A Cashmere scarf can be a life savior in the winter season. With such ho-hum about this fine and luxury winter accessory, we decided to double-check if investing in it is a good idea. And we came up with these 7 brilliant reasons to own Cashmere instantly.

Winter is inching closer and closer every passing day and so is the chill which accompanies it. Commonly, one gets to see two different types of people during the colder months. Ones who constantly crib about the gloomy skies and the others who are enthusiastic about it. Being optimists at heart, we will only talk about the latter-the winter enthusiasts. They are the ones who will leave no stone unturned to make the most of it. They make sure to indulge in skiing, ice skating, snow fights, and whatnot.

However, winter doesn’t come with fun activities and Santa Claus alone. Take a moment to reflect over the winter days-physical discomfort, despondent skies, and a slowed-down lifestyle. All you want to do is to cozy under a blanket and prevent yourself from falling sick. Under the garb of “not falling sick”, many people add layer upon layer of clothing. It often makes them feel heavy and even unable to move. Not only this, they are not able to move freely and hence end up depriving themselves of all the fun. Here is when even the winter lovers, who were pretty excited about winter, have second thoughts if they want to stay to move to a warmer place.

We have a solution!

At Pashmina.com, we observed Fall Winter fashion trends for over a decade. We came to a startling realization-that there has been a revolution in how people perceive winter fashion. Earlier, they would opt for dark and dull colors, which would complement the grey skies. They would wear at least 3 layers of clothing to keep themselves warm & lie snugly under warm blankets in their free time. Today, the lifestyle has changed. Eyes sparkle up at the mere mention of winter because there is so much to do! This change of attitude reflects how people dress up. People no longer prefer to clad themselves in bulky sweaters and dark colors. Rather, they associate winters with a life that will rejuvenate them and clothing which provides subtle warmth.

This realization led us straight into the breathtaking valley of Kashmir, nestled in the lap of the Himalayas. Here skilled artisans meticulously spin and weave the need of modern-day lifestyle - Cashmere scarves. The plush and soft fabric bears testimony to the fact that you can feel comfortable and look stylish during the winter months. The 100% natural fabric has been cherished by the elite since centuries. Yet it relates to the needs of the modern generation. It’s matte, yet subtle look silently whispers that you can look equally attractive in your winter clothes. It’s sophisticated folds elevate your appearance to the point of luxury. Perhaps this is the reason why more and more people are opting for a Cashmere scarf every day. Hence today, we debunk all myths and facts surrounding Cashmere, and make it clear for its admirers as to what they are buying.

What is Cashmere ?

Ever since we have tapped into its origins, we have been flooded with interesting queries about Cashmere.

What is the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina?

What is it made up of?

Why is it expensive?

How can we tell the difference between an original and fake Cashmere scarf?

We could go on and on, and the list would still be endless.

To begin with, Cashmere is the raw wool, the undercoat of a Pashmina goat that is found in Ladakh. Even though it is found in China, Mongolia, Tibet, Nepal, and other regions in the world, but Ladakhi Cashmere is the best and finest of them all. The Changthangi goat in Ladakh survives a temperature of -40 degrees just because it is covered in this warm fleece. Cashmere keeps the goat warm and comfortable in winters and is the only protection that the goat has in a freezing temperature.

As soon as Winter bids goodbye and Spring arrives, this wool becomes a burden for the goat. To get rid of its warmth, it rubs itself with rough surfaces. Fine hair can be seen around bushes, rough stones, coarse bushes, and in their own shed walls. Herders realize that it's time, and call for professional help. Professionals arrive with specialized tools and combs and start combing the goat's body gently, stroke by stroke. Firstly large portions are covered and then the smaller ones. Finally, the goat is freed from the burden and it starts moving around freely.

It must be noted that one goat produces 70-400 grams of Cashmere, depending upon the size. Hence, to make one Pashmina shawl, wool from 3 to 4 goats is required.

What is Pashmina

Pashmina on the other hand is an art - the art of handcrafting luxury shawls, scarves, stoles and accessories from this fine Cashmere wool. The fabric was discovered in the 14th century by a Sufi mystic, who envisioned the world wearing it. He got his artisans working on the first set of Cashmere socks ever and voila, Cashmere has remained the most sought-after fabric in the whole wide world.

The fact that over 33 artisans work from dawn to dusk to create a simple Cashmere scarf over a span of 2 to 6 months is enough to justify its value. In fact, if you find a really cheap variant claiming to be a 100% pure Cashmere scarf, you’ll need to stay miles away from it because Cashmere cannot be sold cheap owing to its rarity, less production, and the long stretches of unmatched craftsmanship that go into its making. Earlier, finding a real piece of Cashmere scarf would be no less than climbing a snow-laden mountain. Today, the luxury fabric is a click away.

Why is Cashmere special ~ Why choose Cashmere?

The question still remains, why should someone opt for an original Cashmere scarf when they can find cheaper alternatives in the market. What benefit would it bring to invest in this luxury fabric when you can easily do with low prices winter accents easily available in the market. It is a piece of warm wrap deserving of paying a hefty price in its exchange. Do we really need a Cashmere scarf.

We, at Pashmina.com, are giving you some solid reasons to choose a Cashmere scarf to combat the cold weather!

Here are 7 great reasons to choose Cashmere. Let’s get started!

Cashmere is an all natural fabric

Like comfortable cottons and lustrous silks, Cashmere is an all-natural fabric. It is essentially made from animal hair-that of Changthangi goat. What is special about this hair is that it is the finest in the world. Studies reveal that the fibre shed by this goat is 6 times thinner than a strand of human hair. Besides, the processing of the original Cashmere does not know any machine intervention. It is gathered and cleaned by the locals, traded by nomads, spun over a wooden spindle by underprivileged women, and finally handwoven by a weaver over a traditional handloom.

Not a single thread of synthetic fibre or pollutant is used in the making of 100% pure Cashmere. The process has been preserved for over seven centuries like a holy grail. Even the process of dyeing Cashmere uses only natural or azo-free dyes. The process causes no harm-neither to the environment nor to your skin. So while you have the option to choose the cheaper variations available in the markets, a natural cashmere, free from the harshness of chemicals would be ideal and unique.

The handwoven luxuries are the synonym of comfort!

These scarves keep you warm (without sweating)

Cashmere is known to be the warmest of all fabrics the world has ever known. This warmth traces its origin to the Changthangi goat who grows this ultra-warm fleece to protect itself from the harsh temperatures of the Ladakh region in India. Come summer and the goat sheds its mane by rubbing itself against shrubs, rocks, or whatever rough surface it can find lurking within the remote area of Changthang.

This wool is then harvested by the locals and spun and woven into the finest shawls, wraps, and clothing mankind has ever known. And this leads us to important conclusion-that Cashmere scarves have warming properties ingrained into their essence right from the beginning. In addition to this, Cashmere has natural air pockets that provide outstanding insulation. This extra warmth coupled with the fact that Cashmere is the finest fabric in the world makes it ideal to wear on a cold winter day.

It helps you stay warm and cozy even when the temperatures drop down to zero or less. You could achieve this by wearing acrylic or polyester clothing, but they would make you sweat profusely (owing to their synthetic nature).

Cashmere is quite contrary to this. Because it is handwoven and made out of purely natural fibre, it is extremely breathable in nature. When you opt for Cashmere clothing, you are opting for winter free from the common cold, sore throats and so much more. And that is a big deal!

Cashmere Scarves come in a wide range of colors and styles

In the good old days, Cashmere would be seen in three primary natural colors-beige, brown, and white. As the years progressed, dyers began using 5 natural substances to cast roughly 64 shades. Today, Cashmere is seen in a myriad of color families-pastel, dark, bright, and metallic. This means that cashmere is no longer confined to its natural shades and you can wear it through any occasion or time of day! Also, each shade is obtained using azo-free dyes to ensure that the wearer is not allergic to it. The presence of brighter shaded Cashmere scarves has given a whole new dimension to the gloomy winters. The skies may be sad, but your bright and beautiful persona ain’t!

Not only this, Cashmere was initially perceived as shawls laden with extra embroideries. Today, there is a Cashmere to suit every personality-minimal, formal, sophisticated, or bold. There are striped and plaid Cashmere for the city girls and then there are heavy hand embroidered Jamawars for those who like to stay rooted in traditions. No matter what your mood or personality type, there is a Pashmina tailor-made to your taste. All you need to do is look for it.

That ultra-soft feel of Cashmere scarves is to die for

Nothing matches the softness of an original handwoven Cashmere. There are many warm and soft materials that provide you warmth during the winters but none of them comes an inch closer to the feel of a Pashmina. If you’ve ever passed your fingers through the fold of one, you’ll know the difference. If you haven’t, well, it feels softer than a feather against your skin, it even feels softer than a newly made ball of cotton. Once you experience this feathery touch, you will not be able to settle for anything less. It is because of this soft touch, coupled with its feathery light essence, which makes Cashmere loved by the elite across the globe.

These do cause any allergies

Many of us have experienced allergies due to harsh chemicals, synthetic fibres, and whatnot. Moreover, you’ll agree that these allergies often come uninvited at any time of the year (even in winter). If you are among the experienced lot, you’ll understand how difficult it is to fight one (especially during the discomfort of winter). Now here’s the good part-Cashmere scarves cause no allergies. This is backed up by the fact that there is neither the use of synthetic fibres in the making of original Cashmere nor any chemicals. In addition to this, its molecular structure doesn’t allow particles and residue to breed.

Natural fibre in its pristine and unadulterated form will never cause you an allergy. If you are wearing cashmere clothes, you will significantly reduce your chances of being struck by an allergy. Moreover, cashmere scarves will never cause you any redness or skin irritations. Take it as a word from a Pashmina expert!

Your scarf is going to last a lifetime

Well Well, What is the average life of your favourite piece of clothing or accessory (other than Cashmere) - one year, or two? Even if you took care of it like it is your own baby, it is going to last for a maximum of 10 years. Agree? On the contrary, Cashmere lasts for almost a century if you take good care of it. Back in the place where it is made, a Pashmina shawl is passed on from mother to daughter for generations altogether. So if you are stuck in a dilemma of making the heavy investment, know that it is going to be your closest confidante for life. Of course, the long life depends upon how well you take care of it!

You’ll be the head-turner wherever you go!

As goes the adage, “luxury speaks for itself!” You won’t have to speak about your heavy investment piece when you choose an original Cashmere scarf. It will make a statement of its own. It will speak volumes about your sophistication and class like it has for the royals.

It is hot summers when Cashmere is gently combed off the body of a Cashmere goat. The process is carried out by professionals in an ethical way. No animals die in the process of obtaining Cashmere.

People who love to dress up in oversized cardigans and wraps have recently dropped the idea to shop for new ones of the same type. The reason being the new buzzwords of sustainability and ethical shopping catching their eye and making them guilty about being a part of animal cruelty. The same is the case with Cashmere. A back fence talking about Cashmere acquisition being cruel to animals has recently gained weight. Hence customers are totally avoiding Cashmere purchases. There have been seemingly painful pictures circulating, where goats are held by herders in inhuman ways and are shearing or picking hair from their body, leaving them bare-bodied in cold winter.

How much weight does this fact contain? Do goats die for Cashmere? Is it true that Cashmere counts for animal cruelty? Or is this a hoax? A detailed look into the matter gave us some insights into it; we realized that there is no truth to it.

What is Cashmere?

Far away, in the lands where no one seems to have travelled, a place called Changthang is located over 14000 feet. The place remains unaffected from whatever happens in the city, and follow their own religion, culture and lifestyle.

The main activity of the Bedouin herders is rearing animal and surviving in difficult conditions that nature has tested them with. It is just goat and sheep products that they are dependent on. They would have to walk miles together to get to the nearest shop, for a basic purchase. As such, Cashmere trading remains their only source of income

Cashmere is the fine unspun wool that is found on the body of the Himalayan goat. The goat is called Changthangi goat, as it is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. As a way out to survive in winters, nature has blessed this goat with a fine and smooth down hair, which protects it from -40 degrees. This wool is the reason that the goat is able to survive such harsh conditions. Cashmere grows as an undercoat on the underbelly, back, neck and behind the ears of the goat. It is only when spring and summer arrive, that the wool makes this goat uneasy and uncomfortable. It rubs itself against the surrounding areas like rough walls, shrubs, and the floor to leave a part of the wool around.

Seeing the goats in agony, herders call for professional help, who bring along specialized tools as well as their know-how, and gently comb off the wool from the goat’s body. The goat is left free to roam around the region and herders are left with a lump of delicate wool, which needs processing to become valuable. 

The Changthangi Goat

Changthangi goat/Pashmina goat or the Cashmere goat is a mammal which produces fine as well as coarse hair called guard hair. These goats are of medium stature, and do not grow beyond 80 cm in height. Males weigh around 45-47 kg while females weigh around 35 kg. Pashmina goats have large wide horns, a blocky buildup and beautiful features which attract even casual passers by. The most dominant colour among Pashmina goats is white, but black, brown, cream, grey coloured goats are also found, however in lesser numbers. 

Pashmina goats are alert and active, and not lazy and docile. Perhaps for this reason, nature has chosen it to survive one of the harshest climates in the world. Pashmina goats sustain themselves in -40 degrees, as well as manage to grow the world finest fleece over their bodies, which becomes the source of Pashmina shawls. Changthangi goats give just one birth a year. Making Cashmere rarer and more exclusive.

One Pashmina goat yields 60 to 500 grams, spending on their size or general productivity. The wool is obtained once a year in the spring season. Being so rare and unique leads to its high pricing in the market. Wool from the goat is collected by hand as much as possible. The rest of the wool still attached to the goat’s body is acquired by combing it off with specialized combs and tools. This process is ethically carried out by professionals, who wait patiently for the Cashmere wool to loosen naturally, so that the goat doesn't feel pained. The right time for combing is indicated by the goats themselves rubbing their bodies against harsh and coarse surfaces. 

The Armed Professionals

Professionals use safe and sterilized combs and other sorts of equipment to free the goats off the wool. They usually carry paper sacks to store the wool, natural bristle brushes, pin brushes, and metal tooth combs. Combing is done by removing any dirt or foreign material from the goat’s body with a larger bristles brush.

Following the removal of guard hair, thin pinned brush is used to remove the actual Cashmere wool off its ribs, backbone and areas where the fibre is longer. Afterwards shorter hair is removed from the neck, behind the ears and other areas where less hair is expected to grow. Combing the entire body of a Pashmina goat takes a minimum of 30 minutes. The time varies with the skill and experience of the professional as well as the size of the goats. Sometimes external conditions like bad weather can also affect the overall duration of the combing process. Nevertheless, the goat is now free of this burden and roams around freely

Guard Hair vs Fine Hair

Fine Cashmere is pure and it is used to make Pashmina shawls. It is free from foreign material like dust, dirt, animal residues and vegetable wastes. It is this fine Cashmere that is transported to Kashmir to get it processed.

