Cashmere is a luxury fibre. It is fine, lightweight, yet extraordinarily warm and cosy. This accounts for its high price, as well as a great precaution which is to be taken while washing or storing it. Luxury items made from Cashmere have to be cared about in order to extend their life. After all, they beautify you in ways that you could never have imagined.
Cashmere is a lifetime investment. It comes from the luxury fleece of the Changthangi goat and is manually processed to land in your wardrobes. The tough path it traverses in between makes it highly luxurious, exclusive, rare, and hence pricey. Hence, great care is to be taken while dealing with it.
What is Cashmere?
Cashmere is the name given to the fine and warm hair type that grows on the body of the Himalayan goat. It is super fine, lightweight, warm and luxurious. The best Cashmere grows on the body of a Ladakhi goat which is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. This is the hair that makes luxury shawls, scarves, and sweaters. It is acquired from the goat in hot summers and is later processed to prepare luxuriously warm apparel and accessories.
Cashmere is famous and has been so since the 18th century when it became a buzzword after Empress Josephine wore it for the first time.
Cashmere Acquisition and Processing
Acquiring Cashmere is the real challenge when it comes to the production of world-famous Cashmere scarves and wraps. The reason for this difficulty is the place where Cashmere goats are found.
It is 14000 feet above sea level where temperatures are cold and conditions are hence harsh. We are talking about the Himalayan ranges, where cold days experience -40 degrees C as winter arrives. It is this time when the Cashmere bearing goats grow a layer of warm hair over their bodies. This hair type is super delicate, yet exceptionally warm, enough to help the goats survive the gelid winter season. It is this hair that helps goats bear the tough winter season, and it remains only till these months last.
As soon as summer arrives, the hair becomes intolerable. The same hair that protected the goat’s body in winter, now makes it uncomfortable in summer. The herders realise this fact, as they see that the goats are rubbing their bodies against rough surfaces. Hence they professionally get the rest of the wool combed off from the goats’ bodies, leaving them free and more or less unloaded. The wool is collected in small pouches and sent for processing
Processing of Cashmere
The main reason for Cashmere being pricey, luxurious and the most sought-after accessory in the world is its process. A meticulous process of converting raw, dishevelled and unkempt wool into lavish and graceful shawls and scarves takes months or years to complete. It is this detail-oriented and heedfully carried out process that makes Cashmere the luxury that it is. Rare, unique and patient demanding yet painstaking at times, Cashmere processing is a joy to watch and wearing the same is an honour to experience.
The processing of Cashmere starts from cleaning the raw wool. It is filled with dirt, dust, wastes and debris, and therefore needs thorough cleaning. This is done by a group of women, spending a few days doing so. Cashmere fibre is separated one by one and the task is immensely tedious. Clean Cashmere is passed on to spinners, who start another challenge - spinning lumps of clean fibre.
Spinning the fibre
Start of the process - spinning the fibre which is helter-skelter till now. Women, from the remotest corners, come together and sit in groups, spinning the fibre for months together. The fibre is mounted over a manual spinning wheel which turns the raw Cashmere to fine fibre threads. These threads are just 12 to 16 microns in thickness, which makes them barely visible to the naked eye (when seen from distance).
Hand spinning such fine threads is simply a skill, and comes from decades of experience that these women have.
Weaving the fibre
Weaving the fibre, too, is a difficult task, and it is the most skillful individuals who perform this yet another task in the making of Cashmere fabric. The transformation of fibre to fabric is beautiful, and the world has been amazed by the same.
For weaving the Cashmere fibre, which is just out of the spinning process, one has to mount it on a handloom. Handlooms are traditional, and help weavers to weave fibres into shawls, scarves, or just plain fabrics. The fibre from the spinning wheel is stretched manually and then put onto the handloom. One or two individuals sit on the handloom, and in 3 to 4 days convert fibre to fabric. Handlooms take special care that the fibre isn't torn or damaged in any way. It is exactly as gentle to the fabric as the spinning wheel is to the fibre.
It is after 3 to 4 days that a Cashmere shawl is complete. The average length of this shawl is 200 cm and the breath is 100 cm. Post weaving the shawls is sent for other finishing processes.
Smoothening, Embroidery, Washing and Packaging:
Post weaving, the fabric is still incomplete and needs some finishing touches before it reaches its takers. The shawl/scarf is taken to another set of artisans, who soften its edges, smoothen its base, and pick any foreign fibres from its surface. If the shawl is to be embroidered, it is handed over to another immensely proficient set of artisans, who embroider it. Based on the quantity of embroidery motifs to be done on the shawl or scarf, the work may take a few months or a few years (Kani Jamawar, Sozni Jamawar and more).
Post the finishing of shawls or scarves, they are sent for washing. The washing isn't done in chemical based detergents and soaps but natural soaps and spring water. Washermen for Cashmere are different from commercial laundry washers. It is done manually. The washermen take the products to spring water sources, and wash it with their own hands with an organic soap. Cashmere fabric is air dried and as soon as it dries, it is brought indoors and ironed in the most crisp way over a mechanical roller iron. The shawl is then properly packed and sent for sale.
This is the process which Cashmere shawls have to go through. It takes days, and at times years. But the final result is simply a masterpiece.
Does Cashmere Shrink?
Since Cashmere is one of the most pricey as well as sought after luxury for all women who know about it, damaging the same is nothing less than a nightmare. For this reason, if an individual damages a Cashmere scarf or shawl, he/she should know about the reason as well as the remedies.
One of the most common problems that customers face when dealing with Cashmere is the shrinking of the fabric. At times, if you tend to wash your Cashmere irresponsibly, your precious wrap may shrink or get disfigured. It usually happens when you either wash it in hot water, or maybe use dryers to dry it, or any other mistake that you never knew would cost you a lot. But before you throw the Cashmere out of your wardrobe, or donate it to a thrift store, there might be a chance of saving it. The following pro tips we are going to share with you work best on shrunk natural fibres. Synthetic fibre does not respond to these techniques, and if by chance synthetics shrink, it is nearly impossible for them to return back to their original position.
Here is a guide that tells you the reasons why your Cashmere might have shrunk and how you can restore it to its original form.
Cashmere is considered the ultimate luxury. Handcrafted for months together out of rare goat wool, Cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep wool, yet extremely lightweight. With such a high-end product in your hand, you have got to be extra careful in order to deal with it. Proper washing, drying, and storing should be a child’s play for you if you own a piece.
There are mainly two reasons for Cashmere to shrink. First is the structure. Cashmere is animal hair, and all wool fabrics are sensitive to high heat and moisture. Hence if your high end, luxury shawl/scarf has been in direct contact with heat or moisture, it is bound to face shrinking. Secondly, careless washing or drying will definitely leave a scar on your scarf. If you wash your Cashmere at home with hot water, there are high chances its quality will deteriorate or it will shrink. Hence, immense care has to be taken when handling Cashmere. Here are more details why your Cashmere might have shrunk.
More reason for shrinking of Cashmere
Cashmere is delicate. So the first reason that it can shrink is washing it in hot water. Similar to all wool fabrics, Cashmere too is inherently sensitive to high-heat and moisture.
Did you wash your wrap in a washing machine? If you haven't set the temperature of the washing machine to cold, and not set it to a “hand wash” setting, then you have done a blunder. It will definitely shrink.
Ironing your Cashmere wraps directly can also be a reason they shrink. If you directly iron a semi wet Cashmere wrap, there are high chances of it either shrinking or pilling.
The worst method to dry it is to use dryers. If at all you have used a dryer to dry your shawl or wrap, then be ready to look for methods to unshrink it.
Did you use a harsh detergent to wash your Cashmere? That was a disaster. It is delicate, and for this reason, markets are filled with Cashmere shampoos. If you are short of one, use a baby shampoo or conditioner instead. Avoid detergents that you use for normal laundry.
Can you save a shrunken wrap?
Well, the good news is, yes. You can unshrink your Cashmere. But there is again a condition. If your Cashmere has been damaged to a level that it is felted, then the reversal is not possible. Again, check if the shrunk Cashmere has any stretch left. If there is, then celebrate, as it can be stretched and unshrunk again.
How to Unshrink Cashmere?
Rolling the towel to squeeze and absorb the water
To save your precious shawl or wrap, you need several household items: a large tub, mild shampoo or fabric softener, weights, or clothespins which can hold the Cashmere tightly.
Fill the large tub with lukewarm water
Pour in the fabric softener or the baby shampoo or any of the alternatives you are using.
Soak the wrap or sweater into this mixture for two hours till it becomes stretchy.
After 2 hours, take the wrap or sweater out and do not rinse it yet.
Squeeze all the extra water out, without wringing the product.
Lay the wrap on a flat surface and stretch the edges as long as it comes to its original size.
Place weights on them or pin the edges with the surface underneath to keep the wrap in a stretched position.
Leave it like this for an hour to start with, and check if it has regained its original state. If not, leave it again for as long as it gains its actual size.
As soon as the wrap or sweater retains its original size, rinse it with cold water, and lay out flat on a towel.
Roll the towel to squeeze and absorb the extra amount of water.
Unroll the wet towel now, and replace it with a dry towel.
Place the wrap/shawl flat on the dry towel and let it rest there till it air dries.
As soon as it is completely dry, your precious piece will have regained its actual state.
Precautions to be taken in future
Washing
Always handwash Cashmere. Fill a tub with lukewarm water and Cashmere shampoo. Soak your Cashmere in it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, squeeze the water out and rinse it with cold water.
If washing in a washing machine, make sure to use the cold water setting, and handwash from the settings. Quickly take your Cashmere out of it as soon as the wash cycle ends.
Drying
Do not put your Cashmere in dryers. It is best to let your Cashmere air dry naturally. Do not hang your wraps as they may become deformed. Do not dry them in direct sunlight.
The best way to dry Cashmere shawls and scarves is rolling them in between two clean and dry towels. Place two dry, clean towels under and over the scarf and roll them. This will squeeze extra water from it. Then lay the scarf on another flat surface and let it air dry, even if it takes a few days.
Storing
Store your Cashmere in a tissue paper bag, and not in plastic bags. Plastic tends to attract mixture which can be detrimental for these precious products. Place the wrapped Cashmere on a clean, dry shelf in your wardrobe. Place mothballs around the area if needed.
