Owning a cashmere scarf has always been considered a matter of pride. Especially since it was first patronized by the European nobility. The opulence, luxury, and quality of a women's Cashmere scarf are unmatched, and undeniably so. They’ve balanced comfort and warmth with decadence and style. As they say, you can never go wrong with a Cashmere scarf; it is truly a timeless piece that has a rich legacy of over 500 years.
Despite much having been written about this ultimate luxury accessory, there are certain facts that are still unheard of. Or there have been many misconceptions surrounding the ever-loved Cashmere. Let’s take a look
1. Napoleon was the first to introduce Women's Cashmere to Europe
Here’s a slice of history surrounding a Cashmere scarf. It is believed that women's Cashmere was first used in parts of Tibet, Nepal, and Persia. Here local tribes would harvest the wool of mountain goats to shield themselves from the biting cold. These mountain goats were valued for their thick coats, which was a result of the sub-zero temperatures. In fact, collecting this underbelly fur of these goats was an important ritual for the locals, especially in remote areas.
For centuries, Cashmere was known as ‘Pashmina', derived from the Persian word ‘Pashm' meaning wool. Its origin dates to the 3rd century BC. It was only in the 15th century that Zayn-ul-Abidin, then leader of the Kashmiri region, introduced weavers from Central Asia.
Empress Josephine in Kani pashmina
The term ‘Cashmere' came about sometime in the 16th century when it was colloquially used to refer to the shawls spun by Kashmiri craftsmen on the Silk Route. But Cashmere’s popularity amongst the European upper classes came to the forefront, thanks to Empress Josephine, wife to Napoleon Bonaparte. It soon became the most coveted status symbol of the day and has arguably maintained its reputation ever since.
2. One Women's Cashmere scarf= Fleece from 2-3 Goats
Another reason why cashmere wrap is so special is because of the nature of its fibre. It is said that the diameter of a piece of Cashmere yarn is under 19 microns, which is interesting 1/10th the diameter of human hair. Since Cashmere is of the finest grade, it is only about 12-14 microns thick
One can’t even visualize the volume of yarn that goes into making a scarf or a shawl and how labor-intensive it is. As unbelievable as it may sound, it takes the wool of 2-3 Capra hircus goats to make a single scarf. Let’s say, if you were to comb off the wool of one Cashmere goat, it would take several years to collect enough hair for a single product.
However, once this ultra-fine yarn is woven, the product is a class apart that exudes warmth like no other. Here’s an interesting fact: The Cashmere fibre is eight times warmer than sheep wool.
The Changthangi goats from which the soft undercoats are procured are no ordinary goats. They have long curling horns and grow shaggy coats of hair. In the chilly winters, it is replaced by a fine, dense, downy undercoat that also acts as a protective layer. During spring, their undercoat is combed by herders or either these goats themselves shed it. There is a misconception that this coat grows only in their underbelly, which isn’t the case. It grows all over their body.
Interestingly, these goats that live in the highest altitudes of the Himalayas in Ladakh can survive in the harshest of winters, hottest of summers, and spells of drought. They can get by with little water and live on the coarsest of grass.
4. No Itchiness, No Allergy
Babies fall in love with the softness and warmth of Cashmere
Though much like sheep’s wool, the Cashmere fibre is much warmer and does not cause any itching on your body. This is because there’s no lanolin, which lends it a hypoallergenic character and allows it to be processed without the need for extremely high temperatures. This also makes it a preferred product for babies, since it makes the child comfortable just like he/she was in the mother’s womb.
Besides, Cashmere absorbs and releases water vapor with humidity, which is why it works well as a natural insulator. Plus, as we discussed earlier, it keeps you eight times warmer than ordinary wool.
Have you come across a situation, where you’ve bought a Cashmere wrap and seen it pill the very next day? Unfortunately, this is more of a trap. Since fashion racks are flooded with fake and blended Cashmere wraps, it comes as no surprise that fast fashion comes down before sustainability.
Kani pashmina shawl filled with a shower of colourful blossoms
When you are paying for 100% cashmere wrap, it is only right that you get 100% cashmere. And if it’s pure, it can’t be cheap.
More than 95% of the world's apparel and accessories are made with Mongolian Cashmere. While what we at Pashmina.com use is the finest cashmere from Capra Hircus species found in the Himalayas that accounts for less than 1% of world usage of cashmere because of its rarity and short supply. Each of our products goes through stringent testing by the Crafts Development Institute, which comes under the aegis of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. These pieces are then individually certified as a mark of quality assurance and authenticity.
What’s more? We are patrons of sustainable luxury and stock products in our portfolio that take several years to create. After all, we’d like to offer you a masterpiece for the price you pay and the comfort you deserve. That’s the reason we go by the saying ‘Less is More.'
Now that you know many of these facts, what’s kept you waiting? Explore our collection of shawls, scarves, and wraps to make a lasting impression. That’s not all, don’t hesitate to express your affection for a loved one with our customized and personalized gifts, which come with a monogram and luxurious packaging.
A land like Kashmir is not just a realm of beauty but also has a soul. It has been and will continue to be nourished by its rich heritage of arts and culture; and that was so steeped in its past. It is through these artworks that Kashmir reached the highest level of fame. Most believe that its beauty has inspired these works of art. But what lies within the cocoon of Kashmir is an endearing story that has reached the farthest corners of the world. It didnt even spare the tales of mid-Victorian novels. Read about the Kashmiri shawl and how it reached every nook and corner of the world
What are Kashmiri Shawls
Once Kashmiri shawls needed no introduction. The craftsmen of the valley were super skilled and highly experienced to prepare shawls of the finest quality. Kashmiri shawls were not just well known locally, but internationally even more. The shawls would take months or even years to complete. The final products would be timeless, beautiful and exceptionally intricate.
It was the 14th to 15th century when Kashmiri shawls started to exist. Commoners used woollen shawls while the rich and affluent used the more luxury Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls. Woollen shawls were the cheapest, but Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls were very expensive. All of the shaws were in high demand all over the world, and men as well as women were happily at the receiving end
Types of Kashmiri Shawls
Kashmiri shawls were highly prized. Women as well as men all over the world loved these. While commoners preferred woollen shawls, royals and the rich chose Pashmina shawls. Some of the patrons of luxury fashion preferred shahtoosh shawls to all the other categories because these shawls were the most expensive yet the finest, best quality and luxurious of all.
Broadly, Kashmiri Shawls are of three different types: Woolen Shawls, Pashmina shawls, and Shahtoosh shawls.
Kashmiri Shawls defined
Woollen shawls come from sheep wool. Workers shear Sheep meticulously, and use the wool to produce shawls. The shawls were sturdy and warm. Hence artisans would do embroideries of all kinds on these shawls. The thick wool base of Kashmiri wool shawls carried Aari embroidery, Sozni, and Tilla Dozi, all of them.
Pashmina shawls came from Cashmere wool, found in Ladakh area. Cashmere wool is produced by the Changthangi goat of Ladakh. Herders comb it off their bodies in the summer season. Later artisans manually process it for days or even months together. The result would be luxury Pashmina shawls, which would be super fine and lightweight. Pashmina shawls were expensive and warm. But Shahtoosh shawls were even more expensive. These were the king of shawls.
Shahtoosh shawls came from the Tibetan Antelope. The antelopes inhabit the high plateaus of Himalayas, and expert hunters hunted them for their wool. Later, artisans manually process the wool like Cashmere, and Shahtoosh shawls are the grand result of meticulous efforts of months or even years.
While Woolen shawls carried any embroidery patterns, Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls never carried thick embroideries like Aari. This Is because the micron count of these two shawls was 8 to 12 microns, and embroideries could tear the fine fibre easily. Hence, only Sozni Kari and Papier Mache embroidery were chosen for Pashmina, while Shahtoosh shawls were preferred solid or at the maximum Sozni would be done over them. Note that to embroider any shawl, Sozni Kari is the lightest thread embroidery.
The Victorian fascination of Kashmiri Shawls
It all started with John Keay in his book 'The Memorable Company'. He mentions that the Merchant’s Hope, which set sail from Surat to England in the year 1613. This marked the beginning of the domestic economy. He substantiated, “Instead of English tweeds revolutionizing Eastern fashion, it was Indian cotton that was about to invade English domestic life. Napkins, table cloths, bedsheets, soft furnishings, even dress fabrics became an indispensable part of the English household.
Indian textiles took over these households. Cashmere also known as Kashmiri shawls became an important part of their lives. Little did they realize that they had fallen in love with the soft fleece from Kashmir.
Victorian Shawls
Cashmere shawls were, at times, called Victorian shawls. This is because these were an indispensable part of the Victorian Era. women in this era were fond of Silk, Muslin and lace Shawls. But Cashmere shawls never failed to impress women the most. Hence, people called these as Victorian shawls, along with their counterparts.
Kashmiri Shawls: An Indispensable Commodity
During the first half of the period, between 1837 and 1870, the shawl was one of the most fashionable of outdoor coverings.
These Kashmiri shawls, known to them as Cashmere, became an integral part of their lives.
It was the French Noblewomen who first adorned it sometime in the 1700s. But later these shawls became even more popular as the years passed by. Sometimes by the 1850s, there was this strong desire within the middle-class women to also adopt this style.
It is this reason why these shawls feature in these Victorian paintings. These are mostly a trademark of respectable English womanhood and a magical garment. It was also a gift that noblemen's wives expected and those of royalty who returned from India.
An essay written in the 'Household words' in 1852 says, “When son or grandson comes home from travel, far or near, his present is a new shawl, despite the fact that the supply that arrives from Asia over bleak continents and wide oceans, can only be for the rich and great.”
There was also an American Bill Brown who termed these shawls as 'material unconscious'. That because these shawls were a status of pride, especially when women stepped out of their houses.
Vivid images that warm the heart
In Elizabeth Gaskell’s "Mary Barton", a group of girls was described as wearing ‘the usual out-of-doors dress. This is worn by a certain class of maidens’. It was narrated that when John Barton’s sister, Esther, returns from an exile, she had put away this opulent shawl and wrapped herself in something rather ordinary. With the shawl, people considered those women the symbols of sanctity.
So powerful was the Kashmir shawl that even if a woman who belonged to the impoverished class wore it, her social prestige would instantly rise.
In the text "Villete", a rich English household employs and Irish woman; and only because she knew a pure Cashmere shawl. The writer of this article adds, ”I feel quite sure that without this Cashmere, she would not have kept her footing even for two days, but she managed to for over a month.”
Capturing the writers' imagination
The Journal des dames et des modes is one of the first French illustrated fashion magazines, created in 1797 by the bookseller Sellèque, taken over in 1801 by Pierre Antoine Leboux of La Mésangère and disappeared in 1839.
Cashmere shawls dominated the imagination of writers and historians as well as the people, especially in the nineteenth century. In the “Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France”, Aileen Ribiero says, “By the early 19th century, manufacturers started producing imitation Kashmiri shawls in Norwich, Paisley and Edinburgh, either of cotton or silk mixed with wool or very fine wool. However, nothing could match the real cashmere shawls for lightness and warmth and this is clearly marked in contemporary literature.”
These Cashmere wraps produced from the undercoat of the Changthangi goats were of unmatched fineness and quality. And no one could dispute this.
Besides, there were also famous portraits of noblewomen adorning these shawls along with the rich literature found. The most known image was of Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, while the others too were impressive. According to Robert Rosenblum, “They were a hothouse ambiance of dense and indolent luxury.”
The rich art of Pashmina making has been unparalleled ever since it was born
By the end of the 19th century, patrons collected these shawls as artifacts for museums. In fact, even today it has retained its value.
In today’s contemporary world, the Kashmiri shawls are reputed for their timeless nature and the classiness they possess.
With a rich tradition that spans centuries, this fascinating textile art has captured the minds and hearts of people across the world; especially those who have an interest in art and antiquity. Even with a high value, it is somewhat losing ground in the market of imitation shawls. Fake shawls are doing the rounds almost everywhere.
Due to lack of knowledge and sometimes the affordability aspect, sellers often trap many buyers without them realizing it.
Kashmiri shawls, or Pashmina shawls, are expensive accessories. This owes to their exquisite craftsmanship and exclusive attributes when it comes to buying high-quality shawl.
Kashmiri shawls are famous for their delicate and complex craftsmanship, which is why they are so expensive. These shawls have been handwoven by skilled artisans in the Kashmir region of India for generations, passing down their knowledge from generation to generation. It is quite amazing how artisans carefully and precisely create beautiful designs, including paisleys, florals, and complicated motifs. Each shawl is a unique work of art that exemplifies the skill and commitment of the craftspeople.
