Pashmina Art is the crafting of fine Cashmere wool to diverse accessories. The diverse range of finest Cashmere accessories is bestowed with the precision and diligence of artisans of Kashmir Valley. The Art of Pashmina is an authentic craft belonging to the valley of Kashmir. Pashmina Art is the authentic craft of Kashmir. Its origin goes back to the 15th century. The unique definition of tradition and heritage, given to the Pashmina by the name artisans is defined. The Valley is gifted with the Art of Pashmina for a very long. Although, modernisation and technology have altered its production. Yet, the essence of the revival of Pashmina Art is up to the mark of authenticity and valour.

Pashmina Art- From Changhthanghi Ladakh

It all starts in the region of Ladakh. The temperature in the mountain of Changhthanghi goes to a minimum of 20°C. Nature inhibits many movements. But, a rare breed of goats called Changra Goats dwells in this harsh climate. To combat this winter, they develop thick wool on their bodies. The Changra goats, also called Kashmir Goats are rare. They are medium-sized Goats with two twisted horns. Thus, mainly grazed for the production of fine Wool. The fine wool they develop in the winter season is naturally shed off against rocks, trees by them. Moreover, the herders of the Changpa tribe also manually comb out the wool. The fine wool is called Cashmere wool. 

cashmere goat
Changra goats in Ladakh

Cashmere from this particular region of Changhthanghi is the finest among all. There is a worldwide production of Cashmere wool. Several countries produce a large quantity of Cashmere wool. More than 98% of Cashmere wool comes from the other breeds of Goats from around the world. Only 1% of total production is from the Changra Goats of Changhthanghi, Ladakh. The fineness corresponds to the premium quality Cashmere wool. Thus, the replication, not only done within Pashmina Art but the replication in accessories also done using the other Cashmere wool.

Pashmina Art- To the Valley of Kashmir

After reaching the valley of Kashmir, the packets of Cashmere wool are cleaned, soaked and dried to take out dirt and grime. After the adequate cleaning, the Cashmere wool, distributed to the households finest. Then, women in households use the wooden wheel called yinder to spin the Cashmere wool. This is called Spinning. The transformation of the fine Cashmere wool to Cashmere yarn is Spinning. Thus, the process of translating Cashmere Wool to fine Cashmere yarn is Spinning. The spinning, done meticulously with precision is efficient. Women work with diligence to make the best out of the Spinning process. It is the basic step of Pashmina Art. This roots for the other marvellous steps of Pashmina Art. After the Spinning process, the spun Cashmere yarn is moved further to the process of Weaving.

Weaving and Designing

Weaving is the third step in Pashmina Art. It is the process of crafting the fine yarn into supremely premium Cashmere fabric. The highly skilled artisans work on the handlooms set up in the local workshops/ karkhanas. The handlooms, mostly made of forest wood are handmade. The artisans mainly men artisans work with diligence on the fine yarn. By creating a series of warps and wefts by using their hands and feet, the fabric comes into existence. The supremely premium fabric, turned to the further step of designing is explicit.

Artisan weaving on Hand Loom
Artisan weaving on Hand Loom

The process of designing begins. Thus, the faith of finest Cashmere is assigned. The artisans wait for the arrival of Cashmere fabric with the hearts of skill. The marvellous hands of artisans confer to the designs and hum melodies of intricacy on the finest Cashmere. The surrounding aura of the valley signifies the profound design in diverse ways. There are three main styles in the Pashmina Art;  Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. In addition, it is known that Pashmina Art, the crafting of the finest Ladakhi Cashmere to a diverse range of accessories in numerous designs is premium.

In the Valley of Kashmir- Origin of Pashmina Art

The story begins when a Persian saint was travelling across the globe. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. So, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of thick and soft wool. Amazed by the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen, the ruler of Kashmir Valley.

Thus, after perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, he suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles. Even the name Pashmina, derived from the Persian word, pashm, meaning "the soft gold" is explicitly unique.

Therefore, the 700 craftsmen worked over the people of the valley and taught them several handicrafts. The one being the Art of Pashmina. Therefore, from old generations till now, the Kashmir valley, bestowed with highly skilled artisans is cultural. Pashmina Art is the token of the heritage of Handicrafts of Kashmir. These artisans are the masters of Pashmina Art till now. The generations of the valley of Kashmir work upon the finest Cashmere in diverse ways. Thus, creating several accessories of luxurious value.

Also read: Kashmiri Shawls: Who introduced shawls in Kashmir?

The Advent of Power looms and Machine-Crafted Pashmina

The emergence of technology leads to a fast world. The period of each process has been shortened by using the Machines. In the older times, the authenticity of Pashmina Art, evident in the process of crafting was versatile. Handspun and Handwoven Pashmina were of high quality and royalty. With the advent of machines and modernisation, handlooms got replaced with power looms. It decreases the period of the crafting and the skill requires is least. Therefore, the industries opted for the power looms to save money and energy. In this process of modernisation, the essence and genuineness got in the world. Even Hand embroidery was replaced with Machine Embroidery. It affected the artisans and their livelihood and the skill, taken aback for many years was diminished.

Further, by the knowledge and scope of Pashmina Art, we, at pashmina.com are reviving the originality of the Pashmina Art. The whole process of Pashmina Art, manually done is exqusite. Thus, the high quality, preserved eloquently. Also, the several places have replicated the Pashmina Art accessories. The other states of India have replicated the Art by making machine-spun, machine woven and machine embroidered Pashmina Shawls. It has affected the quality statement of overall Pashmina Art. Therefore, the genuineness, catered in the Valley of Kashmir is efficient. Also, the artisans have been the servers of Pashmina Art for generations.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

The Versatile Collection

kalamkari shawl
This art is kalamkari and is painted upon a Pashmina shawl, making it look marvellous and extraordinarily beautiful

As per the norms of the present world, the definition of any modernization, well-defined with the creation of Pashmina is authentic. Also, the livelihood of artisanss survived. In addition, the integrity is preserved. Pashmina Art from the Cashmere wool of Changthangi Goat is versatile in itself. At pashmina.com, the best collection of men’s and women’s Pashmina is at its high-quality podium. Pashmina is a high-quality craft in the world that cherishes its lovers by bringing warmth and luxurious fashion to the presence of souls. Therefore, the craft of pashmina, the quality craft is explicit. In addition, its extensive creation, the diligent artisans, and the love, poured into every single masterpiece of Pashmina is definite.

Also read: The Exclusive Pashmina Art in the valley of Kashmir

Cashmere - the downy luxurious hair obtained from the Cashmere goats have for centuries been used to produce yarn. From this yarn, textiles, shawls, wraps, scarves, furnishing and other accessories have been crafted since the 15th century. The famous Kashmiri shawls (called Pashmina shawls) are also a product of the long processing of Cashmere wool, which is done in Kashmir itself.

Where is Cashmere found?

Cashmere is found growing on rare species of goats called the Capra Hircus. These are found around the Himalayas, at different points, and hence a number of countries close to these points are producers of Cashmere. China and Mongolia top this list, while other countries produce the same in lesser amounts. 

Gathering wool from the Goat

Cashmere is collected during spring and summer. This is the moulting season for the goat which grows it. It starts around March, and till May, maximum Cashmere is collected. The coat of hair grows back as soon as the first signs of winter occur. 

changthangi goat being combed
Changthangi goat being gently combed

The hair is collected from the body of the Cashmere goat in March. This is when due to hormonal changes, the goat itself loses a major part of the hair. The rest of it is gently combed off using specialized tools and combs. This is packed in small packs, post a basic cleaning process. After cleaning, the wool is processed into yarn, and the yarn is woven to make Cashmere scarves, shawls, or plain fabric to be processed later. 

Production of Cashmere

China is the largest producer of Cashmere followed by Mongolia. These two nations together produce more than 90% of the total cashmere produced in the world. Other countries like Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, and India also produce cashmere, but in lesser amounts. The best quality is produced in the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir in India. This Cashmere is the finest and the warmest amongst all. It is used in the making of the world-famous Kashmiri shawls. 

Cashmere and Ladakh

Over an altitude of over 14000 feet, North of India lies a region, cut away from the hustle and bustle of the main city. The region is Changthang and lies in the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir. Changthang is cruelly cold and freezes at a temperature of minus 40 degrees in winter. While people themselves never choose to travel to this corner of the world, except for in peak summer season, there are communities which have lived here since the start of time. Buddhist monks of Ladakh, have been born and raised in these harsh conditions, and it is this community that continues to live here with their prized herds, Cashmere goats being one of them. 

cashmere goat
Changthangi goat in the Ladakh region

Cashmere goats of Ladakh are called Changthangi goats, named after the place they are specifically found in. These goats grow fine wool in the winter season, but in Spring get rid of most of it. The rest of the wool, still on their bodies is gently combed off by professionals, and packed in small packets. This is sent to Kashmir for processing, as Ladakh itself lacks the proper infrastructure, and labour needed for the processing of the fine wool. 

Also read: Sustainable Gifts | Ethically Sourced Cashmere Wraps

Arrival In Kashmir

As soon as Cashmere from Ladakh reaches Kashmir, artisans await its arrival with open arms. It is received by middlemen first, who send it to womenfolk of the valley. The women sit in groups and start cleaning the Cashmere. The threads are sorted one by one, making the process one of the most laborious processes. Post this cleaning, where any external substances are removed from the wool, clean Cashmere is soaked in a mixture of rice powder and water paste. It is soaked for days, making the threads stronger and shinier. After 3 or 4 days, the fibre is removed from the rice paste and cleaned again. This super clean, stronger and finer version of Cashmere is sent for hand spinning. 