Wash the Cashmere wrap/shawl once every season. Too much washing too can prove inimical to this luxury product.
With the proper care and concern, you can again make your Cashmere products as fresh as new.
A large number of Cashmere fans keep asking questions about the shrinking of Cashmere. We have incorporated several to make it easy to understand.
Question 1: Does hand washing Cashmere Shrink it?
Answer: This answer comes from our fabric experts. If washed properly, hand washing is the best alternative when it comes to cleaning Cashmere. Washing it in lukewarm water, rinsing it gently, and air drying it helps to clean Cashmere without any compromise to the fibre. If washed with hot water, or if rinsed harshly, Cashmere can shrink or lose its shape forever.
Question 2: Does Cashmere shrink in the dryer?
Answer: Dryers operate by using hot air to dry out washed clothes. This does dry clothes properly, but that is not how Cashmere (or other wools) has to be dried. Any direct contact to heat will definitely shrink your Cashmere scarves, shawls and sweaters. If you want the long life of your Cashmere, you have to air dry it. This is the best way to dry it, even if it means keeping it in the air for a few days.
Question 3: Does Cashmere shrink when it is dry cleaned?
Answer: No, dry cleaning does not shrink Cashmere. In fact, some Cashmere scarves do mention on their labels to only dry clean them. Hence, dry cleaning will be the last reason that your Cashmere scarf shrunk in the process.
If, in case, after sending your Cashmere for dry cleaning, you feel it has shrunk, then the cleaner is to be blamed. Maybe the one cleaning your precious scarf wasn't knowledgeable enough, or maybe he used the wrong cleaning process or agent. Nevertheless, dry cleaning is the safest method as far as cleaning Cashmere is concerned.
Question 4: Does Cashmere shrink over time?
Answer: If washed and stored properly, Cashmere will never shrink. As a matter of fact, Cashmere is believed to acquire an even more graceful look as it ages.
At times, customers use incorrect ways and methods of washing, drying or storing Cashmere scarves. For example, one might wash the scarf in hot water, or hang it for drying or so. All these methods tend to damage the fibre, and hence cause Cashmere to shrink. The shrinking is almost immediate in some of these cases.
If, however, proper precaution and care is taken of the Cashmere, it will survive for a lifetime. Hand washing Cashmere with lukewarm water, air drying it, and storing it properly in a moisture free space, away from sunlight, will eventually be very fruitful for the Cashmere user.
Question 5: Can the shrinking of Cashmere be undone?
Answer: Yes it can. If by chance your Cashmere scarf or shawl (or an outfit) has been shrunk, there are ways to undo so. One just has to prepare a large wash basin and fill it with water (not too cold, not too hot). Then pour Cashmere shampoo in it and soak Cashmere in it for at least 2 hours. The water is to be thrown away after 2 hours after rinsing the scarf gently.
Now, spread the scarf on a flat surface and start pulling the edges (gently) with your hands. You can ask for someone’s help if you want. After stretching the scarf manually, hold it for sometime in the same position. You can place weights on it for an easy approach.
Conclusion.
If a wearer asks "Does Cashmere shrink, we know they are heartbroken already. After all, it is a product of premium price and luxury. After spending thousands of dollars for a scarf and wearing it to the most extravagant events, one might lose all hope of recovering a damaged Cashmere. But there are techniques to win these luxury pieces back. Unshrinking Cashmere is possible. But as they say, prevention is better than cure. Always check the label of your Cashmere scarf. This will be the first warning that the seller is giving the wearer.
Another precautions that the wearer has to take is washing the Cashmere in cold water. Hot water damages the fibre. Washing, drying and storing have to be extra careful, as these three will determine the life of a Cashmere scarf.
We are all in love with Cashmere, and hence do not want these luxury pieces to lose their natural sheen and elegance. so, we would love our Cashmere shawls or scarves to be as elegant as the 18th century ones, which swooned queens off their feet. We, too, would love to look as elegant as Empress Josephine did when she wore a Kashmiri Kani shawl that her husband gifted her. And we want them for so many years to come. But with long life comes super cautious handling.
Cashmere is considered the epitome of luxury. This ultra-soft fibre is the downy undercoat of the mountain goats of China, Mongolia, etc. The finest cashmere is collected from the Ladakhi Changthangi goat, which is found 14000 feet above sea level. It is collected in its purest state, processed, and transformed into accessories and apparel which feel like the most luxurious thing that we likely have encountered. With owning one such luxury, comes the responsibility of cashmere care.
We, at Pashmina.com, have manually gotten these plush fibres from the Himalayan Changthangi goats collected, sorted, cleaned, processed, and transformed into beautiful wraps. Our collection of luxurious shawls, stoles, scarves, and hijabs is both warm and comfortable as well as stylish and in vogue. We take special care to offer only the purest form of Cashmere wraps, which look as luxurious after years of use as they look now.
With owning such a precious piece of clothing or accessory comes the responsibility to care for it. Cashmere is one such fabric that needs special attention and careful use. Be it wearing, washing, or storing it, one has to take all the necessary precautions while dealing with this luxury wrap, so that its life is extended to a lifetime. In case this delicate treasure is dealt with irresponsibly, it might not last for even a year, and wither further with time. Cashmere care is important if you want your wrap to sustain a lifetime.
Hence we today guide you on how to wash, dry, and store cashmere fabric without paying tens of trips to the laundry nearby. We asked our fabric pros for their expertise. Follow these pointers to keep your cherished wraps and sweaters looking brand new for years to come
Washing Cashmere at Home
Whatever is worn is bound to get dirty. Hence your precious Cashmere too needs cleaning, even if just once a year.
Although the best option to clean Cashmere is to get it dry cleaned. But if that is not available or you are in a hurry to wash it, here are some expert tips to wash it at home.
Fill a large tub with tepid water
Pour into it a good quality Cashmere shampoo, or a mild baby shampoo.
Mix this concoction well.
Soak your wrap/sweater into this mixture, and give it a whirl when you start
After 30 minutes of soaking, make a ball shape of the wrap and squeeze all the water out
Do not wring the fabric or it will get deformed for life.
Rinse it in cold water. Again make a ball, and squeeze the clean water out.
Machine washing a Cashmere
Machine washing a cashmere with handwash setting
It so happens sometimes that we are running out of time, and need to do a lot of chores other than washing Cashmere fabrics. Washing machines can help, but with a lot of precautions and care.
Change the setting of your washing machine and keep it at the most gentle cycle. Use a cold water setting, and use a Cashmere shampoo. Start the machine on the ‘hand wash’ setting.
As soon as the cycle stops, immediately take the wrap out to prevent wrinkles.
Do not tumble dry your Cashmere, or it will shrink or pill
It is better that you wash Cashmere in washing machines after covering them in mesh bags.
Cashmere hates any harsh treatment, and that is what dryers do. Instead dry your precious piece naturally.
Lay a clean, dry towel flat on the ground
Lay your wrap flat over it
Roll the towel, so that it squeezes and absorbs extra water
Open the rolled towel, and replace it with a new dry towel
Let the wrap remain flat on it for a few days, till it gets completely air-dried.
Storing a Cashmere wrap
The way you store your Cashmere decides whether it will survive for the next season or not. Therefore, proper cashmere care should be taken about storing Cashmere. Here are some pro tips about storing your precious fabric.
Always fold your Cashmere. Do not hang it. Hanging deforms the entire shape of the delicate fabric.
Let Cedar Chips or mothballs accompany your stored Cashmere to ward off moth infestation
Wrap your dear garment or accessory in such a way that no two layers touch each other. The best way to store it is by wrapping it in tissue paper and passing the same between any two layers which can rub against each other. This reduces Pilling too.
Make sure that the place where you are storing your wrap is dry, disinfected, and clean.
Do not pile many Cashmere products on top of each other. This too can cause pilling, as friction occurs between their exteriors.
Wash your Cashmere products before you store them. Oils from your body, which the sweater or wrap might have absorbed, will devastate your adored piece.
Save your wrap from Shrinking
You would never want this highly invested piece of fabric reduced in size. Proper care during its wash and drying can guarantee its long life, without shrinkage. Here are some tips to prevent shrinkage in Cashmere
Always wash Cashmere in cold or lukewarm water. If it encounters hot water, it will definitely shrink.
Do not tumble dry your Cashmere. Dryers tend to harm this natural fabric, and as a result, the entire product reduces in size.
Spot treatment for Stains
If in case, your Cashmere sweater or wrap gets a stain, you do not need to wash the entire shawl. Most marks completely disappear by blotting them with baby shampoo or the Cashmere shampoo itself. Rinse the wrap later in cold water, and lay it flat to dry.
How to prevent pilling of Cashmere
Pilling usually occurs when the surface of Cashmere repeatedly touches itself or other surfaces. This vigorous friction of the delicate fibre causes tiny fibres to the coil with each other, which results in the appearance of small fuzzy fibre balls. This is called bobbling or pilling.
To prevent Cashmere from pilling, deal with it gently. Do not pile Cashmere products over each other. Use tissue paper in between consecutive layers when storing it. If pilling still occurs, use lint removers or fabric shavers to remove them. Your used product will be smooth and fresh as if new. Hence, cashmere care is important if you want it to sustain a lifetime
Luxury isn't only what we wear. Accessorizing in fine products is also being luxury loving. And we never believe that living a luxurious life isn't very good in the long run. After all, everyone deserves pampering, and what is more pampering than wearing the best accessories of all times. We found something that is timeless, finest and of course higher on the price scale. Cashmere scarves
Cashmere scarves come from Kashmir, and are a luxury in itself. These scarves are believed to have come into existence in the 15th century when a Persian traveler discovered them. The finesse of Cashmere wool, the softness and feathery light weight of this luxury animal hair surprised the traveler, who later introduced the same in the Royal courts of the time. This is when the processing of fine Cashmere wool took pace, and factories were set up to transform wool into shawls, scarves and wraps. Since then, there has been no turning back, and Cashmere scarves have managed to swoon individuals around the world with their luxurious opulence and poise.
Let us dig deep into the origin of Cashmere, and know more about this plush fibre that makes an unforgettable impression on even those who have just one look at it.
What is Cashmere?
