Agar firdous baroye zameen ast,

Hameen asto hameen asto hameen ast

(If there is a paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this)

~Amir Khusrau

This couplet, framed by one of the most acclaimed Persian poets in awe of the Kashmir Valley, aptly describes its breathtaking beauty which rustles in the autumnal leaves of the Chinar. It unfolds in the soft thuds of snow and flows through its capital in the silent murmur of the Jhelum river.

The city of Srinagar is home to a rich culture that resonates in its several parts. Be it primitive architecture, close-knit neighborhoods, traditional attires, and century-old customs. The locals have preserved everything like a Holy grail. Home to over 15 luxury handicrafts including hand-carving, Papier Mache, Pashmina shawls, and tapestry making, one would possibly assume that the valley brims with economic prosperity like the intermediaries of its crafts do.

However, that is far from the reality

Take a closer look at a Pashmina artisan’s life and you will realize how this skilled class of people has been devoid of a decent standard of living. Take the case of Pashmina shawls for instance. Who would have imagined that a weaver of the most expensive and rare fabric of the world would be struggling to send his children to school?

Pashmina Artisans and The Turmoil

Precisely three decades ago, the craft of Pashmina making was a matter of pride. If you were a Pashmina artisan from Kashmir, you would be revered by people from all walks of life. You would be asked how you spin and weave the miraculous fabric and you would be sought after by international fashion designers, brands, and fashion houses alike (especially from European countries where Pashmina, known to them as Cashmere, is as precious as a diamond on the Queen’s crown).

Needless to say, with so many international orders pouring in, Pashmina making was considered a good source of revenue for all the 33 artisans involved in its making. And then the calamity struck. The beautiful valley was faced with never-ending political turmoil. All of a sudden, life came to a standstill. Designers stopped visiting, customers stopped pouring and the Pashmina artisan was the worst hit. Suddenly, a weaver, who would live a flamboyant lifestyle was on his knees, deprived of basic income. When the desperation for work grew, they settled for lower wages.“Something is better than nothing,” they thought. Little did they know that this settling would doom their living standards for decades to come.

Intervention of the machine - a blow to Pashmina artisans

Earlier, each household in the old Srinagar city would produce at least two Pashmina artisans-a spinner and a weaver. Generally, the women would spin the fibre while the men would weave. Together, they would run the errands of the house. Others would opt for dyeing, embroidering, washing, and cleaning.

Women Pashmina Artisans

A lesser-known fact is that Pashmina spinning was a means of financial independence for Kashmiri women. They could earn their own bucks, without having to depend on a man to provide for them. However, that is a thing of the past now.

“Factory owners purchase all of the raw material these days. They get the Pashmina spun by machines and even adulterate it with nylon. They are exploiting our Pashmina craft with these synthetic infected cheaper variants. We feel obsolete. Despite our protests, we are not able to stop them and protect our livelihood because they pay better prices to the trader than what we can offer. Money speaks. We feel like we have traveled back to a time when women were not in a position to earn their own money,” says Hasina, a middle-aged woman who was known to spin Pashmina fibres at the speed of light. Unfortunately, she could not match the price a rich factory owner can pay for the raw material.

Loss of Livelihood

So many women like Haseena have lost their livelihood because of similar reasons and their financial independence has been crippled, perhaps forever.

These women are not the only ones being hit. With machine intervention in the craft of Pashmina making, all the artisans were equally impacted-some sooner, others later. This is because factory owners added synthetic fibres (like nylon) to Pashmina shawls while spinning them over machines. The resulting product was low on quality and sold in the name of pure Pashmina. This cheaper variant caused allergies and skin irritations in a few people. They would wobble soon and show evident signs of a nylon product. When customers realized this, they stopped trusting the quality a Kashmiri artisan provided them and thus orders stopped. A Kashmiri artisan was misrepresented on an international level, his innocent voice unheard due to the influence of more powerful people dominating the market.

Fake Pashmina and replicas

The misrepresentation did not stop here. Soon, Pashminas shawls started selling for as little as $5. How could this be when it takes between two to six months of unending work by 33 people to craft one Pashmina shawl? Yes, you guessed it right. Replicas started flooding the market and the mistrust between a Pashmina lover and maker kept on growing. Nothing was done to widen the gap between the two. How would Pashmina then sell?

“Nylon scarves are being sold in the name of the Pashmina we spend months making. Since these are cheap, people tend to gravitate towards them, only to be disappointed later. Our name and craft which we hold so dear to our hearts are being exploited over and over again. We urge the customers not to fall for the trap and choose the real Pashmina instead!”, says Bashir Ahmed, a 60-year-old Pashmina weaver. Bashir has witnessed both the glory and the downfall of this elaborate art form.

Also read: 7 Tests to Identify Genuine Pashmina

The Intermediaries

To put a final nail in the coffin, intermediaries (distributors, wholesalers, and retailers) emerged and made heaps of money by exploiting the grassroot Pashmina artisan. How? They would procure Pashmina directly from the artisan, add their own margin (without adding any value). Later they would sell it at hefty prices in the international markets. When it came to paying the artisan, they paid peanuts, filling their own pockets with all of the profit. Back in the 1980s, when the valley was free of conflict & turmoil, a Pashmina artisan would make around $3 per shawl. Sadly, he still earns the same amount. His wages have not improved ever since. With increased inflation, Pashmina makers find it hard to sustain a basic living.

“I have been struggling to arrange the school fee for my 7-year-old. This is the state of all Pashmina artisans today. While the intermediaries who sell in our name live flamboyant lives, we are left to struggle for basic survival. This time, our own people have sucked our blood. You see my glasses. They are broken and I do not have money to get them fixed. Buying a new frame would be a luxury. I don’t even want that. I just want my child to get a quality education and choose a profession other than Pashmina making. That way he does not have to reel under the same poverty that we do,” says Fayaz, a third-generation Pashmina weaver. Fayaz desperately wants his son to secure a government job so that he lives a stable life, unlike his father.

While his eyes reveal his struggles, an embroiderer from his group, about 60 years of age chimes in.

The Ordeal of Women Pashmina artisans

“It was a matter of honor when my father handed over this Karkhana (workshop) to me. About 60 artisans would work here every single day. Our craft was booming. Today, we barely see 5 to 6 faces in a single Pashmina workshop. The others have changed their occupations. I don’t blame them. What else could they do? Passion for a craft does not quench thirst or hunger. The number of Pashmina makers in the valley has drastically reduced because we are paid very little and untimely wages. For instance, if I embroider a shawl today, I will have to follow up with the intermediary for over a year, till he pays me. During that time, I have to toil on my own, unpaid for the work I have already done.

I have a daughter who inherited my skills at a very young age. She would earn on her own, never rely on me or her husband for any money until our craft was struck by calamities. Today, she works as a maid in somebody’s house. These intermediaries have killed our market, our honour, and our pride. The way things are progressing, I don’t think there will be any Pashmina makers left in the valley. Perhaps then the world will understand the true value of an artisan.”

And there was more...

While looking for artisans who had switched to other occupations, we met Gulshan. Gulshan was a calm and composed 21 year old lady who happens to be the sole breadwinner of her family. Her brothers have abandoned her parents. Now the entire responsibility of the household, comprising of ailing elderly parents, rests on her shoulders. Gulshan learnt the skill of Pashmina spinning from her mother while she was barely 12 years old. Her father used to be a Pashmina weaver before he was paralyzed. With barely any education received, Meenu knows of no other way to run the basic errands of her household. Pashmina spinning is just not enough anymore. It doesn’t even suffice for the monthly groceries.

Slowly, but surely, many people of this craft started shifting to other occupations. Some embraced carpentry, some secured government jobs.

Lack of new designs and technological intervention

If you are served a chocolate cake right now, you’ll hog it all. If we serve you the same chocolate cake every day, you’ll hate it. Something similar happened with Pashmina. Cashmere Pashmina shawls are 7 centuries old. In the initial days, artisans would create heavy embroidery-laden shawls. These were cherished by people across the world.

However, there came a time when people evolved. So did the market and their lifestyle. The era of wearing gawdy accessories was over while our Kashmiri artisans had no clue about the changing trends. When they could not match what the customers really wanted, the sales dropped down. Pashmina artisans are generally uneducated. They have no clue about technological interventions and the power of the internet. This is one of the reasons they lagged behind.

How Pashmina.com Uplifts Kashmiri Pashmina Artisans

However, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. The gloom of Kashmiri Pashmina artisans finally met some optimism when Pashmina.com empowered them. Now artisans had the ability to showcase their products directly to a global audience. It bridged the gap between a Cashmere lover who seeks nothing but an original masterpiece and a grassroot artisan who wants to be recognized for his work.

When you buy a Pashmina from Pashmina.com, you are not just shopping. Rather, you are eliminating intermediaries, fakes, and replicas which have tarnished the Cashmere market. Above all, you are eliminating the powerful factory owners who have infected this elaborate art form with cheap variations of their own.

The Independence of Artisans

At Pashm, an artisan gets to decide the price of his/her product without having to share the earnings with anyone. Each purchase you make directly improves their livelihood and elevates their standards. The artisans associated with Pashmina.com are always paid upfront in order to motivate them to keep working at their craft. Your purchase sparks hope in their hearts. It encourages them to do better. Not only this, the designers at Pashmina.com ensure that an artisan knows exactly what the modern buyer wants so that they can align their products accordingly. Today, Pashmina.com has become the face of the Kashmiri artisan who now feels confident and positive. Do you realize how powerful that is?

Indulge in the beautiful world of Pashmina HERE!

A symbol of luxury and status, Pashmina products have always been sought-after not only in India but worldwide. However, behind the elegance and grandeur of Pashmina shawls are Kashmiri artisans. These artisans have mastered the skill of weaving and embroidery over generations. Pashmina owes its popularity to the pashm wool that is gotten from the Changthangi goats that survive temperatures below -40° C.

