The nature with its mountains, flowers and people of tales prefer the serendipity of horizons. The tranquil definition of Art reaches out to the opulence of fashion. Therefore, the diverse ways of designs in the Art of Pashmina are explicit. One of the luxurious designs is the style of Reversible Pashmina. It is also called the "do-rukha". The unique design that is worn on either side. The premium Cashmere is obtained from the Changra Goats and worked upon by the highly skilled artisans. The mesmerising weaves in the Reversible Pashmina style are exquisite. The well defined presence of Reversible Pashmina Style are upto the mark of high luxury.

The Quality Cashmere of Ladakh

The Changra goats of Changhthanghi mountain in Ladakh are the medium sized goats. These are also called Kashmir Goats. They are mainly raised for the production of the finest wool called Cashmere. The Changra goats produce an undercoat of thick wool in the harsh climate of Changhthanghi. The temperature in Changhthanghi goes to minus 20°C. To combat the cold weather, the Changra goats produce the Cashmere wool on their bodies. It is the softest and finest wool of 12 to 16 microns diameter. There are diverse breeds of goats that produce the Cashmere wool in large quantities. But, the finest among all is the Ladakhi Cashmere. Cashmere wool is of the supreme quality. Therefore, crafted in the realms of Kashmir Valley by the premium Art of Pashmina.

Pashmina Art in the Valley of Kashmir

The Cashmere wool reaches the Valley in small packets. It is thoroughly cleaned and dried. The Cashmere Wool is thereupon worked upon by the women of the valley. The premium Cashmere wool is translated to Cashmere yarn by the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous process of transforming the fine Cashmere wool to premium Cashmere yarn. It is done on the wooden wheel called yinder. Hence, the women work diligently over the Cashmere wool to present the high skill of intricacy. The mesmerising beauty of yinder and the whole process befits the elegance of Pashmina Art with precision.

Afterwards, the next step is the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to the premium quality Cashmere fabric. The highly skilled artisans work upon the wooden handlooms in the local workshops or karkhanas. The opulent Cashmere fabric obtained by the precision of artisans is finest. They meticulously work on the handlooms. The generational Art of Pashmina defines their being. They are the masters of the Craft.

Also read: THE STORY OF CASHMERE AND PASHMINA ART

Reversible Pashmina Style

Reversible Pashmina performs the divine exploration of its way of versatile designs. The tremendous designs with definite styles pursue the nature of serenity in its creation. Also, in the form of Reversible patterns as pure Cashmere scarves and wraps, the craft defines its expression of serenity with intricacy. In addition, the Reversible Pashmina Shawls are exquisite and opulent in the eyes of fashion. The detailed expression of creation uniquely defines the tranquil designs.

The enthralling designs in do-rukha called Reversible Pashmina are tremendously exquisite. Therefore, the seasons respond to the explored craft of Pashmina defined by the eyes of artisans who work skillfully with intricacy. The Reversible Pashmina Shawls are your go-to for every occasion of any season of nature.

Reversible Pashmina Shawls

The finest Cashmere taken from the Changthangi mountains of Ladakh bestowed with the spectacular admiration of artisans is also explicit. The premium quality Cashmere undergoes various processes of creativity. Thus, the name of pashmina comes into being from the Persian word, pashm meaning soft gold. The pashms obtained from the fleece of Cashmere underwent several manual procedures to preserve their high quality. Thereupon, the high-quality pashmina Shawl is created with the skilled hands of artisans. The valley bestowed with the world-class artisans of heavenly hands caters to the premium Reversible Pashmina Shawls.

Commonly known as the 'do-rukha'. Reversible Pashmina Shawls explore the weaves on the handloom in a definite style. The versatile designs, motifs over the Cashmere base create a look of traditional accessories. Therefore, these Pashmina Shawls will make you feel loved. The exquisite and explicit virtues of Pashmina Art define the Reversible Pashmina in opulent ways.

Reversible Cashmere Wraps

The undercoat of Changhthanghi Goats gives a new way of sumptuous fashion to the world. The premium Cashmere worked with the intricacy of hands of the artisans is serene in its being. Also, the valley of Kashmir dwells in itself a treasure trove of Pashmina Craft. Therefore, the craft is splendid in its presence. The Cashmere Wraps in the form of Reversible Cashmere style expresses the love of genuineness and tranquillity in the opulence.

Moreover, the premium quality weave in the style of reversible Cashmere is intricate as well as exquisite. The extent of skill nurtures the sphere of Reversible Cashmere in the form of high-quality Cashmere Wraps. The attires crave for their companionship with Reversible Cashmere Wraps as it cherishes the presence with luxury and integrity. Therefore, the lifestyle filled with luxurious fashion caters to the whole fashion world with moments of extreme grace.