Ever went shopping for winter wraps, and accidentally touched the softest thing on earth? There is a high chance that you have had the first experience with Cashmere. Cashmere scarves are soft, fine, lightweight, and hence a luxury to own. But the huge price tags often seem worrisome for several individuals who might not know what Cashmere is.
Cashmere is often called Cashmere wool. But surprisingly it is not wool. It is the hair of a rare goat. These goats grow this exceptionally soft and fine fleece as a defense mechanism against freezing cold. But they grow such a small quantity of the same that 2 or 3 goats have to be combed to get fibre for a single wrap. This, and many more reasons to justify the high prices of Cashmere. Even though its patrons have never cared about its high price, we still have defense for its unexpected price tags. Let's know more about this luxury fibre.
Origin of Cashmere Scarves
The term Cashmere is an anglicization of Kashmir, the hometown of Cashmere, coined by Europeans. It was first discovered by Shah E Hamdan, a Sufi saint, who visited the valet from Persia. As he realized the luxurious texture and feel of Cashmere, he ordered socks to be made out of this wool type. This pair of exceptionally plush socks was gifted to the then king Zain ul Abideen, who being highly impressed ordered manufacturing units to be established for the processing of raw Cashmere.
As Cashmere scarves from Kashmir gained prominence, it was shortly exported to Europe, especially France and Scotland. Craftsmen in these countries later came up with their own version of Cashmere products. Yet their wealthier population still ordered wraps from Kashmir, even if it meant paying heavy prices. Upper-class British women prized the fabric for its lightweight texture and subtle warmth. (Pure Cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep’s wool, despite being a lot lighter than the same).
It is believed that from the 1500s to the early 1900s, Iranian and Indian kings and emperors used Cashmere scarves in their religious ceremonies. If a ruler presented a Cashmere wrap to another, it would mean acceptance of a condition and established a hierarchy between the giver and the receiver.
Where do Cashmere goats live?
Changthangi goats in Ladakh
Changthangi goat is a medium-sized domestic goat breed. It is raised for its wool production. These are most often white in colour but also seen in black, gray, ash, or brown. Changthangi goats have large curved horns and long coats. They are recognized by short and straight ears and the thick undercoat that helps them survive the cold.
These goats are found in China, Mongolia, Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, and the Changthang valley of Ladakh. The finest Cashmere is the one found in Ladakhi goats, also known as Changthangi goat. It is used to make Kashmiri Pashmina shawls.
White is the most prevalent colour as far as the Cashmere goats are concerned. But their shades may vary. Female goats are around 30 kgs in weight, whereas males are 30 kgs in just 3 years. The goats give just 150-250 grams of Cashmere per year, making the fire rarer. It takes the wool from 3 to 4 goats to prepare one Pashmina shawl.
Cashmere goats are alert and cautious, not placid and lazy. Their temperament befits their lifestyle, where there is a risk of predation often.
Inhospitable Conditions of Ladakh
Rearing animals in the plateau of Changthang is not an easy task. The region offers extremely inhospitable conditions, where even the acquisition of basic essentials is a challenge. For centuries, the nomadic shepherds have been living there, moving their animals from one place to the other every few months, looking for fresh grazing pastures. Yet now, even this life is being challenged by climate change as well as fake Cashmere scarves exports from China, which has made life more complicated for these people, who just need basic essentials to survive
The most asked question to our fabric experts is "Why is Cashmere Expensive"? Well, Cashmere is expensive, and we feel rightful so. The Changpa tribe makes sure that the goats gently get combed during the spring moulting season. Later the collected undercoat is sorted manually and pure is separated from impure wool as well as dirt and dust. A goat produces merely 150 grams, and processing these 150 grams is a painstaking activity. It takes a few months to a year for the most highly skilled artisans to work over handlooms for preparing a single wrap. These wraps are then exported to countries all over the world and sold in hundreds to thousands of dollars. This makes Cashmere expensive, as well as one of the most demanded fabrics around the world. Here are a few more reasons which show why Cashmere scarves are expensive.
Cashmere is the king of fibres
The chilling cold in the Changthang region triggers the growth of Cashmere over the body of the goat. The wool hence grown is super soft, thin, lightweight yet exceptionally warm and cozy (when hand woven into a fabric). It is considered the king of fibres and this has been so for centuries. The diameter of one strand of Cashmere is just 12 to 16 microns. Being so fine doesn’t stop it from being one of the warmest materials on the earth and 8 times warmer than the sheep’s wool). Cashmere scarves hence made are the most luxurious wraps on earth.
How is Cashmere collected?
Weaving cashmere in to Pashmina shawls
From the way it is manually acquired to the completion of a Cashmere scarf , every process is immensely labour intensive in Cashmere production. Raw wool is collected from the mountain ranges as soon as Spring sets. The goat is in its moulting period, and hence sheds a portion of its wool. This wool, spread all over the region as well as the portion still stuck to its body, is collected and cleaned. It is sent for processing, where it meets spinners and weavers to produce a luxury fabric. Every step is ethical, and there is no animal cruelty associated with wool collection.
There would be no Cashmere production in the world if it wasn't for the meticulous efforts of its craftsmen in Kashmir. From cleaning to spinning to weaving and embroidery, every single process is manual in the making of the world-famous Kashmiri Pashmina shawls. Cleaning takes 3 to 4 days, and then spinning takes a few months. Weaving takes another few days, and then embroidery might even take years to complete. All this time local artisans just use their skill and decades-old experience to craft masterpieces.
The shawl takes inspiration from Mughal courts where it is believed the Emperor Akbar owned a huge collection of such shawls - as mentioned in Ain E Akbari
Cashmere is timeless. A Cashmere scarf which is 30 years old looks as elegant as a fresh piece. This owes to the manual labour that is put into it, and the regal demeanour that Cashmere scarves exhibit. It was the timelessness of Cashmere scarves that made Empress Josephine an admirer of these and order a few hundred wraps in her life.
Rare, Limited Production of wool for making Cashmere scarves
The wool from Cashmere goats is acquired in the Spring and Summer seasons and the sale has to start in winter. Because the moulting is season-defined, manufacturers have to wait for an entire year to receive the raw wool in order to start preparing Pashmina shawls or Cashmere scarves. This limited production makes it rarer and hence valuable.
One of the reasons men and women alike love Cashmere scarves is the fact that these are exceptionally warm yet feathery light. When compared to the level of comfort and warmth Cashmere scarves give, one expects them to be thick and heavy. But to their surprise, a full length scarf is barely 400 grams! This means it is as lightweight as perhaps a large silk shawl. For this reason, Cashmere scarves are the first accessories that are chosen for travel as its light weighted nature helps make travel easier.
Cashmere vs Pashmina
Often the wearers of Cashmere scarves are confused between the terms Cashmere and Pashmina. The reason is that the finest Cashmere is made in Kashmir, but in Kashmir mostly individuals call them Pashmina shawls or scarves. So what is the reason behind this clash in nomenclature, lets find out.
Cashmere is the term used to define the fine hair that grows on the body of the Ladakhi goat. The wool was discovered in the 14th century by a Sufi saint - Mir Syed Ali Hamdani. Pashmina, on the other hand, is the art of transforming this fine wool to luxury wraps, shawls and scarves. But in Kashmir, the term Cashmere is used synonymously with the term Pashmina, hence making it difficult for a few customers to understand. The term Pashmina is only used in Kashmir, and India. Rest of the world knows these luxury accessories as Cashmere.
Are Cashmere scarves worth being Expensive?
As mentioned earlier, there are a several reasons why Cashmere scarves are expensive. The reasons are absolutely unique, and hence Cashmere scarves are the most pricey when compared to their counterparts. Many believe that these luxury accessories aren't worth the price. But when we researched about their acquisition, making and quality of the final products, we realized they deserve all the attention they receive.
Acquiring Cashmere is itself a challenge. Cashmere goats are found at the Himalayan ranges that lie over 15000 feet above sea level. The temperature is harsh and herders live a difficult life which has challenges every single day. In these harsh conditions, herders manage to rare the goats and acquire Cashmere wool from them. The wool is pretty rare, and one goat produces a meagre 150 grams. The wool is cleaned then, and sent for processing
The processing of Cashmere wool is yet another challenge. It take weeks, months or even years to process just one scarf made of Cashmere. It all starts from cleaning the Cashmere wool which is handspun post cleaning. Hand spinning takes immense labour work where labourers sit at one place for long times and keep spinning the lumps of wool, transforming them to fibre. This fibre is later hand woven, manually, and fine, lightweight and high quality fabric is hence produced.
From the start to the end, Cashmere scarf making is sustainable. Sustainability, in addition to the other qualities, make Cashmere scarves expensive, and rightly so. Solid scarves are pretty affordable, but densely embroidered scarves are a lot expensive. High price comes from high quality, and no one ever denies it. Hence, most of the takers agree to the high price, and most of the times consider it as an investment.
Also known as the “diamond fibre” or the “king of fibres”, Cashmere has been prized for its smooth touch, immense softness and extraordinary warmth since its inception. The very first documentation of the use of this fine wool dates back to the 14th century. In Kashmir, Cashmere was discovered accidentally in the 16th century by a Persian saint and scholar. In just a few years, Europeans came to know about this luxury fibre, and trade started between the valley and the West. Cashmere gained prominence amongst kings, Emperors, queens and wealthy noblemen and aristocrats in 18th century Britain and France. Cashmere was rare and pricey, and only the affluent could afford it. But is cashmere vegan?
Today, the destruction of fast fashion has made Cashmere similar to any other wool category by blending it with sheep wool, silk, or nylon. Now Cashmere is more affordable, but there is still something concerning people about its contribution to animal cruelty
What is Veganism?
Veganism, or the state of being vegan, is a modern stance against animal oppression and cruelty. People who are vegans do not use any of the products associated with animals. Be it food, clothing, researches, or entertainment, vegans avoid animal exploitation as much as they can.
This means that vegan ideology followers eat plant-based foods and would not prefer animal products like chicken, meat, etc. Similarly, vegans do not wear wool, snake leather, suede, or other materials that come from animals. This would mean that vegans do not wear Cashmere, since it is an animal fibre. Vegans believe that any kind of wool associated with cruelty to animals is better to be avoided. Hence, there is no term as Vegan Cashmere.