Hand spinning is again done by the womenfolk of the valley. A number of women own a wooden spinning wheel, which is locally called “yinder”. The yinder transforms Cashmere wool lumps to fine yarn, 12 to 16 microns in diameter. It is the rhythms of the movement of the hands and the wheel that is responsible for producing Cashmere yarn. Once the yarn is ready, it sent for weaving

Pashmina Weaving
The weaving of cashmere being done on handloom

Weaving is carried out by the men. One or two people sit at a time and weave the fine yarn into fabric. The fabric can be shawls, scarves, plain fabric for making accessories, furnishing items and more. The weaving process takes 3 to 4 days to complete. It is again a labour intensive process that takes a lot of hard work by the workers. Sitting an entire day for 8 to 10 hours every single day is a challenge in itself, but the passion of the artisans knows no bounds. 

Is Cashmere made in Kashmir?

Cashmere is processed in Kashmir. It is procured from the Ladakh region, but since Ladakh itself has no artisans or the proper infrastructure to process Cashmere, it is sent to Kashmir. Processing units in Kashmir were set up in the 15th century, by the then king Zain ul abideen, who was impressed by the fine quality and warmth of the wool. Since then, Cashmere has been processed in Kashmir, and it has been centuries since the artisans of the valley mastered this art. Procured from Ladakh, each process in the making of the finished products is carried out in Kashmir. Spinning, weaving, embroidery, styling, designing, each step is carried out by a different set of artisans from Kashmir. 

embroidered pashmina shawl
The shawl has been hand embroidered in the realms of sozni Kari that makes it even more pleasing to the eyes

The best use of Ladakhi Cashmere till date is the making of the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl. These shawls are exceptionally warm, lightweight, fine, beautiful and timeless. It was the Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, which became the obsession of ancient European royalty in the 18th century. Europeans, especially the queens, noblewomen and affluent among them were the ones to invest in hundreds of shawls at once. 

If invested in a pure Cashmere scarf, the same last for a lifetime. No doubt in the ancient time's women gave their own shawls to their newlywed daughters, the masterpiece looked grand and immensely elegant. 

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?

The ancient art of fabric painting has started to become an essential pattern in Pashmina's making. Being widespread in the northern and western regions, we too adopted Kalamkari work in our certified collections.

India's rich artistic legacy is exemplified by the exquisite craftsmanship and ageless tradition found in kamandkari shawls. These intricately designed shawls, which are handmade or block-printed in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana using natural dyes, are influenced by mythology, the natural world, and folklore. Crafted by skilled artisans who have refined their techniques over several generations, each piece tells a story. Kalamkari shawls are more than just a fashion statement; with their vivid colors and intricate designs, they are works of wearable art that capture the spirit of Indian culture and artistic genius.

Pashmina shawls have been a savior for the locals ever since these luxury wraps got an introduction in the valley for the first time. Other than being the greatest rescuer when the valley was at its coldest, Pashmina shawls were an investment. In fact, people would sell off pieces of these shawls during a financial need. Hence, Pashmina shawls are more than fashion accessories and receive greatly reverence by the older generation. And if you have grown up listening to stories about your grandmother's heirloom shawl passing through generations, it is definitely a Pashmina shawl.

The purpose of raw Cashmere wool being handwoven to make luxury Pashmina shawls was initially to keep one warm. It was a Sufi saint and traveler, who visited Kashmir. He discovered Cashmere wool in Ladakh, growing over the underbelly of an exotic goat. He ordered workers to craft a pair of socks out of it for the then king; the king found the socks immensely warm and comfortable.

But as time passed, Pashmina became more unaffordable for commoners. Now, it was a fashion accessory for the affluent. And as a fashion accessory, it had to adhere to certain rules. These rules included being appropriate for all ages and adapting every design. Thread embroideries of certain types, printed Pashmina shawls, shawls with laces, and monochrome shawls came into existence. Pashmina seamlessly adopted these very well, looking as elegant in one as in the other. One of the exceptionally exquisite patterns in Pashmina shawls is the kalamkari pattern.

What is Kalamkari?

Indian calligraphy, or kalamkari, is a traditional art style that uses natural dyes and hand painting or block printing on cloth to create beautiful designs. Because of the painstaking hand sketching process required to create these exquisite sculptures, the word "Kalamkari" is derived from the Persian words "kalam," which means pen, and "kari," which means craftsmanship. Kalamkari art has its roots in the religious and cultural customs of the Andhra Pradesh and Telangana regions of India. It frequently includes representations of nature, animals, and holy characters in addition to themes from Hindu epics.

A bamboo or tamarind pen is used to draw the outlines, and natural dyes made from plants, roots, and minerals are used to fill in the colors. The laborious procedure entails several processes. The cloth is treated with cow dung and milk.

Beyond its use as ornamental art, kalamkari represents a rich cultural legacy that has been handed down through the ages. Under the Mughal rulers' patronage, the art flourished and ultimately achieved prominence in European marketplaces through trade. Nowadays, kalamkari is utilized to create a variety of goods, such as tablecloths and wall hangings for home décor in addition to sarees and shawls. Because of the artisan's expertise and the cultural histories they aim to maintain, each piece of Kalamkari work is unique. Known for its intricate workmanship, stunning natural surroundings, and cultural value, Kalamkari survives despite the difficulties presented by contemporary mass production.

In other way, the word Kalamkari comes from two different words 'Kalam' meaning 'Pen', and 'Kari' meaning 'work'. Hence Kalamkari literally means the work of the pen. A kalamkari is an art form, which includes drawing with a pen on fabric with hands; using a brush and a few natural dyes. Also, Kalamkari art is common in Isfahan (Iran). They use plant-based paints and dyes, and a naturally made bamboo brush, and handcraft brilliant motifs over the shawls. These shawls last long for generations to cherish.

History of Kalamkari

It is 3000 B.C when historians believe the art of Kalamkari dates back to. Archeologists too have dug up certain sites of Mohenjo Daro and found kalamkari patterns of some fabric rags. Some believe that in the 13th century, a group of artists travelled to teach pupils Hindu mythology. To do so, they would paint large pieces of canvas with vegetable dyes, and paint made from plant extracts. This was the first time that Kalamkari was done. Later, artisans used the art to make wall hangings to decorate temples and other religious places for Hindus.

The almost 3,000-year-old Kalamkari art heritage is intricately entwined with the history of Kalamkari shawls. Hindu epics and religious storylines were depicted in this age-old art form from its inception in the southeast Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The art form first took shape in temple towns, when artisans known as Chitrakars would paint enormous panels with scenes from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and other legendary stories. These panels were utilized as backdrops for religious performances or to decorate the walls of temples. This tradition was distinguished by the use of natural dyes and painstaking hand-painting processes, where each work showcased the artist's talent and dedication.

Kalamkari art gained a great deal of attention and developed into a more intricate and sophisticated technique during the Mughal dynasty. Shawls and other textiles started to be adorned with elaborate designs and patterns as a result of the Mughal monarchs' encouragement of the arts' growth and admiration for artistry. Since they frequently combined traditional Indian components with Persian art-inspired flower patterns, vines, and other motifs, Kalamkari shawls have become widely prized for their superb craftsmanship and complex symbolism. These shawls were status symbols as much as articles of apparel, signifying the wearer's affluence and taste in fine art. The skill also became well-known throughout the world when Indian traders sent Kalamkari textiles—including shawls—to European marketplaces, where their beauty and individuality made them extremely valuable.

Because of mass-produced textiles and industrialization, Kalamkari shawls lost their appeal in the 19th and 20th centuries. But in the late 20th century, the craft saw a renaissance because to the work of craftspeople, cultural preservationists, and government programs that promoted the revival of traditional crafts. These days, Kalamkari shawls are prized for their symbolic meaning and cultural importance, representing India's rich artistic legacy. To ensure that this age-old art form is still relevant in the modern world, current Kalamkari artisans innovate with new designs and motifs while adhering to traditional procedures. Today, the shawls are prized for being a special representation of India's ongoing inventiveness as well as a link to its historical past.

Kalamkari under Islamic Rule

Kalamkari art flourished and underwent major modification under Islamic control, especially during the Mughal era. When Islamic kings arrived in India, they brought with them fresh cultural influences that merged with pre-existing customs, resulting in the development of an original creative style. Recognized for their support of the arts, the Mughals acknowledged the delicate beauty of Kalamkari and worked to further its growth. The themes and motifs employed in Kalamkari underwent a change at this time, with the conventional representations of Hindu mythology being accompanied by distinctly Persian-inspired designs, including geometric shapes, arabesques, and elaborate flower patterns. A harmonic fusion of Islamic and Hindu creative traditions could be seen in the workmanship, signifying the syncretic culture that typified much of India during the Islamic era.

The art saw more modification and reached its zenith in the medieval Islamic rule. This was under the Golconda rule (Golconda Nizams rule). It was the Mughals who played a vital role in encouraging the development of the Kalamkari art. People called the artisans. who learned and practiced Kalamari, as Kalamkars, and this is how the name 'Kalamkari' emerged. Before this time, Kalamkari was called Pattachitra, ('Patta' meaning 'Cloth', and 'Chitra' meaning 'Picture'). Now Kalamkari received a high influence of Persian art under Islamic rule. It was the period when this art form was at its peak.

During this time, textiles tailored to the preferences of the Mughal royalty were produced by "kalamkars," or Kalamkari artists. These comprised intricate prayer rugs, wall hangings, and, most prominently, sophisticatedly designed shawls. Though the color pallet broadened to incorporate more sophisticated and subdued tones preferred by the Mughal court, the use of natural dyes remained a fundamental component of the trade. Additionally, the Mughal influence promoted a more sophisticated and meticulous approach to Kalamkari, with craftsmen focusing more on the accuracy and delicacy of their work. The resultant textiles not only served as useful items but also as artistic creations that showcased the opulent way of life and refined taste of the Mughal aristocracy.