Exquisite Warmth
Kashmiri shawls are made from fine fibers derived from the undercoat of Changthangi goats, a breed indigenous to the Himalayan region. These fibres offer immense warmth and are incredibly soft and lightweight. Genuine Kashmiri shawls are crafted from Cashmere wool, which is prized for its plush texture and elegant drape. The delicate fibres and complex weaving technique produce shawls that is luxuriously soft and very warm.
Timeless Fashion
Kashmiri shawls are timeless. These exude a classic sophistication and grace. They are flexible accessories that can add flair to any outfit, thanks to their elaborate designs and vibrant colours. Kashmiri shawls can be worn as a stole, wrapped around the neck, or draped over the shoulders to lend a touch of grace and refinement to formal and informal outfits. They are appropriate for a variety of events, including weddings, special occasions, and everyday wear.
Culture and Tradition
Kashmiri shawls are a cultural heritage. By purchasing Kashmiri shawls, you are preserving a centuries-old craft and assisting skilled craftspeople in maintaining their way of life. The making of Kashmiri shawls frequently adheres to fair trade principles, guaranteeing that the artisans are paid fairly and work in a secure environment. Purchasing genuine Kashmiri shawls supports the artists and their communities and preserves the region's cultural heritage.
Kashmiri shawls - Current Scenario
As far as the current scenario of Kashmiri shawls is concerned, one can say that it had almost reached a saturation point until very recently. While once there were just adult women who would choose to wear a shawl, especially an embroidered Kashmiri shawl, the times are changing faster. There are still advocates of traditional fashion, who love to glorify their culture and tradition. For Kashmiri shawls, a large number of youngsters stood up, and tried to revive its lost glory and fame.
Fortunately, many of them have been successful, after trying their best since the early 1990’s. Kashmiri shawls have again attained the same stature in the eyes of locals as well as foreigners. Like the periods forgone, tourists rush towards sellers who sell Kashmiri shawls. The most popular is the Pashmina shawl as Shahtoosh is highly expensive and woollen shawls aren't as graceful as Pashmina. Shahtoosh shawls have been banned due to the factor of animal cruelty.
Be it the Mid Victorian times or the current times, Kashmiri shawls exude the timeless grace that no other accessory in the world can. The smooth touch, the perfectionist efforts and the intricate embroidery patterns on these shawls has been and perhaps will always be unmatched.
There are so many reasons to own Cashmere scarves. If you don't know yours, check this write up out.
Gentle breeze, chilly weather, rain, and snow - winter is just a breath away. The season is a means of rejuvenation and relaxation, not just for nature, but for the common people as well. Think about it - the days are short, the nights longer. You can get ample rest and soothe your senses after a scorching and difficult summer heat.
If you think about it, winter is ideal for everyone - from people who like snugly sleep and laze around to people who seek adventure. But then again, it is disliked by a lot many. It is despised by those who don’t like to wear layer upon layer of clothing. It is disapproved of by those who feel too much of cold and above all, it is loathed by the ones who never knew how to shop for winter.
A Muslim shawl-making family shown in Cashmere shawl manufactory, 1867, chromolith., William Simpson.
During the winters, you just cannot compromise comfort for fashion. No matter how badly you want to. If you do, you’ll end up freezing in the bitter cold and even falling sick. That is a BIG no-no.
Combination of Comfort and Style
There are plenty of options that combine style, sophistication, and comfort lurking in different parts of the world. All you need is to have a look around. The woes of a sophisticated urban Miss from France are addressed by a remote village in the east, where the temperatures drop to about -15 degrees Celsius and the Changthangi Goat (famous as Capra Hircus) peacefully dwells. The goat produces a special kind of fleece, the finest in the world, around its underbelly. This precious fleece makes the raw material for the luxury Cashmere scarf cherished by royals, nobles, and elites of the past 7 centuries. Does the name strike a chord? Does it sound familiar?
Once this fibre (locally known as Pashm) is translated into an extravagant accessory or a piece of clothing, there is no running away from the winters.
What makes Cashmere Special?
Most of the people who set their hearts on a Cashmere scarf often wonder why it is priced the way it is. Even a seemingly solid Cashmere scarf is priced between $70 to $200. Then if you graduate towards a Kani or embroidered Cashmere, the prices soar to an all-new level.
We, at Pashmina.com, took this question to heart and set out on an adventurous and culturally enriching voyage to the place where the oldest Cashmere spinners and weavers live - Kashmir. The city blooms in spectacular tulips and finds its peace in the quiet murmur of the Jhelum river.
It is along the bank of this river that Cashmere makers live, concentrated in the old Srinagar city.
We saw them at work, bore witness to their lifestyle, and above all, the laborious process hidden behind the folds of a simple Cashmere scarf .
The making of the Cashmere scarf begins in Ladakh where locals harvest the raw Cashmere fibre and clean it manually. This process alone takes up a stretch of 4 to 6 months. The temperatures in Ladakh are not conducive to fine Cashmere. Therefore, the raw material is traded to Kashmir for spinning and weaving.
Pre Spinning Pashmina - The Ladakhi goat
Upon reaching the valley, it is again cleaned and processed by a group of women who make it suitable to be spun. The fibre is then spun twice to make the Cashmere yarn.
But this is not it. Cashmere yarn is passed onto a Bharangor (a person who straightens the yarn) and then to a weaver who weaves it into the most elaborate shawls, scarves, wraps, and transforms its fate forever. All this might sound simple but it takes over 33 people to make this seemingly simple shawl in a span of 2 to 3 months of meticulous work and sheer skill.
You could say that a Cashmere scarf is special because of its extreme finesse or its rarity. We say otherwise. What makes a Cashmere scarf special is not its molecular structure, location, or metrics, it is the hard work of these people. Each Cashmere shawl you own bears witness to their countless hours of work, will, and dedication.
The Cashmere Which Matches Your Personality
And well, now you know what you are looking for, without sacrificing your style. Right?
From chic sweaters to cozy warm socks, from stylish wraps to elegant shawls, there is a whole universe of Cashmere scarves at your disposal in winters. And guess what? They don’t come in boring colors and the same patterns anymore. There is an exact Scarf that goes with your mood and personality - bold, coy, subtle, lively, or sophisticated. Below are some handpicked Cashmere scarves which are as cool as the temperature (in style) and as warm as warm could get. Let’s unfold them for you.
With each of its threads carefully manually handpicked from the lap of Himalayas, this shawl promises the coziest of snuggles to its wearer
This style is the manifestation of the old saying 'Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.' They are plain and ideal for the ardent fans of minimalism. Observe a plain Cashmere shawl carefully and you’ll find beautiful patterns of a weave which its maker has carefully crafted. Common ones are the Chasm e Bulbul pattern (translating to the eye of the Bulbul bird) and the herringbone weave. The former is classic and most sought-after in the world.
It is also noteworthy to mention how Cashmere scarves are coloured. The dyes used are either natural or azo-free (free from skin irritants). Before dyeing, a Cashmere may either be beige or white in color. After dye, it is just the way you want it.
Going casual, you can choose a bold and bright tone. Going formal, you can opt for pastels instead. Solid toned pieces of Cashmere are best worn with patterned clothing because they compliment the latter.
Hand embroidered in the intricacy of Kashmiri Sozni Kari the shawl hosts a plethora of flowers
After Cashmere has been woven into a shawl or scarf, it is passed onto a different group of artisans who ornate it with unique Kashmiri embroideries. Based upon these embroideries, you can choose which one suits the occasion or your style.
If the shawl is Tilla or Zari embroidered, you can wear it to a party, festival, or even a wedding because it is all blingy and glamorous.
If the shawl is Sozni embroidered (the most intricate thread work ever known to Kashmiris), its pattern will tell you when you can wear it. For instance, there is Jamawar (which features heavy embroidery throughout the length and breadth of the shawl). You can wear this statement piece for weddings or festivals.
Then there is the Jaalidar Sozni Cashmere shawl. These pieces are also full of embroidery, but they aren’t as heavy as a Jamawar. You can team them up with a plain and minimal dress or reserve them for a formal dinner. Alternatively, if you treasure embroideries, you can even wear them regularly. The choice is yours.
The next in line is Shahpasand or Dordaar Cashmeres. These shawls have their borders outlined in a minimal manner. Since they are not loud, you can wear them to your office.
No matter what your personality type, when it is graced by the presence of Persian motifs like paisleys and roses captured in Kashmiri embroidery, there is nothing else you would want to wear!
The piece is as gossamer as it is heavenly warm, as it envelops its wearer in a subtle grace yet a royal demeanour
Kani shawls were first set into vogue by Empress Josephine when she was gifted one by her husband Napolean. Ever since they have remained the choice of the royals and the elite. What sets them apart is the fact that it takes an artisan 6 months to complete a basic Kani shawl. The wrap is made with the help of tiny sticks or bobbins locally known as Kanis. Each shawl uses between 80 to 200 of these sticks. The efforts and skills required to weave a single Kani shawl are commendable.
Even among Kanis, the most sought after are whites, reds, and blacks. If you own a Kani shawl, preserve it for extremely special occasions. Your wrap is truly one of a kind and will turn heads whenever you wear it.
Soaked in colours of flowers of the Paradise, a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is freshly handwoven to lend your winters a breath of freshness
When it’s time to hit the chic mode, there is nothing that is as conveniently stylish as a reversible Scarf. As the name suggests, these wraps have two colours (often contrasting) rooted in their essence. Feeling low? Turn the bright side on. Want to tone down for the occasion? Turn the subtle side on.
Now here is the amazing part - you can use the same wrap for formal as well as casual occasions. All you need to do is flip to the bright side when hanging out with your friends and flip it over to the sober side when attending an office meeting. We call them synonyms of versatility. And Tres chic!
Inspired by the night skies of summer, which are plentifully bestrewn with the shimmers of stars, the wrap is one of the most awaited accessories for this winter
Cashmere scarves are a class apart. So are Swarovski studs. What if the two could blend? Well, Pashmina.com has already made your dream come true by partnering with Swarovski and some of the most skilled Pashmina weavers from Kashmir Valley to create an exclusive range of Swarovski studded Cashmere wraps. These wraps are ideal when you hit the party mode or when you are about to join the glitterati because they combine the grace of Cashmere with the bling and timeless lustre of an original Swarovski.
Deriving creative inspiration from nature itself, the artist of this shawl chooses the deepest shades of all colours he has experienced
Cashmere scarves have seen many style evolutions in recent times. Among them, the pattern of Ombre is to die for. Ombre is actually a French trend that is followed through and through in the fashion industry - be it in hair colours or clothing. When the French fad blends with the timeless grace of a Kashmiri Cashmere wrap, made with years of traditional wisdom, the end result is an Ombre Cashmere. Its colours gradiate like magic, enveloping you in warmth, grace, and style. Ombre wraps are best worn casually - on your shopping sprees or vibrant moods!
The Kashmiri Pashmina which gets handwoven over a traditional wooden loom in kaleidoscopic pattern and colourful shades
Is a fashion show even complete without the presence of classic stripes and checks? Well, the vogue for stripes and checks is here to stay and slay. The two urban patterns are a city girl’s best friends. They are versatile and you can practically wear them everywhere - to your workplace, shopping trips, day out with friends and family, and even to the ramp. They suit everyone, always remain in style and you can conveniently pair them with everything. When they are clubbed with the warmth and finesse of a pure Cashmere scarf, there is absolutely every reason you’ll have to add them to your winter closet.
The wrap features hand-stitched French Chantilly lace which covers the wrap in an effeminate fashion
French Chantilly Laces have been considered the epitome of feminine fashion ever since they were first conceptualized. They signify a delicate and gentle personality. When coupled with Cashmere, there create wraps that are the reflection of sophistication.
How Pashmina.com Uplifts Kashmiri Pashmina Makers?
Pashmina.com empowers the grass-root Pashmina spinners, weavers, and contributors with the ability to showcase their products directly to a global audience. It bridges the gap between a Cashmere lover who seeks nothing but an original masterpiece and a grassroots artisan who wants to be recognized for his work and earn his due share of earnings. When you buy a Pashmina from Pashmina.com, you are not just shopping. Rather, you are eliminating an intermediary, eliminating the fakes and replicas which have tarnished the market, and above all, you are eliminating the powerful factory owners who have infected this elaborate art form with cheap synthetic infected variations of their own.