While the pashm wool is known for its softness and texture, it’s the delicate skill of Kashmiri artisans that make the end-result the luxury that it is

Why should you buy pure Pashmina products?

Fluffy and shiny Pashmina is available in the market at the fraction price of a pure Pashmina product. But what you will not get here is the unique craftsmanship of Kashmiri artisans. Made in two minutes on a machine, blended with silk & other materials, cheap Pashmina is absolutely fake. In addition to that, it lacks the soul of the age-old art of shawl making. As pure Pashmina shawls are handmade and feature hand-embroidery, no two shawls are the same. When you lay your hand on a pure Pashmina shawl, all you get is pure elegance and sophistication. A pure Pashmina product is an amalgamation of age-old craftsmanship, artistic innovation, and the rich history of Kashmir

Preserving heritage, promoting progress, supporting Kashmiri artisans

When you wear a pure Pashmina product, you do not only support the local artisans. You also support the Changpa tribes that rear the Pashmina goats on the high mountains of Ladakh. These goats are raised for not just their fur, but also for their milk. This herding community is the backbone of Pashmina manufacturing. These tribes have little or no access to the mainland. The way these herding sources of the wool are totally ethical and cause no harm to the animals. Moreover, local artisans use blocks for embroidery designs.

As more and more customers want contemporary designs, these patterns have to be first created on blocks. Blocks are hand cut out of the local walnut wood. Therefore, every time a new pattern is required, a new wooden block is created. Basically, when you drape yourself in a pure Pashmina, you end up supporting a number of groups. This includes the conventional keepers of Changthangi goats, the block printers and the local artisans who are struggling to keep the handweaving art form alive.

Also read: The Trail of India's Cashmere Goat Men

Conscious consumers

It might be easy to get your hands on inexpensive, highly disposable Pashmina shawls. But these shawls are responsible for water pollution, textile waste, and other issues. For fashion connoisseurs and conscious consumers, a pure Pashmina comes as an ethical choice.

Not only does a pure Pashmina last for generations, earning an heirloom status, but it is also evergreen and will never go out of style. Besides, supporting the artisans who handcraft Pashmina products, you care for the environment as a pure Pashmina product is organic

Buy from Pashmina.com, Support Kashmiri artisans

At a time when the art of hand weaving and hand-embroidery is on the verge of dying, it is our attempt to empower communities involved in Pashmina-making. We facilitate their access to education, training, and vocational studies. Also at Pashmina.com, we give back 5% of our proceeds to the overall welfare of the community.

This program especially focuses on empowering children and women of the families who don’t have any other source of income. So, instead of waiting for your next visit to Kashmir, shop it online. Splurge on a pure Pashmina shawl and give yourself the best gift ever.

Visit Pashmina.com to step into the world of Pashmina products like shawls, stoles, scarves, and Hijabs

Before we start discussing Pashmina and Cashmere, why not discuss the broader category from which both of them originate. Wool. Wool in garments has been used since 6000 BC. It was the Iranians who started to rear sheep to take advantage of their wool. Hence, wool started as a basic need, and today it is a fashion industry in which many people have the luxury to choose from hundreds of options in front of them.

Apart from stopping chilly winds to get to you, wool often gives a luxurious feeling especially those varieties which are acquired from rare and exotic animals. But you might be surprised to know that wool is different from hair, and the sweater, apparel, or wrap you are wearing might be made of either wool or hair!

Wool is sourced from sheep whereas hair is sourced from other animals like goats, alpaca, rabbits, etc. Wool is the outer fleece over the sheep's body, while hair can be the top fleece (guard hair) which protects the animal from rain etc, or the undercoat, which protects it from cold. Guard hair is coarser than the downhair. It is the undercoat that is soft, fine, smooth, warm, and highly prized. Wool fibres are short while hair fibres are longer.

Cashmere wool - Ladakh

Cashmere is one such down coat of the rare and exotic Ladakhi Capra Hircus goat. The goat is found 15000 feet above sea level in Ladakh's Changthang area. The region is cold and dry. Apart from this, it is home to a tribal group of nomads, who rear these goats for their wool, milk, and meat.

The goat grows a special kind of down coat in winters, and it protects it from one of the harshest winters ever (-40 degrees). The wool grows on the most sensitive parts of this goat, like the underbelly, ears, neck and so. As soon as summer arrives, the fleece makes the goat too hot and uneasy. This results in the goat rubbing itself against coarse surfaces to get rid of it. The rest of the wool is professionally combed off its body. It is collected and sent to Kashmir.

Cashmere in Kashmir

Cashmere wool was for the first time discovered by Shah I Hamdan. He was a Sufi saint who visited Kashmir, and traveled to Ladakh. There he found this luxury soft and warm wool, growing on the body of this goat. Thereafter, he ordered a pair of socks to be made out of it. This pair of socks was gifted to the then Mughal ruler of Kashmir - Zain ul Abideen - who was highly impressed by the quality and warmth of Cashmere. He immediately ordered processing units to be set, where this wool could be processed. The wool could be transformed into apparel, accessories, or anything that could be made out of it.

Shah I Hamdan had already brought along a group of craftsmen from Persia. They mastered several handicrafts like wool processing, Papier Mache, wool carving, copper work, and many more. It was them who now trained the locals to process Pashmina and make luxury shawls, scarves, apparel, and accessories out of it. Pashmina art was one which the maximum number of people chose as their source of income. Shawls began to be getting exported to India, as well as outside India. The economy improved, and so did the financial condition of locals.

Processing of Cashmere

Processing of raw Cashmere takes place in Kashmir. Wool is cleaned for several days and sorted according to quality. This is done by womenfolk. Clean wool is now spun, manually over a wooden spinning wheel, locally called 'Yinder'. Yinder converts a lump of wool into yarn, which is 12-16 microns in diameter. This fine thread is sent for weaving.

Weaving takes place over a wooden handloom. Fine Cashmere yarn is mounted over the loom, and two or three men work simultaneously. The yarn gets processed to a luxuriously gentle and downy smooth and soft fabric, and what comes to life is the world-famous Pashmina shawl.

Hence Pashmina is the royal art of handcrafting luxury shawls out of fine Cashmere wool. Pashmina is different and superior in quality from other kinds of wool/hair as it originates from a rare species of goats. The yarn is so fine that the diameter is between 12-16 microns only.

Also read: What is so special about cashmere?

Glory of Pashmina

The process of spinning and weaving is quite labour intensive. It takes as many as 50 different artisans to complete one Pashmina shawl. If the shawl is to be embroidered, it takes 4-5 years to complete each piece. Pashmina shawls were once only afforded by the royals, rich and influential personalities. Even today, Pashmina shawls are a major yes for celebrities around the world. It is the natural elegance, exquisite craftsmanship which goes into making it, sumptuous warmth, and coziness that makes Pashmina the king of all its counterparts.

Another difference between Cashmere and Pashmina is the usage of the two terms. Locally the shawls are called Pashmina shawl because the same term was used for the first time. 'Pashm' literally translates to 'soft gold'. It is a Persian word. However, when Europeans traveled to Kashmir, at the beginning of the 18th century, they discovered this luxury wool, which was called Pashm locally. They purchased a few hundreds of these but rather than calling these by their local name, they called the shawls Cashmere (which they would pronounce Kashmir as). With time, Cashmere became better known in Europe and even locally because Europeans were more in number and more influential than the locals

Also read: Kashmiri Shawls during the Dogra Period

Cashmere, Pashmina, and Responsible Fashion

Call it Cashmere, or Pashmina or simply Kashmiri shawls, the products are ethically handcrafted and hence their purchase would definitely be responsible shopping. Are Pashmina and Cashmere the same? Cashmere is the fibre that is manually acquired without hurting the animal. Later it is manually spun and manually woven by underprivileged sections of the society whose only source of income is Pashmina making and selling. There is no use of machines, which pollute the environment. In fact, if Pashmina is machine-made, it is considered fake.

The paradisaical valley of Kashmir has an invincible heritage in the possession of High altitude goats which are found in the Himalayan region. The cold and arid Changthang area of Ladakh owns an exotic species of goats, which are known as Changthang goats. A soft and fine fibre is grown over their bodies which is called Cashmere wool. It is this Cashmere wool that undergoes several processes to produce the world-famous Pashmina shawls. Hence we can say that it is the Changthang goat of Ladakh which gives Pashmina wool (Cashmere). That is in turn used to make shawls, scarves, and wraps of the finest quality.

The word Pashmina comes from the Persian word 'Pashm' which means 'soft gold'. And indeed, the experience of wearing a luxury Pashmina shawl or scarf is the same. But, what animal is pashmina wool from? While there are many more types of goats found all over the Himalayan region, it is the Changthangi goat of Ladakh which produces the finest fibre or cashmere, also called pashmina wool. And in turn, it is Kashmir, where the best quality Pashmina shawls are found.

Pashmina comes from an animal fibre Cashmere, derived from the Changthangi goat of Ladakh. It is well known for its warmth, lightweight, and softness in addition to its characteristic dye absorbing property. Pashmina has been accredited by the Guinness Book of World Records for being the costliest cloth in the world (after a ban imposed on Shahtoosh - the fibre produced by the Tibetan Antelope). The reason for being world-renowned is the diameter of each Cashmere thread, which is just 12-16 microns. Note that the human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns, and that makes Cashmere fibre equal to one-fourth of a human hair!

The Pashmina Goat

A mammal belonging to the Bovidae family, the Pashmina goat belongs to the Capra hircus species. It produces fine, gossamer raw wool which has been named Cashmere by Europeans who used to visit the valley to buy Pashmina shawls. These goats are neither too large nor of small stature, and their height ranges from 60 to 80 cm. The average weight of a male Pashmina goat is about 45 kgs, and that of a female Pashmina goat is around 35 kg.