A collection of Mesmerising Craft

We, at pashmina.com with the support and ethics of artisans, is exclusively reviving the Craft of Pashmina. The craft is ingenious because of the skilled artisans who work upon every single piece of Pashmina with diligence. Furthermore, Pashmina, finest and high-quality craft revived with its most opulence and premium quality is explicit. Pashmina.com is working their days and nights for the creation of premium quality Pashmina with the most opulent Handcrafts over its presence. Furthermore, the versatile nature of artisans, as well as Pashmina, is the exquisite quality of nature dwelling in these. Reviving and preserving every aspect of nature with the beautiful craft of pashmina is the basic and utmost virtue of our platform.

Also read: THE CHRONICLES OF A KANI SHAWL

As soon as Cashmere scarves became prominent all over the world, the news of their cruelty became even more popular. Many believed that Cashmere is acquired from the goats in a cruel process. What they believe is that the Cashmere goat is stripped of its wool in the winter season, which leads to it dying because of the severe cold the region experiences. The Cashmere goat grows warm wool in the winter season as a defense mechanism against freezing minus 40 degrees Celsius. What many believe is that it is this time when this wool is sheared off their bodies by herders and they die of cold. Is this true? Is Cashmere cruel? Let us find out.

Is Cashmere Cruel?

As half of the world is busy thinking Cashmere is one of the cruelest fabrics in the world, we went out to find the reality, and to our least surprise we found out the answer that we already knew. Cashmere is not cruel. 

Cashmere comes from a goat species called the Capra Hircus goat. It is found on the highest plateaus of the Himalayas. The goat grows fine hair on its body to survive the harsh winter season that the areas experience. This warm coat keeps these animals warm, and the winter is spent comfortably by them. As soon as winter leaves and the Spring season arrives, the goats feel a level of discomfort within themselves, as a result of hormonal changes. They feel warm now, and the same coat which kept them alive in winters, now makes them uncomfortable. Hence they get rid of the same by rubbing their bodies against coarse stones, walls, bushes, etc.

Moreover, the herders feel that their animals are uneasy and immediately call for professional help. Professionals bring along specialized tools and combs, and gently comb the left-out hair on the bodies of the goat. The goat is now free, and what herders collect is precious Cashmere. This is processed and transformed into Cashmere shawls, Cashmere wraps, Cashmere scarves, apparel, furnishing, etc.

What we deduced from this process is that Cashmere is not cruel at all. The hair from the goat’s body is not combed off in winter, but in summers, when they already have gotten rid of much of it.

Which Wool is Cruel?

The confusion was caused because of another type of animal hair which is called Shahtoosh. Shahtoosh wool is acquired from the Tibetan antelope, which is unfortunately killed to acquire its wool. The reason is that the Tibetan antelope is not a domesticated animal. Hence it does not submit to any shearing or combing, and people have to resort to violent methods. They gather a group of these animals near a suitable place, mostly where water reserves are found. The animals come to quench their thirst but are sadly killed by a group of hunters who hide around.

Hence, it is Shahtoosh wool that is cruel, as it involves the killing of the Tibetan antelope. Cashmere on the other hand involves no cruelty at all. After all, why would a herder kill the animal who provides it milk and Cashmere wool during the winter season? Isn't the goat a source of survival for the herder?

What is Veganism?

Veganism is the practice of refraining from the use of products that come from animals. A person who follows the principles of veganism is called a Vegan. Vegans avoid the use of animal-based products in all spheres of their lives. They do not eat or wear animal products and do not even look at something which accounts for cruelty according to them. This includes not eating meat, eggs, or any dairy product for that matter. It also means avoiding silk, wool, snakeskin, fur, feathers, or pearls in the way they dress up or accessorize. It also shows that Vegans do not go to zoos or aquariums. They have different toiletries and even the food they give to their pets is vegan. 

Do Vegans wear Cashmere Scarves?

From the above discussion, we can clearly make out that vegans would never wear Cashmere scarves or garments. Cashmere is not cruel, but it is, after all, an animal product. Hence vegans abstain from using Cashmere, as they believe that all products coming from animals are, on some level, cruelly acquired. 

Also read: 8 Luxury Cashmere Scarves to own this winter

Alternatives to Wool for Vegans

With an abundance of natural and eco-friendly vegan replacements for wool, there is no need for vegans to feel like they do not have proper clothes for any season. Here are some options that vegans have:

• Tencel is made from wood cellulose. It is mostly used to make tops, jumpsuits, trousers and dresses.
• Thanks to organic farming, we have organic cotton which is the best alternative to animal derivatives. 
• Linen needs no chemicals, and offers high resistant apparel, which are soft and gentle for the skin
• Bamboo can be sustainable when grown in the right conditions. 
• Hemp grows without the use of any chemicals or pesticides. It is also biodegradable. 
• Also known as vegetable Cashmere, Soy fabric is the new eco-friendly fabric made from a byproduct of soybean processing. It is believed to be as warm as Cashmere itself, as well as as soft as the same.