When Pure Cashmere is acquired, it is merged with coarse and rough guard hair. Guard hair is thicker, and is used to make products like brushes, interlinings and apparel.

Sorting fine wool:

As soon as the fine Cashmere reaches a sorting stage, it is thoroughly checked for any presence of guard hair, or dirt which is left during the combing process. Finer Cashmere too gets separated from the fibres that aren't as fine smooth. This is done to make sure that the final Pashmina shawl, stole, scarf or wrap is in the purest form.

Processing Cashmere

The lump of wool is sent to Kashmir where it is, on its arrival, cleaned thoroughly and sorted. A clean lump of wool is handed over to womenfolk coming from different underprivileged areas. They clean the wool, and place it in a container, and over this powdered rice is scattered. This mixture stands for a few days. It makes the fibre stronger and smoother. After 3-4 days, the fibre is removed from this container and cleaned again to get rid of any rice residue left.

Clean fibre is handed over to women, who group together and start spinning Cashmere into fine threads. This is a laborious process and takes high skill and patience to do. A perfect rhythm and balance between the hands of the spinner and the movement of the spinning wheel is a must. Or else the fine fibre would easily break and lose its value. Spun threads are of a diameter of 12-16 microns, thus being one of the finest and luxurious ones. Perfection is achieved, as Kashmiri women have mastered the skill, and are able to spin fine hair with ease and perfection.

Hand Weaving - a one of a kind skill

The threads are now ready to be handwoven, as such fine threads can't tolerate machine strain. Hence they are handed over to men weavers who have a specialization of decades to hand weave the finest fibre in the world. Men weavers mount the fibre onto a traditional wooden hand loom and start weaving it in classic techniques. This takes place for a period of 4-5 days. Hence a solid fabric comes out as a result of meticulous labour of these craftsmen. This is the raw form of a Pashmina shawl. Later it goes through a number of procedures like smoothening the base, geting rid of foreign threads and materials that attached during the weaving process, washing the wrap in spring water, sun drying it, ironing and packing. If the shawl is to be embroidered, then it takes a few months to years to embroider Pashmina shawls.

A solid piece is sized as per the requirement of a customer of Cashmere wraps and scarves. It can be a large wrap of 100*200 cm size, or a medium wrap of 70 * 200 cm, or a small scarf for accessorizing. Some Cashmere wraps are hand embroidered with fine threads and needles, which are intricate enough to suit the gossamer base underneath. While some are embroidered in metallic threads (Tilla Dozi) which needs more skill, as metal can perforate the fabric underneath. Thus are produced beautiful and exquisite wraps, which are cherished by royalty all around the world. 

Do goats die for Cashmere?

As rumours hover over the manufacturing of Pashmina shawls, and in turn the processing of raw Cashmere wool, we are proud to say that Pashmina goats do not die for Cashmere. 

As we saw the process of Cashmere weaving in Kashmir, we realized that there is nothing unethical or cruel when it comes to the entire journey. The animals are carefully reared in the region of Changthang, and given proper food and drink. Their wool is not sheared or plucked; in fact, it is professionally and gently combed off its body, and the process is completely harmless and painless.

Combing is, again, done in the summer season when the wool has already made the goat uneasy, and it itself wants to get rid of it. It is never done in winters or early spring. The animal again grows the wool in early winters and remains safe from the freezing cold. Hence what we saw, was a complete ethical process that did not include a single step or process of cruelty. No animal dies; in fact, no animal is even slightly harmed. 

Why aren't goats hurt in the process of acquiring Pashmina

If animal activists and vegans claim that every animal product is cruel, we are confused why Cashmere sourcing is not. Why do herders take special care of their goats. There is a reason why the herders who rear Pashmina goats do not wish to hurt or kill them. After all, the goats are all they have.

Nomads have lived the life of a bedouin always. They survive harsh climatic conditions, and live thousands of kilometres away from the main city. And it is just the goats that help survive them, even in the worst of environmental conditions. The wool of the goats for clothing and flooring, their milk for drinking, and their company to survive and roam around the arid region, is what is their lifestyle. Hence, killing them would be like killing yourself

Another reason for the goats not be even slightly harmed is that they are domestic. When taken for combing, goats are well aware of the entire process. Hence they lie down calmly and patiently until all of the hair is combed. Had they been wild animals, they would certainly shake and try to run away. But since Pashmina goat habitually goes through the process for years, they know they are out of danger

Also read: Everything you need to know about Cashmere

Responsible Shopping

In addition to bring compassionate for animals, we found Cashmere and its processing to be planet friendly too. Infact, processing Cashmere is sustainable. The process empowers small-scale units, hence encouraging people to work, which in turn uplifts their social and financial status. Cashmere processing minimizes wastage, and doesn't include any machine work. There is no associated pollution with regards to processing Cashmere, and the entire process is manual. We found Cashmere shopping responsible and ethical. A Cashmere wrap lasts for a lifetime (around 30 years). It is a heritage piece, which is gifted to brides as well as bridesmaids. In today’s world of fast fashion and ever-changing trends, Cashmere is one such fabric that becomes more and more graceful as time passes. It has not remained rooted in traditional patterns only but mixed with contemporary designs too, to gel with the young generation. 

If you shop Pashmina, you are in turn helping an underprivileged artisan, and helping revive a dying heritage as well. You are contributing towards slow and sustainable fashion, which helps the planet be free of the much spread carbon footprint.

Pashmina wrap is a luxuriously light yet warm drape accessory, which is handcrafted from delicate and fine Cashmere wool; ethically acquired from the down coat of the Ladakhi goat. It is world-famous and endorsed by celebrities around the globe

Pashmina comes from the root word "pashm" which means "soft gold" in Persian. But in Kashmir, pashm refers to unspun Cashmere wool of Changthangi goats. Today Pashmina is considered an art that refers to the process of transforming fine goat fibre into the extraordinarily luxurious fabric. 

History of Pashmina

Pashmina gained acclaim in Kashmir during the Mughal rule. During this period, Pashmina indicated a high rank and a noble stature. Mughals gifted neighboring countries' rulers the robes of honor which were made in Cashmere wool. This would mean either friendship or a great achievement and service to the court. Back then, Pashmina would be only afforded by nobles and kings. In fact, their apparel and upholstery would be made in Pashmina embroidered with real gold. 

Since the 19th-century Pashmina began to be used as a piece of a woman's bridal trousseau. An heirloom piece of a Pashmina wrap would be given to a girl the day she would get married; it would accompany her to her new life. 

Pashmina gained impetus in France when Empress Josephine enthusiastically used it. It is believed that she owned a few hundred pieces. In fact, the famous Buta or Paisley motif that actually Pashmina wraps introduced in the west were now imprinted on gowns and accessories in Europe. Other than this, Pashminas kept women as warm as they kept them looking graceful and monarchical all the time. Every single person in Europe, Asia, and in Kashmir itself was swooned by the fineness of the fibre, the embroidery patterns, and the ultimate warmth it provided. Everyone wanted to own a piece for themselves. 

Making of Pashmina - The source of a Pashmina wrap

Pashmina wraps are made with Cashmere fibre, one of the finest fibers in the world. The raw wool comes from Ladakh's Changthangi goat, which is found at over 14000 feet above sea level. The goat survives -40 degrees because of a fine down coat that grows over its underbelly, neck, and a few areas on its body. This wool is smooth, fine, and exceptionally warm, and it is just because of this wool that the goat is able to get fed and roam around in the area.

As soon as spring and summer arrive, the same wool leaves the goat feeling uneasy and irritable. Its natural tendency to rub itself against walls, rough stones, bushes, and the floor lets some wool from its body spread around the entire region. This is collected in hot summers, and the rest is collected off its body by professionals with the help of specialized combs and tools. It is a lump of wool, to be processed further

The wool reaches Kashmir because Kashmir is the hub of handicrafts, including Pashmina art. The process begins with cleaning and sorting the raw wool, which takes a few weeks. The clean lump of wool is then spun by womenfolk of the valley who have specialized in the same for decades now.

Spinning leads to the creation of threads of the same wool. These threads are so fine that sometimes they aren't visible to the naked eye until clearly noticed. The diameter of these threads is 12-16 microns only. This fibre is Cashmere - the raw material for making a Pashmina wrap. It is later sent to weavers who mount it over their wooden handlooms. They weave it for 4-5 days continuously to come up with plain solid fabric. This is the Pashmina wrap. It can be made in different sizes according to the customer's taste.

Embroideries done over Pashmina

A number of hand embroideries are done over the Pashmina wraps, as they come out of handloom setups. Sozni Kari and Papier Mache Embroidery are thread embroideries that use fine needles and threads in kaleidoscopic colours to pep up the solid base of Pashmina wraps. Tilla Dozi, too, is a thread embroidery, just that thread is metallic, and sometimes real gold and silver are used in place of metals. Pashmina has started to incorporate contemporary patterns like stripes, animal prints, monograms, and checks to be a part of the young generation's wardrobes, who have already embraced its ardor and love

Sizes: How long and broad is a Pashmina wrap?

Pashmina wraps come in a number of sizes. Men's Pashmina wraps are large; about 55*108 inches in size. Women's shawls come in 100*200 cms size, stoles in 70*200 cms size. Then there are scarves that can be just 8 inches wide. Pashmina wraps can be worn with ethnic as well as modern outfits. They can be used to enliven dull shaded outfits as well as minimize overdone looks.

Responsible Shopping - Is buying Pashmina ethical?

Pashmina is the art that substantiates the concept of sustainability and doing good for the planet at large. The wraps are handcrafted, which helps grow local small enterprises and minimizes wastage by lasting for over 25 years. Pashmina sustains families of artisans, thereby helping their community prosper and their children a better life. There is zero intervention of machines when a Pashmina wrap is processed, and hence a large percentage of the population decreases. Hence when a pure Pashmina wrap is purchased, it is, by all means, an ethical shopping done by patrons of art as well as conscious shoppers who wish to make the world a better place to live in.

Only a few buyers are smart and knowledgeable shoppers when it comes to fabric. Most of us while buying a fabric pick one that feels good, or it has a nice colour, maybe a favourite one, or other petty reasons excluding the actual fruit. Even though there are some tangibles for which such unconscious shopping is justified. But what happens if you shop carelessly for something that is a lifetime investment? You regret the decision for the rest of the year. A person usually buys a Pashmina scarf just once or twice in his entire lifetime. It is an exceptional craft & in ancient times it would only be affordable to queens and the affluent. But now since it is easily available, people easily afford it. As such an authentic Pashmina has become hard to find.

When buying a Pashmina there are a number of things a buyer needs to keep in mind. It is not the colour, design, and size that matters in a Pashmina, but purity, originality, and authenticity. 

• Is your Pashmina original? 
• How to test my Pashmina?
• Is my Pashmina Authentic?
• How do I know if my Pashmina is pure? 
• Where to buy a pure Pashmina from? 
• How to tell if a pashmina is real

We answer all these questions, but first, we ask ourselves: why is the purity of Pashmina an issue? Do we always care about the material when we shop for wraps or apparel? We don't! Then why care about the authenticity and originality of Pashmina so much? We tell you why

What is Pashmina?

Every time you go shop for apparel, it is just an in-vogue set of fabrics styled to the latest fashion, which you see in the shop, on TV, on the internet, or elsewhere. However, Pashmina wraps aren't like this. Because Pashmina is an art.

In the 16th century, Kashmir was a place reeling under darkness; the darkness of being economically backward, ignorance, and inequality of caste system and social status. But when a Sufi Saint from Persia visited the valley, these social prejudices and economic issues improved drastically. This was Shah I Hamdan, who not only uplifted the nation morally but economically as well. With a team of more than 700 craftsmen, who were masters of their skills from Persia, China, Egypt, and Russia, Shah I Hamdan managed to train local Kashmiri men and women in some handicrafts for which Kashmir became famous.

Shah E Hamdan and Pashmina

Among the crafts that Shah I Hamdan taught the locals were the following; carpet manufacturing, shawl making, Papier Mache, copper work, silverwork, embroideries, calligraphy, bookbinding, and many more. But one craft that caught the attention of the maximum number of people who opted for it was Pashmina. Pashmina was the art of converting fine Cashmere wool to luxury scarves or shawls. These were so graceful and magical in their making, that royalty and commoners all over the world swooned.

However, it was Zain Ul Abideen, the then king of the Kashmir valley, during whose rule the Pashmina manufacturing units came into existence and the art thrived. The king enlivened the art of Pashmina by encouraging people to make it a cottage industry. This was especially for women. The king offered women the proposal to work from their respective homes. If so, they would be able to earn even in those days when the valley would be completely cut off from the outside world due to enormous amounts of snow (the harsh winter period, which would last for almost 6 months - or even more).

Hence the economy drastically improved and Kashmir became renowned for a number of arts - especially that of Pashmina. Now Kashmiri artisans would be invited to places near and far, nationally and internationally. They would be requested to train local artisans who would take training sessions from them.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is a luxurious art form that transforms the fine cashmere wool of Changthangi goats into exquisite shawls, scarves, and wraps. This delicate and labour-intensive process begins with sourcing the wool from these high-altitude goats, which reside in the remote regions of Ladakh in India. The wool, known for its exceptional softness and warmth, undergoes several meticulous stages to become the luxurious Pashmina products cherished worldwide.

Definition and Process

The journey of Pashmina starts with the collection of raw cashmere wool. The Changthangi goats, also known as Pashmina goats, grow a fine undercoat of wool to survive the harsh Himalayan winters. This wool is carefully combed or sheared during the spring season when the goats naturally shed their winter coat. The collected wool is then cleaned and sorted to remove impurities.

The next step is spinning, where the fine wool fibers are handspun into yarn. This process requires immense skill and patience, as the fibers are extremely delicate. Traditional spinning wheels, known as "charkhas," are used by skilled artisans to create the fine yarn that forms the foundation of Pashmina.

Once the yarn is ready, it moves to the weaving stage. Expert weavers use traditional handlooms to interlace the yarn into intricate patterns. This process can take weeks or even months, depending on the complexity of the design. The resulting fabric is then washed and stretched to enhance its softness and drape.

For many Pashmina products, embroidery is an integral part of the artistry. Artisans embellish the fabric with intricate needlework, often using silk or metallic threads. These designs can range from simple motifs to elaborate patterns, adding to the uniqueness and beauty of each piece.

Unique Properties of Pashmina

Pashmina is renowned for its unparalleled softness. The fine fibers of cashmere wool are much softer than regular sheep's wool, making Pashmina products incredibly gentle against the skin. This softness is one of the key factors in determining "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real." Authentic Pashmina will feel exceptionally smooth and luxurious to the touch.

