Also known as the “diamond fibre” or the “king of fibres”, Cashmere has been prized for its smooth touch, immense softness and extraordinary warmth since its inception. The very first documentation of the use of this fine wool dates back to the 14th century. In Kashmir, Cashmere was discovered accidentally in the 16th century by a Persian saint and scholar. In just a few years, Europeans came to know about this luxury fibre, and trade started between the valley and the West. Cashmere gained prominence amongst kings, Emperors, queens and wealthy noblemen and aristocrats in 18th century Britain and France. Cashmere was rare and pricey, and only the affluent could afford it. But is cashmere vegan?

Today, the destruction of fast fashion has made Cashmere similar to any other wool category by blending it with sheep wool, silk, or nylon. Now Cashmere is more affordable, but there is still something concerning people about its contribution to animal cruelty

What is Veganism?

Veganism, or the state of being vegan, is a modern stance against animal oppression and cruelty. People who are vegans do not use any of the products associated with animals. Be it food, clothing, researches, or entertainment, vegans avoid animal exploitation as much as they can. 

This means that vegan ideology followers eat plant-based foods and would not prefer animal products like chicken, meat, etc. Similarly, vegans do not wear wool, snake leather, suede, or other materials that come from animals. This would mean that vegans do not wear Cashmere, since it is an animal fibre. Vegans believe that any kind of wool associated with cruelty to animals is better to be avoided. Hence, there is no term as Vegan Cashmere.

Also read: What is Real Cashmere?

Difference between Vegans and Vegetarians

Vegetarians do not eat animals, but vegans do not even use animal products. This is the core difference between vegans and vegetarians. Vegetarians do not kill animals for the purpose of eating but may eat products that come from them (such as dairy and eggs). 

Veganism can be called a much stricter form of vegetarianism. Vegans tend to be really passionate about animals. This category of individuals does not wear leather or suede as these are made from animal skin. They also avoid the fabrics that are made from animal byproducts, like silk and wool, mainly for the reason that animals are harmed in the making of these. Vegans look for cosmetics that are cruelty-free in their making. As such, they choose lipstick and foundation which are animal fat-free, nail treatments that are gelatin free, makeup removers that are lanolin-free, and similarly every type of product that doesn't contain any animal byproduct

Vegans do not support any form of animal exploitation. Hence they do not visit zoos or aquariums or take part in dog or horse racing. They believe that a better alternative is visiting as well as supporting animal sanctuaries that provide safe homes for rescued animals

Is Cashmere Vegan?

To decide whether Cashmere is vegan or not, we need to check its source. Let's find out what Cashmere is and where does it come from, and if there is a term called Vegan Cashmere.

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the fine undercoat of a rare goat species, which is found in parts of China, Mongolia, Nepal, Iran, Iraq, and India. The Ladakh region of Kashmir, India, produces the finest quality of cashmere in the world. The goat on which Cashmere grows is called Changthangi goat which grows a fine, warm fleece as a down fibre in winter to survive the extreme temperature (which goes down to minus 50 degrees). The wool protects its body from the freezing weather conditions until summer comes. In the summer season, the same wool makes the goat extremely uncomfortable and it becomes unbearable for the goat to carry it.

As herders gauge the discomfort of the goat, they, with the help of professionals, comb the wool off the goat's body and make it free to roam again. Some portion of the wool can be found in the surrounding areas which the goat has rubbed itself. This and the one combed off the goat's body are collected and stored for processing. 

The most popular use of Cashmere is the making of Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, which are renowned all across the globe. We, at Pashmina.com, bring the exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas made from the finest cashmere from Changthang and handmade in Kashmir.

Also read: Kashmiri Artisans | Hands Behind the Craft

Is Cashmere Cruel?

While many believe that Cashmere is cruel, it is not. No animal is harmed in the process of acquiring, sourcing, or processing Cashmere. The Changthangi goat is a domestic animal. Hence herders do not need to kill it for Cashmere. It politely lets professionals comb off the wool from its body, as it itself is in dire need of the same. Also, Cashmere is not sheared but gently combed off using specialized combs and tools. Hence the goat isn't even hurt in the process. 

Is Cashmere Vegan?

Even though Cashmere isn't cruel at all, this does not account for it to be vegan. Cashmere is not vegan. This is because it is an animal byproduct. Veganism believes in avoiding animal byproducts also, and wool is one of them. Hence Vegans strictly say NO to Cashmere, and claim that the same is cruel, although that is certainly not the case. Hence Vegan Cashmere does not exist.

Why buy Cashmere?

It might sound strange that we as responsible citizens of society and the planet still deal with Cashmere when the grapevine suggests the opposite. But that is not the case. The Cashmere products we deal in are checked exactly from its procurement. It is thoroughly inspected if the Cashmere is traded in winter or summer. Summer traded Cashmere is ethical, as these goats have been shorn in summer itself. The Cashmere which traders trade in winters has been shorn off the goats in winters, hence threatening their lives. 

The Cashmere products we bring for you, contribute to slow and sustainable fashion. Our wraps, shawls, and scarves last for more than 20 years. They are made up of Pure Cashmere from Ladakh, and no blending is done during the processing.

Is Cashmere vegan? No. It is an animal byproduct so it cannot be said to be vegan. But the processing of Cashmere is done manually and ethically. As such the weaving and embroidery are done by special artisans, who spend months or years together to prepare one single wrap. No pollution-causing machines are used, and the artisans are paid fairly and timely salaries. As such these underprivileged craftsmen of the valley get encouraged to give proper education to their children and a better life to their families. 

Also read: Pashmina for the Positively Conscious - An Ethical Story

When Pashmina was discovered for the very first time in 16th century Kashmir, it was in its purest form. The reason behind purity was that synthetic fibre did not exist. And that machines had not taken over. But as soon as greedy and dishonest traders began dealing with the luxury craft, they introduced machines like power looms into the manufacturing. Power looms need stronger threads and hence strong fibres like nylon would be mixed with Pashmina to be processed by power looms. And the beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina - which was its premium quality and finesse began to be compromised. Pashmina was produced by many regions, but it was only Kashmiri Pashmina that would have international patrons and admirers.

Present Scenario of Kashmiri Pashmina

The present scenario differentiates Kashmiri Pashmina from its counterparts. While there is lesser production of Pashmina from Kashmir, big giants like China have taken over the market. China produces 70 percent of the world's cashmere production, while Mongolia produces 20 percent. The remaining 10% is produced in other Cashmere producing regions like Afghanistan, India, Nepal, the United States of America, and elsewhere. 

Based on the types of Cashmere, there are three main breeds that are reared over the Mighty Himalayas in Tibet, Nepal, and Central Asia

• Changthangi or Pashmina goat: This is the goat whose undercoat grows Kashmiri Pashmina. It is reared on the Chanthang plateau in Tibet and parts of the Ladakh region
• Malra goat: This breed of goats comes from the Kargil area of Kashmir
• Chegu goat: Cashmere wool comes from the Chegu goat in the Himachal Pradesh in North India
• Chyangra goat: The Nepalese Pashmina goat Chyangra is reared for its Cashmere wool.

Also read: Is Pashmina Vegan?

The Geographical Indication

Out of all these production centres, it is the Kashmiri Pashmina that is considered the best and the finest. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas from this rare cashmere goat species of Kashmir. On 5 August 2013, Kashmiri Pashmina was given the Geographical Indication (GI) as an authenticity certification. It is a mark corresponding to a specific geographical location or origin.

The Geographical Indication acts as a certification that the product has some unique qualities not found anywhere else, enjoys a certain reputation due to its geographical origin, and is crafted according to traditional methods. And since Kashmir Pashmina is the only Pashmina in the world that uses the traditional Charkha (locally known as the yinder) to spin, and traditional handloom to weave the Pashmina, it is hence the most original of all. For Kashmiri Pashmina, GI mark means it is

• Hand Spun
• Hand Woven
• The fibre has a diameter of 12-16 microns

The Geographical Indication has been much helpful for the locals in many ways

• GI Pashmina helped with the prosperity of local artisans who work day & night to produce Pashmina using only traditional methods
• GI Pashmina helps one to identify fake Kashmiri Pashmina wraps; thus preventing consumers to fall prey to false claims of deceivers.
• The king of Wools - Pashmina has to an extent regained its lost glory. 

The deception of the Ring Test

Before industrialization and the introduction of cheap and fake copies of the Pashmina from around the world, no one cared about if the piece they have draped is even real. But since the late 19th century, when the European and American dealers started mixing real Pashmina with imitated copies, everyone began to doubt their highly invested Pashminas. 