The international reputation of Kalamkari also began during the Mughal era, when Indian textiles—including those produced with Kalamkari techniques—became highly prized trade items. Due to the extraordinary quality and distinctive designs of these fabrics, merchants from Europe and the Middle East became interested in them, creating a thriving export business. European purchasers took a particular interest in kalamkari shawls because of their exotic beauty and fine craftsmanship. Thus, the Kalamkari art evolved during this period of Islamic governance, becoming a worldwide known form of artistic expression rather than a strictly religious and local trade. This era's influence may still be seen today, as contemporary Kalamkari continues to be influenced by the diverse range of cultures that shaped its history.

A Muslim shawl-making family shown in Cashmere shawl manufactory, 1867, chromolith., William Simpson.
A Muslim shawl-making family shown in Cashmere shawl manufactory, 1867, chromolith., William Simpson.

Also read: Kashmir - The state famous for Pashmina Craft

Kalamkari work is of two different types

Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam are the two main types of Kalamkari art, each having its own distinctive traits and methods.

Srikalahasti Style

Named after the Andhra Pradesh town of Srikalahasti, this style is completely hand-drawn using a pen-like instrument called a "kalam," which is how it is drawn. Often featuring scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata as well as other mythological themes, the Srikalahasti style is renowned for its narrative-driven designs. Natural dyes are used to fill in the detailed patterns and figures that are hand-drawn during the labor-intensive procedure. Characteristics of this style include the use of earthy tones and the emphasis on religious and mythological themes. A priceless example of traditional Indian art, Srikalahasti Kalamkari is widely regarded for its accuracy and creative expression.

Srikalahasti style is actually the detailed hand painting over a shawl. This method uses a brush made from bamboo, and dyes extracted from plants, completely non-chemical. It is produced in a place which is called Srikalahasti in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. This style of art has been registered as one of the geographical indications (GI) from Andhra Pradesh, under the handicraft goods, by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Characteristics of Srikalahasti style

The Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari is distinguished from other textile art styles by a number of unique characteristics, including:

  1. Designs Completely Hand-Drawn: Srikalahasti Kalamkari is completely hand-drawn, in contrast to other Kalamkari forms that could make use of block printing. Artists painstakingly draw intricate designs and figures straight into the fabric using a "kalam," or pen, fashioned from bamboo or tamarind twigs.
  2. Stance of Mythology: The style in question is recognized for its portrayal of narrative sequences from Hindu epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as stories from the Puranas. These scenes are linked to mythological and religious themes. The artwork has great spiritual and cultural significance because the designs usually feature deities, mythological figures, and religious symbols.
  3. Natural Dyes: Only natural dyes made from different plants, roots, minerals, and other organic sources are used in the Srikalahasti style. Earthy reds, browns, indigos, and blacks are typical hues, which are laboriously and delicately applied to the cloth.
  4. Exquisite Detailing: Srikalahasti Kalamkari's hand-drawn style makes for extraordinarily elaborate and detailed designs. The intricate borders, delicate lines, and realistic depictions of people and scenes are typical of the intricate designs, which highlight the artisan's dexterity and expertise.
  5. Work-Intensive Process: The process of making a piece of Srikalahasti Kalamkari is labor-intensive and takes various steps, such as treating the fabric with natural substances like milk and cow dung, drawing the designs, adding the dyes, and washing and drying it several times. This drawn-out procedure guarantees that every piece is exceptional and unique.
  6. Natural Themes and Earthy Toned Paintings: Srikalahasti Kalamkari's main style is traditional, emphasizing earthy tones. Not only is the art a decorative form but it also serves as a vehicle for religious expression and narrative since it frequently reflects the cultural and spiritual ethos of the area.

The Machilipatnam Style

The Machilipatnam Style, so named after the Andhra Pradesh town of Machilipatnam, is renowned for its block-printing method. Machilipatnam Kalamkari, in contrast to Srikalahasti, entails carving elaborate patterns onto wooden blocks, which are subsequently soaked in natural dyes and pressed onto fabric. Larger amounts of cloth can be produced with this process since it produces more consistent and repeating patterns. Islamic art has had a historical effect on Machilipatnam Kalamkari designs, which frequently incorporate geometric patterns, floral motifs, and Persian-inspired features. Sarees, dupattas, and home décor items are frequently made in the brilliant colors and intricate patterns of the Machilipatnam style.

Machilipatnam style means when artisans block paint the fabric. Artists specializing in this method use vegetable dyes.  They apply the dyes to the fabric with the help of wooden blocks. Also called Pedana Kalamkari, artisans carry it out at Pedana. Pedana is a town in the Machilipatnam area of Andhra Pradesh, India. This style evolved during the Mughal rule and the Golconda Sultanate patronized it. Artisans painted Wall hangings, clothing, large fabrics in the Pedana style of Kalamkari. As a matter of fact, a wall hanging from the 15th Century AD is still being displayed in Victoria Museum, London.

Characteristics of The Machilipatnam Style

The following are the salient features of Kalamkari's Machilipatnam style in points:

  1. Block-Printing Technique: This method creates repeating, consistent patterns on cloth by stamping designs onto carved wooden blocks.
  2. Detailed Patterns: Contains intricate and detailed designs, such as geometric shapes, vines, and floral motifs.
  3. Persian and Mughal Influence: Islamic cultural features are reflected in designs through the influence of Persian and Mughal art.
  4. Bright Color Palette: Made using strong, contrasting hues from natural dyes, such as deep reds, indigos, greens, and blacks.
  5. Layered hues: This technique applies several blocks of various hues to produce an effect that is multi-dimensional.
  6. Natural Dyes: For vibrant, long-lasting colors, use dyes derived from natural sources including plants, roots, and minerals.
  7. Durability: The cloth is washed and treated several times to ensure that the colors are deeply absorbed and that it is long-lasting.
  8. Wide Range: A wide range of products are available, including sarees, dupattas, wall hangings, and other home decor items.
  9. Mass Production: The block-printing technology is appropriate for creating vast quantities of textiles.

Process of Kalamkari art

Kalamkari art is a painstaking and multi-step process that combines creative skill and traditional techniques. Here's a summary of the process:

Fabric Preparation: The process begins with preparing the fabric, which is commonly cotton or silk. To eliminate any starch, oil, or other contaminants, the fabric is first washed in a water-cow dung mixture. This is followed by a treatment with a solution of buffalo milk and myrobalan (a tannin-rich berry) to ensure the fabric is ready to absorb natural dyes. Workers use bamboo or date palm stick pens primarily to craft intricate and highly delicate details. As far as dyes are concerned, workers use various roots, seeds, plant leaves, crushed flowers to extract them. The colours chosen then are usually bright and brilliant. Artisans often choose red, yellow, green, blue in their vivid shades to craft a Kalamkari shawl.

Sketching the Design: After preparing the fabric, the artist freehand paints the contours of the design with a bamboo or tamarind pen dipped in a black dye produced from fermented jaggery (an unrefined sugar) and iron filings. This first draft serves as the foundation for the entire piece, outlining the arrangement and design aspects.

Natural Dye Application: After completing the outline, the artist begins filling in the design with natural dyes. Each color is applied one at a time, frequently beginning with lighter colors and progressing to darker ones. Natural colors are used, such as madder root for red, pomegranate peel for yellow, and indigo for blue.

Following each dye application, the fabric is treated to set the color, which commonly includes washing, drying, and boiling.

Color Fixation: Specific methods are used to ensure that the dyed cloth's colors are permanently set in the fabric. For example, after applying red dye, the fabric could be boiled with alizarin (a natural dye) to increase the color's vitality. Each color has its unique way of fixation, which includes a variety of natural chemicals and processes.

Washing and Drying: Once the design is finished and all colors have been applied, the fabric is washed multiple times to remove excess dye and fix the colors. The fabric is then sun-dried to brighten and set the colors even further.

Final Touches: Any last nuances or extra colors are added to the fabric after it has been cleaned and dried. Sometimes, to improve the pattern, further embellishments like gold or silver accents are applied. After that, the finished item is ironed and prepared for usage as a shawl, a piece of home décor, or a clothing.

Depending on the design's complexity and color scheme, the full process may take a few days to a few weeks. The endurance and superior quality of Kalamkari art depend on each phase, which is why it is a highly esteemed and revered craft.

The Introduction of contemporary methods in Kalamkari art

Modern techniques and sensitivities are combined with traditional craftsmanship in Kalamkari art through the adoption of current approaches. By keeping its cultural legacy intact and adjusting it to modern trends, this evolution has increased Kalamkari's significance and reach. This is a summary of how modern techniques have been incorporated into Kalamkari art:

Modern Kalamkari artists are experimenting with fresh design patterns and styles that fuse traditional themes with contemporary aesthetics. This entails utilizing geometric patterns, abstract patterns, and avant-garde color palettes that satisfy vogue and interior design inclinations.

Digital Printing: Digital technology is now present in Kalamkari, especially in the form of digital prints that accurately reproduce traditional designs. This technique satisfies contemporary market demands while maintaining the essential elements of traditional motifs through faster production and more consistent patterns.

Novel Textiles: Modern Kalamkari artists explore with a range of materials other than the conventional cotton and silk, such as synthetics and mixes. The range of uses for Kalamkari is expanded by this exploration, extending beyond home décor and fashion accessories.

Merged Designs: Modern Kalamkari combines modern and international design elements with traditional motifs, patterns, and themes. The result of this mix is distinctive, hybrid designs that blend well with modern fashion and décor while appealing to a wider audience.