Another hallmark of Pashmina is its remarkable warmth. Despite being lightweight, Pashmina offers excellent insulation, providing warmth without the bulk. This makes Pashmina shawls and scarves perfect for both chilly winter days and cool summer evenings. The lightweight nature of Pashmina also adds to its appeal, as it drapes beautifully and can be worn comfortably in various styles.

Pashmina’s unique properties of softness, warmth, and lightweight make it a highly sought-after luxury item. However, the market is flooded with imitations, making it crucial for buyers to know "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real?" Authentic Pashmina products come from trusted sources and exhibit the fine craftsmanship and quality that have been perfected over centuries.

Pashmina is a testament to the rich cultural heritage and skilled artistry of the regions where it is produced. The transformation of raw cashmere wool into luxurious Pashmina shawls, scarves, and wraps involves intricate processes that highlight the dedication and expertise of the artisans. With its unmatched softness, warmth, and lightweight nature, genuine Pashmina remains a symbol of luxury and elegance, cherished by those who appreciate fine craftsmanship and timeless beauty.

Making of a Pashmina Scarf

Perhaps the most meticulous processes are those included in making a Pashmina scarf. Be it a Pashmina shawl, scarf, or stole, the way it is handcrafted is not an ordinary one. A scarf has to roughly pass around 30 stages before it can be sold to its admirers all over the world. As many as 36 individuals, who are masters in a different skill than the previous one, are involved. Thus a Pashmina scarf becomes a family affair. If the man takes care of weaving Cashmere, women might be busy with spinning and other family members would spend time embroidering or calendaring the scarf.

It all starts with the spinning of raw Cashmere by the womenfolk of a family. They spend almost all day cleaning, sorting, smoothening, and spinning raw Cashmere. Women collect raw Cashmere wool from those who acquire it from Ladakh. This practice is as old as Pashmina itself in Kashmir. Women of all ages have spun Cashmere at some point in time. Nowadays this practice is largely done by machines.

After spinning the wool is sent for weaving where men of the family mount the fine-spun yarn onto a wooden handloom and spin it into wraps, stoles, scarves, and more. This results in the formation of a plain wrap; it can be embellished in any way one can - the most common being embroidery. Hence, these pieces are hand embroidered in a number of embroideries, which are again all traditional to the valley.

Embroideries on Pashmina need to be done by hand as the underlying fabric is too delicate, gentle, and gossamer to bear the burden of thicker machine threads.

Why choose pure?

When huge revenues started pouring into the valley on account of the sale of heavenly warm Pashmina scarves, a few traders indulged in unethical practices. Pashmina scarves are handmade, and one scarf can be handwoven in a span of 3-4 days. Hence customers have to wait for a long time before the product comes out of the loom. And if someone needs an embroidered piece, he/she has to wait for years for the product to get embroidered woven, and spun. Hence revenue gets stuck, and makers have to wait for their share for a long time.

Some traders, therefore, gave away to frauds and started making scarves on power looms. The power loom could prepare the same scarves in one hour that the handloom did in 4 days. To make the soft and delicate Cashmere bear the strain of machines, these traders would mix strengthening fibre like nylon, or silk with Cashmere, and then pass it through a machine. As such more quantity and less quality Pashmina scarves were manufactured. And thus finding a pure Pashmina scarf became a challenge, as well as a luxury to possess.

The Importance of Identifying Real Pashmina

Identifying real Pashmina is crucial for several reasons, including its economic value and cultural significance. Understanding "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real" can help buyers make informed decisions and appreciate the true worth of this luxurious fabric.

Economic Value:

Real Pashmina commands a high price due to its exceptional quality and the labour-intensive processes involved in its production. From sourcing the fine cashmere wool of Changthangi goats to the intricate weaving and embroidery, each step requires skilled craftsmanship and considerable time. This results in a product that is not only beautiful but also durable and valuable. However, the market is flooded with imitations and synthetic substitutes that are sold as genuine Pashmina.

Buying fake Pashmina can lead to significant financial loss. Consumers may pay a high price for a product that lacks the unique qualities of real Pashmina, such as its softness, warmth, and lightweight nature. These imitations often deteriorate quickly, lacking the longevity and comfort of genuine Pashmina. Therefore, knowing "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real" is essential to ensure that the investment is worthwhile and that the buyer receives a product that matches the price they pay.

Cultural and Sentimental Value:

Beyond its economic worth, Pashmina holds deep cultural and sentimental significance, particularly in regions like Kashmir and Ladakh. Pashmina has been a part of these cultures for centuries, symbolizing elegance, luxury, and heritage. The art of Pashmina weaving is passed down through generations, with artisans dedicating their lives to perfecting their craft. Each Pashmina piece is a testament to this rich cultural heritage and the meticulous skill of the artisans who create it.

Authenticity matters because real Pashmina represents more than just a fabric; it embodies tradition, history, and cultural identity. For many, owning a genuine Pashmina shawl or scarf is a way to connect with this heritage and honour the craftsmanship of the artisans. Fake Pashmina, on the other hand, undermines this cultural value and diminishes the recognition and respect that genuine Pashmina deserves.

Moreover, Pashmina often carries sentimental value as it is commonly given as a gift during significant life events such as weddings, festivals, and other celebrations. A genuine Pashmina piece is not only a luxurious gift but also a meaningful one, symbolizing warmth, care, and appreciation. In contrast, a fake Pashmina can tarnish these sentiments, leaving the giver and receiver disappointed.

Identifying real Pashmina is essential to preserve its economic, cultural, and sentimental value. Understanding "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real" ensures that buyers can make informed choices, support genuine craftsmanship, and appreciate the true essence of this luxurious fabric.

The Deception

Imagine investing in a $2000-4000 shawl and then coming to know that it is not Pure Pashmina. How much effort was wasted? The people who acquire the raw fibre from Ladakh, the women who spun it, the men who had to weave it on the handloom, and the embroiderers who would feel it a pleasure to embroider handmade Pashmina, all feel cheated when greedy vendors make scarves on power looms. Hence the need to buy a pure Pashmina rose. Ardent patrons of the art became more and more active in search of pure shawls. They started questioning the sellers, and looking for flaws in their already purchased pieces, but didn't know how to spot a fake Pashmina.

So we decided to write this article to assist the general audience in finding the purest, most authentic and certified Pashmina for them, and enjoy its luxurious warmth and graceful demeanour it exudes.

How can you tell a real Pashmina? | How to tell if a pashmina is real

Real Pashmina, possesses distinctive qualities that can help identify its genuineness. A true pashmina is famous for its exceptional softness, lightweight feel, and exquisite warmth. This stems from the unique climate conditions and natural fibers of the Himalayan region. When examining a pashmina, one has to look for a number of factors. Authentic pashminas often display handcrafted designs, intricate patterns, and fine embroidery. Hence they showcase the artisanal craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. While assessing its authenticity, consider the source, price, and reputation of the seller, as well as any certification or labelling that might accompany the product.

Here are a few factors to notice when buying a Pashmina:

Did the seller present to you a Certificate?

If your seller isn't giving you a scarf with the GI tag on it, it can still be pure and original, but on one condition; he should be able to present to you a certificate. Craft Development Institute (CDI) Srinagar is an organization that issues certificates for pure Pashminas on the basis of purity and authenticity. It measures a number of things like micron conformation, weight, purity, handmade certification, and more. If a seller can produce this certificate for a scarf, then the piece is an authentic Pashmina. 

Look for Variety in Pashmina scarves

Even though this might not always be the case, if a seller has a large variety of Pashminas scarves, or has a large number of customers who trust him and speak well of his quality products, chances are that he is an authentic dealer. This is because a large number of manufacturers will put their trust in an authentic vendor. As such, readily sell him their painstakingly produced authentic Pashmina pieces.

On the other hand, a seller who isn't authentic might not be able to attract more manufacturers because of the lack of trust, as well as won't have a large customer base.

An Authentic Pashmina scarf can't be too cheap

Pashmina is the art of handcrafted luxury fabric out of fine Cashmere wool, which an exotic Pashmina goat grows over its sensitive areas like belly and throat. It is this wool that makes the goat survive a harsh -40 degree temperature. This raw wool then comes to Kashmir. There artisans spin and weave it into luxury accessories and apparel. The entire process is time-consuming, painstaking, and patience-testing, and consumes a lot of labour and effort. Hence, an authentic Pashmina is a little higher on the price scale. 

Similarly, there are sellers who, to make the customers happy, sell their scarves at a low price, which is too good to be true for a Pashmina scarf. These are sellers of fake pieces who sell either pure wool in place of Pashmina or mix Pashmina and silk and sell it as a pure piece. Always make it a point to thoroughly check the authenticity of the seller as well as the scarf that he is selling you.

Also read: THE TRAIL OF INDIA’S CASHMERE GOAT MEN

Uneven Weave and Eyelash Fringes

When buying a pure Pashmina, don't look for perfection, because a handmade product will never be even in texture. The weave should be rather gauzy, an open weave because fine Cashmere fibre cannot tolerate high tension. If you hold a real Pashmina up to the light it should show the mastery of the ‘hand’ of the weaver, which means the weave should be uneven. Shuttle speeds of power loom tend to tear the fragile fibre. Hence to weave an authentic Pashmina, a traditional Kashmiri wooden loom has to be used.

For the same reason, a genuine & real pashmina should never have tasselled edges but a simple ‘eyelash’ fringe, because the fibre is not strong enough to twist and pull in that fashion.

Look for the (Geographical Indication) GI tag on a Pashmina Scarf

To preserve the purity of the art of Pashmina making, the govt of Jammu and Kashmir has rewarded pure Pashmina with a GI tag.

GI (Geographical Indication) is a mark of purity that distinguishes pure Pashmina from its fake copies. It is similar to a stamp, located at the corners of a scarf. If a scarf shawl or any Pashmina product contains this stamp, it is 100% pure and authentic Pashmina of Kashmir.

It is quintessential to have good information on Pashmina quality and pricing before you start shopping for the cherished luxury piece, which comes straight from Paradise-Kashmir. It is, after all, the dream of women all over the world to own just one piece of Pashmina. Hence we made sure it is of the best quality

Own a Pashmina already? Test your Pashmina at home to check purity.

5 tests to check your Pashmina purity at home

Identifying pure Pashmina can be challenging because there are many imitations and blends in the market. If you already own a Pashmina, and now have doubts about its purity, we got solutions. There are a few purity tests that one can conduct at home. Keep in mind that a combination of these methods is often the most reliable way to confirm purity. Here are five essential tests that one can easily do at home to confirm the purity of their Pashmina.

Fibre Thickness

Pure Pashmina fibres are extremely fine, typically measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter. You can use a microscope to examine the fibres in a small section of the fabric. You can take your shawl or scarf to a nearby lab and get it professionally tested too. If the fibres are significantly thicker, it may indicate that the product is not pure Pashmina.

The Burn Test

This test involves burning a small piece of the fabric. Pashmina is made from animal fibres and will smell like burnt hair when ignited. It will also leave a fine ash residue. Synthetic materials or blends tend to produce different smells and may not leave ash behind.

The Touch Test

Pure Pashmina is incredibly soft to the touch. Run your fingers across the fabric's surface and see if it feels exceptionally soft and luxurious. Synthetic or blended materials often lack this softness.

The Price and Source

Authentic Pashmina is a premium product, and the price should reflect its quality. If you purchased this Pashmina shawl or scarf at a significantly lower cost than what is typical for genuine Pashmina shawls or scarves. Additionally, if you have purchased it from reputable sources or sellers who provided certification of authenticity, then you need not worry.

Irregular Weave of Pashmina

Pure Pashmina fabric often exhibits an irregular or slightly textured weave, and this unique characteristic is one of the hallmarks of authentic Pashmina. A sequenced and regular weave can be done by a machine. Authentic Pashmina shawls and scarves are often handwoven by skilled artisans. The handmade nature of the weaving process can result in slight irregularities in the weave pattern. These imperfections are not considered flaws but rather a testament to the craftsmanship and authenticity of the product.

Common Myths and Misconceptions

Pashmina, known for its luxurious feel and exquisite craftsmanship, often falls prey to various myths and misconceptions. These misunderstandings can mislead potential buyers and detract from the true value of genuine Pashmina. Let’s address and debunk some common myths while providing accurate information to help you understand "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real?"

Myth 1: Pashmina and Cashmere are the Same

A widespread misconception is that Pashmina and cashmere are interchangeable terms. While both are used interchangeably, Pashmina refers to the art of converting cashmere wool to luxury Pashmina shawls, This wool is sourced from the Changthangi goats of the Himalayas. The art of Pashmina encompasses the intricate processes of weaving this raw wool into luxurious shawls, scarves, and embroidering and embellishing these. Understanding this distinction is crucial in learning "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real."

Myth 2: Pashmina is Always Expensive

While genuine Pashmina products can be pricey due to the labour-intensive process and high-quality materials, not all expensive shawls or scarves are authentic Pashmina. The cost alone should not be the sole indicator of authenticity. Buyers should look for specific markers of genuine Pashmina, such as the feel, craftsmanship, and sometimes even certifications, rather than relying solely on price as a determinant.

Myth 3: All Pashmina is Handwoven

Another misconception is that all Pashmina products are handwoven. While traditional Pashmina shawls are indeed crafted by skilled artisans using handlooms, some modern Pashmina products may be machine-woven. This does not necessarily mean they are of inferior quality, but for those seeking traditional craftsmanship, it is essential to confirm the weaving method. Knowing "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real" involves understanding these nuances and being able to identify handwoven pieces.

Myth 4: Pashmina is Not Warm

Due to its lightweight nature, some people believe that Pashmina does not provide adequate warmth. In reality, Pashmina’s fine fibers offer excellent insulation, making it exceptionally warm without the bulk. This unique property allows Pashmina to be both lightweight and highly effective in keeping the wearer warm, debunking the myth that it lacks warmth.

Myth 5: Pashmina is Too Delicate to Wear Regularly

While Pashmina is indeed delicate and requires careful handling, it is not too fragile for regular use. With proper care, such as gentle hand washing and careful storage, Pashmina products can maintain their beauty and functionality for many years. This misconception often deters people from investing in Pashmina, but knowing how to care for it properly is part of "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real."

Myth 6: Pashmina Only Comes in Plain Designs

Some people believe that Pashmina shawls and scarves only come in plain, solid colours. However, Pashmina can be found in a variety of designs, including intricate embroidery, patterns, and even modern prints. The versatility in design is part of what makes Pashmina a cherished accessory in both traditional and contemporary fashion.