Is my Pashmina shawl original? Have I been cheated? These questions have now for decades haunted patrons of traditional shawl making.  It came to the notice of many buyers that to check the genuineness of their Pashmina wraps, one has to pass it through a finger-ring. If it passes, it is an original piece. But little did they have any knowledge about the fallacy of this test. 

Also read: How are Pashmina Shawls made?

The Truth

The Pashmina ring test is not valid. With the invention of fabric softeners, even the roughest of wool can pass through a ring. The ring test was valid for Shahtoosh shawls, but never has the ring test been a parameter for testing the originality of Pashmina. 

Where did the ring test come from?

A renowned corporate house featured an advertisement. In the ad, a trader sells Pashmina to women who inform him about their knowledge of an original Pashmina wrap and that he must not try to deceive them. The women in the ad use the ring test itself to check the originality of the piece. The advertisement did not go well with the people of J&K, who very well knew that the ring test is a fallacy. The ad was misleading and proved to be detrimental for the Kashmiri artisans, whose Pashminas were pure but did not pass through a ring.

How to check real Pashmina?

Since the advent of the Geographical Indication (GI) certification, it has become absolutely easy for customers to identify real Pashmina against fake copies. The first method to check if your Pashmina is not fake is looking for a GI tag. It is somewhere around the corners of the shawl. If you find on the Pashmina GI tag, then you are investing in the purest form of the Kashmiri Pashmina scarf.  Rest assured that Pashmina, GI marked is the purest of all. If you own a GI Pashmina, you do not need to worry about purity or authentication.

However, if there is no GI tag over the shawl, that doesn't mean that the shawl is not original. If your seller provides you a certificate of quality assurance done by The CDI (Crafts Development Institute) Ministry of Textiles as part of Govt of India that certifies each product, the shawl is still pure and original. Pashmina (GI) holds the top position, as far as purity is concerned.

Testing Your Pashmina

You are sorted if you have to buy a Pashmina now since you know what to check with your seller. But what if you already own a Pashmina? Is it original? Is it pure? 

Here is how to find this out

Purity Tests for Pashmina

There have been certain purity tests for a Pashmina wrap which can be done even at your home. Let's go through them and get our Pashminas checked right after this

The Burn Test

Take a piece from the fringes of your Pashmina wrap and burn it.

Now, check the odor of the burnt piece and the texture of the ashes carefully with your fingertips.

If you get a burnt hair smell, then your piece is most likely to be pure. Since Pashmina is made from real, natural hair, it gives out the smell of the same upon burning.

The burnt part of Pashmina should be matte, quite similar to how it was before. 

Weave of the Wrap

Hold your Pashmina wrap against a light source so that its weave is visible.

If you see irregularities and nuances in the weave, your Pashmina is most likely original. 

That is because a machine-made shawl has perfect and regular weave patterns which isn't the case with a handmade. It is these irregularities that make a Pashmina an heirloom piece. 

Too much glow?

If your Pashmina wrap has a shiny surface, then know that it has silk fabric added to it while weaving. Pashmina is a natural goat hair that is matte in its appearance. A little shine is possible as the thread is exceptionally fine, but too much of it shows your product is fake.

It is said that beautiful places carry beautiful things. This doesn't come true more in any other place than Ladakh. It's more like nature has gifted the world with the overwhelming beauty of Ladakh, and gifted Ladakh the overwhelming beauty of heritage Pashmina.

Also read: All You Need to Know About the Pashm Fibre - Pashmina Wool

Cashmere is one of the most luxurious and precious wools on earth. It has an extraordinary feel and experience when worn, and is characterized by its soft, fine, and lightweight fibre. It is the process of obtaining it harmlessly from the Himalayan species of goats that makes Cashmere expensive. Since its advent, pure, and high-quality, Cashmere has enjoyed a high status in the eyes of royalty all around the world. But with the introduction of blended variants, Cashmere became affordable for everyone and lost that reverence and holy status that it held in the past

High-end fashion garments, even now, use Cashmere as their stable raw material. For this reason, it is much popular in the west. The reason for its lush and extravagant nature is its heavenly appearance and feel. Unlike other types of wool, Cashmere is not itchy against the skin. On the contrary, it is blissfully soft, smooth, and feathery light.

Where is Cashmere found?

The largest producer of Cashmere is China followed by Mongolia. These two regions make up for 90% of the Cashmere in the world. diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. Several breeds are present in the world viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats. The finest Cashmere is produced in the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir.

We, at Pashmina.com, make Pashminas with the Cashmere sourced from Ladakh that accounts for just 0.75% of the total Cashmere produced in the world. But its fineness, warmth, and luxurious mien exceed all of the other variants. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there is almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

An exotic species of goat is found in the high mountain ranges of Ladakh, North India. A place called Changthang which lies over 14000 feet above sea level houses this rare species of goat, which is reared by nomadic herders. It is this goat whose wool has been long utilized to craft luxury shawls, scarves, wraps, and other accessories. The goat grows Cashmere as an undercoat over its underbelly, throat, and behind the ears. It is this wool that is painstakingly combed off gently by professionals and herders together. The process is completely ethical and no animal is hurt during the entire process.

Also read: The Trail of India’s Cashmere Goat Men

How is Cashmere procured?

From the Changhthanghi mountain, the beginning of the journey starts. There is the dwelling of rare species of goat called Changra Goats. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. These are mainly herded by the tribe of Changpa. In the Changhthanghi region, the temperature goes to -40°C in winter. Thus, the Changra goats develop an undercoat of thick wool over their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh climate. The wool is thick and soft. It is called Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool of Ladakh is the finest among all the production of Cashmere wool. There are several breeds of goats that produce cashmere wool. But, the finest among all is the Ladakhi Cashmere wool.

Therefore, wool from the goat is collected in the Spring season (around April-May). It is the time when the goat naturally sheds its down coat which allows it to stay cooler during the summer months. This natural process allows the cashmere to be extracted without any harm to the goat. The remaining portion of the wool still attached to the goat’s body is gently combed off and packed to be sent for processing. 

A single goat produces 4-6 ounces (around 150 grams) of wool per year. Hence to prepare one Cashmere wrap, wool from 3 to 4 goats is considered enough. This wool is spun into yarns manually, and handwoven into luxury apparel, shawls, scarves, etc.

How is the premium Cashmere Crafted?

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. Crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is cleaned and soaked. This signifies the outset of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form. The cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to the finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley.

Moreover, the unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. In addition, the Cashmere yarn thus produced confers to the purest and finest yarn of 12 to 16 microns. Thus, the finest Cashmere yarn moves further in the procedure radiating the Art of Pashmina.

Weaving and Designing of the fine Cashmere

After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn into fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn into the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood. The process of weaving is to use Cashmere yarn to create warps and wefts. Thus, producing a whole fine Cashmere fabric.

Therefore, the Cashmere produced is given the required dimensions. Thus, diverse styles like Pashmina Shawls are crafted. After Weaving, the fine Cashmere fabric is given the required dimensions to make it an exquisite accessory for the Pashmina Shawl. There is the process of Dyeing by the dyer in Kashmir to pervade Pashmina Shawls with the tinges of nature. In addition, the Designing begins in Kashmir itself where artisans work manually on each design including patterns, embroideries, embellishments, prints, etc.

Why is Cashmere Expensive?

Cashmere has a number of features that are rare to find and which makes it revered all over the world. Here are some amazing qualities of this luxury fabric and why cashmere is expensive, for which it is cherished by every admirer of slow, responsible, and timeless fashion.

Exceptional Warmth

To withstand a temperature of minus 40 degrees in the cold and arid area of Changthang, the goat naturally grows Cashmere as a down fiber. And with the help of this fine fleece, it survives these grim conditions. That is how warm Cashmere is. This extraordinarily soft wool is believed to be eight times warmer than sheep wool, and three times more insulating. In addition to this, even after being so warm, it is feathery light. The warmth is adequate to provide you comfort in the seasons of coldness. Fine Cashmere is extraordinary wool that has the magical qualities of being the finest yet the warmest. Wearing the Pashmina accessories provide life to the moments of grace by admiring grace as well as protecting from the coldness of the season.

Manual Labour

Cashmere acquisition and processing are all manual. Professionals manually comb the goat to acquire it. Later it is manually cleaned by locals, as well as Kashmiri womenfolk. After cleaning, it is handspun over a manual wooden spinning wheel to transform lumps of wool into yarn. Post this, men hand weave it over traditional handlooms for a few days. If a wrap is to be embroidered, it takes months to years for the completion of those complex designs. At Least a total of 100 artisans pour their heart and soul into one piece of wrap, sweater, or any other Cashmere accessory.