New Methods: In addition to more conventional approaches, modern artists are experimenting with new tools and techniques. More intricate and varied patterns are possible thanks to these advancements, which also expedite the process.

Sustainable ways: In Kalamkari art today, there's a rising focus on sustainability. In keeping with the worldwide trends toward environmental responsibility. Artists and producers are embracing eco-friendly techniques, such as employing sustainable textiles and organic dyes.

Partnerships and Cross-Disciplinary Work: To create cutting-edge goods and applications, contemporary Kalamkari artists frequently work in tandem with designers, architects, and other creatives. By using a cross-disciplinary approach, Kalamkari art now used in more fields, including modern fashion and interior design.

Integration of Artisanal and Industrial Production: Modern approaches occasionally combine industrial production with artisanal practices. Scaled-up production uses modern technology to satisfy larger market demands, while traditional methods are maintained for handcrafted or high-end goods.

By preserving its rich history while guaranteeing Kalamkari art's relevance and attractiveness in the modern global market. These modern techniques have revitalized the art form. Artists keep this old skill alive and dynamic by celebrating it and evolving it with modern ideas and techniques.

Motifs used in Kalamkari Art

Rich and detailed motifs, which capture the breadth of Indian cultural and creative traditions, are the hallmark of kalamkari shawls. These shawls' common designs, frequently inspired by historical accounts, natural phenomena, and Hindu mythology. Extensive representations of gods and goddesses, including Durga, Krishna, and Vishnu, are a feature of traditional designs. These figures, frequently shown in animated and expressive stances. Popular mythological sequences with dramatic occurrences and divine characters thus found in the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The stories' essence, captured by these painstakingly hand-painted or block-printed designs. Also, give the shawls a deeper cultural and spiritual meaning.

kalamkari pashmina shawl
A vintage at heart, a Pashmina shawl like this has never failed to impress

Before modernity influenced every realm of life, Kalamkari shawls featured motifs related to religion. Paintings of Hindu deities, some well-known mythological creatures, and symbols, scenes from famous folklores. Also, classics from Hindu Scriptures are the inspirations that artisans draw to make patterns. Contemporary patterns include flowers, peacocks, large paisleys, animal motifs, and even geometrical designs.

Kalamkari shawls often have geometric and floral motifs in addition to religious and mythological themes. These patterns, frequently influenced by Persian and Mughal art elements absorbed into the craft over ages. These themes, used in a way that harmonizes heritage with artistic expression, in addition to adding visual attractiveness. Every Kalamkari shawl, a wearable work of art that celebrates India's rich cultural legacy. It displays the artistry and ability of the craftspeople via its distinctive blend of themes and patterns.

What are Kalamkari Pashmina Shawls?

When it comes to Pashmina shawls, artisans from Kashmir too imbibed this beautiful craft in pure Pashmina shawls. After painting Pashmina shawls with Kalamkari, artisans here hand embroider around the motifs in black. This is another step, in addition to the exquisite steps of Kalamkari. After artisans hand-paint motifs onto the surface of the shawl, they choose a matching. This too takes a lot of time, as Kashmiri Sozni Kars (artisans specializing in Sozni Kari). Thus, give attention to each detail and each motif closely. The final result of a Kalamka.ri and Sozni rendezvous is simply beyond comparison.

Also read: Pashmina belongs to the Clan of Originality

Styles to wear a Kalamkari shawl

Kalamkari shawls carry a detailed, intricate design. These feature magnificent art and flaunt-worthy motifs all over the base. Hence the styles to wear them usually include those where the base is pretty visible. Here are a few styles to wear a handmade Kalamkari Pashmina shawl

Washing, Drying, Ironing and Storing a Kalamkari shawl

Kalamkari Pashmina shawl is a delicate accessory. Hence one should wash it gently. The process of washing the Kalamkari shawl has to be extremely careful. The colours thus natural, and hence should not be lost with vigorous washing. Kalamkari shawls should not be exposed to much sunlight, lest the colors fade. 

Washing: Kalamkari shawls, best washed in Cashmere shampoos or Pashmina shampoos because these are delicate. Add Pashmina shampoo to lukewarm water, and soak your Kalamkari shawl in it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove soap water with your hands by gently squeezing the shawl between your hands. 

Drying: Do not wring the shawl. Dry the shawl in shade, and not in direct sunlight. 

Ironing: Ironing a Kalamkari shawl shouldn't be done directly. There should be a cotton cloth placed in between, or simply a steam iron should be used.  

Storing: Store the shawl in a dry, moisture-free place. Keep mothballs along to stop any infestations. Wrap the shawl in a muslin cloth or paper wrapping. Avoid plastic at all costs.

Handwashing a Kalamkari Pashmina, considered a better option against dry cleaning. Taking proper care of your shawl will increase its life, and it will be a companion for generations to come.

Pashmina shawls and Pashmina.com

Be it Kalamkari Pashmina shawls, hand-embroidered shawls, Printed Pashmina, Laced Pashmina shawls, Kani shawls, or other categories of Pashmina, we master each assortment in terms of variety, patterns, and elegance. Each piece from our classic collections is unique, and exclusive, with features that are unparalleled. Our artisans take months or even years together to perfect each piece. From the time when Cashmere acquired from Ladakh in Spring to its sale in winter. Each step is carefully and meticulously carried out, and how we end up with pure, authentic, and the best quality Pashmina shawls. 

Sustainability and Pashmina.com

kalamkari shawl
A scene has been chosen by the artisan, and he plans to draw it with the help of natural paints and a bamboo pen

Ethical production, sustainability, and fair trade are the core values at Pashmina.com. Be it Kalamkari shawls, Kani shawls, or Hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls, every single piece from our assortment repels cruelty to animals or the planet as a whole. The shawls, ethically acquired from Ladakh, where their raw material is grown over the underbelly of a goat. The goat naturally sheds a portion of the wool; gently combed off (and not sheared or plucked off) its body. 

The wool, called Cashmere, not sent for spinning to convert it into yarn. Yarn is handwoven using traditional handloom and manual techniques to transform fine yarn into luxury shawls. The shawls still plain, which are hand-painted in the realms of Kalamkari (when handcrafting a Kalamkari shawl). Later these hand embroidered in the realms of Sozni embroidery. This leads to the completion of a Pashmina shawl. Thus, sold in the market for the patrons of the art to cherish. 

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?

From the time of traditions to the time of the contemporary age, Pashmina Art has been cherished endlessly. The marvellous designs in the Art of Pashmina are explicit. The crafting of the finest Cashmere from Ladakh is the Art of Pashmina. Therefore, finest Cashmere defines the name of Pashmina Art in numerous ways. In addition, several styles are curated to cherish the moments of skill of the artisans. There are diverse designs that are exuberant and intricate. The valley of Kashmir recites the luxury of Pashmina Art in its heritage poems. Pashmina Art is blessed with diverse designs. Based on embroideries, patterns, prints and Weaves, there are many designs. One among the opulent design is the supreme Kani Weave. Before going on the journey of crafting the Kani Weave Pashmina, there needs to be the mention of exquisite procurement of finest Cashmere.

The Procurement of fine Cashmere for Kani Weave Pashmina

The Changhthanghi mountain in the Ladakh region is the high altitude plateau. The climate changes in every sphere of the world. Likewise, the region gets up to -20°C in the winter season. Some species and breeds adapted to the harsh climate by coping with the cold. A rare breed of Goats called Changra goats dwells in the feet of Changhthanghi Mountain. They are medium-sized goats with two horns that are twisted. To combat the harsh winters, the Changra Goats develop an undercoat of thick wool. The wool is grown especially under the belly, behind the ears and on the neck region. The wool is thick and soft. Eventually, when seasons change, the goats lose their wool against rocks and trees. Thus, getting the fresh air of summer. The wool is also manually combed out by the Changpa herders. This wool is called Cashmere wool.

cashmere goat
Changra goat in Ladakh

Cashmere wool is procured from several breeds of goats. Mongolian breed, luliang breed, Xinghing breed, Australian breed, Changhthanghi or Ladakh breed, etc. Among all the breeds, the finest Cashmere is procured from Changra Goats of Ladakh. Although, the amount of production is almost 1% of the total production of Cashmere from all the breeds. That is why Changhthanghi Cashmere is the finest and most expensive due to low production. Also, the extensive and high-quality procurement makes it the finest Cashmere with a luxurious aura.

Further, Pashmina Art comes into existence

The small packets that are packed in the Ladakh region are transferred to the Valley of Kashmir. The tufts of wool are cleaned and soaked. All the dust and grime is taken out. Afterwards, the Cashmere wool tufts are dried in sunlight to preserve the quality of genuineness. It is to be noted that Pashmina Art begins as soon as the cleaning process starts.

The fine Cashmere wool is distributed to the households of the Valley for the next process called Spinning. The process of Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to high-quality Cashmere yarn. After reaching the households, the women artisans of the valley work upon a wooden wheel called yinder. The wooden wheel is the medium by which the fine Cashmere wool is translated to premium Cashmere yarn. Women work enthusiastically on the process. With the folklore and folk songs of the Valley, women meticulously craft the Cashmere yarn of supremacy.

Simple Weaving in Pashmina Art

Pashmina Weaving
Pashmina Weaving

The fine Cashmere yarn is crafted to the fine Cashmere fabric in the local workshops or karkhanas. The unique installation of handlooms used for the next process is set up with serenity. Handlooms are looms made of forest wood. They are many worked upon by the artisans to present the world with Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the whole process of translating Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric is called Weaving. Weaving is mainly done by the male artisans of the Valley. It is precisely done in the space of karkhanas by highly skilled artisans.

