Not just a few years, it has been decades since people are mystified about the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina. After all, Pashmina shawls and scarves are such expensive accessories that one should definitely do full research about its originality, pricing, and gain full knowledge about its comparison with other types of wool. But if during this research, one comes up with a number of names for the same thing, he is bound to get confused. Are you buying Pashmina or Cashmere? Is Pashmina the same as Cashmere? If not, is Pashmina better than Cashmere? 

To look for answers, we had to dig deep into the history of Cashmere and Pashmina. When we know the source of something, we can easily differentiate it from other terms. Let us take ourselves back several centuries, and know the origin of Cashmere and Pashmina.

History of Pashmina

It was the 15th century when a saint from Persia visited Kashmir. His name was Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani, and he had come to preach Islam to the local community. On his visit, however, he discovered a rare goat species in the Ladakh area. This goat looked exotic, and produced an exceptionally soft wool type, never discovered before. The saint immediately ordered its acquisition and processing, and when the wool was processed to fine fabric, he ordered socks to be made from it. The socks were of exceptional quality, and the saint decided to gift it to the then king of Kashmir Zain ul Abideen. The king was highly impressed, and soon inquired about this wool type. On knowing its origins, he ordered processing units to be set up to process this fine wool. 

Since it was discovered by the saint from Persia, the wool was called ‘Pashm’, which literally translates to ‘soft gold’. Soon the saint invited a large number of craftsmen and artisans from Persia, who were masters in spinning and weaving wool. They trained the locals to spin and weave this newly discovered Pashm wool, and handcraft shawls, scarves, socks, wraps, and even apparel from this heavenly soft wool. These wearables came to be known as Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, and the like. 

History of Cashmere

As soon as the news of Pashmina shawls and scarves spread around, it reached the farthest corners of the world. Europeans were especially interested in it and soon visited the valley to see for themselves. Upon reaching Kashmir, they were fascinated. They had never experienced such heavenly softness and lightweight fabric that they saw. They decided to take some with them in bulk, and import more in the future from Kashmir. 

Since Europeans could not pronounce Kashmir as locals did, they pronounced it as ‘Cashmere’, which is an anglicization of the term Kashmir. Hence Cashmere was a term that Europeans used to name soft wool.

Difference Between Cashmere and Pashmina

Hence the term Cashmere, as coined by foreigners, is the name given to the fine wool that grows on the goat’s body. Pashmina, on the other hand, is the art of transforming Cashmere into luxury wraps, scarves, apparel, and furnishing accessories. A large number of people use these terms synonymously, but there is a difference. 

Also read: Which country has the best Cashmere?

From Cashmere to Pashmina

Wool is acquired from sheep, but Cashmere, even if it is called Cashmere wool as a general term, is actually goat hair. A rare goat of Ladakh grows it as a down coat on its underbelly, neck, and behind the ears. It is smooth, soft, and immensely warm. The goat grows it as a defense mechanism against the harsh cold that this region experiences (-40 degrees C in winters). The wool keeps it warm and safe. 

As soon as Spring arrives, the goat experiences hormonal changes and starts losing this hair. And in summer, the goat is uncomfortable enough to get rid of it itself. It rubs its body against rough and coarse surfaces, and a large portion of the hair is left in the surroundings helter-skelter. The rest of the hair on its body is professionally combed off with the help of specialized combs. Hence the goat is free, and herders are left with the exceptionally soft and warm wool. 

This fine wool is sent to Kashmir for processing. Processing starts with cleaning this wool as it is full of foreign materials like dust, vegetable remains shrub thorns, etc. It is cleaned by women who take a few days before passing it forward as fully clean. Next, it is handed over to spinners, who spin it on a spinning wheel and convert lumps of wool to fine yarn. The yarn is taken to handlooms, and handwoven for 3 to 4 days to convert yarn to fabric. This complete process is an art form and is called Pashmina. 

These luxury shawls are special

If you have experienced the luxurious touch of a Pashmina shawl, you will have the knowledge of what a heavenly accessory it is. Cashmere yarn, which makes Pashmina shawls, is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Note that a human hair is 50 microns, which makes Cashmere yarn about one-fourth of human hair. It is the finesse of Cashmere that makes Pashmina shawls so fine and lightweight. A 100*200 (B*L) cm women's shawl weighs around 400 grams. It is so soft and easy to carry that it has been used for everyday use. This, however, wasn't the case in ancient times, and only queens and the affluent used it for special occasions or as gifts. 

A Pashmina shawl lasts for an entire lifetime. The present generation is believed to possess shawls that are as old as 30 years. These shawls belong to their mothers, who purchased them in their teenage or early 20’s. But not even a bit in their grace diminished. In fact, it is said that the older a Pashmina shawl grows, the more elegant it looks. Users say that age-old Pashmina shawls acquired an heirloom look, and looked more regal as compared to a newly purchased shawl. 

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Pashmina shawls, or call them Cashmere wraps, are famous all over the world. The goats that produce Cashmere are found around the Himalayas. As such, nations like India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Mongolia and China produce products made from Cashmere, including Cashmere wraps. It is believed that Kashmir, in the North of India, produces one of the finest quality of Cashmere wraps, and locally calls it Pashmina shawls. Our quest for procuring the finest quality of Cashmere wraps and Pashmina shawls took us to the foothills of this scenic wonder. 

When it comes to quality, nothing can stop the team of Pashmina.com from acquiring the best of the best. As such, we went straight to the ‘paradisiacal’ valley of Kashmir and saw for ourselves whatever we had heard about it till now. 

A Trip to Remember

Waking up to the fragrance of fresh bread, chirping of exotic birds, and the sound of freely flowing waterfalls, one might think he slept in heaven last night. But for us, it was our first day in Kashmir - the place where Pashmina shawls are manufactured and aggrandized. The pleasant sunlight fell upon us at around 7 am, and we, the team of Pashmina.com, recalled the reason for our trip to this empyrean land. 

At around 8 am, after a delicious breakfast, we went to the nerve centre of Kashmiri handicrafts - the Downtown area. At this place, Mushtaq Ahmed was waiting for us, to reveal all we wanted to know about the luxury art of Pashmina. We went straight to his karkhana (factory), where breathtaking shawls awaited us. 

Mushtaq Ahmed’s family has been associated with Pashmina shawl making for a long time. It has been over a hundred years and three generations since this family have woven shawls. As such, they know all the artisan types which are associated with the completion of a Kashmiri Pashmina. They also know, and in fact, own some Cashmere wraps from other nations such as Chinese Pashmina. These artisans are super experienced, and with a single touch, they can differentiate Kashmir Pashmina from the rest. As we sat with him, the conversation about Kashmiri Pashmina and its superiority began. Here is the crux of what we realised.

Kashmiri Pashmina - Is it superior?

The bitterly cold days in Kashmir valley left no option for the locals but to produce warm apparel and shawls. While apparel kept their bodies warm, wraps and shawls were added as an extra layer to capture the warmth and keep one comfy in the bleak days. Hence, Pashmina was the best option for the locals, owing to its perfect warmth, ideal for Kashmiri winters. Today, centuries later, it is these shawls that are no more ‘just’ a necessity but the most unique art, that makes Kashmir famous till now. The best shawls in the world made from Cashmere wool are the Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, handcrafted by local artisans. The wool grows on the body of the Himalayan Capra Hircus goat and is considered the finest of all. 

Pashmina wool, or simply Cashmere, is especially beautiful and fine. The fibres are just 12 microns by width and are exponentially gossamer when compared to the most premium sheep wool (24 microns). Don't forget that Pashmina fibres are 4 times thinner than human hair. Hence shawls made from such a fine fibre type are undeniably fine, lightweight, comfortable to carry, and warm. It feels luxuriously smooth against the skin. Pashmina shawls are inherently graceful in their natural colours which are grey, brown, black, or ash.

The Magic of Ladakh

The place where Kashmiri Pashmina goats are found is in Ladakh.  It is Ladakh from where raw Cashmere arrives in Kashmir and gets processed. The specific temperature and atmospheric conditions in Ladakh play a huge role in making the down fibre of the Pashmina goat the way it is. If transferred to other areas, the same goat will produce low-quality wool. All Himalayan Cashmere bearing goats are capable of surviving the harshest temperatures of these cold arid regions. But only the one found over 14000 feet produces the finest wool.

Hence, the growth of the finest wool is an adaptive response to the immensely cruel and barren terrain, where winter temperature goes down to minus 50 degrees C. It is believed that in the 19th century, a surgeon, employed by the East India Company, decided to break North India’s monopoly in having the finest cashmere. He entered the region and secretly took Pashmina goats to Scotland. Out of the 50 goats he took, just 3 or 4 survived, and upon reaching Scotland, they produced the worst variety of Cashmere, much to their surprise. 

Hence, people realised that the best Cashmere wool comes from the Changthang area in Ladakh, North India. A nomadic community known as Changpa is its herder. They comb the bodies of their precious goats in the Spring season when it's their moulting time. Each goat produces an insignificant amount (just 150 grams) of impure fleece, an amalgam of fine and coarse hair called guard hair. In summers, more fleece is collected and sent to a group of middlemen, who trade this wool for basic necessities like grain, tea, and manufactured products with the herders. This is transported to Kashmir, where processing starts. 