Artisans have been into the craft of Pashmina for ages and they work day and night to craft the luxury of any masterpiece of Pashmina. The hand-spinning, hand-weaving, and hand-designing take up to months and years to craft a single piece of Pashmina. The hand-embroideries, hand embellishments, and hand-woven styles are examples of exquisite craftsmanship. Defining the realm of Kashmir, the artisans have upheave the luxury of Pashmina by their pristine hand-skill.

Fineness of the Fibre

Cashmere, when spun into yarn, gives extremely fine threads of wool. These threads are just 12-16 microns in diameter, which is one-fourth of human hair. This makes Cashmere one of the finest and most lightweight wool types around the world. The fine yarns are so well developed to be worked upon on the handloom to craft the finesse of the Pashmina collection. Beautifully crafted by the hands of artisans, the accessories gracefully get crafted in the valley of Kashmir.

Empowering Underprivileged communities

As many as 50 families are such whose only source of income is Cashmere processing. This doesn't make Cashmere expensive, but more valued and revered by the local community. Womenfolk as well as menfolk of artisans work daily to ensure the greatness of the Pashmina as a craft of heritage. Defining the beatitude of the hand-skill of the artisans, they revive the beauty of Pashmina but suffer under the hands of low wages and no sustenance. Therefore, pashmina.com not only revives the richness of Pashmina but provides sustenance to the artisan community. The part of the amount of each Pashmina accessory supports the unprivileged community in Kashmir to support the human livelihood there.

Limited production

Cashmere is sourced from Ladakh only once a year, as the goat sheds only in the Spring-Summer season. Hence the producers of Cashmere products are dependent only on the quantity that is exported per year. This makes Cashmere products rare and exclusive with a limited supply and a high demand. The Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps. Thus, the production is limited as well the collection is rare and one-of-a-kind. It is believed that once you get your hands on Cashmere products, it is hard to switch to any other type of wool. All the reasons makes the Cashmere expensive in its own way.

Also read: Empowering Pashmina Artisans

Are all offerings of the same price?

Pricing of Cashmere does depend on the quality and size of the product. But there are some other factors that determine the price of Cashmere. 

Sometimes similar looking products are priced differently. But the price variation isn't necessarily due to the difference in purity. There might be other differences as well

• Count: Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that can be spun per gram. The more yarn-count the thinner, the smoother and more precious is the scarf. This is the reason why Pure Cashmere is more expensive. 

• Ply of the fibre used: Ply indicates the density of fibre used. Single-ply cashmere wraps would mean that basic thread is used in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply would indicate that fibre is double twisted. Two-ply cashmere wraps are more expensive than single ply, as more fibre is used to craft it

• Thickness of the fibre: How thick the fibre also determines the price of Cashmere wraps/shawls. The finer the fibre used, the more expensive the cashmere scarf becomes. In fact, it might be surprising, but it is believed that the finer the Cashmere, the warmer it is. 

Once you experience the feel of Cashmere, you will know that the prices are very well deserved. Cashmere deserves all the respect and attention as well as a special place in your luxury wardrobe of winter staples. 

Also read: 500 Years of Timeless Fashion - Pure Pashmina

Luscious, luxurious, and exceptionally soft, Cashmere is one of those fabrics which one wants to feel more than wear. But many of us did not yet get a chance of doing so. So we take you on the journey of how Cashmere feels, how is it made, and where does it come from.

Where does cashmere come from?

The soft, fine, and luxurious fibre of Cashmere come from a certain species of prized goats. These goats are found in Northern India in a region called Ladakh, where the rare and exotic Changthangi goat lives. It is this goat that grows luxury fine fleece over its body, which is later processed to become Cashmere sweaters, shawls, wraps, scarves, mufflers, socks and other accessories. 

Cashmere is processed in Kashmir, and this is the place where Europeans saw it first. From Kashmir, large exports of Cashmere products took place in the 18th to 19th centuries. 

Also read: The Kashmiri shawl: Early History and Literature

How is this fine wool processed?

Cashmere is combed by specialized tools in the springtime, which is the moulting season for the goats. It is the time when the goat is naturally losing its undercoat. This is raw Cashmere, and it comes from the goat’s belly, the underside of the throat, and behind the ears. Wool is collected in small pouches and it is later cleaned thoroughly to separate guard hair and other dirt attached to it. 

To meet the high-quality standards that Cashmere is world-famous for, the diameter of the spun yarn has to be 12-16 microns only (a human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns). This wondrous fibre even has the insulating capability, which makes the finished product three times more insulating than sheep wool. 

Production of Cashmere

The 90% of cashmere of the world is found in China, Mongolia, and Nepal. Only 10% comes from India and others Asian countries. The finest Cashmere is obtained from the Capra haircuts species of goats found in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, India. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our collection of luxury Pashminas from this finest Cashmere. The annual yield from one Changthangi goat is roughly 150 grams. This makes the wool quite rare. For a large-sized women’s shawl, (200*100 cms), fleece from at least 3 to 4 goats is required. The same is required for a thin full-sized Cashmere cardigan. A goat that has the capacity to yield higher amounts might be chosen to prepare large sweaters, and if the quality has to be the best, then the goat’s underbelly fibre is chosen. 

Perhaps now we know that the high prices of Cashmere are very well deserved. Be it the labour-intensive process of acquiring and processing the raw fiber, the low yield per goat, or the exceptional softness and warmth of the final product, Cashmere is indeed the king of fibres. 

Why should we invest in it?

There are so many reasons why we should own at least one Cashmere product in our lifetime. While women might be indifferent to it because of its price, or dubious about its quality, there are plenty of them who are just curious. So we give them some good reasons to buy Cashmere today.

It is warmer than wool

Why invest in a thick woolen scarf or sweater, when you can be more comfortable with a lightweight, fine Cashmere one. Yes, Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep wool, and lighter in weight too. This makes it the first preference while shopping for winter.

It is breathable

Despite being one of the warmest products in the world, Cashmere is quite breathable. One would never feel too hot in a Cashmere product, as it has great insulating properties. 

Is Cashmere Itchy?

This question surprised us too. When one of our customers asked us “Is Cashmere itchy?”, we were startled, because there is nothing as soft and smooth as Cashmere. As compared to sheep wool, Cashmere is far less itchy. 

However, Cashmere is a natural fibre, and some of you can be allergic or sensitive to it. If it is so, you can cover it underneath with cotton or silk layering. 

What does it feel like?

Cashmere has a heavenly feel. It has an exceptional softness and it is lightweight and downy. It gives a person that kind of experience which he/she probably hasn't felt before. Once you wear it, you will forget about all the luxuries the world has.

Also read: Why Pashminas? | 10 Reasons to have a Pashmina

How to Care for Cashmere?

A Cashmere wrap has to be cared about like a baby. From the way you wear it to its washing, drying, and storing, everything is to be done with proper precaution and care.

As far as washing is concerned it is better to wash this luxury fabric with hands. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and a Cashmere shampoo. If you're short of the same, a mild baby shampoo too will work. Soak the product in for 30 seconds and then rinse with cold water. Do not wring

Drying Cashmere has to be natural. Just put your sweater/ wrap over a dry towel and roll the towel to absorb the water from it. Replace this wet towel with a new dry one, and let the gentle fabric air dry naturally

Storing your valued wrap or scarf again has to be a responsible process. The place where you store your precious piece has to be clean, dry, and disinfected. Do not store it in plastic as plastic helps grow moisture. Instead wrap it in large tissue papers, to keep it dry and safe. 

Can a Cashmere Wrap Stretch?

Yes, these wraps can stretch and get disfigured. This is the reason why it should not be wrung after washing. Also, a Cashmere wrap should not be hung from a hanger, as it has more drape than bounce. As such, it does not return to its original form. Instead, it should be stored in a drawer in a folded position, or else hanging will pull it down due to gravity and it will get deformed forever. 

If your Cashmere has stretched for some reason, wash it in lukewarm water, reshape it, and dry it flat. There is a possibility that it might regain its original shape.

Concluding, we can say

That is it about the feel and experience that a Cashmere gives you. It comes from the mighty Himalayan ranges to your wardrobes, after treading a painstaking path. Exactly from its procurement to its finish, your luxury product passes through the hands of a hundred craftsmen, who put in their heart and soul into detailing it. It is their love and care that makes it extra special, and worthy of every effort spent to have it.