By addressing these common myths and providing accurate information, we can better appreciate the true value of Pashmina. Recognizing "How to Tell if a Pashmina is Real?" involves understanding its origins, craftsmanship, and unique properties, which distinguish it from other fabrics and ensure its place as a timeless and luxurious material.

Conclusion

In conclusion, determining the authenticity of a Pashmina is a matter of careful observation and a series of tests that can help you make an informed decision. The allure of Pashmina lies in its exceptional softness, lightweight warmth, and timeless elegance, making it a sought-after addition to any wardrobe. However, with the market flooded with imitations and blends, it becomes crucial to distinguish genuine Pashmina from the rest.

Investing in a real Pashmina not only provides you with a luxurious and timeless accessory but also connects you to a rich cultural heritage and supports the skilled artisans who craft these exquisite pieces. In your quest for authenticity, trust your senses and seek out reputable sources to experience the true beauty of pure Pashmina.

Also read: WHY IS THE PASHMINA VERY THIN YET VERY WARM?

Dressing up well has always been an obsession for women all around the world. In fact, what you wear casts a huge impression on others and even yourself. But little do they know how much goes into making each of the apparel or accessories they wear. It is never known to a customer how much material, labour, energy & time goes into making one piece of clothing.

So today, we decided to demystify one of the most luxurious pieces of accessory, that the entire world has been swooning over for centuries together. Cashmere - Scarves & Wraps

Winter is upon us. It means we would need something to keep warm but keep the style statement all graceful and timeless. Hence we choose Cashmere which has all the qualities of being a woman's best friend, just not in the hot season. But why choose Cashmere, when there are so many types of wool. We have answers, which will make you an ardent fan of this fine, exceptionally warm, and graceful variety of goat wool.

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere - there is a luxury in the name itself. And why shouldn't it be? The feel of a Cashmere wrap, the gentle caress, the cozy warmth, and the way it upgrades even the most basic of clothing to a more royal one, is just amazing

Cashmere is a variety of wool that is obtained from Pashmina goats found in Ladakh. The fine wool is obtained from the goats and used to make luxury textiles for centuries now. The best and the most famous use of Cashmere is the making of the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl. It crossed all boundaries of the world to be owned by royal families in Europe, Asia, Australia, and America. The reason was the softness, smoothness, and finesse of the Cashmere fibre, which was 1/4th of the human hair in diameter. It began to be used as shawls, apparel, and upholstery items for the royals and their courts.

Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere comes from China and Mongolia. 90% of the world's total Cashmere production comes from these two places. Other than these, Cashmere is found in Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey and Ladakh. Ladakhi Cashmere is considered the best quality, and the finest Cashmere in the world.

Ladakhi Cashmere

The Changthang region is situated 15000 feet above sea level in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. It stretches across 1600 kilometres from the west to the east, and just one-third of it lies in India. At times, the area freezes at -40 degrees and thus remains cut off from the entire world, for even 9 months. Yet, facing such difficulties and hardships, the native Changpa tribe masters the art of surviving here with their heritage lifestyle

Cashmere comes from goats. These exotic cashmere goats belong to a Buddhist tribe of Ladakh, called the Changpa tribe. The main occupation of the Changpa tribe is rearing a small herd of the Capra Hircus goats. And they have been doing so for 500 years. This nomadic tribe takes care of their goats in the best way. It rears them not only for their milk and meat but especially for their wool. 

Life in this part of the world is the least complicated. However, trends change in the rest of the world is the least concern for them. And this has been their situation for 400 years now.  The Changpa tribe has always remained clung to their own lifestyle, religion, and beliefs. 

How is Cashmere obtained?

Cashmere wool is collected during mid-spring when goats tend to shed it naturally. It starts from March end to May. During this time, hormonal changes in the animal force it to shed the wool. The goat rubs itself with rough surfaces to get rid of some portion of this warm fleece. The animal is ethically treated and wool is combed off its body with specialized tools and combs by professionals. When the entire wool is collected, it is sorted as per finesse. This fleece called ‘Asli Tus’ locally is collected manually and sold to the sellers who process it further

This raw Pashm is 6 times finer than human hair, with an average fibre length of 40 mm & a diameter under 14 microns. Even after being so fine and delicate, Cashmere is considered the warmest natural fibre. Hence it is used to make the cosiest Cashmere wraps, scarves, and stoles

Even if the demand for Kashmiri Cashmere wraps and Cashmere scarves is increasing day by day all over the world, the quality has never compromised. The fibre acquired from Ladakh is pure like always and obtained from the same Changthangi goat. It has been considered superior to Cashmere from other parts of the world like China, Nepal, India or Tibet, etc.

Cashmere In Kashmir

An ancient Sufi Saint - Shah E Hamdan was the first person to discover Cashmere fibre. He once decided to give Cashmere socks as a gift to the then King Zain ul Abideen. That is when Kashmir first experienced the warmth of this luxury fibre. 

After obtaining the raw wool from Changthang, it is sent to Kashmir. This is because the people of Ladakh do not have expertise in processing raw wool. Women from Kashmir clean, sort, spin and weave the raw wool into plain Cashmere wraps or Cashmere scarves. Later, if required, the wraps and scarves are sent for embroidery which is again done by Kashmiris.

How is Cashmere made? | The Processing

Hence we get to know that Cashmere goes through the following steps to get completed.

Lets us go through the processes one by one and learn how cashmere is made:

Pre Spinning Process

The changpa goat sheds its wool in Springtime as the weather becomes warmer and makes the goat uneasy. The wool is collected at the same time and thus the pre-spinning processes begin. One Changpa cashmere goat produces 80 to 450 grams of Cashmere per year. And it takes the wool of at least three goats to produce one Cashmere wrap

The next step is to comb the goats’ body carefully and free it of the wool which has by now become more of a burden for the goat. Even before the process of combing starts, this goat rubs itself against rough surfaces like large rocks, shrubs, tree stems and more, leaving a portion of this wool all over natural surfaces. The rest of the wool which is still on its body is carefully combed by professionals using professional tools and skill. They make sure the process is ethically carried out with high precision. 

The experts use specialized tools like a pin brush, a slicker brush, and a brush with natural bristles. They brush the backbone, across the ribs and the belly which loosens the wool naturally and separates from the goat's body. The expert moves from one area to the other carefully, taking his time. He completes combing a goat in not less than 30 minutes. The wool hence obtained is impure, full of dust and dirt, and in desperate need of cleaning and sorting. 

Dusting and Cleaning Cashmere

The process of dusting and cleaning begins. This process ensures that sand and dust totally separate from the wool. As much as 20% of Cashmere is lost in this process because the fibre is too fine to separate completely. Hence some portion is let go with impurities. Sometimes the impurities are too large to be sorted with hands. As such a metal comb uprighted over a wooden stand is used and the raw wool is run through this comb continuously till it appears clean.

After cleaning, the raw wool is sorted and dehaired. Sorting includes classifying the raw wool according to the quality and length of the fibre. Detailing includes separating the coarse guard hair from the actual pure fibre. Raw wool consists of 50% guard hair. It needs to be separated either manually by the womenfolk of Kashmir or by specialized machines.

Pure wool fibres are now mixed with natural glue to make it stronger and smoother. This process is called glueing. Pounded rice mixed with water is stored in a vessel & raw fibre is soaked into it for 2-3 days. On the third day, the fibre is taken out and cleaned again to remove rice particles. The resulting strong, clean and pure fibre is called Thumb (locally)

It is this Thumb that is handed over to spinners who spin it over a classic traditional Charkha called Yinder. 

Spinning

The spinning of the yarn is the most intricate and meticulous activity as far as the preparation of Cashmere is concerned. But since Kashmiri women have mastered this skill from times immemorial, it is an easy and everyday task for them that they enjoy doing. 

The spinning process starts with the Thumb which was the end result of the Pre Spinning process. Thumb is handed over to womenfolk of the valley who come from the remotest and underprivileged areas. The women master the skill of converting a Thumb to long and delicate Cashmere fibre.

Hand Spinning 

If a Cashmere wrap is to be handspun on a classic Yinder, then the Yinder is prepared beforehand. The Thumb (pure tuft of Cashmere wool) is held between two fingers and the thumb. The spinner turns the charkha wheel with her right hand and keeps moving the tuft of fibre upwards and downwards with the left hand in a balanced rhythm. If the movement of the charkha is not in rhythm with the movement of the hand, the fibre will break. Thus spinning a charkha is a skill in itself and needs precision and careful attention. 

The yarn thus obtained from the Yinder is the Cashmere fibre. It is fine, delicate, and warm. This yarn is spun wound around a grass straw. Later yarn from two such wounds is transferred over a wooden reeler for more strength (double the strength of a single yarn). At last, this double yarn is made into hanks over another wooden reeler and sent to weavers. Weavers open the hank to load it over handlooms.

Machine Spinning

Spinning Pashm can even be done with the help of a machine, which is a modern alternative to hand spinning. To increase the production of Cashmere wraps, Cashmere wool is sometimes spun over machines (semi-automated). Pure Cashmere wool is first mixed with nylon (or any fibre with great strength) to make it able to bear the harshness of a machine. Later, when the wrap is complete, it is treated with acid to remove the added component fibre. The wrap thus prepared is pure too, but it lacks the traditional charm of handmade Cashmere. It is the handspun wraps that are often preferred over machine-spun pieces because they are more soft and lustrous. But handspun shawls take time to get manufactured because spinning a shawl itself takes months together.

It takes around 30 days to spin 100 grams of the pashmina yarn on Yinder, working for 7 hours a day. Hence it is now a days preferred to spin a shawl with the help of a machine and then weave it by hand. 

Weaving

As soon as the weavers get spun yarn from spinners, they begin the pre loom processes. Weavers get the yarn in the shape of hanks, thus the first activity that weavers perform is opening these hanks. The yarn is stretched over a thanjoor which is a large wooden stand consisting of two vertically standing iron rods. When it is stretched enough, then it is wound over a precz (wooden spindle) to be taken outdoors for Yarun. But before the process of Yarun, if the yarn needs to be dyed, it is dyed first. Natural dyes are used to dye Cashmere as it can't bear the harshness of chemical dyes. 

Yarun: Two wooden spindles are taken outdoors and wound around 4-6 wooden rods, dug into the ground vertically. Two men walk back and forth around these rods and continuously keep winding the yarn on the spindles around these erected rods. More than a thousand threads are wound around these rods. This process is considered crucial and labour intensive.

The Loom

From the iron rods, the yarn is removed after it is perfectly stretched. It is handed over to a professional warp dresser who fixes these yarns as warps in a loom. The process is not an easy one. It is believed to take more than 6 days to fix each warp into the heddles of the loom

The traditional Kashmiri loom is made of wood. It comes with a small bench enough for just two people to sit. The yarn has already been fixed into the loom as per the weave of the wrap that they have to start making. The process starts by the two men assisting each other. As one passes the yarn from behind, the other one pulls it through the loop. A 10% wastage during the weaving of Cashmere wraps is normal. It takes an average of around 4-5 days to weave a plain Cashmere wrap. 

The result of weaving Cashmere is a plain fabric called thaan. From this thaan, wraps of different sizes are cut out as and when required.

Finishing And Embroidery

The thaan is still incomplete and imperfections like superfluous threads, attached material and the like are to be removed before selling. It is then handed over to purzgar who carefully tweezes, clips or removes any waste or foreign material attached to the surface. Thaan is fixed in a wooden frame tightly with two rollers above and below. The rollers move the fabric up and down, giving the expert a close look at the fabric so that the finishing becomes flawless. 

The thaan is rubbed with the rough core of a gourd, bitter gourd, or maize cob to make the surface smoother and free from foreign materials and impurities. 

Next, it is taken for washing to a professional Cashmere washer, who washes the thaan in running water (spring water is mostly used). He continuously keeps striking the fabric with large stones or cemented surfaces

For drying, the fabric is wrung in a specialized spinner or just left in the sun for days together. Natural drying is preferred for Pashmina. Later the fabric is sent for calendering where it gets mechanically stretched and ironed.

The Cashmere scarf, now ready can be dyed at this stage also. Then it can be sent for embroidery to come to a final piece which can be purchased by patrons of the art

Embroideries done on Cashmere

The most popular embroideries done on a Cashmere wrap are:

Sozni Kari is the art of hand embroidering a Cashmere wrap with fine and intricate threads. This embroidery can be done profusely as it is light and doesn't harm the delicate base at all. The embroiderer uses a fine needle and thread and works 7-8 hours a day to prepare a wrap. At times, it takes more than 4 years to complete one wrap if the embroidery is spread all over the base

Metallic threads are used in Tilla Dozi which are coated in real gold and silver to make breathtaking motifs over a Cashmere wrap. However, while doing this embroidery great care needs to be taken. That's because the thick threads can cause the base Cashmere fabric to get perforated. As such, Tilla dozi is usually done just over the borders. Tilla embroidered shawls are usually worn for weddings.

Papier Mache embroidery uses thicker and colourful satin threads with bolder strokes to mark protruding motifs over a wrap. The final product looks nothing less than a live painting

Also read: Wedding Cashmere

More Styles for Cashmere

Kalamkari Cashmere scarf is another form of wrap which uses vegetable dyes to paint large motifs over a Cashmere scarf with the help of a stylized brush. 

Kani Cashmere scarf uses colourful threads wound around wooden sticks as warps to create marvellous patterns all over the wrap. A Kani Cashmere scarf was the one which was introduced in Europe for the first time. It was when Napoleon gifted his wife one.

Reversible scarves use special techniques of weaving. As such the wrap obtained can be worn both from the front and back side. 

Modern styles in Cashmere

Since embroidery and heavy woven Cashmere wraps aren't a day to day accessory, designers have come up with modern ways to style traditional Cashmere scarves & wraps.

Printed Cashmere

Modish prints, monograms, graphical prints are some of the in-vogue embellishments that Cashmere has gotten into. These ices can be worn every day with casual outfits.

Patterned Cashmere

Stripes, checks, abstract patterns, and more make a Cashmere scarf look chic and more casual

Lace Cashmere

Laced cashmere scarf looks more formal for weekly or monthly events especially if it hosts a pastel shade

Ombre Cashmere

Scarves of this type are coloured ombre to match modern outfits. It gives wearers a chic and casual feel. 

What is a 100% Cashmere scarf?

When the popularity of Cashmere rose to its zenith in the 19th century, many fraudulent traders started making cheap copies. This led to a downfall in the making of pure Cashmere wraps as cheap copies were sold for less. Hence customers got lured to them.
100 Cashmere scarf would be such a scarf which is made from 100% Cashmere only. No foreign strengthening material would be used in it.
After the advent of power looms, Cashmere wool would be mixed with strengthening nylon or silk to make it eligible for the wear and tear of the machine. The scarves, hence, would be an amalgam of a number of materials and not pure. 100 Cashmere scarf is 100% pure Cashmere scarf, which is handmade and there is no interference of machine.