Kani Weave in Pashmina Art

The Kani Weave in Pashmina was originated in the era of 3000 B.C. Mughals have been into its intricate designs and exquisite presence from that century of time. The Kani word belongs to the dialect of the Kashmiri language where it has roots in the place of Kanihama, Ganderbal. Moreover, the name also belongs to the meaning of small twig-like sticks. They are called Kanis in the local language Kashmiri.

After the procurement of the finest Cashmere, spinning, and weaving occurs. The weaving of Kani Pashmina is not the simple weaving usually done in Pashmina Art. It is the most intricate weave that is done with the help of Kanis/ small twigs. Thus, creating a marvellous design on the finest Cashmere base. Before commencing the weaving, the Pashmina Shawls are given a specific pattern on graph paper unlike other styles of shawls where the patterns are imprinted in the base of the shawl itself. For each pattern known as, “Taleem”, the codes are written on the graph paper are given by local people.  The artisans read and understand the codes and start the weaving process with precision.

Also read: WHAT IS THE KANI SHAWL MADE OF?

Kani Weave Commences

The weaving begins by whirling the colourful threads around the Kanis making small spindles. The artisans skillfully do the weave with their hands. They work upon the handloom by using their hands by moving their spindles of threads accordingly. A particular number of Kanis are used for the weaving of one Kani shawl. Around 70 to 100 Kanis are used up for the design of one Kani Pashmina Shawl. The whole process is done mainly in the local workshops/Karkhanas.

making of kani pashmina
Making of Kani Pashmina

Also, the arrangement of the Kanis on the shawls and the high skill of artisans perform meticulously to create the intricate designs. The weaving is done gradually and when a different colour or shade is required as per the Taleem, two Kanis are used together. Likewise, the process continues with diligence until the Kani Shawl is prepared.

Exquisite Pashmina Art Collection

kani pashmina
Baaraan is a confluence of two non pareil art forms - Kani and Pashmina

We, at Pashmina.com, prefer the boundaries of Kashmir Valley. Within the culture and tradition, live the enchanted skilled artisans. Thus, they meticulously craft the finest Cashmere to several exquisite accessories of elegance. The artisans craft the accessories with diligence and precision. Also, the high-quality fine Cashmere is cherished with elegance and thus crafted to the Pashmina Art collection. Every masterpiece is worthy of a luxurious presence.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWL | QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

It's not just magicians who perform magic with colourful scarves. Many of us can do magic with these versatile accessories too. Celebrities around us have already been doing so. For example, contrasting an all-black look with a yellow scarf, or enlivening a basic look with a scarf full of colours. Tying a scarf on the head is the newest way of wearing it. It looks amazing, as well as serves some secret purposes. If you have a bad hair day, or you ruin your hairstyle somehow, this super accessory can hide it with ease and style. 

Even though scarves are available in different styles and fabrics, our favorite remains the Pashmina scarf from Kashmir. Pashmina scarves are timeless, graceful and exceptionally comfortable to wear. They have been so since the 16th century when their raw material was discovered in Ladakh. 

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls and scarves from fine Cashmere wool. This wool comes from a rare Ladakhi goat, which grows it in winters to protect itself and survive a temperature of -40 degrees. As summer arrives, the goat naturally sheds this wool, which is carried by herders. This wool is cleaned, spun, handwoven and transformed into heavenly soft, warm and beautiful scarves or shawls. These are the world-famous Pashmina shawls

How to tie a Pashmina scarf on the head?

ombre pashmina headscarf
Evocative of the pineapple mango daiquiris, this handwoven pashmina head scarf is as refreshing as the drink itself

While there are hundreds of styles of wearing a Pashmina scarf, wearing it on your head makes it the first thing that people notice. And it's not because of its sheer grace, but the breathtaking colours it has managed to acquire. From pastels, nudes to warm brights, and rainbow colours, Pashmina scarves have it all.

Tying a scarf on your head can be a stylish and practical way to accessorize your outfit as well as protect your hair. There are numerous ways to tie a scarf on your head, depending on the look you want to achieve. Here are a few popular methods which make wearing a scarf fun as well as useful

The Bow Style

The Crown Style

Side Tail

Little Pony Tail

Bun Style

The Hijab Style

Also read: 9 Luxury Pashmina Headscarves in Signature Styles

Turban Style 

Also read: How to wear a Pashmina Scarf with a Formal Dress?

Keep in mind to position and adjust the scarf for the desired style and tightness. To create distinctive appearances that complement your individual style and wardrobe, try with various scarf sizes, materials, and patterns. Don't be scared to experiment with several methods until you find the one that works best for you because practise makes perfect.

Types of Pashmina Scarves

Based on the type of scarf, one can have as many choices of wearing scarves on their head, as are possible. Here are the different types of Pashmina scarves that artisans craft for a blissful winter experience.

Hand Embroidered Pashmina Scarves:

Hand Embroidered Scarves tend to be heavy. Hence if one wants to wear an full embroidery scarf in a bun style or a turban style, the scarf would look huge. Instead, with a heavy embroidered scarf, place the scarf on your head half way (almost on the crown) and secure the same with a pin. This way, the weight of the embroidery would not affect your comfort, and you will be able to carry the embroidered scarf easily.

Kani Weave Pashmina scarves

The exquisite softness and warmth of Cashmere are combined with the intricate skill of Kani weaving to create opulent and beautifully woven Kani Pashmina scarves. These scarves are handwoven by utmostly skilled artisans, using vintage wooden looms and time-honored methods. Kani weave scarves are usually heavy worked, and hence might make one uncomfortable if placed on head. Hence it is better to invest in a Kani Pashmina scarf with a Palldaar patterns, so that the main body of the scarf remains solid and easy to wrap over the head.

Reversible Pashmina Scarves

A chic and functional approach to accessorize your style is by donning a reversible scarf around your head. By simply flipping the scarf to expose the other side, the reversible function enables you to create many combinations and designs. Reversible scarves in Pashmina, if not embroidered can be great for covering the head and hence ideal for winters and other colder days in Spring or Fall. Create distinctive appearances that complement your attire and mood, get inventive and experiment with various knots, twists, and draping techniques.

Solid Pashmina Scarves

A solid Pashmina scarf offers endless possibilities for stylish and versatile looks. Solid Pashmina scarves are the easiest to cover your hair with and is a perfect head scarf when it comes to winters. The softness of Cashmere allows the scarf to stay freely on the head. Solid Pashmina scarves are versatile accessories that can elevate any outfit. Never be afraid experiment and have fun with uniquely styles that you yourself create!

The natural fibres around the world are of exquisite quality. The uniqueness and luxury of Cashmere are up to the highest mark. The warmth, style poured by the Cashmere onto the wearer mesmerizes the fashion world with luxurious fashion. The thin, soft exquisitely finest fibre is the Cashmere fibre. The serenity touched with the meticulous Cashmere gives rise to diverse accessories of fashion. The valley of Kashmir plays an enigmatic role in the tale. Hence, the curation of the finest Cashmere into luxurious accessories is the Art of Pashmina. Therefore, Art is the bountiful gift of the Kashmir valley.

From the Changhthanghi plateau

The Changhthanghi plateau is a high-altitude region. The minimum temperature goes more than to minus 20°C in winters. The rarest breed of goats called the Changra goats dwells in the feet of the mountain Changhthanghi. In the harsh winters, the Changra goats meticulously develop a thick layer of wool on their bodies. Thus, to overcome the cold. With the changing of seasons, the Changra goats shed off the thick wool by rubbing against rocks and trees to comfort the heat of summer. Also, its manually done by the Changpa tribe who are the herders of the Changra goats. They manually comb the thick wool out. The wool is called Cashmere wool.

changthangi goat being combed
Changthangi goat being combed gently

Afterwards, the wool is sorted into packets and transferred to the Kashmir Valley. From now on, the procedures in the Art of Pashmina befalls upon the dainty wool. Hence, the commencement of Pashmina Art begins. The proper cleaning, drying, and brushing out the dirt and dust from the finest wool is done manually. Afterwards, the finest wool is spun into yarn by the process of Spinning. The spinning is mostly done by the women of the Valley. The highly skilled and patient women spun the wool to magical yarn. Therefore, the yarn goes to the looms for the process of weaving. The weaving process is done by the highly skilled artisans on the handloom made of forest wood.

Thus, the Cashmere wool is altogether converted to fine and soft Cashmere fabric by the Art of Pashmina. The fine Cashmere fabric is further worked upon by the skilled artisans to define the Pashmina Art prosperously. Hence, the diverse range of collections of Cashmere by the Art of Pashmina is exquisite due to the skill and heritage of the Kashmir valley.

Cashmere fibre is the finest fibre

Although, Cashmere is obtained from several breeds of Goats around the world. In the majority, the Cashmere producing goats are found in Mongolia, China, Nepal, Iran, etc. The distinct breeds like Malra breed, Liaoning breed, Licheng breed, Luliang breed, Tibetan breed, Changhthanghi breed, etc. In all the breeds, the Changhthanghi breed is the finest. It is up to 12 to 16 microns. While another breed produces coarser than the finest breed. It is the finest and most delicate fibre. That is why in Pashmina Art, Ladakhi Cashmere is always spun or woven manually.

Cashmere- From the rarest breed

The Changra goats or the Kashmir goats are the rarest. They are only found in the Changhthanghi plateau of the Ladakh region. The Changra goats are medium-sized, fluffy and mushy goats with twisted horns. They grow a thick pelage on their bodies in the harsh winters especially under the bellies, on the neck, and behind the ears. The same pelage is therefore crafted to get the finest Cashmere.

cashmere goat
Changpa goats in Ladakh

The Changra goats graze on green grass in the Changhthanghi region. Therefore, they are mainly raised by the tribe of Changpa for Cashmere production. They are also raised for meat production. It is the rarest breed as the Changra goats produce only 150 to 180 gms of Cashmere wool per year. The finest Cashmere wool belongs to the rarest Changra goats due to their minimal production of Cashmere wool per annum. Henceforth, the expensive and luxurious quality is predefined due to the rare production.