Vegetarians do not eat animals, but vegans do not even use animal products. This is the core difference between vegans and vegetarians. Vegetarians do not kill animals for the purpose of eating but may eat products that come from them (such as dairy and eggs).
Veganism can be called a much stricter form of vegetarianism. Vegans tend to be really passionate about animals. This category of individuals does not wear leather or suede as these are made from animal skin. They also avoid the fabrics that are made from animal byproducts, like silk and wool, mainly for the reason that animals are harmed in the making of these. Vegans look for cosmetics that are cruelty-free in their making. As such, they choose lipstick and foundation which are animal fat-free, nail treatments that are gelatin free, makeup removers that are lanolin-free, and similarly every type of product that doesn't contain any animal byproduct
Vegans do not support any form of animal exploitation. Hence they do not visit zoos or aquariums or take part in dog or horse racing. They believe that a better alternative is visiting as well as supporting animal sanctuaries that provide safe homes for rescued animals
Is Cashmere Vegan?
To decide whether Cashmere is vegan or not, we need to check its source. Let's find out what Cashmere is and where does it come from, and if there is a term called Vegan Cashmere.
What is Cashmere?
Changthangi goats in Ladakh
Cashmere is the fine undercoat of a rare goat species, which is found in parts of China, Mongolia, Nepal, Iran, Iraq, and India. The Ladakh region of Kashmir, India, produces the finest quality of cashmere in the world. The goat on which Cashmere grows is called Changthangi goat which grows a fine, warm fleece as a down fibre in winter to survive the extreme temperature (which goes down to minus 50 degrees). The wool protects its body from the freezing weather conditions until summer comes. In the summer season, the same wool makes the goat extremely uncomfortable and it becomes unbearable for the goat to carry it.
As herders gauge the discomfort of the goat, they, with the help of professionals, comb the wool off the goat's body and make it free to roam again. Some portion of the wool can be found in the surrounding areas which the goat has rubbed itself. This and the one combed off the goat's body are collected and stored for processing.
The most popular use of Cashmere is the making of Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, which are renowned all across the globe. We, at Pashmina.com, bring the exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas made from the finest cashmere from Changthang and handmade in Kashmir.
Professionals gently comb off cashmere on Changthangi goat
While many believe that Cashmere is cruel, it is not. No animal is harmed in the process of acquiring, sourcing, or processing Cashmere. The Changthangi goat is a domestic animal. Hence herders do not need to kill it for Cashmere. It politely lets professionals comb off the wool from its body, as it itself is in dire need of the same. Also, Cashmere is not sheared but gently combed off using specialized combs and tools. Hence the goat isn't even hurt in the process.
Is Cashmere Vegan?
Even though Cashmere isn't cruel at all, this does not account for it to be vegan. Cashmere is not vegan. This is because it is an animal byproduct. Veganism believes in avoiding animal byproducts also, and wool is one of them. Hence Vegans strictly say NO to Cashmere, and claim that the same is cruel, although that is certainly not the case. Hence Vegan Cashmere does not exist.
Why buy Cashmere?
The wrap is soaked in a deep brown over which Kani threads span near the Pallas for a minimal effect
It might sound strange that we as responsible citizens of society and the planet still deal with Cashmere when the grapevine suggests the opposite. But that is not the case. The Cashmere products we deal in are checked exactly from its procurement. It is thoroughly inspected if the Cashmere is traded in winter or summer. Summer traded Cashmere is ethical, as these goats have been shorn in summer itself. The Cashmere which traders trade in winters has been shorn off the goats in winters, hence threatening their lives.
The Cashmere products we bring for you, contribute to slow and sustainable fashion. Our wraps, shawls, and scarves last for more than 20 years. They are made up of Pure Cashmere from Ladakh, and no blending is done during the processing.
Is Cashmere vegan? No. It is an animal byproduct so it cannot be said to be vegan. But the processing of Cashmere is done manually and ethically. As such the weaving and embroidery are done by special artisans, who spend months or years together to prepare one single wrap. No pollution-causing machines are used, and the artisans are paid fairly and timely salaries. As such these underprivileged craftsmen of the valley get encouraged to give proper education to their children and a better life to their families.
When Pashmina was discovered for the very first time in 16th century Kashmir, it was in its purest form. The reason behind purity was that synthetic fibre did not exist. And that machines had not taken over. But as soon as greedy and dishonest traders began dealing with the luxury craft, they introduced machines like power looms into the manufacturing. Power looms need stronger threads and hence strong fibres like nylon would be mixed with Pashmina to be processed by power looms. And the beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina - which was its premium quality and finesse began to be compromised. Pashmina was produced by many regions, but it was only Kashmiri Pashmina that would have international patrons and admirers.
Present Scenario of Kashmiri Pashmina
The present scenario differentiates Kashmiri Pashmina from its counterparts. While there is lesser production of Pashmina from Kashmir, big giants like China have taken over the market. China produces 70 percent of the world's cashmere production, while Mongolia produces 20 percent. The remaining 10% is produced in other Cashmere producing regions like Afghanistan, India, Nepal, the United States of America, and elsewhere.
Based on the types of Cashmere, there are three main breeds that are reared over the Mighty Himalayas in Tibet, Nepal, and Central Asia
Changthangi goats in Ladakh region
Changthangi or Pashmina goat: This is the goat whose undercoat grows Kashmiri Pashmina. It is reared on the Chanthang plateau in Tibet and parts of the Ladakh region
Malra goat: This breed of goats comes from the Kargil area of Kashmir
Chegu goat: Cashmere wool comes from the Chegu goat in the Himachal Pradesh in North India
Chyangra goat: The Nepalese Pashmina goat Chyangra is reared for its Cashmere wool.
Out of all these production centres, it is the Kashmiri Pashmina that is considered the best and the finest. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our exquisite collection of handcrafted Pashminas from this rare cashmere goat species of Kashmir. On 5 August 2013, Kashmiri Pashmina was given the Geographical Indication (GI) as an authenticity certification. It is a mark corresponding to a specific geographical location or origin.
The Geographical Indication acts as a certification that the product has some unique qualities not found anywhere else, enjoys a certain reputation due to its geographical origin, and is crafted according to traditional methods. And since Kashmir Pashmina is the only Pashmina in the world that uses the traditional Charkha (locally known as the yinder) to spin, and traditional handloom to weave the Pashmina, it is hence the most original of all. For Kashmiri Pashmina, GI mark means it is
Hand Spun
Hand Woven
The fibre has a diameter of 12-16 microns
The Geographical Indication has been much helpful for the locals in many ways
GI Pashmina helped with the prosperity of local artisans who work day & night to produce Pashmina using only traditional methods
GI Pashmina helps one to identify fake Kashmiri Pashmina wraps; thus preventing consumers to fall prey to false claims of deceivers.
The king of Wools - Pashmina has to an extent regained its lost glory.
The deception of the Ring Test
Passing through the ring test
Before industrialization and the introduction of cheap and fake copies of the Pashmina from around the world, no one cared about if the piece they have draped is even real. But since the late 19th century, when the European and American dealers started mixing real Pashmina with imitated copies, everyone began to doubt their highly invested Pashminas.
Is my Pashmina shawl original? Have I been cheated? These questions have now for decades haunted patrons of traditional shawl making. It came to the notice of many buyers that to check the genuineness of their Pashmina wraps, one has to pass it through a finger-ring. If it passes, it is an original piece. But little did they have any knowledge about the fallacy of this test.
The Pashmina ring test is not valid. With the invention of fabric softeners, even the roughest of wool can pass through a ring. The ring test was valid for Shahtoosh shawls, but never has the ring test been a parameter for testing the originality of Pashmina.
Where did the ring test come from?
A renowned corporate house featured an advertisement. In the ad, a trader sells Pashmina to women who inform him about their knowledge of an original Pashmina wrap and that he must not try to deceive them. The women in the ad use the ring test itself to check the originality of the piece. The advertisement did not go well with the people of J&K, who very well knew that the ring test is a fallacy. The ad was misleading and proved to be detrimental for the Kashmiri artisans, whose Pashminas were pure but did not pass through a ring.
How to check real Pashmina?
Since the advent of the Geographical Indication (GI) certification, it has become absolutely easy for customers to identify real Pashmina against fake copies. The first method to check if your Pashmina is not fake is looking for a GI tag. It is somewhere around the corners of the shawl. If you find on the Pashmina GI tag, then you are investing in the purest form of the Kashmiri Pashmina scarf. Rest assured that Pashmina, GI marked is the purest of all. If you own a GI Pashmina, you do not need to worry about purity or authentication.
However, if there is no GI tag over the shawl, that doesn't mean that the shawl is not original. If your seller provides you a certificate of quality assurance done by The CDI (Crafts Development Institute) Ministry of Textiles as part of Govt of India that certifies each product, the shawl is still pure and original. Pashmina (GI) holds the top position, as far as purity is concerned.
Testing Your Pashmina
You are sorted if you have to buy a Pashmina now since you know what to check with your seller. But what if you already own a Pashmina? Is it original? Is it pure?
Here is how to find this out
Purity Tests for Pashmina
Soft fibres of Pashmina
There have been certain purity tests for a Pashmina wrap which can be done even at your home. Let's go through them and get our Pashminas checked right after this
The Burn Test
Take a piece from the fringes of your Pashmina wrap and burn it.
Now, check the odor of the burnt piece and the texture of the ashes carefully with your fingertips.
If you get a burnt hair smell, then your piece is most likely to be pure. Since Pashmina is made from real, natural hair, it gives out the smell of the same upon burning.
The burnt part of Pashmina should be matte, quite similar to how it was before.
Weave of the Wrap
Handmade Pashmina Shawl with irregular diamond weave pattern
Hold your Pashmina wrap against a light source so that its weave is visible.
If you see irregularities and nuances in the weave, your Pashmina is most likely original.
That is because a machine-made shawl has perfect and regular weave patterns which isn't the case with a handmade. It is these irregularities that make a Pashmina an heirloom piece.
Too much glow?
If your Pashmina wrap has a shiny surface, then know that it has silk fabric added to it while weaving. Pashmina is a natural goat hair that is matte in its appearance. A little shine is possible as the thread is exceptionally fine, but too much of it shows your product is fake.