Is Cashmere from Kashmir?

Cashmere production is the largest in China, which is followed by Mongolia. But the quality of Cashmere coming from these areas is nowhere close to the Cashmere from Kashmir. Kashmiri Cashmere is rare, finest and hence expensive than the others. One Cashmere goat of Ladakh produced around 150 grams of Cashmere wool per year

Properties of Cashmere wool

One Cashmere goat produces just 150 grams of Cashmere per year. Hence it takes three to four Cashmere goats to produce one Pashmina shawl. The diameter of Cashmere yarn is just 12-16 microns which makes it the finest fibre after Shahtoosh (whose diameter used to be just 8-10 microns) which is banned today. Cashmere fleece grows on the sensitive areas of the Ladakhi goat as a down hair which protects it from -40 degrees temperature of the Changthang plateau.

History of Cashmere | Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere was first discovered by a Sufi saint Shah I Hamdan, who visited Kashmir with 700 craftsmen. He discovered the fine Cashmere in Ladakh and ordered socks made out of the same. He presented the socks to the then king of Kashmir, Zain ul Abideen who liked the socks so much that he ordered factories to be set up for processing Cashmere and making Pashmina shawls. Hence factories were set up and the 700 craftsmen who Shah I Hamdan had gotten from Persia with him, started training locals. The craftsmen trained locals in many local arts, the primary being Pashmina making. This helped Kashmiri economy grow and Pashmina shawls made Kashmir further famous all over the world.

Hence factories were set up and the 700 craftsmen who Shah I Hamdan had gotten from Persia with him, started training locals. The craftsmen trained locals in many local arts, the primary being Pashmina making. This helped the Kashmiri economy grow and Pashmina shawls made Kashmir further famous all over the world.

Soon Cashmere spread all over the world and became the most cherished wrap accessory in Europe. It was given as a gift by Napoleon to his wife Empress Josephine who later ordered several hundred of the same and set Pashmina shawls to timeless fashion. Pashmina shawls were given to rulers of neighbouring countries as a sign of peace or gifted to kings and queens of royal courts. Pashmina crossed all national and international boundaries and visitors used to visit Kashmir only to buy Pashmina shawls

Cashmere and Pashmina

The best use of Cashmere in the valley was done by making Shawls out of Cashmere wool which came to be known as Pashmina shawls. These Pashmina shawls were made in a number of varieties like plain shawls, embroidered shawls and Kani shawls of Kashmir. Hence Cashmere was the wool used to make the shawls and Pashmina came to known as the exquisite art of making shawls from Cashmere.

Cashmere vs Shahtoosh

• Cashmere is the down fibre of the Ladakhi Capra Hircus, also known as Pashmina goat, while as Shatoosh is the down fibre of the chiru goat or the Tibetan antelope.
• The goats are domestic while as the Chiru is wild
• Cashmere goats are ethically treated, but Chiru goats are hunted and killed for Shahtoosh wool
• Shahtoosh is banned and Cashmere is not
• Shahtoosh is finer than Cashmere. While Cashmere has a diameter of 12-16 microns, Shahtoosh has a diameter of just 8 microns.

Also read: What is so special about Pashmina shawls?

An epitome of luxury and style, the art of Pashmina has always been the centre of attention amongst women all over the world. Being the proud owner of a Pashmina scarf has always meant to experience royalty! And only women who have experienced this royalty can explain the beauty and high worth of a Pashmina scarf. And they have been doing so since times immemorial; explaining to the less aware the uniqueness and timelessness of this fine art. The delicate texture and cozy feel that a Pashmina scarf provides is simply beyond comparison. The know-how, experience, and expertise that the makers of Pashmina put into each piece that they create are noteworthy. And that has been the case since its inception in the 16th century.

Origins of Pashmina

Pashmina represents the art of transforming raw cashmere wool into luxurious shawls, scarves, and other garments. This exquisite fiber comes from the Changthangi goats, native to the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Himalayas. These goats grow a fine undercoat of cashmere wool as downfibre. Herders gently comb it off during the molting season to create the renowned Pashmina shawls or scarves.

The history of Pashmina spans centuries and has deep roots in the royal courts of Kashmir. Shah-i-Hamdan, a Persian Sufi saint who traveled to Kashmir in the 14th century, played a pivotal role in introducing the art of Pashmina weaving to the region. His admiration for the softness and warmth of the cashmere wool led him to order a pair of socks made from it. This order marked the beginning of a tradition that would elevate Pashmina to a symbol of luxury and fine craftsmanship.

Over the years, Kashmiri artisans honed their skills in spinning and weaving this delicate fiber. The process of creating Pashmina is both intricate and labor-intensive. Artisans meticulously comb the wool from the goat’s underbelly, spin it into fine threads, and weave it using traditional looms. Artisans perform each step by hand, ensuring that the final product maintains the highest quality. The result is a fabric famous for its incredible softness, lightweight nature, and warmth, making it highly coveted by royalty and the elite around the world.

From its origins in the remote and rugged landscapes of the Himalayas to becoming a cherished luxury item, the journey of Pashmina is a testament to its enduring appeal and the artistry involved in its creation.

History of Pashmina scarves

Even though the art of Pashmina making has existed for millennia, its discovery didn't take place until the late 15th century. The then king of Kashmir - Zain ul Abideen - was the one responsible for creating small manufacturing units. The story behind it is really interesting. Legend says that a Sufi saint by the name of Shah I Hamdan visited the valley from Persia. It was him who discovered raw Cashmere wool and ordered artisans to craft a pair of socks out of it for the king. The king was so impressed with the quality and finesse of Cashmere that he ordered processing units to be set up for manufacturing the same.

Shah I Hamdan had brought along with him 700 craftsmen from his hometown Persia and many other regions, who had expertise in a number of realms in handicrafts. They in turn trained the locals in the same. Some were carpet weavers, some were Papier Mache artists, some were copper and silver specialists, while some were experts in wood carving. But the ones who knew the art of Pashmina were the most famous, and the maximum number of Kashmiri trainees chose Pashmina art to follow. Artisans could now make Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, and stoles in an unparalleled manner, yet it would take days together to do so.

Pashmina in the Mughal Period

Later Pashmina art saw a blooming period in Mughal Emperor Akber's rule. Akber showed a keen interest in Pashmina. So, it was in his time when artisans introduced a number of new patterns and embroidery motifs into the art. Pashmina scarves became more beautiful and colourful when artisans embroidered them. Later Emperor Akbar as well as Emperor Jehangir mentioned Pashmina in their biographies, overwhelmed by the craft.

In the 18th century, Pashmina art reached Europe and became an accessory that every European cherished. French conqueror and monarch Napoleon is believed to have purchased Pashmina shawls on his way from a conquest, for his wife Empress Josephine. The empress loved the piece so much that she later owned a few hundred of the same. It was a Kani shawl.

Where is Cashmere found?

Many of us probably won't know, but Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury scarves from Cashmere wool. Cashmere wool grows as a downfibre on the exotic Ladakhi Pashmina goat which inhabits a region called Changthang. The area lies over 14,000 feet above sea level and witnesses a temperature of as low as -40°C (-40°F) in winter. It is the winter season when the goat grows an extremely soft and warm fleece over the most sensitive parts of its body like the underbelly and throat in order to survive. This is the reason they endure such harsh climatic conditions.

As soon as spring and early summer arrive, the goats become too uncomfortable and get rid of some portion of this wool by rubbing themselves against harsh surfaces like bushes, rough walls, and rocks. Local herders gather and keep safe the scattered wool. But even then, some portion of Cashmere wool is still left on the body of the goat. Professionals and herders together ethically remove this portion by using specialized combs, as soon as hot summer arrives. Hence, the wool is a kind of defense mechanism for the goat to survive in winters and a luxurious and comfortable accessory for us.

Also read: The trail of India's cashmere goat men

Processing of the wool

To make one shawl (100*200 cms), the raw wool from three or four goats is enough. One goat yields about 80 to 170 grams (3 to 6 ounces) of fiber. And while processing, much of even this small quantity is lost while cleaning, spinning, and weaving processes.

Herders pass the wool acquired as such to womenfolk of Kashmir. Women start by cleaning the raw wool which is full of dirt, dust, foreign materials, and thick guard hair, and needs to be freed from all foreign material. Women sit together in groups and start sorting and cleaning the hair. After cleaning, women send it to another group of women, who spin the wool into long yarns which are further processable.

Spinning the raw wool

Women artisans spin the wool on a wooden spinning wheel to convert it into long yarns. The wheel can produce yarn as fine as ones having 12-15 microns diameter. Weavers collect these delicate yarn threads and mount the long yarn onto wooden handlooms, traditional to the valley. It should be noted that this handloom is not the handloom that is generally used, but native to Kashmir. It has a wooden strructure and artisans perform most of the activities manually over it. A scarf has the standard size of 70* 200 cm (approx)

Weaving a Pashmina scarf

Two men sit at a time over a handloom and assist each other in weaving the entire piece. The workers are highly skilled weavers. They have experience of more than 30 or 40 years. At the end of three or four days, a plain Pashmina scarf is ready. Weavers send it for finishing touches like removal of extra fibres on the surface, trimming of edges, and embroidery.

A Pashmina scarf can be an embroidered one. Artisans embroider it in three different patterns - Tilla Dozi, Papier Mache embroidery, and Sozni embroidery. It is up to the customer what he or she requires. Embroidery artisans do all the embroideries manually, using fine threads and needles. Colourful and intricate motifs leave the shawl looking classic and vintage.

What is a Pashmina Scarf?

Although it is Pashmina shawls that are more renowned, Pashmina scarves too are in huge demand. But what is a Pashmina scarf? It all began with the luxury fabric being used in royal courts as decorative items. Then Pashmina was used as a gift to present to rulers as 'khilat' to improve political relations. Gradually, as Pashmina spread in the west, it took different sizes and patterns. Westerners did start with embroidered shawls and Kani shawls, but they switched to a certain scarf size because their culture didn't support shawls. Hence, a size of 70*200 cm was carved out of the cashmere fabric and introduced as a scarf.

Pashmina scarf in Modern Times

In the current times, Pashmina scarves are new modern accessories, which have been modernized to suit the new preferences. Instead of hand embroidery, new patterns like check and stripes, prints like animal and floral prints, and embellishments like laces and crystals have been bestowed upon these luxury pieces. Women now wear Pashmina scarves with western wear like jeans, skirts, and dresses. In fact, formal wear is even paired with nude shaded solid Pashmina scarves which give a sophisticated touch to the overall look.

The Purity of Pashmina Scarf | Sustainability

Even if Pashmina has managed to blend with modern preferences, it has lost the glory that it enjoyed once. While Pashmina scarves were only handmade, certain traders' greed compelled them to introduce mechanized Pashmina scarves, and hence ruin the trade altogether. To bear the strain of the machine, Cashmere yarn is mixed with nylon or any strengthening fibre. The scarf made in this manner doesn't remain pure. Pashmina art is a sustainable one and patronizes slow fashion since its conception. There is the least wastage, and the scarf remains with the owner for a long time only when it is pure. Pure Pashmina is believed to stay fresh for more than 20 years. The industry has survived small enterprises locally and still continues to do so.

Patterns in Pashmina scarves

Solid Pashmina scarves

Solid scarves are kept plain, without any embellishments. Soon after hand-weaving them, solid Pashmina scarves are dyed, washed, dried, and ironed. Such scarves are ideal for formal and semi-formal outfits.

Printed and Patterned Pashmina scarves

Printed scarves feature modern prints like floral prints, animal prints, or abstract prints. Patterned Pashmina scarves are patterned with checks, tartans, stripes, or ancient Mughal architecture-inspired patterns. These types of scarves are ideal for casual get-togethers with friends or weekend brunches with family

Reversible Pashmina scarves

Reversible Pashmina scarves are a marvel, in the sense that they feature a unique type of weave. The scarves are woven such that the front and the backside are a mirror image of each other, and the scarf looks ravishing from both sides.

Swarovski and Lace Pashmina scarves

Semi-formal events demand something formal as well as chic. For such occasions, Pashmina scarves have been embellished with Swarovski crystals or French laces for a dainty look for semi-formal events. These types of scarves can be gifted to a bride-to-be, and she can drape them on after wedding events.

Kani Pashmina scarves

Heavy Kani scarves are a bit on the expensive side of the price scale. Kani work is really meticulous and takes even years to complete. Hence, these are draped on weddings and special events where ardent patrons of handicrafts are expected to gather

Hand Embroidered Pashmina scarves

Handmade and hand-embroidered scarves are luxury gifting pieces. People have used them as royal gifts for centuries in Kashmir. And even now in Kashmir, a mother gifts her daughter a pure Pashmina, as an important part of her wedding trousseau. There are a number of embroideries that artisans do on Pashmina scarves. A few of them are:

Sozni Embroidery

Sozni embroidery is thread embroidery that artisans do by hand. It includes fine threads and needles with which highly experienced embroidery artisans create intricate motifs for days together. A fully hand embroidered scarf often takes years together to complete. Sozni scarves are ideal for everyday use, or fully embroidered ones might help with special occasions.

Papier Mache Embroidery

Papier Mache embroidery uses brighter and thicker threads than those used in Sozni embroidery. Usually, artisans use silk threads with bright colours. As such, this embroidery gives a deeper effect and the motifs thus created look more protruding and attractive. Papier Mache embroidery is usually thick and deep shaded, hence women often wrap Papier Mache scarves on festive occasions or weddings. Those with Jamawar embroidery patterns spread all over the base are kept safe for brides. Brides wear Jamawar shawls as they bid goodbye to their home place.

Tilla Embroidery

Tilla embroidery, in ancient times, was so expensive that only royalty could afford it. This was because it used real gold and silver threads to create motifs over the base. But nowadays Tilla uses threads of metal dipped in gold or silver. This embroidery makes the stole look straight out of a royal wardrobe. Tilla embroidered shawls and scarves are mostly for weddings and bridal purposes. Some also give these as gifts to those valued the most.

Why Pashmina Scarves have High Valued

Pashmina scarves are famous for their unparalleled luxury and exquisite craftsmanship, making them highly sought-after accessories. But what is a Pashmina scarf that makes it so valuable?

Firstly, the intrinsic quality of the material plays a crucial role. Pashmina comes from the soft undercoat of Changthangi goats, found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh. This cashmere wool is incredibly fine and soft, offering a warmth that surpasses regular wool while remaining lightweight. The unique properties of Pashmina wool contribute significantly to the scarf’s exceptional comfort and elegance.