At Pashmina.com, an artisan gets to decide the price of his/her product without having to share his/her earnings with any intermediary. Each purchase you make directly improves their livelihood and elevates their standard of living. The artisans associated with Pashmina.com, are always paid upfront in order to motivate them to keep working at their craft. Your purchase sparks hope in their hearts. It encourages them to do better.
Not only this, the designers at Pashmina.com ensure that an artisan knows exactly what the modern buyer wants so that they can align their products accordingly.
Today, Pashmina.com has become the face of the Kashmiri artisan who now feels confident and positive. Not only this, we complete our promise of empowerment when we equip the buyer with all the knowledge he/she needs before owning a Pashmina.
Who doesn’t love the warm embrace of feather-light Cashmere wraps during the winter? The luxurious feel of a Cashmere wrap that keeps you warm during the harsh winter season, without having to wear bulky coats and sweaters is just unparalleled. However, as the mercury rises, the elegant masterpiece is hidden in a wardrobe only to be brought out when there is a nip in the air. But what about wearing your Cashmere for summers? Is that even possible?
Well, the answer to these questions is a resounding yes. Let us repeat, yes, you can wear Cashmere wraps and scarves in summers. When it comes to wool, we always associate them with winters. Cashmere is no other wool. Unlike other wool, Cashmere won’t make you sweat in summers. If you are apprehensive about how to wear Cashmere in the summer, we will tell you how Cashmere works in the hot weather and there are numerous ways to wear it
What makes it appropriate to wear Cashmere in the summer?
Changthangi goat in Ladakh
Cashmere owes its whisper-soft touch and snug feel to the way of procurement of raw wool. The fine luxury fibre is obtained from the finest hair of Chyangra or Changthangi goat found in the highlands of Ladakh, Kashmir. The goats grow a thick, warm fleece that helps them survive temperatures below -40° C. It is this fleece that is harvested by a nomadic tribe. This fine wool called ‘Pashm’ wool. It is four times finer than human hair and is chosen for baby blankets because of its softness and warmth. But what makes it ideal to use Cashmere in the summer? Well, here are a few reasons
Unlike other wools, Cashmere is a natural insulator that is it is warm in winter and cool in the summer. This not only makes Cashmere a sustainable choice but also an-all season choice. Cashmere, one of the most sought-after fabrics in the world, provides warmth without one having to be wrapped in layers of shawls. It is this insulating quality of Cashmere that makes it one of the most valuable natural products used in the fashion industry today.
Non-Absorbent
One of the ideal fabrics for summers is cotton. Cotton absorbs sweat leaving you dry and fresh. Though Cashmere is non-absorbent, it allows the sweat to evaporate quickly, leaving the shawl sweat-free and smell-free. This extraordinary quality of Cashmere scarves and shawls makes it perfect for summer evenings.
Feather-touch like feel
Babies love cashmere for its feather-touch like feel
Cashmere is soft, delicate, and weightless as it is the under fleece of the Changthangi goat. These delicate inner coats of the goats are manually collected by the people of the Changpa tribes. The wool from other animals is often collected by shearing but not Cashmere. This makes Cashmere fine, light, and luxurious. Moreover, the fibre isn’t straight, so when it’s woven, it doesn’t cause any itchiness like other woolen shawls and scarves.
Cashmere scarves are extraordinarily soft and there numerous ways to wear them throughout the year. Whether you live in an area that doesn’t witness harsh winters or you wish to add flair to your wardrobe during summers, a Cashmere scarf or shawl is an incredibly versatile fashion accessory that can rock any ensemble, no matter what the weather is.
Here are a few tips to select perfect Cashmere shawls for summers without sweating it out
Go for two-ply light shawls
Cashmere wraps, scarves, and shawls are woven in one-ply, two-ply, three-ply, or four-ply fabrics. A ply indicates the number of layers of threads used. In simple words, the more the number of plies a fabric has, the thicker it is. We, at Pashmina.com, offer shawls, stoles, scarves, and hijabs in solids and ombre woven with the light two-ply yarns, making them good for summer, winter and autumn. As our shawls are made of pure Cashmere, there’s no compromise on the warmth of the shawls, making them all-season fashion accessories. Available in vivid colors, our chantilly lace scarves and stoles can make a simple outfit look and feel brand new.
Go for lighter colours
Brimming in pastel shades, handwoven over a wooden handloom, the wrap is a perfect wrap accessory
This is one is a no-brainer. For summers, you can opt for light hues. Light colours do not absorb heat. Moreover, the subtlety of soft pastel hue makes them ideal for summers. Our insanely soft Cashmere wraps are available in 52 colors, ranging from blush pink to mint green, that emits a soothing aura.
Go for a Cashmere scarf
If you want to give your summer wardrobe an instant update, then go for a Cashmere scarf for summer. A Cashmere scarf, instead of a full-length shawl, will enhance your ensemble with a splash of colour. The best part about a scarf is that it is a versatile fashion piece that can be worn in a number of ways
Colours every fashionable wardrobe should have this summer
Whether you are looking for a beach cover-up or you wish to add a bohemian touch to your ensemble, all you need a Cashmere scarf for summer. They are perfect for a summer luncheon or an evening date. Here are a few colors that are ideal for creating a wardrobe that is both stylish and glamorous
Blue bloom
The brilliant shades of blue, from dusk till dawn are reflected on this beautiful handwoven cashmere scarf
Blue is the perfect colour for a serene and casual look on a summer afternoon. The soothing and sophisticated charm of a blue Cashmere cannot be denied. It will add a sense of cheerful calm to any outfit. When looking to update a summer outfit, blue has many possibilities. It will give a flowy white lace dress an additional visual appeal. You can also team it up with jeans and a white T-shirt for a typical summer look.
Pastel pink
Set to a pastel shade of pink, this luxury wrap is for those who love to look classy even in the most gloomiest of days
If you are looking for a delicate colour yet something that cannot be ignored, then you cannot go wrong with pastel pink. The gentle colour is perfect for summer, spring, and autumn as it can give a feminine touch to any outfit without being too overwhelming. From evening dresses to a pair of denim jeans, pastel pink is perfect to pair with any other colour. When mixed with neutrals, this Cashmere wrap becomes work-appropriate. When mixed with bright colours, it’s ideal for evening dates.
Lemon Yellow
Set to a pastel shade of pink, this luxury wrap is for those who love to look classy even in the most gloomiest of days
If you wish to nail a perfect summer daytime look, you cannot go wrong with a lemon yellow Cashmere wrap. This gorgeous, cheerful, and lemony shawl will add a cheerful vibe to any ensemble. This shade of yellow pairs well with blue and neutral colors. For astounding effects, pair with it bold colors like green or red. However, for an understated and elegant look, pair it with neutrals. This hard-to-miss Cashmere wrap can be paired with an all-black ensemble for a striking look. For a summery feel, pair it with a floral dress.
Mint
It takes an artisan about three days to handcraft one of these pieces in beautiful weaves
If there’s one color that captures the essence of nature and brings to mind the feel of lush green forests, it’s mint. The minimalist shade pairs well with all the other colors. Handwoven on a traditional wooden loom, a mint Cashmere is a soothing shade to wear. The Cashmere wrap is perfect to achieve an autumnal effect. For a classic look, pair a mint Cashmere scarf with a floral yellow dress or jumpsuit. To slay the ultimate summer look, combine this mint stole with an all-white ensemble. An all-white ensemble is glamorous in every sense, however, the highlight of the outfit will be the mint green Cashmere scarf.
Warm Orange
Handwoven over the classic wooden handloom with utmost precision, this piece of treasure has been soaked in the sunset
Luxurious and bold, a dark orange Cashmere wrap is a great way to add a pop of colour to any ensemble. A handwoven bright Cashmere will brighten up any ensemble. The warmth of vibrant orange brings to one’s mind marigold and tropical vacations. The best thing about a warm orange Cashmere wrap is that it would look splendid in the winter as well as in the summer. For a summer look, couple it with a yellow or white floral dress. If you are wondering how to wear a Cashmere that is so vibrant, then pair it with mute colors. To add a pop of orange to your look, shop now
Handwoven Cashmere has been a great fashion accessory since times immemorial. If you are planning to invest in a Cashmere stole or scarf, then only buy Pure, certified Cashmere made of pure pashm wool. A Cashmere wrap is the most timeless piece you need to create an awesome wardrobe, no matter what season it is
Cashmere was the essential hot commodity in early to mid-nineteenth century France. In fact, an 1854 volume titled Paris chez soi, says,
“In 1798 and 1799, the Egyptian campaign lent frightful importance to the fashion for shawls. Some generals in the expeditionary army, taking advantage of the proximity of India, sent home shawls of Cashmere to their wives and lady friend. From then on, the disease called Cashmere fever took on significant proportions. It began to spread during the Consulate, grew greater under the Empire. It became gigantic during the Restoration, reached colossal size during the July monarchy and has finally assumed Sphinx-like dimensions since the February Revolution of 1848.”
The Cashmere shawl, unlike most other fashion items, possesses an appeal like no other. This imperial, hand-woven textile came to France from the East through Napoleon. During his time, it became a cultural fetish and conjured up images of exotic delicacy and fine luxury.
Catherine of Wurttemberg, by her wedding Princess Catherine Bonaparte, wearing Pashmina Shawl
French and the Cashmere Shawl
Frank Ames, in his history of the Kashmir shawl, describes the first point of contact between fashion and empire.
“When Napoleon returned from Egypt, the generals and officers who had served under him brought back mementos of the Orient. Among these were Kashmir shawls, which they wore around their waists as belts.”
From being a war souvenir, it soon became a fashion necessity, not just for its beauty but also its functionality and provided warm coverage. In fact, it might seem ironical, but Cashmere shawls permitted ladies to dress scantily in public and still remain decorously covered. Cashmere, which was once an integral part of the military indicating conquest & strength, now became feminine. It subsequently moved into the domestic sphere of fashion. It became a status symbol in the mid-19th century and became a trendsetter after Empress Josephine adorned it. Following her, every fashionable lady required a Cashmere shawl to complete her wardrobe and stand among the social elite.
Young Lady in a Paisley Shawl(1824) - Eduard Friedrich Leybold
And there's more…
Cashmere was an indicator of economic status. Although people believe that Josephine owned several shawls, it was the Cashmere that held the highest value. Apart from looking at it from a social and economic standpoint, it also signified feminine virtue. People considered it an heirloom. A mother gifted it to her daughter or women purchased it before their wedding. Journals reiterate that cashmere was an accessory ideal for married or marriageable women. Sociologist Pierre Bourdieu calls it “distinctive”, that quality of uniqueness that the dominant social group cultivates in order to maintain its place in the hierarchy. Basically, everyone coveted it, but not everyone could have it.
Illustration of Shawl found in 1833 novel Ferragus - The Craze for Cashmere in 19th-century France
Honore de Balzac, definition of “distinction” is similar to Bourdieu’s. It provides the structure for the analyses of a few texts in French literature that establish a link between the fashion trend and broader social commentary. In one of his stories on Parisian life, Balzac makes a clear distinction between the two kinds of Parisian women. One can imitate the proper lady and the other can’t.
Cashmere in French Novels
According to Bourdieu, taste is a social construction. It's not just a barometer of social standing but also social meaning. A clear illustration of this is mentioned in Balzac’s novel Ferragus, written in 1833. Here, the female protagonist, Madame Jules, is seen through the eyes of her jealous admirer, Auguste de Maulincourt. It is when she delicately steps off a carriage and enters into a stately apartment. While he follows her, she steps out again and enters a flower shop to buy a hair ornament for the evening soiree. When she arrives at the ball in the evening, she is the cynosure of all eyes due to the simplicity of her dress, which is equated with nobility. The colour of her outfit is white, which reinforces her virtuous nature. There is a phrase that is most used for her, ‘less is more.'
Jules’s apparent foil arrives a little later and accuses her husband of having a clandestine affair. She is the exact opposite of Jules, because of her inappropriate attire, which in turn reflects her low social standing. Jules wears a pure white Cashmere shawl that makes her stand out, while Balzac describes,
"Ida’s shawl is doubly inappropriate. First, she wears it like an open curtain at a bedroom window. Gaping and trailing on the floor, it leaves little to imagination"
Cashmere in more Books
Another of his novels, La Cousine Bette, also takes up the analysis of society through the prism of a single family. The family has complex relations with elements from all social levels. A peasant, Bette came to Paris to stay with her beautiful cousin, Adeline. Adeline was the wife of a wealthy soldier, part of Napoleon’s army. Bette is envious of Adeline’s yellow Cashmere shawl and is supposedly the reason for her “poor relations” at material and emotional levels.