Also read: How to Care for your Pashmina? | Essential Tips to keep Pashmina new forever

Handmade Pashmina shawl is a 100% pure product. It is finer, tighter, warmer, and more luxurious than the machine-made Pashmina. Since the diameter of pure Cashmere fibre is 12- 16 microns, it is difficult to spin it by machine. The handmade pashmina products that we, at Pashmina.com, source are woven in the diamond-weave technique. This is similar to weaving a European tapestry. The wefts (horizontals), which form the pattern, do not run right across the fabric. Instead, they are woven back and forth around the warp (vertical) threads. You can spot a machine-made shawl by looking at the fringe base. Owing to its making-in the machine, fake Pashmina has unnaturally straight edges. Hence it becomes a pre requisite to know the difference. Real vs fake Pashmina - how to differentiate.

Woven with the finest, softest goat fleece, a pure Pashmina is a thing of beauty. The best fleece is of a natural cream colour.

Looms of Pashmina

In the real vs. fake Pashmina competition, its all in the way Pashmina is processed. If Pashmina is processed manually, the resulting piece is original and pure. However, if machine is put to work instead of an artisans hands, the result is fake or impure/mixed.

Traditionally, Pashmina is a hand-made product. Its weaving is an art that our artisans have learned through generations. Their precision, attention to detail, and overall layout of designs is a matchless talent that deserves admiration. Clearly, the production of hand-embroidered pure Pashmina shawls and wraps is a slow process. Therefore they're available within a limit, and as a result, handmade pashmina products are comparatively pricy.

Traditional Loom - Handmade Pashmina

Loom weaving is an intrinsic part of Kashmir culture. It requires great skill and knowledge to weave intricate patterns on the original Pashmina. Children of traditional loom weavers start learning this art around reaching the age of six or seven years. There is evidence in Indian history implying weaving has held great importance for a substantial amount of time. Weaving is primarily the interlacing of two sets of yarn– warp (length) & weft (width). The equipment that facilitates this interlacing is the loom. Handwoven fabric yields a softer, more comfortable, and durable product because of the human handling of the yarn in the weaving process.

A handmade solid Pashmina shawl takes about 3-4 days to complete. A weaver has to spend at least 8-10 hours on the loom and work continuously to prepare a solid Pashmina wrap. It takes expert skill and utmost meticulous efforts and concentration to develop a pure Pashmina on a handloom. Weavers who work on manual handloom have been doing so for decades. Some weavers have spent 50 years and moreover, the handloom attained masterly skills and have now become experts of the same. It is this craftsmanship and dedication and love of these artisans for the craft of handmade Pashmina that makes these pieces the most sought-after accessories.

Also read: Kashmiri Artisans | Hands Behind the Craft

Power Loom - Machine Made Pashmina

Made on a similar structure, it stands to destroy the very basic art that a traditional loom brings forward. It is a mechanical loom powered by a line shaft that produces fake Pashmina shawls and wraps. It takes some 1-2 minutes to complete one solid Pashmina wrap when made overpower loom. Even Though the power looms have increased the production of Pashmina shawls manifold, the genuineness and superiority of the product have been greatly compromised. With the mushrooming of fake products, there is a serious threat to the existence of original Pashmina shawls in Kashmir. It is just handloom which produces Pashmina that are real vs. fake Pashminas produced by power looms.

Real Vs. Fake Pashmina

While every seller claims to sell original, authentic Pashmina, identifying real vs fake Pashmina becomes a challenge. For this reason, we recommend buying from authentic sellers and checking the stamp of authenticity before buying a new Pashmina shawl. If however, you already own a Pashmina shawl, there are several tests to identify if they are pure, or not.

Also read: 7 Tests to Identify Genuine Pashmina

Pashmina.com is against machine-made merchandise which is slowly killing the market in the beautiful Kashmir valley. Our endeavor revolves around making the lives of Pashmina artisans better. We are in the industry to endorse their skills, stand for their rights and the art that they create through handlooms.

Pashmina is an art that originates from Kashmir. This art is something that artisans have perfected for centuries now. Processing fine Cashmere to make Pashmina shawls needs hard work, meticulous efforts, and immense patience, and that is what craftsmen display. 

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps, shawls, scarves, and stoles - from fine Cashmere. The finest raw Cashmere comes from Ladakh, and artisans process it in Kashmir, awaiting this gossamer fine wool variant. 

The Source of Pashmina: Changthangi Goats

Pashmina, often referred to as "soft gold," originates from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats, a unique breed found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats, also called Pashmina goats, have well-adapted to the harsh, cold climate of the region, where temperatures can drop as low as -40°C. This extreme environment is precisely what allows these goats to produce the incredibly fine and warm undercoat. Artisans later transform the coat into luxurious Pashmina shawls.

The Changthangi goats naturally develop a thick undercoat during the winter months to protect themselves from the freezing temperatures. This undercoat, or “pashm,” is what makes Pashmina so special. The wool fibers are exceptionally fine, measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter, which is about six times finer than human hair. This fineness gives Pashmina its renowned softness, making it highly sought after in the world of luxury textiles.

Every spring, as the weather warms, the goats naturally shed this undercoat. Artisans then carefully comb the fibre out by hand, ensuring that the goats remain unharmed in the process. This ethical and sustainable method of collecting the wool further adds to the value and appeal of authentic Pashmina shawls. Once harvested, the raw Pashmina wool undergoes a meticulous process of cleaning, spinning, and weaving, often done by skilled artisans who have inherited the craft through generations.

History of Pashmina Shawls in Kashmir

In the 16th century, a saint, named Shah E Hamdan, from Persia, traveled to Kashmir for religious preaching. It was him who discovered Raw Cashmere for the first time in Ladakh. Seeing its softness and smooth texture, Shah E Hamdan ordered a few artisans to make a pair of socks out of this wool. The socks was luxurious and hence presented to Zain ul Abideen, the then king of Kashmir. He too was highly impressed so much that he ordered processing units of Cashmere to be set in Kashmir. Additionally,he ordered Persian craftsmen to train locals in spinning and weaving of Kashmir, and hence it all started from this moment. Later people from all over the world visited Kashmir. A major portion of Europeans visited Kashmir regularly, and later Pashmina shawls were exported in bulk to European countries. 

Also read: What is so special about Pashmina shawls?

What does the word ‘Pashmina’ mean?

The word Pashmina comes from ‘Pashm’. Pashm is a Persian word that literally translates to ‘soft gold’. In Kashmir, Pashmina is the art of transforming soft Cashmere wool into luxury shawls, stoles, or wearable accessories. 

What are Pashmina shawls made of?

Pashmina shawls come of the finest Cashmere wool which comes from Ladakh. Changthang region of Ladakh hosts an exotic variety of goats, which grow Cashmere as down fibre. Artisans acquire this down fibre in the Summer season and process it to make Pashmina products.

How is Pashmina obtained?

Harvesting cashmere wool is a meticulous and delicate process that requires both skill and patience. The wool comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goats, specifically the Changthangi goats of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats develop a fine, soft undercoat to protect themselves from the harsh winter climates, where temperatures can plummet to extreme lows.

Over the mighty Himalayas, the Capra Hircus goat is found in Changthang, Ladakh. For this reason, it is also called Changthangi goat. The goat can survive at any place in Ladakh. But the ones found over 14000 feet are the ones that survive, as well as grow Cashmere. The growth of this fine and ultra-smooth wool is an adaptive response to the harsh terrain where winter temperature falls to -40 degrees. Raw Cashmere has a unique sheen, and fine fibres are as thin as 12-16 microns in diameter. Note that the human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns, and this makes Cashmere about 1/4th of a human hair!

Harvesting the wool : Spring Season

The process of harvesting cashmere begins in the spring, when the goats naturally start to shed their winter undercoat. This shedding is a natural process that aligns with the warming temperatures, making it the ideal time to collect the wool. Unlike other types of wool that herders obtain by shearing, the same people acquire cashmere by hand-combing the goats. This method is both gentle and efficient. It ensures that only the finest, softest fibers are collected without harming the animals.

The finest of Cashmere comes from Changthang, Ladakh where Buddhist nomadic herders (known as Changpas) rear goats. They collect Cashmere by professionally combing the goats in late spring and early summer when goats molt. Herders do not shear goats, but comb them to avoid fiber breakage and to maintain the fibre length.

Once herders harvest the wool, it undergoes a process of cleaning to remove any impurities, followed by spinning and weaving by skilled artisans. The entire process, from harvesting to the final product, reflects the traditional craftsmanship and the deep connection between the herders and their animals, ensuring that cashmere remains a luxurious and highly valued material in the world of fashion.

Processing of Cashmere (Making of Pashmina Shawls)

The art of Pashmina making is an ancient one. But it hardly matters to Kashmiri artisans who have long perfected it. Due to the extremely fragile nature of Cashmere fibre, Kashmiri craftsmen and women have always preferred to use hands while processing it. The strain of a machine would break the fibre, and it would lose its distinctive nature. As soon as Cashmere reaches Srinagar, womenfolk welcome it, and start with its cleaning. They clean the wool by hand, and remove any foreign particle attached to the fibre. Then they place it in a container full of rice powder. This way, it gains more strength and luster. 

