Winter is already here. And it's time to cuddle up in everything warm and cozy. But can we really be that free to stay in bed all day? No, we can't. Hence, we came up with a better alternative that could keep one warm throughout the day without having to wear piles of sweaters. And that is a Pashmina Scarf.

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting fine Cashmere wool into luxury scarves, shawls, and wraps. The finest Cashmere wool is in Ladakh where a rare species of goats grow it as an undercoat. At Pashmina.com, we curate our products from the finest Himalayan Cashmere only as it is extremely warm, soft, and delicate. The wraps thus produce the same qualities. A Pashmina shawl or wrap is so warm that you would hardly need those huge jackets and coats to layer up if you own a Pashmina.

Cashmere to Pashmina - A Luxurious Journey

Not just dresses, Pashmina scarves look absolutely stunning with any outfit. The reason for this unmatched graceful mien is the way artisans handcraft them from an exceptionally fine and luxury fibre. 

Cashmere is a fine goat down fibre that grows over the body of an exotic goat species, found in the Himalayas. Herders acquire hair from the goats in the summer season, when the animal feels hot and uncomfortable in the same. They gently comb it off from their bodies and taken for a thorough cleaning. Cleaning takes a few days as the fibre contains a large number of impurities. Post cleaning, artisans spin the fibre into 12 micron thin threads by women, who do so with the help of a wooden spinning wheel. This takes time, patience and a lot of skill, which women have imbibed since long. After spinning the goat hair, it is handwoven over a traditional weaving hand loom that transforms it into luxury scarves which are unparalleled in their looks, feel and experience. 

Pairing Pashmina scarves with outfits

Pashmina scarves are timeless accessories. The more you experiment these with different fashion genres, the more you feel that Pashmina scarves are super versatile accessories. Pashmina scarves look beautiful with dresses (long and short), pairs of jeans and shirts, casual clothing sets, ethnic apparel, as well as casual outfits. 

Pashmina scarves look the best with formal dresses. Plain formal dresses with embroidered or printed Pashmina scarves, or a patterned formal dress with solid Pashmina scarf, are graceful combinations to carry. Pashmina scarves are the best accessories to aggrandize or tone down a certain look. If you feel you look bland for an occasion, go for a colourful embroidered Pashmina scarf. This will add a dash of exaggeration in your looks, perfect for the event. On the other hand, if you feel that you have overdressed for an event, you can calm the look down with a pastel shaded, soft toned Pashmina scarf. Let us learn about the styles one can carry with formal dresses. 

Formal Dress with Scarf

Pashmina wraps are too versatile. But, how to wear a formal dress with scarf (Pashmina)? There are a hundred ways to use them. How to use Pashmina is up to the wearer. You can use it as a shawl, as a wrap, wear it like a scarf, or even make a DIY shrug out of its downy base.

Here are a number of ways in which you can wear a formal dress with scarf

Also read: What are Pashmina shawls made of?

Styling your Pashmina scarf like a shrug

One can wear Pashmina scarves as shrugs. This definitely shows how versatile Pashmina scarves are, enough to be paired with dresses, while transforming them into shrugs.

Something to take care of while using this style of wearing a scarf is the scarf to be chosen. Solid scarves, plains, prints and ombre dyed are the ones to choose. Heavy embroidery and Kani jamawar scarves will never look good when worn as shrugs. These are traditional, royal and overstated pieces which needs a traditional styling and not a modish one

• If your outfit is too bland or seems boring to you, wear a bright coloured Pashmina scarf to enliven your looks instantly
• To wear a Pashmina scarf as a shrug, just place the scarf over your shoulders.
• Drag the two ends of the scarf towards the front and tie a knot at the centre. 
• You can even tie a fancy scrunchy instead of a knot
• Adjust the knot in a comfortable position and you are good to go.

Wrapping Pashmina scarf around the Shoulders

This technique is perhaps the most used one. Traditionally too, Pashmina scarves have always been worn over the shoulders to keep one warm. But now, it is a style statement to wear a pashmina scarf in this way.

One who wants to wear Pashmina around their shoulders has to be careful about the colours to choose. Pick a colour which goes well with your dress. Bright colours can uplift a basic look, and pastels can tone down overexaggerated looks

• To tie your wrap in a simple shoulder accessory, simply throw it over your shoulders with the ends towards the front
• Take one end towards the opposite shoulder and tie a stylish knot
• You can even pin a large size brooch near the knot to glam up this simple style

Tying Pashmina in a Wrap Style

Wraps and scarves are two different sizes when it comes to Pashmina. But did you know that you can style your scarf like a wrap irrespective of the size, simply by changing its wearing style. Owing to the softness and fineness of a Pashmina scarf, these beauties are easy to fold not just once, but twice, thrice and more. This specialty of Pashmina scarves makes them foldable, and hence adjusting. With a folded scarf, one can create many looks which are not possible with thicker scarves which when folded look like lumps of wool accumulated over the body

• Fold your Pashmina scarf in the middle so that it acquires a square shape
• Fold it again diagonally to attain a triangle shape
• Take the two pointed ends towards your shoulder and tie a tight knot.
• Your plain dress will look like that of a princess. 

Pinning with a Brooch

At times, one wants to tie the Pashmina scarf in such a way that it does not come off and remain fixed with the body. In these times, Brooches are the simplest way to do so. Buying a stylish brooch, and fixing your Pashmina scarf with it takes practically no effort and time. Usually those scarves are worn with a brooch which aren't heavier in embellishments. As such, solids, printed scarves, ombre scarves and others in this pattern are the ones used with brooches. Scarves with their own embellishments (Kani and embroidery), do not need much extravagant brooches, and a simple tie can do that job. Here is how to pin a Pashmina scarf in a stylish way.

• For this style, you will need a large size and bling brooch. 
• Fold the scarf in half over your arm, and pin the two sides of it over the opposite shoulder.
• Tie the brooch just below the shoulder so that it doesn't stand on the shoulder.
• Do not tie it too close to the neck, or you will have a problem lifting your arm freely

Wrapping your scarf diagonally

If one wants to wrap their Pashmina scarf in a unique fashion, they can wear it diagonally. This style covers one’s entire body, and one wants to look stylish as well as keep warm, this is one of the best styles to follow.

• This style would need a large brooch too
• Wrap your pashmina scarf across your body such that one side it is under the arm and on the other side it is over the shoulder
• Pin the open ends together at one hip with a gorgeous decorative brooch.

Twisting your Pashmina scarf at the shoulders

A more contemporary way to style your Pashmina scarf is twisting it at the shoulders. At times, when you are tired of trying all styles, a unique and exclusive style is all you need. Thanks to all the ways stylists have come up with, we are never out of options.

• Circle the scarf around your neck, such that the two ends are at the front, and the neck is covered with one twist
• Tuck each of these free ends through the neck, and pull them sideways to the shoulders.
• The ends should cover the shoulders too. 

Wear your Pashmina scarf like a shawl

The most common and used style is to wear a Pashmina scarf like a Pashmina shawl. Even though shawls and scarves are different in sizes, they can be worn like one another. Mostly the much embellished scarves are worn in this way to show all the embellishments to the onlookers. Hand embroidered Pashmina scarves, Kani scarves or a swarovski scarf are the perfect contenders for this style.

• This style of Pashmina is generally draped over the shoulders to cover the upper portion of your body with its pleasant warmth. 
• Or else you can let the shawl dangle on one shoulder by placing the center of it on the shoulder and suspending the rest down
• Usually embroidered or Kani scarves are worn like this so that the entire base is visible. 

More Tips for this Style

Apart from wearing a Pashmina scarf over your body, you can even tie it on your bag for formal events. Imagine how classy a plain black bag would look if you tie a bright yellow pashmina scarf over it in a large bow. 

Again depending on the colour of your outfit, you can choose a Pashmina scarf to tone down or brighten up a look. If you feel you are overdressed for an event, cover yourself with a nude shades Pashmina scarf, and you are good to go. Similarly, if you feel you look too basic, add a colourful printed or patterned Pashmina scarf to your dress, and glam up your entire look.

Pashmina comes in different sizes. You can have a scarf, a shawl of a larger size, or a headscarf that comes in smaller sizes to complete your different looks. Now we know how to wear a pashmina scarf with a formal dress or any dress on any occasion.

How versatile is this beautiful piece of fine wool!

Also read: 5 amazing facts of Cashmere Scarves

Buying Pure Pashmina Scarf

A Pashmina scarf will be an ideal accessory only if purchased in its purest form. There are a thousand copies of Pashmina which sell in the markets locally and abroad. But the best Pashmina scarf is the one that is crafted from the purest Cashmere. If Cashmere is not pure, or if it's mixed with sheep wool/nylon or any other fabric, it won't look and feel as luxurious as it actually is. 

Shopping for a pure Pashmina is a challenge. Thanks to a few honest sellers who have still managed to save the integrity of this luxury art form. 

Pashmina.com is one such seller which sells Pashmina scarves handcrafted from the purest of Cashmere wool. Cashmere for these scarves comes from Ladakhi goats, which are considered as producers of the finest quality Cashmere amongst all. 

Pashmina.com and Pashmina scarves

A formal dress with scarf shopped from Pashmina.com will be the best purchase ever. Pashmina.com are the sellers of pure Cashmere that has been ethically procured from Ladakh. The makers of these Cashmere scarves are Kashmiri artisans who have over 20 years of experience in their craft forms. Spinners and weavers from around the valley, even the remotest villages, come together to make one Pashmina scarf, which at times takes a few years to complete. 

The Pashmina shawls and Pashmina scarves from Pashmina.com are all handwoven. No power looms are used to craft these elegant pieces, and hence they look absolutely incredible. 

Wearing a shawl with a dress is a powerful combination to look the best version of yourself. And when the shawl has been handcrafted by the best artisans from Kashmir, it makes one look more graceful and elegant. 

The anecdote of Pashmina wraps unfolds in the hinterland of Ladakh - the region of breathtaking landscapes and beautiful vistas. From lush green valleys to rocky mountains, snow-clothed peaks to robust glaciers, from fresh blue lakes to the famous rainbow mountains, Ladakh is a scenic wonderland that intrigues all your senses. It is only when you visit this place, you realize why nature chose Pashmina to reveal its essence in this heavenly land. And perhaps there couldn't be any other place on the earth so fresh and natural, to encompass the delicacy of the fabric as impeccably as Ladakh did. 

Ladakh is the highest plateau of India. The mighty Himalayan mountains are over 6000 metres above sea level. And that is where the exotic Changthangi goat or Capra Hircus inhabits. This goat grows the finest cashmere. It is the Changthang region of Ladakh where herders rear these goats for their fine wool, which grows on their undercoat. People believe that if this goat were to be reared outside the parts of Ladakh, it won't produce wool with the same fineness. A minute change in temperature and altitude would affect the diameter and hence the quality of a Pashmina wrap. It is worthy to mention here that it takes three such exotic goats to weave one single Pashmina wrap. 

What's not to love about the cherished fabric of Pashmina. After all, there is this one fabric that has stood the test of time, and that too since 300 BC. But how did we get this luxury fabric in the first place? Who discovered Pashmina? Who went all the way up to 6000 metres and discovered the Changthangi goat? Where did it all begin? Let's find out.

History of Pashmina Wraps

Pashmina comes from the root word “Pashm” which literally translates to “soft gold”. And perhaps this was the major attribute of Pashmina which made it world-famous. Within no time, Pashmina was the most prized possession of nobles, royals, and the richest people across the globe. The Pashmina shawl has an illustrious and glorious past. And since then, never has the Pashmina wrap lost a tad in its exquisiteness and grace.