The craftsmanship involved in creating Pashmina scarves adds to their value. The process is meticulous and labor-intensive, with artisans hand-combing the wool, spinning it into fine threads, and weaving it on traditional looms. Each scarf undergoes an intricate process of hand-weaving and sometimes embellishment with detailed embroidery. This craftsmanship ensures that every Pashmina scarf is not only a piece of clothing but also a work of art.

Additionally, Pashmina scarves have a rich cultural heritage, which enhances their desirability. Originating from the royal courts of Kashmir, Pashmina associates with luxury and sophistication for centuries. The historical significance and the tradition of its production elevate its status as a high-value item.

Finally, the versatility and timeless appeal of Pashmina scarves make them a desirable addition to any wardrobe. One can style them in numerous ways, making them suitable for both casual and formal occasions. This adaptability, combined with their inherent beauty and comfort, ensures that Pashmina scarves remain a cherished and valuable accessory.

In summary, the value of a Pashmina scarf lies in its exceptional material quality, intricate craftsmanship, rich cultural heritage, and versatile styling options. Understanding "What is a Pashmina scarf" highlights why people around the world highly value them.

Caring for Your Pashmina Scarf: Tips for Longevity

To maintain the beauty and longevity of your Pashmina scarf, follow these essential care tips.

1. Hand Wash Gently
Always hand wash your Pashmina scarf in cold water using a mild detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Avoid hot water as it can shrink the fibers. Gently agitate the water and let the scarf soak for about 10-15 minutes. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric, which can damage its texture.

2. Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse the scarf in cold water until all soap residues are gone. Gently press the water out without wringing.

3. Dry Carefully
Lay the scarf flat on a clean, dry towel to air dry. Reshape it gently to its original form. Avoid hanging the scarf or exposing it to direct sunlight, as this can cause stretching and fading. Do not use a tumble dryer, as the heat can damage the delicate fibers.

4. Store Properly
Store your Pashmina scarf in a cool, dry place. Keep it in a breathable garment bag or a cotton pillowcase to protect it from dust and moisture. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight or in a damp environment.

5. Avoid Frequent Washing
Pashmina scarves do not need frequent washing. Instead, air them out after wearing to refresh the fabric. For minor stains, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild detergent.

By following these care tips, you ensure that your Pashmina scarf remains in excellent condition, retaining its luxurious feel and timeless elegance for years to come.

Conclusion

To have a pure Pashmina scarf is always better than having the one whose purity you doubt. Always choose a trustworthy seller when you buy a Pashmina. When you buy an authentic piece, it is thousands of local underprivileged Kashmiri artisans whose efforts you are supporting and whose art you are encouraging. Besides an authentic Pashmina will carry an unmatched grace and keep you ever stylish and comfortable for years to come.

The Pashmina shawl is one of the most sought-after wraps around the globe. Makers have fashioned Pashmina shawls through a lengthy and labour-intensive process. Herders ethically acquire fine Cashmere wool from a Himalayan goat and artisans process it for years to furnish the world-famous Kashmiri Pashmina. It is not only the process that makes it special but a number of other things too. These features make it popular amongst known celebrities and it has been so since the 15th century

What is Pashmina?

To know what is so special about Pashmina shawls, we need to know what Pashmina is. Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury apparel and accessories from the downy undercoat of the Himalayan goat. The goat dwells in the Changthang area of Ladakh - India.

This region over 14000 feet above sea level is home to a community of herders. The Changpa tribe has been occupying the region for decades now. It is they who rear an exotic species of goats - known as Changthangi goats. And it is them who take us to the first milestone in Pashmina making, i.e., collecting wool from the goat.

Also read: The Trail of India's Cashmere Goat Men

Making of Pashmina

When it comes to surviving in the Changthang region, the weather, temperatures, and life are all quite challenging if not impossible. Already, the place cuts itself off from the rest of the world during snowfall in winter, and the temperature too is severe and troubling. In winter, Changthang experiences a temperature dip of -40 degrees Celsius making life an uphill climb. And it seems that no sign of life would be possible in such conditions, but there is. The Changpa tribe and their goats do manage to survive even in such grim circumstances. How the people manage life here is indeed difficult to perceive, but how the goat survives is even more fascinating.

To survive a temperature of -40 degrees, nature has bestowed the Changthangi goat with fine Cashmere wool which grows over its underbelly neck and some sensitive areas of its body. The wool is delicate, fine, and exceptionally warm. This wool acts as an insulator and keeps the goat warm and active. Even though the diameter of this fine wool is just 12-16 microns, its warmth is such that never has an animal died due to cold, as long there was Cashmere over its body!

Collecting Cashmere wool

In winters the same wool which helped the goat survive, makes it uneasy as soon as summer arrives. And why shouldn't it? After all, wool has extraordinary warmth and comfort. Feeling the same, the goat rubs itself against surrounding rough areas leaving some portion of the wool helter-skelter. Herders watch this agony and seek professional help to gently comb off the rest of the wool from the goat's body. Professionals arrive and use specialized tools, combs, and blades. This process takes a long time, as the professionals have to make sure that the animals aren't harmed a bit.

People often ask "Why are Pashmina shawls famous in Ladakh". Well firstly, Pashmina shawls are more famous all over the world than they are in Ladakh, the reason being affordability. Secondly, there are many women and men who love to wear Pashmina in Ladakh too due to its insulating and warming properties. Nothing is as warm, lightweight, and comfortable in winter as Pashmina shawls are. Hence be it Ladakh or any part of the world, Pashmina receives admiration in winter, as well as in fall or Spring.

Also read: 5 must-have Kashmiri Shawls for all times

Processing in Kashmir

People often ask, "What is so special about Pashmina". And we believe it is the entire journey from start to end that makes it special.

As soon as herders collect the wool, the animal is free but the wool is in a lump. To make it processable, herders clean it and send it to Kashmir. Kashmir is the place where masterly skillful artisans are able to process Cashmere manually. On its arrival in the valley, workers again clean Pashmina and later sort it and that's how the entire process begins. After cleaning and sorting, workers hand it over to womenfolk of the valley who spin it over a wooden spinning wheel. This step is crucial, as the gentle cashmere wool is easily breakable even by manual stress. Women, by a regular motion of hands and the wheel, make it possible to convert the lump of wool into fine threads, sometimes barely visible. Women assemble these fine threads for many days till a sufficient quantity is flocked together. Now is the time for weaving.

Weavers are usually men. As the Cashmere fibre reaches their handloom units, they sit in combinations of two or three and start weaving the fibre into the fabric. After an arduous process of 4-5 days, a luxurious and exquisite Pashmina shawl is contrived, still in its basic form.

Further processing

From the handloom unit, the shawls pass on to washers, who wash it on river banks. Then to dyers, who colour it as per the customers' preferences, and then again wash it. Later the shawl travels to embroiderers, who make simple solid shawl masterpieces. Hand embroidering each shawl might take several years depending upon the design. Artisans now work on Sozni embroidery and Papier Mache embroideries on Pashmina using fine threads and needles to cover the base in intricate designs. Tilla Dozi on the other hand uses metallic threads dipped in gold and silver to cover the base in shimmery classic motifs

Other than embroidery, a shawl can be patterned, printed, ombre dyed, or woven in Kani style. Being feathery light and unusually warm, the shawl looks as beautiful as it is comfortable. Not only shawls but huge demand from all over the world has led artisans to convert Cashmere wool into scarves, stoles, hijabs, handkerchiefs, sweaters, robes, and many more apparel and accessories. 

Pashmina runs in families

Pashmina has been special since it was discovered in the 15th century by Syed Ali Hamdani, who was a Persian saint and had come to visit Kashmir. Along with 700 craftsmen, he was responsible for training locals in handicrafts, one amongst which was Pashmina making. This was the art that was chosen by the most number of people, as it was preferred by royals of that time. Royal courts would have furnishing made in Cashmere. Pashmina was revered by Kashmiris and Kashmiri artisans were respected all over the world. They were the most well-known people of their time. 

Pashmina was back then a family affair. While some women would clean or spin Cashmere, men of the family would weave and embroidered shawls. Hence a Pashmina shawl would be a brand belonging to one or the other family. At a certain time, when the economy fell, women would sell pieces of their Pashmina to make some money. Hence Pashmina has an emotional connection with the people of the valley, and it is such that even after the industry is on the verge of extinction, it is these 70 and 80-year-olds, who haven't let go of it.

Also read: Kashmiri artisans - Hands behind the craft

What is so special about Pashmina Shawls?

Pashmina shawls, often regarded as the epitome of luxury and elegance, hold a special place in the world of fashion and textiles. These exquisite shawls are cherished for their unparalleled softness, lightweight warmth, and timeless appeal. In this section, we'll uncover what is so special about Pashmina shawls and why they are prized by connoisseurs worldwide.

Origin and Heritage

Pashmina shawls have their origins in the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas, particularly in countries like Nepal, India, and Tibet. They are crafted from the wool of the Changthangi goat, also known as the Pashmina goat, which is native to these harsh and remote terrains. The word "Pashmina" is derived from the Persian word "pashm," which means wool, and it reflects the Persian influence on the trade of these shawls centuries ago.

Exceptional Softness

What is so special about Pashmina shawls is their exceptional softness. This unparalleled softness is attributed to the fineness of the Cashmere wool fibres, which are incredibly thin, measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter. To put it into perspective, these fibres are much finer than a human hair.

The fine diameter of Cashmere fibres allows them to be woven into exceptionally lightweight and soft fabrics. When you touch a Pashmina shawl, you experience a level of softness that is hard to replicate with other materials. The luxurious sensation of draping a Pashmina shawl around your shoulders is akin to being enveloped in a cloud of warmth and comfort.

Warmth Without Bulk

Despite their lightweight nature, Pashmina shawls are renowned for their remarkable warmth. The fine Pashmina fibers have natural insulating properties that trap warm air close to the body, providing an incredible level of warmth without the bulk that often comes with other winter accessories.

This unique combination of softness and warmth makes Pashmina shawls the perfect choice for staying cozy in colder weather without feeling weighed down by heavy layers. They offer a comfortable and elegant solution for warding off winter's chill. As such when patrons ask us "What is so special about Pashmina shawls?", we recommend they wear them once to feel the luxury.

Versatility in Styling

Pashmina shawls are incredibly versatile when it comes to styling. Their generous size allows for a myriad of ways to wear them. You can drape a Pashmina shawl over your shoulders for an elegant and classic look or wrap it around your neck as a scarf for added warmth. The fine fabric drapes beautifully and adds a touch of sophistication to any outfit.

These shawls are equally at home with casual attire or formal wear. Whether you're wearing jeans and a t-shirt or a cocktail dress, a Pashmina shawl can effortlessly elevate your style. The versatility of Pashmina shawls makes them suitable for various occasions, from everyday wear to special events. This versatility answers the question "What is so special about Pashmina shawls?"

Also read: HOW TO WRAP A PASHMINA SHAWL AROUND THE SHOULDER?

A Wide Spectrum of Colours and Designs

Pashmina shawls come in a vast array of colours and designs, ranging from solid, classic shades to intricate patterns. This diversity allows you to find a Pashmina shawl that suits your personal style and complements your wardrobe.

Some Pashmina shawls feature intricate embroidery or hand-painted designs, adding a touch of artistry and craftsmanship to the already luxurious fabric. These details can make each Pashmina shawl a unique work of art.

Cultural Significance

What is so special about Pashmina shawls is their deep cultural and historical significance, particularly in the regions where they are produced. In Kashmir, India, for example, Pashmina weaving has been a traditional craft for generations. The art of crafting these shawls has been passed down through families, and it plays a vital role in the local economy.

Pashmina shawls have also been favored by royalty and dignitaries throughout history. They have been exchanged as gifts between leaders and have been worn as a symbol of prestige and honour.

Artisanal Craftsmanship

The creation of Pashmina shawls involves a labour-intensive and meticulous process. From collecting the wool during the molting season of Pashmina goats to sorting, cleaning, spinning, and weaving, each step is performed with great care and skill by skilled artisans. This feature is so special about Pashmina shawls.

The handcrafted nature of Pashmina shawls adds to their allure. It reflects the dedication and craftsmanship of the artisans who bring these luxurious creations to life.

Investment in Quality

Pashmina shawls are often considered an investment in quality and elegance. While they may come with a higher price tag compared to mass-produced accessories, their durability and timeless appeal make them a valuable addition to your wardrobe.

With proper care, a well-made Pashmina shawl can last for many years, and its classic design ensures that it won't go out of style. This longevity makes Pashmina shawls a sustainable and eco-friendly choice compared to fast fashion trends.

Also read: HOW TO PROPERLY CARE FOR YOUR PASHMINA?

Ethical Considerations

In recent years, there has been an increased focus on ethical and sustainable practices in the production of Pashmina shawls. Concerns about the treatment of Pashmina goats and the environmental impact of overgrazing have led to efforts to promote responsible and sustainable Pashmina production.

Many ethical brands and organizations are working to ensure fair wages for artisans, humane treatment of animals, and conservation efforts in the regions where Pashmina is produced. When purchasing Pashmina shawls, consumers can choose to support these ethical practices. What makes Pashmina shawls so special is the fact that these are easy to produce ethically, as long as manufacturers and sellers remain honest.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Pashmina shawls are special for a multitude of reasons. Their exceptional softness, lightweight warmth, and versatility in styling make them a luxurious and practical addition to any wardrobe. Their rich cultural heritage, artisanal craftsmanship, and timeless appeal add an extra layer of significance to these exquisite accessories.

Pashmina shawls are not just fashion items; they are symbols of elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural heritage. Investing in a Pashmina shawl is not only an investment in quality but also a connection to the traditions and artistry of the Himalayan regions where they originate.

Also read: TURNING THE WAYS FOR THE PLEDGE OF FINEST CASHMERE

Pashmina shawls are considered one of the best and warmest wrap accessories all over the world. These monarchically graceful beauties have a history of being cherished by royals all over the world. From locally reigning Mughal rulers to European and Asian kings and queens, Pashmina has had the privilege to reach every nook and corner around the globe, and fascinate avid admirers of handmade art and craft. But what is a Pashmina shawl? In fact, what is Pashmina? Let us find out and debunk the conundrum surrounding it.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of producing fine fabric from raw Cashmere wool. In fact, it is raw Cashmere which is processed, spun, woven, and formed into Pashmina shawls, stoles, or scarves. Hence Pashmina shawls are those shawls that have been prepared handweaving fine Cashmere. 

Origin

Cashmere fleece is found in Ladakh, where the Changthangi goat resides. The area has harsh climatic conditions and the temperature in winter dips as low as -40 degrees. To protect the Changthangi goat from such conditions, nature has bestowed the Cashmere wool which grows on its underbelly and neck and keeps it warm in the harshest of weathers.