The goats have wide horns and a compact build. These can be found in a few colours with white dominating the breed and black, brown, red, cream, ash being the other variants. Pashmina goats are quite alert and active and this trait has been considered to be due to their feral ancestry.

The whole body of a Pashmina goat is covered with an undercoat of Cashmere as well as long hair. It is just the face and muzzle which are without hair. The ears of Changthangi goats are small in size and erect while the horns are typically curved.

Types of Pashmina goats

Based on a number of physical features, Pashmina goats can be classified into four main groups; western, eastern, feral, and northern goats, Pashmina-Mohair crossbred

The western (Kirgiz) type Pashmina goat

The western type of Pashmina goats produces a huge quantity of Cashmere than their other counterparts. This might be because of their more bodyweight which is approximately 55-60 kg. The fibre diameter of the wool they give is around 18–20 μm

The eastern (Mongolian) type

The eastern type of Pashmina goats has finer and shorter undercoats than the western type. Their undercoat fibre diameter is the same as the Kirgiz type of Pashmina goat, but they are just longer.

Feral and Northern goats

Feral goats are relatively new in the world of cashmere production. Their population is heterogeneous and undeveloped. These goats produce lesser undercoat than the quantity required.

Pashmina-Mohair crossbred goats

Crossbreeding of Pashmina goats with mohair goats has lead to an increase in their fibre length, weight, and diameter.

Pashmina goats and the Changthang

The nimble Changthangi goat has gotten well adapted to the harsh conditions that the Changthang region has to offer. The herder tribes are known as Changpa. These are nomadic communities that are a sub-sect of the larger Buddhist community in the northern Indian union territory of Ladakh. Changpa inhabits the Changthang plateau which has the lowest altitude of 14000 feet above sea level and winter temperature can drop to −40-degree Celsius. For this reason, they rear sheep in these harsh climates for meat, and Pashmina goats for wool primarily.

Changpa tribe resides in tents that are small and circular, with a central heating arrangement. These herders let the animals graze throughout the day, and are returned to the village at night. The grazing areas for summers and winters are differentiated. The climatic conditions induce in the goats the ability to produce warm undercoats so that they survive the harsh climate outside. The Changthangi goats have even adapted to the scarce variety of foods available in the region. As such, they prefer shrubs to richer grasses.

The Pashmina goat moults at the beginning of summer, and by the end of winter combing is done using specialized combs to obtain the maximum out of their bodies.

Also read: The Trail of India's Cashmere Goat Men

Properties of Cashmere fibre

The fineness of Cashmere fibre is the most important quality parameter when it comes to Pashmina shawls and scarves. As a matter of fact, fineness is the very parameter that differentiates it from the sheep wool. The average fibre fineness of Cashmere wool fibre is 12-16 microns. It takes the wool from three to four goats to produce one Pashmina shawl of measurements 200*100 cm. One goat produces about 150 grams of Pashmina per year.

From the Animal to your Wardrobe

For centuries the processing of Pashmina has been taken care of in Kashmir. This is because the people of Ladakh might be rich in the acquisition of the Pashmina goat, but the expertise of processing the fibre lies in the heart of Kashmir.

When the moulting period of the goat is complete, the raw wool is combed off the goat's body and sent to Kashmir for processing. In Kashmir, it is received and straight away sent to artisans who begin by cleaning and sorting the wool which is full of impurities. When the wool is clean, it is spun over a wooden spinning wheel called 'Yinder'. This technique is indigenous to Kashmir and has been so for centuries now. Post spinning the actual Cashmere yarn is produced which is just 12-16 microns in diameter. It is just the meticulous effort and sheer hard work of women who can produce such fine yarn by hand.

After the spinning process, the yarn enters handloom factories where wooden handlooms, traditional to Kashmir, are found. Two or sometimes three men sit over the loom and begin the weaving of fine yarn handed over to them. It is only after three or four days that a Pashmina shawl is produced over the handloom. the shawl is still in its solid form, yet ready to take on any embellishment as the consumer requires. Common embellishments are embroidery which tops the list, followed by prints, patterns, laces, studs and more.

Pashmina and Slow Fashion

While most of the fashion followers today follow fast fashion trends which come and go, besides causing tremendous harm to the environment, Pashmina is different. Firstly it is acquired from an animal which makes it a natural fibre, acquired without any use of the machine. Secondly, it is acquired ethically, without harming the animal, and without using any cruel or hurting methods. And third, Pashmina follows slow fashion trends in the way that a Pashmina shawl lasts for decades together. In ancient Kashmir, a bride used to receive a Pashmina shawl as a gift from her mother, which would be thirty years old. But not a tad in its grace would be lost for such a long time. In fact, it would look more traditional and exquisite in its demeanor

The Question of Purity

As beautiful and graceful as your Pashmina shawl is, there is a chance that it cannot be 100% pure. A Pure Pashmina shawl is one that is only made up of pure Cashmere fibre. with no mixtures. But several dishonest traders and manufacturers have started weaving Pashmina on machines (power looms) to increase production, instead of traditional wooden handlooms. As such, to make the fibre tolerate the strength of the machine, for which pure Cashmere is too weak, some strong fibre like silk or nylon is mixed with the Cashmere, thus making it strong. This mixed fibre is handwoven to shawls and these are sold as pure Pashmina shawls.

The best option for the admirers of Pure Pashmina is to invest in the purest of shawls. Checking for the GI Tag, asking the seller for a certificate that shows the purity of Pashmina, and always buying from authentic sellers are some ways to buy only pure Pashmina.

If it ever becomes possible, visit Ladakh for once and check for yourself how beautiful and graceful is the animal from which the fibre comes. The region it lives in is so pure, fresh, and free from the pollution-filled environment which is found in the cities. And this purity is clearly visible on its coat, which wraps its buyers in the coziest warmth they have ever experienced.

Owning a Pashmina has been a dream of women ever since its inception. And that has been the case all over the world, across gender, race, ages, and cultures. There have absolutely been no borders whenever it came to owning a Pashmina. Shawls made in Kashmir would reach Europe and the US alike and cherished by each and every admirer of craft.

In the past, Kashmiri artisans lived the life of kings. They would be invited to foreign countries so as to train the locals in their realms of artistic work like weaving, embroidery, or any other craft. This was especially true for Pashmina artisans. Being a manifestation of sophistication, every artisan around the world would love to be a Pashmina artisan and learn this craft. But that wouldn't be much possible, as raw Cashmere of the finest quality was available only in Ladakh - India.

The glory didn't live long

As time passed, the fame began to shun. And the community which once lived a luxurious life suddenly felt worthless in the society. The reason behind this downfall was another section of counterfeit traders, who sold fake Pashminas in the name of real Pashminas.

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps from raw Cashmere. Cashmere is found in Ladakh. It grows on the body of the Changthangi goat, which grows it as a defense against harsh cold. It is this smooth and fine wool that is extracted (ethically) from the goat, processed, and handcrafted to make Pashmina shawls, scarves, hijabs, and many accessories. Hence Pashmina comes from a natural fibre that is processed manually to make end products. And since the procedure is purely labour-intensive, it takes a lot of time for wraps to get ready.

For solid scarves and wraps, it might take 4-5 days, but for Kani shawls or fully embroidered Jamawar shawls, artisans spend years together to prepare one piece, which is as elegant as it is comfortable. But a problem arose during this time. There were customers who would need their scarves immediately, and couldn't get them. They would have to wait for at least 3 days; that is if the artisan worked days and nights together. Perhaps the solution would be to employ more than one artisan, but some traders had other plans, the plans which proved vicious for the entire industry. Machines

Introduction of Power Loom

As the demand for Pashmina shawls grew more and more, but the processing was slow because of manual labour, traders introduced machines into this craft. Power looms replaced handloom, and the shawl that was earlier crafted in 3-4 days, would now be ready in an hour! But the issue wasn't the speed, it was how the power loom treated the fine Cashmere, which is so delicate that it breaks even with the slightest of forces, even with hands. Hence to make the yarn bear the strain of the machine, pure Cashmere yarn would be mixed with strengthening fibre like nylon or silk, and then passed through machines. This way the resulting product wouldn't be pure Cashmere, it would be a fake Pashmina shawl, a fake Pashmina scarf, and hence not what the customer expected.

This new "quick-made" Pashmina created ruckus in the entire industry. Handloom workers lost jobs and the trend rendered hundreds of artisans jobless. Why would the customer wait for 3 days for them if he could get the same in one hour? Not knowing the long-term harm of this activity, customers actually went for fake Pashmina shawls. But later when the shawl exhausted in just a year, they realized that they have been cheated.

Reputation of Pashmina

Unaware of the reality, the customers came to the conclusion that Pashminas are all fake, and do not last for more than a year, whereas a real Pashmina lasts for a lifetime. Unnecessarily, Pashmina got a bad reputation and was replaced by its alternatives in a short span of time. Locally people still knew about fake and original Pashmina, and would directly shop from vendors who sold real Pashmina. But people living outside India never knew the real keepsake and went on with the idea that Pashmina is always compromised, and real Pashmina shawls do not exist now, at all.

Why is Pashmina special

Pashmina, often referred to as the "soft gold" of Kashmir, is an ancient art form that involves transforming Cashmere wool to luxury wraps and shawls. Cashmere is a luxurious and world famous wool type that people cherish. Its origins trace back to the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas, particularly in Kashmir and Ladakh, areas the Changthangi goats, the source of Cashmere, inhabit. The word "Pashmina" itself comes from the Persian word "Pashm," meaning "soft gold," symbolizing its unparalleled softness and value.

The history of Pashmina dates back to ancient times, with references found in the texts and traditions of the Himalayan region. For centuries, Pashmina shawls have been a symbol of royalty and luxury, often gifted to emperors, kings, and nobility. The craft of Pashmina weaving was introduced to Kashmir in the 15th century. It was Zain-ul-Abidin, a ruler who brought skilled weavers from Central Asia. Over time, Kashmiri artisans became perfect in the art of spinning and weaving Pashmina. They created shawls that were famous for their exquisite craftsmanship and delicate patterns.