Processing Cashmere to Pashmina shawls

Earlier it was animal caravans that brought raw Cashmere to Kashmir, but now it easily comes via air transport. The wool has to be cleaned first. Without cleaning, no finished product can be made. This is done by hand, and it is the immensely skillful womenfolk of the valley who take this responsibility.

Post cleaning, the wool is handspun, again by women. It takes about a week to turn the Cashmere of one goat into fine yarn. Hence the processes have to be repeated three times to make a complete shawl. (Wool from 3 or 4 goats is required for a shawl of standard size 100*200 cm). Hence, it's not just the fine texture and warmth of Kashmiri Pashmina that makes it special, but the processes involved in it. The tiring manual work makes it better than all its counterparts. The skills that Kashmiri women have perfected for centuries have been passed down to generations, and no generation has failed in delivering quality work. This has been the case ever since Mughal patronised this industry and it thrived. 

Kani Pashmina Shawl of Kashmir

When Pashmina shawls from Kashmir gained impetus, it was Europeans who fell in love with this art form. The first and the most cherished piece they took with themselves was a Kani Pashmina shawl. A Kani shawl is considered the most elaborate of all pashmina shawls. It is woven like a tapestry, and small bobbins, around which coloured threads are wound, are worked into the warps of Cashmere. These bobbins are called Kanis, and hence the name. Exquisite Kani shawls from Kashmir feature-rich designs, brilliant colours, and breathtaking looks. It is believed that the Kani shawl ordered by Josphine - the empress of France - took 30 individual artisans and around 9 months to complete!

Around 1800, Kani shawls were immensely popular among women around the world. Empress Josephine herself is believed to have owned a few hundred shawls around the era when the trade of Kani shawls was immense between India and Europe. 

The Shawl industry grew more and more in Kashmir, and this was noticed by one and all. Among those who closely watched the industry establish was Francois Bernier who was a physician of Aurangzeb, the Mughal ruler. He has described Pashmina shawls of Kashmir in the most alluring ways and words. The texture, warmth, softness, and beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, as defined by him, brought fame to the art, and lured French and English toward the valley.

Embroidered Kashmiri Pashmina Shawls

The next best shawls to Kani shawls are embroidered Pashminas. These were introduced around the 19th century. It is believed that a trader by the name of Khwaja Yusuf visited Kashmir, and realised the high prices of Kani shawls. These prices did not let commoners wear them, and the high taxes levied on them prevented profits for the locals. Hence he suggested exporting the less expensive embroidered shawls, which were then called Amlikaar shawls. These were equally beautiful as the Kani shawls, but less expensive and exempted from taxes. 

The popularity of embroidered shawls continues to rule till now. Presently Pashmina shawls are embroidered in three different embroidery types called Sozni Kari, Tilla Dozi, and Papier Mache embroidery.

Also read: Pashmina Embroideries | The Exquisite Craftsmanship

Kashmiri Pashmina for the locals

For centuries, every household in Kashmir has followed the tradition of gifting their daughters Pashmina shawls during her wedding. It is the most significant part of her trousseau. A woman in Kashmir owns 5 to 6 Pashmina shawls her entire lifetime and wears the most beautiful ones at her wedding. Usually, as a part of the culture, young women or girls do not wear Pashmina shawls, but just middle-aged women and the elderly. But with Pashmina shawls adapting to every modern design and pattern, now women from every age group can wear Pashmina. Shawls now are printed, patterned, laced, Swarovski studded, and solid. 

Also read: Incredible Wedding Pashminas

The beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina

A large number of European customers have had a one-on-one conversation with Mughtaq’s grandfather. He explained to us how they were mesmerised by the sheer touch of this shawl. Europeans would simply buy a shawl to keep warm or as an aesthetic layer for their dresses. But they would end up buying more and more and more. Pashmina shawls from Kashmir had something unique in them, and just one shawl would never quench the thirst of a patron of this art. This uniquely luxurious feeling of wearing a Pashmina was one of a kind. 

Why Kashmiri Pashmina is the best?

We didn't need to ask this question repeatedly to Mushtaq, as we were already mesmerised by the touch and feel of a Pashmina shawl. We had seen many with our own eyes now, and those were unbelievably beautiful. After day-long discussions about Kashmiri Pashmina, we could ourselves define why Kashmiri Pashmina is the best of all:

• As we realised, Kashmiri Pashmina has the finest Cashmere used in its processing. This comes from Ladakh, and upon spinning gives the finest yarn whose diameter is just 12 to 16 microns. Such a light thread would result in the most luxurious fabric. 
• Kashmiri Pashmina involves manual work. This work is super tiring, yet skillful and meticulous. From its acquisition to completion, Pashmina shawls of Kashmir demand exceptional skill and hard work, and that is what they get. As a result the shawls are opulent and gracefully superior. 
• The lightweight of these shawls owes to the fineness of the fibre. A large Pashmina shawl from kashmir, measuring 100*200 cm weight under 500 grams. Hence these are easy to carry, wear and store. Pashmina shawls are so light and fine that they can be passed through a finger ring. 
• Timelessness is one of the key features of a Kashmiri Pashmina. A Pure Kashmiri Pashmina shawl can even last for more than 30 years when carefully handled. As such the shawls are a lifelong companion, and look elegant whenever worn. 
• The embroideries done on Kashmiri Pashmina shawls are unique. Pure shawls from Kashmir carry these embroideries exceptionally well, and the combination is like a match made in heaven. Lightweight embroideries like Sozni Kari can cover the shawls profusely, but thicker threads of Tilla Dozi are done around the borders to keep safe the gossamer fine and delicate base underneath
• Warmth from a Pashmina is unparalleled. Women claim that they do not need any extra layers if they are wearing a Pashmina shawl. It reminds them of the pleasant summer sun.

Goodbye from Kashmir

As we left the place, we were overwhelmed with emotions and memories of these luxury shawls. On the way, we saw washers of Pashmina washing shawls on fresh streams of water and striking them carefully over large stones. Many dyers filled the streets who were bestowing shawls with mesmerising colours and shades. Indeed this was an experience of a lifetime. When we started leaving, we felt proud of choosing Kashmiri Pashmina as our core product. As we now look at our pure, luxurious assortments of shawls, we remember this trip, when we came to know that for Kashmiris Pashmina shawls are not mere wrap accessories, but emotions of a lifetime. 

Also read: The Kashmiri shawl: Early History and Literature

On our very first trip to Kashmir, we understood a lot of things, one of the most surprising among which was how Kashmiri women felt about the Kashmiri shawl. Kashmiri shawls are not just mere accessories for women. They have been the basic source of survival for a large number of womenfolk, ever since the shawls were discovered in the 15th century. The making of these shawls was household work, and men, as well as women, would be engaged in it. The underprivileged, widowed women or those whose husbands would be bedridden because of diseases, would earn from spinning fine Cashmere wool to fibre. This was their basic earning. 

While spinners would earn this way, another section of women would sell parts of their shawls if calamities befell. A piece of their Kashmiri shawls would fetch them enough money to survive for a few days. For women like these, Kashmiri shawls are more than a fashion statement. It has been the basic source of income, and the reason their children survived, received education and got white-collar jobs. It has been the reason that they themselves and their families endured the greatest financial crisis during periods of nescience. Hence, Kashmiri shawls deserve and receive huge reverence, recognition, and esteem since then, exactly till now.

Popularity of Kashmiri Shawls

The unending love and infatuation for Kashmiri shawls were actually spread by Europeans, whose royalty was especially swooned by it. Their love for these shawls continued to span generations together, embracing every single individual, of all ages, genders, or temperaments. Kashmiri shawls were like musings for women, and their noble courts exuded the essence and timelessness of these luxury textiles. No doubt, the resplendent shawls of Kashmir are sometimes referred to as the “golden fibre of Kashmir”.

What are Kashmiri Shawls?

With such a powerful backdrop, let us now go back in history, and define a Kashmiri shawl. This luxurious wrap, which is quintessential for your wardrobes, would definitely have an interesting history. After all, it is quite a prestige to have one. The pride one feels to own Kashmiri shawls is simply unsurpassable. These are the heirloom wraps that aren't just precious treasures, but those ageless accessories that one can pass through generations

A Kashmiri shawl is one that is handcrafted from Cashmere wool. The wool comes from Ladakh, North India. It grows as a down fibre to a specific mountain goat that is found over 15000 feet above sea level. The goat grows it as a means of survival against the harsh cold winters in Ladakh but loses it in Spring. It is this season when the wool is collected and processed to transform it into a style statement. It is this manual transformation of lumps of Cashmere wool that makes Kashmiri shawls even more special and makes these a woman’s fantasy.

Beginning of an Era

A pure manifestation of elegance and grandeur, Kashmiri shawls were introduced in Kashmir by the Mughals. It was King Zain ul Abideen, who ordered the commencement of processing looms to manually process Cashmere wool that came from Ladakh. While it all started with solid Pashmina shawls, these luxury wraps adapted to fashions and demands seamlessly. King Akbar introduced hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls and gifted the same to European rulers and kings for a proper endorsement. This was the beginning of an era that knew no bounds. Since then, the industry hasn't stopped growing, and Kashmiri shawls have been diversified, reformed, and well-timed for every generation. And while, at its beginning, these shawls were just a few, today we have hundreds of designs and patterns in which Kashmiri Pashmina is being offered. 