However, as soon as summer arrives, the goat becomes uncomfortable as the wool is exceptionally warm. The goat rubs itself against rough surfaces like shrubs, rocks, and walls to get rid of this wool. Then, herders professionally collect this wool by combing it off the body of these goats. This raw wool is Cashmere (locally called Pashm). It is later collected and sent to Kashmir, where the rest of the processing takes place. The goat is now free and at ease, and starts running around again.

Processing

As soon as the raw wool arrives in Kashmir, it is handed over to womenfolk who sit in groups and start with the cleaning of raw fibre. Raw fibre is full of dirt, dust, and foreign material which gets attached to the animal as it moves around. This wool is cleaned and sorted and prepared for spinning. Pre preparation includes placing the fibre ina container filled with powdered rice which makes it even, smoother, and a bit strong so as not to break easily.

Next, womenfolk from all parts of the valley come together and begin the process of spinning. This is done by fitting the raw wool in a wooden spinning wheel locally known as "Yinder". Spinning the wool transforms the raw wool lump into long threads or yarn. The yarn is so fine; its diameter is 12-16 microns only. Cashmere yarn is sometimes not visible to the naked eye at the first look. It is merely the skill of these women, who process it and convert a delicate lump to even more delicate threads

Weaving Fine Cashmere

Now, the yarn is then handed over to weavers. Weavers are usually men, who sit two at a time on a wooden handloom which is native to Kashmir. Then, men mount the fine yarn on the handloom and begin weaving into fabric. This fabric can be made into a shawl, wrap, scarf, or handkerchief even. This is how Pashmina shawls are made. 

Later shawls can be even embroidered based on the choice made by customers. The embroidery done on Pashmina shawls has to be done by hand. This is because the underlying fabric is so delicate and gentle that if embroidery is done by machine, it might be abrasive for the shawl.

History

Pashmina hasn't been loved and cherished by our parents or grandparents. Rather, Pashmina is the art that has been most sought after since the 16th century. It all started when a Sufi saint Syed Ali Hamdani came for a visit to Kashmir valley and discovered Pashmina. He ordered Pashmina socks be made for the then king, who was highly impressed, and ordered several units to be set up at homes of artisans. 

Be it the Mughal rulers of India, the Kashmiri King Zain Ul Abideen, Empress Josephine, Napoleon, Kings, and queens of Persia, and many more royal rulers of the largest dynasties, Pashmina is such an art that had everyone swooned. Kings of Persia used to give Pashmina shawl to rulers of other countries as 'khilat'. This custom influenced others and later, nobles made it a habit to gift Pashmina shawls to each other, thereby improving relations with neighbouring countries and guests. 

Also read: 500 Years of Timeless Pashmina

Pashmina today

Pashmina has recently started to gain impetus in modern times with contemporary patterns introducing themselves into this ancient art. Now Pashminas aren't only embroidered but printed, patterned in stripes and checks, laced and adorned with styles which are relevant today.

Hence Pashmina has become the first choice of young women and even teen girls today, contrary to the idea that Pashmina is primitive. It is a timeless accessory that shows us how beautiful and elegant our culture has been. Now women and even girls have apprehended the versatility of Pashmina, and the way that it can be worn on almost all occasions

Fake Pashminas

One of the main issues with Pashmina remains that of purity. As several traders and manufacturers introduced machines in the trade, pure pashmina makers suffered huge losses, and craft nearly reached its decay. Pashmina is an investment of a lifetime. Therefore much care should be taken while buying a Pashmina shawl. 

A pure Pashmina will either have a GI stamp on one of its corners or a pure Pashmina seller will be able to produce a certificate of purity from the Crafts Development Institute (CDI) of Kashmir. If that doesn't happen, the shawl might not be made from pure Cashmere

There are a number of tests that can be done at home for the shawl that you already have in possession. Everyone who owns a piece should do those tests and check if their Pashmina is pure or fake.

Explore Pashm's luxury collection of Pure Pashmina HERE..

Kashmir is a place that is abundant in handicrafts and rich in the most artistic forms of utility products. And the best feature of all the crafty products is the fact that all of them are world famous. Be it the rich carpets of Kashmir, hand chiselled copper making, walnut wood vintage pieces, embroidery rich fabrics or others, the crafts have been revered by individuals across the globe. But, from amongst all the rich and famous handcrafted products of Kashmir, Pashmina shawls might be vanquishers. The art of Pashmina has defeated every other similar art; Pashmina shawls from Kashmir aren't the uncrowned kings, but fairly deserving champions. 

Since their inception in the 15th century, Pashmina shawls have been considered treasures. Women all over the world have been fascinated by the mere looks of this art form. For this reason, Europeans used to travel all the way to the valley to have a first hand experience of Pashmina shawls. They were ones who spread their positive experience to the entire world. Women from their royal courts ordered Pashmina shawls from Kashmir and owned hundreds of the same. Queens, Empresses and others from royal courts used to be gifted by their men with Pashmina shawls, as this was considered as the finest and the most luxurious gift they could get. 

Europeans introduced the material used to make Pashmina shawls in their countries, where it came to be known as Cashmere. Pashmina shawls were called Cashmere shawls or Cashmere wraps in European countries. These were so much in demand that a large number of producers started producing their own Cashmere wraps. But these were never able to compete with the original wraps of the valley. 

Artisans of the Art

Pashmina shawl makers were one of the most admired and honoured communities in the 18th century. These were the masters of the art, who transformed raw Cashmere wool to luxury shawls and scarves. Shawl makers were considered the most talented and skilled men and women; they were continuously invited by European countries to train their labour. As such, artisans are believed to have travelled to the farthest of countries in order to teach the skill of weaving and embroidery to foreign artisans.

Pashmina art was so loved and famed that an entire generation of young men during the 15th to 18th century learnt the art of Pashmina shawl making. The children of craftsmen left studies to join their fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers. They would assisst in weaving, spinning or embroidery of Pashmina shawls. This art form was their main source of income as well as their hobby. The work never disinterested or fatigued them, although it was one of the most meticulous and intricate work which needed patience and immense skill. 

Till now, the art of Pashmina making is significantly valued all over the world. But there is an unsettling debate about the terms related to Pashmina. A question arises about the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina. While some argue both the terms have the same meaning, others comment that Cashmere is a type of Pashmina or vice versa. After a deep discussion and research on the same, we came to a final conclusion about the terms and their origin. But before that, it is essential to know the history of the terms and how each came into existence. 

History of Pashmina

Kashmiri shawls have always been world-famous, right from the Indus valley civilization. But in its native place, Kashmir, it was a Persian Sufi saint by the name of Mir Syed Ali Hamdani, who discovered Pashmina in Ladakh. This was around the 15th century, when Shah E Hamdan (he was popularly called so amongst the masses) visited the valley for a trip. It was him, who for the first time discovered a fine and soft wool; this was growing as a downfibre on a Ladakhi goat.

Shah E Hamdan realised that such fine quality wool should not get wasted. Hence he immediately contacted the herders of this goat. He ordered them to get a pair of socks handcrafted from this fine wool. When the pair of socks was complete, it was presented as a gift to the then king of Kashmir - King Zain ul Abideen. The king was immensely impressed. He ordered the setting up of processing units in Kashmir. In these mini-factories, the fine wool would be processed into luxury shawls, scarves, socks, apparel, stoles and furnishing accessories. 

Since Shah E Hamdan had come from Persia, he named this fine wool ‘Pashm’. Pashm translates to ‘soft gold’ in Persian language, and that is how the quality of the wool was considered by him. The shawls crafted from Pashm came to be known as Pashmina shawls. Similarly scarves became Pashmina scarves and stoles became Pashmina stoles. Locals called the fine wool Pashm, and the finished product as Pashmina. This went on for long, until the Europeans experienced the lavishness of the wool. 

Origins of Pashm:

Pashmina shawls were highly honoured for a large number of reasons. Firstly, that their discovery was made by someone who was considered as a Messiah amongst the locals. And second, Pashmina shawl spinning, weaving and embroidery became the primary source of income for the locals. While women of the household would largely be the spinners of raw Pashm that came from Ladakh, men of the household took the responsibility of weaving the same. Hence women collected Pashm from those who acquired it from Ladakh, and handspun it over a wooden charkha/spinning wheel.

With the perfect movements of their hands and fingers, these exceptionally skilled women would transform Pashm to fine yarn. Yarn would then be taken over by men. Women cleaned, sorted and spun the Pashm, while men stretched and wove it to fine shawls, scarves and more. This was the end result of the fine Pashm procured from the hilly areas of Ladakh, which in itself would be a painstaking task. 

Patronage by Mughals:

Mughals had especially a keen interest in Pashmina shawl manufacturing and improving the industry as a whole. It was during the Mughal era that embroidery was introduced in Pashmina shawls. As a matter of fact, the influence of Mughals is still visible in motifs embroidered on these shawls. Some motifs have been named after Mughal influence such as Shah Pasand (choice of the king), and Buta Muhammed Shah (Muhammed Shah’s flower). These are both named after Mughal emperors. 

Under the aegis of King Akbar, Pashmina shawls reached their zenith. Abul Fazl writes in Ain E Akbari (biography of Akbar) that the king encouraged every way to improve the manufacture of shawls in Kashmir. It is even believed that King Akbar termed a new term for the Pashmina shawl - Parm Narm - which translates to exceptionally soft. And it was him who for the first time ordered dyeing of shawls, instead of leaving them in their natural shades only. It is even believed the Doshala shawls were invented by Akbar in his rule. 

Emperor Jehangir is said to have followed the tradition of upkeeping the Pashmina industry. Infact, in his autobiography described Pashmina as his favourite art form. During his reign, dealers would bring large quantities of raw Pashm from Ladakh and get it processed in Kashmir. It was in this period that around 13 square feet of Pashmina could be twisted and passed through a finger ring. 

Other than patronising it, Mughal emperors even used Pashmina fabric in their courts. They would wear Pashmina shawls, as well as use the fabric to decorate their courts. This was particularly for the Tilla embroidered Shawls, whose sheen multiplied the grace of the Mughal courts.

Pashmina Shawls and Europe:

In the second half of the 18th century, a new fashion rose to new heights in Europe. It was an exceptionally soft, fine and warm wool type which was so intricate that the European royalty fell in love with it. The Europeans had not encountered anything so luxurious and heavenly before. These were Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, the opulent wraps that were newly introduced in Europe. Very soon, these became a status symbol, especially after patronage by Empress Josephine and later by Queen Victoria.

By the end of the 19th century, these luxury products were regularly traded between Kashmir and Europe. Europeans were so much fascinated by Pashmina shawls, that some local producers started making copies of the shawl, but clearly their production never matched the original products. Queens, Empresses and Princesses ordered hundreds of Pashmina shawls from Kashmir, as the expensive tags attached to the shawls never bothered them. Infact, the kings of Europe were inspired by Mughal rulers who gave Pashmina shawls as ‘Khilat’ to friendly nation heads. Khilat would mean submission by the receiving party.

Kani shawl, made in Kashmiri Pashmina were the ones which gained the most popularity. These were produced in a small village of Kashmir (called Kanihama), and were the ones which were discovered by Napoleon on his Egypt trip. The Emperor gifted the same to his beloved wife - Empress Josephine. The empress luckily happened to be the style icon of the century. As she patronised Kani shawls of Kashmir, commoners too got swooned by the same. Soon the popularity of Kani shawls reached its zenith, and many hundred Kani shawls were ordered from Kashmir by European nobles as well as the less affluent. 

The very popular Paisley Motif

The Buta motif was known in Europe as the Paisley. This was one of the most well known and widely recognized motifs in the 18th century. Buta was a teardrop shaped motif, and had ancient origins. It adapted to modern versions and changed its shape with time. But the paisley shawls were the most popular ones when it came to embroidered shawls. Before introducing themselves in Europe, the shape of the motifs was much different than after Europeans intervened. A town in Scotland was called Paisley, and that is where the motif was copied for the first time. The new adaptation of paisley was different, but was still beautiful enough to attract huge demand from locals. 

Other than the paisley motif, floral motifs, geometric motifs, abstract motifs and more were used in Pashmina shawls. 

The origin of Cashmere

Cashmere is a term introduced by Europeans. The term was an anglicization of the term ‘Kashmir’, as the foreigners could not pronounce Kashmir as the locals did. Cashmere was a new term for Kashmiri locals, but it gained prominence in Europe, as this new wool variant had brought about a revolution in the fashion world. 

What is Cashmere

Cashmere is the name given to the wool that grows on the body of a rare goat species. These goats are found in Ladakh. The goat grows it as a downfibre, which protects it from one of the coldest temperatures in the world. This wool is acquired, processed and the products are cherished for life. 

Changthang, Ladakh

Changthang, 170 km from Leh in Ladakh is home to a Buddhist tribe called Changpa. Changpa is the community that endures travails while nurturing, tending to and protecting a rare species of mountain goats that have a special wool. The Changpa tribe is a low profile one, and in the absence of electricity and telephones, remain more or less cut off from the main population of the cities. The population hardly receives any education or health facilities, and the development of this tribe has taken a snail pace. Hence the main occupation of the tribesmen and women is rearing animals.

Cattle farming is the basic mode of sustenance of the Changpa tribe, as the arid land hardly grows any crop. And since there is less or no scope for agricultural practices, Changpa rear goats, sheep, yaks, and more animals. Yaks and goats yield milk, which is used to make cheese. Yak hair is also used to make tents, which the tribespeople spend most of their life in. Goats and sheep provide meat.

Production of Cashmere

As soon as summer arrives, after an almost 8 month winter season, the Changpa tribe is ready to acquire Cashmere from the goats. It is the freezing months of winter when the Changpa goats grow fine Cashmere as a down coat. This is bestowed upon them by nature as a blessing, and this coat helps them to survive temperatures that go down to -40 degrees C.

On the arrival of warmer days, the coat is partially naturally shed by the animal. This is collected and the remaining portion is combed out gently. The goat is gently handled during the time when its down hair is to be combed off. It is upturned, and a long toothed comb is moved over the coat so that it gently comes out. Small amounts of Cashmere wool come out with each stroke. The process is painstaking and lengthy, but not for the tribesmen who have been doing the same for centuries now. 

As little as just 300-400 grams of Cashmere is acquired from a single goat. Not more than 3 inches long, and 12 to 16 microns in diameter, the hair is super fine, soft and warm to touch. It is packed in small packets and sold to traders from Leh. These traders travel to Kashmir, and sell the hair to those who process it to make Pashmina shawls, scarves, and more. 

Cashmere comes to Kashmir

As soon as Cashmere wool reaches the valley, it's welcomed by the womenfolk. Something to note here is that Cashmere has been one of the most empowering routes for women, and for this reason, Pashmina shawls aren't just loved but deeply revered by locals. 