What is Real Pashmina?

Real Pashmina, or call it original or authentic Pashmina is the one that has been handcrafted manually out of pure Cashmere from the goat. The goat sheds its down fibre in Spring, which is collected by herders, besides combing off the rest from the goat's body. This raw wool is collected and cleaned, sorted, before sending it to Kashmir. In Kashmir, artisans spin and weave it manually, and hence comes to life a handcrafted Pashmina, which has been famous ever since it was discovered. It is pure, soft, exceptionally warm, and has a natural grace. These shawls last for more than 20 years.

On the contrary, fake Pashmina shawls aren't as warm, have an artificial sheen, and last at the most for a year. These are the ones whose yarn gets mixed up with strengthening fibre and as a result, comes out a conglomerate of pure Cashmere and foreign material. This type sells for a lesser price due to a less percentage of Cashmere present in it. Moreover identifying a real Pashmina isn't easy. It takes an expert eye to differentiate between pure and fake Pashminas. But recently some tests have been devised to identify real Pashmina, and differentiate it from an impure one. Let us discuss one by one.

How to identify Real Pashmina?

There are a number of tests that we can conduct over a Pashmina shawl, that is if we already own one.

Test 1: The Burn Test

The burn has always been the first and primary test to prove the purity of Pashmina. Pick a piece from the fringes, place it on a plate, and burn it. If the cut fringe gives out the odour of a natural hair fibre upon burning, there are higher chances of the shawl being a real Pashmina. Also, the ash should turn into a powder, just burning a single strand of your own hair would do.

Test 2: Matte texture following the Burn

After you burn the fringe from Pashmina, the residue should be matte, and not very shiny. Pashmina mostly carries a matte look. If there is too much shine after burning, or even your shawl, chances are that the shawl is fake.

Test 3: Uneven weave of the shawl

Hold your shawl against bright light and notice the weave properly. Is it uneven? If yes, then there is a chance of the shawl being pure. If it has been handcrafted by artisans manually, the weave won't be perfect, and human error will be present clearly.

Test 4: Rubbing the Shawl

Rub your shawl a little at one of the corners. Does it produce static electricity? If it does, there is a chance that the shawl is fake. That is because polyester or acrylic fibre produces static electricity, and would generate sparks if rubbed. Natural fibre doesn't possess this quality and hence doesn't produce sparks if rubbed. This test is perhaps the easiest to conduct.

Test 5: The Pilling Test

Even if we never like our clothes piling, but here piling would prove otherwise. Real, original Pashmina shawls will pile. That is because artisans craft them from natural fibre. If your Pashmina is shiny and does not pill at all, there are chances that is a silk or nylon mix. It is just synthetic which prevents piling. This rule goes for wool too (sheep's wool)

Test 6: Is it actually comfortable to wear?

If your Pashmina shawl itches when you wear it or causes allergic reactions, then you might be possessing a fake product. Original Pashmina is soft, comfortable, and easy on your body.

Value of a Real Pashmina

Even though sellers sell their Pashmina, fake or real, at the same prices, but real Pashmina is indeed a little expensive than its cheaper copies. But, how much does a real pashmina cost? The price however depends on a number of factors like ply, count, and weaving design.

Ply

Ply is the density of fibre artisans use to make a shawl. A single-ply Pashmina means that artisans use the basic thread in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply indicates that artisans double twist the fibre. Two-ply is more pricey, as it gives more strength to the scarf made. A single-ply scarf would be more delicate, sheer, and cheaper than the two-ply.

Yarn Count

Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that artisans spin per gram. The more yarn count, the thinner, smoother, and more precious is the scarf. Therefore, a 100 count Pashmina shawl would mean that one gram of the shawl 100 meters of the yarn, and the fibre would be more delicate. This type of Pashmina would be more expensive, because the finer the fibre, the more painstakingly it is made. So one should know the yarn count before asking "How much does a real Pashmina cost"?

Thickness of the Fibre

How much does a real Pashmina cost depends on the thickness of the fibre:

If the fibre used is thick, the Pashmina would lose its essence, and hence be less expensive. The finer the fibre used, the more pricey the shawl becomes. Besides, it is believed that the finer the fibre used, the warmer the shawl is.

Weaving Patterns

How the shawl is woven, also determines how much does a real Pashmina cost. The diamond weave is the most expensive type, followed by twill weave and basket weave. Jacquard weave is also one special type that is usually saved for weddings or special occasions. A tighter weave will be more pricey than a loose one

In general, Pashmina shawls. in their solid exterior would value around $300, patterned and printed might go $350, embroidered shawls range from $800 to $10000 or more. The world popular Kani shawls value ranges from $1200 to $5000 or more. This is just an average. The values might be lesser more far greater than the above mentioned.

Explore Pashm's collection of luxury Pashminas HERE.

Why is Real Pashmina Expensive

Before knowing how much does a real Pashmina coat, We need to understand real Pashmina vs fake ones. Real Pashmina, renowned for its unparalleled softness, warmth, and elegance, is more than just an art form. It is a product of meticulous craftsmanship, sustainable practices, and a limited natural resource. The high cost of authentic Pashmina is justified by several key factors, including the labor-intensive production process, commitment to sustainability, and the balance between limited supply and high demand.

Labor-Intensive Production Process

One of the primary reasons real Pashmina is expensive is the labor-intensive nature of its production. The process begins with the collection of the fine undercoat wool from the Changthangi goats, which are native to the Himalayan regions of Ladakh and Kashmir. Artisans carefully hand comb this wool from the goats during the molting season, so that the animals remain unharmed. After collection, the wool undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to remove impurities.

Spinners then spin the cleaned wool by hand using a traditional spinning wheel, or "charkha," to create fine Pashmina threads. This process requires immense skill and patience, as the threads are delicate and need to be spun to the perfect consistency. Next, weavers weave the hand-spun threads on traditional handlooms, a process that can take weeks or even months, depending on the complexity of the design. The intricate patterns and embroidery, often done by hand, add to the overall time and effort invested in each piece.

Sustainable and Ethical Practices

The production of real Pashmina has roots in sustainable and ethical practices, which further contributes to its cost. The traditional methods of collecting and processing Cashmere wool are environmentally friendly, with minimal impact on the ecosystem. The herders and artisans involved in the Pashmina trade often follow age-old practices. These practices passed down through generations, ensuring that the goats and the environment are treated with respect.

Moreover, the ethical treatment of the artisans is a significant aspect of Pashmina production. Many artisans work in cooperatives or small family-run businesses, where owners pay them fair wages for their craftsmanship. The emphasis on ethical labor practices ensures that the artisans can sustain their livelihoods while preserving their cultural heritage.

Limited Supply and High Demand

The rarity of the Changthangi goat's wool and the labor-intensive process involved in making Pashmina result in a limited supply of authentic Pashmina products. These goats inhabit specific high-altitude regions, and each goat produces only a small amount of wool annually. This limited supply, combined with the growing global demand for luxury products, drives up the price of real Pashmina.

As more consumers seek out sustainable and ethically produced goods, the demand for authentic Pashmina continues to rise. This increased demand, coupled with the scarcity of genuine Pashmina wool, contributes to the high cost of the final product.

In summary, the high price of real Pashmina is a reflection of the laborious craftsmanship, commitment to sustainability, and the rarity of its raw material. Investing in a Pashmina piece is not just about acquiring a luxurious item; it's about supporting a tradition that values quality, ethics, and environmental stewardship.

How much does a pashmina shawl cost in Kashmir?

The cost of a pashmina shawl in Kashmir can vary widely depending on factors like the quality of the Cashmere, the craftsmanship, and the design intricacy. On average, authentic pashmina shawls from Kashmir can range from $80 to $500 or even more. However, prices can vary even further based on factors such as the shop you're buying from, the specific design, and whether it's a traditional handwoven piece or machine-made.

It's important to purchase from reputable sellers to ensure the authenticity and quality of the product. For the most accurate and up-to-date pricing information, it's recommended to check with local retailers or online shops that specialize in Kashmiri pashmina products.

Is Pashmina Worth the Investment?

When considering "how much does a real Pashmina cost", it's essential to understand what makes it a worthwhile investment. Beyond its luxurious feel and timeless appeal, Pashmina offers significant value in terms of durability, versatility, and cultural significance.

Durability and Longevity

One of the key reasons people consider Pashmina a valuable investment is its remarkable durability and longevity. Authentic Pashmina, that artisans craft from the fine Cashmere of the Changthangi goat, is famous for its strength despite its delicate texture. When properly cared for, a genuine Pashmina shawl or scarf can last for decades, retaining its softness and warmth through the years. Unlike synthetic fibers or lower-quality wools, Pashmina resists pilling and fraying. This property makes it a piece that can be passed down through generations. This long-lasting quality ensures that the initial cost of purchasing a Pashmina is offset by its enduring value, as it remains a staple in your wardrobe for years to come.

Versatility in Fashion and Use

Pashmina’s versatility is another factor that makes it a sound investment. Its lightweight yet warm nature makes it suitable for various climates and occasions. Whether draped elegantly over an evening gown, wrapped casually around your neck during a brisk autumn day, or even used as a cozy wrap during travel, Pashmina effortlessly adapts to different settings. The wide range of colors, patterns, and designs available means that there’s a Pashmina to complement any outfit, making it a versatile accessory that enhances your wardrobe.

Moreover, Pashmina’s ability to be styled in multiple ways - whether as a shawl, scarf, or head covering - adds to its practical value. Its versatility extends beyond fashion, as it can also serve as a luxurious throw or a statement piece in home decor.