Which Shawl should I wear?

We realise how much you value a Pashmina shawl. Hence we would never like you to invest in one which does not suit your age or the occasion you got it for. Here is a recommendation list for the women out there trying to invest in a Kashmiri shawl, but failing to understand which one to buy. 

Shawls For the Elderly

Ideal for women aged 60-80, we would recommend hand-embroidered Kashmiri shawls. These are super luxurious pieces which feature thread and needle embroideries, and shawls like these take years to complete. Another choice would be wearing Kani Pashmina shawls, that are crafted using a coded pattern, and take years to complete as well. These profusely patterned shawls go well with the elderly and refresh their plain looks.

Also read: Pashmina - Into the Luxurious Kani Weave

For the mothers

Ideal for those who are aged between 40-60 is hand embroidered shawls that look ethereal on moms. These shawls exhibit the hard work of artisans and are hence perfect for our super active moms. Kani shawls too are perfect for this age group, as women love to wear Kani shawls on formal occasions or weddings.

Another category that we think is handmade for our mothers is reversible Pashmina shawls. These shawls have a flaunt-worthy front side and backside, and hence feature two different versions of a shawl in one. 

Shawls or the super busy

Working women need accessories that keep them warm as well as which are easy to carry. Hence, we would not recommend Kani shawls or embroidered shawls for them. For their everyday use, patterned Pashmina shawls are perfect for everyday office use. But for formal events, these women might like to wear a minimalistic embroidered Kashmiri shawl, with a thin border or a Jaali pattern embroidery type.

Spruce up those formal meeting outfits with the classic and brilliant touch of patterned Pashmina shawls which are full of bold and flashy shades. These don't just pep up your looks, but keep you super warm and comfy all day long.

Also read: A Panorama of Patterned Pashmina

For the millennials

Millennials would never like to carry something that is not manageable. For them, we recommend solid Kashmiri shawls, prints, and patterns, laced shawls, or ombre dyed ones. For the millennials, scarves will be more appropriate than shawls. Brights and pastels, prints or patterns, Kashmiri shawls or scarves are ideal for millennials, who focus on style as well as comfort.

Pashmina shawls are an ideal gift for millennials, as this is the most timeless and luxurious gifts one can give them. Its their birthday? They got a degree? They just got a job? Gift them the beauty of the specialist hands of Kashmiri artisans.

The shawls recommended above are not carved in stone. One can easily move beyond these and try for themselves the versatility of Kashmiri shawls.

Kashmiri shawls are the epitome of elegance. These luxury pieces are versatile, timeless, and beautiful. However you wear it, and whichever version of these you buy, make sure to take care of it. These are heirloom pieces that do not have an expiry date. On the contrary, Kashmiri shawls acquire a vintage look as time passes. 

Also read: 31 Celebrities who wore Pashmina

Around the Valley of Kashmir, a desirous craft of Pashmina befit the scenic view. The Valley of Kashmir unravels the unique definition of aesthetic Art. In the form of Pashmina Art, various accessories vividly capture the glaze of luxury. Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Wraps and Cashmere Scarves are the graceful luxuries of Pashmina Art. Being around the world of fashion, believing the hands of artisans, Pashmina Shawls befit the definition. The marvellous making of Pashmina Shawls pertains to the realms of Kashmir Valley. The beauty of the surroundings enthrals each intricacy of Pashmina Shawl.

Cashmere - The language of fine creation

The mountains of Changthanghi in the region of Ladakh feel the cold winter. The essence of waves of coldness prolongs till the time of summer. The creatures around find a way to live in the harsh habitat. The Changra Goats, one of the rare species of goats dwell on the feet of Changthanghi. These goats are grazed by the herders of the Changpa tribe. Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two long twisted horns. They develop rarely fine wool over their bodies in the winter season. Thus, protecting their bodies from the coldness of nature. They mainly grazed for the fine wool undercoat.

Gradually with the change in seasons, the goats shed off the fine wool in the summertime. Also, the herders manually comb out the finest wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. It is the finest Cashmere wool of all the Cashmere production in the world. Therefore, Ladakhi Cashmere is considered the finest wool.

The Rarity of fine Cashmere Wool

There are diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. All the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats.

In addition, the Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. The Changthang region produces around 35,000 kg of raw Cashmere every year from about 0.15 million Changra goats. Also, Cashmere is an exclusive breed that produces fine wool in a specific period of the year.  Only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there are almost 400 million Cashmere producing Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

After procurement, Pashmina Art begins

The finest Cashmere is procured from the region of Ladakh. Thereafter, it is transferred to the Valley of Kashmir in small packets. The tufts of wool in small packets reach the Valley of Kashmir. The first process of Pashmina Art called cleaning starts. The tufts of fine Cashmere wool are cleaned by hands. They are meticulously cleaned to get all the dirt and grime out. Thereafter, the fine wool is dried in the air of sunshine. It is to be noted that all the processes of Pashmina Art are done manually by the artisans and workers of the Valley. Also, the curation of the finest Cashmere from Ladakh in the Kashmir Valley is Pashmina Art.

After the process of cleaning and drying, the next process is Spinning. The fine wool is transferred to the households of the Valley. The womenfolk spin the fine wool to the finest cashmere yarn. They whirl the yinder, a wooden wheel used to spin the Cashmere wool to fine yarn. The womenfolk meticulously spin the Cashmere wool on yinder and craft the finest Cashmere yarn.

After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn into fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. The weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn into the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood.

Pashmina Art - The design of the Pashmina shawl

The design in Pashmina Art is tremendously versatile. The diverse forms of designs propel the artisans to show their skill. The various designs in the Art of Pashmina are miraculous in their creation. The artisans with the hand of heaven marvel at the art of intricacy. The diverse form of Pashmina Art is Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. The luxurious collection of Pashmina Art is marvellously crafted by the artisans. The lifelong craft of the Kashmir Valley bestowed upon the artisans is profound. The further designing of the distinct forms of Pashmina Art is done by versatile artisans. In small workshops or households, the art of serenity is gracefully done by the presence of artisans.

Also read: AN ESSENCE OF THE MAKING OF PASHMINA SHAWLS

The glorious Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina Shawls are the versatile creation of Pashmina Art. From the Changhthanghi to the valley of Kashmir, the unique definition of craft is seen. In addition, Pashmina Shawls are traditional accessories. The versatile nature of Pashmina Art, delivered from the royal ages to the contemporary age is serene. The Pashmina Shawls, intricately woven are explicit. Thus, belonging to the clan of purity and marvellous skill. Pashmina Shawls consider the tranquil being of Pashmina Art. Therefore, the diverse designs of patterns, motifs, weaves, and embroideries prefer the realms of Pashmina Art. Also, the uniqueness preserves the extraordinary elegance of the Pashmina Shawls. Thus, the artisans work endlessly on every masterpiece of Pashmina Shawls.

Pashmina Shawls have a versatile designer collection. There are diverse designs in weaves, embroideries, prints and patterns. Solid Pashmina Shawls, also termed plain Pashmina Shawls are simple vibrant or pastel Shawls. Likewise, the essence of weave in Kani, Patterned and Reversible Shawls are mesmerising in intricacy. Also, Laced and Swarovski Crystals Pashmina Shawls are embellished most divinely. Moreover, the Embroidered Pashmina Shawls are intricately designed Shawls for a luxurious presence. In addition, the contemporary style of Pashmina Shawls has Printed Pashmina Shawls. The exuberant prints pertain to traditional essence in most marvellous ways.

The Versatile Collection

We, at pashmina.com mom, share a beautiful essence of craft with skilled artisans. The unique definition of Pashmina Art is justified in the realms of our online platform. The exquisite collection of Pashmina Art is directly taken from skilled artisans. Therefore, the exuberant intricacy of the Kashmir Valley is bestowed upon contemporary fashion. Hence, beauty is cherished by Art lovers in the form of luxurious Pashmina accessories. Also, the finest Cashmere from the undercoat of Changra Goats is crafted divinely. Thus, the versatile collection confers to the fashion world in numerous ways.

Also read: THE ENCHANTING HUMS OF PASHMINA ART

The lightweight, ‘soft gold’ Pashmina shawls are handcrafted manually, and a number of processes are hence undertaken. As many as a hundred artisans complete one Pashmina shawl. From its acquisition to spinning, weaving, washing, ironing, and packing, Pashmina is a manual affair. It indeed needs patience, manual efforts, and utmost care of these artisans. 

It is noteworthy that exporters exported Pashmina shawls in large quantities to European nations in the 18th and 19th centuries. Surprisingly, women, especially from the noble courts and Royal houses, were in love with Pashmina shawls. In fact, some of them owned over a 100 pieces. And, the only reason for this obsession was that Pashmina shawls were the best quality shawls of this era. Exceptionally lightweight, fine, warm, and beautiful, these handcrafted beauties were unquestionably special and enjoyed everlasting glory ever since their inception.