The weaving of fine Pashmina shawls in Kashmir gets mention in various ancient texts. In fact, it can be traced back to the second century BC. Shawls finely woven in Kashmir find mention even in ‘The Book of Han’ which was composed in around 111 CE. It gives a quick gist of the lifestyle of the then Kashmiri people, and their adeptness to craft shawls. The shawls crafted in Kashmir found special places in the royal courts of Caesar and Nero. 

Pashmina Wraps and Kashmir

While some parts of the world were already in love with the meticulous art of making Pashmina wrap, it wasn't until the 15th century that the word “Pashmina” came up. From 1418 - 1470, Zain ul Abideen, who people called Budshah (great Ruler), ruled Kashmir. It was him, who people believe to have founded the Pashmina wool making in Kashmir.

In addition to this, legend has it that a Sufi Saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani came to Kashmir from Persia along with 700 craftsmen. He stopped at Ladakh, where he discovered the Changthangi goat. He used their soft wool to craft socks for King Zain ul Abideen. The king, impressed by the quality of the fabric, decided to set up processing units for the same.

Around the late 15th century, Kashmir was under Mughal rule (the 1580s to 1750s). The then Emperor Akbar also admired Pashmina art and took a keen interest to improvise its manufacturing units, as he took over. It was at this time when artisans introduced embroideries. Even now one can see the influence of Mughal culture over embroidered motifs. Designs like Shah Pasand (Emperor’s choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Muhammed Shah’s flower), both are named after the Mughal emperors. 

And There's More

In his autobiography Tuzk e Jahangiri, emperor Jahangir defines Pashmina wrap as his favourite piece of clothing. The then cloth dealers, realizing its worth, brought large quantities of raw wool from Ladakh to Kashmir. Weaving Pashmina reached its zenith and superior quality at that time. Some say that one can twist 1.5 square yards of Pashmina and pass it through a finger-ring.

The Pashmina wrap saw a huge boom during the Mughal patronage. The emperors of Iran and the Mughals used to exchange Pashmina wraps as gifts. Rulers used Pashmina to establish hierarchical relationships between the giver and the taker as its acceptance would mean submission. They called these shawls ‘khilat’ meaning ‘robes of honour’ which were embroidered in gold threads. 

Members of the Mughal royal court used large quantities of the Pashmina shawl between the 16th and mid 19th centuries. 

Pashmina Wraps and Europe

A new fashion fabric entered the European markets in the second half of the 18th century. It was exceptionally soft, unusually warm, feathery light, and smooth as silk. In addition to all these qualities, this fabric features such intricate patterns that Europeans had never seen or produced before. This product was the Kashmiri shawl - which artisans crafted from fine Cashmere. And there was something that the Europeans admired as much as the shawl itself - the Paisley motif embroidered over it. This blend of an aesthetically pleasing fabric with a luxurious appeal and an intricately handmade motif got Europeans swooning. These properties made the Kashmiri shawl a must for art patrons and affluent Europeans. In fact patronage by Empress Josephine of France and after her Queen Victoria further strengthened the fame of the Kashmiri shawl

By the end of the 19th century, Kashmir had already started trading shawls with the west. Some Europeans even though copied Kashmiri Pashmina Wraps, and did pretty well in their markets. Such was the passion that this shawl aroused in their hearts. In the next 500 years, one could see Kashmiri shawls in every market of Europe with heavy sales. Its production and style soon changed in order to adapt to local needs and likes.

Kashmiri Shawl: What and How?

Kashmiri shawl is an accessory that people wear in winters around the shoulders and neck to keep warm. The temperatures dip too low here in the valley because of which people keep a stock of warm apparel and accessories before winter even arrives. Pure wool, Cashmere, and Shahtoosh or ‘Tus’ (which is banned now) all contribute in the making of Kashmiri Shawls. Cashmere is the raw wool of a goat from the Changthang area. These are the Changthangi goats or Cashmere goats. Tus on the other hand was the most exclusive kind of wool which came from the Chiru goat (called stos in Ladakhi). Its down hair is the finest of all fibres the world has ever witnessed. The diameter of one Shahtoosh fibre is between 7-10 microns only. However, there was a ban on Shahtoosh due to hunters unethically hunting the Chiru (Tibetan Antelope).

Kashmir saw a monopoly in supplying these Pashmina wraps or Shahtoosh wraps all over the world. These goats and the conditions where herders bought them up, were not available anywhere else in the world. Hence Kashmir was the only supplier of Cashmere and Shahtoosh with demand always exceeds the supply. These materials have always been difficult to synthesize or even substitute. It was this luxurious rendezvous of a distinctive weaving method and the exceptionally fine wool which were responsible to produce an opulent fabric.

Also read: Why is Shahtoosh banned?

Copying of Pashmina

As the popularity of the Kashmiri shawl rose to great heights in the 1800s in Europe, it led to 'copying' and 'faking' the original one. Even though the copies found many enthusiastic buyers, it could never actually be a competition for pure shawls 

This was the period when buyers called Pashmina "Cashmere". The word Cashmere is the 18th-century spelling of ‘Kashmir’ named after the hometown of Pashmina. European and American firms used the word Cashmere to distinguish between Pashmina and locally manufactured shawls and fabrics. Some manufacturers produced imitations of Kashmiri shawls and used the word Cashmere to sell their own products. 

Nevertheless, Cashmere is the raw wool that artisans handcraft to produce luxury Pashmina shawls and scarves.

The Paisley Motif (Buta)

Buta, is also famous as Paisley in Europe. It is a teardrop shape motif that has archaic origins. Paisley became one of the most well-known patterns in the history of textiles. Paisley over Pashmina wraps existed in the Mughal period. But in this period, people called this motif 'Buta'. It is later when the Europeans imitated and modernized it, and called it Paisley. Paisley is a town in West Scotland that became the most well-known imitator of the Buta motif, hence the name.

The Buta motif became a topic of discussion among historians regarding its origin. Some say it resembles the Cypress trees from Pre Islamic Iran while local Kashmiris called it Badum (Almond) due to some resemblance. Nevertheless, Europeans added more floral elements and other decorative arts around it and kind of upgraded it to match their local needs. They reintroduced the shawl with ‘their kind of Buta motif’ and called it Paisley which had major differences from the actual Buta. It was more stylized and less natural as it had a large influence on not only European but Iranian and Indian art.

It is said that till the 1800s, the Kashmiri shawl featured patterns just over the borders of a shawl. But with interferences and upgrades from Europe, the shawl now featured embroidery patterns all over the base. Europeans took cues from Iranian carpets and wanted the shawls to have a similar appearance. Hence, European dominance of the shawl in the west and in Kashmir itself started showing in the mid-1800s and led to the development of the Paisley pattern, dissolving forever the natural Buta. 

Also read: Kashmiri shawl and the Paisley

Kashmiri Shawls in Europe

It is a very well-known fact that the Kashmiri shawl came to Europe when Napoleon gave his wife Josephine a fine piece of the same. Supposedly, Napoleon had gone for an invasion and on his way back, he discovered the fine Pashmina wraps somewhere. He picked one and could not resist buying it for Empress Josephine. Being a figure of sophistication and a wearer of the finest apparel, Josephine purchased hundreds of the same and set these types of shawls into a timeless fashion. 

While this is the most common view of how Kashmiri shawls came to Europe, another view is that shawls came to Europe through the British in the later 1700s, when they ruled in the Indian subcontinent, most likely the East India Company. Officials of the British would send Pashmina Wraps as gifts to rulers of the Mughal empire and vice-versa. When returning to their own countries, these officials would take Kashmiri shawls as gifts to their wives and family members. With more and more popularity, yet a high price, European nations attempted replicas of the same shawls in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Then only high officials and aristocratic women afforded original Kashmiri shawls.

Europeans and the manufacturing of Pashmina Wraps

The main issue that Europeans would face to make original Pashmina wraps was a lack of raw material. Their desperation to acquire Cashmere goats was clearly evident in the First Sikh War of the 1840s when as a part of the Treaty of Amritsar, Gulab Singh was to offer twelve Cashmere goats annually.

Prior to this, Britishers had once tried to secure a population of Cashmere goats for England and took two batches - one of the male goats and another of females - in two different ships. The females never made it to England and the males couldn't find a suitable environment to grow the fine Pashm. Hence Kashmiri retained the monopoly of producing fine Cashmere made Pashmina wraps. 

Europeans could produce the same Kashmiri shawls. A Kashmiri shawl needs the patience of the weaver. It is time-consuming, meticulous, and in fact, a painstaking process to make a Kashmiri shawl. In Kashmir, a weaver took years together to complete one shawl, which the Europeans found hard to follow. Kashmiri weavers used a simple loom that just held the warp stiff and the weaver inserted wefts with complete freedom. But European looms were not of this typical design, and therefore became a major hindrance to produce pure Kashmiri shawls.

Pashmina Wrap loses originality

The popularity of Cashmere in Europe proved slightly detrimental to the originality of the shawl. Since demand was much more than the supply, Kashmiri artisans innovated new techniques and designs with the great involvement of Europeans. British administrators and French designers took charge of the shawl making in Kashmir. They directed the local efforts towards fulfilling the demands of foreign customers. There began variations in the original Kani shawl. Kani making was known as Kanikar. It was high in price and took a lot of time to complete. But now Kashmiris innovated the Tilikar and Amlikar which produced more outfits and less value. These two innovations still were popular in Europe because of the same ‘apparent’ look and affordable prices. 

The best attempt of copying the Kashmiri shawl came from the Paisley town of Scotland. Paisley became the very first weaving centre to use the Jacquard loom which employed around 5000 people. The loom did try producing ‘paisley’ fabric which obviously wasn't possible. It resulted in a fabric evidently inferior and of poor quality. 

The Fall of Kashmiri Shawl

From around the 1850s, several factors contributed to the decline in the popularity of the Kashmiri shawl and its European copies

• Firstly there were some type of apparel which could be worn in combination with Kashmiri shawls. But as trends changed, these apparel got outdated dissolving the need of a Kashmiri shawl. 
• The Franco-Prussian war was a major one in Europe which led to the disruption of trade between India and Europe. This even led to a detrimental loss in Kashmir’s economy which had by then grown independent. Kashmir experienced a famine in 1870 as the major population were shawl makers only. 
• A huge demand and practically no supply led Europeans to manufacture their own version of machine made Pashmina wraps to meet extensive demands. Some weavers fled to other countries whilst pushing Kashmir into the ‘dark age’. People believe that Kashmir never did recover from this loss.
• In the early 1900s, Paisley was survived by other apparel over which it began surfacing. Etro in Milan became one of the most prominent fashion houses to reintroduce Paisley to runways. Etro had a collection of 19th century shawls - Kashmiri as well as European - and thus, had a clear idea of what Paisley meant. Hence it included the motif in its fashion lines and became closely associated with the original motif.

Pashmina Wraps in Iran, West Asia and Russia

Kashmiri shawls have been famed since time immemorial, owing to their quality as well as design sensibilities. The picturesque vales of this region have produced some of the most stunning masterpieces in the form of richly embroidered shawls. These are famous throughout the world. It may come as a surprise though that there is not much documentation of the Kashmiri shawl in the early 1700s. Especially around foreign trade. Abul Fazal in his Ain-i-Akbari writes,

“Many kinds of Pashmina are beautifully produced, especially the shawl that is exported as a rare and luxury trade item to many countries.”

He added,

“Under the sway of his Imperial Majesty … is the secure and happy abode of many nationalities, including natives of Iran and Turkestan as well as Kashmir.”

If we analyze the two statements, it comes across that some if not everyone from Iran and Turkestan was in Kashmir in the 1580s. The primary reason was to commission and buy Kashmiri shawls. Besides, later in the 1630s, Portuguese missionary and traveller, Manrique, wrote,

“Great trade is done in Cassimir and Laor with the kingdoms of Kandahar, Corazane and Iran,”

and 30 years later, Bernier asserts the same thing that the Kashmiri shawl production

“particularly promotes the trade of the country and fills it with wealth.”