Cultural and Emotional Value

Beyond its physical attributes, Pashmina holds significant cultural and emotional value, particularly for those who appreciate craftsmanship and heritage. Each Pashmina piece is a testament to centuries-old traditions, with artisans in Kashmir and Ladakh dedicating their skills to create these exquisite items. Owning a Pashmina is not just about possessing a luxurious fabric; it’s about connecting with a rich history and supporting the livelihoods of skilled artisans who continue this legacy.

For many, Pashmina carries emotional significance, often becoming a cherished item passed down through families as an heirloom. The sentimental value attached to Pashmina, combined with its cultural importance, elevates it beyond a mere fashion accessory, making it a meaningful investment.

Investing in a real Pashmina is about more than just luxury. Its durability, versatility, and deep cultural roots ensure that it’s a purchase with lasting value, both in your wardrobe and in your heart.

Conclusion

When considering the question, “How much does a real Pashmina cost?” it’s crucial to weigh the costs and benefits to make an informed decision. The price of an authentic Pashmina reflects its exceptional quality, the intricate craftsmanship involved, and its cultural significance. While the cost may seem high at first glance, understanding what goes into creating a genuine Pashmina reveals why it is worth the investment.

First, consider the durability and longevity of real Pashmina. Unlike cheaper alternatives, a genuine Pashmina will last for years, maintaining its softness, warmth, and elegance with proper care. This durability ensures that your investment is not just for a season but for a lifetime, making the cost per wear remarkably low over time.

Next, think about the versatility in fashion and use. A real Pashmina can be styled in various ways and worn across different seasons and occasions. Its adaptability in both casual and formal settings adds significant value, making it a versatile staple in any wardrobe.

Lastly, reflect on the cultural and emotional value of owning a Pashmina. This is not just a purchase of luxury; it’s a connection to a rich tradition of craftsmanship and artistry. Supporting the artisans who create these beautiful pieces adds an ethical dimension to your investment, contributing to the preservation of a centuries-old art form.

While the question “How much does a real Pashmina cost?” is important, the true value of Pashmina extends beyond its price tag. By weighing the costs and benefits, you’ll see that a real Pashmina is more than just an accessory—it’s a timeless investment in quality, culture, and sustainability.

Pashmina scarves are exceptionally warm, soft, and timelessly elegant winter wraps that are handcrafted to keep an individual warm and stylish in colder seasons (fall and winter primarily). These scarves are made from a natural fibre Cashmere, which is acquired from the undercoat of Ladakhi goat. Cashmere has some features which are rare to find and which makes it revered all over the world. Perhaps that is the reason why it was and still is revered in almost all parts of the world.

Pashmina scarves have enjoyed royal patronage since the 16th century when they were discovered for the first time. It was Empress Josephine, who wore a Pashmina scarf for the first time, and made it a timeless fashion accessory. Ever since Europeans are fascinated by the sheer grace and gossamer finesse of Pashmina, and still want to own at least one piece of it. And even though many nations around the world offer Cashmere, but it is Kashmir, the Cashmere of where remains the most enshrined and treasured of all

Here are some amazing qualities of a Pashmina scarf, for which it is cherished by every admirer of traditional art.

Pashmina scarves - made from exceptionally warm Cashmere

The Ladakhi goat is found in Ladakh, in a region called Changthang. This region is situated 14000 feet above sea level and experiences harsh weather conditions. It grows Cashmere as a down fibre, which is extra smooth and warm, and this downy fleece helps the goat to withstand a temperature of- 40 degrees. It is the exceptional warmth of this fibre that makes this possible. Hence the fibre is considered special, as it is feathery light, yet so warm that it survives the animal at the harshest of temperatures.

Pashmina scarves are totally handmade 

The raw wool is spun on a wooden charkha or spinning wheel, which converts wool to long yarns. These yarns are then handwoven to the fabric. Hence, every procedure which the raw fibre goes through is carried out by hand. There is no intervention of machines, and the entire process is manual. 

As many as a hundred families are associated with just one Pashmina scarf. Starting from the acquisition of raw Cashmere, to spinning, weaving, embroidery, ironing, packaging, every single practice is done by labour, from a different family. 

Cashmere yarn is extremely fine 

The diameter of a Cashmere yarn is 12-16 microns only. That is around one-fourth of a human hair. Please note that human hair is 50 microns. Such finesse in the yarn is unmatched, and that too when it is manually done. Sometimes the yarn is not visible to the naked eye. It is just the masterly skilled and decades of experience of the womenfolk of Kashmir, which help them spin such yarn with ease and perfection.

Pashmina is a family affair

As many as 50 families and a few hundred individuals are associated with just one Pashmina scarf, which makes it more valued. Pashmina weaving and spinning is not a job for people here in Kashmir. It is an act of worship, which these people do to save the art from extinction. It is pure reverence and emotions attached to the art of Pashmina, which makes people want to be associated with it. 

In the past, when the Kashmiri economy went too low, and people began to suffer, it was this art of Pashmina which survived them. Thousands of families and individuals took Pashmina making as a job and earned well when it began to be exported to Europe. Hence the makers are still attached to the art, as they remember the times when Pashmina was the only source to keep their family affairs going.

Embroidery takes years and years

If a Pashmina scarf is embroidered at all, then it might take a few years to complete one piece. It again depends on the embroidery pattern. If the shawl has to be fully embroidered, then it might take three years. But if patterns are lighter, then a year or two are enough. The embroidery is again done by hand with the finest threads and needles. Artisans have pockmarks all over their hands, as they have been doing it for decades together.

Kani weave is a weaving pattern in Pashmina, and Kani shawls are well known all over the world. Kani shawls look embroidered, but it is the colourful weaving patterns that make them look so. The meticulousness of a Kani shawl is such that a Kani jamawar shawl takes five years to be completed.

Cashmere from a few goats makes just one scarf

It takes the fibre from 2 goats to complete one Pashmina scarf. And since the goat is difficult to find and is extremely rare, the value of a scarf might seem exorbitant. But when one looks at the labour that goes into making the scarf, the value seems perfect. 

As much as the size of a Pashmina increase, it takes more wool to complete. Large Pashmina shawls from women need wool from three goats. Larger shawls from men or apparel made in Cashmere would need wool from five to six goats to complete

One Artisan for One Scarf

If an artisan, working on a full embroidery shawl passes away, it either takes a lot of time for other artisans to understand the same. Or the shawl remains incomplete forever. There have been a large number of instances when incomplete shawls have been found in some artisans’ places, and when asked about the same, they narrate the ordeal of their father or grandfather passing away in the middle of the work. Hence one Pashmina scarf can be considered as an exclusive product of imagination, that only belongs to one individual, in this case, its embroidery artisan.

Price of a Pashmina scarf

Is not just more or less embroidery or motifs that decide the price of a Pashmina scarf. The price of a Pashmina scarf depends upon a number of factors that usually sellers, as well as buyers, ignore, and later wonder why the scarf is expensive. Some of the factors which decide the price of a Pashmina scarf are:

Ply

Ply indicates the density of fibre used. A single-ply Pashmina scarf would mean that basic thread is used in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply would indicate that fibre is double twisted. Two-ply is more pricey, as it gives more strength to the scarf made. A single-ply scarf would be more delicate.

Count

Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that can be spun per gram. The more yarn count the thinner, the smoother and more precious is the scarf. Hence 100 count Pashmina scarf would mean that one gram of the shawl 100 meters of the yarn, and hence the fibre would be more delicate. This type of Pashmina would be more expensive, as the finer the fibre is, the more painstakingly it is made.

The thickness of the fibre

How thick the fibre also determines the price of Pashmina scarves. The finer the fibre used, the more pricey the scarf becomes. Also, surprisingly, it is said that the finer the fibre, the warmer the shawl is.

Weaving Patterns

Weave patterns also determine the price of Pashmina scarves. The diamond weave is the most expensive type of scarves in Pashmina. These are followed by twill weave and basket weave. Jacquard weave is also one major type that is usually worn to weddings or special occasions. Again a tighter weave will be more pricey than a loose one

Fake Pashmina Scarves

As soon as Pashmina got immense fame and recognition all over the world, a few deceitful traders started to produce fake scarves or crafted Pashmina over machines. In both cases, the originality is lost. If Pashmina is mixed with a nylon or silk thread, it loses purity as well as worth. The same is the case when processed over powerlooms. Power looms may be a lot more efficient and faster than handlooms, but handwoven Cashmere is what the art of Pashmina is all about. 

Also read: 7 Tests to Identify Genuine Pashmina

Worth of a Pashmina scarf

A pure Pashmina scarf, on average, will be worth US$120 - 300 (dimension is 200 cm x 35cm). It also depends on purity. This was the price of a 100% pure scarf and not an amalgam of silk or nylon. Unfortunately, many deceptive sellers have hiked prices but sell fake scarves. It is important to ask the seller for a certificate of authenticity. If he is not able to produce one, then he might be a fraud. Nevertheless, plain scarves will range from $120 to $150. If the scarf is patterned, printed, or laced, it will rise in price. Embroidered scarves might even be priced at $300.

It is crucial to check the purity of a Pashmina scarf while buying it. Only pure Pashmina scarves deserve expensive tags because it is them which have been handcrafted laboriously by proficient artisans who work for years together to craft every exclusive piece. Buying a Pashmina is an investment, and should not be wasted to purchase a fake scarf

You might ask a person why choose a traditional Kashmiri shawl over a modish wrap accessory. But you might not be aware of the fact that traditional apparel has its own grace. Let's hear from our fashion experts why they suggest Pashmina, and how ethical fashion is the new way to style.

Almost all of us have purchased a new accessory, which even before we return home, earns our dislike. We might like it for a season or two. But then it just lies there in the darkest corners of our room, never to see the sunlight again. This is a problem with fashion fads. They might blend with your personality or look completely strange. Baggy pants, colorful jeans, feathered hats, and patterned boots might seem chic in a store. But as soon you reach home, all this suddenly turns crazy and attention-seeking. Unfortunately, there are seasons when one has only invested in trendy outfits, and of a sudden, a formal event appears. That's when a sustainable outfit will help.

