomes the source of Pashmina shawls. Changthangi goats give just one birth a year. Making Cashmere rarer and more exclusive.

One Pashmina goat yields 60 to 500 grams, spending on their size or general productivity. The wool is obtained once a year in the spring season. Being so rare and unique leads to its high pricing in the market. Wool from the goat is collected by hand as much as possible. The rest of the wool still attached to the goat’s body is acquired by combing it off with specialized combs and tools. This process is ethically carried out by professionals, who wait patiently for the Cashmere wool to loosen naturally, so that the goat doesn't feel pained. The right time for combing is indicated by the goats themselves rubbing their bodies against harsh and coarse surfaces. 

The Armed Professionals

Professionals use safe and sterilized combs and other sorts of equipment to free the goats off the wool. They usually carry paper sacks to store the wool, natural bristle brushes, pin brushes, and metal tooth combs. Combing is done by removing any dirt or foreign material from the goat’s body with a larger bristles brush.

Following the removal of guard hair, thin pinned brush is used to remove the actual Cashmere wool off its ribs, backbone and areas where the fibre is longer. Afterwards shorter hair is removed from the neck, behind the ears and other areas where less hair is expected to grow. Combing the entire body of a Pashmina goat takes a minimum of 30 minutes. The time varies with the skill and experience of the professional as well as the size of the goats. Sometimes external conditions like bad weather can also affect the overall duration of the combing process. Nevertheless, the goat is now free of this burden and roams around freely

Guard Hair vs Fine Hair

Fine Cashmere is pure and it is used to make Pashmina shawls. It is free from foreign material like dust, dirt, animal residues and vegetable wastes. It is this fine Cashmere that is transported to Kashmir to get it processed.

When Pure Cashmere is acquired, it is merged with coarse and rough guard hair. Guard hair is thicker, and is used to make products like brushes, interlinings and apparel.

Sorting fine wool:

As soon as the fine Cashmere reaches a sorting stage, it is thoroughly checked for any presence of guard hair, or dirt which is left during the combing process. Finer Cashmere too gets separated from the fibres that aren't as fine smooth. This is done to make sure that the final Pashmina shawl, stole, scarf or wrap is in the purest form.

Processing Cashmere

The lump of wool is sent to Kashmir where it is, on its arrival, cleaned thoroughly and sorted. A clean lump of wool is handed over to womenfolk coming from different underprivileged areas. They clean the wool, and place it in a container, and over this powdered rice is scattered. This mixture stands for a few days. It makes the fibre stronger and smoother. After 3-4 days, the fibre is removed from this container and cleaned again to get rid of any rice residue left.

Clean fibre is handed over to women, who group together and start spinning Cashmere into fine threads. This is a laborious process and takes high skill and patience to do. A perfect rhythm and balance between the hands of the spinner and the movement of the spinning wheel is a must. Or else the fine fibre would easily break and lose its value. Spun threads are of a diameter of 12-16 microns, thus being one of the finest and luxurious ones. Perfection is achieved, as Kashmiri women have mastered the skill, and are able to spin fine hair with ease and perfection.

Hand Weaving - a one of a kind skill

The threads are now ready to be handwoven, as such fine threads can't tolerate machine strain. Hence they are handed over to men weavers who have a specialization of decades to hand weave the finest fibre in the world. Men weavers mount the fibre onto a traditional wooden hand loom and start weaving it in classic techniques. This takes place for a period of 4-5 days. Hence a solid fabric comes out as a result of meticulous labour of these craftsmen. This is the raw form of a Pashmina shawl. Later it goes through a number of procedures like smoothening the base, geting rid of foreign threads and materials that attached during the weaving process, washing the wrap in spring water, sun drying it, ironing and packing. If the shawl is to be embroidered, then it takes a few months to years to embroider Pashmina shawls.

A solid piece is sized as per the requirement of a customer of Cashmere wraps and scarves. It can be a large wrap of 100*200 cm size, or a medium wrap of 70 * 200 cm, or a small scarf for accessorizing. Some Cashmere wraps are hand embroidered with fine threads and needles, which are intricate enough to suit the gossamer base underneath. While some are embroidered in metallic threads (Tilla Dozi) which needs more skill, as metal can perforate the fabric underneath. Thus are produced beautiful and exquisite wraps, which are cherished by royalty all around the world. 

Do goats die for Cashmere?

As rumours hover over the manufacturing of Pashmina shawls, and in turn the processing of raw Cashmere wool, we are proud to say that Pashmina goats do not die for Cashmere. 

As we saw the process of Cashmere weaving in Kashmir, we realized that there is nothing unethical or cruel when it comes to the entire journey. The animals are carefully reared in the region of Changthang, and given proper food and drink. Their wool is not sheared or plucked; in fact, it is professionally and gently combed off its body, and the process is completely harmless and painless.

Combing is, again, done in the summer season when the wool has already made the goat uneasy, and it itself wants to get rid of it. It is never done in winters or early spring. The animal again grows the wool in early winters and remains safe from the freezing cold. Hence what we saw, was a complete ethical process that did not include a single step or process of cruelty. No animal dies; in fact, no animal is even slightly harmed. 

Why aren't goats hurt in the process of acquiring Pashmina

If animal activists and vegans claim that every animal product is cruel, we are confused why Cashmere sourcing is not. Why do herders take special care of their goats. There is a reason why the herders who rear Pashmina goats do not wish to hurt or kill them. After all, the goats are all they have.

Nomads have lived the life of a bedouin always. They survive harsh climatic conditions, and live thousands of kilometres away from the main city. And it is just the goats that help survive them, even in the worst of environmental conditions. The wool of the goats for clothing and flooring, their milk for drinking, and their company to survive and roam around the arid region, is what is their lifestyle. Hence, killing them would be like killing yourself

Another reason for the goats not be even slightly harmed is that they are domestic. When taken for combing, goats are well aware of the entire process. Hence they lie down calmly and patiently until all of the hair is combed. Had they been wild animals, they would certainly shake and try to run away. But since Pashmina goat habitually goes through the process for years, they know they are out of danger

Also read: Everything you need to know about Cashmere

Responsible Shopping

In addition to bring compassionate for animals, we found Cashmere and its processing to be planet friendly too. Infact, processing Cashmere is sustainable. The process empowers small-scale units, hence encouraging people to work, which in turn uplifts their social and financial status. Cashmere processing minimizes wastage, and doesn't include any machine work. There is no associated pollution with regards to processing Cashmere, and the entire process is manual. We found Cashmere shopping responsible and ethical. A Cashmere wrap lasts for a lifetime (around 30 years). It is a heritage piece, which is gifted to brides as well as bridesmaids. In today’s world of fast fashion and ever-changing trends, Cashmere is one such fabric that becomes more and more graceful as time passes. It has not remained rooted in traditional patterns only but mixed with contemporary designs too, to gel with the young generation. 

If you shop Pashmina, you are in turn helping an underprivileged artisan, and helping revive a dying heritage as well. You are contributing towards slow and sustainable fashion, which helps the planet be free of the much spread carbon footprint.