These texts do suggest that in the 18^th century, the Kashmiris were involved in mercantile activity, just like Armenians and Jews. In the 1720s, there were Kashmiri colonies in Tibet and also in Kathmandu in Nepal. It all drives home the point that Kashmiri shawls are a part and parcel of their enterprising nature.

Journey through Iran

Previously, caravans spearheaded by horses and camels made their way through the dusty terrains to reach Bokhara, Meshed, Isfahan, Baghdad, and Allepo, finally entering Istanbul. At this stage, the quantities were limited and the trade sporadic. It was sometime in the mid-1700s when there are pieces of evidence to show. A French adventurer Count de Modave spent several years between 1757 and 1777. He seems to have been in India at that time, but could not visit Kashmir. However, he really admired the beauty of the Kashmir shawls sold at Delhi’s Chandni Chowk. The finest shawl was available somewhere between Rs 150 and Rs 200. It was unmatched in luxury and finesse. He added that artisans crafted the most expensive Kashmiri shawls for Turkey and Arabia.

The prices mentioned by Modave are later validated by George Foster, who visited Kashmir from 1782-83. He said,

“Ordinary shawls in Kashmir came for Rs 8, while the better ones for Rs 40 and the finest ones a little over Rs 100.”

More Trade of Kashmiri Shawls

With the rising demand for Kashmir shawls in Europe, the trend continued. According to a Kashmiri merchant in Bokhara in 1820-21, total production was of 100,000 pieces. Out of these 80,000 were exported, 60,000 to India. The remaining were exported by way of Kabul and of these 5,000 might have remained in Afghanistan, 12,000 went to Iran, and 2,000 to Russia. The total value of shawls sold in Kashmir, according to Moorcroft, was nearly Rs 35 lakh.

In the first quarter of the 1800s, Iranian and Central Asian merchants dominated trade. It was hard from Kashmir, as Moorcroft puts it. In 1831, a French botanist and geologist, Jacquemont, who was famous for his travels, asserted,

“Most of the shawls manufactured in Kashmir are purchased by a very small number of rich and respectable Iranian merchants.”

The visiting merchants spent months in Kashmir since they had to wait for long periods to get their commissioned goods. According to an observer in the 1800s, the return journey from Kashmir to Iran was arduous. There was much time spent on negotiating and commissioning their purchase. As such it took as long as three years for these shawl dealers to get a return on investment. The merchants commissioned

“Shawl goods differing as to quality and pattern in conformity to the taste of the markets for which they are intended in a degree probably not suspected by the shawl manufacturers in Europe.”

Kashmiri Shawls : A Choice of Nobles

Just like the Banarasi brocades and fine muslin that were exported, Kashmir Pashmina shawl goods were purchased only by the elites. Artisans also designed the square rumal for women. Womenfolk from Iran to Egypt folded it in a diagonal manner round their waist or shoulders or sometimes, draped it as a veil over their heads. Artisans also made Jamawar into women’s clothes in winter.

In Asia, unlike Europe, men as much as women wore the shawl. In India, specifically, admirers wore it as a shoulder mantle. Yet in other countries, the nobility wore it as a turban. Apart from its functional use as apparel, rulers gifted shawls as religious offerings as well as tomb covers. When the shrine at Karbala was plundered, the losses included 4,000 pieces of Kashmir shawl. The shawls were also a part of court ceremonies, especially on Navroz, the Iranian New Year.

Popularity in Iran

Pashmina wraps were also in high demand in Iran from the 16th to early 20th centuries. The emperors of the Safavid, Qajar, and Zand dynasties often wore fabrics made from Kashmiri shawls. Iranian emperors used Kashmiri shawls as gifts to present them as robes of honour throughout their reign. However, Iranians never used the shawls as drapes but had them tailored as well fit dresses and garments. 

At one time in history, Kashmir had to compete with local Iranian Kermani shawls (manufactured in Kerman). Artisans beautifully designed these in kaleidoscopic shades. When Pashmina was about to lose this battle (because of high production and colourful designs of Kerman shawls), a German physician who lived in Iran in the 10th century defended Pashmina. He said that Persian shawls are just comparable to Kashmiri shawls in terms of design and colour. But when it comes to the finesse of weave & suppleness of the fabric, Persian shawls are too inferior comparatively

In Russia, shawls were popular as early as 1795, when artist Elisabeth Viglee Le Brun decorated her house with Pashmina wraps, of which there was no shortage in St. Petersburg. Russia was considered a crucial market for shawls of the expensive variety. The transit duty in Russia was calculated on the number of shawls, not on their value.

Pashmina Wraps in India under Mughals

Mughal aristocracy has been much spoken about for their luxurious way of life. In fact, the emperors’ wives always turned up well and stunned everyone with their beauty and grace. These women used shawls to drape themselves in the highest luxury. These nobles generally resided in urban centres, which is why the chief centres of production and marketing developed in the cities. It comes as no surprise that the hotbed of shawl manufacturing was undoubtedly Srinagar.  Several thousand looms functioned during that time to craft this work of art.

During the Mughal rule, the shawl-making attained the stature of a royal production. It attained maximum growth with 40,000 looms in operation. People called these operational units karkhanas. These developed extensively during this period since they were the biggest patrons of shawl weaving.

Also read: Pashmina Embroideries | The Exquisite Craftsmanship

Patronage by the Royalty

In the royal karkhanas established by Akbar, there was a range of new designs, patterns, and colours. The Kashmir shawl attained high stature and nobles gifted it among themselves. Since the people of Kashmir have always been dependent on woollen items, it took off. But at that time, the royalty and aristocracy largely consumed it, in and outside Kashmir. The Mughal rule led to the growth of the Shawl making and also its organization.

The Mughal emperors encouraged Pashmina-making as much as they could, bringing about perfection in the weaving style. The shawl became a symbol of imperial prestige and brought about value in commercial ties, leading to commercial trade in Kashmir. After a point, it became an obsession for all the nobles to own a Kashmiri shawl. The emperors purchased these shawls in large numbers and often offered them to the subedars.

Akbar - Pashmina's biggest patron

Apart from their fondness for this delicate weave, Akbar made it mandatory for the courtiers and people of certain ranks to wear certain adornments. These were takauchiya (coat), peshwaz (a kind of open coat), and parmanaram (the Kashmir shawl). The number of women who received presents during the time of Akbar was 5,000.

When the demand for these shawls flourished and increased by the Mughal emperors, the production started to grow. After the conquest of Kashmir by Mughals, they made the shawl an imperial monopoly to cater to their own interests as well to those of the Indian and Kashmiri elite. According to Abul Fazl, besides the shawl, there were certain other activities and products that were declared imperial monopolies. In fact, an officer was appointed to take care of these karkhanas. Manucci writes, “the kings and princes keep officials ─ whose business it is to put in hand the best goods that can be fabricated in each place. With this object in view, they kept an eye continually on what was being done in that respect."

The written word

There is enough and more literature on these shawls in the Ain-i-Akbari. Abul Fazal writes, “In former times, shawls often came from Kashmir. People folded them up in four folds and wore them for a very long time. Nowadays, patrons wear them generally without folds and merely throw them over the shoulder. His Majesty has commenced wearing their double, which looks very well.”

Srinagar was the provincial capital and by default, became the natural centre of the shawl-weaving. It was considered a more beneficial occupation than agriculture. The major craft products of Kashmir were shawls and other woollen products. Fazal adds, “The woollen fabrics are made in high perfection especially shawls which are sent as valuable gifts to every clime.” The wool used for the manufacture of these shawls known as pashm was earlier produced in Turfan, Chahthan, and Tibet, and even beyond from Kashgar and Central Turkistan. In Kashmir, it was imported from Western and Central Tibet. The routes leading to these mountainous regions were traversed with much difficulty. Labourers were employed to bring the fleece from these places to the Kashmir Valley.

Words by Abul Fazl - Akbar's court historian and biographer

The Mughals also took a keen interest in improving the design sensibilities. Abul Fazl writes, “His Majesty pays much attention to various stuff – skillful masters and workmen have settled in this country to teach people an improved system of manufacture. They perfected all kinds of hair-weaving and silk-spinning.”

He added,

“His Majesty improved his department in four ways. Firstly, the hair of tus goat was used to make tus shawl. Its natural colour is black, white and red, but mainly black. Sometimes, the colour is pure white. This kind of shawl is unrivalled for its lightness, warmth, and softness. People generally wear it without altering its natural colour, his Majesty has had it dyed.

Secondly, the corded and patterned shawls  (tarhdars shawls) were made of either white, black, or mixed. The white kind was formerly dyed in three colours.

Thirdly, attention was paid to the manufacture of different varieties of shawls, such as zardozi, kalabatun, kashida, qalghai, badhnun and parmanaram.

Fourthly, an improvement was made in the width of his stuff, his Majesty had the pieces made large enough to yield the making of a full dress

Loom embroidery

It is believed that loom embroidery was introduced in the 16th century, but it already existed in Persia. The Kashmir shawl was greatly influenced by the Persian style. The innovations of Mughals resulted in the manufacture of the do-shala.

Later, Jahangir in his memoirs writes, “the shawls of Kashmir to which my father gave the name of parmanaram are very famous. Another kind is taharma, it is thicker than a shawl and soft. And in Kashmir, they weave the pattu shawl from wool, and sewing two shawls together, they smooth them into a kind of saqarlat (broadcloth), which is not bad for a rain-coat.” This reflects the flourishing state of the shawl-making during Jahangir’s time.

Pashmina shawl making peaked during Shah Jahan’s rule. With the expansion of the empire, new channels of trade opened up. He gifted shawls to the rulers of Golconda and Bijapur, they were also sent to the Ottoman Empire, Safavid Empire, and Egypt.

There was a method of shawl weaving, known as Kani shawl, which became popular during the Mughal period. The famous designs textured were pashmina Kani, jora kani, qasaba kani, romal, shah pasand and jamawar. They were so fine that they could pass through a small ring.

Current Scenario

Today large amounts of Pashmina sell all over the world. However, most of them are blends of wool and silk. Some dealers soak ordinary wool wraps in fabric softeners and claim those to be Kashmiri Pashmina wraps. Nevertheless, Pashmina remains unmatched and rare. The factory produce might be perfectly made with every single stitch in order. But it is the irregularities and fine distinctions of the original Pashmina that make it the classical heritage piece that it is.

Also read: 500 Years of Timeless Fashion - Pure Pashmina

When buying headscarf, one may wonder why Pashmina and not some other fabric? It should be noted that unlike other fabrics, Pashmina is soft and lightweight, making it comfortable to wear.

Pashmina headscarves have everything you love about Pashmina. For instance, a headscarf has an enduring appeal because they are crafted out of fine Cashmere. Also, they have the timeless charm of Pashmina and are an amalgamation of craftsmanship and style that exudes perfection. Besides Pashmina Headscarves are available in various hues to match all of your outfits.

Here are a few pieces that you can wear year-round

Purple Lace | Laced Luxury Headscarf

For those of you who are looking for a Headscarf that would elevate your outfit, a purple lace Headscarf is your savior. The handwoven cashmere luxury headscarf has delicate lace running across it, lending it a sophisticated look. This headscarf will not just complement your daily wear, but certainly, elevate its overall appeal in an instant. Apart from this, the classic purple headscarf can vivify your outfits on any occasion.

Emerald Green | Embroidered Pashmina Headscarf

Luxurious and elegant, traditional yet contemporary, the emerald green Pashmina Headscarf will undoubtedly lend you a sense of sophistication. The hand embroidery done by Kashmiri artisans makes this headscarf one-of-a-kind. Adorned with intricately beautiful embroideries & delicate floral patterns, this luxury headscarf is an absolute grace. In addition to this, it will give you an edge of sophistication.