There are many good reasons to incorporate sustainable goods in our formal and festive wardrobes; if not in our daily wear. If we are careful enough with them, these pieces have the power to make us the best version of ourselves. Apart from holding on to our culture, there are many more reasons to choose sustainable apparel. 

Reasons to go for sustainable apparel

Comfort

It was long before the industrial revolution and the machine age when synthetic fibres took over, that cultural outfits existed. Pashminas were always made of natural fibre and were hence sustainable. This property makes them comfortable, easy to wear, environment friendly and so comfortable. Synthetic fibres try to reincarnate sustainable natural ones. But always fail to copy the exact sophisticated looks that a traditional outfit would exude.

Timeless

Sustainability is never out of style. Traditional outfits, which existed before machines took over, are still wearable and carry an innate grace within themselves. Slow fashion, ethical practices, and the use of hazard-free techniques were the key to making traditional outfits. This kept these outfits alive for longer. Even if sustainable fashion is a bit on the high side of the price scale, but its timelessness makes it perfect for every period of time.

Help local artisans and communities

In the current scenario, sustainability is only prepared by artisans who are in their old age now. The machine age sure took away from them their fame and jobs pushing them into poverty. But it could never snatch from them their adept skill and painstaking efforts that modern apparel never experiences.

Hence, if we invest in more sustainable outfits, be it an accessory made of natural fabric, we are helping the local community survive. We are assisting our brethren to prosper once again. 

With regards to traditions and sustainable fashion, Kashmir has its own glorious history to offer, and cultural apparel to swoon over. Not just apparel, Kashmir has a history of rich embroideries, fabrics, accessories, jewelry patterns, and many artistic treasures to flaunt. Yet there is something about Kashmir, that the entire world is swooning over. And it has been so from the time it was first discovered. We are talking about Kashmiri Pashmina Shawls.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the Kashmiri art of handcrafting luxury shawls, wraps, or apparel from the finest Cashmere fibre. It comes from the undercoat of the Capra Hircus goat found in Ladakh. The fibre is natural. Artisans acquire it in a cruelty-free environment. It is then handcrafted by the artisan community without the use of machines and power looms. Hence world-famous Pashmina is a perfect example of sustainable fashion, and that is what we have to offer.

The making of Pashmina is complex and meticulous. Every year, the goat sheds its hair naturally, and herders collect it. They then clean and sort, spin and weave it, to come up with a luxurious and warm fabric called Pashmina. From this fabric, Kashmiri shawls, stoles, scarves, wraps, or hijabs are crafted and sold all over the world. The fabric has kept Kashmiri traditions alive for ages now.

History of Pashmina

It was in the 17th century when a traveler passed by a beautiful valley on the silk route. The traveler noticed that local nobles and affluent people wore a type of shawl. The shawl was exceptionally luxurious and graceful. It was given as a gift to kings and queens of other countries as a sign of respect or allegiance. The group of travelers decided to call it Cashmere (from the place of its origin Kashmir). Locally it is known as Pashmina, and it is this luxury craft that has awestruck fashion designers and celebrities alike. 

When talking of traditions, the Pashmina shawl is one of the most essential ingredients of a traditional wedding. A mother gifts her daughter a number of Kashmiri shawls as she embarks on a new journey of life. It is considered a lucky charm and blessings from elders which the bride takes along to her new home. 

Earlier it was either only brides who wore Kashmiri shawls or affluent women who wrapped themselves in expensive pieces. But since modernization took over, Pashmina was woven into more wearable pieces. Plain shawls, printed stoles, or the ones with less embroidery came into being. This step was welcomed by local artisans who appreciated the incorporation of ancient traditions into the everyday lives of women.

Also read: 5 types of hand embroideries for Kashmiri shawls

Do Pashmina goats die for Pashmina? Are Pashmina goats killed for Cashmere? Is Pashmina banned? These are some common questions that are continuously asked by customers. These are responsible citizens of the planet and abhor animal cruelty. This section of the society is not necessarily vegans but does not want to be wrapped in something which has been a part of killing or hurting a living thing. But the answer to all these questions is a simple NO. Pashmina is cruelty-free, animals are not killed for Pashmina, and hence, Pashmina is not banned. To know the reason for the ban on this kind of wool, we today dig deep into the making of Pashmina and see for ourselves why Pashmina is cruelty-free and in fact ethical to have.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of transforming Cashmere wool into luxury wrap accessories. This raw Cashmere is acquired from Ladakh in a region called Changthang. A peculiar species of the goat is found on the Changthang plateau which has been named the Changthangi goat, or the Changpa goat (its herders are called Changpa), or Pashmina goat. To survive the harsh climate that this region experiences (a temperature of -40 degree Celsius in winters). nature has bestowed the goat with protection. This protection is exceptionally warm wool which grows on the Pashmina goat's body as a down fibre (underbelly, neck, and some sensitive parts of the body). The wool is so warm that the goat roams freely even in the freezing cold. 

As soon as summer arrives, the goat becomes too uneasy. It hence rubs itself with rough surfaces to get rid of it, which does the job, but not to its satisfaction. Herders, seeing the uneasiness of the goat, immediately call professionals, who come to the goat's rescue. With the use of specialized tools, professionals gently comb off the wool from the goat's body and set it free. This wool is fine Cashmere, and upon processing it is converted to Pashmina shawls, stoles, scarves, and even apparel.

Processing Cashmere from Pashmina goat- Raw Wool

Raw wool is sent to Kashmir, where women take a few parts home and spin it over a wooden spinning wheel called Yinder. This transforms the lump of wool into fine threads of Cashmere, each just 12-16 microns in diameter. These threads are handed over to men weavers, who hand weave the same into shawls, scarves, and stoles. There is minimum wastage, the processes are all manual and the end product lasts for a lifetime.

The process of acquiring wool from Pashmina goats is not cruel, as we can see. So the animals are not killed for Pashmina. Only the wool is separated from its body by gently combing it off. This portion was any way left on the body after the Pashmina goat has tried its best to naturally get rid of it. The hair is not plucked or even sheared. It is softly removed and no pain is inflicted upon the animal. Pashmina is cruelty-free. And so Pashmina is not banned. In fact, it is being sold under the surveillance of the state and central government. Pashmina making is a major source of livelihood for underprivileged families in the Changthang region. And any cruelty towards the Pashmina goat will directly affect the families' livelihood. 

However, there is something which is banned. There is a kind of wool that is cruel. There is a kind of wool, which involves killing the animal it is acquired from.

Also read: What is Real Cashmere?

Shahtoosh Wool

Shahtoosh literally comes from two terms 'shah' meaning 'king' and 'toosh' meaning 'wool'. It actually is the king of all varieties of wool. It comes from the fine hair of the Tibetan Antelope and is the finest and one of the most expensive varieties of wool in the world. But even after being an ideal winter wrap, shahtoosh is banned; its possession and sale are illegal in most countries. The reason behind the ban is the animal it comes from. Chiru is an endangered species under CITES.

Chiru Goats or the Tibetan Antelope

Living in one of the most rigid and severe environments on earth, the Tibetan antelope is found at an altitude of over 5,000 metres. But much like Pashmina, a special type of down fur, being light and excessively warm, allows them to survive in freezing conditions. Chiru goats are migratory animals, and they move from Mongolia to Tibet and gather at the plateau at one point in the year. It is this part of their movement where nomads wait for their appearance, every year. These nomads hunt the antelope for their skin, meat, horns, and mainly the fur - Shahtoosh

Shahtoosh shawl exists from the time of King Akbar. Under his rule, it was considered the warmest and the most luxurious piece of fabric. It was so soft that it could pass through a finger-ring. earning it the name 'finger shawl'. Shahtoosh would be naturally colored, and people preferred it like that, without the urge to dye it in brighter shades. 

Ban on Shahtoosh

Hence, we see that it is Shahtoosh wool which is banned because it leads to animal cruelty. The Tibetan antelope is killed, and the nomads who do so take its horns as trophies for themselves as a mark of pride to have hunted a Chiru. Environmentalists argue that even if it was possible to extract the wool without actually killing the animals, snatching their protective cover amounts to “cruelty", as the cover protects them from biting cold of the Tibetan plateau.

Nevertheless, Shahtoosh trade was banned globally in 1975 under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), granting the antelope the highest level of protection. Otherwise, three to four chiru goats would be killed to make a shawl, that would be allegedly sold for $1000 to $5000 and sometimes even up to $20,000 in the international market. One adult animal yields about 125-150g of wool. Unfortunately, some traders still carry out the trading of shahtoosh shawls. They manage to sell it secretly to irresponsible customers who ask for the same, just for the sake of showing it off.

Pashmina goat wool is not Banned

For Pashmina the story is different. Firstly, Pashmina goats are domestic and not wild. Hence, herders do not need to kill them, but simply hold them during the hair removal process. Secondly, the hair is removed partially by the goat itself and completely by professionals around the month of April. During this time, the temperature has already gone up, and the goat doesn't need any protection, as winters are over. Pashmina is far from being cruel. These goats are the only source of livelihood for the Changpa nomads. Hence, the goats are not killed for Pashmina. 

Pashmina is not banned and has never been. It is sold all over the world openly. But it has been confused with the Shahtoosh shawls as both are called Kashmiri shawls. But Pashmina is ethical, sustainable, and of course the most beautiful creation of human hands. It just bestows its grace to the wearer, besides covering them in exceptional comfort.

Veganism, or the state of being vegan, is a modern stance against animal oppression and cruelty. People who are vegans do not use any of the products associated with animals. Be it food, clothing, researches, or entertainment, vegans avoid animal exploitation as much as they can. 

This means that vegan ideology followers eat plant-based foods and would not prefer animal products like chicken, meat, etc. Similarly, vegans do not wear wool, snake leather, suede, or other materials that come from animals. This would mean that vegans do not wear Pashmina, since it is an animal fiber. Vegans believe that any kind of wool associated with cruelty to animals and hence it is better to avoid it.