Adeline’s yellow Cashmere
Bette’s fascination for the shawl reflects her craze for Cashmere, but also her yearning for power and prestige. Adeline’s yellow shawl signifies imperial luxury and a cultural sign as well. The shawl is linked to Bette’s “imperialist” fantasy of both wealth and honor. The novel, also represents marital bliss, since Adeline received it as a gift from her husband. Finally, even though it is old, Bette wants to pursue it because it is chic and timeless and an avenue to enter the fashionable circle.
Cashmere was a fetish for so many French women and remained so for a long, a variety of wearing shawls in early 19th century France lithograph 1802-1814
Cashmere was a fetish for French women and remained so for a long, long time. Today, it is still an “object de desire” and many consider it the most stunning and elegant of all shawls. Unfortunately, the market is full of imitation shawls that nullify the painstaking craftsmanship that goes into making this ‘art of the royals’.
The origin of a Cashmere shawl is unbelievably modest. The raw wool comes from the high altitudes of the Himalayas, where the goat inhabits. The goat is strong and sturdy and looks absolutely ethereal from near and far. It is this goat that grows a super fine and soft hair type on the most sensitive parts of its body. This includes the underbelly, neck, and more. The wool grows on its body in the peak winter season so as to protect it from cold. If one travels to Ladakh (India) in winters, one gets to see large flocks of these goats, full of fine Cashmere, roaming around to look for grazing areas in these harsh conditions.
Winters in the Himalayas
Winters are really harsh in the Himalayan region. The temperatures go down to -40 degrees C. Snow covers everything and the area cuts off from the entire world. Even in these conditions, the Cashmere goats surprisingly survive, and that too in the best of conditions. It gets difficult for their herders to find grazing areas for them. There is a shortage of water and food for the goats as well as for their herders. Surviving is a challenge in these winter days, yet the herders as well as their goats manage to get through.
The world’s purest shawls and scarves come from Kashmir, North India. Ladakh is the region in Himalayas, where pure Cashmere grows. It is the Changthangi goats of Ladakh, which survive brutal temperature changes the region experiences to grow it. Ladakh is famous for the way it fully cuts out from the rest of the world, in the winter season. The roads are totally cut, and air transport is seldom available. In these conditions it is barely possible for the herders to move out or anyone else to move in, at least in the mountainous regions. Hence, it is the strength and valour of the Cashmere goat herders to survive and rear their goats properly and carefully.
Processing of a Cashmere shawl
As stated earlier, a Cashmere shawl has a modest beginning. Wool grows on the body of the Cashmere goat in winter, hence protecting them from the immense harshness of the cold. Winter lasts for around 5 months, and March is the Springtime. It is the Spring season when the goat feels discomfort in its body due to warmth and starts rubbing itself around coarse surfaces. Hence, its hair is present on stones, walls, floors, and bushes. This makes its herders alert and they professionally comb off the hair left on the body of the goat. They use large combs and other smaller tools to gently comb out the hairs from the goat’s body. The goat is now free to roam, while herders have the precious hair, packed in small bags.
Artisans process this hair later, in a number of steps, to produce Cashmere scarves, shawls, or apparel.
What makes Cashmere special
There are a number of reasons why Cashmere has always been special. Its craze in Europe, especially in France, has several reasons. To start with, the processing of Cashmere is immensely intricate and praiseworthy. It is perhaps the patience and passion-filled craftsmen of wool who make it what it is.
Processing of Cashmere - A Magical Journey
Processing of Cashmere takes place in steps. The first step is cleaning. Cleaning of Cashmere wool when herders acquire it from the Cashmere goat is the first thing that craftsmen do. Lumps of wool contain a large amount of contamination. Vegetable wastes, dirt, dust, and other impurities are profusely present in it. Hence cleaning is an essential part.
Workers thoroughly clean Cashmere. Then they handpick lumps of Cashmere wool in small quantities, and seperate every type of pollutant from them. Clean wool is dipped in pounded rice mixed with water. This gives strength to these fibres. The mixture is later easily removed by soaking in water, and the resultant fibre is stronger, softer and shinier.
Clean threads are handed over to spinners of the fibre. These artisans (who are mostly women) transform lumps of fibre to long and fine threads which are just 12 to 18 microns in diameter. Fine thread production is a challenging task because of the finesse and gentle nature these threads have. But thanks to the exceptional skill and decades old experience of the women artisans, who make it look effortless and leisurely.
The next step is weaving. Fine fibre is handwoven, as machines strain it too much. Threads are mounted onto the traditional handlooms, and that is when one or two men sit across. The weavers weave until threads are transformed to fabric. This is how a Cashmere shawl, Scarf or apparel comes into existence. It is graceful, beautiful, intricate, lightweight and extraordinarily warm.
More Demand, Less Supply - the coveted Cashmere shawl
The demand for a Cashmere shawl has always been more than the supply. The Supply of Cashmere has always had limits. The season for less supply is the limited growth on the body of Cashmere-producing goats. Even the healthiest goats produce a maximum of 150 grams, which isn't enough even for one Cashmere shawl. Yet the demand, especially from Europe, is never decreasing, and it never was. Since the 18th century, especially when Empress Josephine wore a Cashmere shawl, these luxury accessories were in high demand, and every woman wanted at least one in her lifetime. But the limited supply would be the main hindrance, as well as the reason for its exclusivity. Cashmere shawls are coveted, and one of the reasons is the limited supply, which makes them one of the most sought-after accessories in the world.
Features of a Cashmere shawl - luxury personified.
A Cashmere shawl is nothing less than luxury itself. Coming from an animal, no one could ever have believed that this shawl would be as soft as a feather. Cashmere shawls are one of the softest wraps in the world. Apart from being super soft, these shawls are exceptionally fine and lightweight. These properties make a Cashmere shawl the purest form of luxury. Lightweightedness makes it easy to carry and its finesse makes it ideal for those with a classy taste for accessorising
It is worthwhile mentioning that the weight of a large shawl is under 500 grams, which makes it ideal for winter days when one is already loaded with layers. When shawls are prepared on looms, their threads have a diameter of just 12 to 16 microns. This immense fineness of the thread makes a Cashmere shawl super delicate as well as lightweight. But even after being such a fine accessory, a Cashmere shawl never compromises on comfort. Cashmere shawls are the most warm wraps, ideal for colder days and nights. It is this Cashmere wool that keeps the Cashmere producing goat warm even in -40 degrees C - one of the harshest temperatures. And shawls made from the same bestow an extraordinary comfort to its wearer.
Patterns, Patterns, and Patterns
Cashmere shawls were an age-old accessory, which might have been discontinued by the modern fashion trends. But because these accessories included all the patterns that were ever introduced, they managed to remain timeless. Cashmere shawls started as plain and embroidered. But gradually, their makers realized that not all will love to wear embroidery and plains all the time. With time, Cashmere shawls were printed and patterned for regular use. And then came ombre-dyed, abstract-painted, laced, and reversible Cashmere shawls. When this art form incorporated all patterns that ever existed, buyers always preferred Cashmere over other fabrics. Hence Cashmere shawls took the limelight away from every new fashion trend and kept takers attached to itself for centuries.
Some of the most prominent patterns when it comes to Cashmere shawls are:
Solids: Plain Cashmere shawls are prepared without any embroidery or patterning. These no- embellishment shawls have a grace of their own. These are ideal for everyday use.
Prints, Patterns and Ombre: Printed, patterned and Ombre dyed Cashmere shawls are relatively a modern design. Animal prints, floral prints, chequered patterns, striped patterns, contemporary colour combinations and more - all modern trends got incorporated into Cashmere and women were charmed, owning at least one.
Kani Shawls, Embroidered Cashmere: Kani shawls and hand embroidered Cashmere shawls were more traditional. These were the first ones to be embellished like that. Kani shawls and jamawar embroidered shawls took 4 to 5 years to complete and were the highest priced shawls, and this has been so even now.
Swarovski embellished and reversible Cashmere shawls: These two categories are pretty unique and exclusive. While reversible shawls are two faced shawls which can be worn from either side, swarovski embellished shawls have swarovski crystals over the base, making both of these designs alluring and elegant.
Because there are so many patterns to choose from, one can wear Cashmere shawls to all occasions. While there are solids and prints for everyday use, there are Kani and embroidered shawls for special events and places. Swarovski prints and lightly embroidered shawls can be worn for semi-formal occasions.
The most versatile accessory goes to…
Perhaps Cashmere shawls are the most versatile accessory in the world. With so many patterns to choose from, creative buyers themselves style their shawls in so many graceful ways. While some like to style their fully embroidered Cashmere shawls on their shoulders, others like these to dangle from around their neck. Working women, who love to wear Cashmere shawls to their offices, often tie the shawls in a French knot or loosely wrap it around their neck. Some even wear Cashmere shawls as wraps and capes while others tie it to their handbags for a chic style.
Because there are so many ways to wear Cashmere shawls, these are super versatile, and hence the first choice for a large number of individuals.
Cashmere Shawls stay for a Lifetime
When properly cared about, Cashmere shawls stay for a lifetime! Yes, these luxury accessories can last as long as 30 years if properly cared for. Gentle washing, careful drying and storage makes these shawls even more graceful as opposed to usual wool shawls. Some women have been recorded to own shawls which have belonged to their grandmothers. This property of Cashmere shawls makes them alluring and women often get fascinated by the fact that the shawls will accompany them forever. Hence, these remain close to one’s heart and become the special heirloom gifts for loved ones
Cashmere Shawls are Sustainable, Responsibly Crafted
Even Though it is the prerogative of the makers, Kashmiri Cashmere shawls are sustainably crafted. From its acquisition on Ladakh, its herders always make sure to prevent any kind of animal cruelty. The hair from the body of the goats is removed (gently combed off) in the summer season to prevent their body from the cold. Next, the wool is processed manually, and no use of machinery is done or even required. Zero machine use means zero pollution and this too adds up to Cashmere shawls being sustainable. Hence shopping for a Cashmere shawl can be called responsible shopping
Concluding
As many reasons as can be given, Cashmere has always been the most sought after wrap accessory that Kashmir could give the world as a gift. The shawls, wraps, scarves or blankets, all are immensely elegant as well as comfortable. Be it the 19th century France, or the current times, Cashmere hasn't lost a tad in the admiration that people have for it. Its artisans are still revered for the flawless work they do.
The concept of Sustainability rarely had a mention in the past centuries. But right now, if the product isn't sustainable, customers will be diffident about buying it. This is because of recent concepts like animal cruelty, carbon footprint, caring about the employee benefit or being responsible inhabitants of the earth. Fortunately, Cashmere has passed the test of being a responsible buy. When it comes to Kashmiri handmade Cashmere scarves, there is no animal cruelty and all the processes of preparing a Cashmere shawl are manual. Hence there is no use of machines which simultaneously reduces carbon emissions. Hence when you invest in a pure, high quality Cashmere scarf or shawl, you are being a responsible, conscious buyer. This makes the ever graceful Cashmere a timeless accessory, which has passed the test of time, and been a wonderful companion since times immemorial.
The plush and fine Ladakhi Cashmere, which we see put to use for making sweaters and luxury wraps is hands down the most exquisite fibre ever. Handwoven by masters of the art, products made from Cashmere are a result of superlative skills and an artistic bent of mind.
Origin of the luxury fibre
In Kashmir, Cashmere was discovered in the 15th century by Syed Ali Hamdani, whose visit to Kashmir changed the valley completely. He brought with him nearly 700 craftsmen, who trained the local people in making a number of crafts and art forms. He was an advocate of women empowerment, and hence trained even those women who hadn't even stepped out of their houses. Women now earned on their own, and gradually the economy became stable, in fact flourishing.
In Kashmir, Cashmere was processed to craft Pashmina shawls. These shawls were royal and were only afforded, worn, and highly patronized by royalty all over the world. Not only in the valley but with time Cashmere began to be traded to Europe, especially France and Scotland, who set up their own factories to process Cashmere. These factories produced high-quality Cashmere wraps, as well as sweaters, and a few accessories like socks and handkerchiefs.
Where it came from?
Changthangi goats in Ladakh
Cashmere is acquired from the arid hills and snowy mountain peaks of the Himalayan range, where the Changthangi goat is found. The goat survives on the grasslands of the region where the temperature dips to -40 degrees. As a defense mechanism, nature bestows a soft, warm fleece on the goat, which grows on its underbelly, backbone area, neck, and ears. But in summers, the goat naturally sheds this wool, as well as the herders comb off some.