Magenta | Swarovski Studded Pashmina Headscarf

If you are looking for an elegant Pashmina headscarf, your search ends with the magenta dance of the fireflies Swarovski Hijab. Adorned with brilliant white crystals, this headscarf is undoubtedly an example of the uncompromising craftsmanship of Kashmiri artisans. This headscarf and others are handmade by Kashmiri artisans who spend weeks, working on them. The feather-light Pashm wool makes it ideal for all weathers. It’s perfect for everyday and formal wear. The white crystals give it a flattering look and will absolutely help you create a signature look.

Black Currant | Ombre Dyed Luxury Headscarf

For everyday wear, the black currant Pashmina Headscarf is the best. It will definitely add glamour and class to your style making you look very elegant on a daily basis. The versatile colour of this luxury headscarf makes it a perfect addition to your wardrobe. It can easily go with most of your day and evening attire.

Also read: Pashmina Gifts - A Lifetime of Memories

White Pashmina | Swarovski Crystal Headscarf

Nothing has ever been as timeless as the colour white. And that's why we chose this beautiful colour to dip a fine Pashmina luxury headscarf into. Featuring a shimmery constellation of luxury Swarovski studs, hand-stitched into the base, the white pashmina headscarf with Swarovski crystals handmade beauty will upgrade your basic ensembles in a jiffy.

Red Pashmina | Solid Headscarf

What colour can elevate a barren outfit as wonderfully as the colour red? We have just handpicked a handmade red Pashmina headscarf in the colour of love; it makes your basic plains more vivid and lovely. Altogether, this luxury headscarf is an embodiment of grace; even in their solid essence they never leave a moment to make you look like a queen on her throne. Tie a headscarf like this over your head or wrap them around your neck for an undoubtedly amazing style

Bubblegum Pink Lace luxury Headscarf

From the wooden looms of Kashmir, comes an ethereal beauty to cover you up in an artistic fashion. A pretty pink Pashmina headscarf is handwoven to complement your vivid outfits instantly. Moreover, this can be worn to tone down an overdressed look. Handwoven in Kashmir, the headscarf feature a hand-stitched lace that spans all over the fibre Cashmere base. Pair this beauty up with winter and fall apparel

The White Lotus Headscarf

How ethereal does hand embroidery look! Luxury headscarf has been handcrafted in the realms of Kashmiri Pashmina. Hand embroidered in Kashmiri Sozni Kari for an exquisite effect, the white lotus pashmina headscarf is exceptionally warm. And why not so. It has been crafted from pure Cashmere threads manually acquired from Ladakh. Pair this nude shaded beauty with winter outfits and watch your looks metamorphose from good to amazing

Mango Ombre Pashmina luxury Headscarf

Intricately handwoven in Kashmir is the mango ombre Pashmina headscarf. It features colours stolen from the seven heavens. Handcrafted in an ombre pattern, a luxury headscarf like this promises a pleasant warmth to the women of today who knows how to carry the charm of traditions, even in this world of fast fashion

Why buy luxury Headscarves from Pashm?

Pashm is a luxury brand introduced by Pashmina.com which offers the most opulent styles in Pashmina. Pashmina Headscarf and other Pashmina accessories from Pashm are sought-after for their unmatched quality and softness. Made from Pashm wool, a Headscarf is the epitome of class and sophistication. Each Pashmina product that you buy from us comes with a certificate guaranteeing the quality of the product and technique.

Also read: 7 Reasons Why Women Love Cashmere

Cashmere is a luxury fibre. It is fine, lightweight, yet extraordinarily warm and cosy. This accounts for its high price, as well as a great precaution which is to be taken while washing or storing it. Luxury items made from Cashmere have to be cared about in order to extend their life. After all, they beautify you in ways that you could never have imagined. 

Cashmere is a lifetime investment. It comes from the luxury fleece of the Changthangi goat and is manually processed to land in your wardrobes. The tough path it traverses in between makes it highly luxurious, exclusive, rare, and hence pricey. Hence, great care is to be taken while dealing with it. 

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the name given to the fine and warm hair type that grows on the body of the Himalayan goat. It is super fine, lightweight, warm and luxurious. The best Cashmere grows on the body of a Ladakhi goat which is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. This is the hair that makes luxury shawls, scarves, and sweaters. It is acquired from the goat in hot summers and is later processed to prepare luxuriously warm apparel and accessories. 

Cashmere is famous and has been so since the 18th century when it became a buzzword after Empress Josephine wore it for the first time.  

Cashmere Acquisition and Processing

Acquiring Cashmere is the real challenge when it comes to the production of world-famous Cashmere scarves and wraps. The reason for this difficulty is the place where Cashmere goats are found. 

It is 14000 feet above sea level where temperatures are cold and conditions are hence harsh. We are talking about the Himalayan ranges, where cold days experience -40 degrees C as winter arrives. It is this time when the Cashmere bearing goats grow a layer of warm hair over their bodies. This hair type is super delicate, yet exceptionally warm, enough to help the goats survive the gelid winter season. It is this hair that helps goats bear the tough winter season, and it remains only till these months last. 

As soon as summer arrives, the hair becomes intolerable. The same hair that protected the goat’s body in winter, now makes it uncomfortable in summer. The herders realise this fact, as they see that the goats are rubbing their bodies against rough surfaces. Hence they professionally get the rest of the wool combed off from the goats’ bodies, leaving them free and more or less unloaded. The wool is collected in small pouches and sent for processing

Processing of Cashmere

The main reason for Cashmere being pricey, luxurious and the most sought-after accessory in the world is its process. A meticulous process of converting raw, dishevelled and unkempt wool into lavish and graceful shawls and scarves takes months or years to complete. It is this detail-oriented and heedfully carried out process that makes Cashmere the luxury that it is. Rare, unique and patient demanding yet painstaking at times, Cashmere processing is a joy to watch and wearing the same is an honour to experience. 

The processing of Cashmere starts from cleaning the raw wool. It is filled with dirt, dust, wastes and debris, and therefore needs thorough cleaning. This is done by a group of women, spending a few days doing so. Cashmere fibre is separated one by one and the task is immensely tedious. Clean Cashmere is passed on to spinners, who start another challenge - spinning lumps of clean fibre. 

Spinning the fibre

Start of the process - spinning the fibre which is helter-skelter till now. Women, from the remotest corners, come together and sit in groups, spinning the fibre for months together. The fibre is mounted over a manual spinning wheel which turns the raw Cashmere to fine fibre threads. These threads are just 12 to 16 microns in thickness, which makes them barely visible to the naked eye (when seen from distance).

Hand spinning such fine threads is simply a skill, and comes from decades of experience that these women have. 

Weaving the fibre

Weaving the fibre, too, is a difficult task, and it is the most skillful individuals who perform this yet another task in the making of Cashmere fabric. The transformation of fibre to fabric is beautiful, and the world has been amazed by the same. 

For weaving the Cashmere fibre, which is just out of the spinning process, one has to mount it on a handloom. Handlooms are traditional, and help weavers to weave fibres into shawls, scarves, or just plain fabrics. The fibre from the spinning wheel is stretched manually and then put onto the handloom. One or two individuals sit on the handloom, and in 3 to 4 days convert fibre to fabric. Handlooms take special care that the fibre isn't torn or damaged in any way. It is exactly as gentle to the fabric as the spinning wheel is to the fibre. 

It is after 3 to 4 days that a Cashmere shawl is complete. The average length of this shawl is 200 cm and the breath is 100 cm. Post weaving the shawls is sent for other finishing processes.

Smoothening, Embroidery, Washing and Packaging:

Post weaving, the fabric is still incomplete and needs some finishing touches before it reaches its takers. The shawl/scarf is taken to another set of artisans, who soften its edges, smoothen its base, and pick any foreign fibres from its surface. If the shawl is to be embroidered, it is handed over to another immensely proficient set of artisans, who embroider it. Based on the quantity of embroidery motifs to be done on the shawl or scarf, the work may take a few months or a few years (Kani Jamawar, Sozni Jamawar and more).

Post the finishing of shawls or scarves, they are sent for washing. The washing isn't done in chemical based detergents and soaps but natural soaps and spring water. Washermen for Cashmere are different from commercial laundry washers. It is done manually. The washermen take the products to spring water sources, and wash it with their own hands with an organic soap. Cashmere fabric is air dried and as soon as it dries, it is brought indoors and ironed in the most crisp way over a mechanical roller iron. The shawl is then properly packed and sent for sale. 

This is the process which Cashmere shawls have to go through. It takes days, and at times years. But the final result is simply a masterpiece. 

Does Cashmere Shrink?

Since Cashmere is one of the most pricey as well as sought after luxury for all women who know about it, damaging the same is nothing less than a nightmare. For this reason, if an individual damages a Cashmere scarf or shawl, he/she should know about the reason as well as the remedies. 

One of the most common problems that customers face when dealing with Cashmere is the shrinking of the fabric. At times, if you tend to wash your Cashmere irresponsibly, your precious wrap may shrink or get disfigured. It usually happens when you either wash it in hot water, or maybe use dryers to dry it, or any other mistake that you never knew would cost you a lot. But before you throw the Cashmere out of your wardrobe, or donate it to a thrift store, there might be a chance of saving it. The following pro tips we are going to share with you work best on shrunk natural fibres. Synthetic fibre does not respond to these techniques, and if by chance synthetics shrink, it is nearly impossible for them to return back to their original position. 

Here is a guide that tells you the reasons why your Cashmere might have shrunk and how you can restore it to its original form.

Also read: How to wash Cashmere at home?

What makes Cashmere shrink?

Cashmere is considered the ultimate luxury. Handcrafted for months together out of rare goat wool, Cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep wool, yet extremely lightweight. With such a high-end product in your hand, you have got to be extra careful in order to deal with it. Proper washing, drying, and storing should be a child’s play for you if you own a piece. 

There are mainly two reasons for Cashmere to shrink. First is the structure. Cashmere is animal hair, and all wool fabrics are sensitive to high heat and moisture. Hence if your high end, luxury shawl/scarf has been in direct contact with heat or moisture, it is bound to face shrinking. Secondly, careless washing or drying will definitely leave a scar on your scarf. If you wash your Cashmere at home with hot water, there are high chances its quality will deteriorate or it will shrink. Hence, immense care has to be taken when handling Cashmere. Here are more details why your Cashmere might have shrunk.

More reason for shrinking of Cashmere

• Cashmere is delicate. So the first reason that it can shrink is washing it in hot water. Similar to all wool fabrics, Cashmere too is inherently sensitive to high-heat and moisture.
• Did you wash your wrap in a washing machine? If you haven't set the temperature of the washing machine to cold, and not set it to a “hand wash” setting, then you have done a blunder. It will definitely shrink. 
• Ironing your Cashmere wraps directly can also be a reason they shrink. If you directly iron a semi wet Cashmere wrap, there are high chances of it either shrinking or pilling.
• The worst method to dry it is to use dryers. If at all you have used a dryer to dry your shawl or wrap, then be ready to look for methods to unshrink it. 
• Did you use a harsh detergent to wash your Cashmere? That was a disaster. It is delicate, and for this reason, markets are filled with Cashmere shampoos. If you are short of one, use a baby shampoo or conditioner instead. Avoid detergents that you use for normal laundry. 

Can you save a shrunken wrap?

Well, the good news is, yes. You can unshrink your Cashmere. But there is again a condition. If your Cashmere has been damaged to a level that it is felted, then the reversal is not possible. Again, check if the shrunk Cashmere has any stretch left. If there is, then celebrate, as it can be stretched and unshrunk again. 