Womenfolk from the most remote areas of the valley come together to collect Cashmere wool from the traders. Post this, the wool is thoroughly cleaned by them, and then spinning of the same starts. 

Spinning means converting lumps of Cashmere wool to fine fibre. Exceptionally skilled women from Kashmir have a know-how of this meticulous process since the 15th century. With a perfect rhythm of their hands and the fibre, the wool acquired from Ladakh in the shape of chunks is transformed to fine fibre. This fibre has a diameter of just 12 - 16 microns, and it is just these women who can see, process and handle just delicate and thin threads of Cashmere. 

Weaving Fine Threads

Post spinning, the weaving of Cashmere threads has to be fulfilled. Weaving of the threads would turn fibre to a complete product. For this purpose the traditional handloom, indigenous to Kashmir, is brought to work. Two or three men sit in the two opposite directions of the handloom, and start firing the threads into the loom. This takes a number of days. Post this, the fibre is handwoven for a period of 3 or 4 days, and by the end of this speculated time, a solid Pashmina shawl is ready. This shawl is in a solid form, and is later sent for any embellishments like embroidery, lacing or printing. 

Hence, it is the unmatched skill and competent talents of Kashmiri artisans which lead to lumps of wool being converted to luxury shawls and more. Post weaving, Cashmere isn't just converted to shawls and scarves, but to large fabric pieces. This fabric is used to make apparel, blankets, socks and more. Hence the use is versatile depending upon the demand. 

What is the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina

The process of transforming Cashmere to Pashmina shawls tells us the difference between the two terms. Whileas, Cashmere is the fine wool that grows on the body of the Changthangi goat of Ladakh, Pashmina is the name given to the art of transforming it. Hence the transformation of Cashmere to luxury shawls, scarves, stoles or wraps is an art, which is called the art of Pashmina. 

The Present Scenario: Is Cashmere same as Pashmina

Pashmina and Cashmere are often used as synonyms. But the above-mentioned making process will clear the differences, as will the present scenario faced by Pashmina.

At present, Cashmere is referred to the down fibre of Ladakhi goat which is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. Cashmere yarn is 12-16 microns in diameter and is considered as one of the finest fibres in the world. The yarn is so fine that it is barely visible to the eye and so soft that it sometimes breaks, even by manual stress. It takes the Cashmere of three adult goats to make just one shawl. Naturally, Cashmere fibre is ash-coloured but later when woven, it can be dyed into any colour the wearer likes. 

One of the reasons that Pashmina can't be woven on a machine is that it can't bear the strain that the machine puts on the thread.

Pashmina, on the other hand, is the name given to the art of handcrafting luxury wraps from Cashmere fibre. Hence, Pashmina is the art of spinning and weaving cashmere, the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goat to make luxury shawls, scarves, stoles, and more

Cashmere yarn is a natural fibre and is exceptionally warm and soft. This makes Kashmiri Pashmina shawls the warmest of all wrap accessories. It is said that if you wear a Pashmina shawl, you do not need to put on layers of oversized coats and cardigans in fall and early winter days.

Fake Pashmina: A Blow to Art

In the early 90’s, when Pashmina shawls reached their zenith, several producers started producing fake Pashmina shawls. This was because Pashmina was an expensive product, and making fake pieces would fetch them money, without investing much. Hence, producers used simple sheep wool or mixed the same in Cashmere threads to produce cheaper copies of the lavish Pashmina shawl. 

Nowadays too, the market has been flooded with cheap and fake copies, which are sometimes sold as Cashmere, and the others as Pashmina. The fine Cashmere yarn is often mixed with strength providing silk and nylon threads, and sold as pure Pashmina. This type of Pashmina is purely machine-made, and brings shame to the pure one. Pashmina is the exclusive art, where only pure Cashmere can be used to make luxury accessories. It should be a product of pure skilled craftsmanship and the experience of an artisan should be visible. But contemporary designs and the allure of fast fashion have led to the introduction of machines in this trade. 

However, the grace of pure Pashmina is still unmatched. The way its weaves are uneven, the way its embroidery takes years together to complete, the way it takes the experience of a lifetime of its artisans to perfectly conjure it has no parallel. 

Downfall of Pashmina shawl sales

Customers who are the real patrons of the regal art, identify original Pashmina shawls quite well. For this reason, ardent admirers of Pashmina shawls became really confused about the purchase of these shawls, and after a while chose not to. This was because they needed the original product, which was hardly available. Fake products would last for a few years while original Pashmina shawls would last for decades together. This caused a commotion and ultimately the sales of Pashmina shawls lowered. The situation made real artisans of Pashmina shawls suffer, and ultimately the art reached the lowest point. 

It is very recently that the real advocates of handmade art pieces demanded a ban on the fake shawls. These organisations or individuals came in direct contact with the original shawl makers and promoted them on an international level. 

Pashmina and Slow Fashion

Slow fashion, ethical, and responsible shopping are all buzzwords now. And we are proud to confess that Pashmina has always been a sustainable accessory. One of the many reasons why knowing the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina is so important is the sustainability factor that the luxury wool provides. Right from the start Cashmere is a natural fibre and is acquired manually in an ethical fashion. No animals are harmed in the acquisition of fine Cashmere from the goat’s underbelly and neck. The process is natural, and the super-soft fur is gently combed off the goat’s body and not even sheared. 

Secondly, there is no machine intervention in the making. The process of weaving a Pashmina is manual. It is done over a wooden handloom, where two or more artisans sit at one place and spend four to five days to weave a shawl

A Pashmina shawl or should we say a Cashmere wrap employs local labour and helps survive small enterprises. In that way too, Pashmina, even if on the higher side of the price scale, helps underprivileged communities grow and develop. 

The Bottom Line 

Whether it is called Cashmere or Pashmina, whether a seller is selling you Cashmere or Pashmina, the bottom line is that it should be pure. If you are a seller, it is your responsibility to sell original pieces to your customers so that they know what the ancient art of Pashmina is. But if you are a customer, you have to take special care of what you are buying. Always check the purity of your Pashmina before you buy it. It is a lifetime investment. Buy from a verified dealer, do some checks at home and relish this luxurious treasure for an entire lifetime. Gift it to someone special. Gift Pashmina as wedding favours. Customize the shawls to give as customised gifts for corporate gifting. Present this to a newlywed bride. But make sure the gift is pure, handmade, and full of love.

Winter is already here. Chilly breeze has surrounded all of us and lying all day in cozy beds has become like a hobby. But there is no reason why we need to hide behind the blankets and oversized sweaters. We do need to look super stylish in every season.  We just came up with an alternative that could keep one warm throughout the day as well as make you a style icon. And that alternative is the world-famous Pashmina shawl from Kashmir. 

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting fine Cashmere wool into luxury scarves, shawls, and wraps. Cashmere wool is found in Ladakh where a rare species of goats grow it as an undercoat. It is extremely warm, soft, and delicate. The Pashmina goat grows this specific wool at a temperature of -40 degrees, which helps it survive the harsh weather.

But as soon as summer arrives, the goat becomes uneasy and keeps rubbing itself against rocks, shrubs, and trees to get rid of the same. As herders realize the time has come, they professionally get the hair combed and collect it all in lumps. These lumps of soft wool are in a raw form and need further processing. First spun, and then handwoven, Pashmina shawls are an entire matter of labour. A Pashmina shawl or wrap is so warm that you would hardly need oversized jackets and baggy woolen coats to layer up if you own this treasure of an accessory

Back to History

In Kashmir, it was around the 15th century when Pashmina got discovered. A Sufi saint by the name of Shah E Hamdan visited the valley from Persia. He brought along some 700 craftsmen who were masters in a number of crafts. These craftsmen trained local Kashmiris in handicrafts like Paper Mache, Walnut wood making, willow making, and many more. However one of the crafts became more popular amongst all. And that was Pashmina making. Pashmina making is the art in which fine Cashmere is transformed into luxury wraps, apparel, and accessories. The largest section of the society chose the same art as their profession and did the same for 8-10 hours a day. The wraps hence produced would be completely labour intensive and their artistic demeanour would be unmatched. 

Not only in Kashmir but the admiration of Pashmina also grew all over the world. Be it Europe, Asia, or America, patrons of handicrafts came from all over the world to Kashmir to invest in these beauties. Kashmir used to be a hub of Pashmina trade back then. And it became the source of Pashmina from which it spread like a wildfire. 

Also read: Pashmina - The Heritage

Making a Pashmina

The making of a Pashmina itself dictates the user how to use it. The immense craftsmanship put into it, the delicate finesse that the final product has, and the exquisite patterns that are handwoven in kaleidoscopic colours are all proof that Pashmina is the most luxurious and extravagant art in the world. But what goes into its making is absolutely overwhelming. 

Over a height of 15000 feet, in Ladakh, there is a region known by the name of Changthang, where an exotic goat species is found. This goat grows fine Cashmere as an undercoat which keeps it warm and helps it survive a temperature of -40 degrees. This fine wool is combed off the goat’s body in hot summers as its warmth makes the goat uncomfortable. 

As the wool is collected, it is cleaned and sorted as per quality. The finest quality goes into spinning and weaving, and later embroidering, all in the valley of Kashmir. Artisans work for years together, and complete masterpieces for art admirers all over the world. 

As soon as a woman receives her Pashmina, she herself chooses how to use Pashmina. Whether she chooses to wear her new piece as a shawl, a scarf, or an accessory, it's all up to her unique style. 

Also read: All you need to know about Pashmina Wool

How to use a Pashmina

Pashmina wraps are so versatile, that there can be over 50 styles to use them. There are hand-embroidered pieces, solids, ombre, Kani, patterned and printed, and Swarovski embellished ones. How to use Pashmina is up to the needs of the wearer. You can use it as a shawl, as a wrap, wear it like a scarf, or even make a DIY shrug out of its downy base. Here are a number of ways in which you can use a Pashmina

Wear your Pashmina like a shawl

Pashmina can be used as a shawl. The measurements of such a piece should be at least 100 * 200 cm. This type of Pashmina is generally draped over the shoulders to cover the upper portion of your body with its pleasant warmth. Or else you can let the shawl dangle on one shoulder by placing the center of it on the shoulder and suspending the rest down.

Pashmina is worn as a shawl usually at weddings or special functions. Here you flaunt your classy sense of accessorizing and prove that you haven't let go of your cultural influence.

The Pashmina can be worn as a stole. Place the center of the stole over the neck and let the two sides loose from the front. You can take one of the ends and flick it over the other. The stole size is usually 70 cms * 100 cms and those wraps are used as stoles which are solid, printed, patterned, or other contemporary patterns. Women do not prefer to use a large heavy embroidered scarf to be worn as a stole. Having said that, it again depends on the style preference of the wearer. 

There are again a number of ways of how to wear the stole, which gives more variety to it. Hang from a shoulder, drape around the neck, tie over the waist in a large bow with a dress ors style however the diva inside you demands. 

Pashmina can be worn as a scarf in so many ways. Tie it in a french knot and you are done for a formal day at the office. Wrap it like a loop around the ends with ends suspended down or fitted inside your sweater. Scarves are essential in winter in ways that they act as the ultimate warmth producers, and if they're Pashmina, then you will forget about every other wrap you ever possessed.

Wear Pashmina as a dress accessory

Pashmina can be easily paired with a dress - long or short - by choosing the right colour. Usually, women pair Pashmina wraps with plain dresses. You can tie your Pashmina by making a large bow at the neck for a classic look. Or else you can just wrap it around the shoulders and let it brighten up a basic dress. A warm shaded Pashmina can be worn to pep up a basic nude outfit, and a minimal solid scarf might calm an overdone look. 

Sometimes a Pashmina is tied over a bag for a modish demeanor. Simply make a beautiful knot when tied to the straps. 

Wear Pashmina as a Bandana

For a chic look in the cold season, tie your Pashmina as a head accessory. Make a knot at the back of your head and let ends loose from the back. Pashmina, when used as bandana keeps a person warm as well as protects the hair and adds a chic touch to winter and fall outfits

Wear your wrap as a shrug

You can even transform a Pashmina shawl into a shrug easily. Spread the shawl across the back and bring the two ends from under your arms to the front. Extend these ends to the back of the neck and make a knot. This style of wearing Pashmina rids of a sweater, which is too much of a burden in the fall. 

Pair warm and bold prints with minimal outfits, and similarly nude solids with overdone outfits which needs to be balanced properly.

Also read: 7 Ways to Style your Pashmina

How to use Patterns in Pashmina

Solids

You can pair a solid wrap with almost everything and on a number of occasions. Be it wearing a scarf with your formals, casuals, or an evening walk with friends, a solid piece never looks dull or out of fashion.

Patterns and prints

For a more chic look, you can combine bold and colourful prints and patterns with modish apparel to give them a stylish twist. Be it your favourite pair of jeans and shirts, or skirts, a Pashmina scarf will seamlessly blend with everything you shopped for.

Shaded Ombre Pashmina

We love colours, don’t we? How wonderful would it be to dress up in all our favourite colours, as well as gradient shades. Ombre Pashmina shawls serve the purpose. Skillfully handwoven and more skillfully coloured in a number of gradient shades, or a combination of two or three shades make ombre styled shawls perfect for those who love to take a dip in the bright world of warm hues.

Flaunt your culture with hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls that come from the valley of Kashmir. Done artistically by local craftsmen, hand-embroidered shawls look amazing in the wedding season or as a gift to your loved ones

Kani Shawls

Kani shawls got fame when French Empress Josephine got a few hundred of them. Handwoven over a handloom, Kani Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are a must-have for those whose taste in accessories is purely artistic.

Lace Shawls

The sophistication of a Pashmina shawl doubles with it is embellished with lace. To make a shawl look exclusive and utmost graceful, it is at times adorned with a chantilly lace in contrast or a tone on tone shade. Such shawls look especially pretty on semi-formal occasions or to gift your bridesmaid for the efforts she put to make your wedding day beautiful. 

Reversible shawls

Have you ever met an accessory which can be wrapped from both sides, front and back, and both are equally exquisite? Pashmina shawls are on some occasions handwoven in such an artistic weave that the front side looks exactly like the backside. Reversible Pashmina shawls were one such type that fascinated ancient royalty, who had never encountered such masterpieces before. 

Swarovski studded Pashmina Wraps

For semi-formal events and when you're the bridesmaid, nothing looks more gentle and dainty like a Swarovski embellished Pashmina scarf would. Swarovski wraps can be ideal gifts for women who meet their friends after a long time. 

How versatile is this single piece of cloth? Apparel, gifts, wedding favours, and more, the way to use Pashmina Shawls known no bounds. For this reason, it has popularity like no other art in the world. That is the reason why even after an introduction of fake copies, the real pure Pashmina doesn't die. It is the grace and elegance of the age-old traditional pieces which had kept the traditional alive.