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl

Even though a solid Pashmina shawl looks elegant and sophisticated, some like a little extravagance in their precious pieces. Among these were Mughal rulers. After all, they were the ones to introduce embroidered Pashmina shawls. They, hence, employed more artisans in the already labour intensive work. Thus apart from the hundreds of golden hands that crafted Pashmina shawls, a few more added. These were super skilled and blessed. 

Soon after washers wash a Pashmina shawl, they send it for embroidery. Without a doubt, embroidering a Pashmina shawl is a labyrinthine process; certain patterns take 4 to 5 years to complete. The world-famous Jamawar shawls are the ones which take the most of the time. 

Three basic embroideries found on Pashmina shawls are 

• Sozni Embroidery (the artistic fine needle work)
• Tilla embroidery (the luxury gold and silver work)
• Paper Mache embroidery (the bold and brilliant threadwork)

Embroidery artisans from Kashmir

On our visit to Kashmir, we met a few embroidery artisans. These were the ones famous amongst the masses for their skillful craftsmanship and creativity. It was, indeed, an honour and privilege to interact with them. One such artisan is Ghulam Ahmed, an 80-year-old embroidery artisan. He is the most experienced one, and 5 generations from his family are associated with embroidering Pashmina shawls. According to him, it is love for the work and immense patience that bear fruits. Moreover, working for the entire day with such perfected skill and devotion is what makes his hand-embroidered shawls truly pieces of art. 

Ahmed works for 6 - 8 hours a day, hence creating labyrinthine and convoluted patterns on handmade Pashmina shawls. Because of the experience, artisans can differentiate between machine-made shawls and handcrafted pure Pashminas by just touching them. Without a doubt, it is the love for the work and the honesty of the artisans with the art that makes embroidered Pashminas such revered and cherished accessories all over the world

Artisans like Ghulam Ahmed started at tender ages. He himself started embroidering Pashmina shawls at 14 years of age and perfected it at 18. Despite his tender age, his shawls would be noteworthy. Now at 80 years of age, he has retired from embroidering shawls. But Ahmed still trains a large number of students, many of whom are his own family members.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Other Artisans

Apart from Ghulam Ahmed, the other artisans we met were active and loved their work much, despite the same being hectic. Even during our interaction, they did not stop and kept embroidering shawls in their lap. The speed and pleasure with which these artisans embroider Pashmina shawls intricately are worth watching. Infact, artisans who embroider Jamawar shawls, spend over 3 years with these shawls. And unquestionably, on completion, they give these away with a heavy heart. “It is a different kind of attachment”, they say. 

The attention to detail of each embroidery artisan is worthwhile. To begin with, the choice of colours, patience, hard work, and then the careful endeavours they put in, have brought laurels to this art form. No doubt, European queens and empresses spent fortunes on buying Pashmina shawls. They, in fact, owned hundreds of embroidered shawls in their lifetimes. 

Types of Embroideries

The beauty of the fine Pashmina is that it manages to host a number of embroideries. But the embroideries should be fine and lightweight, so that the underlying base easily holds its weight. When artisans embroider Pashmina shawls, the otherwise plain bases then exudes a different kind of grace. Even though solid Pashmina shawls are immensely beautiful, hand embroidered shawls are the ones which have a history of fascinating European royals as well as the local Mughal rulers for centuries together.

Sozni Kari

The most commonly found embroidery on Pashmina shawls is Sozni Kari. Owing to its lightweight, Sozni is the most popular embroidery, as the gossamer base of Pashmina holds it with ease. Sozni is a thread and needle embroidery and usually, artisans use silk threads to embroider Pashmina. To start, artisans dip a finely carved wooden block in ink for stamping the shawl with a design. Then they use the chosen silk threads in numerous colours to embroider the shawl. It is just the immensely experienced and skillful artisans who know how to follow the stamp marks. 

At times, more than one artisan embroiders Sozni Jamawar Shawls, and even then, it takes years to complete. In fact, if by chance an artisan passes away, it becomes almost an impossible task to copy the design, and the shawl remains incomplete for long.

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?

Papier Mache

Another form of hand embroidery done on Pashmina shawls is the Papier Mache embroidery. This is a thicker and more colourful version of sozni Kari. Motifs in a Papier Mache shawl are filled with brilliant colours. This embroidery is named after the Papier mache art of Kashmir, as the final shawl looks exactly like a Papier Mache article. The process of Paper Mache is exactly the same as Sozni Kari.

Tilla

When it comes to making Pashmina shawl even more grand and alluring, Tilla embroidery is the art form to choose. This version of traditional embroidery uses metallic threads to embroider shawls. Artisans dip the threads in gold and silver, to create breathtaking motifs over shawls, scarves and wraps. It was Tilla shawls which embellished the royal courts of Mughal kings owing to their regal looks and imposing incandescence which made the courts aesthetic and beautiful.

To handcraft a Tilla shawl, the designer proposes a design, which another worker draws over a trace paper. He further perforates the paper with needles (trombun). Meanwhile workers prepare the ink with sand and kerosene. The trace paper hosting the design is placed on the shawl, and with the help of a specialized duster, the sand mixture is passed on it. This gives the stamp of the design on the shawl, which workers then hand over to embroidery artisans. The artisans use metallic threads, dipped in real gold and silver, to trace the imprinted design. This is the making of a Tilla shawl, which is world famous for its awe inspiring demeanor.

How many artisans embroider Pashmina Shawls?

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl is not like a walk in the park. It is, conversely, an immensely challenging task, which needs full time, attention and skill of the artisan. It takes 4 - 5 years to complete a Jamawar Pashmina shawl, or even more at times, if contingency occurs. But artisans have to give the shawls enough time to get it perfectly ready, for the customer.

Mostly one single artisan embroiders Pashmina shawls. In fact, some believe that if an artisan passes away leaving his work halfway, it is almost impossible to finish the design by other artisans. But at times, when a shawl needs urgent completion in a speculated time, two or more artisans can sit and work. This happens after they completely understand the colour combination previously used. Only after fully scrutinizing the shawl embroidery patterns and shades, another artisan can restart work on it. A large number of shawls have been left incomplete, owing to the extraordinarily intricate work that they started on the shawl, but none of their counterparts could complete it after the original maker passed away.

After embroidering the shawl, washers again wash it and then iron it and finally put it out on sale.

Conclusion:

It was the Mughal kings who introduced Embroidered shawls. They invited around 700 craftsmen from Persia, and many of them were embroidery masters. It is these skilled artists from Persia, who taught locals how to embroider different types of shawls. For this reason, almost all the motifs embroidered on Kashmiri shawls are inspired by Persian art. As such, the paisley motif, several geometric patterns, and hunting scenes from the Persian culture were blended with Mughal-inspired motifs and this blend was visible on Pashmina shawls as well. Nevertheless, Pashmina shawls enjoyed endless glory during this time. In fact, it is the fame and popularity of these times that have cast reflection on the current trends. For this reason, Pashmina still stands timeless and versatile enough to blend into any time period.

Also read: The Cadence in the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The heaven on earth - Kashmir- is not just known for its scenic beauty but also the magical produce of its artisans. As such the handicraft industry of this picturesque valley is famous around the world for the number of products the local craftsmen produce manually. From hand-making kaleidoscopic Papier Mache showpieces to walnut wood art, sculpting copper vessels to weaving majestic carpets, from crafting luxury shawls to braiding wicker willow together, every piece in itself is a masterpiece. But there is one art that outgrows all of the others. It is world-famous and has fascinated individuals from the high society royals of Europe to the local Mughals rulers of 15th century Kashmir. PASHMINA SHAWLS.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls from a fine variety of animal hair. The hair grows on the body of the Himalayan goat found in the Changthang area of the Ladakh region. The goat loses all its hair in the moulting period which is collected and processed to craft shawls, scarves, wraps, socks, pocket squares, and a number of furnishing items. Amongst all these products, it was and is Kashmiri Pashmina shawls that rule the world, owing to their finesse, warmth, softness, and timeless charm. 

Making of Pashmina shawls

Processing Cashmere and transforming it into a Pashmina shawl is not an easy task. It requires great labour, enormous time, and the hard work of a hundred artisans. But the craftsmen of Kashmir have mastered this skill, and when they do it, it looks as easy as a breeze. 

The making of a Pashmina shawl starts with gathering Cashmere that the herders of Ladakh have collected in the moulting period of the Capra hircus goat. It is collected and cleaned partially in Ladakh, and fully in Kashmir by the local women. Cleaning Cashmere needs full attention as the wool is fine and the effort is manual. It is hence cleaned for a number of days by many women and handed over for spinning. Spinning transmogrifies lumps of wool to the fine fibre of just 12 to 16 microns diameter. This gossamer, gentle and delicate fibre is sent for weaving and men weave it to a luxury Pashmina shawl. The shawl is still incomplete and awaits its finishing. 

Finishing of a Pashmina shawl

Finishing processes are many and are again carried out by specialists. A purzgar smoothens the shawl by removing or cutting any superficial fibre attached to the shawl. For this, the shawl is mounted on a frame whose top and bottom are rollers. These rollers roll and push the shawl up or down, thus giving a clear picture to the artisan. Post this the shawl is rubbed with a coarse cloth before it is sent for cleaning. Pashmina shawls are cleaned in spring water and the washer repeatedly strikes them against a smooth stone. After it is washed, the shawl is sent for dyeing if required.