How to Unshrink Cashmere?

To save your precious shawl or wrap, you need several household items: a large tub, mild shampoo or fabric softener, weights, or clothespins which can hold the Cashmere tightly. 

• Fill the large tub with lukewarm water
• Pour in the fabric softener or the baby shampoo or any of the alternatives you are using. 
• Soak the wrap or sweater into this mixture for two hours till it becomes stretchy.
• After 2 hours, take the wrap or sweater out and do not rinse it yet.
• Squeeze all the extra water out, without wringing the product.
• Lay the wrap on a flat surface and stretch the edges as long as it comes to its original size. 
• Place weights on them or pin the edges with the surface underneath to keep the wrap in a stretched position. 
• Leave it like this for an hour to start with, and check if it has regained its original state. If not, leave it again for as long as it gains its actual size.
• As soon as the wrap or sweater retains its original size, rinse it with cold water, and lay out flat on a towel.
• Roll the towel to squeeze and absorb the extra amount of water.
• Unroll the wet towel now, and replace it with a dry towel. 
• Place the wrap/shawl flat on the dry towel and let it rest there till it air dries. 

As soon as it is completely dry, your precious piece will have regained its actual state. 

Precautions to be taken in future

Washing

Always handwash Cashmere. Fill a tub with lukewarm water and Cashmere shampoo. Soak your Cashmere in it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, squeeze the water out and rinse it with cold water. 

If washing in a washing machine, make sure to use the cold water setting, and handwash from the settings. Quickly take your Cashmere out of it as soon as the wash cycle ends.

Drying

Do not put your Cashmere in dryers. It is best to let your Cashmere air dry naturally. Do not hang your wraps as they may become deformed. Do not dry them in direct sunlight. 

The best way to dry Cashmere shawls and scarves is rolling them in between two clean and dry towels. Place two dry, clean towels under and over the scarf and roll them. This will squeeze extra water from it. Then lay the scarf on another flat surface and let it air dry, even if it takes a few days.

Storing

Store your Cashmere in a tissue paper bag, and not in plastic bags. Plastic tends to attract mixture which can be detrimental for these precious products. Place the wrapped Cashmere on a clean, dry shelf in your wardrobe. Place mothballs around the area if needed. 

Wash the Cashmere wrap/shawl once every season. Too much washing too can prove inimical to this luxury product. 

With the proper care and concern, you can again make your Cashmere products as fresh as new. 

Also read: Is it worth buying Cashmere?

FAQs  - Does Cashmere Shrink

A large number of Cashmere fans keep asking questions about the shrinking of Cashmere. We have incorporated several to make it easy to understand. 

Question 1: Does hand washing Cashmere Shrink it?

Answer: This answer comes from our fabric experts. If washed properly, hand washing is the best alternative when it comes to cleaning Cashmere. Washing it in lukewarm water, rinsing it gently, and air drying it helps to clean Cashmere without any compromise to the fibre. If washed with hot water, or if rinsed harshly, Cashmere can shrink or lose its shape forever. 

Question 2: Does Cashmere shrink in the dryer?

Answer: Dryers operate by using hot air to dry out washed clothes. This does dry clothes properly, but that is not how Cashmere (or other wools) has to be dried. Any direct contact to heat will definitely shrink your Cashmere scarves, shawls and sweaters. If you want the long life of your Cashmere, you have to air dry it. This is the best way to dry it, even if it means keeping it in the air for a few days. 

Question 3: Does Cashmere shrink when it is dry cleaned?

Answer: No, dry cleaning does not shrink Cashmere. In fact, some Cashmere scarves do mention on their labels to only dry clean them. Hence, dry cleaning will be the last reason that your Cashmere scarf shrunk in the process. 

If, in case, after sending your Cashmere for dry cleaning, you feel it has shrunk, then the cleaner is to be blamed. Maybe the one cleaning your precious scarf wasn't knowledgeable enough, or maybe he used the wrong cleaning process or agent. Nevertheless, dry cleaning is the safest method as far as cleaning Cashmere is concerned.

Question 4: Does Cashmere shrink over time?

Answer: If washed and stored properly, Cashmere will never shrink. As a matter of fact, Cashmere is believed to acquire an even more graceful look as it ages. 

At times, customers use incorrect ways and methods of washing, drying or storing Cashmere scarves. For example, one might wash the scarf in hot water, or hang it for drying or so. All these methods tend to damage the fibre, and hence cause Cashmere to shrink. The shrinking is almost immediate in some of these cases. 

If, however, proper precaution and care is taken of the Cashmere, it will survive for a lifetime. Hand washing Cashmere with lukewarm water, air drying it, and storing it properly in a moisture free space, away from sunlight, will eventually be very fruitful for the Cashmere user. 

Question 5: Can the shrinking of Cashmere be undone?

Answer: Yes it can. If by chance your Cashmere scarf or shawl (or an outfit) has been shrunk, there are ways to undo so. One just has to prepare a large wash basin and fill it with water (not too cold, not too hot). Then pour Cashmere shampoo in it and soak Cashmere in it for at least 2 hours. The water is to be thrown away after 2 hours after rinsing the scarf gently. 

Now, spread the scarf on a flat surface and start pulling the edges (gently) with your hands. You can ask for someone’s help if you want. After stretching the scarf manually, hold it for sometime in the same position. You can place weights on it for an easy approach. 

Conclusion.

If a wearer asks "Does Cashmere shrink, we know they are heartbroken already. After all, it is a product of premium price and luxury. After spending thousands of dollars for a scarf and wearing it to the most extravagant events, one might lose all hope of recovering a damaged Cashmere. But there are techniques to win these luxury pieces back. Unshrinking Cashmere is possible. But as they say, prevention is better than cure. Always check the label of your Cashmere scarf. This will be the first warning that the seller is giving the wearer. 

Another precautions that the wearer has to take is washing the Cashmere in cold water. Hot water damages the fibre. Washing, drying and storing have to be extra careful, as these three will determine the life of a Cashmere scarf. 

We are all in love with Cashmere, and hence do not want these luxury pieces to lose their natural sheen and elegance. so, we would love our Cashmere shawls or scarves to be as elegant as the 18th century ones, which swooned queens off their feet. We, too, would love to look as elegant as Empress Josephine did when she wore a Kashmiri Kani shawl that her husband gifted her. And we want them for so many years to come. But with long life comes super cautious handling. 

Cashmere is considered the epitome of luxury. This ultra-soft fibre is the downy undercoat of the mountain goats of China, Mongolia, etc. The finest cashmere is collected from the Ladakhi Changthangi goat, which is found 14000 feet above sea level. It is collected in its purest state, processed, and transformed into accessories and apparel which feel like the most luxurious thing that we likely have encountered. With owning one such luxury, comes the responsibility of cashmere care.

We, at Pashmina.com, have manually gotten these plush fibres from the Himalayan Changthangi goats collected, sorted, cleaned, processed, and transformed into beautiful wraps. Our collection of luxurious shawls, stoles, scarves, and hijabs is both warm and comfortable as well as stylish and in vogue. We take special care to offer only the purest form of Cashmere wraps, which look as luxurious after years of use as they look now. 

With owning such a precious piece of clothing or accessory comes the responsibility to care for it. Cashmere is one such fabric that needs special attention and careful use. Be it wearing, washing, or storing it, one has to take all the necessary precautions while dealing with this luxury wrap, so that its life is extended to a lifetime. In case this delicate treasure is dealt with irresponsibly, it might not last for even a year, and wither further with time. Cashmere care is important if you want your wrap to sustain a lifetime.

Hence we today guide you on how to wash, dry, and store cashmere fabric without paying tens of trips to the laundry nearby. We asked our fabric pros for their expertise. Follow these pointers to keep your cherished wraps and sweaters looking brand new for years to come

Washing Cashmere at Home

Whatever is worn is bound to get dirty. Hence your precious Cashmere too needs cleaning, even if just once a year. 

Although the best option to clean Cashmere is to get it dry cleaned. But if that is not available or you are in a hurry to wash it, here are some expert tips to wash it at home. 

• Fill a large tub with tepid water
• Pour into it a good quality Cashmere shampoo, or a mild baby shampoo. 
• Mix this concoction well.
• Soak your wrap/sweater into this mixture, and give it a whirl when you start
• After 30 minutes of soaking, make a ball shape of the wrap and squeeze all the water out
• Do not wring the fabric or it will get deformed for life.
• Rinse it in cold water. Again make a ball, and squeeze the clean water out.

Machine washing a Cashmere

It so happens sometimes that we are running out of time, and need to do a lot of chores other than washing Cashmere fabrics. Washing machines can help, but with a lot of precautions and care.

• Change the setting of your washing machine and keep it at the most gentle cycle. Use a cold water setting, and use a Cashmere shampoo. Start the machine on the ‘hand wash’ setting.
• As soon as the cycle stops, immediately take the wrap out to prevent wrinkles.
• Do not tumble dry your Cashmere, or it will shrink or pill
• It is better that you wash Cashmere in washing machines after covering them in mesh bags. 

Also read: How to Unshrink Cashmere?

Drying a Cashmere wrap

Cashmere hates any harsh treatment, and that is what dryers do. Instead dry your precious piece naturally. 

• Lay a clean, dry towel flat on the ground
• Lay your wrap flat over it
• Roll the towel, so that it squeezes and absorbs extra water
• Open the rolled towel, and replace it with a new dry towel
• Let the wrap remain flat on it for a few days, till it gets completely air-dried. 

Storing a Cashmere wrap

The way you store your Cashmere decides whether it will survive for the next season or not. Therefore, proper cashmere care should be taken about storing Cashmere. Here are some pro tips about storing your precious fabric.

• Always fold your Cashmere. Do not hang it. Hanging deforms the entire shape of the delicate fabric.
• Let Cedar Chips or mothballs accompany your stored Cashmere to ward off moth infestation
• Wrap your dear garment or accessory in such a way that no two layers touch each other. The best way to store it is by wrapping it in tissue paper and passing the same between any two layers which can rub against each other. This reduces Pilling too.
• Make sure that the place where you are storing your wrap is dry, disinfected, and clean. 
• Do not pile many Cashmere products on top of each other. This too can cause pilling, as friction occurs between their exteriors. 
• Wash your Cashmere products before you store them. Oils from your body, which the sweater or wrap might have absorbed, will devastate your adored piece. 

Save your wrap from Shrinking

You would never want this highly invested piece of fabric reduced in size. Proper care during its wash and drying can guarantee its long life, without shrinkage. Here are some tips to prevent shrinkage in Cashmere

• Always wash Cashmere in cold or lukewarm water. If it encounters hot water, it will definitely shrink.
• Do not tumble dry your Cashmere. Dryers tend to harm this natural fabric, and as a result, the entire product reduces in size. 

Spot treatment for Stains

If in case, your Cashmere sweater or wrap gets a stain, you do not need to wash the entire shawl. Most marks completely disappear by blotting them with baby shampoo or the Cashmere shampoo itself. Rinse the wrap later in cold water, and lay it flat to dry.

How to prevent pilling of Cashmere

Pilling usually occurs when the surface of Cashmere repeatedly touches itself or other surfaces. This vigorous friction of the delicate fibre causes tiny fibres to the coil with each other, which results in the appearance of small fuzzy fibre balls. This is called bobbling or pilling.

To prevent Cashmere from pilling, deal with it gently. Do not pile Cashmere products over each other. Use tissue paper in between consecutive layers when storing it. If pilling still occurs, use lint removers or fabric shavers to remove them. Your used product will be smooth and fresh as if new. 
Hence, cashmere care is important if you want it to sustain a lifetime

Also read: What are Pashmina shawls made of?