The fine wool is collected and processed to be transformed into Pashmina shawls, which are the epitome of luxury. This is because of the super soft and fine wool used to craft them.
Characteristics of this fine wool
The wool is extremely warm. It survives the goat in the harshest temperatures ever. For humans too, Cashmere wraps and shawls are comfortably warm, and perfect for chilly seasons.
The Cashmere fibre is exceptionally fine. The spun yarn has a diameter of 12-16 microns, which makes it four times finer than human hair.
The fibre is extremely lightweight. A full sized Shawl of 200*100 cms measurement is below 400 grams weight. As such it is perfect to wear to formal, semi formal, wedding and casual occasions.
The products made from Cashmere are delicate. As such they have to be cared about a lot. If these wraps are treated harshly, they might even tear.
Cashmere products are heavenly soft, and not itchy like many of their wool counterparts.
One goat produces just 150 grams (4 to 6 ounces) of Cashmere. This makes it a total of 3 or 4 goats whose wool is enough to make a wrap
Being such delicate and sensitive, Cashmere products need a delicate treatment and immense care. While this might be effortlessly possible for some, the problem arises when it gets dirty or stained, and has to be washed. How do you wash Cashmere? Can you hand wash Cashmere? If yes, how do you hand wash Cashmere or any delicate wool variant? Let's find answers to these questions, and guide women on how to care for their precious pieces of clothing
How do you wash Cashmere?
Cashmere is gossamer fine, and hence dainty. While washing or cleaning Cashmere, one has to remain careful. Otherwise, this expensive treasure will be lost forever.
The best way to wash Cashmere is to dry clean it. Simply contact your nearest dry cleaners and hand over this precious beauty to them. Dry cleaning extends the life of this product.
If however dry cleaners or laundries are not available or are not free around your area, then you might have to take responsibility for yourself. Washing Cashmere at home is possible, but how?
Hand washing it at home is the next best alternative to dry cleaning. However if its label reads “Dry clean only”, then you might have to look for dry cleaners all around your living place. If that is not the case, washing Cashmere at home manually can give them a fresh look.
How to Hand wash Cashmere?
Follow these simple steps to hand wash Cashmere at home. You will need a washtub, Cashmere shampoo, and tepid water. If you don't have a Cashmere shampoo, you can use baby shampoo or conditioner.
Fill the wash tub with lukewarm water
Pour Cashmere shampoo in it, and give it a whirl
Soak your wrap/sweater into this mixture. Swirl it. Let it soak for 30 minutes
After 30 minutes, take the product out
Do not wring it, as it may lose its shape. Simply make a ball of it in your hands and squeeze.
Rinse it with cold water, and gently squeeze it in your hands again.
Your wrap is now clean
Drying it with caution
Drying cashmere
Now that your Cashmere is clean, it needs to be dried. Do not use dryers to dry this dainty product. Dryers tend to shrink delicate wools. Do not hang your wraps to dry them. That will just pull it towards the ground and deform it. Do not place it in direct sunlight. This will affect its colour. Wet Cashmere is the most vulnerable. Instead, follow the steps below:
Lay down a dry and clean towel on the floor or any flat area
Place your wrap flat on this towel
Roll the towel gently, along with the wrap, and watch it absorb all the excess water out of it
Unroll the towel, and replace it with with a new, dry one
Place the wrap over the new towel, and let it air dry
If you live in cooler regions, your wrap might take days together to dry. But let it dry naturally, Do not use radiators or strong sunlight to quickly dry it. Let it take its time.
Do not use iron on your Cashmere to reduce wrinkles. Instead use a steamer to smoothen your wraps.
Can you machine wash Cashmere?
There is a possibility that you didn't have enough time or any other reason for not being to hand wash Cashmere. In these emergency situations, one can wash a Cashmere product in the washing machine. But taking necessary precautions is the key.
Here is how to do it
Place your Cashmere product in a mesh bag to prevent any snagging
Choose the most gentle settings for washing and spinning (low spin, hand wash setting)
Make sure you are using cool water for washing
Pour Cashmere shampoo or a mild baby shampoo in the soap compartment
As soon as the cycle completes, immediately take the wrap out to prevent creasing or wrinkles
How to remove stain from Cashmere?
Removing stain from cashmere
Pour some liquid stain remover onto a paper towel or your own finger
Gently dab the place, gently rub it with your finger.
Now wash it under room temperature water, and let it dry naturally.
You don't need to wash the entire wrap for a little spot.
If the stain is too much, or too harsh that you know you can't handle it, hand it over to your nearest laundry for a more professional approach.
It is essential to wash your Cashmere every season once or twice. Do not wash it after every use. That might cause pilling or an early withering of the same. When summer is near and you plan to pack your Cashmere, wash it first, and then store it in a clean, moth-free, and dry place in your wardrobe.
Behind thousands of heirloom pieces that passed from generation to generation, fine Cashmere even now continues the spree of mesmerizing women and men alike. And while fashionistas and designers all over the world are repeatedly blending them with silks to give them a particular drape and silhouette, its puritans who remain loyal to the ancient art, and demand pure, handmade, luxury Cashmere wraps.
Where is Cashmere from?
The word cashmere itself can be traced back to Kashmir. When Europeans came to know about the finest fibre being discovered in Kashmir, they visited the valley in flocks. It is them who gave the name ‘Cashmere’ to the wool which was locally called ‘Pashm’. Cashmere was the anglicization of the word Kashmir, as Europeans have their own accent.
It was the 15th century when for the first time Cashmere was discovered in Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir. A Persian saint, who had travelled to Kashmir, discovered it growing on a goat. He ordered socks to be made out of it. The socks were so soft and smooth, that he gifted the same to the King. The king, highly impressed with the quality and feel of processed Cashmere immediately ordered processing units to be made for Cashmere. Now raw wool would be transported to Kashmir from Ladakh, and the entire processing would be done by Kashmiri craftsmen. These craftsmen had been trained by the 700 masterly skilled artisans from Persia.
Where does Cashmere come from?
Cashmere comes from China and Mongolia. These two regions are the highest producers of Cashmere, and about 90% of the world's Cashmere is produced by these. Other than these two, it is found in Iran, Nepal, and Myanmar. The best and the finest variant of Cashmere, however, is Ladakh. The Ladakh region in Jammu and Kashmir (India) produces the highest and best quality of Cashmere in the world.
Cashmere wool comes from Ladakh
In Kashmir, the extraordinarily fine Cashmere comes from a goat, but not any common goat species. It comes from rare species of goats which are found in Changthang, Ladakh. It is finer, lighter, and warmer than its counterparts. Besides, it is also 8 times warmer than sheep wool. And its best use is considered in crafting Kashmiri Pashmina shawls locally.
It is Changpas, the local Nomadic tribe who rear the Changthangi goat and have been doing so for centuries. These nomadic tribes travel from everywhere in Ladakh to Changthang in the months of winter, so that the goat naturally grows the fibre. They set up migratory residential tents, and live the hardest of lives for the attainment of the luxury ‘soft gold’ Cashmere.
It is winters, when Cashmere is grown on the goat's neck, underbelly, behind the ears, and other few places. In Spring, it is the moulting season, the goat sheds this wool naturally, and it is collected by its herders. This wool is cleaned, packed and sent to Kashmir, where processing units await the arrival of a treasure.
Hence your cherished Cashmere shawls and wraps are made from goat hair, just that the goat is a rare and exotic species.
How is Cashmere made?
Often people who invest highly in it, never know how it is made. Today, we demystify the entire process of the making of their favourite Cashmere apparel and accessories.
Spinning of cashmere
As soon as Cashmere wool reaches Kashmir, it is sent for cleaning. Usually, women do it, but men might help too. Clean wool is placed in rice powder, for 3 days, till the wool attains a particular texture, smoothness and strength. It is then cleaned thoroughly, and taken for the most crucial step - Spinning
Spinning Cashmere is notoriously difficult. That's because the fibre is exceptionally fine and delicate. Hence it is done manually with the help of a spinning wheel made of wood, where a lump of wool becomes yarn. This yarn has a diameter of just 12-16 microns. Post this it needs to be woven together.
Weaving too is done manually over wooden handlooms, where 2-3 men sit together and hand-weave these yarns into fabric. Opulent shawls, scarves, and apparel come out of these handlooms after days of meticulous labour.
Traditional Designs vs Modern Designs
As far as the designing of Cashmere wraps goes, traditional as well as contemporary designs are available in the markets today. Traditionally Wraps would be either plain, embroidered or the Kani shawls. As such, the use of luxury Pashmina shawls was reserved for women over 30 years of age, or those who were married. But with time, the young generation too desired to wear Pashmina, for the comfort as well as extraordinary grace it exuded. But wouldn't heavily embroidered shawls and Kani shawls look too much on a teenager? Hence, Kashmir introduced modern design Pashmina scarves and stoles for them.
A freshly handwoven Kashmir Cashmere Wrap takes cues from nature itself and proudly hosts the Indian fauna over a ravishing red
Animal prints, floral prints, stripes, checks, plaids and tartans, customizable logos, and laced wraps are some modern design Cashmere wraps. These scarves are easily carried by young women, even girls for casual or formal occasions. Be it get-togethers, farewell parties or a semi-formal visit to a relative who lives far, Cashmere wraps in modish patterns never looks overdone.
Being a combination of artisanal skills and the impeccable quality of the wool, Cashmere wraps are expensive. And even though many refrains from buying Cashmere wraps for the high price tags, we would like to point out several factors that account for making it extravagant
Cashmere is a rare fibre. It grows on the goat just once a year, and that too a small quantity. One goat produces around 150 grams of wool per year.
The procurement of raw wool from the goat is really difficult. The ones do risk their lives as they have to travel dangerous roads to get to the herders.
The finesse of the fine wool is amazing. Cashmere is just 12-16 microns in diameter which makes it one-fourth of human hair.
The skill that goes into making wraps and apparel out of Cashmere is perfect, as well as real hard work. Artisans work for months or sometimes years to complete one single piece.
The fine wool is exceptionally warm, lightweight, fine and stylish. This makes it versatile and one of the cherished fabrics.
Cashmere has been one of the most revered and enshrined entities ever. From local rulers to those around the world, every wealthy individual owned many pieces of the same. Its admiration is even now demonstrated when one looks at the painting of Empress Josephine, wearing a Kani shawl.
Winter is already here. And it's time to cuddle up in everything warm and cozy. But can we really be that free to stay in bed all day? No, we can't. Hence, we came up with a better alternative that could keep one warm throughout the day without having to wear piles of sweaters. And that is a Pashmina Scarf.
Pashmina is the art of handcrafting fine Cashmere wool into luxury scarves, shawls, and wraps. The finest Cashmere wool is in Ladakh where a rare species of goats grow it as an undercoat. At Pashmina.com, we curate our products from the finest Himalayan Cashmere only as it is extremely warm, soft, and delicate. The wraps thus produce the same qualities. A Pashmina shawl or wrap is so warm that you would hardly need those huge jackets and coats to layer up if you own a Pashmina.
Cashmere to Pashmina - A Luxurious Journey
Not just dresses, Pashmina scarves look absolutely stunning with any outfit. The reason for this unmatched graceful mien is the way artisans handcraft them from an exceptionally fine and luxury fibre.
Cashmere is a fine goat down fibre that grows over the body of an exotic goat species, found in the Himalayas. Herders acquire hair from the goats in the summer season, when the animal feels hot and uncomfortable in the same. They gently comb it off from their bodies and taken for a thorough cleaning. Cleaning takes a few days as the fibre contains a large number of impurities. Post cleaning, artisans spin the fibre into 12 micron thin threads by women, who do so with the help of a wooden spinning wheel. This takes time, patience and a lot of skill, which women have imbibed since long. After spinning the goat hair, it is handwoven over a traditional weaving hand loom that transforms it into luxury scarves which are unparalleled in their looks, feel and experience.
Pairing Pashmina scarves with outfits
Pashmina scarves are timeless accessories. The more you experiment these with different fashion genres, the more you feel that Pashmina scarves are super versatile accessories. Pashmina scarves look beautiful with dresses (long and short), pairs of jeans and shirts, casual clothing sets, ethnic apparel, as well as casual outfits.