The process of handcrafting a Pashmina shawls takes from a few months to a few years as the pattern demands. As such Jamawar Pashmina shawls, Kani Jamawar shawls, and Aksi Do Rukha shawls (reversible embroidered) take around 4 - 5 years to finish.

This completes the process of making a solid Pashmina shawl, without any embellishments. After dyeing these are stretched, ironed, and packed to be sold. But what if the shawl needs embellishment. What embellishments are there for a Pashmina shawl? How are those done? 

Types of Pashmina shawls 

Based on the embellishment and beautification of a Pashmina shawl, it has been differentiated into types. The most common type of embellishment done on a Pashmina shawl is embroidery. And with the help of threads and needles, embroidery artisans create magical patterns on a Pashmina shawl. Embroidery is done after the fishing processes are complete. 

Sozni Embroidery

The most famous and most used embroidery pattern is the Sozni embroidery. Sozni embroidery uses fine threads and needles to draw intricate patterns on a Pashmina shawl. The embroidery motifs spread all over the shawl, or just around the borders, or as decorative patches across the shawl. The embroidery is itself fine and hence does not cause any damage to the underneath fabric. 

To make a Sozni shawl, walnut wood stamps are chosen from amongst thousands of them. These are dipped in chemical ink, and the shawl is stamped with great attention to detail. Next, this stamped shawl is handed over to embroidery artisans, who choose silk threads to embroider the shawl, following the stamping. The embroidery artisans from the valley are highly qualified in deciding which colours to choose. This is because they have decades of experience in differentiating between the colours that work and those that aren't much liked by customers.

If a certain thread does not give the required effect, it is removed and another shade is used to do the same. The end result is breathtaking and swoon worthy.

Papier Mache Embroidery

Papier Mache embroidery is the next most used and loved embroidery pattern for Pashmina shawls. The threads are thicker, and the embroidery style is different too. Motifs here are filled with breathtaking colours which are alluring as well as aesthetic. 

The process of hand embroidering a Pashmina shawl in the realms of Paper Mache embroidery is the same as Sozni Kari. Just that the threads chosen are thicker, as well as the needle used to perform the art

Tilla Embroidery

Tilla Dozi is the embroidery style where the threads are metallic, dipped in gold or silver. This embroidery looks absolutely magical but spans over the shawl in less quantity as it is fairly heavy to be carried in large quantities by a Pashmina shawl. When Tilla shawls were crafted for the first time, real gold and silver wires were used in it, and only the kings, royals, and super-rich and affluent individuals could afford them. 

The process of Tilla embroidery is quite complicated. A graph paper or trace paper is perforate in the shape of motifs with specialized needles, so that stamping material passes through. The graph paper is placed on the shawl, and a mixture of sand and kerosene (which is the stamping material), is placed over the paper with the help of a duster. The mixture passes on the shawl, and the embroidery artisans follows the same to embroider it. Metallic threads dipped in gold and silver are carefully chosen, and magnificent motifs are patterned over the shawl. This gives birth to the world famous Tilla shawls, which were the most popular among Mughals. In fact, a large number of Tilla shawls feature Mughal fighting scenes, Mughal durbars and other casual day scenes from the Mughal period.

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Making of an Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The making of an embroidered shawl takes from a few months to a few years to complete. If the embroidery spans all over the shawl in a tight pattern, it is called Jamawar shawl. Jamawar shawls take 4 to 5 years to complete. The embroidery over a Jamawar shawl is so profuse that one gets totally lost in its patterns. 

After Jamawar comes the Jaalidaar pattern, where the embroidery is spread all over the bae, but loosely, such that the base is fairly visible. These shawls might take up a year of the artisans time

Dordaar and Palladaar patterns are those where embroidery motifs span as vines around the borders. While in the Dordaar pattern, the vines spread around four sides, Palladaar restrains them to just two edges breadthwise. These shawls are completed in a span of a few months. 

To conclude

Embroidered Pashmina shawls from Kashmir have been in vogue since the 15th century. And since then, there is no turning back. There is not a single period in the history of these luxury shawls when these were out of style. Pashmina is timeless, ageless, and evergreen. Hand embroidered, Pure Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are those immortal treasure pieces that every woman in the world wants to experience once. Their immense warmth, buttery-soft touch, feathery lightweight, and an amaranthine grace that continues to spread, make every woman in the world love it more.

Also read: What is the Kani shawl made of?

Pashmina shawls have different meanings for different individuals. For today's women, who are patrons of luxury, Pashmina shawls are the accessories that they wear to the finest of occasions. Carrying these on their shoulders enriches their already perfected looks. For a woman who is aware of the history of these shawls, Pashmina is a feeling of belongingness. However far a person is from his land, a Pashmina shawl on his shoulders, kind of, call them back; even if all they can do is reminisce about home.

But for the women of yesteryears, the shawls were a significant part of their lives. These shawls uplifted them in their worst times, survived them through the darkest times of their lives, and made them independent when the world wanted otherwise. In whichever way, Pashmina shawls stood the test of time. Hence we call the glory of this art an everlasting glory that deserves our attention, love and immense reverence.

How much do you know about a Pashmina shawl?

The family heirloom shawls made from Cashmere wool are immensely fine and gossamer. The finest Pashm growing on the Ladakhi goat undergoes a manual processing to become Pashmina shawls. Hence as a result of the most elaborate craftsmanship, a Pashmina shawl is born. The admiration and appreciation these shawls get are flaunt worthy. These vintage pieces have history to grandstand. 

Pashmina shawls come from processing the hair of a Ladakhi goat. Workers carefully acquire the wool from the animal by gently combing it off their bodies. This prevents the animal from getting hurt, as well as maintains the fine texture and quality of the hair. Workers then then spin and weave his delicate fibre manually and hence converted to opulent shawls. While during their inception, shawls were either solid, embroidered or Kani woven, modern times have seen shawls with the French Chantilly laces or Swarovski Crystals attached to them. These contemporary looks further accentuate the timeless status of Pashmina shawls and make them more swoon-worthy than before.

Pashmina Shawl: A Treasure in History

It was the time when Mughals conquered Kashmir in 1586, that Pashmina came into existence; it was under the rule of King Akbar. But during this time, people used Pashmina shawls less for domestic use and more as a commodity. The shawls were indeed the most luxurious accessory for men and women alike, but rulers used it as ‘khillat’ (royal gifts), and honoured visiting guests from other nations.

Owing to the patronising of Pashmina shawls by Mughals, many shawls were named after them. For example, designs like the Shah Pasand (King’s choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Mohammed Shah’s Flower) were named after the said kings during their respective rule. Soon the popularity of Pashmina shawls began spreading and never remained restrained to just one nation. Rulers of neighbouring countries too used these shawls as ‘Khillat’, exactly like the Mughals did. However, it was only after the valorisation of the Europeans that the shawl got its well-deserved place in history.

Why Europeans loved Pashmina?

It was after the French Emperor Napoleon brought a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl for his wife after he retired from an Egyptian campaign in the 18th century. Empress Josephine in return patronised the shawl so much that it became a symbol of luxury and style in France. In fact, in the 18th century, affluent Europeans began giving their wives a Pashmina shawl as a part of corbeille de mariage (a gift basket given by the groom to the bride upon the signing of the wedding contract). The shawls became the most worn accessories, especially amongst the rich royal class of Europe. The women believed that they looked their best while wearing these soft and graceful wraps. 

The finesse, softness and exquisite warmth of Pashmina shawls capture the attention of the East India Company too. The officials of the East India Company used to visit Kashmir and see for themselves the sheer elegance that these shawls exuded. Britishers made it a habit to visit the valley, and understand the complex procedures that went into making Kashmiri shawls. Women in the Mid-Victorian period began to use Kashmiri shawls in their day to day life. It was believed that if a woman wore a Pashmina shawl, she would unquestionably be considered an affluent one. Hence these luxury shawls were the most powerful indicator of social status. 

Also read: The Craze for Cashmere in 19th-century France 

Imitations of Pashmina Shawls in Europe

This fame and acclaim for Pashmina shawls in Europe lead to its fake imitations. These imitations were cheap, and hence gained a lot of impetus in ancient times. Women especially invested in these cheap products and wore them exactly like the original Pashmina shawl. The British even demanded 12 goats from India to be transported to their nations. In fact, it is believed that a few goats were sneaked and kept in similar conditions as there are in Ladakh (J&K), where the Pashmina goats reside. But these stolen goats could not produce fine Cashmere-like in their own habitat, and this evil plan hit the bottom. 

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Pashmina for Us

As ardent fans of Pashmina, we would write a hundred books about it, and still think that justice has not been done to its heavenly essence. Pashmina shawls aren't just regal accessories for the rich but have a history of uplifting underprivileged women in the past. There are women whose families have survived because of spinning Cashmere yarn for making Pashmina shawls. 