Luxury isn't only what we wear. Accessorizing in fine products is also being luxury loving. And we never believe that living a luxurious life isn't very good in the long run. After all, everyone deserves pampering, and what is more pampering than wearing the best accessories of all times. We found something that is timeless, finest and of course higher on the price scale. Cashmere scarves

Cashmere scarves come from Kashmir, and are a luxury in itself. These scarves are believed to have come into existence in the 15th century when a Persian traveler discovered them. The finesse of Cashmere wool, the softness and feathery light weight of this luxury animal hair surprised the traveler, who later introduced the same in the Royal courts of the time. This is when the processing of fine Cashmere wool took pace, and factories were set up to transform wool into shawls, scarves and wraps. Since then, there has been no turning back, and Cashmere scarves have managed to swoon individuals around the world with their luxurious opulence and poise.

Let us dig deep into the origin of Cashmere, and know more about this plush fibre that makes an unforgettable impression on even those who have just one look at it.

What is Cashmere?

Ever went shopping for winter wraps, and accidentally touched the softest thing on earth? There is a high chance that you have had the first experience with Cashmere. Cashmere scarves are soft, fine, lightweight, and hence a luxury to own. But the huge price tags often seem worrisome for several individuals who might not know what Cashmere is. 

Cashmere is often called Cashmere wool. But surprisingly it is not wool. It is the hair of a rare goat. These goats grow this exceptionally soft and fine fleece as a defense mechanism against freezing cold. But they grow such a small quantity of the same that 2 or 3 goats have to be combed to get fibre for a single wrap. This, and many more reasons to justify the high prices of Cashmere. Even though its patrons have never cared about its high price, we still have defense for its unexpected price tags. Let's know more about this luxury fibre.

Origin of Cashmere Scarves

The term Cashmere is an anglicization of Kashmir, the hometown of Cashmere, coined by Europeans. It was first discovered by Shah E Hamdan, a Sufi saint, who visited the valet from Persia. As he realized the luxurious texture and feel of Cashmere, he ordered socks to be made out of this wool type. This pair of exceptionally plush socks was gifted to the then king Zain ul Abideen, who being highly impressed ordered manufacturing units to be established for the processing of raw Cashmere. 

As Cashmere scarves from Kashmir gained prominence, it was shortly exported to Europe, especially France and Scotland. Craftsmen in these countries later came up with their own version of Cashmere products. Yet their wealthier population still ordered wraps from Kashmir, even if it meant paying heavy prices. Upper-class British women prized the fabric for its lightweight texture and subtle warmth. (Pure Cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep’s wool, despite being a lot lighter than the same).

It is believed that from the 1500s to the early 1900s, Iranian and Indian kings and emperors used Cashmere scarves in their religious ceremonies. If a ruler presented a Cashmere wrap to another, it would mean acceptance of a condition and established a hierarchy between the giver and the receiver. 

Where do Cashmere goats live?

Changthangi goat is a medium-sized domestic goat breed. It is raised for its wool production. These are most often white in colour but also seen in black, gray, ash, or brown. Changthangi goats have large curved horns and long coats. They are recognized by short and straight ears and the thick undercoat that helps them survive the cold. 

These goats are found in China, Mongolia, Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, and the Changthang valley of Ladakh. The finest Cashmere is the one found in Ladakhi goats, also known as Changthangi goat. It is used to make Kashmiri Pashmina shawls.

White is the most prevalent colour as far as the Cashmere goats are concerned. But their shades may vary. Female goats are around 30 kgs in weight, whereas males are 30 kgs in just 3 years. The goats give just 150-250 grams of Cashmere per year, making the fire rarer. It takes the wool from 3 to 4 goats to prepare one Pashmina shawl. 

Cashmere goats are alert and cautious, not placid and lazy. Their temperament befits their lifestyle, where there is a risk of predation often.

Inhospitable Conditions of Ladakh

Rearing animals in the plateau of Changthang is not an easy task. The region offers extremely inhospitable conditions, where even the acquisition of basic essentials is a challenge. For centuries, the nomadic shepherds have been living there, moving their animals from one place to the other every few months, looking for fresh grazing pastures. Yet now, even this life is being challenged by climate change as well as fake Cashmere scarves exports from China, which has made life more complicated for these people, who just need basic essentials to survive

Also read: Empowering Pashmina Artisans

Why is Cashmere Expensive?

The most asked question to our fabric experts is "Why is Cashmere Expensive"? Well, Cashmere is expensive, and we feel rightful so. The Changpa tribe makes sure that the goats gently get combed during the spring moulting season. Later the collected undercoat is sorted manually and pure is separated from impure wool as well as dirt and dust. A goat produces merely 150 grams, and processing these 150 grams is a painstaking activity. It takes a few months to a year for the most highly skilled artisans to work over handlooms for preparing a single wrap. These wraps are then exported to countries all over the world and sold in hundreds to thousands of dollars. This makes Cashmere expensive, as well as one of the most demanded fabrics around the world. Here are a few more reasons which show why Cashmere scarves are expensive. 

Cashmere is the king of fibres

The chilling cold in the Changthang region triggers the growth of Cashmere over the body of the goat. The wool hence grown is super soft, thin, lightweight yet exceptionally warm and cozy (when hand woven into a fabric). It is considered the king of fibres and this has been so for centuries. The diameter of one strand of Cashmere is just 12 to 16 microns. Being so fine doesn’t stop it from being one of the warmest materials on the earth and 8 times warmer than the sheep’s wool). Cashmere scarves hence made are the most luxurious wraps on earth.

How is Cashmere collected?

From the way it is manually acquired to the completion of a Cashmere scarf , every process is immensely labour intensive in Cashmere production. Raw wool is collected from the mountain ranges as soon as Spring sets. The goat is in its moulting period, and hence sheds a portion of its wool. This wool, spread all over the region as well as the portion still stuck to its body, is collected and cleaned. It is sent for processing, where it meets spinners and weavers to produce a luxury fabric. Every step is ethical, and there is no animal cruelty associated with wool collection.

There would be no Cashmere production in the world if it wasn't for the meticulous efforts of its craftsmen in Kashmir. From cleaning to spinning to weaving and embroidery, every single process is manual in the making of the world-famous Kashmiri Pashmina shawls. Cleaning takes 3 to 4 days, and then spinning takes a few months. Weaving takes another few days, and then embroidery might even take years to complete. All this time local artisans just use their skill and decades-old experience to craft masterpieces.

Also read: How are Pashmina Shawls made?

Timelessness of Cashmere scarves

Cashmere is timeless. A Cashmere scarf which is 30 years old looks as elegant as a fresh piece. This owes to the manual labour that is put into it, and the regal demeanour that Cashmere scarves exhibit. It was the timelessness of Cashmere scarves that made Empress Josephine an admirer of these and order a few hundred wraps in her life. 

Rare, Limited Production of wool for making Cashmere scarves

The wool from Cashmere goats is acquired in the Spring and Summer seasons and the sale has to start in winter. Because the moulting is season-defined, manufacturers have to wait for an entire year to receive the raw wool in order to start preparing Pashmina shawls or Cashmere scarves. This limited production makes it rarer and hence valuable.

Also read: Are Cashmere scarves worth it?

The Softest and warmest yet the lightest

One of the reasons men and women alike love Cashmere scarves is the fact that these are exceptionally warm yet feathery light. When compared to the level of comfort and warmth Cashmere scarves give, one expects them to be thick and heavy. But to their surprise, a full length scarf is barely 400 grams! This means it is as lightweight as perhaps a large silk shawl. For this reason, Cashmere scarves are the first accessories that are chosen for travel as its light weighted nature helps make travel easier.

Cashmere vs Pashmina

Often the wearers of Cashmere scarves are confused between the terms Cashmere and Pashmina. The reason is that the finest Cashmere is made in Kashmir, but in Kashmir mostly individuals call them Pashmina shawls or scarves. So what is the reason behind this clash in nomenclature, lets find out.

Cashmere is the term used to define the fine hair that grows on the body of the Ladakhi goat. The wool was discovered in the 14th century by a Sufi saint - Mir Syed Ali Hamdani. Pashmina, on the other hand, is the art of transforming this fine wool to luxury wraps, shawls and scarves. But in Kashmir, the term Cashmere is used synonymously with the term Pashmina, hence making it difficult for a few customers to understand. The term Pashmina is only used in Kashmir, and India. Rest of the world knows these luxury accessories as Cashmere.

Are Cashmere scarves worth being Expensive?

As mentioned earlier, there are a several reasons why Cashmere scarves are expensive. The reasons are absolutely unique, and hence Cashmere scarves are the most pricey when compared to their counterparts. Many believe that these luxury accessories aren't worth the price. But when we researched about their acquisition, making and quality of the final products, we realized they deserve all the attention they receive.

Acquiring Cashmere is itself a challenge. Cashmere goats are found at the Himalayan ranges that lie over 15000 feet above sea level. The temperature is harsh and herders live a difficult life which has challenges every single day. In these harsh conditions, herders manage to rare the goats and acquire Cashmere wool from them. The wool is pretty rare, and one goat produces a meagre 150 grams. The wool is cleaned then, and sent for processing

The processing of Cashmere wool is yet another challenge. It take weeks, months or even years to process just one scarf made of Cashmere. It all starts from cleaning the Cashmere wool which is handspun post cleaning. Hand spinning takes immense labour work where labourers sit at one place for long times and keep spinning the lumps of wool, transforming them to fibre. This fibre is later hand woven, manually, and fine, lightweight and high quality fabric is hence produced.

From the start to the end, Cashmere scarf making is sustainable. Sustainability, in addition to the other qualities, make Cashmere scarves expensive, and rightly so. Solid scarves are pretty affordable, but densely embroidered scarves are a lot expensive. High price comes from high quality, and no one ever denies it. Hence, most of the takers agree to the high price, and most of the times consider it as an investment.

Also known as the “diamond fibre” or the “king of fibres”, Cashmere has been prized for its smooth touch, immense softness and extraordinary warmth since its inception. The very first documentation of the use of this fine wool dates back to the 14th century. In Kashmir, Cashmere was discovered accidentally in the 16th century by a Persian saint and scholar. In just a few years, Europeans came to know about this luxury fibre, and trade started between the valley and the West. Cashmere gained prominence amongst kings, Emperors, queens and wealthy noblemen and aristocrats in 18th century Britain and France. Cashmere was rare and pricey, and only the affluent could afford it. But is cashmere vegan?

Today, the destruction of fast fashion has made Cashmere similar to any other wool category by blending it with sheep wool, silk, or nylon. Now Cashmere is more affordable, but there is still something concerning people about its contribution to animal cruelty

What is Veganism?

Veganism, or the state of being vegan, is a modern stance against animal oppression and cruelty. People who are vegans do not use any of the products associated with animals. Be it food, clothing, researches, or entertainment, vegans avoid animal exploitation as much as they can. 

This means that vegan ideology followers eat plant-based foods and would not prefer animal products like chicken, meat, etc. Similarly, vegans do not wear wool, snake leather, suede, or other materials that come from animals. This would mean that vegans do not wear Cashmere, since it is an animal fibre. Vegans believe that any kind of wool associated with cruelty to animals is better to be avoided. Hence, there is no term as Vegan Cashmere.

Also read: What is Real Cashmere?

Difference between Vegans and Vegetarians

Vegetarians do not eat animals, but vegans do not even use animal products. This is the core difference between vegans and vegetarians. Vegetarians do not kill animals for the purpose of eating but may eat products that come from them (such as dairy and eggs). 