Pashmina scarves look the best with formal dresses. Plain formal dresses with embroidered or printed Pashmina scarves, or a patterned formal dress with solid Pashmina scarf, are graceful combinations to carry. Pashmina scarves are the best accessories to aggrandize or tone down a certain look. If you feel you look bland for an occasion, go for a colourful embroidered Pashmina scarf. This will add a dash of exaggeration in your looks, perfect for the event. On the other hand, if you feel that you have overdressed for an event, you can calm the look down with a pastel shaded, soft toned Pashmina scarf. Let us learn about the styles one can carry with formal dresses.
Formal Dress with Scarf
Pashmina wraps are too versatile. But, how to wear a formal dress with scarf (Pashmina)? There are a hundred ways to use them. How to use Pashmina is up to the wearer. You can use it as a shawl, as a wrap, wear it like a scarf, or even make a DIY shrug out of its downy base.
Here are a number of ways in which you can wear a formal dress with scarf
One can wear Pashmina scarves as shrugs. This definitely shows how versatile Pashmina scarves are, enough to be paired with dresses, while transforming them into shrugs.
Something to take care of while using this style of wearing a scarf is the scarf to be chosen. Solid scarves, plains, prints and ombre dyed are the ones to choose. Heavy embroidery and Kani jamawar scarves will never look good when worn as shrugs. These are traditional, royal and overstated pieces which needs a traditional styling and not a modish one
Here is one beauty in warm red, hand-embroidered in Kashmiri Sozni Kari, which looks magical as it feels
If your outfit is too bland or seems boring to you, wear a bright coloured Pashmina scarf to enliven your looks instantly
To wear a Pashmina scarf as a shrug, just place the scarf over your shoulders.
Drag the two ends of the scarf towards the front and tie a knot at the centre.
You can even tie a fancy scrunchy instead of a knot
Adjust the knot in a comfortable position and you are good to go.
Wrapping Pashmina scarf around the Shoulders
This technique is perhaps the most used one. Traditionally too, Pashmina scarves have always been worn over the shoulders to keep one warm. But now, it is a style statement to wear a pashmina scarf in this way.
One who wants to wear Pashmina around their shoulders has to be careful about the colours to choose. Pick a colour which goes well with your dress. Bright colours can uplift a basic look, and pastels can tone down overexaggerated looks
To tie your wrap in a simple shoulder accessory, simply throw it over your shoulders with the ends towards the front
Take one end towards the opposite shoulder and tie a stylish knot
You can even pin a large size brooch near the knot to glam up this simple style
Tying Pashmina in a Wrap Style
Wraps and scarves are two different sizes when it comes to Pashmina. But did you know that you can style your scarf like a wrap irrespective of the size, simply by changing its wearing style. Owing to the softness and fineness of a Pashmina scarf, these beauties are easy to fold not just once, but twice, thrice and more. This specialty of Pashmina scarves makes them foldable, and hence adjusting. With a folded scarf, one can create many looks which are not possible with thicker scarves which when folded look like lumps of wool accumulated over the body
Pure Cashmere threads in close warps and wefts and dyed in warm green taking cues from nature
Fold your Pashmina scarf in the middle so that it acquires a square shape
Fold it again diagonally to attain a triangle shape
Take the two pointed ends towards your shoulder and tie a tight knot.
Your plain dress will look like that of a princess.
Pinning with a Brooch
At times, one wants to tie the Pashmina scarf in such a way that it does not come off and remain fixed with the body. In these times, Brooches are the simplest way to do so. Buying a stylish brooch, and fixing your Pashmina scarf with it takes practically no effort and time. Usually those scarves are worn with a brooch which aren't heavier in embellishments. As such, solids, printed scarves, ombre scarves and others in this pattern are the ones used with brooches. Scarves with their own embellishments (Kani and embroidery), do not need much extravagant brooches, and a simple tie can do that job. Here is how to pin a Pashmina scarf in a stylish way.
Tie the brooch just below the shoulder
For this style, you will need a large size and bling brooch.
Fold the scarf in half over your arm, and pin the two sides of it over the opposite shoulder.
Tie the brooch just below the shoulder so that it doesn't stand on the shoulder.
Do not tie it too close to the neck, or you will have a problem lifting your arm freely
Wrapping your scarf diagonally
If one wants to wrap their Pashmina scarf in a unique fashion, they can wear it diagonally. This style covers one’s entire body, and one wants to look stylish as well as keep warm, this is one of the best styles to follow.
Rich, beautiful, and colourful, the shawl embodies regality and a royal demeanour for which Pashmina was the favourite art of royal class
This style would need a large brooch too
Wrap your pashmina scarf across your body such that one side it is under the arm and on the other side it is over the shoulder
Pin the open ends together at one hip with a gorgeous decorative brooch.
Twisting your Pashmina scarf at the shoulders
A more contemporary way to style your Pashmina scarf is twisting it at the shoulders. At times, when you are tired of trying all styles, a unique and exclusive style is all you need. Thanks to all the ways stylists have come up with, we are never out of options.
Circle the scarf around your neck, such that the two ends are at the front, and the neck is covered with one twist
Tuck each of these free ends through the neck, and pull them sideways to the shoulders.
The ends should cover the shoulders too.
Wear your Pashmina scarf like a shawl
The most common and used style is to wear a Pashmina scarf like a Pashmina shawl. Even though shawls and scarves are different in sizes, they can be worn like one another. Mostly the much embellished scarves are worn in this way to show all the embellishments to the onlookers. Hand embroidered Pashmina scarves, Kani scarves or a swarovski scarf are the perfect contenders for this style.
The intricate and meticulous intervention of Kani bobbins filled with the base of a shower of colourful blossoms
This style of Pashmina is generally draped over the shoulders to cover the upper portion of your body with its pleasant warmth.
Or else you can let the shawl dangle on one shoulder by placing the center of it on the shoulder and suspending the rest down
Usually embroidered or Kani scarves are worn like this so that the entire base is visible.
More Tips for this Style
Apart from wearing a Pashmina scarf over your body, you can even tie it on your bag for formal events. Imagine how classy a plain black bag would look if you tie a bright yellow pashmina scarf over it in a large bow.
Again depending on the colour of your outfit, you can choose a Pashmina scarf to tone down or brighten up a look. If you feel you are overdressed for an event, cover yourself with a nude shades Pashmina scarf, and you are good to go. Similarly, if you feel you look too basic, add a colourful printed or patterned Pashmina scarf to your dress, and glam up your entire look.
Pashmina comes in different sizes. You can have a scarf, a shawl of a larger size, or a headscarf that comes in smaller sizes to complete your different looks. Now we know how to wear a pashmina scarf with a formal dress or any dress on any occasion.
How versatile is this beautiful piece of fine wool!
A Pashmina scarf will be an ideal accessory only if purchased in its purest form. There are a thousand copies of Pashmina which sell in the markets locally and abroad. But the best Pashmina scarf is the one that is crafted from the purest Cashmere. If Cashmere is not pure, or if it's mixed with sheep wool/nylon or any other fabric, it won't look and feel as luxurious as it actually is.
Shopping for a pure Pashmina is a challenge. Thanks to a few honest sellers who have still managed to save the integrity of this luxury art form.
Pashmina.com is one such seller which sells Pashmina scarves handcrafted from the purest of Cashmere wool. Cashmere for these scarves comes from Ladakhi goats, which are considered as producers of the finest quality Cashmere amongst all.
Pashmina.com and Pashmina scarves
A formal dress with scarf shopped from Pashmina.com will be the best purchase ever. Pashmina.com are the sellers of pure Cashmere that has been ethically procured from Ladakh. The makers of these Cashmere scarves are Kashmiri artisans who have over 20 years of experience in their craft forms. Spinners and weavers from around the valley, even the remotest villages, come together to make one Pashmina scarf, which at times takes a few years to complete.
The Pashmina shawls and Pashmina scarves from Pashmina.com are all handwoven. No power looms are used to craft these elegant pieces, and hence they look absolutely incredible.
Wearing a shawl with a dress is a powerful combination to look the best version of yourself. And when the shawl has been handcrafted by the best artisans from Kashmir, it makes one look more graceful and elegant.
The anecdote of Pashmina wraps unfolds in the hinterland of Ladakh - the region of breathtaking landscapes and beautiful vistas. From lush green valleys to rocky mountains, snow-clothed peaks to robust glaciers, from fresh blue lakes to the famous rainbow mountains, Ladakh is a scenic wonderland that intrigues all your senses. It is only when you visit this place, you realize why nature chose Pashmina to reveal its essence in this heavenly land. And perhaps there couldn't be any other place on the earth so fresh and natural, to encompass the delicacy of the fabric as impeccably as Ladakh did.
Ladakh is the highest plateau of India. The mighty Himalayan mountains are over 6000 metres above sea level. And that is where the exotic Changthangi goat or Capra Hircus inhabits. This goat grows the finest cashmere. It is the Changthang region of Ladakh where herders rear these goats for their fine wool, which grows on their undercoat. People believe that if this goat were to be reared outside the parts of Ladakh, it won't produce wool with the same fineness. A minute change in temperature and altitude would affect the diameter and hence the quality of a Pashmina wrap. It is worthy to mention here that it takes three such exotic goats to weave one single Pashmina wrap.
What's not to love about the cherished fabric of Pashmina. After all, there is this one fabric that has stood the test of time, and that too since 300 BC. But how did we get this luxury fabric in the first place? Who discovered Pashmina? Who went all the way up to 6000 metres and discovered the Changthangi goat? Where did it all begin? Let's find out.
History of Pashmina Wraps
Pashmina comes from the root word “Pashm” which literally translates to “soft gold”. And perhaps this was the major attribute of Pashmina which made it world-famous. Within no time, Pashmina was the most prized possession of nobles, royals, and the richest people across the globe. The Pashmina shawl has an illustrious and glorious past. And since then, never has the Pashmina wrap lost a tad in its exquisiteness and grace.
The weaving of fine Pashmina shawls in Kashmir gets mention in various ancient texts. In fact, it can be traced back to the second century BC. Shawls finely woven in Kashmir find mention even in ‘The Book of Han’ which was composed in around 111 CE. It gives a quick gist of the lifestyle of the then Kashmiri people, and their adeptness to craft shawls. The shawls crafted in Kashmir found special places in the royal courts of Caesar and Nero.
Pashmina Wraps and Kashmir
While some parts of the world were already in love with the meticulous art of making Pashmina wrap, it wasn't until the 15th century that the word “Pashmina” came up. From 1418 - 1470, Zain ul Abideen, who people called Budshah (great Ruler), ruled Kashmir. It was him, who people believe to have founded the Pashmina wool making in Kashmir.
In addition to this, legend has it that a Sufi Saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani came to Kashmir from Persia along with 700 craftsmen. He stopped at Ladakh, where he discovered the Changthangi goat. He used their soft wool to craft socks for King Zain ul Abideen. The king, impressed by the quality of the fabric, decided to set up processing units for the same.
Around the late 15th century, Kashmir was under Mughal rule (the 1580s to 1750s). The then Emperor Akbar also admired Pashmina art and took a keen interest to improvise its manufacturing units, as he took over. It was at this time when artisans introduced embroideries. Even now one can see the influence of Mughal culture over embroidered motifs. Designs like Shah Pasand (Emperor’s choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Muhammed Shah’s flower), both are named after the Mughal emperors.
And There's More
In his autobiography Tuzk e Jahangiri, emperor Jahangir defines Pashmina wrap as his favourite piece of clothing. The then cloth dealers, realizing its worth, brought large quantities of raw wool from Ladakh to Kashmir. Weaving Pashmina reached its zenith and superior quality at that time. Some say that one can twist 1.5 square yards of Pashmina and pass it through a finger-ring.
The Pashmina wrap saw a huge boom during the Mughal patronage. The emperors of Iran and the Mughals used to exchange Pashmina wraps as gifts. Rulers used Pashmina to establish hierarchical relationships between the giver and the taker as its acceptance would mean submission. They called these shawls ‘khilat’ meaning ‘robes of honour’ which were embroidered in gold threads.
Members of the Mughal royal court used large quantities of the Pashmina shawl between the 16th and mid 19th centuries.