Embraced by the Pashmina Art

The Art of Pashmina commences as soon as the finest Cashmere reaches the valley of Kashmir. The several steps go on the journey of creativity. The path aided by the highly skilled artisans is divine. The packets of fine wool travel to the Valley from Ladakh. Thereafter, the fine wool is cleaned thoroughly and sorted. Afterwards, the cleaned fine wool is spun by the womenfolk of the valley diligently. Therefore, the miraculous Cashmere yarn comes into existence. The spinning process is done on the wooden wheel called yinder in the local language. The women patiently pick up the Cashmere wool and spin it on the wheel with the delicacy of skill. Thus, the finest Cashmere yarn is ready for the next process of weaving.

making of pashmina
Making of Pashmina

The weaving process starts as soon as the fine yarn reaches the handlooms of the valley. The handlooms craft the yarn into the finest fabric of Cashmere. The handlooms are worked upon by the highly skilled artisans by using hands and feet simultaneously to get the finished product of Cashmere. There are small local workshops for the weaving process called Karkhanas in the local language. The aura of the karkhanas has the music of tradition as well the smell of culture around. The artisans meticulously work together to bring the exquisite Cashmere. After all these basic processes the designing and dyeing processes commence. All the procedures are the steps of Pashmina Art.

Also read: THE TRANCE OF PASHMINA ART

Glorious Collection of Pashmina Art

zari pashmina shawl
A canvas of emotions, holding up stories, soaked in deep colours is what this Pashmina right here portends

We, at pashmina.com, cater to the huge and exquisite collection of Pashmina Art. The curation of finest Ladakhi Cashmere to several explicit accessories like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps, and Pashmina Shawls is called the Pashmina Art. Our platform confers to all genders. The exquisite collection brings the joy of luxury to the wearer's face. The opulence brought by the highly skilled artisans caters to the fashion world with glamour. Ethically created from the rarest breed to form the finest Cashmere. Thus, worked upon by the Pashmina Art in the horizons of the heritage of the valley of Kashmir. Therefore, the finest Cashmere confers to the glamorous collection of accessories like Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls.

Also read: THE TRUE BEAUTY OF PASHMINA SHAWLS

Pashmina Art is the Crafting of the finest Cashmere. The finest Cashmere from the feet of the Changhthanghi mountains is obtained manually to preserve the premium quality. From the old ages to the contemporary age, the legacy of Pashmina Art is adored in every way of elegance. Moving with the dimensions of several Cashmere accessories, the supreme luxury is profound. The beauty of the unique heritage of Kashmir Valley is lived in the whole realm of horizons. In addition, the Cashmere accessories like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls are marvellous in their creation. Therefore, the legacy is preserved by the masters of the Pashmina Art. The artisans of the Kashmir Valley are lifelong masters of the craft.

The Announce of the finest Cashmere

The Changhthanghi Mountains of Ladakh are the coldest in winters. The harsh climate urges a rare breed of goats to develop thick wool on their bodies. The rare breed of goats is the Changra Goats. The Changra goats shed off the thick wool in summer to feel the freshness. The wool is also combed out by the herders of the Changpa tribe. The herders graze the Changra goats mainly for the production of wool. The wool is known as Cashmere wool. Also, the Ladakhi Cashmere wool is the finest of all Cashmere wool. There are several countries like Mongolia, Iran, and Tibet where there are Cashmere producing goats. The Changra breed of goats is the rarest species of Cashmere producing goats. Thus, these Changra Goats are medium-sized goats with two long twisted horns. The Changra goats are mainly grazed to procure Cashmere wool.

cashmere goat
Changra goat in Ladakh

Several species of Goats produce Cashmere wool in abundance. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats.

The Commencing of Pashmina Art

Pashmina Art starts as soon as the tufts of fine Cashmere wool reach the Valley of Kashmir. The process of cleaning is the first step of Pashmina Art. The next step is the drying of the cleaned Cashmere wool. After the cleaning and drying, the fine Cashmere wool is distributed to the households of the Kashmir Valley. The Cashmere wool is translated to the Cashmere yarn on the wooden wheel called yinder. The unique way of using a yinder is enhanced by the womenfolk. The whole process is called Spinning. It is mainly done by women artisans.

Raw cashmere fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

Further, the fine Cashmere yarn is crafted to the fine Cashmere fabric in the local workshops or karkhanas. The unique installation of handlooms used for the next process is set up with serenity. Handlooms are looms made of forest wood. They are many worked upon by the artisans to present the world with Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the whole process of translating Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric is called Weaving. Weaving is mainly done by the male artisans of the Valley. It is precisely done in the space of karkhanas by highly skilled artisans.

Diverse Styles of Pashmina Art

The diverse and distinct ways of Pashmina Art are determined by the handloom of the Valley. Thus, the dimensions of every masterpiece determine its faith in style. There are three main styles of Pashmina Art; Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls.

Exquisite Cashmere Scarves

swarovski studded pashmina scarf
an artisan weaves a Kashmiri Pashmina and lights it up with Swarovski studs

Cashmere Scarves are the exquisite accessories that define serenity. The Cashmere scarves were given the requisite shades of colours, intricate weave, and embroidery by the skilled artisans are explicit. Therefore, their exquisite nature of them is well defined in the world of craft through Pashmina Art. Furthermore, the versatile Pashmina Art of the valley confers to the creation of the opulent Cashmere Scarves in the most ethical way. The two dimensions of them in the master collection are; 80in x 14in/2m x 35cm & 80in x 28in/2m x 70cm. The three unique designs are Ombre Scarves, Solid Scarves and Swarovski Crystals Scarves.

Also read: DO VEGANS WEAR CASHMERE SCARF?

Cashmere Wraps

ombre cashmere wrap
Handwoven over the classic wooden handloom with utmost precision, this piece of treasure has been soaked in the sunset

Cashmere Wraps create an aura of exclusiveness and integrity. They are profuse in the luxury of premium creation as well as high-quality Ladakhi Cashmere. In addition, the opulence of the high-quality Cashmere is prefered by all the classes of fashion. Also, Cashmere wraps cater to men and women of every horizon. Being a stylized and elegant accessory, Cashmere Wraps prevail in every generation. From the contemporary style to the Old royalty, Cashmere Wraps have prolonged along with all generations. In addition, the size of a premium Wrap is 80in x 28in/2m x 70cm. There are diverse designs in the Cashmere Wraps.

Pashmina Shawls

kalamkari shawl
This art is kalamkari and is painted upon a Pashmina shawl, making it look marvellous and extraordinarily beautiful

Pashmina Shawls are the outer clothing of luxury. The elegance of Pashmina Shawls comes into play when the winter is cherished with the Pashmina shawls of luxurious craft. Also, the intricacy and the premium look of the Pashmina shawl confer upon a wearer with glory. Moreover, hand Crafted Pashmina Shawls can be worn over the shoulders, up around the upper body and sideways along the length. In all the styles of wearing, elegance remains enhanced in the sphere of fashion. In addition, the premium sizes are; 80in x 40in/2m x 1m
90in x 45in/2.2m x 1.1m & 110in x 55in/2.8m x 1.4m.

Pashmina Art dignified Collection

There are innumerable designs in the Collection of Pashmina Art. The unique definition of Pashmina Art is cherished in the sphere of Kashmir Valley. We, at pashmina.com, preserve the purity and authenticity of each masterpiece. We determine the value of heritage and culture in every weave, print or embroidery. Belonging to the artisans of the Kashmir Valley, the skill is enhanced by the regular crafting of Pashmina Art accessories. The supremely crafted finest Cashmere from Ladakh is varied with several processes. Thus, creating an aura and presence of high-quality premium Pashmina Art accessories. Having one of the masterpieces will clamour the name of the finest Cashmere in the presence of fashion. Therefore, the luxurious glory is retained in every masterpiece.

Also read: THE VOWS OF PASHMINA ART

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere from the region of Ladakh. There is the procurement of the finest cashmere from the Changra Goats. Afterwards, workers transfer the tufts of wool to the Valley of Kashmir for the Art of Pashmina. Pashmina Art cherishes every inch of fine Cashmere. Thus, there is the production of endless luxurious accessories. There are three major styles of accessories in Pashmina Art. They are; Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. These styles further host the diverse designs. The several designs cater to the world of fashion with enhancement to luxurious being. One among them is the Printed Pashmina. The versatile crafting of Printed Pashmina begins in the Changhthanghi.

A glimpse of the history of Pashmina Art

The history dates back to the 13th century when a saint from the Middle East was travelling to the Kashmir valley. He was on his journey to the valley with his 700 craftsmen. While on his journey, he landed in the land of Ladakh. He was enthralled to see the Changhthanghi mountain and the breed of goats there. It was a rare breed of goats - the Changra Goats. Some even call these goat 'Cashmere Goats'. The goats were so amazing to look at as their wool undercoat was soft. The saint combed some wool out and made a pair of socks out of it. He gifted them to the ruler of Kashmir valley. In addition, suggested the ruler make a small industry for the curation of this fine wool. This wool is the Cashmere wool.