It is said that beautiful places carry beautiful things. This doesn't come true more in any other place than Ladakh. It's more like nature has gifted the world with the overwhelming beauty of Ladakh, and gifted Ladakh the overwhelming beauty of heritage Pashmina.
Cashmere is one of the most luxurious and precious wools on earth. It has an extraordinary feel and experience when worn, and is characterized by its soft, fine, and lightweight fibre. It is the process of obtaining it harmlessly from the Himalayan species of goats that makes Cashmere expensive. Since its advent, pure, and high-quality, Cashmere has enjoyed a high status in the eyes of royalty all around the world. But with the introduction of blended variants, Cashmere became affordable for everyone and lost that reverence and holy status that it held in the past
High-end fashion garments, even now, use Cashmere as their stable raw material. For this reason, it is much popular in the west. The reason for its lush and extravagant nature is its heavenly appearance and feel. Unlike other types of wool, Cashmere is not itchy against the skin. On the contrary, it is blissfully soft, smooth, and feathery light.
Where is Cashmere found?
The largest producer of Cashmere is China followed by Mongolia. These two regions make up for 90% of the Cashmere in the world. diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. Several breeds are present in the world viz; Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats. The finest Cashmere is produced in the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir.
We, at Pashmina.com, make Pashminas with the Cashmere sourced from Ladakh that accounts for just 0.75% of the total Cashmere produced in the world. But its fineness, warmth, and luxurious mien exceed all of the other variants. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there is almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.
An exotic species of goat is found in the high mountain ranges of Ladakh, North India. A place called Changthang which lies over 14000 feet above sea level houses this rare species of goat, which is reared by nomadic herders. It is this goat whose wool has been long utilized to craft luxury shawls, scarves, wraps, and other accessories. The goat grows Cashmere as an undercoat over its underbelly, throat, and behind the ears. It is this wool that is painstakingly combed off gently by professionals and herders together. The process is completely ethical and no animal is hurt during the entire process.
Cashmere being gently combed by professionals without causing any harm to the goat
From the Changhthanghi mountain, the beginning of the journey starts. There is the dwelling of rare species of goat called Changra Goats. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. These are mainly herded by the tribe of Changpa. In the Changhthanghi region, the temperature goes to -40°C in winter. Thus, the Changra goats develop an undercoat of thick wool over their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh climate. The wool is thick and soft. It is called Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool of Ladakh is the finest among all the production of Cashmere wool. There are several breeds of goats that produce cashmere wool. But, the finest among all is the Ladakhi Cashmere wool.
Therefore, wool from the goat is collected in the Spring season (around April-May). It is the time when the goat naturally sheds its down coat which allows it to stay cooler during the summer months. This natural process allows the cashmere to be extracted without any harm to the goat. The remaining portion of the wool still attached to the goat’s body is gently combed off and packed to be sent for processing.
A single goat produces 4-6 ounces (around 150 grams) of wool per year. Hence to prepare one Cashmere wrap, wool from 3 to 4 goats is considered enough. This wool is spun into yarns manually, and handwoven into luxury apparel, shawls, scarves, etc.
How is the premium Cashmere Crafted?
Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. Crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is cleaned and soaked. This signifies the outset of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form. The cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to the finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley.
Moreover, the unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. In addition, the Cashmere yarn thus produced confers to the purest and finest yarn of 12 to 16 microns. Thus, the finest Cashmere yarn moves further in the procedure radiating the Art of Pashmina.
Weaving and Designing of the fine Cashmere
After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn into fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn into the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood. The process of weaving is to use Cashmere yarn to create warps and wefts. Thus, producing a whole fine Cashmere fabric.
Therefore, the Cashmere produced is given the required dimensions. Thus, diverse styles like Pashmina Shawls are crafted. After Weaving, the fine Cashmere fabric is given the required dimensions to make it an exquisite accessory for the Pashmina Shawl. There is the process of Dyeing by the dyer in Kashmir to pervade Pashmina Shawls with the tinges of nature. In addition, the Designing begins in Kashmir itself where artisans work manually on each design including patterns, embroideries, embellishments, prints, etc.
Why is Cashmere Expensive?
Cashmere has a number of features that are rare to find and which makes it revered all over the world. Here are some amazing qualities of this luxury fabric and why cashmere is expensive, for which it is cherished by every admirer of slow, responsible, and timeless fashion.
Exceptional Warmth
Changthangi goats survive in the temperature of minus 40 degrees
To withstand a temperature of minus 40 degrees in the cold and arid area of Changthang, the goat naturally grows Cashmere as a down fiber. And with the help of this fine fleece, it survives these grim conditions. That is how warm Cashmere is. This extraordinarily soft wool is believed to be eight times warmer than sheep wool, and three times more insulating. In addition to this, even after being so warm, it is feathery light. The warmth is adequate to provide you comfort in the seasons of coldness. Fine Cashmere is extraordinary wool that has the magical qualities of being the finest yet the warmest. Wearing the Pashmina accessories provide life to the moments of grace by admiring grace as well as protecting from the coldness of the season.
Manual Labour
Artisan weaving on Hand Loom
Cashmere acquisition and processing are all manual. Professionals manually comb the goat to acquire it. Later it is manually cleaned by locals, as well as Kashmiri womenfolk. After cleaning, it is handspun over a manual wooden spinning wheel to transform lumps of wool into yarn. Post this, men hand weave it over traditional handlooms for a few days. If a wrap is to be embroidered, it takes months to years for the completion of those complex designs. At Least a total of 100 artisans pour their heart and soul into one piece of wrap, sweater, or any other Cashmere accessory.
Artisans have been into the craft of Pashmina for ages and they work day and night to craft the luxury of any masterpiece of Pashmina. The hand-spinning, hand-weaving, and hand-designing take up to months and years to craft a single piece of Pashmina. The hand-embroideries, hand embellishments, and hand-woven styles are examples of exquisite craftsmanship. Defining the realm of Kashmir, the artisans have upheave the luxury of Pashmina by their pristine hand-skill.
Fineness of the Fibre
Cashmere is one of the finest and lightweight wool
Cashmere, when spun into yarn, gives extremely fine threads of wool. These threads are just 12-16 microns in diameter, which is one-fourth of human hair. This makes Cashmere one of the finest and most lightweight wool types around the world. The fine yarns are so well developed to be worked upon on the handloom to craft the finesse of the Pashmina collection. Beautifully crafted by the hands of artisans, the accessories gracefully get crafted in the valley of Kashmir.
Empowering Underprivileged communities
As many as 50 families are such whose only source of income is Cashmere processing. This doesn't make Cashmere expensive, but more valued and revered by the local community. Womenfolk as well as menfolk of artisans work daily to ensure the greatness of the Pashmina as a craft of heritage. Defining the beatitude of the hand-skill of the artisans, they revive the beauty of Pashmina but suffer under the hands of low wages and no sustenance. Therefore, pashmina.com not only revives the richness of Pashmina but provides sustenance to the artisan community. The part of the amount of each Pashmina accessory supports the unprivileged community in Kashmir to support the human livelihood there.
Limited production
Cashmere is sourced from Ladakh only once a year, as the goat sheds only in the Spring-Summer season. Hence the producers of Cashmere products are dependent only on the quantity that is exported per year. This makes Cashmere products rare and exclusive with a limited supply and a high demand. The Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps. Thus, the production is limited as well the collection is rare and one-of-a-kind. It is believed that once you get your hands on Cashmere products, it is hard to switch to any other type of wool. All the reasons makes the Cashmere expensive in its own way.
A plush white Pashmina shawl has been hand embroidered in the enthralling charm of Paper Mache embroidery that spans from corner to corner
Pricing of Cashmere does depend on the quality and size of the product. But there are some other factors that determine the price of Cashmere.
Sometimes similar looking products are priced differently. But the price variation isn't necessarily due to the difference in purity. There might be other differences as well
Count: Yarn count is a number indicating the meters of yarn that can be spun per gram. The more yarn-count the thinner, the smoother and more precious is the scarf. This is the reason why Pure Cashmere is more expensive.
Ply of the fibre used: Ply indicates the density of fibre used. Single-ply cashmere wraps would mean that basic thread is used in its single form. Double-ply or two-ply would indicate that fibre is double twisted. Two-ply cashmere wraps are more expensive than single ply, as more fibre is used to craft it
Thickness of the fibre: How thick the fibre also determines the price of Cashmere wraps/shawls. The finer the fibre used, the more expensive the cashmere scarf becomes. In fact, it might be surprising, but it is believed that the finer the Cashmere, the warmer it is.
Once you experience the feel of Cashmere, you will know that the prices are very well deserved. Cashmere deserves all the respect and attention as well as a special place in your luxury wardrobe of winter staples.
Luscious, luxurious, and exceptionally soft, Cashmere is one of those fabrics which one wants to feel more than wear. But many of us did not yet get a chance of doing so. So we take you on the journey of how Cashmere feels, how is it made, and where does it come from.
Where does cashmere come from?
The soft, fine, and luxurious fibre of Cashmere come from a certain species of prized goats. These goats are found in Northern India in a region called Ladakh, where the rare and exotic Changthangi goat lives. It is this goat that grows luxury fine fleece over its body, which is later processed to become Cashmere sweaters, shawls, wraps, scarves, mufflers, socks and other accessories.
Cashmere is processed in Kashmir, and this is the place where Europeans saw it first. From Kashmir, large exports of Cashmere products took place in the 18th to 19th centuries.
Cashmere is combed by specialized tools in the springtime, which is the moulting season for the goats. It is the time when the goat is naturally losing its undercoat. This is raw Cashmere, and it comes from the goat’s belly, the underside of the throat, and behind the ears. Wool is collected in small pouches and it is later cleaned thoroughly to separate guard hair and other dirt attached to it.
Raw cashmere fibre
To meet the high-quality standards that Cashmere is world-famous for, the diameter of the spun yarn has to be 12-16 microns only (a human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns). This wondrous fibre even has the insulating capability, which makes the finished product three times more insulating than sheep wool.