Pashmina Wraps and Europe
A new fashion fabric entered the European markets in the second half of the 18th century. It was exceptionally soft, unusually warm, feathery light, and smooth as silk. In addition to all these qualities, this fabric features such intricate patterns that Europeans had never seen or produced before. This product was the Kashmiri shawl - which artisans crafted from fine Cashmere. And there was something that the Europeans admired as much as the shawl itself - the Paisley motif embroidered over it. This blend of an aesthetically pleasing fabric with a luxurious appeal and an intricately handmade motif got Europeans swooning. These properties made the Kashmiri shawl a must for art patrons and affluent Europeans. In fact patronage by Empress Josephine of France and after her Queen Victoria further strengthened the fame of the Kashmiri shawl
Empress Josephine in Kani pashmina
By the end of the 19th century, Kashmir had already started trading shawls with the west. Some Europeans even though copied Kashmiri Pashmina Wraps, and did pretty well in their markets. Such was the passion that this shawl aroused in their hearts. In the next 500 years, one could see Kashmiri shawls in every market of Europe with heavy sales. Its production and style soon changed in order to adapt to local needs and likes.
Kashmiri Shawl: What and How?
Kashmiri shawl is an accessory that people wear in winters around the shoulders and neck to keep warm. The temperatures dip too low here in the valley because of which people keep a stock of warm apparel and accessories before winter even arrives. Pure wool, Cashmere, and Shahtoosh or ‘Tus’ (which is banned now) all contribute in the making of Kashmiri Shawls. Cashmere is the raw wool of a goat from the Changthang area. These are the Changthangi goats or Cashmere goats. Tus on the other hand was the most exclusive kind of wool which came from the Chiru goat (called stos in Ladakhi). Its down hair is the finest of all fibres the world has ever witnessed. The diameter of one Shahtoosh fibre is between 7-10 microns only. However, there was a ban on Shahtoosh due to hunters unethically hunting the Chiru (Tibetan Antelope).
Kashmir saw a monopoly in supplying these Pashmina wraps or Shahtoosh wraps all over the world. These goats and the conditions where herders bought them up, were not available anywhere else in the world. Hence Kashmir was the only supplier of Cashmere and Shahtoosh with demand always exceeds the supply. These materials have always been difficult to synthesize or even substitute. It was this luxurious rendezvous of a distinctive weaving method and the exceptionally fine wool which were responsible to produce an opulent fabric.
As the popularity of the Kashmiri shawl rose to great heights in the 1800s in Europe, it led to 'copying' and 'faking' the original one. Even though the copies found many enthusiastic buyers, it could never actually be a competition for pure shawls
This was the period when buyers called Pashmina "Cashmere". The word Cashmere is the 18th-century spelling of ‘Kashmir’ named after the hometown of Pashmina. European and American firms used the word Cashmere to distinguish between Pashmina and locally manufactured shawls and fabrics. Some manufacturers produced imitations of Kashmiri shawls and used the word Cashmere to sell their own products.
Nevertheless, Cashmere is the raw wool that artisans handcraft to produce luxury Pashmina shawls and scarves.
The Paisley Motif (Buta)
The shawl takes inspiration from Emperor Akbar's collection, who was a true patron of Reversible Aksi Do Rukha shawls
Buta, is also famous as Paisley in Europe. It is a teardrop shape motif that has archaic origins. Paisley became one of the most well-known patterns in the history of textiles. Paisley over Pashmina wraps existed in the Mughal period. But in this period, people called this motif 'Buta'. It is later when the Europeans imitated and modernized it, and called it Paisley. Paisley is a town in West Scotland that became the most well-known imitator of the Buta motif, hence the name.
The Buta motif became a topic of discussion among historians regarding its origin. Some say it resembles the Cypress trees from Pre Islamic Iran while local Kashmiris called it Badum (Almond) due to some resemblance. Nevertheless, Europeans added more floral elements and other decorative arts around it and kind of upgraded it to match their local needs. They reintroduced the shawl with ‘their kind of Buta motif’ and called it Paisley which had major differences from the actual Buta. It was more stylized and less natural as it had a large influence on not only European but Iranian and Indian art.
It is said that till the 1800s, the Kashmiri shawl featured patterns just over the borders of a shawl. But with interferences and upgrades from Europe, the shawl now featured embroidery patterns all over the base. Europeans took cues from Iranian carpets and wanted the shawls to have a similar appearance. Hence, European dominance of the shawl in the west and in Kashmir itself started showing in the mid-1800s and led to the development of the Paisley pattern, dissolving forever the natural Buta.
It is a very well-known fact that the Kashmiri shawl came to Europe when Napoleon gave his wife Josephine a fine piece of the same. Supposedly, Napoleon had gone for an invasion and on his way back, he discovered the fine Pashmina wraps somewhere. He picked one and could not resist buying it for Empress Josephine. Being a figure of sophistication and a wearer of the finest apparel, Josephine purchased hundreds of the same and set these types of shawls into a timeless fashion.
While this is the most common view of how Kashmiri shawls came to Europe, another view is that shawls came to Europe through the British in the later 1700s, when they ruled in the Indian subcontinent, most likely the East India Company. Officials of the British would send Pashmina Wraps as gifts to rulers of the Mughal empire and vice-versa. When returning to their own countries, these officials would take Kashmiri shawls as gifts to their wives and family members. With more and more popularity, yet a high price, European nations attempted replicas of the same shawls in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Then only high officials and aristocratic women afforded original Kashmiri shawls.
Europeans and the manufacturing of Pashmina Wraps
The main issue that Europeans would face to make original Pashmina wraps was a lack of raw material. Their desperation to acquire Cashmere goats was clearly evident in the First Sikh War of the 1840s when as a part of the Treaty of Amritsar, Gulab Singh was to offer twelve Cashmere goats annually.
Prior to this, Britishers had once tried to secure a population of Cashmere goats for England and took two batches - one of the male goats and another of females - in two different ships. The females never made it to England and the males couldn't find a suitable environment to grow the fine Pashm. Hence Kashmiri retained the monopoly of producing fine Cashmere made Pashmina wraps.
Europeans could produce the same Kashmiri shawls. A Kashmiri shawl needs the patience of the weaver. It is time-consuming, meticulous, and in fact, a painstaking process to make a Kashmiri shawl. In Kashmir, a weaver took years together to complete one shawl, which the Europeans found hard to follow. Kashmiri weavers used a simple loom that just held the warp stiff and the weaver inserted wefts with complete freedom. But European looms were not of this typical design, and therefore became a major hindrance to produce pure Kashmiri shawls.
Pashmina Wrap loses originality
The popularity of Cashmere in Europe proved slightly detrimental to the originality of the shawl. Since demand was much more than the supply, Kashmiri artisans innovated new techniques and designs with the great involvement of Europeans. British administrators and French designers took charge of the shawl making in Kashmir. They directed the local efforts towards fulfilling the demands of foreign customers. There began variations in the original Kani shawl. Kani making was known as Kanikar. It was high in price and took a lot of time to complete. But now Kashmiris innovated the Tilikar and Amlikar which produced more outfits and less value. These two innovations still were popular in Europe because of the same ‘apparent’ look and affordable prices.
The best attempt of copying the Kashmiri shawl came from the Paisley town of Scotland. Paisley became the very first weaving centre to use the Jacquard loom which employed around 5000 people. The loom did try producing ‘paisley’ fabric which obviously wasn't possible. It resulted in a fabric evidently inferior and of poor quality.
The Fall of Kashmiri Shawl
From around the 1850s, several factors contributed to the decline in the popularity of the Kashmiri shawl and its European copies
Firstly there were some type of apparel which could be worn in combination with Kashmiri shawls. But as trends changed, these apparel got outdated dissolving the need of a Kashmiri shawl.
The Franco-Prussian war was a major one in Europe which led to the disruption of trade between India and Europe. This even led to a detrimental loss in Kashmir’s economy which had by then grown independent. Kashmir experienced a famine in 1870 as the major population were shawl makers only.
A huge demand and practically no supply led Europeans to manufacture their own version of machine made Pashmina wraps to meet extensive demands. Some weavers fled to other countries whilst pushing Kashmir into the ‘dark age’. People believe that Kashmir never did recover from this loss.
In the early 1900s, Paisley was survived by other apparel over which it began surfacing. Etro in Milan became one of the most prominent fashion houses to reintroduce Paisley to runways. Etro had a collection of 19th century shawls - Kashmiri as well as European - and thus, had a clear idea of what Paisley meant. Hence it included the motif in its fashion lines and became closely associated with the original motif.
Pashmina Wraps in Iran, West Asia and Russia
Kashmiri shawls have been famed since time immemorial, owing to their quality as well as design sensibilities. The picturesque vales of this region have produced some of the most stunning masterpieces in the form of richly embroidered shawls. These are famous throughout the world. It may come as a surprise though that there is not much documentation of the Kashmiri shawl in the early 1700s. Especially around foreign trade. Abul Fazal in his Ain-i-Akbari writes,
“Many kinds of Pashmina are beautifully produced, especially the shawl that is exported as a rare and luxury trade item to many countries.”
He added,
“Under the sway of his Imperial Majesty … is the secure and happy abode of many nationalities, including natives of Iran and Turkestan as well as Kashmir.”
If we analyze the two statements, it comes across that some if not everyone from Iran and Turkestan was in Kashmir in the 1580s. The primary reason was to commission and buy Kashmiri shawls. Besides, later in the 1630s, Portuguese missionary and traveller, Manrique, wrote,
“Great trade is done in Cassimir and Laor with the kingdoms of Kandahar, Corazane and Iran,”
and 30 years later, Bernier asserts the same thing that the Kashmiri shawl production
“particularly promotes the trade of the country and fills it with wealth.”
These texts do suggest that in the 18th century, the Kashmiris were involved in mercantile activity, just like Armenians and Jews. In the 1720s, there were Kashmiri colonies in Tibet and also in Kathmandu in Nepal. It all drives home the point that Kashmiri shawls are a part and parcel of their enterprising nature.
Yelizaveta Demidova, wife of Nikolai Demidov, the exceeding wealthy owner of mines and foundries in the Urals, Russia, 1805 by Lefevre, Robert Wearing Kashmir Shawl
Journey through Iran
Previously, caravans spearheaded by horses and camels made their way through the dusty terrains to reach Bokhara, Meshed, Isfahan, Baghdad, and Allepo, finally entering Istanbul. At this stage, the quantities were limited and the trade sporadic. It was sometime in the mid-1700s when there are pieces of evidence to show. A French adventurer Count de Modave spent several years between 1757 and 1777. He seems to have been in India at that time, but could not visit Kashmir. However, he really admired the beauty of the Kashmir shawls sold at Delhi’s Chandni Chowk. The finest shawl was available somewhere between Rs 150 and Rs 200. It was unmatched in luxury and finesse. He added that artisans crafted the most expensive Kashmiri shawls for Turkey and Arabia.
The prices mentioned by Modave are later validated by George Foster, who visited Kashmir from 1782-83. He said,
“Ordinary shawls in Kashmir came for Rs 8, while the better ones for Rs 40 and the finest ones a little over Rs 100.”
More Trade of Kashmiri Shawls
With the rising demand for Kashmir shawls in Europe, the trend continued. According to a Kashmiri merchant in Bokhara in 1820-21, total production was of 100,000 pieces. Out of these 80,000 were exported, 60,000 to India. The remaining were exported by way of Kabul and of these 5,000 might have remained in Afghanistan, 12,000 went to Iran, and 2,000 to Russia. The total value of shawls sold in Kashmir, according to Moorcroft, was nearly Rs 35 lakh.
In the first quarter of the 1800s, Iranian and Central Asian merchants dominated trade. It was hard from Kashmir, as Moorcroft puts it. In 1831, a French botanist and geologist, Jacquemont, who was famous for his travels, asserted,
“Most of the shawls manufactured in Kashmir are purchased by a very small number of rich and respectable Iranian merchants.”
The visiting merchants spent months in Kashmir since they had to wait for long periods to get their commissioned goods. According to an observer in the 1800s, the return journey from Kashmir to Iran was arduous. There was much time spent on negotiating and commissioning their purchase. As such it took as long as three years for these shawl dealers to get a return on investment. The merchants commissioned
“Shawl goods differing as to quality and pattern in conformity to the taste of the markets for which they are intended in a degree probably not suspected by the shawl manufacturers in Europe.”
Fashion plate featuring a dress made of Kashmiri shawls, 1812
Kashmiri Shawls : A Choice of Nobles
Just like the Banarasi brocades and fine muslin that were exported, Kashmir Pashmina shawl goods were purchased only by the elites. Artisans also designed the square rumal for women. Womenfolk from Iran to Egypt folded it in a diagonal manner round their waist or shoulders or sometimes, draped it as a veil over their heads. Artisans also made Jamawar into women’s clothes in winter.