Veganism can be called a much stricter form of vegetarianism. Vegans tend to be really passionate about animals. This category of individuals does not wear leather or suede as these are made from animal skin. They also avoid the fabrics that are made from animal byproducts, like silk and wool, mainly for the reason that animals are harmed in the making of these. Vegans look for cosmetics that are cruelty-free in their making. As such, they choose lipstick and foundation which are animal fat-free, nail treatments that are gelatin free, makeup removers that are lanolin-free, and similarly every type of product that doesn't contain any animal byproduct

Vegans do not support any form of animal exploitation. Hence they do not visit zoos or aquariums or take part in dog or horse racing. They believe that a better alternative is visiting as well as supporting animal sanctuaries that provide safe homes for rescued animals

Is Cashmere Vegan?

To decide whether Cashmere is vegan or not, we need to check its source. Let's find out what Cashmere is and where does it come from, and if there is a term called Vegan Cashmere.

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the fine undercoat of a rare goat species, which is found in parts of China, Mongolia, Nepal, Iran, Iraq, and India. The Ladakh region of Kashmir, India, produces the finest quality of cashmere in the world. The goat on which Cashmere grows is called Changthangi goat which grows a fine, warm fleece as a down fibre in winter to survive the extreme temperature (which goes down to minus 50 degrees). The wool protects its body from the freezing weather conditions until summer comes. In the summer season, the same wool makes the goat extremely uncomfortable and it becomes unbearable for the goat to carry it.

As herders gauge the discomfort of the goat, they, with the help of professionals, comb the wool off the goat's body and make it free to roam again. Some portion of the wool can be found in the surrounding areas which the goat has rubbed itself. This and the one combed off the goat's body are collected and stored for processing. 

The most popular use of Cashmere is the making of Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, which are renowned all across the globe. We, at Pashmina.com, bring the exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas made from the finest cashmere from Changthang and handmade in Kashmir.

Also read: Kashmiri Artisans | Hands Behind the Craft

Is Cashmere Cruel?

While many believe that Cashmere is cruel, it is not. No animal is harmed in the process of acquiring, sourcing, or processing Cashmere. The Changthangi goat is a domestic animal. Hence herders do not need to kill it for Cashmere. It politely lets professionals comb off the wool from its body, as it itself is in dire need of the same. Also, Cashmere is not sheared but gently combed off using specialized combs and tools. Hence the goat isn't even hurt in the process. 

Is Cashmere Vegan?

Even though Cashmere isn't cruel at all, this does not account for it to be vegan. Cashmere is not vegan. This is because it is an animal byproduct. Veganism believes in avoiding animal byproducts also, and wool is one of them. Hence Vegans strictly say NO to Cashmere, and claim that the same is cruel, although that is certainly not the case. Hence Vegan Cashmere does not exist.

Why buy Cashmere?

It might sound strange that we as responsible citizens of society and the planet still deal with Cashmere when the grapevine suggests the opposite. But that is not the case. The Cashmere products we deal in are checked exactly from its procurement. It is thoroughly inspected if the Cashmere is traded in winter or summer. Summer traded Cashmere is ethical, as these goats have been shorn in summer itself. The Cashmere which traders trade in winters has been shorn off the goats in winters, hence threatening their lives. 

The Cashmere products we bring for you, contribute to slow and sustainable fashion. Our wraps, shawls, and scarves last for more than 20 years. They are made up of Pure Cashmere from Ladakh, and no blending is done during the processing.

Is Cashmere vegan? No. It is an animal byproduct so it cannot be said to be vegan. But the processing of Cashmere is done manually and ethically. As such the weaving and embroidery are done by special artisans, who spend months or years together to prepare one single wrap. No pollution-causing machines are used, and the artisans are paid fairly and timely salaries. As such these underprivileged craftsmen of the valley get encouraged to give proper education to their children and a better life to their families. 

Also read: Pashmina for the Positively Conscious - An Ethical Story

When Pashmina was discovered for the very first time in 16th century Kashmir, it was in its purest form. The reason behind purity was that synthetic fibre did not exist. And that machines had not taken over. But as soon as greedy and dishonest traders began dealing with the luxury craft, they introduced machines like power looms into the manufacturing. Power looms need stronger threads and hence strong fibres like nylon would be mixed with Pashmina to be processed by power looms. And the beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina - which was its premium quality and finesse began to be compromised. Pashmina was produced by many regions, but it was only Kashmiri Pashmina that would have international patrons and admirers.

Present Scenario of Kashmiri Pashmina

The present scenario differentiates Kashmiri Pashmina from its counterparts. While there is lesser production of Pashmina from Kashmir, big giants like China have taken over the market. China produces 70 percent of the world's cashmere production, while Mongolia produces 20 percent. The remaining 10% is produced in other Cashmere producing regions like Afghanistan, India, Nepal, the United States of America, and elsewhere. 

Based on the types of Cashmere, there are three main breeds that are reared over the Mighty Himalayas in Tibet, Nepal, and Central Asia

• Changthangi or Pashmina goat: This is the goat whose undercoat grows Kashmiri Pashmina. It is reared on the Chanthang plateau in Tibet and parts of the Ladakh region
• Malra goat: This breed of goats comes from the Kargil area of Kashmir
• Chegu goat: Cashmere wool comes from the Chegu goat in the Himachal Pradesh in North India
• Chyangra goat: The Nepalese Pashmina goat Chyangra is reared for its Cashmere wool.

Also read: Is Pashmina Vegan?

The Geographical Indication

Out of all these production centres, it is the Kashmiri Pashmina that is considered the best and the finest. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas from this rare cashmere goat species of Kashmir. On 5 August 2013, Kashmiri Pashmina was given the Geographical Indication (GI) as an authenticity certification. It is a mark corresponding to a specific geographical location or origin.

The Geographical Indication acts as a certification that the product has some unique qualities not found anywhere else, enjoys a certain reputation due to its geographical origin, and is crafted according to traditional methods. And since Kashmir Pashmina is the only Pashmina in the world that uses the traditional Charkha (locally known as the yinder) to spin, and traditional handloom to weave the Pashmina, it is hence the most original of all. For Kashmiri Pashmina, GI mark means it is

• Hand Spun
• Hand Woven
• The fibre has a diameter of 12-16 microns

The Geographical Indication has been much helpful for the locals in many ways

• GI Pashmina helped with the prosperity of local artisans who work day & night to produce Pashmina using only traditional methods
• GI Pashmina helps one to identify fake Kashmiri Pashmina wraps; thus preventing consumers to fall prey to false claims of deceivers.
• The king of Wools - Pashmina has to an extent regained its lost glory. 

The deception of the Ring Test

Before industrialization and the introduction of cheap and fake copies of the Pashmina from around the world, no one cared about if the piece they have draped is even real. But since the late 19th century, when the European and American dealers started mixing real Pashmina with imitated copies, everyone began to doubt their highly invested Pashminas. 

Is my Pashmina shawl original? Have I been cheated? These questions have now for decades haunted patrons of traditional shawl making.  It came to the notice of many buyers that to check the genuineness of their Pashmina wraps, one has to pass it through a finger-ring. If it passes, it is an original piece. But little did they have any knowledge about the fallacy of this test. 

Also read: How are Pashmina Shawls made?

The Truth

The Pashmina ring test is not valid. With the invention of fabric softeners, even the roughest of wool can pass through a ring. The ring test was valid for Shahtoosh shawls, but never has the ring test been a parameter for testing the originality of Pashmina. 

Where did the ring test come from?

A renowned corporate house featured an advertisement. In the ad, a trader sells Pashmina to women who inform him about their knowledge of an original Pashmina wrap and that he must not try to deceive them. The women in the ad use the ring test itself to check the originality of the piece. The advertisement did not go well with the people of J&K, who very well knew that the ring test is a fallacy. The ad was misleading and proved to be detrimental for the Kashmiri artisans, whose Pashminas were pure but did not pass through a ring.

How to check real Pashmina?

Since the advent of the Geographical Indication (GI) certification, it has become absolutely easy for customers to identify real Pashmina against fake copies. The first method to check if your Pashmina is not fake is looking for a GI tag. It is somewhere around the corners of the shawl. If you find on the Pashmina GI tag, then you are investing in the purest form of the Kashmiri Pashmina scarf.  Rest assured that Pashmina, GI marked is the purest of all. If you own a GI Pashmina, you do not need to worry about purity or authentication.

However, if there is no GI tag over the shawl, that doesn't mean that the shawl is not original. If your seller provides you a certificate of quality assurance done by The CDI (Crafts Development Institute) Ministry of Textiles as part of Govt of India that certifies each product, the shawl is still pure and original. Pashmina (GI) holds the top position, as far as purity is concerned.

Testing Your Pashmina

You are sorted if you have to buy a Pashmina now since you know what to check with your seller. But what if you already own a Pashmina? Is it original? Is it pure? 

Here is how to find this out

Purity Tests for Pashmina

There have been certain purity tests for a Pashmina wrap which can be done even at your home. Let's go through them and get our Pashminas checked right after this

The Burn Test

Take a piece from the fringes of your Pashmina wrap and burn it.

Now, check the odor of the burnt piece and the texture of the ashes carefully with your fingertips.

If you get a burnt hair smell, then your piece is most likely to be pure. Since Pashmina is made from real, natural hair, it gives out the smell of the same upon burning.

The burnt part of Pashmina should be matte, quite similar to how it was before. 

Weave of the Wrap

Hold your Pashmina wrap against a light source so that its weave is visible.

If you see irregularities and nuances in the weave, your Pashmina is most likely original. 

That is because a machine-made shawl has perfect and regular weave patterns which isn't the case with a handmade. It is these irregularities that make a Pashmina an heirloom piece. 

Too much glow?

If your Pashmina wrap has a shiny surface, then know that it has silk fabric added to it while weaving. Pashmina is a natural goat hair that is matte in its appearance. A little shine is possible as the thread is exceptionally fine, but too much of it shows your product is fake.

It is said that beautiful places carry beautiful things. This doesn't come true more in any other place than Ladakh. It's more like nature has gifted the world with the overwhelming beauty of Ladakh, and gifted Ladakh the overwhelming beauty of heritage Pashmina.

Also read: All You Need to Know About the Pashm Fibre - Pashmina Wool

Cashmere is one of the most luxurious and precious wools on earth. It has an extraordinary feel and experience when worn, and is characterized by its soft, fine, and lightweight fibre. It is the process of obtaining it harmlessly from the Himalayan species of goats that makes Cashmere expensive. Since its advent, pure, and high-quality, Cashmere has enjoyed a high status in the eyes of royalty all around the world. But with the introduction of blended variants, Cashmere became affordable for everyone and lost that reverence and holy status that it held in the past

High-end fashion garments, even now, use Cashmere as their stable raw material. For this reason, it is much popular in the west. The reason for its lush and extravagant nature is its heavenly appearance and feel. Unlike other types of wool, Cashmere is not itchy against the skin. On the contrary, it is blissfully soft, smooth, and feathery light.

Where is Cashmere found?

The largest producer of Cashmere is China followed by Mongolia. These two regions make up for 90% of the Cashmere in the world. diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. Several breeds are present in the world viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats. The finest Cashmere is produced in the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir.

We, at Pashmina.com, make Pashminas with the Cashmere sourced from Ladakh that accounts for just 0.75% of the total Cashmere produced in the world. But its fineness, warmth, and luxurious mien exceed all of the other variants. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there is almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

An exotic species of goat is found in the high mountain ranges of Ladakh, North India. A place called Changthang which lies over 14000 feet above sea level houses this rare species of goat, which is reared by nomadic herders. It is this goat whose wool has been long utilized to craft luxury shawls, scarves, wraps, and other accessories. The goat grows Cashmere as an undercoat over its underbelly, throat, and behind the ears. It is this wool that is painstakingly combed off gently by professionals and herders together. The process is completely ethical and no animal is hurt during the entire process.

Also read: The Trail of India’s Cashmere Goat Men

How is Cashmere procured?