When these shawls were exchanged as commodities with the British, these became major sources of income for the community. Even today, a large portion of society is fully dependent on Pashmina shawls for their living. These are usually owners of handlooms who weave shawls, or the embroidery artisans who hand embroider Pashmina shawls. Hence, other than being our favourite piece of clothing for its looks and feel, Pashmina is our loved and revered wrap for the way it has contributed to its makers, hometown and the country as a whole. Indeed, Pashmina shawls are like Proust's Madeleines for Kashmiri women who have had the first-hand experience of its glory, decline and major ups and downs. And the love we give it is perhaps in return for what it has been doing for us for centuries

Also read: Kashmir - The state famous for Pashmina Craft

A quaint village in the northmost part of India is Kashmir. World-famous for its handicrafts, Kashmir is an eminent place for the production of shawls. Kashmiri shawls are one of the most sought after winter accessories. Hence, women across the globe find Kashmiri shawls of the best quality they have worn, touched, or experienced. Amongst the most luxurious assortments of resplendent shawls, it is Kani Pashmina shawls that stand superior and exceptional. Evidently, Kani shawls are those intricate masterpieces, which need immense attention, careful efforts and soulful endeavours of the maker. Owing to being an epitome of classic art and fine labour, these shawls have been rewarded with the GI. (GI is the Geographical Indication, which specialists use in products that enjoy special features due to their place of origin.

More than just a shawl, a Kani Pashmina is a whisper of the mountains stitched together, with each thread moving to the beat of an age-old craft. With elaborate designs growing like wildflowers across a canvas of the finest Cashmere, it is crafted by the hands of Kashmiri artisans and embodies the essence of the valley. Precisely crafted, the wooden kanis weave tales of paisleys and petals, as though the loom itself hums a timeless tune. Every twist and turn carries the pulse of generations, history coursing through each opulent strand like a river.

The story of Kani Pashmina Shawls

The tales of a Kani Pashmina begin in the snowy mountains of the picturesque Kashmir valley. A village called Kanihama houses all the breathtaking Kani Pashmina shawls. It was in this village that Kani art started. Since the Mughal era, Kanihama and its artisans have produced the most ethereal Kani shawls. And since then, every patron of this lavish art form has owned Kani Pashminas; they believe these to be nothing less than a treasure. 

Kani shawls in Pashmina art have been the most loved accessories of the Mughal rulers. Historians believe that King Akbar owned a large number of Kani Pashminas. In fact, he has mentioned of luxury shawls of Kashmir in his autobiography - Ain E Akbari. Moreover, some also believe that the Sufi Persian saint Shah E Hamdan introduced Kani shawl making in Kashmir. It was him who apart from several other crafts introduced this luxury craft as well.

Also read: Kashmiri Shawl left Historical Figures spellbound

History of Kani shawls

Kani shawls, originating in the picturesque Kashmir Valley in India, have a rich history dating back centuries. These shawls are, indeed, famous for their intricate designs, luxurious materials, and meticulous handwork

Early European Encounters:

The European fascination with Kani shawls goes back to the 18th and 19th centuries when European travelers and traders encountered these exquisite textiles during their journeys to the East. The allure of Kani shawls was immediate, and they were quickly recognized as rare and precious treasures.

Napoleon Bonaparte and the Shawl Revolution:

One pivotal moment in the history of Kani shawls in Europe was their association with Napoleon Bonaparte and his court. Napoleon's campaigns in Egypt and India brought him into contact with these luxurious shawls. Also, he was famous for gifting Kani shawls to his wives and influential women in his court. The shawls soon became a fashion statement, and their popularity surged across Europe. Napoleon's affinity for Kani shawls even led to what historians refer to as the "Shawl Revolution" in France.

The Victorian Era and Royal Endorsement:

The Victorian era in the 19th century saw Kani shawls gain further popularity, especially in England. Queen Victoria herself was famous for being a collector of fine textiles. Her endorsement of Kani shawls hence solidified their status as symbols of luxury. European royalty and aristocracy began to embrace Kani shawls as a mark of their refined taste and sophistication.

Influence on European Fashion:

Kani shawls had a profound impact on European fashion during the 19th century. They were integrated into the wardrobes of the elite and often worn as elegant accessories. Kani shawls with their intricate patterns and vibrant colors added a touch of exoticism to European attire. The demand for these shawls led to the creation of European-made imitations, but none could match the authenticity and craftsmanship of the originals from Kashmir.

Kani Shawls in Art and Literature:

The allure of Kani shawls extended to the realms of art and literature. European painters and artists often depicted the shawls in their works, highlighting their beauty and cultural significance. Additionally, writers and poets of the time made reference to Kani shawls in their writings, further cementing their place in European culture.

Modern-Day Appreciation:

Today, Kani shawls continue to receive reverence and admiration in Europe and beyond. In fact, they are highly sought after as collector's items and are valued for their historical significance, intricate craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. Artisans in Kashmir continue to produce these shawls using traditional techniques, ensuring that the legacy of Kani shawls endures

What is Kani?

The word ‘Kani’ refers to small bobbins or small wooden sticks. Kani is made of a forest wood called ‘poos tul.' It is, in fact, these sticks that are responsible for the making of Kani Pashmina shawls. Around these Kanis, artisans wind colourful weft threads to create magical patterns over a shawl. They use as many as 50 Kanis for preparing one single weft when preparing a Kani shawl. This itself speaks about the intricate patterns used and the labour put into it.

An artisan who weaves Kani Pashmina shawls can weave just a square inch a day. Undoubtedly, this shows the complexity of its designs. Artisans use pure Cashmere yarn in the making of Kani Pashminas. Usually, the shawl is a light base. In other words, white, cream or ash base is prefered and the Kani designs woven over it are rich and multicoloured. This creates a striking contrast and the shawl looks like a piece of art. 

How is Kani shawl made

Undoubtedly, in the realm of luxury textiles, few can rival the elegance and allure of Kani Pashmina shawls. Artisans weave these exquisite creations from a material that has received reverence for centuries: Kashmiri Cashmere. Hailing from the Ladakhi Changthangi goat, this fine Cashmere wool, which grows on the goat's body, is manually processed to create the luxurious Pashmina shawls that have captivated connoisseurs worldwide.

How is a Kani Pashmina shawl made? This is the most asked and relevant question about Kani Pashminas we encounter. 

The Origin of Kashmiri Pashmina:

The story of Kani Pashmina shawls begins with the origin of Kashmiri Pashmina. In detail, it all starts with the Changthangi goat, a unique breed found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in India. These goats have adapted to the harsh climate of the Himalayas. In fact, it's their undercoat that holds the secret to the exceptional softness and warmth of Pashmina wool.

The Pashmina Harvest:

The process of obtaining Pashmina is labor-intensive and meticulous. The goats naturally shed their fine undercoat, called Cashmere, during the spring. Following, herders carefully collect this shed wool, locally known as "Pashm,". It is this Pashm or Cashmere that forms the raw material for crafting Pashmina shawls.

Manually Processing Pashmina:

Once collected, the Pashm undergoes a series of manual processes to transform it into the precious Pashmina wool. Herders painstakingly clean, sort the fibre, before artisans carefully spin them . The result is a yarn that is incredibly soft, lightweight, and luxurious.

The Art of Kani Weaving:

With the finest Pashmina yarn in hand, artisans in Kashmir embark on the journey of creating Kani Pashmina shawls. Unquestionably, what sets Kani shawls apart is the intricate weaving technique that bears their name. The term "Kani" refers to the wooden bobbins used in the weaving process. It is, hence, these wooden bobbins which are most essential for creating the intricate patterns and motifs that adorn Kani shawls.

The Meticulous Weaving Process:

The weaving of a Kani Pashmina shawl is a labor of love and precision. Artisans follow detailed pattern charts, inserting hundreds of these wooden bobbins to create the mesmerizing designs. They use around 75 to 100 Kanis at a time to weave a Kashmiri Kani Pashmina. They do this when the shawl is Jamawar - or an overall design shawl. The shawls are woven inch by inch, line by line, and the design is repeated until the final masterpiece is produced. It looks breathtakingly beautiful, feels extraordinarily soft, and feels as warm as the pleasant summer sun.

Each bobbin carries a specific color of yarn, and the weaver carefully selects and inserts the bobbins at precise moments in the weaving process. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the shawl's designs are ready with unparalleled accuracy.

The Unparalleled Luxury of Kani Pashmina Shawls:

Kani Pashmina shawls get immense admiration for their exceptional softness, warmth, and intricate designs. The blend of the world's finest Pashmina with the artistry of Kani weaving results in a textile that is not merely a garment but a wearable work of art. These shawls are famous for their ability to provide both warmth and elegance, making them highly coveted by those who appreciate the pinnacle of craftsmanship and luxury.

A Timeless Legacy:

The legacy of Kani Pashmina shawls continues to thrive today, with skilled artisans in Kashmir preserving and perpetuating this centuries-old craft. These shawls are more than just fashion accessories; they are tangible pieces of Kashmiri culture, tradition, and heritage. Their timeless appeal and unmatched quality ensure that Kani Pashmina shawls remain a symbol of opulence and artistic mastery, cherished by generations to come

Kani Shawl gets the GI Stamp

To prevent people from creating fake Kani Pashminas outside Kashmir, using other techniques that are not inherent to Kani shawl making, the government rewarded Kani Pashminas with the Geographical Indication (GI) in 2008. This was done to enact the legal protection of the shawl all over the world indicated by the Minister for Industries and Commerce. Kashmiri Pashmina was already GI patented, and then Kani Pashminas made from pure Pashmina too got this prestigious stamp. Hence, if you own a Kani Pashmina from Kashmir, you are the owner of two rare and glorified crafts at once!