Production of Cashmere
The 90% of cashmere of the world is found in China, Mongolia, and Nepal. Only 10% comes from India and others Asian countries. The finest Cashmere is obtained from the Capra haircuts species of goats found in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, India. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you our collection of luxury Pashminas from this finest Cashmere. The annual yield from one Changthangi goat is roughly 150 grams. This makes the wool quite rare. For a large-sized women’s shawl, (200*100 cms), fleece from at least 3 to 4 goats is required. The same is required for a thin full-sized Cashmere cardigan. A goat that has the capacity to yield higher amounts might be chosen to prepare large sweaters, and if the quality has to be the best, then the goat’s underbelly fibre is chosen.
Perhaps now we know that the high prices of Cashmere are very well deserved. Be it the labour-intensive process of acquiring and processing the raw fiber, the low yield per goat, or the exceptional softness and warmth of the final product, Cashmere is indeed the king of fibres.
Why should we invest in it?
There are so many reasons why we should own at least one Cashmere product in our lifetime. While women might be indifferent to it because of its price, or dubious about its quality, there are plenty of them who are just curious. So we give them some good reasons to buy Cashmere today.
The shawl is handwoven by expert artisans from the valley in a span of a few years, which makes this the most treasurous of all the offerings
It is warmer than wool
Why invest in a thick woolen scarf or sweater, when you can be more comfortable with a lightweight, fine Cashmere one. Yes, Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep wool, and lighter in weight too. This makes it the first preference while shopping for winter.
It is breathable
Despite being one of the warmest products in the world, Cashmere is quite breathable. One would never feel too hot in a Cashmere product, as it has great insulating properties.
Is Cashmere Itchy?
This question surprised us too. When one of our customers asked us “Is Cashmere itchy?”, we were startled, because there is nothing as soft and smooth as Cashmere. As compared to sheep wool, Cashmere is far less itchy.
However, Cashmere is a natural fibre, and some of you can be allergic or sensitive to it. If it is so, you can cover it underneath with cotton or silk layering.
What does it feel like?
Cashmere is exceptionally soft and lightweight
Cashmere has a heavenly feel. It has an exceptional softness and it is lightweight and downy. It gives a person that kind of experience which he/she probably hasn't felt before. Once you wear it, you will forget about all the luxuries the world has.
A Cashmere wrap has to be cared about like a baby. From the way you wear it to its washing, drying, and storing, everything is to be done with proper precaution and care.
As far as washing is concerned it is better to wash this luxury fabric with hands. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and a Cashmere shampoo. If you're short of the same, a mild baby shampoo too will work. Soak the product in for 30 seconds and then rinse with cold water. Do not wring
Roll the towel to absorb the water from cashmere
Drying Cashmere has to be natural. Just put your sweater/ wrap over a dry towel and roll the towel to absorb the water from it. Replace this wet towel with a new dry one, and let the gentle fabric air dry naturally
Storing your valued wrap or scarf again has to be a responsible process. The place where you store your precious piece has to be clean, dry, and disinfected. Do not store it in plastic as plastic helps grow moisture. Instead wrap it in large tissue papers, to keep it dry and safe.
Can a Cashmere Wrap Stretch?
Yes, these wraps can stretch and get disfigured. This is the reason why it should not be wrung after washing. Also, a Cashmere wrap should not be hung from a hanger, as it has more drape than bounce. As such, it does not return to its original form. Instead, it should be stored in a drawer in a folded position, or else hanging will pull it down due to gravity and it will get deformed forever.
If your Cashmere has stretched for some reason, wash it in lukewarm water, reshape it, and dry it flat. There is a possibility that it might regain its original shape.
Concluding, we can say
That is it about the feel and experience that a Cashmere gives you. It comes from the mighty Himalayan ranges to your wardrobes, after treading a painstaking path. Exactly from its procurement to its finish, your luxury product passes through the hands of a hundred craftsmen, who put in their heart and soul into detailing it. It is their love and care that makes it extra special, and worthy of every effort spent to have it.
Handmade Pashmina shawl is a 100% pure product. It is finer, tighter, warmer, and more luxurious than the machine-made Pashmina. Since the diameter of pure Cashmere fibre is 12- 16 microns, it is difficult to spin it by machine. The handmade pashmina products that we, at Pashmina.com, source are woven in the diamond-weave technique. This is similar to weaving a European tapestry. The wefts (horizontals), which form the pattern, do not run right across the fabric. Instead, they are woven back and forth around the warp (vertical) threads. You can spot a machine-made shawl by looking at the fringe base. Owing to its making-in the machine, fake Pashmina has unnaturally straight edges. Hence it becomes a pre requisite to know the difference. Real vs fake Pashmina - how to differentiate.
Woven with the finest, softest goat fleece, a pure Pashmina is a thing of beauty. The best fleece is of a natural cream colour.
Looms of Pashmina
In the real vs. fake Pashmina competition, its all in the way Pashmina is processed. If Pashmina is processed manually, the resulting piece is original and pure. However, if machine is put to work instead of an artisans hands, the result is fake or impure/mixed.
Traditionally, Pashmina is a hand-made product. Its weaving is an art that our artisans have learned through generations. Their precision, attention to detail, and overall layout of designs is a matchless talent that deserves admiration. Clearly, the production of hand-embroidered pure Pashmina shawls and wraps is a slow process. Therefore they're available within a limit, and as a result, handmade pashmina products are comparatively pricy.
Traditional Loom - Handmade Pashmina
Artisans with great skill weaving patterns on the original Pashmina
Loom weaving is an intrinsic part of Kashmir culture. It requires great skill and knowledge to weave intricate patterns on the original Pashmina. Children of traditional loom weavers start learning this art around reaching the age of six or seven years. There is evidence in Indian history implying weaving has held great importance for a substantial amount of time. Weaving is primarily the interlacing of two sets of yarn– warp (length) & weft (width). The equipment that facilitates this interlacing is the loom. Handwoven fabric yields a softer, more comfortable, and durable product because of the human handling of the yarn in the weaving process.
A handmade solid Pashmina shawl takes about 3-4 days to complete. A weaver has to spend at least 8-10 hours on the loom and work continuously to prepare a solid Pashmina wrap. It takes expert skill and utmost meticulous efforts and concentration to develop a pure Pashmina on a handloom. Weavers who work on manual handloom have been doing so for decades. Some weavers have spent 50 years and moreover, the handloom attained masterly skills and have now become experts of the same. It is this craftsmanship and dedication and love of these artisans for the craft of handmade Pashmina that makes these pieces the most sought-after accessories.
Made on a similar structure, it stands to destroy the very basic art that a traditional loom brings forward. It is a mechanical loom powered by a line shaft that produces fake Pashmina shawls and wraps. It takes some 1-2 minutes to complete one solid Pashmina wrap when made overpower loom. Even Though the power looms have increased the production of Pashmina shawls manifold, the genuineness and superiority of the product have been greatly compromised. With the mushrooming of fake products, there is a serious threat to the existence of original Pashmina shawls in Kashmir. It is just handloom which produces Pashmina that are real vs. fake Pashminas produced by power looms.
Machine-made merchandise which is slowly killing the market in the beautiful Kashmir valley
Real Vs. Fake Pashmina
While every seller claims to sell original, authentic Pashmina, identifying real vs fake Pashmina becomes a challenge. For this reason, we recommend buying from authentic sellers and checking the stamp of authenticity before buying a new Pashmina shawl. If however, you already own a Pashmina shawl, there are several tests to identify if they are pure, or not.
Pashmina.com is against machine-made merchandise which is slowly killing the market in the beautiful Kashmir valley. Our endeavor revolves around making the lives of Pashmina artisans better. We are in the industry to endorse their skills, stand for their rights and the art that they create through handlooms.
Pashmina is an art that originates from Kashmir. This art is something that artisans have perfected for centuries now. Processing fine Cashmere to make Pashmina shawls needs hard work, meticulous efforts, and immense patience, and that is what craftsmen display.
What is Pashmina?
Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps, shawls, scarves, and stoles - from fine Cashmere. The finest raw Cashmere comes from Ladakh, and artisans process it in Kashmir, awaiting this gossamer fine wool variant.
The Source of Pashmina: Changthangi Goats
Pashmina, often referred to as "soft gold," originates from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats, a unique breed found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats, also called Pashmina goats, have well-adapted to the harsh, cold climate of the region, where temperatures can drop as low as -40°C. This extreme environment is precisely what allows these goats to produce the incredibly fine and warm undercoat. Artisans later transform the coat into luxurious Pashmina shawls.
The Changthangi goats naturally develop a thick undercoat during the winter months to protect themselves from the freezing temperatures. This undercoat, or “pashm,” is what makes Pashmina so special. The wool fibers are exceptionally fine, measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter, which is about six times finer than human hair. This fineness gives Pashmina its renowned softness, making it highly sought after in the world of luxury textiles.
Every spring, as the weather warms, the goats naturally shed this undercoat. Artisans then carefully comb the fibre out by hand, ensuring that the goats remain unharmed in the process. This ethical and sustainable method of collecting the wool further adds to the value and appeal of authentic Pashmina shawls. Once harvested, the raw Pashmina wool undergoes a meticulous process of cleaning, spinning, and weaving, often done by skilled artisans who have inherited the craft through generations.
History of Pashmina Shawls in Kashmir
In the 16th century, a saint, named Shah E Hamdan, from Persia, traveled to Kashmir for religious preaching. It was him who discovered Raw Cashmere for the first time in Ladakh. Seeing its softness and smooth texture, Shah E Hamdan ordered a few artisans to make a pair of socks out of this wool. The socks was luxurious and hence presented to Zain ul Abideen, the then king of Kashmir. He too was highly impressed so much that he ordered processing units of Cashmere to be set in Kashmir. Additionally,he ordered Persian craftsmen to train locals in spinning and weaving of Kashmir, and hence it all started from this moment. Later people from all over the world visited Kashmir. A major portion of Europeans visited Kashmir regularly, and later Pashmina shawls were exported in bulk to European countries.
The word Pashmina comes from ‘Pashm’. Pashm is a Persian word that literally translates to ‘soft gold’. In Kashmir, Pashmina is the art of transforming soft Cashmere wool into luxury shawls, stoles, or wearable accessories.
What are Pashmina shawls made of?
Raw cashmere
Pashmina shawls come of the finest Cashmere wool which comes from Ladakh. Changthang region of Ladakh hosts an exotic variety of goats, which grow Cashmere as down fibre. Artisans acquire this down fibre in the Summer season and process it to make Pashmina products.