Fine Cashmere- The Initiation of Pashmina Art

cashmere goats in ladakh
Changhthanghi mountains of Ladakh

The Changhthanghi mountains of Ladakh are the coldest during winters. The harsh climate many creatures to withstand the minus temperature. A rare breed of goats dwells in the feet of Changhthanghi mountain. In the winter season, the Goats develop an undercoat of thick wool on their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh weather. Eventually, in summer the goats shed off the undercoat against rocks and trees. Also, the Changpa herders manually comb out the thick wool. The wool is the softest and finest. It is the Cashmere wool. The Ladakhi Cashmere is the finest because it is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Although the Ladakhi Cashmere contributes to less than 1 % of the total production of Cashmere in the world it is the premium Cashmere.

Several breeds produce the Cashmere for Pashmina Art. Among all the breeds of Cashmere producing goats, the Changhthanghi breed is the finest. They produce the finest Cashmere wool. The Changra goats of Ladakh produce the less abundant Cashmere wool but the finest Cashmere wool. The beauty of procuring wool from Changra Goats of Ladakh determines the purity and fineness of the Ladhaki Cashmere.

Printed Pashmina- By Process of Pashmina Art

The Cashmere wool reaches the Valley in small packets. Workers thoroughly clean and dry it. Later womefolk of the valley work on it. The premium Cashmere wool converts to Cashmere yarn by the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous process of transforming the fine Cashmere wool to premium Cashmere yarn. Women artisans do it on the wooden wheel called yinder. The women work diligently over the Cashmere wool to present the high skill of intricacy. The mesmerising beauty of yinder and the whole process befits the elegance of Pashmina Art with precision.

Afterwards, the next step is the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to premium quality Cashmere fabric. Then, the highly skilled artisans work upon the wooden handlooms in the local workshops or karkhanas. The opulent Cashmere fabric exists because of the precision of artisans. Therefore, they meticulously work on the handlooms. The generational Art of Pashmina defines their being. They are the masters of the Craft.

weaving cashmere
Weaving a Pashmina

Afterwards, the designing of the fine Cashmere Fabric is initiated as per the design. Thus, the next step in the process of Pashmina Art is the designing of several styles of Pashmina Art. The design includes; the embroideries, the patterns, the weaves, the gradient dyes, the magnificent prints. The unique definition of digital prints well defines the nature of Printed Pashmina styles. One among all the marvellous designs is the Printed Pashmina. Printed Pashmina is the style of Pashmina where the finest Cashmere fabric is taken to the digital printing process.

Also read: The Art of Weaving a Pashmina shawl

The Tale of Printed Pashmina

The Printed Pashmina are the magnificent creations of Pashmina Art. The digital prints on the finely crafted Cashmere fabric supremely define the glory of luxury. Moreover, the unique designs in the warm Cashmere fabric confer to the finest Cashmere of Ladakh The unique features of the Printed Pashmina unravel the significant skill of artisans of the valley.

printed cashmere wrap
 A brilliantly curated Cashmere wrap hosts a Mughal hunting scene where kings of the 18th century can be seen engaged in a magnificent battle

In the dimensions of Cashmere Wraps, there are diverse varieties of Cashmere Wraps in Pashmina Art. From Solid Cashmere to the Kani Cashmere Wraps, the exquisitely premium quality is retained. The fine Cashmere base from Ladakhi Changra goats is worked upon by the highly skilled artisans. The digital prints have themes related to the tales of culture, heritage and religious figurines. The unique prints cater to the premium quality fashion luxuries of Pashmina Art.

In terms of the dimensions of Pashmina Shawls, the exquisite Printed Pashmina Shawls are defined with the elegance of fashion. The luxury full of unique digital prints caters to both men and women. The Exquisite prints define the dimensions of Pashmina shawls with contemporary themes also. The marvellous Pashmina Shawls with exquisite prints is in itself a masterpiece of creativity. The artisans with high skill craft the fine Cashmere base. Thus, presenting nature with the explicitness of fashion. The Printed Pashmina Shawls speaks off the luxury of traditional as well as contemporary themes.

Also read: Cashmere Wraps for Travel

Collection of Pashmina Art

We, at pashmina.com, prefer the Valley of Kashmir for its beauty and natural heritage. The culture depicts the value of hand skilled artisans. Thus, crafting the masterpieces of Pashmina Art is evident. The unique ways of crafting the finest Cashmere from Ladakh is foreseen on the virtue of purity and authenticity. Reviving the generational craft leads to the marvellous presence of Luxurious fashion. Having one of the masterpieces will enhance the glory of heritage as well as present a dimension of love and skill.

Also read: The everlasting glory of Pashmina Shawls

In all the colours of nature, the craft of Pashmina bestows its essence. Belonging to the heritage of Kashmir Valley, the Craft cherishes every form and design of the culture. The unique definition of designs is marvellously crafted on the horizon of Kashmir Valley. This is known that the crafting of fine Cashmere into glorious accessories is the Art of Pashmina. In addition, the Pashmina Art has a diverse range of aspects of accessories like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. Beneath the three forms are the countless designs of the Pashmina Art. From Solid or Plain Pashmina to the Kani Pashmina, the tranquillity is cherished. One of the exquisite styles of design is the Ombre Pashmina. The gradations in the shades of diverse colours on the finest Cashmere present a look of tranquillity.

Ombre Pashmina- From the finest Cashmere of Ladakh

cashmere goat
Changra goats in Ladakh

The Changhthanghi region is the coldest in the winter season. The species of animals and plants suffer due to the cold season. Eventually, they develop a mechanism to protect themselves from the harsh winter. Therefore, the Changra Goat, a rare species of goat develop a coat of wool over their bodies. The thick and soft wool protects them from the coldness of winter. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. They are mainly grazed by the Changpa tribe herders. The wool developed on them in the winter season is eventually shed off in summer. The herders of the Changpa tribe also comb out the excess wool by hand. This wool is called the finest Cashmere wool. It is to ve noted that the process of combing out wool is done manually. Thus, securing the quality and delicacy of the Cashmere wool.

There are several breeds of Goats that produce the Cashmere wool. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Among all, the Changhthanghi Cashmere wool is the finest. Also, it is produced in a very less amount than correlated to the other breeds. It is due to the rarity of the Changra species Goats. Further, the tufts of wool are transferred to the Valley of Kashmir for premium crafting in the name of Pashmina Art.

Also read: PASHMINA BELONGS TO THE CLAN OF ORIGINALITY

Ombre Pashmina- In the name of Pashmina Art

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. The crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is tidied and soaked. This marks the beginning of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form.

Raw cashmere fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

Moreover, the cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley. The unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. Women work meticulously in their households while performing the daily chores. The way they hold the yinder in front of their body and start the process of Spinning is specific. The aura of the household is filled with the feeling of culture as the women hum the Kashmiri folk songs in their voices of skill. Hence, the whole process is vividly performed with high accuracy.

The story of Weaving in Pashmina Art

Pashmina Weaving
Artisan weaving Pashmina on handloom

Further, the fine Cashmere yarn is crafted to the fine Cashmere fabric in the local workshops or karkhanas. The unique installation of handlooms used for the next process is set up with serenity. Handlooms are looms made of forest wood. They are many worked upon by the artisans to present the world with Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the whole process of translating Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric is called Weaving. Weaving is mainly done by the male artisans of the Valley. It is precisely done in the space of karkhanas with an enthusiastic cultural aura.

The Designing of fine Cashmere

The designing of fine Cashmere starts after the process of weaving. In some designs, there is the beginning of intricacy in weaving also. There are diverse designs in the Art of Pashmina. Like Kani Pashmina, there is the intricacy of a weave on the fine Cashmere. Similarly, Patterned and Reversible Pashmina also goes on the path of a sophisticated and distinct style of weaving. There are several other designs like Laced and Swarovski Crystals Pashmina. These are the embellished form of Pashmina Art. In addition, the Printed Pashmina is versatile in its digital prints of surreal designs. Also, Embroidered Pashmina is a hallmark of intricacy. The marvellous designs with endless skill are up to the mark. Moreover, the Ombre Pashmina is the art of dyeing the fine Cashmere in the Valley of Kashmir.

Also read: THE FASCINATION OF CASHMERE IN PASHMINA ART

Ombre Pashmina - Styles and Designs

ombre cashmere wrap
Handwoven over the classic wooden handloom with utmost precision, this piece of treasure has been soaked in the sunset

Ombre Pashmina is the style of Pashmina Art. The fine Cashmere fabric is given to the local dyer called Rangur for the process of dying. The dyer meticulously dyes the Cashmere Fabric into several shades but with gradations. A wide range of shades and tones of a single colour is present in the dyer's space. In the Ombre Pashmina style, the dyers pigment the Cashmere with a gradation of varied or single colours. Thus, the Ombre style is given to the Ombre Pashmina. The dyers meticulously dye every Cashmere fabric with the Ombre style. The uniquely defined aura of the Ombre Pashmina Style blooms the elegance manifolds. Also, the colours whirl upon with their diverse wings on the outstanding Cashmere fabric. Therefore, presenting the glorious luxury in the accessories of Pashmina Art.

The Unique Style of Collection

We, at pashmina.com, cater to the world with our luxurious and true collection of Pashmina Art. Thus, the unique art of Pashmina is the crafting of fine Cashmere from the Changra goats. We confer to the mountains of Changthanghi for the procurement of fine Cashmere. Thereby, the valley of Kashmir bestows upon us the marvellous collection. Having one of the masterpieces of Pashmina Art makes you speculate the horizons of authenticity and purity.

Also read: THE SUPREME KANI WEAVE IN PASHMINA ART

Cashmere is a type of animal hair that is derived from the Capra Hircus goat species. The goat is found around the Himalayan range and grows Cashmere as an undercoat to survive in one of the harshest conditions in the world. The wool is acquired and processed into the fabric. It can be processed to produce the world-famous Cashmere scarves, which caused a great furor in 18th century Europe. Cashmere scarves were an obsession of royalty, queens, noblewomen, and the affluent women of Europe, so much so that they owned a few hundred pieces of the same. Even now paintings of European queens and Empresses can be seen wearing Cashmere scarves or wraps. 