Why Veganism?

Veganism is getting more and more popular. That because people have realized it to be better for health, environment, and more ethical. They believe that if they consume eggs and dairy products, they might be promoting the meat industry. That is because once dairy cows and egg-laying hens become too old, they are sold for meat. Yet there are others who avoid these items because of the inhumane conditions which take place during their production.

Many vegans choose this lifestyle in order to promote a more ethical and humane world. They want a world where animals would never be treated as they currently are. This category of individuals believes that it is their responsibility to create an environment where none is treated in a cruel manner.

Veganism and Vegetarians

Vegetarians are the category of individuals who refrain from the consumption of meat, eggs, dairy products, and other animal-derived foods. Vegetarians are also known as dietary vegans, who avoid animal-derived food. The reason is that their production causes suffering to animals in addition to their premature deaths. 

Toiletries that Vegans use

Vegans use products that are vegan instead of those which are made from animal remains. An example of vegan toiletry is vegan dental floss which is made from bamboo. Even if products that have animal ingredients are less expensive, vegans pick the expensive ones. They believe that after animals are killed, the remains are put in toiletries, especially the fat.

Vegans and Pets

Some vegans are serious enough to follow veganism in even pet food. If they rescue an animal and pet them for a while, they make sure the pet food is vegan too. However, this practice is widely criticized. This is because dogs and cats are carnivorous, and it might be harmful to their overall health 

Vegans and Clothing 

As far as clothing is concerned, vegans never use clothing made of silk, wool, fur, leather, snakeskin, or any animal product. As we know, leather is made of animal skin, which can be only acquired by killing or being cruel to the animal, hence being abhorred by vegans. Vegans prefer linen, polyester, rubber, or artificial leather (pleather like mushroom leather)

Is Pashmina vegan?

To understand if Pashmina is vegan or not, let us go deep into the making of Pashmina. 

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps, shawls, and scarves. The raw material for Pashmina is fine Cashmere wool which is found in Ladakh. This goat is called the Changthangi goat and is found in Ladakh. It grows Raw Cashmere wool in winter to survive the extreme temperature. (which goes down to -50 degrees), not to forget the Changthang region is located over 40000 feet above sea level. The Cashmere wool protects its body from the freezing temperature until summer.

Acquisition of the wool

Come summer, the same wool makes the goat extremely uncomfortable and it becomes unbearable for the goat to carry it. Herders gauge the discomfort of the goat. With the help of professionals, they comb the wool off the goat's body and make it free to roam again. Some portion of the wool can be found in the surrounding areas which the goat itself leaves by rubbing itself against harsh surfaces. That because it is itself feeling a certain level of discomfort. Hence, on one side we can say that Pashmina is not vegan, because even if it is made in the most ethical fashion, yet comes from an animal. Pashmina is not cruel. No living being is harmed during the entire process of obtaining wool from the Pashmina goat. But it does not support veganism, because veganism doesn't approve of any product acquired from animals, ethically or unethically

Is Pashmina Cruel?

On the other side, as far as the basics of veganism are concerned, vegans disapprove of animal products because those are associated with cruelty to animals. But when we take a look at the making of Pashmina, we see there is no cruelty associated. In addition to this, if at all Pashmina production reduces, it will be detrimental to the animal itself. The only source of income for the herders who rear Pashmina goats in Ladakh, are the goats themselves. They sell raw Cashmere with which they are able to survive themselves, their families, as well as feed these goats.

But if at all Pashmina production decreases, how will the goats and their herders be able to survive. They will have nothing else to depend upon because rearing Pashmina goats is all they know. Hence if you are a vegan, and do not want to wear Pashmina scarves or shawls, take a closer look at the process. If possible visit Ladakh once, and see for yourself the process by which Cashmere reaches you. 

Contrarily Pashmina is Sustainable

As opposed to the belief that Pashmina is cruel and shouldn't be used by vegans, Pashmina actually supports the idea of sustainability. To start with, it is acquired ethically, without causing any suffering to goats. Next, it is manually processed by artisans, and no use of machines is involved, thereby contributing nothing to air pollution. In addition to these, Pashmina art empowers underprivileged sections of society by giving them a chance to earn through their handwork. Pashmina is handmade by men and women who belong to a more impoverished section of Kashmiri society, and by investing in Pashmina, one can help support these individuals.

Lastly, Pashmina scarf or shawls stay for a lifetime. If your Pashmina scarf is pure, it will be your company for more than 20-25 years. In Kashmir, mothers used to give their daughters their own Pashmina shawls, which their mothers would have gifted them at their wedding some 20 years back. And the shawls are fresh, intact, and beautiful as ever.

Also read: How are Pashmina Shawls made?

The paradise on Earth, Kashmir, is abundant in natural picturesque scenic beauty spots. Apart from this, it is abundant in the most beautiful handicrafts. The rich and exquisite handicrafts are another feather in the hat when one talks or writes about Kashmir. This is why Kashmir is famous all over the world. And it's not a thing of pride for just Kashmir, but the entire nation (India). This is because handicraft accounts for a significant income of the country. It plays a vital role in improving the economic setup of a nation. Besides, it plays the role of a helping hand for local artisans. 

Pashmina and the Artisans:

The art of Pashmina has always been the biggest support and a boost for the livelihood of artisans. This art was introduced by a Persian Saint in the valley. Since then, artisans have been closely associated with the same. The art form earned the artisans their livelihood and improved their lifestyle drastically. Pashmina shawls soon became world famous and so did the artisans. When the shawls were sold at high prices, the artisans got good returns for their work. So much so that this community, which was a few years ago one of the most downtrodden, was suddenly the most famous!

Pashmina artisans received fame as well as strong incomes in just a few years. Hence the maximum population of locals joined the Pashmina team, and started their careers in Pashmina making. Women took up spinning of the Cashmere fibre. This is because it was possible to do the same from the comforts of their home. This made household work as well as earning money easy and simultaneously for them. Some women excelled in hand embroidery as well. Men, on the other hand, took hand weaving and embroidery. Weaving would be done on large handlooms which were to be installed in factories. Large handlooms couldn't be installed at homes, and hence men left their homes for the factories early morning. A few men artisans took up embroidery and excelled in the same, with some flawless pieces to flaunt. 

What does Pashmina mean (Pashmina Definition)

Pashmina refers to the art of handcrafting exquisite pieces of wearable apparel or wraps with fine Cashmere. Cashmere is found in Ladakh, India, where the Changthangi goat grows it. The term gained prominence when it was discovered for the first time in the 15th century. Since then, it has been the first priority of the royals, members of the noble courts, the affluent, and some patrons of classic art. Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are well known all over the world. This owes to their finesse, gossamer touch, and exceptional warmth that they lend to their wearer

What does Pashmina mean literally?

The word pashm comes from the Persian language and literally translates to "soft gold". The term comes after the visible smoothness, warmth, softness, and aesthetic attributes related to the final products which are crafted using raw Cashmere. It is coined in Persian as it was Shah I Hamdan, who discovered Pashmina for the first time in Kashmir. Let us go deep into the history of Pashmina, and know everything about what this luxury is.

History of Pashmina

Pashmina has a rich history. The existence of Pashmina has been there since around 2500 BC. At that time, it was only the kings, queens, and other royals and elites who wore Pashmina shawls. Gradually, commoners, who became ardent fans of the art form, started purchasing Pashmina shawls. And even if it meant saving a lifetime of savings, . When it was released by the producers of Pashmina, they started handcrafting Pashmina products at lower prices. These products included small scarves, or shawls which included sheep wool with Pashmina (semi-Pashmina shawls). This way commoners could afford to wear Pashmina. 

Not just local Kashmiris, many popular figures all over the world were in love with Kashmiri Pashmina shawls. King Akbar, Jahangir, and Empress Josephine (wife of Napoleon) area few examples. In Europe, Pashmina shawls gained prominence when Empress Josephine set these into a timeless fashion. It was Napoleon who gifted her a Kashmiri Kani Pashmina shawl; it impressed her so much that she ordered a few hundreds of the same. Many centuries later, Princess Dianna was spotted wearing Pashmina scarves. Nowadays Celebrities around the world prefer Pashmina to other categories of wool. This owes to its delicate texture, smooth finish, and exclusive warmth it lends.

The Art and the Artisans

Because Pashmina enjoyed a glorious reputation all over the world, the artisans too benefited from it. This community of exceptionally skilled people got a boost in their personal lives. They also saw an immense growth as far as their earnings were concerned. They were invited by countries all over the world, and requested to train the local artisans in the same. This grew their confidence, and they were empowered in performing much better, even though the tasks were tiring. Hence the rich history of Pashmina can be attributed to the unending efforts that artisans put into it. Additionally, the purity and finesse of Ladakhi Cashmere, plays a huge role. 

Pashmina in Kashmir (Pashmina Definition)

It is essential that we know the history of Pashmina in Kashmir. Pashmina definition in Kashmir was the luxury shawls that artisans produced in years. But very few individuals saw the great efforts that were hidden behind the shawls. Pure Cashmere from Ladakh was manually acquired and then processed for months or years together to produce luxury shawls. Note that this technique was indigenous to Kashmir. No nation around the world could process Cashmere like Kashmiri artisans did. It all started when Syed Ali Hamdani arrived.

It was the 15th century when Kashmir's economy was in great trouble. People didn't have jobs to do and earning was much harder than it is today. And then came the day when a Persian Saint by the name of Shah I Hamdan visited the valley. He did this numerous times, and on one tour to Kashmir, he brought with himself 700 skilled craftsmen. These craftsmen were masters of a number of crafts. These included wood carving, silverwork, Papier Mache, Copper work, and many other crafts that Kashmir is well known for today. But one of the crafts gained more attention than the others. That was Pashmina making.