After three days, workers remove Cashmere from this mixture and clean it thoroughly. Now they send it to craftsmen, who await its arrival for spinning it. Spinners spin the fibre on a wooden spinning wheel called ‘Yinder’ locally. Spinning transforms lumps of wool into fine threads. As long threads come out of the spinning wheel, handloom workers take it and transform them into luxury Pashmina shawls, stoles, hijabs, scarves, and apparel. 

It takes around 4-5 days for a two-meter-long shawl to complete. It is still in its solid form. Next, it requires embroidery (if requested). There are mainly three types of embroidery patterns in Pashmina. Fine thread and needle embroidery called Sozni, thick thread and needle embroidery called Papier Mache embroidery, and metallic thread embroidery called Tilla embroidery. 

Purity of Pashmina shawls

Unlike hand-spun pashmina, many traders often deal with machine-spun yarn. In such cases, Cashmere is spun in machines. The machine spinning process, however, requires strengthening the yarn by the addition of chemicals. This, in turn, alters the characteristic nature of the fibre. Hence, such kinds of Pashmina shawls aren't as soft and have less life. 

Manual processing of Cashmere results in extra fine, smooth and warm Pashmina shawls. Traditional Kashmiri hand-weaving and hand spinning techniques impart a unique texture to the shawls, which sets them visibly apart from machine-made counterparts.

To qualify for a Geographical Indication certification, it is mandatory that Cashmere is hand-woven from hand-spun in Kashmir. A piece of fabric cannot qualify as a pure pashmina if it is machine-made. 

Also read: Pure Pashmina - Myths and Facts

Pure Pashmina is Expensive

Pure Pashmina shawls are expensive. This is because a few women artisans hand spin the Cashmere yarn, and hence it is scarce. In addition to this, the acquisition of fibre is a difficult task and is often short in supply as compared to demand. Moreover, the manual labour which goes into making Pashmina shawls, makes it more valuable than other types of winter wool. 

At times, Pashmina shawls with full embroidery designs take 4-5 years to complete. 

Comparing Pashmina with Other Types of Wool

When considering luxurious fabrics, Pashmina often stands out for its unparalleled softness, warmth, and elegance. But how does it compare to other types of wool? To answer this, it's essential to understand the unique qualities that Pashmina offers. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of" provides a clue to its distinctiveness. Pashmina shawls come from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goat, native to the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Himalayas. This specific origin and the meticulous process of hand-combing the wool set Pashmina apart from other wools.

Compared to Merino wool, which is famous for its softness, Pashmina is even finer and softer. Merino wool fibers typically measure around 20 microns in diameter, whereas Pashmina fibers can be as fine as 12 to 15 microns. This fineness gives Pashmina its signature smooth texture and makes it much more delicate than Merino, contributing to its luxurious feel.

In contrast to regular sheep’s wool, which is coarser and more commonly used in everyday textiles, Pashmina is far superior in both quality and comfort. Regular wool is typically thicker, ranging from 25 to 30 microns, and can feel rough or itchy against the skin, whereas Pashmina's ultra-fine fibers create a silky, non-irritating touch.

Hence, when asking "What are Pashmina shawls made of," the answer highlights not just the material, but the exceptional qualities that differentiate Pashmina from other types of wool. Indeed, it is a symbol of luxury and timeless elegance.

The Role of Artisans in Crafting Pashmina Shawls

The creation of a Pashmina shawl is not just a process; it's an art form, steeped in centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. When asking, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" one must consider not only the raw material - the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats - but also the skilled hands of the artisans who transform this raw material into exquisite works of art.

Pashmina shawls come from Cashmere wool. Herders painstakingly hand-comb the wool from the underbelly of the goats. However, it is the artisans who elevate this wool into something truly special. Each step, from spinning the wool into fine threads to weaving and embellishing the fabric, requires a high level of skill and patience. These craftspeople, often based in the Kashmir Valley, inherit their techniques through generations, mastering the art of working with this delicate material.

The weaving process is done on traditional handlooms, where artisans meticulously interlace the threads to create the shawl’s fabric. This is a labor-intensive process that can take several days to weeks, depending on the complexity of the design. The true beauty of a Pashmina shawl often lies in its intricate patterns and embroidery, which are also hand-crafted by these skilled artisans. These embellishments, whether simple or elaborate, add a personal touch that machine-made products cannot replicate.

Moreover, the role of the artisan extends beyond technical skill; it is their deep understanding of the material and their cultural heritage that imbues each shawl with its unique character. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" thus encompasses not just the physical components, but the rich tradition, creativity, and craftsmanship of the artisans who bring these shawls to life.

Evolution of Pashmina shawls

Earlier, Pashmina shawls hosted just a few designs. Either Pashmina shawls were hand embroidered, solid, or Kani shawls. But with time, these luxury assets too adapted to modern needs and introduced contemporary patterns into this realm. Chic stripes and checks, Animal prints, abstract patterns, Ombre shades, laced, and Swarovski studded Pashmina shawls too are available today in their purest forms.

Also read: Pashmina Embroideries | The Exquisite Craftsmanship

Why is Pashmina a Luxury Art Form

People have ever since revered Pashmina as a symbol of luxury and sophistication. And it is not just for the material it comes from, but also for the artistry in its creation. When one asks, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" the answer goes beyond just the fine Cashmere wool from the Changthangi goats of Ladakh; it also encompasses the centuries-old craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail that transform this raw material into a masterpiece.

Pashmina shawls are made of some of the finest and rarest fibers in the world, which are painstakingly hand-combed from the underbelly of the goats. This wool is incredibly soft, lightweight, and warm, making it highly sought after. However, it’s the human element - the skillful hands of the Kashmiri artisans - that truly elevates Pashmina to an art form. The process involves delicate spinning, weaving, and sometimes intricate embroidery, all done by hand. Each shawl can take weeks, even months, to complete, depending on the complexity of the design.

The artisans who create Pashmina shawls are not just weavers; they are artists who bring generations of knowledge and cultural heritage into every piece they craft. The designs often reflect local traditions and motifs, making each shawl a unique representation of the region’s rich history. This level of craftsmanship, combined with the rarity of the material, positions Pashmina in a league of its own, far removed from mass-produced goods.

Caring for Your Pashmina Shawl: Maintenance Tips

Understanding the delicate nature of Pashmina is essential for proper care. This is especially when considering "What are Pashmina shawls made of." These luxurious shawls come from the finest Cashmere wool. Herders source Cashmere from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats in Ladakh. This rare and delicate fiber requires special attention to maintain its softness, warmth, and beauty over time.

To keep your Pashmina shawl in pristine condition, start by handling it with care. Avoid wearing it in situations where it can get stained or snagged, as the fine fibers are prone to damage. When not in use, store your Pashmina in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, which can cause the colors to fade. It’s advisable to fold the shawl neatly and place it in a breathable cotton bag to protect it from dust and moths.

When it comes to cleaning, it’s important to remember what Pashmina shawls are made of. It is the delicate Cashmere wool that one should not subject to harsh chemicals or rough treatment. Hand washing in cold water with a mild detergent is the safest method. Gently agitate the shawl in the water without wringing or twisting it, as this can cause the fibers to stretch or break. Rinse thoroughly and press out excess water by rolling the shawl in a clean towel.

After washing, lay the shawl flat to dry on a clean, dry surface, away from direct heat or sunlight. Never hang your Pashmina to dry, as this can cause it to lose its shape. With proper care, your Pashmina shawl will remain a cherished part of your wardrobe for years to come, retaining the luxurious qualities that make it so special.

Conclusion

In exploring the question, "What are Pashmina shawls made of," we've delved into the intricate journey that transforms raw Cashmere wool into one of the most coveted luxury items in the world. The answer lies not only in the fine fibers sourced from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats but also in the hands of the skilled artisans who painstakingly craft each shawl. This delicate process, rooted in centuries of tradition, ensures that every Pashmina shawl embodies the essence of luxury, warmth, and unparalleled softness.

The uniqueness of Pashmina shawls is defined by their exceptional quality and the artistry involved in their creation. The Cashmere wool, known for its rarity and fineness, is meticulously spun and woven, resulting in a fabric that is both lightweight and incredibly warm. What sets Pashmina apart from other types of wool is not just its origin but the care and craftsmanship that go into every piece, making each shawl a true work of art.