From the Changhthanghi mountain, the beginning of the journey starts. There is the dwelling of rare species of goat called Changra Goats. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. These are mainly herded by the tribe of Changpa. In the Changhthanghi region, the temperature goes to -40°C in winter. Thus, the Changra goats develop an undercoat of thick wool over their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh climate. The wool is thick and soft. It is called Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool of Ladakh is the finest among all the production of Cashmere wool. There are several breeds of goats that produce cashmere wool. But, the finest among all is the Ladakhi Cashmere wool.

Therefore, wool from the goat is collected in the Spring season (around April-May). It is the time when the goat naturally sheds its down coat which allows it to stay cooler during the summer months. This natural process allows the cashmere to be extracted without any harm to the goat. The remaining portion of the wool still attached to the goat’s body is gently combed off and packed to be sent for processing. 

A single goat produces 4-6 ounces (around 150 grams) of wool per year. Hence to prepare one Cashmere wrap, wool from 3 to 4 goats is considered enough. This wool is spun into yarns manually, and handwoven into luxury apparel, shawls, scarves, etc.

How is the premium Cashmere Crafted?

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. Crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is cleaned and soaked. This signifies the outset of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form. The cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to the finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley.

Moreover, the unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. In addition, the Cashmere yarn thus produced confers to the purest and finest yarn of 12 to 16 microns. Thus, the finest Cashmere yarn moves further in the procedure radiating the Art of Pashmina.

Weaving and Designing of the fine Cashmere

After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn into fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn into the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood. The process of weaving is to use Cashmere yarn to create warps and wefts. Thus, producing a whole fine Cashmere fabric.

Therefore, the Cashmere produced is given the required dimensions. Thus, diverse styles like Pashmina Shawls are crafted. After Weaving, the fine Cashmere fabric is given the required dimensions to make it an exquisite accessory for the Pashmina Shawl. There is the process of Dyeing by the dyer in Kashmir to pervade Pashmina Shawls with the tinges of nature. In addition, the Designing begins in Kashmir itself where artisans work manually on each design including patterns, embroideries, embellishments, prints, etc.

Why is Cashmere Expensive?

Cashmere has a number of features that are rare to find and which makes it revered all over the world. Here are some amazing qualities of this luxury fabric and why cashmere is expensive, for which it is cherished by every admirer of slow, responsible, and timeless fashion.

Exceptional Warmth

To withstand a temperature of minus 40 degrees in the cold and arid area of Changthang, the goat naturally grows Cashmere as a down fiber. And with the help of this fine fleece, it survives these grim conditions. That is how warm Cashmere is. This extraordinarily soft wool is believed to be eight times warmer than sheep wool, and three times more insulating. In addition to this, even after being so warm, it is feathery light. The warmth is adequate to provide you comfort in the seasons of coldness. Fine Cashmere is extraordinary wool that has the magical qualities of being the finest yet the warmest. Wearing the Pashmina accessories provide life to the moments of grace by admiring grace as well as protecting from the coldness of the season.

Manual Labour

Cashmere acquisition and processing are all manual. Professionals manually comb the goat to acquire it. Later it is manually cleaned by locals, as well as Kashmiri womenfolk. After cleaning, it is handspun over a manual wooden spinning wheel to transform lumps of wool into yarn. Post this, men hand weave it over traditional handlooms for a few days. If a wrap is to be embroidered, it takes months to years for the completion of those complex designs. At Least a total of 100 artisans pour their heart and soul into one piece of wrap, sweater, or any other Cashmere accessory.

Artisans have been into the craft of Pashmina for ages and they work day and night to craft the luxury of any masterpiece of Pashmina. The hand-spinning, hand-weaving, and hand-designing take up to months and years to craft a single piece of Pashmina. The hand-embroideries, hand embellishments, and hand-woven styles are examples of exquisite craftsmanship. Defining the realm of Kashmir, the artisans have upheave the luxury of Pashmina by their pristine hand-skill.

Fineness of the Fibre

Cashmere, when spun into yarn, gives extremely fine threads of wool. These threads are just 12-16 microns in diameter, which is one-fourth of human hair. This makes Cashmere one of the finest and most lightweight wool types around the world. The fine yarns are so well developed to be worked upon on the handloom to craft the finesse of the Pashmina collection. Beautifully crafted by the hands of artisans, the accessories gracefully get crafted in the valley of Kashmir.

Empowering Underprivileged communities

As many as 50 families are such whose only source of income is Cashmere processing. This doesn't make Cashmere expensive, but more valued and revered by the local community. Womenfolk as well as menfolk of artisans work daily to ensure the greatness of the Pashmina as a craft of heritage. Defining the beatitude of the hand-skill of the artisans, they revive the beauty of Pashmina but suffer under the hands of low wages and no sustenance. Therefore, pashmina.com not only revives the richness of Pashmina but provides sustenance to the artisan community. The part of the amount of each Pashmina accessory supports the unprivileged community in Kashmir to support the human livelihood there.

Limited production

Cashmere is sourced from Ladakh only once a year, as the goat sheds only in the Spring-Summer season. Hence the producers of Cashmere products are dependent only on the quantity that is exported per year. This makes Cashmere products rare and exclusive with a limited supply and a high demand. The Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps. Thus, the production is limited as well the collection is rare and one-of-a-kind. It is believed that once you get your hands on Cashmere products, it is hard to switch to any other type of wool. All the reasons makes the Cashmere expensive in its own way.

Also read: Empowering Pashmina Artisans

Are all offerings of the same price?

Pricing of Cashmere does depend on the quality and size of the product. But there are some other factors that determine the price of Cashmere. 

Sometimes similar looking products are priced differently. But the price variation isn't necessarily due to the difference in purity. There might be other differences as well

• Count: Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that can be spun per gram. The more yarn-count the thinner, the smoother and more precious is the scarf. This is the reason why Pure Cashmere is more expensive. 

• Ply of the fibre used: Ply indicates the density of fibre used. Single-ply cashmere wraps would mean that basic thread is used in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply would indicate that fibre is double twisted. Two-ply cashmere wraps are more expensive than single ply, as more fibre is used to craft it

• Thickness of the fibre: How thick the fibre also determines the price of Cashmere wraps/shawls. The finer the fibre used, the more expensive the cashmere scarf becomes. In fact, it might be surprising, but it is believed that the finer the Cashmere, the warmer it is. 

Once you experience the feel of Cashmere, you will know that the prices are very well deserved. Cashmere deserves all the respect and attention as well as a special place in your luxury wardrobe of winter staples. 

Also read: 500 Years of Timeless Fashion - Pure Pashmina

Luscious, luxurious, and exceptionally soft, Cashmere is one of those fabrics which one wants to feel more than wear. But many of us did not yet get a chance of doing so. So we take you on the journey of how Cashmere feels, how is it made, and where does it come from.

Where does cashmere come from?

The soft, fine, and luxurious fibre of Cashmere come from a certain species of prized goats. These goats are found in Northern India in a region called Ladakh, where the rare and exotic Changthangi goat lives. It is this goat that grows luxury fine fleece over its body, which is later processed to become Cashmere sweaters, shawls, wraps, scarves, mufflers, socks and other accessories. 

Cashmere is processed in Kashmir, and this is the place where Europeans saw it first. From Kashmir, large exports of Cashmere products took place in the 18th to 19th centuries. 

Also read: The Kashmiri shawl: Early History and Literature

How is this fine wool processed?

Cashmere is combed by specialized tools in the springtime, which is the moulting season for the goats. It is the time when the goat is naturally losing its undercoat. This is raw Cashmere, and it comes from the goat’s belly, the underside of the throat, and behind the ears. Wool is collected in small pouches and it is later cleaned thoroughly to separate guard hair and other dirt attached to it. 

To meet the high-quality standards that Cashmere is world-famous for, the diameter of the spun yarn has to be 12-16 microns only (a human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns). This wondrous fibre even has the insulating capability, which makes the finished product three times more insulating than sheep wool. 

Production of Cashmere

The 90% of cashmere of the world is found in China, Mongolia, and Nepal. Only 10% comes from India and others Asian countries. The finest Cashmere is obtained from the Capra haircuts species of goats found in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, India. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our collection of luxury Pashminas from this finest Cashmere. The annual yield from one Changthangi goat is roughly 150 grams. This makes the wool quite rare. For a large-sized women’s shawl, (200*100 cms), fleece from at least 3 to 4 goats is required. The same is required for a thin full-sized Cashmere cardigan. A goat that has the capacity to yield higher amounts might be chosen to prepare large sweaters, and if the quality has to be the best, then the goat’s underbelly fibre is chosen. 

Perhaps now we know that the high prices of Cashmere are very well deserved. Be it the labour-intensive process of acquiring and processing the raw fiber, the low yield per goat, or the exceptional softness and warmth of the final product, Cashmere is indeed the king of fibres. 

Why should we invest in it?

There are so many reasons why we should own at least one Cashmere product in our lifetime. While women might be indifferent to it because of its price, or dubious about its quality, there are plenty of them who are just curious. So we give them some good reasons to buy Cashmere today.

It is warmer than wool

Why invest in a thick woolen scarf or sweater, when you can be more comfortable with a lightweight, fine Cashmere one. Yes, Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep wool, and lighter in weight too. This makes it the first preference while shopping for winter.

It is breathable

Despite being one of the warmest products in the world, Cashmere is quite breathable. One would never feel too hot in a Cashmere product, as it has great insulating properties. 

Is Cashmere Itchy?

This question surprised us too. When one of our customers asked us “Is Cashmere itchy?”, we were startled, because there is nothing as soft and smooth as Cashmere. As compared to sheep wool, Cashmere is far less itchy. 

However, Cashmere is a natural fibre, and some of you can be allergic or sensitive to it. If it is so, you can cover it underneath with cotton or silk layering. 

What does it feel like?

Cashmere has a heavenly feel. It has an exceptional softness and it is lightweight and downy. It gives a person that kind of experience which he/she probably hasn't felt before. Once you wear it, you will forget about all the luxuries the world has.

Also read: Why Pashminas? | 10 Reasons to have a Pashmina

How to Care for Cashmere?

A Cashmere wrap has to be cared about like a baby. From the way you wear it to its washing, drying, and storing, everything is to be done with proper precaution and care.

As far as washing is concerned it is better to wash this luxury fabric with hands. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and a Cashmere shampoo. If you're short of the same, a mild baby shampoo too will work. Soak the product in for 30 seconds and then rinse with cold water. Do not wring

Drying Cashmere has to be natural. Just put your sweater/ wrap over a dry towel and roll the towel to absorb the water from it. Replace this wet towel with a new dry one, and let the gentle fabric air dry naturally

Storing your valued wrap or scarf again has to be a responsible process. The place where you store your precious piece has to be clean, dry, and disinfected. Do not store it in plastic as plastic helps grow moisture. Instead wrap it in large tissue papers, to keep it dry and safe. 

Can a Cashmere Wrap Stretch?

Yes, these wraps can stretch and get disfigured. This is the reason why it should not be wrung after washing. Also, a Cashmere wrap should not be hung from a hanger, as it has more drape than bounce. As such, it does not return to its original form. Instead, it should be stored in a drawer in a folded position, or else hanging will pull it down due to gravity and it will get deformed forever. 

If your Cashmere has stretched for some reason, wash it in lukewarm water, reshape it, and dry it flat. There is a possibility that it might regain its original shape.

Concluding, we can say

That is it about the feel and experience that a Cashmere gives you. It comes from the mighty Himalayan ranges to your wardrobes, after treading a painstaking path. Exactly from its procurement to its finish, your luxury product passes through the hands of a hundred craftsmen, who put in their heart and soul into detailing it. It is their love and care that makes it extra special, and worthy of every effort spent to have it.

Also read: How to Care for your Pashmina? | Essential Tips to keep Pashmina new forever