How is Pashmina obtained?
Harvesting cashmere wool is a meticulous and delicate process that requires both skill and patience. The wool comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goats, specifically the Changthangi goats of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats develop a fine, soft undercoat to protect themselves from the harsh winter climates, where temperatures can plummet to extreme lows.
Over the mighty Himalayas, the Capra Hircus goat is found in Changthang, Ladakh. For this reason, it is also called Changthangi goat. The goat can survive at any place in Ladakh. But the ones found over 14000 feet are the ones that survive, as well as grow Cashmere. The growth of this fine and ultra-smooth wool is an adaptive response to the harsh terrain where winter temperature falls to -40 degrees. Raw Cashmere has a unique sheen, and fine fibres are as thin as 12-16 microns in diameter. Note that the human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns, and this makes Cashmere about 1/4th of a human hair!
Harvesting the wool : Spring Season
The process of harvesting cashmere begins in the spring, when the goats naturally start to shed their winter undercoat. This shedding is a natural process that aligns with the warming temperatures, making it the ideal time to collect the wool. Unlike other types of wool that herders obtain by shearing, the same people acquire cashmere by hand-combing the goats. This method is both gentle and efficient. It ensures that only the finest, softest fibers are collected without harming the animals.
Changthangi goat in Ladakh
The finest of Cashmere comes from Changthang, Ladakh where Buddhist nomadic herders (known as Changpas) rear goats. They collect Cashmere by professionally combing the goats in late spring and early summer when goats molt. Herders do not shear goats, but comb them to avoid fiber breakage and to maintain the fibre length.
Once herders harvest the wool, it undergoes a process of cleaning to remove any impurities, followed by spinning and weaving by skilled artisans. The entire process, from harvesting to the final product, reflects the traditional craftsmanship and the deep connection between the herders and their animals, ensuring that cashmere remains a luxurious and highly valued material in the world of fashion.
Processing of Cashmere (Making of Pashmina Shawls)
The art of Pashmina making is an ancient one. But it hardly matters to Kashmiri artisans who have long perfected it. Due to the extremely fragile nature of Cashmere fibre, Kashmiri craftsmen and women have always preferred to use hands while processing it. The strain of a machine would break the fibre, and it would lose its distinctive nature. As soon as Cashmere reaches Srinagar, womenfolk welcome it, and start with its cleaning. They clean the wool by hand, and remove any foreign particle attached to the fibre. Then they place it in a container full of rice powder. This way, it gains more strength and luster.
After three days, workers remove Cashmere from this mixture and clean it thoroughly. Now they send it to craftsmen, who await its arrival for spinning it. Spinners spin the fibre on a wooden spinning wheel called ‘Yinder’ locally. Spinning transforms lumps of wool into fine threads. As long threads come out of the spinning wheel, handloom workers take it and transform them into luxury Pashmina shawls, stoles, hijabs, scarves, and apparel.
Artisan hand embroidering a Pashmina Shawl
It takes around 4-5 days for a two-meter-long shawl to complete. It is still in its solid form. Next, it requires embroidery (if requested). There are mainly three types of embroidery patterns in Pashmina. Fine thread and needle embroidery called Sozni, thick thread and needle embroidery called Papier Mache embroidery, and metallic thread embroidery called Tilla embroidery.
Purity of Pashmina shawls
Unlike hand-spun pashmina, many traders often deal with machine-spun yarn. In such cases, Cashmere is spun in machines. The machine spinning process, however, requires strengthening the yarn by the addition of chemicals. This, in turn, alters the characteristic nature of the fibre. Hence, such kinds of Pashmina shawls aren't as soft and have less life.
Hand spinning the cashmere
Manual processing of Cashmere results in extra fine, smooth and warm Pashmina shawls. Traditional Kashmiri hand-weaving and hand spinning techniques impart a unique texture to the shawls, which sets them visibly apart from machine-made counterparts.
To qualify for a Geographical Indication certification, it is mandatory that Cashmere is hand-woven from hand-spun in Kashmir. A piece of fabric cannot qualify as a pure pashmina if it is machine-made.
Pure Pashmina shawls are expensive. This is because a few women artisans hand spin the Cashmere yarn, and hence it is scarce. In addition to this, the acquisition of fibre is a difficult task and is often short in supply as compared to demand. Moreover, the manual labour which goes into making Pashmina shawls, makes it more valuable than other types of winter wool.
At times, Pashmina shawls with full embroidery designs take 4-5 years to complete.
Comparing Pashmina with Other Types of Wool
When considering luxurious fabrics, Pashmina often stands out for its unparalleled softness, warmth, and elegance. But how does it compare to other types of wool? To answer this, it's essential to understand the unique qualities that Pashmina offers. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of" provides a clue to its distinctiveness. Pashmina shawls come from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goat, native to the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Himalayas. This specific origin and the meticulous process of hand-combing the wool set Pashmina apart from other wools.
Compared to Merino wool, which is famous for its softness, Pashmina is even finer and softer. Merino wool fibers typically measure around 20 microns in diameter, whereas Pashmina fibers can be as fine as 12 to 15 microns. This fineness gives Pashmina its signature smooth texture and makes it much more delicate than Merino, contributing to its luxurious feel.
In contrast to regular sheep’s wool, which is coarser and more commonly used in everyday textiles, Pashmina is far superior in both quality and comfort. Regular wool is typically thicker, ranging from 25 to 30 microns, and can feel rough or itchy against the skin, whereas Pashmina's ultra-fine fibers create a silky, non-irritating touch.
Hence, when asking "What are Pashmina shawls made of," the answer highlights not just the material, but the exceptional qualities that differentiate Pashmina from other types of wool. Indeed, it is a symbol of luxury and timeless elegance.
The Role of Artisans in Crafting Pashmina Shawls
The creation of a Pashmina shawl is not just a process; it's an art form, steeped in centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. When asking, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" one must consider not only the raw material - the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats - but also the skilled hands of the artisans who transform this raw material into exquisite works of art.
Pashmina shawls come from Cashmere wool. Herders painstakingly hand-comb the wool from the underbelly of the goats. However, it is the artisans who elevate this wool into something truly special. Each step, from spinning the wool into fine threads to weaving and embellishing the fabric, requires a high level of skill and patience. These craftspeople, often based in the Kashmir Valley, inherit their techniques through generations, mastering the art of working with this delicate material.
The weaving process is done on traditional handlooms, where artisans meticulously interlace the threads to create the shawl’s fabric. This is a labor-intensive process that can take several days to weeks, depending on the complexity of the design. The true beauty of a Pashmina shawl often lies in its intricate patterns and embroidery, which are also hand-crafted by these skilled artisans. These embellishments, whether simple or elaborate, add a personal touch that machine-made products cannot replicate.
Moreover, the role of the artisan extends beyond technical skill; it is their deep understanding of the material and their cultural heritage that imbues each shawl with its unique character. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" thus encompasses not just the physical components, but the rich tradition, creativity, and craftsmanship of the artisans who bring these shawls to life.
Evolution of Pashmina shawls
Earlier, Pashmina shawls hosted just a few designs. Either Pashmina shawls were hand embroidered, solid, or Kani shawls. But with time, these luxury assets too adapted to modern needs and introduced contemporary patterns into this realm. Chic stripes and checks, Animal prints, abstract patterns, Ombre shades, laced, and Swarovski studded Pashmina shawls too are available today in their purest forms.
People have ever since revered Pashmina as a symbol of luxury and sophistication. And it is not just for the material it comes from, but also for the artistry in its creation. When one asks, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" the answer goes beyond just the fine Cashmere wool from the Changthangi goats of Ladakh; it also encompasses the centuries-old craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail that transform this raw material into a masterpiece.
Pashmina shawls are made of some of the finest and rarest fibers in the world, which are painstakingly hand-combed from the underbelly of the goats. This wool is incredibly soft, lightweight, and warm, making it highly sought after. However, it’s the human element - the skillful hands of the Kashmiri artisans - that truly elevates Pashmina to an art form. The process involves delicate spinning, weaving, and sometimes intricate embroidery, all done by hand. Each shawl can take weeks, even months, to complete, depending on the complexity of the design.
The artisans who create Pashmina shawls are not just weavers; they are artists who bring generations of knowledge and cultural heritage into every piece they craft. The designs often reflect local traditions and motifs, making each shawl a unique representation of the region’s rich history. This level of craftsmanship, combined with the rarity of the material, positions Pashmina in a league of its own, far removed from mass-produced goods.
Caring for Your Pashmina Shawl: Maintenance Tips
Understanding the delicate nature of Pashmina is essential for proper care. This is especially when considering "What are Pashmina shawls made of." These luxurious shawls come from the finest Cashmere wool. Herders source Cashmere from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats in Ladakh. This rare and delicate fiber requires special attention to maintain its softness, warmth, and beauty over time.
To keep your Pashmina shawl in pristine condition, start by handling it with care. Avoid wearing it in situations where it can get stained or snagged, as the fine fibers are prone to damage. When not in use, store your Pashmina in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, which can cause the colors to fade. It’s advisable to fold the shawl neatly and place it in a breathable cotton bag to protect it from dust and moths.
When it comes to cleaning, it’s important to remember what Pashmina shawls are made of. It is the delicate Cashmere wool that one should not subject to harsh chemicals or rough treatment. Hand washing in cold water with a mild detergent is the safest method. Gently agitate the shawl in the water without wringing or twisting it, as this can cause the fibers to stretch or break. Rinse thoroughly and press out excess water by rolling the shawl in a clean towel.
After washing, lay the shawl flat to dry on a clean, dry surface, away from direct heat or sunlight. Never hang your Pashmina to dry, as this can cause it to lose its shape. With proper care, your Pashmina shawl will remain a cherished part of your wardrobe for years to come, retaining the luxurious qualities that make it so special.
Conclusion
In exploring the question, "What are Pashmina shawls made of," we've delved into the intricate journey that transforms raw Cashmere wool into one of the most coveted luxury items in the world. The answer lies not only in the fine fibers sourced from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats but also in the hands of the skilled artisans who painstakingly craft each shawl. This delicate process, rooted in centuries of tradition, ensures that every Pashmina shawl embodies the essence of luxury, warmth, and unparalleled softness.