Understanding "What are Pashmina shawls made of" also means appreciating the cultural and historical significance of these shawls. They are more than just fashion accessories; they are symbols of heritage, tradition, and the extraordinary skill of the artisans who bring them to life.

As you wrap yourself in a Pashmina shawl, you’re not just embracing a piece of fabric; you’re embracing centuries of history, craftsmanship, and a legacy that continues to be cherished across the globe. By appreciating the origins and artistry behind Pashmina shawls, you can truly value the luxury and warmth they bring to your wardrobe, making them timeless treasures for generations to come.

It is well known to everyone that Cashmere is one of the priciest materials for wraps, sweaters, and other accessories that we use in winter. Being so, it is often associated with the wealthier section of the society, which raises several questions about it. And hence, some come up with questions like “Is Cashmere worth it?”, “Why should I buy Cashmere?”, and more. So today, we figured out the same. Is Cashmere worth the money we pay for it?

Cashmere is world-famous for being one of the finest and the most luxurious materials that the wool industries have to offer. It provides extraordinary warmth and is remarkably lightweight. Given the fact that Cashmere wraps and sweaters are stylish and graceful, these are often seen on runways during fashion weeks around the world. All this makes this fine wool a perfect candidate for every woman’s wardrobe; even if they have the most expensive luxuries lined up for winter. 

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is named after ‘Kashmir’, the valley where it originated centuries ago. Despite China and Mongolia being the biggest producers of cashmere in the world, it is the cashmere found growing on the body of the Capra Hircus goat found in Ladakh, eastern Jammu, and Kashmir, that is of the finest quality. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you the luxury collection handcrafted with the finest cashmere from Ladakh. These goats are peculiar and special because of the harshness of the habitat they manage to survive. The extremely cold temperatures force these goats to grow an additional layer of wool over their underbelly and neck. This fine fleece grows under the rest of their coarse hair coat. This extra layer is Cashmere. It helps the goat survive temperatures of -40 degrees in winter. 

Cashmere is much finer than sheep’s wool. Pure Cashmere has a diameter of just 12-16 microns (that is 12 millionth of a metre). Note that human hair is around 50 microns on average, which makes Cashmere one-fourth of human hair. Being so fine makes it luxuriously lightweight, and unbelievably soft to touch. Moreover, the fibre has a natural crumple, enabling it to trap more air than other wool types. This makes Cashmere 8 times more insulating than sheep wool

Also read: Types of Wool | Know what you are wearing

Where does Cashmere clothing come from?

Cashmere clothing or accessories are handcrafted from Pure Cashmere threads. The wool is acquired from the Himalayas and is later processed manually to fabric which is wearable. Here is a step by step process which shows how to transform Cashmere fibre to fabric, and tells us whether it is worth the hype it gets

Acquisition of Cashmere wool

The first and perhaps the most challenging step is the acquisition of Cashmere wool. The reason is that Cashmere is found over 15000 feet in the Himalayan ranges which is more or less cut off from the rest of the world. A special species of goats called the Cashmere goats are the ones which grow the wool as a downfibre. This wool is warm and hence keeps the goats alive during peak winter season which is otherwise harsh enough for any living being to lose life.

It is this extreme winter when the herders of Cashmere goats rear the animals the best they can. As soon as winters leave and the summer season arrives the goats lose a portion of the wool due to discomfort and the other portion left on their bodies is deliberately lost by them by continuous rubbing against coarse surfaces. Anything left on their body is gently combed off by professionals.

Spinning of Cashmere fibre:

Post acquiring the wool that the Cashmere goats sheds, it is collected by the herders. Herders pack it into small pouches and send them for further processing. The first step in processing Cashmere is washing it. Raw wool is full of dirt and dust and needs thorough cleaning before processing. Thread by thread the lumps of wool are washed off any foreign materials, and hence the raw wool is now clean.

Post cleaning, Cashmere is sent for professional spinning. Spinning of the wool involves transforming lumps of wool to fine fibre (threads) which are ideal for further processing. this is done manually on spinning wheels with high precision and concentration. Due to the high skill of the artisans, the fibre hence produced is just 12 to 16 microns thick. This super fine fibre is now sent for weaving to another set of exceptionally skillful artisans.

Weaving of Cashmere:

Post spinning, the gentle and fine threads of Cashmere are passed on to the weavers who weave it with extreme precision and attention to detail. The threads are mounted on to a traditional handloom which sets the threads in warps and wefts with two or more men manually weaving those. After 3 to 4 days of continuous hard work, a fabric is ready. The fabric can be a Cashmere shawl, a Cashmere scarf, wrap or simply large fabric which can be used to further make apparel. This is the complex process of producing Cashmere.

Post Weaving

After weaving a Cashmere wrap or fabric for a few days, it is time for post weaving embellishments. Cashmere shawls can be embroidered, printed, patterned, or adorned in any way as its admirers want. Embroidery patterns are super intricate and take years to complete at times. There are several embroidered shawls which take 4 to 5 years to complete, and their takers actually wait for time. Printing and patterning takes less time when compared to embroidery. Kani weaving takes most of the time, while plain shawls takes the least time to reach their recipients.

The process of producing Cashmere is really complicated, and hence worth the acclaim and the popularity it has received.

Is Cashmere worth it?

To find out if Cashmere is worth the high prices that its patrons pay for it, we need to see certain factors. This is a serious question that every shopper should ask himself before he sets out to shop for a pricey Cashmere wrap. A Cashmere wrap might cost you double, or even triple the price of a wool one, and you have to wonder whether you really need to spend so much.

Let us look at the factors which make this luxury goat hair expensive

1. Demand is more than Production

The demand for Cashmere wraps is more than its supply and production. That is because the supply is low. The goat which grows it produces just 150 grams of wool in a year. This isn't enough for even a small scarf. Hence 3-4 goats have to produce fleece in order to make one Pashmina shawl. These are the same Pashmina shawls that are of the highest demand all over the world when it comes to Kashmiri handicrafts. This makes demand much more than the production of wool. In addition to this, the Cashmere goat is rare, and there aren't too many left now. This rarity factor makes Cashmere more expensive, and the one who wants the product has to pay more to win it. 

2. Goats produce limited Hair

As stated earlier, one Cashmere goat produces just a few ounces of hair (around 150 grams), which is a little amount when taking the making of large wraps into consideration. Hence wool from as many as 4 goats would suffice. The limited production of this wool adds up to the expensive factor. 

The production of goat hair also depends on the health and natural conditions that the goat lives in. If the goat is healthy and the conditions are according to the goats temperament, the goat produces normal hair. But if the goat falls sick, or migrates to a place where the requirements aren't met, less hair might be produced.

3. How is Cashmere collected?

The making of Cashmere wraps is one of the most intensive processes in the world. From its acquisition from the Ladakh region to the completion of a product, Cashmere wrap-making involves as many as a hundred men and women. 

As soon as the moulting period starts in Spring, the goat sheds its wool, and herders collect it. There is still a portion of the same left on their bodies which some professionals collect. This wool, being full of waste materials and dirt, is manually cleaned in Ladakh, as well as on its arrival to Kashmir. Women, then, take the clean wool for spinning and transform lumps of wool into fine threads on a wooden spinning wheel. Later, these threads are mounted on wooden traditional handlooms, where they are handwoven into wraps, scarves, and other accessories. 

If wraps are to be embroidered, that too is done by hands. Sometimes it takes even years to embroider a wrap. Kani shawls takes 4 to 5 years to complete, while plain solid shawls take around a week to reach its customers.

This extreme labour work by artisans who have decades of experience and acquired skill makes Cashmere more expensive. Artisans work painstakingly at times, and at extended periods at times, but always complete their pieces in time with an unmatched look and feel. Artisans work together for months or years together, preparing their masterpieces inch by inch, for the ultimate satisfaction of the wearer.

Also read: The Trail of India’s Cashmere Goat Men

4. Cashmere is Season Specific

Unfortunately, this luxury wool is not available all year-round. The moulting season begins in Spring. It is only in the spring and summer season that goats shed their wool, and herders collect and sell it. Hence being available just for a single season in a year makes it rare and worth competing for. 

Retailers often have to wait for months together to get their stock of Cashmere wraps. Till then, they are bound to sell stock from the last season. Fortunately, the wool has immense admiration, and its takers actually wait for even years till the completion of their ordered product.

5. The Timeless Treasure

The best thing about owning a Cashmere is that you can wear it at any time of your life. Even if your wrap is 20 or 25 years old, it never looks withered or shriveled. The more aged a Cashmere wrap is, the more heirloom look it acquires, and the more graceful it looks. 