Pashmina over other art forms

A large number of local craftsmen chose Pashmina. This owes to the way it was acquired, processed, embellished, and later worn. The craftsmen also realised that even a small bit of the fabric fetched a lot. And ever since it has been the backbone of the Kashmiri economy. Those artisans learned, and then their offspring learned the same. That is how Pashmina traveled generations together. Till now, there are artisans, with decades of experience, who are associated with Pashmina making. It is the same art form that Shah I Hamdan trained their ancestors in, five centuries back. Yet the art hasn't lost a tad in its grace, quality, and warmth.

The Coming of a Saint

Syed Ali Hamdani arrived in the valley to teach the locals the religion of Islam. But he brought with himself a group of skilled craftsmen. Along with religious teachings, the craftsmen trained locals in a number of art forms. This included papier mache, carpet making, walnut wood craft, wicker willow craft, and more. But the one that almost all of the locals chose was the art of Pashmina shawl making. The reason for this was the popularity of Pashmina art, and how women as well as men swooned over the final products. The income of Pashmina artisans was handsome. Many were able to tour foreign countries with the help of this art. 

Even though the making of Pashmina is a meticulous task, which includes a number of complex processes, artisans never stopped. Since the 15th century, till now, artisans continuously follow every single step in the making of Pashmina shawls. The reason for this is their love for the work. Making Pashmina shawls is a passion for the artisans, and hence it never tires them physically or mentally. 

Making of a Pashmina Shawl

Processing Raw cashmere to luxury Pashmina shawls is a wondrous process. It takes days, months, or years together and the efforts of hundreds of craftsmen to craft one Pashmina shawl. Here is a series of the processes that one has to follow to arrive at a beautiful Pashmina shawl.

Step 1: Fibre Harvesting

Raw Cashmere grows on the body of a Cashmere goat which is found in Ladakh. The goat grows it as a defense mechanism against the harsh cold that the region experiences. It is during the spring season when the goat sheds this undercoat. It starts to rub itself against coarse surfaces (stones, bushes, and walls) to get rid of the hair naturally. Some of the hair is lost in the process which is collected later by its herders. The rest of the portion is removed by the process of combing. It is done by professionals who bring along specialized combs and tools and make sure the animals aren't hurt in the entire process. Hence the combing off of the undercoat. of goats is fully ethical.

When the entire hair is gathered, it is then cleaned as it contains impurities like dust, sand, vegetable wastes and other types of contamination that are attached to it. It is then sorted according to certain parameters, the first one is the colour. Cashmere fibre can also be sorted on the basis of fibre length and finesse. Finer, longer and white Cashmere fibre generates more return than rough, short and coloured fibre.

Step 2: Dehairing the Fibre

Pashmina goats produce double fleece. This means the raw wool we get after combing is a mix of fine hair (which is Cashmere) and guard hair. Using special equipment, the two of these are separated from each other. The guard hair should be absolutely absent before processing. If the presence of guard hair is more than 5%, it affects the quality of the final product.

Step 3: Spinning the Fibre

The collected fibre is sent to Kashmir, as Ladakh does not have Pashmina artisans available locally. As soon as it reaches Kashmir, it is spun by hand, which is locally known as Yinder. Before spinning, the fibres are placed in containers filled with rice powder, which adds more strength, shine, and softness to it. Hand spinning is a painstaking and time-consuming process. It requires a lot of skill, patience, and immense dedication to the work.

Step 4: Weaving the spun Yarn

We all know now how delicate Pashmina yarn is. Hence no machine in the world can process it without damaging it. There might be shawls that have been woven on power looms, but they are a mix of silk and Cashmere, hence impure. Weaving pure 100% Cashmere shawls are done on handlooms. Two people sit across the handloom, and in a few days, a shawl is handwoven completely. Weaving is considered an art in itself, and for centuries, craftsmen have passed on the art to their younger generations.

Step 5: Dyeing and Embroidery

After the fibre is handwoven and it is a complete shawl, scarf, or a luxury wrap, it is to be dyed in desired colors or patterns. People might like their shawls in the natural colors that Cashmere has, and indeed the basic colors are really graceful, but Pashmina is flexible enough to hold any other dye. Pashminas shawls are dyed manually. Most of the time vegetable dyes are used which are azo-free and metal-free, but that is not always the case. chemical dyes are used as well.

After dyeing Pashmina shawls, they are sun-dried and sold in handicrafts markets. Or else they are sent for embroidery

Embroideries on Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina is a delicate fibre, and therefore the embroidery to be done over it must be delicate as well to protect the underlying gentle base. There are specialist artisans who have decades-old experience in the embroideries they are associated with. Usually, three kinds of embroidery patterns are limited for Pashmina. They are as follows:

Sozni Embroidery

Sozni embroidery is preferred the most as it consists of thin needles and fine threads which the embroidery artisan moves in and out the wrap as he embroiders his masterpiece. This kind of embroidery is the lightest and hence can be done all over the shawl without damaging the base.

Papier Mache Embroidery

Another type of thread and needle embroidery is the Papier Mache embroidery. It uses thicker threads and protruding motifs to give a deeper, colourful and more artistic effect to the base. These type of shawls are mostly used on special occasions like weddings.

Tilla Embroidery

The last type is Tilla Dozi, which is the most elite and royal manifestation of any embroidery indigenous to Kashmir. this embroidery was once reserved for the royals only as it used real gold and silver threads to be passed through Pashmina shawls. However, as time passed, it was made affordable for the general public by using metallic wires coated in gold or silver. Tilla shawls are special and are hence used as gifts for bridal accessories.

This is the end of the journey of a Pashmina. After embroidery, it is passed on to dealers who sell them to the admirers of these classic wrap accessories. People from all over the world have been patrons of this traditional art and have wanted to own at least one piece. Pashmina shawls are considered a social status, as these are heirloom pieces with a huge value.

Popularity of Pashmina Shawls all over the world

Kashmiri Pashmina shawls hold great eminence when it comes to Europe and The United States of America. A number of shawls have been preserved in world-famous museums in these places. Some of them are:

• Map Shawl: The exquisite Map Shawl of Srinagar which was handcrafted in the late eighteenth century is considered one of the most amazing pieces of art on fabric to ever exist. This shawl took 30 years in the making. It is presently at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This was gifted to them by Mrs. Estelle Fuller in 1970 and the specimen as per the Museum was made in 1870
• Another Kashmiri Pashmina Shawl belonging to the 19th century is present at-the-Guimet-Museum-Paris.
• A small piece of a Kashmiri Pashmina Shawl from the late 18th century on display at Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford. the shawl features the ever cherished Buta (paisley) motif.

The Decline of Pashmina

What goes up must come down. When it comes to Pashmina, this expression is absolutely correct. In around the late 1990s, the glory of Pashmina saw a gradual decline, owing to changing preferences, high prices and the usual new styles introduced by locals. Another large decline in the shawl industry was the making of fake shawls. A number of shawl traders started selling pashmina shawls which wouldn't be made from pure Cashmere. They would mix sheep wool, or nylon with Cashmere, yet sell these shawls at the price of Pashmina shawls.

Another large factor for people switching to other shawls was the introduction of machines. The power loom, which was introduced as a competition to traditional handlooms, produced shawls in a few hours, as compared to a few days taken by artisans on a handloom. This would have been a welcome step, hadn't the producers mixed Cashmere with the strengthening fibre to make Cashmere bear the strain of the machine. These shawls, even though produced in less time, were poor quality. A Pashmina shawl lasts for a lifetime, but these shawls couldn't last for 3 or 4 years. This was a blow to local artisans as well as the industry itself. So much so that a time came when already handcrafted products had no buyers. 

Soon the world famous Pashmina shawls had almost no buyers, as it lost the reputation of being timeless and having a long life. Women switched to other alternatives like sheep wool shawls, silk shawls, polyester shawls and more. These were much cheaper as well as stylish. This led to a sharp decline in the economic growth of the nation, and Kashmir suffered as a whole. Women were left unemployed, and men were forced to look for other options. 

Pashmina - Present Scenario

The present scenario isn't very favourable for the Pashmina industry. A large number of artisans who decided to quit the art form had no successors. Hence a meagre amount of artisans are left, but they are immensely skillful. Realising their skill and unmatched love and reverence for this art form, young individuals re-introduced the art of Pashmina by directly contacting these sellers. Some of them are as old as 80 years, while others, who have learnt from these octogenarians are still in their 40’s. This is the community of artisans left, who are trying to revive the art. 

Pashmina.com is one such platform which directly gets in contact with producers of Pashmina shawls, and does not, hence, require the interference of traders, wholesalers or retailers. The best thing about this model is that the returns earned from the shawls go directly in the pockets of these, now underprivileged artisans, who are in desperate need of it. We have managed to sell the shawls at international levels, and hence tried to give the same respect to the artisans 

Pashmina and Pashmina.com

A young man in his 30’s noticed the agony of the local Kashmiri artisans and hence decided to give them a helping hand. Varun hails from Delhi, and it was during a religious trip to Kashmir that he realised the art of Pashmina deserves to be revived in the best way. He started Pashmina.com, and sold some luxury pieces online. Soon men and women all over the world followed the same and hence the website as well the industry got a new boost. It has been just 5 years into the business, Pashmina.com has managed to help more than 100 artisans which includes taking care of their families as well.

Varun supports the education of the artisans’ children, as well as employs their wives, who help with spinning or embroidery of shawls, scarves and wraps. The organisation is a proud assembly of artisans, weavers, embroidery artisans, spinners and labourers. All of these members are respected members of the organisation and together make the art of Pashmina better each day. As such, products that the organisation sells are always hand woven and hand embroidered. The designs are modern as well as conventional. The best part of the products is their quality, and the certificate of authenticity attached to each batch of products that come from Kashmir after a stringent quality check at the Craft Development Institute (CDI), Srinagar.