Varieties in Kani Pashmina Shawls

There are a number of designs based on the patterns of these shawls, as woven by local artisans. 

Kani Jamawar Shawls: Kani Jamawar shawls are the most popular choice when it comes to Kani Pashminas. These shawls have Kani patterns spread all over the base with brilliant patterns, motifs and designs. This type of shawl takes 3 to 4 years to complete, with an artisan spending 8 to 10 hours every day crafting it. These are the most expensive shawls amongst the types of Kani shawls.

Kani Paladar Shawls: Patrons consider this type of shawl a minimalistic Kani Pashmina, that has patterns only on its borders (widthwise). Artisans can prepare this one in a few months.

Chand Daar Shawls: A lesser-known type of Kani shawl is the chand daar shawl. It features a full design in the exact centre of the shawl, with small motifs lying on four corners.

Also read: Sensing the sounds of Kani Shawls

Artisans of Kani Shawls

The artisans behind Kani shawls are the custodians of an ancient craft. Wearers have passed down these shawls through generations in the Kashmir Valley. These skilled craftsmen and craftswomen play a pivotal role in the creation of these exquisite textiles, and their expertise is central to the shawls' intricate beauty and quality.

Training and Apprenticeship

The journey of a Kani shawl artisan typically begins with a long and rigorous apprenticeship. Young individuals, often from families with a history in the craft, lean the art by experienced masters. This training can last for several years, during which apprentices learn the intricacies of the craft, from preparing the wooden bobbins to weaving complex patterns.

Mastery of Kani Weaving

At the heart of Kani shawl craftsmanship is the art of Kani weaving. Artisans master this technique, which involves using wooden bobbins to weave intricate patterns and motifs. They become proficient in handling multiple bobbins simultaneously, ensuring that each thread is inserted at precisely the right moment to create the desired design.

Design Interpretation

Kani shawl artisans are not mere weavers; they are artists who can interpret and replicate complex designs with precision. They work from pattern charts, which serve as blueprints for the shawl's intricate patterns. The ability to translate these charts into meticulously woven patterns requires a keen eye and a deep understanding of the craft.

Attention to Detail

One of the hallmarks of Kani shawl artisans is their unwavering attention to detail. They meticulously inspect their work at every stage of production, ensuring that each thread aligns perfectly with the design. This commitment to perfection ensures that the final shawl is a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Use of Premium Materials

Artisans understand the importance of using premium materials in crafting Kani shawls. They carefully select the finest Cashmere or other luxury fibers and prepare them for weaving. The choice of material and its quality significantly impacts the shawl's texture, warmth, and overall feel.

Preservation of Tradition

Kani shawl artisans are not only skilled practitioners of their craft. They are also guardians of tradition. They are committed to preserving the heritage and cultural significance of Kani shawls. By adhering to time-honored techniques and passing down their knowledge to the next generation, they ensure that this ancient craft continues to thrive.

Ethical and Sustainable Practices

Many Kani shawl artisans are proponents of ethical and sustainable practices. They prioritize responsible sourcing of materials, fair wages for themselves and their fellow artisans, and environmentally friendly dyeing processes. This commitment to ethical production aligns with the global demand for socially conscious and sustainable fashion

The love for Kani

Crafts come and perish. Art forms live and die. But the village of Kanihama has managed to keep the ethereal art of Kani Pashminas making alive. The village is called ‘handloom village’. It produces Kani Pashminas of the best quality. It is the untiring efforts of the local artisans who spent their entire lives introducing, saving, restoring and manufacturing the most beautiful Kani Pashminas of the valley.

Shawl weaving is a family tradition in Kashmir, especially in this small village of Kanihama. It runs in their bloodline, and artisans have had over three generations weaving shawls and handcrafting designs. Whatever time it takes, and however hard the efforts are, the artisans never say no to the making of Kani Pashmina shawls. They remain attached to this art form even if any other engagements occupy them . So much so, that artisans believe that Kani Pashmina making is their favourite activity and their hobby!

Sustainability in Pashmina Craft

The ethical sourcing and crafting procedures that the communities of Kashmir and Ladakh follow are very important to the sustainability of Pashmina craft, as are the ancient methods used to produce this beautiful wool. The Changthangi goats are the source of the beautiful Cashmere used to make Pashmina; they naturally lose their undercoat in the spring. By ensuring that the wool is collected without endangering the animals, this organic approach protects the delicate ecological balance of the area. Due to its reliance on slow, centuries-old workmanship that reduces waste and honors the natural rhythms of the animals and environment, the entire process is intrinsically sustainable.

The artisanship involved in the creation of pashminas also supports regional economies and conserves cultural heritage, which both add to sustainability. Generations-old hand-spinning, weaving, and needlework techniques use little energy and depend more on the talent of the artists than on industrial technology. This methodical, deliberate process not only minimizes the ecological footprint but also guarantees the durability of every item, resulting in superior shawls that are intended to be treasured for many years. Because it combines artisanal workmanship in harmony with ethical sourcing, the Pashmina craft represents sustainable luxury in this way.

GI Kani Pashmina

A geographical indication (GI) is a token attached to products that come from a specific geographical origin. To get a GI, a particular sign is used to identify a product having its manufacturing in a particular place. Moreover, geographical identification enables the craftsmanship of the place to only have the right to manufacture which means no third party can be applicable to manufacture the product. Therefore, the GI authentication of Pashmina is performed by Pashmina Testing & Quality Certification Centre, Craft Development Institute (CDI) located in Srinagar. It is a lab managed by the Government of India. The certification is given after proper testing examining every Pashmina accessory.

The richness of Pashmina is an embodiment of luxury. Pashmina.com is the only platform with high-quality Pashminas that have GI (Geographic Identification) authentication from the Ministry of Textiles to ensure the premium properties of Hand-woven and Hand-Spun. There are distinct procedures done to authenticate the quality of each Pashmina. The Pashmina Crafted accessories are tested in the laboratory specified to test the Pashminas. They ensure through examination that the Pashmina is hand-spun and hand-woven in Kashmir. In addition, they provide the authentication certificate called GI by testing the Pashmina exclusively through technical procedures.

Also read: Pashmina belongs to the Clan of Originality

Conclusion

Kani Pashmina shawls represent the zenith of luxury in the world of textiles. Crafted from the finest Kashmiri Pashmina and meticulously woven using the Kani technique, these shawls are a testament to the artistry and heritage of Kashmir. They are not merely garments; they are expressions of timeless elegance and craftsmanship that continue to capture the hearts of discerning individuals around the globe.

The artisans behind Kani shawls, with their meticulous craftsmanship and unwavering dedication, transform Pashmina into wearable works of art. Their mastery of the Kani weaving technique, which involves the deft handling of wooden bobbins and intricate pattern interpretation, ensures that each shawl is a testament to precision and creativity.

As we wrap ourselves in the warmth and beauty of a Kani shawl, we also embrace a legacy that has transcended time and geography. These shawls are a celebration of craftsmanship, a tribute to nature's gifts, and a connection to a heritage that continues to enchant and inspire.

Kashmiris have always had a great reputation as skilled craftsmen. This community was one that was the most revered and celebrated around the world for its proficiency. These artisans impressed Europeans much, and the entire world too, with the handcrafted objects they created. One of them was the Kashmiri shawl, which came to the notice of the world in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Kashmiri shawls were uniquely crafted. These used fine animal hair which when processed, gave lightweight, warm and sumptuous shawls. They first became truly loved by the local Mughal rulers, but soon spread their wings across nations, especially when Empress Josephine of France wore one and owned hundreds. 

With large quantities of exports, the economy of Kashmir grew. Up to this day, Kashmiris attribute their ancient economic well-being to the sales of Kashmiri handicrafts, the prime of these being handcrafted shawls. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls aren't just a warm wrap accessory for women, but something to be revered and honoured.

With a huge clientele and admiration, Kashmiri shawls grew adoration as well as many questions on its origin and making. So today, we assembled ten important questions on Kashmiri shawls, and let our experts answer them for those who still do not have enough knowledge about the same.

Q1: What are Kashmiri Shawls?

Shawls crafted in Kashmir are broadly categorised into three categories on the basis of the raw material used to make them. The finest, most warm, and the most expensive shawls are shahtoosh shawls, which are made from the hair of Tibetan antelope. These animals grow fine hair to survive the freezing cold of their habitat. But unfortunately, the Tibetan antelope has to be killed in order to acquire its hair. And hence, Shahtoosh trading is banned all over the world. The Shahtoosh fibre on spinning would yield yarn of just 7 to 10 microns in diameter, which is magically fine.

The next category is the Pashmina shawls, which are crafted from Cashmere wool found in Ladakh. The Cashmere goat loses its hair in the Spring season, which the herders collect and get processed manually in Kashmir. Pashmina shawls are immensely soft, smooth, warm, and lightweight. 