In terms of quality too, Cashmere never ages. In ancient Kashmir, a mother would give her own Pashmina shawl to her daughter on the day of her wedding, as a gift. And the same would look fresh and carry an antique look, which made it more beautiful. This timelessness too accounts for its high price in the market, as customers sometimes take just one Cashmere shawl for an entire lifetime. 

Is Cashmere worth it?

When asked if Cashmere is worth the fame and desirability it receives from people all over the world, our fabric experts, designers and customers say Yes, without a doubt. Cashmere is a luxury in itself. And as mentioned above there are so many reasons why Cashmere is the king of fibres. From being the most in demand yet the least in supply, to being the most warm yet lightweight, Cashmere is definitely something worth a buy. The purest and best quality Cashmere comes from Ladakh, North India where nomadic herders rear Changthangi goas. These goats give the best quality Cashmere which makes the finest shawls and scarves.

Pure Cashmere is worth every penny spent on it, all the time spent looking for it, and all the attention paid to its buying and styling.

An extraordinary warmth, the feathery light weight, and the versatility of this luxury fibre made us realize that the high prices of Cashmere are well deserved. Being 8 times warmer than wool, featuring the decades old skill of artisans, and one piece taking even 4 years to complete would indeed deserve a high price to maintain its value, as well as to pay homage to the glorious art forms of India.

Also read: Cashmere: For Weddings and Beyond

Fashion changes every season. Yet recently, with the current pandemic, the fashion world had a quiet time with respect to ever-changing fads. But since we have learned to live with it, and with designers making masks, gloves, and face shields a part of their newly curated styles, we know being stylish never has to stop. But isn't following every style a bit tedious? Aren't we tired of trying each and every look that rises from the runways, yet ends up being a part of us for a month or two? Are we not already looking for alternatives that would at least remain with us for some years, as well as keep us going with the contemporary looks. There is. And it is called Pashmina.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the classic art of handcrafting fine Cashmere wool and transforming it into luxury wraps, shawls, scarves, and accessories. These shawls are warm, fine, lightweight, beautiful, and opulent in their demeanour. The entire processing of raw wool is done manually, which includes months and sometimes years of hard labour. This is done by craftsmen who have over decades of experience in their skills. The final outcome of their hard work is artful pieces of wraps, which are ideal to wear in the Spring, Fall and winter season owing to their insulation properties, and versatile nature.

The Timeless Grace of Kashmiri Shawls

Since its inception in the 14th century, up till now, Pashmina has never changed for anyone. It might have adapted a certain part of it with the modern needs and moods, but the art remains as such. Classic pieces present at museums are still swoon-worthy, and women with an artsy taste would still love to wear them. At its home place - Kashmir - Pashmina shawls are handed over from grandmother to mother, and to her daughter, with its elegance and beauty remaining intact. Hence Pashmina shawls have been timeless, but only some patterns have managed to be so. Others have adapted to contemporary clothing and in vogue wearing styles.

Also read: Pashmina Fashion | Take notes from the Retro era

Contemporary patterns  

Even Though, it is still Pashmina, the design has been updated by its makers to suit the needs of women of every age and temperament. Here are some modish designs that Pashmina adapted with

Printed Pashmina Wraps

Pashmina shawls now carry huge prints, digital prints, animal prints, abstract pattern prints, and even customized logos. This wasn't possible 20 years ago, as people just preferred embroidery and Kani shawls

Patterned Pashmina Wraps

Patterned Wraps Modish patterns in Pashmina make them suitable for any age group. Even teenage girls can wear Pashmina to their school functions and get-togethers. Patterns on Pashmina include checks, tartans, plaids, stripes - thin and thick, abstract patterns, polka-dotted patterns, and more. 

Laced Pashmina Wraps

Modern Design Pashmina scarves come with French laces which are hand-stitched onto the base carefully. The laced patch can be stitched either in between the shawl base, or the outer edges, however the designer lokes. These wraps look wonderful on brides or bridesmaids. 

Swarovski Studded Wraps

A new category in Pashmina shawl features Swarovski crystals spread out on a wrap, making it look ethereal. These wraps are perfect for semi-formal occasions or a friend’s birthday party for all ages alike. 

Are Pashminas out of Style?

Earlier, in the past, Pashmina shawls were either plain or hand embroidered or a Kani woven piece. Later came reversible shawls which had their own fan base, depending upon the tastes of women then. But the modern world made Pashmina designers and makers adapt to their needs. This generation would not wear a heavily embroidered shawl to a friend's night out. Nor would we like to shop for a Kani Jamawar shawl, as the occasions in our lives do not demand that much. That would count for overdressing.

Adapting to the modern world has never made Pashminas out of style. The very first piece made of pure Cashmere would be a plain shawl. Later Mughals introduced embroidery patterns and that's when Pashmina got its first embroidery designs. And those classic pieces are still alive. In fact the older a Pashmina shawl gets, the more antique features it attains. Pashminas are not out of style. These are the most beautiful and timeless wraps ever discovered in the world. In fact, these masterpieces haven't lost a bit of their classic regality, or quality. Just like Empress Josephine loved her first Kani shawl immensely, women from around the world would love to have the same pattern. Museums are filled with Pashmina shawls from ancient times, and the pieces are exquisite and absolutely worthy of being worn today in 2021. 

Also read: 10 ways to wear a Pashmina

Pashmina is considered the finest craftsmanship in the world which transforms the exceptionally warm and delicate Cashmere threads into opulent accessories. The fleece of Changthangi Goat, the most exotic cashmere goat, is known as Pashm which is an Urdu word & has origins in Farsi. This goat is exotic and is only found there, 14000 feet above sea level in Ladakh - Jammu and Kashmir, making the art of Pashmina even rarer and revered all over the world. Pashmina has fascinated kings, royals, and people all over the world with its magical allure and traditional grace. Perhaps this was the reason why we chose to showcase the exquisiteness and regal demeanor of this centuries-old art to the world.

Royal Admirers of Pashmina

It's not just today that Pashmina has patronage from around the world. There were times when this art was favoured with royal patronage. Kings, queens, royal families, and nobles all over the world knew Pashmina. In fact, they owned a large number of shawls and scarves.

It was in the 16th century when the birthplace of Pashmina - Kashmir - was under the Mughal rule, that Pashmina was discovered. And the then Mughal kings were swooned by the mere looks of it. Later the aesthetics of this art spread more and French monarch Napoleon Bonaparte gifted his wife, Josephine, a Pashmina shawl. She is believed to have owned a few hundred shawls at that time. In Iran, rulers wore as well as gifted Pashminas within their political practices. Here in India Maharaja Ranjit decorated his court with hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls and Fabric. The present scenario isn't too favourable for Kashmiri Pashmina. Yet Cashmere is even now considered the king of all fabrics which makes it timeless and a heritage.

Also read: What is so special about Pashmina shawls?

Pashmina - From the Nomadic Land of Changthang

The dramatic beauty and the ornamental allure we see on a luxurious Pashmina shawl has a very humble beginning. 

Changthang is the land of the nomads, located east of Leh, about 14600 m above sea level. The area is untouched, unusual, and rare. It seems as if the noise and grit of the city fade till it reaches Changthang's top. Perhaps what makes it so is extreme climate, high altitude, and remoteness. And since these properties made Changthang unsuitable for agriculture, the local nomads started rearing goats - the Changthangi goats. For the goats, these conditions are perfect. It is these goats that grow Cashmere - the same Cashmere which is processed in Kashmir to conceive Pashmina shawls.

Also read: The Trail of India’s Cashmere Goat Men

First developments in handmade Pashmina shawls

In the 18th century, as the demand for the Kani shawls increased, so did the intricacy of the designs. To weave an intricate Kani shawl, it would take two weavers over three years to make, blocking up a huge capital for a long period of time in turn.

To counter this problem, the Kani shawls were woven as per panel designs. Then the different parts of the design were stitched together to form a cohesive shawl.

The 'rafugars' stitched the panels together with such precision that it was hard to tell where the seams were.

This decreased the time taken for an intricate Kani shawl to be made from three years to 6-8 months. But it significantly increased the number of looms used & the Kani weavers working on them.

One rafugar in particular, known as Ali Baba, had the idea of touching up the design & pattern of the Kani with thread & needle using the chain stitch. He was much pleased with the result & proceeded to develop the entire design by embroidery.

Later, he modified it further by using Pashmina thread for embroidery. This improved the final result of both, the Kani & the chain stitch.

Introduction of embroidered shawl

Initially, the embroidery replicated the twill tapestry & required very minute observation to tell the difference between the two.

An embroidered shawl took a quarter of the time to be ready compared to the Kani shawls having a similar body of work. It was hence priced much lower than Kani shawls. As far as looks were concerned, the embroidered shawls were spectacular. The decreased time to make an embroidered shawl resulted in considerably less taxation than the Kani shawls.