The uniqueness of Pashmina shawls is defined by their exceptional quality and the artistry involved in their creation. The Cashmere wool, known for its rarity and fineness, is meticulously spun and woven, resulting in a fabric that is both lightweight and incredibly warm. What sets Pashmina apart from other types of wool is not just its origin but the care and craftsmanship that go into every piece, making each shawl a true work of art.
Understanding "What are Pashmina shawls made of" also means appreciating the cultural and historical significance of these shawls. They are more than just fashion accessories; they are symbols of heritage, tradition, and the extraordinary skill of the artisans who bring them to life.
As you wrap yourself in a Pashmina shawl, you’re not just embracing a piece of fabric; you’re embracing centuries of history, craftsmanship, and a legacy that continues to be cherished across the globe. By appreciating the origins and artistry behind Pashmina shawls, you can truly value the luxury and warmth they bring to your wardrobe, making them timeless treasures for generations to come.
It is well known to everyone that Cashmere is one of the priciest materials for wraps, sweaters, and other accessories that we use in winter. Being so, it is often associated with the wealthier section of the society, which raises several questions about it. And hence, some come up with questions like “Is Cashmere worth it?”, “Why should I buy Cashmere?”, and more. So today, we figured out the same. Is Cashmere worth the money we pay for it?
Cashmere is world-famous for being one of the finest and the most luxurious materials that the wool industries have to offer. It provides extraordinary warmth and is remarkably lightweight. Given the fact that Cashmere wraps and sweaters are stylish and graceful, these are often seen on runways during fashion weeks around the world. All this makes this fine wool a perfect candidate for every woman’s wardrobe; even if they have the most expensive luxuries lined up for winter.
What is Cashmere?
Capra Hircus goat in Ladakh
Cashmere is named after ‘Kashmir’, the valley where it originated centuries ago. Despite China and Mongolia being the biggest producers of cashmere in the world, it is the cashmere found growing on the body of the Capra Hircus goat found in Ladakh, eastern Jammu, and Kashmir, that is of the finest quality. We, at Pashmina.com, bring you the luxury collection handcrafted with the finest cashmere from Ladakh. These goats are peculiar and special because of the harshness of the habitat they manage to survive. The extremely cold temperatures force these goats to grow an additional layer of wool over their underbelly and neck. This fine fleece grows under the rest of their coarse hair coat. This extra layer is Cashmere. It helps the goat survive temperatures of -40 degrees in winter.
Cashmere is much finer than sheep’s wool. Pure Cashmere has a diameter of just 12-16 microns (that is 12 millionth of a metre). Note that human hair is around 50 microns on average, which makes Cashmere one-fourth of human hair. Being so fine makes it luxuriously lightweight, and unbelievably soft to touch. Moreover, the fibre has a natural crumple, enabling it to trap more air than other wool types. This makes Cashmere 8 times more insulating than sheep wool
Cashmere clothing or accessories are handcrafted from Pure Cashmere threads. The wool is acquired from the Himalayas and is later processed manually to fabric which is wearable. Here is a step by step process which shows how to transform Cashmere fibre to fabric, and tells us whether it is worth the hype it gets
Acquisition of Cashmere wool
The first and perhaps the most challenging step is the acquisition of Cashmere wool. The reason is that Cashmere is found over 15000 feet in the Himalayan ranges which is more or less cut off from the rest of the world. A special species of goats called the Cashmere goats are the ones which grow the wool as a downfibre. This wool is warm and hence keeps the goats alive during peak winter season which is otherwise harsh enough for any living being to lose life.
It is this extreme winter when the herders of Cashmere goats rear the animals the best they can. As soon as winters leave and the summer season arrives the goats lose a portion of the wool due to discomfort and the other portion left on their bodies is deliberately lost by them by continuous rubbing against coarse surfaces. Anything left on their body is gently combed off by professionals.
Spinning of Cashmere fibre:
Post acquiring the wool that the Cashmere goats sheds, it is collected by the herders. Herders pack it into small pouches and send them for further processing. The first step in processing Cashmere is washing it. Raw wool is full of dirt and dust and needs thorough cleaning before processing. Thread by thread the lumps of wool are washed off any foreign materials, and hence the raw wool is now clean.
Post cleaning, Cashmere is sent for professional spinning. Spinning of the wool involves transforming lumps of wool to fine fibre (threads) which are ideal for further processing. this is done manually on spinning wheels with high precision and concentration. Due to the high skill of the artisans, the fibre hence produced is just 12 to 16 microns thick. This super fine fibre is now sent for weaving to another set of exceptionally skillful artisans.
Weaving of Cashmere:
Post spinning, the gentle and fine threads of Cashmere are passed on to the weavers who weave it with extreme precision and attention to detail. The threads are mounted on to a traditional handloom which sets the threads in warps and wefts with two or more men manually weaving those. After 3 to 4 days of continuous hard work, a fabric is ready. The fabric can be a Cashmere shawl, a Cashmere scarf, wrap or simply large fabric which can be used to further make apparel. This is the complex process of producing Cashmere.
Post Weaving
After weaving a Cashmere wrap or fabric for a few days, it is time for post weaving embellishments. Cashmere shawls can be embroidered, printed, patterned, or adorned in any way as its admirers want. Embroidery patterns are super intricate and take years to complete at times. There are several embroidered shawls which take 4 to 5 years to complete, and their takers actually wait for time. Printing and patterning takes less time when compared to embroidery. Kani weaving takes most of the time, while plain shawls takes the least time to reach their recipients.
The process of producing Cashmere is really complicated, and hence worth the acclaim and the popularity it has received.
Is Cashmere worth it?
To find out if Cashmere is worth the high prices that its patrons pay for it, we need to see certain factors. This is a serious question that every shopper should ask himself before he sets out to shop for a pricey Cashmere wrap. A Cashmere wrap might cost you double, or even triple the price of a wool one, and you have to wonder whether you really need to spend so much.
Let us look at the factors which make this luxury goat hair expensive
1. Demand is more than Production
The traditional treasures of Kashmir is a Cashmere Wrap soaked in shades of love
The demand for Cashmere wraps is more than its supply and production. That is because the supply is low. The goat which grows it produces just 150 grams of wool in a year. This isn't enough for even a small scarf. Hence 3-4 goats have to produce fleece in order to make one Pashmina shawl. These are the same Pashmina shawls that are of the highest demand all over the world when it comes to Kashmiri handicrafts. This makes demand much more than the production of wool. In addition to this, the Cashmere goat is rare, and there aren't too many left now. This rarity factor makes Cashmere more expensive, and the one who wants the product has to pay more to win it.
2. Goats produce limited Hair
As stated earlier, one Cashmere goat produces just a few ounces of hair (around 150 grams), which is a little amount when taking the making of large wraps into consideration. Hence wool from as many as 4 goats would suffice. The limited production of this wool adds up to the expensive factor.
The production of goat hair also depends on the health and natural conditions that the goat lives in. If the goat is healthy and the conditions are according to the goats temperament, the goat produces normal hair. But if the goat falls sick, or migrates to a place where the requirements aren't met, less hair might be produced.
3. How is Cashmere collected?
The making of Cashmere wraps is one of the most intensive processes in the world. From its acquisition from the Ladakh region to the completion of a product, Cashmere wrap-making involves as many as a hundred men and women.
Spinning the cashmere
As soon as the moulting period starts in Spring, the goat sheds its wool, and herders collect it. There is still a portion of the same left on their bodies which some professionals collect. This wool, being full of waste materials and dirt, is manually cleaned in Ladakh, as well as on its arrival to Kashmir. Women, then, take the clean wool for spinning and transform lumps of wool into fine threads on a wooden spinning wheel. Later, these threads are mounted on wooden traditional handlooms, where they are handwoven into wraps, scarves, and other accessories.
If wraps are to be embroidered, that too is done by hands. Sometimes it takes even years to embroider a wrap. Kani shawls takes 4 to 5 years to complete, while plain solid shawls take around a week to reach its customers.
This extreme labour work by artisans who have decades of experience and acquired skill makes Cashmere more expensive. Artisans work painstakingly at times, and at extended periods at times, but always complete their pieces in time with an unmatched look and feel. Artisans work together for months or years together, preparing their masterpieces inch by inch, for the ultimate satisfaction of the wearer.
Unfortunately, this luxury wool is not available all year-round. The moulting season begins in Spring. It is only in the spring and summer season that goats shed their wool, and herders collect and sell it. Hence being available just for a single season in a year makes it rare and worth competing for.
Retailers often have to wait for months together to get their stock of Cashmere wraps. Till then, they are bound to sell stock from the last season. Fortunately, the wool has immense admiration, and its takers actually wait for even years till the completion of their ordered product.
5. The Timeless Treasure
The afterglow of summer sun in the form of Zari embroidery
The best thing about owning a Cashmere is that you can wear it at any time of your life. Even if your wrap is 20 or 25 years old, it never looks withered or shriveled. The more aged a Cashmere wrap is, the more heirloom look it acquires, and the more graceful it looks.
In terms of quality too, Cashmere never ages. In ancient Kashmir, a mother would give her own Pashmina shawl to her daughter on the day of her wedding, as a gift. And the same would look fresh and carry an antique look, which made it more beautiful. This timelessness too accounts for its high price in the market, as customers sometimes take just one Cashmere shawl for an entire lifetime.
Is Cashmere worth it?
When asked if Cashmere is worth the fame and desirability it receives from people all over the world, our fabric experts, designers and customers say Yes, without a doubt. Cashmere is a luxury in itself. And as mentioned above there are so many reasons why Cashmere is the king of fibres. From being the most in demand yet the least in supply, to being the most warm yet lightweight, Cashmere is definitely something worth a buy. The purest and best quality Cashmere comes from Ladakh, North India where nomadic herders rear Changthangi goas. These goats give the best quality Cashmere which makes the finest shawls and scarves.
Pure Cashmere is worth every penny spent on it, all the time spent looking for it, and all the attention paid to its buying and styling.
An extraordinary warmth, the feathery light weight, and the versatility of this luxury fibre made us realize that the high prices of Cashmere are well deserved. Being 8 times warmer than wool, featuring the decades old skill of artisans, and one piece taking even 4 years to complete would indeed deserve a high price to maintain its value, as well as to pay homage to the glorious art forms of India.