In Asia, unlike Europe, men as much as women wore the shawl. In India, specifically, admirers wore it as a shoulder mantle. Yet in other countries, the nobility wore it as a turban. Apart from its functional use as apparel, rulers gifted shawls as religious offerings as well as tomb covers. When the shrine at Karbala was plundered, the losses included 4,000 pieces of Kashmir shawl. The shawls were also a part of court ceremonies, especially on Navroz, the Iranian New Year.
Popularity in Iran
Pashmina wraps were also in high demand in Iran from the 16th to early 20th centuries. The emperors of the Safavid, Qajar, and Zand dynasties often wore fabrics made from Kashmiri shawls. Iranian emperors used Kashmiri shawls as gifts to present them as robes of honour throughout their reign. However, Iranians never used the shawls as drapes but had them tailored as well fit dresses and garments.
At one time in history, Kashmir had to compete with local Iranian Kermani shawls (manufactured in Kerman). Artisans beautifully designed these in kaleidoscopic shades. When Pashmina was about to lose this battle (because of high production and colourful designs of Kerman shawls), a German physician who lived in Iran in the 10th century defended Pashmina. He said that Persian shawls are just comparable to Kashmiri shawls in terms of design and colour. But when it comes to the finesse of weave & suppleness of the fabric, Persian shawls are too inferior comparatively
In Russia, shawls were popular as early as 1795, when artist Elisabeth Viglee Le Brun decorated her house with Pashmina wraps, of which there was no shortage in St. Petersburg. Russia was considered a crucial market for shawls of the expensive variety. The transit duty in Russia was calculated on the number of shawls, not on their value.
Elisabeth Viglee Le Brun
Pashmina Wraps in India under Mughals
Mughal aristocracy has been much spoken about for their luxurious way of life. In fact, the emperors’ wives always turned up well and stunned everyone with their beauty and grace. These women used shawls to drape themselves in the highest luxury. These nobles generally resided in urban centres, which is why the chief centres of production and marketing developed in the cities. It comes as no surprise that the hotbed of shawl manufacturing was undoubtedly Srinagar. Several thousand looms functioned during that time to craft this work of art.
During the Mughal rule, the shawl-making attained the stature of a royal production. It attained maximum growth with 40,000 looms in operation. People called these operational units karkhanas. These developed extensively during this period since they were the biggest patrons of shawl weaving.
In the royal karkhanas established by Akbar, there was a range of new designs, patterns, and colours. The Kashmir shawl attained high stature and nobles gifted it among themselves. Since the people of Kashmir have always been dependent on woollen items, it took off. But at that time, the royalty and aristocracy largely consumed it, in and outside Kashmir. The Mughal rule led to the growth of the Shawl making and also its organization.
The Mughal emperors encouraged Pashmina-making as much as they could, bringing about perfection in the weaving style. The shawl became a symbol of imperial prestige and brought about value in commercial ties, leading to commercial trade in Kashmir. After a point, it became an obsession for all the nobles to own a Kashmiri shawl. The emperors purchased these shawls in large numbers and often offered them to the subedars.
Akbar - Pashmina's biggest patron
Apart from their fondness for this delicate weave, Akbar made it mandatory for the courtiers and people of certain ranks to wear certain adornments. These were takauchiya (coat), peshwaz (a kind of open coat), and parmanaram (the Kashmir shawl). The number of women who received presents during the time of Akbar was 5,000.
When the demand for these shawls flourished and increased by the Mughal emperors, the production started to grow. After the conquest of Kashmir by Mughals, they made the shawl an imperial monopoly to cater to their own interests as well to those of the Indian and Kashmiri elite. According to Abul Fazl, besides the shawl, there were certain other activities and products that were declared imperial monopolies. In fact, an officer was appointed to take care of these karkhanas. Manucci writes, “the kings and princes keep officials ─ whose business it is to put in hand the best goods that can be fabricated in each place. With this object in view, they kept an eye continually on what was being done in that respect."
The written word
There is enough and more literature on these shawls in the Ain-i-Akbari. Abul Fazal writes, “In former times, shawls often came from Kashmir. People folded them up in four folds and wore them for a very long time. Nowadays, patrons wear them generally without folds and merely throw them over the shoulder. His Majesty has commenced wearing their double, which looks very well.”
Srinagar was the provincial capital and by default, became the natural centre of the shawl-weaving. It was considered a more beneficial occupation than agriculture. The major craft products of Kashmir were shawls and other woollen products. Fazal adds, “The woollen fabrics are made in high perfection especially shawls which are sent as valuable gifts to every clime.” The wool used for the manufacture of these shawls known as pashm was earlier produced in Turfan, Chahthan, and Tibet, and even beyond from Kashgar and Central Turkistan. In Kashmir, it was imported from Western and Central Tibet. The routes leading to these mountainous regions were traversed with much difficulty. Labourers were employed to bring the fleece from these places to the Kashmir Valley.
Words by Abul Fazl - Akbar's court historian and biographer
The Mughals also took a keen interest in improving the design sensibilities. Abul Fazl writes, “His Majesty pays much attention to various stuff – skillful masters and workmen have settled in this country to teach people an improved system of manufacture. They perfected all kinds of hair-weaving and silk-spinning.”
He added,
“His Majesty improved his department in four ways. Firstly, the hair of tus goat was used to make tus shawl. Its natural colour is black, white and red, but mainly black. Sometimes, the colour is pure white. This kind of shawl is unrivalled for its lightness, warmth, and softness. People generally wear it without altering its natural colour, his Majesty has had it dyed.
Secondly, the corded and patterned shawls (tarhdars shawls) were made of either white, black, or mixed. The white kind was formerly dyed in three colours.
Thirdly, attention was paid to the manufacture of different varieties of shawls, such as zardozi, kalabatun, kashida, qalghai, badhnun and parmanaram.
Fourthly, an improvement was made in the width of his stuff, his Majesty had the pieces made large enough to yield the making of a full dress
Loom embroidery
It is believed that loom embroidery was introduced in the 16th century, but it already existed in Persia. The Kashmir shawl was greatly influenced by the Persian style. The innovations of Mughals resulted in the manufacture of the do-shala.
Later, Jahangir in his memoirs writes, “the shawls of Kashmir to which my father gave the name of parmanaram are very famous. Another kind is taharma, it is thicker than a shawl and soft. And in Kashmir, they weave the pattu shawl from wool, and sewing two shawls together, they smooth them into a kind of saqarlat (broadcloth), which is not bad for a rain-coat.” This reflects the flourishing state of the shawl-making during Jahangir’s time.
Pashmina shawl making peaked during Shah Jahan’s rule. With the expansion of the empire, new channels of trade opened up. He gifted shawls to the rulers of Golconda and Bijapur, they were also sent to the Ottoman Empire, Safavid Empire, and Egypt.
Handwoven over traditional handloom, with the intricate and meticulous intervention of Kani bobbins, which fill the base with a shower of colourful blossoms
There was a method of shawl weaving, known as Kani shawl, which became popular during the Mughal period. The famous designs textured were pashmina Kani, jora kani, qasaba kani, romal, shah pasand and jamawar. They were so fine that they could pass through a small ring.
Current Scenario
Today large amounts of Pashmina sell all over the world. However, most of them are blends of wool and silk. Some dealers soak ordinary wool wraps in fabric softeners and claim those to be Kashmiri Pashmina wraps. Nevertheless, Pashmina remains unmatched and rare. The factory produce might be perfectly made with every single stitch in order. But it is the irregularities and fine distinctions of the original Pashmina that make it the classical heritage piece that it is.
When buying headscarf, one may wonder why Pashmina and not some other fabric? It should be noted that unlike other fabrics, Pashmina is soft and lightweight, making it comfortable to wear.
Pashmina headscarves have everything you love about Pashmina. For instance, a headscarf has an enduring appeal because they are crafted out of fine Cashmere. Also, they have the timeless charm of Pashmina and are an amalgamation of craftsmanship and style that exudes perfection. Besides Pashmina Headscarves are available in various hues to match all of your outfits.
Here are a few pieces that you can wear year-round
Purple Lace | Laced Luxury Headscarf
Purple headscarf embellished with gold French Chantilly Lace
For those of you who are looking for a Headscarf that would elevate your outfit, a purple lace Headscarf is your savior. The handwoven cashmere luxury headscarf has delicate lace running across it, lending it a sophisticated look. This headscarf will not just complement your daily wear, but certainly, elevate its overall appeal in an instant. Apart from this, the classic purple headscarf can vivify your outfits on any occasion.
Emerald Green | Embroidered Pashmina Headscarf
Green headscarf hand embroidered by Kashmiri artisan
Luxurious and elegant, traditional yet contemporary, the emerald green Pashmina Headscarf will undoubtedly lend you a sense of sophistication. The hand embroidery done by Kashmiri artisans makes this headscarf one-of-a-kind. Adorned with intricately beautiful embroideries & delicate floral patterns, this luxury headscarf is an absolute grace. In addition to this, it will give you an edge of sophistication.
Magenta | Swarovski Studded Pashmina Headscarf
Magenta headscarf embellished with original Swarovski Crystals
If you are looking for an elegant Pashmina headscarf, your search ends with the magenta dance of the fireflies Swarovski Hijab. Adorned with brilliant white crystals, this headscarf is undoubtedly an example of the uncompromising craftsmanship of Kashmiri artisans. This headscarf and others are handmade by Kashmiri artisans who spend weeks, working on them. The feather-light Pashm wool makes it ideal for all weathers. It’s perfect for everyday and formal wear. The white crystals give it a flattering look and will absolutely help you create a signature look.
Black Currant | Ombre Dyed Luxury Headscarf
A modernised headscarf in shades of pink
For everyday wear, the black currant Pashmina Headscarf is the best. It will definitely add glamour and class to your style making you look very elegant on a daily basis. The versatile colour of this luxury headscarf makes it a perfect addition to your wardrobe. It can easily go with most of your day and evening attire.
An Ivory headscarf embellished with colourful original Swarovski Crystals
Nothing has ever been as timeless as the colour white. And that's why we chose this beautiful colour to dip a fine Pashmina luxury headscarf into. Featuring a shimmery constellation of luxury Swarovski studs, hand-stitched into the base, the white pashmina headscarf with Swarovski crystals handmade beauty will upgrade your basic ensembles in a jiffy.
Red Pashmina | Solid Headscarf
Red headscarf handcrafted with Himalayan cashmere
What colour can elevate a barren outfit as wonderfully as the colour red? We have just handpicked a handmade red Pashmina headscarf in the colour of love; it makes your basic plains more vivid and lovely. Altogether, this luxury headscarf is an embodiment of grace; even in their solid essence they never leave a moment to make you look like a queen on her throne. Tie a headscarf like this over your head or wrap them around your neck for an undoubtedly amazing style
Bubblegum Pink Lace luxury Headscarf
A contemporary pink headscarf with French chantilly lace
From the wooden looms of Kashmir, comes an ethereal beauty to cover you up in an artistic fashion. A pretty pink Pashmina headscarf is handwoven to complement your vivid outfits instantly. Moreover, this can be worn to tone down an overdressed look. Handwoven in Kashmir, the headscarf feature a hand-stitched lace that spans all over the fibre Cashmere base. Pair this beauty up with winter and fall apparel
The White Lotus Headscarf
A hand embroidered headscarf in Sozni kari
How ethereal does hand embroidery look! Luxury headscarf has been handcrafted in the realms of Kashmiri Pashmina. Hand embroidered in Kashmiri Sozni Kari for an exquisite effect, the white lotus pashmina headscarf is exceptionally warm. And why not so. It has been crafted from pure Cashmere threads manually acquired from Ladakh. Pair this nude shaded beauty with winter outfits and watch your looks metamorphose from good to amazing
Mango Ombre Pashmina luxury Headscarf
An ombré headscarf in heavenly colours
Intricately handwoven in Kashmir is the mango ombre Pashmina headscarf. It features colours stolen from the seven heavens. Handcrafted in an ombre pattern, a luxury headscarf like this promises a pleasant warmth to the women of today who knows how to carry the charm of traditions, even in this world of fast fashion
Why buy luxury Headscarves from Pashm?
Pashm is a luxury brand introduced by Pashmina.com which offers the most opulent styles in Pashmina. Pashmina Headscarf and other Pashmina accessories from Pashm are sought-after for their unmatched quality and softness. Made from Pashm wool, a Headscarf is the epitome of class and sophistication. Each Pashmina product that you buy from us comes with a certificate guaranteeing the quality of the product and technique.