With the trend witnessing more elaborate designs for Kani shawls, thereby increasing its cost, the embroidered shawls, with comparatively lower prices started gaining popularity. These embroidered shawls were known as 'amlikar shawls' & originated in the 18th century.

For embroidering the shawls, the design to be embroidered on the shawl is traced out with perforated lines. It is then imprinted onto the shawl using a fine powder in a contrasting colour through the perforations. Once the tracing was removed, the outlines would be visible on the shawl for the embroiderer to start working on. These days, however, the embroiderers may also use wooden blocks with carved-out designs to make the tracings on the shawl.

Embroidery gains fame

The pinnacle of embroidery was seen in the mid-19th century. It was when embroiderers developed a new technique, using which the shawl would have two different colours on either side of the shawl. These were called 'do-runga' shawls meaning two-coloured.

The technique implied imitating the Kani weave on the wrong side of the embroidered shawl. This was done by interlacing a different colored thread through the fabric along the motif to mimic Kani weave.

The making of the do runga shawls is still practiced, however; the do runga embroideries done with Cashmere yarn have ceased to exist in Kashmir after the middle of the 19th century. In fact, this term is not recognized in Kashmir in the present day.

Also read: Empowering Pashmina Artisans

When it comes to buying winter shawls, there are endless types of wool, textiles, and materials to choose from. From scarves made from lambs wool to the ones made from camel’s hair, there’s a lot to choose from. If you want something luxurious, you can try a pure Pashmina product that comes with a hefty price tag. Have you ever wondered why some wools are more expensive than other kinds of wool?

Well, wool refers to the natural fibres obtained from animals, not just from sheep. The softness and finesse and how the wool is harvested determine its cost. When you buy a shawl, you may have come across apparel tags like Alpaca and Cashmere, etc. Knowing these different types of wool can help you understand why one apparel is more expensive than the other. But first, lets understand why people often prefer wool to any other material when it comes to the winter season

Why is Wool the First choice in Winter

When it comes to winter, or any other colder weather day in Spring or Fall, men or women choose wool as the first alternative. The are a number of reasons why this happens. Here are a few:

Insulation

Wool offers strong insulating qualities that help in maintaining body heat. In cold weather, its natural fibres provide tiny air pockets that trap warm air close to the body, acting as insulation and keeping its wearer warm. Additionally, the crimped structure of wool fibres improves their capacity to hold heat.

Moisture Wicking

Wool has a special capacity for absorbing and wicking away perspiration from the body, keeping you dry and comfortable. This is crucial in the winter when sweat can build up on the skin and cause discomfort, as well as possibly making you feel colder. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp, unlike synthetic textiles.

Breathability

Wool is breathable despite being thick and warm. By allowing air to flow, it avoids overheating and excessive perspiration. Because of your body's ability to breathe, you can stay comfortable in a variety of weather circumstances. Wool is a good way to control body temperature in both cold and hot climates. For this reason, as soon as winter arrives, wool is the first fabric that people invest in.

Natural water resistance

Lanolin, a sheep-produced natural wax found in wool, contributes to some degree of water resistance. It keeps you dry and protected in winter circumstances by repelling light rain and snow. Wool clothing is a reliable option in wet or snowy conditions since wool fibres can retain warmth even when wet.

Durability and Longevity

Wool is a material that is both resilient and long-lasting. It has exceptional elasticity, which enables it to hold its shape and fend off creases. Wool fibres are strong and able to resist continuous use and wear without losing their ability to insulate. Purchasing wool clothing of superior quality guarantees that it will keep you warm for many winters to come.

Natural and Sustainable

Wool is a renewable and an environment friendly fibre. The Shorn sheep naturally grow new wool after being shorn. Wool is biodegradable and does not cause environmental damage when disposed of, in contrast to synthetic materials. A more environmentally friendly and sustainable approach to fashion is supported by the use of wool products.

It is these qualities of wool that make it the best option. For being warm and cosy throughout the winter months while ensuring durable and sustainable clothing, wool is chosen over every other fibre as soon as there is a nip in the air

Before you head to make your next purchase, here’s a break down of the different types of wool.

Cashmere wool

Known for its luxurious feel and look, Cashmere is one of the extremely fine wool available. Cashmere wool is produced in a number of regions in the world. China and Mongolia are the largest producers of cashmere in the world and their production accounts for around 90% of the total Cashmere. While the rest of the world products only 10% of Cashmere. The least, yet finest Cashmere production comes from Ladakh. Even though the region produces just 0.75% of Cashmere, yet is it the finest, warmest, and the most smooth version of this luxury wool.

Cashmere from Mongolia and China has a diameter of 15-18 microns which makes it thicker as compared to Ladakhi Cashmere which is as fine as 12 microns. Being of the finest quality and limited in supply, the Ladakhi variant is the most expensive variety as far as Cashmere is concerned.

From the finest hair of Changthangi, a rare goat, found in Jammu and Kashmir, comes Ladakhi Cashmere. The goat sheds its thick and warm fleece during the spring. Despite being so lightweight, a Pashmina wrap is eight times warmer than shawls made of sheep’s wool. Cashmere wool is considered to be one of the finest natural fibers and pure Cashmere products get softer over the years. It is, therefore, no surprise that from the royal families of the yore to the celebrities of the day, everybody loves the warm embrace of a Pashmina shawl.

Merino wool

Made from the wool of a Merino sheep, Merino wool is known for having softer coats than others. Compared to sheep's wool, merino wool is finer and has less than 24 microns in diameter. As there’s only a small window to harvest Merino wool, it’s quite expensive. Though Merino wool is softer than conventional wool fleeces, a Merino product is a tad less expensive than a Cashmere

Also read: How warm is Cashmere compared to Merino wool?

Alpaca Fleece

The Alpaca fleece is the natural fibre harvested from an alpaca, an animal found in South America. This type is ideal for making sweaters, coats, gloves, scarves, and other items. However, as it is not as soft as Cashmere or Merino, other wools are often blended with Alpaca fleece to improve the processing quality. The fleece range from 15-40 microns. The Alpaca fleece is also considered suitable for upholstery.

Mohair Wool

Just like Cashmere, Mohair wool is obtained from goat, however, from different kinds. While Cashmere is obtained from Changthangi goat, you get Mohair from Angora goat. Mohair wool has a silk-like texture and is a lustrous fibre. The wool, which is approximately 25–45 microns in diameter, is used in scarves, winter hats, suits, sweaters, coats, socks, and home furnishing.

Lambswool

The first shearing of a sheep when it is at around seven months of age is called lambswool. The fresh wool is smooth, strong and flexible and doesn’t need much processing. It’s ideal for blankets and bedding. Like all sheep's wool, lambswool is popularly used for good quality knitwear.

How to Wear Wool

Depending on the clothing and the weather, wool can be worn in a variety of ways. Here are some ways to remember about how to dress in wool:

Picking the correct outfit: Wool comes in a variety of forms, including socks, hats, coats, scarves, and sweaters. Depending on the temperature, the situation, and your personal style preferences, choose the suitable wool clothing.

Layering: Wool is excellent for layering in chilly climates. For additional warmth, you can layer a wool coat over a sweater by wearing it over a shirt or blouse or a wool sweater or cardigan. By layering, you can adapt your apparel to the everyday weather changes.

Mixing Different Textures: To give your clothing more visual interest, experiment with a variety of textures and patterns. For instance, match a thick wool jumper with your favourite pair of jeans. To create fashionable and well-balanced outfits, pair wool pieces in solid colours with patterned accessories or go the other way around.

Colour Coordination: Select wool clothing in the colours that go well with the rest of your outfit and complement your skin tone. Black, grey, navy, and tan are a few timeless hues that are adaptable and simple to match. To add a splash of colour to your winter attire, you can also use strong hues or earthy tones.

Wool As accessories: Accessorise your winter ensembles with wool scarves, hats, and gloves for both fashion and practicality. Choose complementary or contrasting colours to go with your outerwear and produce a unique design. To finish off your look, think about a warm wool beanie or a thick knit scarf. Besides keeping you warm and comfy, these accessoires add a dash of colour into your monotone winter outfits.

A Word of Caution

Wool clothing needs to be properly cared for to keep its beauty and durability. Wool may need specific handling, so pay attention to the care recommendations on the label of the garment. It is typically advised to hand wash or run a soft wool cycle with a light detergent, lay flat to dry, and then clean the item. Keep wool out of direct sunlight and high temperatures, since they may cause damage or shrinkage.

Also read: Is it worth buying Cashmere?