Unfortunately, in the early 1990’s, some traders started the sales of fake and mixed Cashmere scarves. These scarves were either made from sheep wool which was treated with softeners to make it Cashmere-like. Or else, Cashmere was mixed with nylon and silk, and passed through machines (Power Loom). This gave birth to false Cashmere, which were sold as Pure scarves. A mass confusion occurred in buyers, as now, there were differences in the grades of Cashmere. There were best grades of Cashmere, made from pure Cashmere and then there were other grades, based on the percentage of Cashmere used in them. Although there were sellers of pure Pashmina, customers lost trust in every seller.

The Luxury of a Cashmere scarf

Cashmere is one of the most luxurious fibres in the world. One single thread of Cashmere has a minute diameter of just 12 to 16 microns. Hence its popularity owes to its finesse. Besides this, Cashmere goats produce meagre amounts of hair with one goat giving off just 150 grams. As such, 3 to 4 goats have to be combed to get enough wool for a Cashmere scarf. 

Owing to such luxury and popularity of Cashmere scarves, many traders sell cheap fakes to gain the customer base of Cashmere. They smoothen sheep wool scarves artificially and sell them as pure Cashmere scarves. As such, many individuals fall prey to these dirty tricks. For this reason, we have assembled a number of tests that one can carry on a scarf if they suspect it to be made of something other than pure Cashmere. 

Luckily, some patrons of this luxury fibre have given a number of Cashmere tests, which can tell the purity of a Cashmere scarf, and differentiate it from the others. This has saved several admirers of the luxury animal hair from buying fake scarves and wraps. Thankfully, we owe a lot to these Cashmere test methods which helped us identify the original and pure Cashmere scarves. Or else, it was so easy to fall prey to the tactics of traders who sold fake Cashmere scarves like real ones

The Luxury of being Handmade

Cashmere scarves are handcrafted. This adds more to its opulence and magnificence. The raw Cashmere wool is acquired manually, by middlemen, who then hand this over to the craftsmen. Craftsmen clean the wool, and then spin it to reconstruct it to fine yarn. The fine yarn goes through a specialist procedure of getting converted to fabric, and this fabric is the Cashmere scarves or the legendary Pashmina shawls of Kashmir. This manual process from start to end makes Cashmere scarves timeless, grand the simply a product of an unparalleled art form

Cashmere is handmade from start to end. For this reason it is highly patronised by those who have a classic taste in art and craft. Also, being handmade is the real difference when it comes to identifying real Cashmere from fake ones. The most basic difference between most of the fake Cashmere pieces and real Cashmere scarves is the manual processes. Original Cashmere is handmade, while most fakes are made in machines (powerlooms as we now call them). Cashmere fibre is mixed with the strengthening nylons and silks and passed from machines to create shawls which are hybrid.

Cashmere Test Methods to check if a scarf is Cashmere

While once the process of getting a Cashmere scarf checked for purity was just reserved for professionals, now one can test these personally. Some of these tests are so easy that one can conduct them at home. 

Several tests by which a scarf can be tested for purity

The Label Cashmere Test

You are the luckiest customer of a Cashmere scarf if your newly shopped piece carries a GI label. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a stamp that testifies the purity of a Cashmere scarf. If your scarf has it, it means that the scarf is made from Ladakhi Cashmere, and processed manually by Kashmiri artisans. A GI Cashmere scarf is 100% pure and exceptionally soft. It is made from Pure Cashmere, and if you invest in this, you have hit the jackpot.

To pass the GI qualifying examination, the Cashmere has the following characteristics:

The Burn Test

One of the unusual tests carried upon a scarf to check if it is Cashmere is the burn test. This is the most common of all tests conducted on Cashmere. In this test, simply cut a fringe of your scarf and burn it. If it gives off a pungent, natural fibre smell, there are high chances that it is Cashmere. This is because Cashmere is a natural fibre, and will give away a smell exactly like that of burnt hair. Also, the residue of this burnt piece will be matte and powdery. 

One has to be very careful while performing this test. Even Though the burn is pretty small, precautions need to be taken. Keeping flammable things away, keeping children away and after performing the test, discarding the things used are the basic precautions to take.

The Bobbling/Pilling Cashmere Test

Are you unhappy about your precious scarf falling prey to the tiny balls on its surface? These are called bobbles and these do make your scarf look withered and old. But do you know what the good news is? Your bobbled scarf is actually pure Cashmere!

Cashmere is a natural fibre, and hence will necessarily bobble with time. If it were a polyester, nylon, or silk mix, it would never bobble. Hence, only a pure piece will form bobbles on the surface. And luckily there are a number of ways to remove them. Shaving the fabric with a clean razor, lint removal machines, manual picking (if there are less bobbles) and more are some simple techniques to remove the wooly mesh that Cashmere gathers over its surface.

The Weave Test

uneven diamond weave
Irregular diamond weave pattern

The most beautiful thing about a Cashmere scarf is that it is handmade. It is the hard work and meticulous efforts of an artisan that produce these beauties, that is cherished by all. Manual work is never perfect like a machine and carries some irregularities. This is the same for pure Cashmere scarves, whose weave is always irregular when noticed against a direct light source. If you own a scarf and believe it to be fake, hold it against the sun and check the weave. If it is irregular, there are high chances of it being Cashmere. 

The Touch Test

The touch of Cashmere is completely luxurious. Even though this test has lost its significance owing to the introduction of machine softeners, there still are patrons and experienced ones who recognized Cashmere from its touch. If you have a Cashmere seller or artisans around you, you can get your Cashmere tested by him. 

It is believed that in ancient Kashmir there were artisans who could recognize Cashmere by its taste, simply by placing a fibre on the tip of their tongue!

The touch your Cashmere test should be the least chosen method for checking the purity of a Cashmere scarf. Owing to the sales of fabric softeners, even the roughest surfaces can be smoothened in an instant. Sheep wool scarves were amongst the first ones which were treated with fabric softeners and claimed to be pure Cashmere scarves. Hence the touch test can be done only by the makers of a Cashmere scarf. It is not possible for a common man to identify Cashmere with a simple touch.

The Microscope Test

The authentic of them all is the microscope test. Simply take your scarf to a lab, and get it tested for the micron count. If the micron count is 12 to 16, it is 100% Cashmere. If the fibre count happens to be more than 16 it might be low-quality Cashmere. But if the micron count is more than 20, there are high chances for it to be made from sheep wool. The scarf will definitely be warm, and more durable than a Cashmere scarf, but never will it be the luxurious and graceful Cashmere that the art admirers around the world are devoted to. 

The microscope test should actually be the first test to go for, especially if one finds a lab nearby. This is because it is the most authentic test and gives the most true results. Specialists in labs check the fibre, its basic composition and diameter, and give the most authentic results about the purity of Cashmere fibre.

The Price Test

jamawar pashmina shawl
A Pure Kashmiri Pashmina shawl, in vivid green hand-embroidered in Sozni Kari

A Cashmere scarf is handmade from start to end. From manually procuring it from the goat to processing, spinning, weaving, embroidering, dyeing, and anything related to completing it, a Cashmere scarf is handmade. For this reason, these are expensive. A scarf might even cost you thousands of dollars if it is profusely embroidered or patterned in an expensive fashion. Hence, if your scarf is too cheap, know that it is fake, or made from sheep wool. Cashmere scarves cannot cost you around $30. Even if they do, they might be made from the lowest quality Cashmere. Pure Cashmere scarves, if solid, with no embellishment, will cost you at least $80 or more. Hence, beware of sellers selling you cheap ones and claiming them to be Cashmere. 

Now you know how to test if a scarf is Cashmere or not. Be smart when you shop for Cashmere, as it is a lifetime investment. Ask the seller for a certificate of authentication when you shop for Cashmere scarves. If he is not able to produce the same, do not buy it. Look for authentic sellers, and always invest in a pure scarf, made from the finest threads of luxury Cashmere.

Also read: Why are Cashmere Scarves expensive?

Buying a New Cashmere Scarf

Now you know how to test if a scarf is Cashmere or not. But what about buying a new Cashmere scarf? Now that you know all Cashmere selling in the markets is not pure, how do you go about shopping for a new one? Here are some useful tips to follow when shopping for a brand-new Cashmere scarf:

  1. Ask the seller of your Cashmere for a certificate of authenticity. If he is able to produce the same, he is an authentic seller selling Pure Cashmere, If not, he might be selling machine-made Cashmere. 
  2. Always check with the other customers of the seller whether you're shopping online or in a retail store. Check the internet about what the customers have to say about the products and then go proceed with the purchase. 
  3. A GI Cashmere scarf is without a doubt authentic. Hence, if you are looking for a simple, plain Cashmere and designs don’t matter much to you, pick a GI Cashmere scarf. There is no question of duplicity when it comes to GI scarves.

Cashmere scarves are a one-time investment. Hence their purchase has to be careful. A pure Cashmere scarf will be your companion for over 20 or 25 years. But a fake piece will wither in a few years only, which defeats the purpose of investing in Cashmere. 

The Glorious Kashmiri Tradition

The beauty of ancient Kashmir is known to all. Apart from its scenic beauty, it was its people and culture that made it even more beautiful. One of these beautiful traditions was that mothers used to give their newlywed daughters their own Cashmere shawls which would be over 20 years old as a good omen. The daughters would carry it to their new homes as a symbol of auspiciousness and good fortune. To the surprise of many, these shawls would look gracefully antique and carry a heritage look that would surprise the onlookers.