The third category is the simple sheep wool shawls called Raffal shawls. Raffal shawls are used for casual occasions, while Pashmina shawls are worn by women for weddings and special events. 

It is Pashmina shawls that are used synonymously with Kashmiri shawls. The reason is that Shahtoosh is banned, and Raffal shawls aren't too famous around the world because of a generic and “not so special” quality. Even though Raffal shawls serve a number of purposes for the locals, it is the charm of Pashmina shawls that has got the world fascinated.

Q2: How are Kashmiri Shawls made?

Call them Kashmiri shawls or Pashmina shawls, these are handcrafted by artisans of the valley for a few months or sometimes years. Fine Cashmere grows on the body of a rare goat, inhabiting the Himalayan region. This is collected during the moulting period and sent for processing to Kashmir. In Kashmir, artisans clean, spin and weave it, all manually. This is how one Kashmiri shawl is prepared. It can be later embroidered, printed, laced, or adorned in any way. 

Also read: Which country has the best Cashmere?

Q3: Who introduced shawls in Kashmir?

A Persian saint, by the name of Mir Syed Ali Hamdan, was the first person to discover Cashmere in Ladakh. He ordered its herders to gently comb it off the body of the goat, and process it. It was processed into a pair of socks and presented to the then king Zain ul Abideen. The king was highly fascinated and satisfied with its high quality. He immediately ordered processing units to be set up for handcrafting shawls. Hence it was king Zain ul Abideen, who lay the foundation of Kashmiri shawls in Kashmir. 

Q4: How much time does it take to craft Kashmiri Shawl?

This completely depends on the type of shawl, the amount of embroidery, and the weave on the shawl. If the shawl has to be solid, it will take just 3 to 4 days to weave it. Weaving takes time as the spun thread is always ready. If the shawl has to be embroidered lightly, it might take a few months. Jamawar shawls, which are embroidered in such a way that the base is not visible, take up to 5 years to complete. The same is the case with a Kani Jamawar shawl, which takes 4 to 5 years to complete. 

Q5: Why is Kashmiri shawl so popular?

Kashmiri shawls are popular all over the world for a number of reasons. Firstly, these are one of the warmest accessories in the world. Kashmiri shawls made from Cashmere are 8 times warmer than sheep wool. As far as softness is concerned, these shawls are heavenly soft and fine. Know that Cashmere fibre on spinning becomes just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. This makes Cashmere shawls fine, soft, and lightweight. These shawls, when embroidered, look heavenly graceful and elegant, and this is the reason why Europeans chose them over thousand other options from across the world. 

Q6: What embroideries are done on Pashmina shawls?

Kashmiri shawls are adorned with hand embroideries, as the strain of a machine can tear through the shawls. There are three main embroidery patterns that a Pashmina shawl of Kashmir hosts. 

• Sozni embroidery: This is a fine thread and needle embroidery, where light wool or silk threads are used to hand embroider a shawl. All the colours in the world are used, and large and small motifs are embroidered all over the shawl or just its borders. Sozni embroidery can be done profusely in a shawl, because it is lightweight, and a shawl can hold any weight of these fine threads. 
• Papier Mache embroidery: This type of embroidery uses thicker threads as compared to sozni ones. The threads are brilliantly coloured and look exceptionally beautiful when hosted by pastel coloured shawls. Paper Mache embroidery is done profusely over shawls, and it is fine and gentle on the base. It has been named Paper mache, after the craft of Paper mache (where decorative and utility items are made out of paper), as the designs look similar.
• Tilla Dozi: Tilla dozi used metallic threads dipped in gold or silver to adorn the gossamer base of Kashmiri shawls. Tilla was only afforded by the rich and influential some years back, as the threads would be pure gold and silver. But to make these shawls affordable for the masses, artisans used metal, which gave the same magnificent effect, without being much expensive. Tilla is done over Kashmiri Pashmina in small quantities, as the base is light and can tear because of metallic threads passing through.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Also known as ‘soft gold’, Pashmina shawls are one of the most prized and luxurious wrap accessories in the world. The wool for handcrafting a Pashmina shawl comes from the down coat of a rare goat found roaming around the ‘roof of the world’ - the Himalayan ranges. As it sheds this extraordinarily fine, soft and warm wool naturally in Spring, the same is hand processed into extravagant Pashmina shawls, scarves, or wraps. 

This shawl is so delicate

Pashmina shawls are delicate wrap accessories. These are made from the fine and gossamer Cashmere wool that grows as a down coat to the Himalayan Capra Hircus. 

The Himalayan range lies to the North of India and spreads around several nations. These nations include India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, China, Nepal and more. Hence all of these nations produce Cashmere wool, and hence shawls. But the best quality and the finest shawls are produced by Kashmir because this side of the mountain houses goats that grow the best quality Cashmere. 

It is in the Ladakh region, where the Changthangi area is situated. As enormous as over 14000 feet above sea level, the Changthangi area houses Changthangi goats that produce cashmere wool. The wool is exceptionally fine, and soft and helps the goats survive the coldest climates in the world. At minus 40 degrees C, the goats move freely and comfortably, without the cold harming them in any way, all thanks to their body hair. This down coat of Cashmere protects the goat all winter long, while its herders live a fairly difficult life. 

Acquiring wool from goats

Come Spring, the moulting period starts. The goat loses almost all of this body hair, and in summer herders help it with the same. Specialised tools and combs are used to rid the goat of this animal hair, which is now uncomfortable for it, as summers are remarkably hot. This hair removed is Cashmere. It is immensely fine and delicate, and hence needs manual cleaning which is done in Ladakh itself by women and men together in groups. 

The processing of Cashmere includes spinning, weaving and embroidery (if required), and all of it is done manually. The spun fibre of Pashmina shawls is just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Sometimes the fibre is not even visible to a layman, and it is so delicate that even a harsh movement of the hands can break it. For this reason, a Pashmina shawl is exceptionally delicate and gentle. It requires gentle treatment when wearing, washing, drying, or storing. If pure Pashmina shawls are pulled or stretched between two hands, they can tear off. 

Also read: Guide to Cashmere | Everything you need to know about Cashmere

Does a Pashmina shawl shrink?

Because Pashmina shawls are such delicate babies, they need special care and cautious handling when dealt with. A moment of carelessness can cause a lot of damage to your precious piece. It might shrink or pile with the harshest movements. While piling is reversible, shrinking is an issue, which several owners of pashmina shawls consider irreversible. 

A Pashmina shawl can shrink during its wash or drying. Here are some instances because of which Pashmina shawls usually shrink

• Pashmina shawls have to be handled manually, as they are prepared manually, without the use of any machine. Hence their washing should be the same. Pashmina shawls require hand wash in lukewarm water. If you place this precious and sensitive wrap in hot water, it will definitely shrink. 
• Washing a Pashmina shawl in a washing machine has rules of its own. If however, you wash it at a regular cycle, like you do with your cottons and nylons, the shawl will definitely lose shape. 
• If your shawl got wrinkled somehow, and you directly used hot iron to straighten it, it will again lose its original shape. It may expand or shrink, according to the damage it has received. 
• Pashmina shawls are air dried by placing them flat on the ground. If you tumble dry them, they will definitely shrink.
• Harsh detergents are not made for Pashmina shawls. Instead, there are Cashmere shampoos or Pashmina shampoos in the market to wash these gossamer fine and dainty pieces which are immensely gentle on their fabric. If you can't find one, use a baby shampoo or conditioner. 

How to Unshrink a Pashmina shawl?

The good news is that if your Pashmina shawl has shrunk, you can unshrink it and that too from your home. All you have to do is follow the following steps. 

• Fill the large tub with lukewarm water. The tub should be large enough to soak your shawl fully
• Pour in a fabric softener or a baby shampoo or the usual Cashmere shampoo
• Soak the Pashmina shawl into this mixture for two hours till the time it becomes stretchy. Check this while the shawl is still inside the tub soaking
• Post the stipulated time, take the shawl out. Do not rinse it yet.
• Squeeze the extra water out, by compressing the shawl between your hands. Do not wring the shawl.
• Now lay your shawl on a flat surface and manually stretch the edges. Repeat this, till you feel the shawl has come to its original position.
• Place weights on the edges or simply pin the edges with the cloth underneath the shawl, to keep it stretched more a few minutes
• Check the shape of the shawl. If it has regained the shape, remove the pins and weights. If not, leave it in the same position for a few more minutes
• Post this process, rinse it with cold water. When the water runs clear, place it over a clean and dry towel.
• Roll the towel so as to squeeze and absorb the extra amount of water. 
• Unroll it again and place the shawl now on another dry towel or thick clean cotton sheet. 
• Let it air dry flat on this surface for days, till it is completely dry. 
• Your Pashmina shawl is new and fresh again. Make sure the next time you wash it with extra care and gentleness. 

With proper handling, washing, and storage, you can extend the life of your Pashmina shawl to an entire lifetime. Pure Pashmina shawls from Kashmir last for even 30 years and acquire a heritage look with time. 

Also read: Pashmina Gifts - A Lifetime of Memories