Hence by proper research and careful analysis of everything growing around, Vegans too can enjoy the comfort of warmth without using any animal product. Be it winter or summer, vegans too have alternatives, which, at times, seem much better than original ones. 

The Conclusion

This never implies that Cashmere is cruel, or its production is not sustainable in any way. Cashmere processing includes manual labour, and without the use of machines and the harm they possess for the environment, Cashmere scarves can be processed. Manual labour empowers artisans, who solely rely on Cashmere processing for their living. Its procurement from the goat is absolutely uncruel and thoughtful, and no animal is harmed in the process of combing Cashmere from the goat. Cashmere is sustainable, but surely not perfect for vegans who avoid any animal product.

Also read: Sensing the sounds of Kani Shawls

Cashmere is produced in a number of countries all over the world. Nestled in the Himalayas, is the luxury fibre producing goat, the Capra Hircus, which produces Cashmere. The goat can be found in a number of places in the Himalayas. As a result, a large number of countries found around these areas are producers of Cashmere. Shawls, scarves, wraps, apparel, accessories, furnishings, and blankets made of Cashmere can be seen in the markets of so many countries at the same time. But there is a place, where the best of the best is found. A small place, where the world’s finest Cashmere is being produced by the Capra Hircus goat. 

Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere is a rare and precious fibre. The raw material itself is at times called as soft gold, or the diamond fibre. With these amazing qualities, one is really curious about the production of Cashmere around the world . for such individuals, we have researched about the places and along with the percentage of Cashmere they supply to the world

China, Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Pakistan, Nepal and other smaller regions in Asia are the producers of Cashmere, China produces more than 70% of the total Cashmere produce, while Mongolia follows.

Where does pure Cashmere come from

At a place located over 15000 feet, where the temperature falls to minus 40 degrees Celsius, it is hard to believe that something survives. But this vast freezing desert, which lies between the Himalayas and the Karakoram ranges, houses the rarest and exclusive goat breed, the Changthangi goat. The goats are found in a number of colours. White, black, ash, grey, and brown are the colours that these goats mostly feature. This area is Ladakh, situated in North India, and the region is called Changthang. 

High altitude, freezing temperature, cold, and unforgiving winds, and the harsh mountainous regions around help the goat grow a special kind of hair. It is a super soft undercoat that helps the goat survive one of the most severe living conditions. This hair is Cashmere. It is as fine as just 12 to 16 microns in thickness, making it one-fourth of a human hair (which is on an average 50 microns in thickness). This hair is also 8 times warmer than sheep wool. For these reasons, it is considered the most luxurious fibre, and products made from it are world-famous, cherished by the fashionistas and the affluent, and exceptionally elegant to drape.

The Herders of Changthangi Goats

In these inhospitable conditions, it is only the sturdiness and patience of the Buddhist nomadic tribes that stand by these goats. For centuries, these nomads have traveled pasture to pasture with their animals to find better conditions for them to graze and live. It is mainly yak, sheep, and goats that are domesticated by the people. The nomads and their animals together bear these rigid conditions and together give the world one of the most luxurious fibres in the world.

Cashmere is expensive, and we can't argue its legitimacy. As soon as the Spring season arrives, the goats’ moulting period starts and they start losing Cashmere naturally. Some portion left out on their bodies is gently combed off by the herders, thus harvesting the prized Cashmere. One goat produces just 150 grams of Cashmere wool. This is sorted, and bad is separated from good manually. Post sorting, cleaning is done, and this too with laborious, meticulous manual efforts. And after cleaning Cashmere fibre, it is sent for processing to Kashmir. 

In Kashmir, Cashmere is again cleaned, and then hand spinning starts. It is a wooden spinning wheel that facilitates the spinning process. Spinning means transforming chunks of Cashmere wool procured from the goat, into long and fine fibre threads. These are sent for hand weaving, which is equally demanding and hard. 

It takes months, and sometimes years to complete a Cashmere wrap or shawl. If the wrap needs to be embroidered all over the base, then the final product will be ready after 4 to 5 years. Solid pashmina scarves made from Cashmere are ready in weeks. Again depending upon the size, large shawls take more time than small scarves or mufflers. 

Which country has the best Cashmere?

We are often asked, "Where is Cashmere from? China and Mongolia are the largest producers of Cashmere. Other than these, Cashmere comes from Iran, Afghanistan, and Pakistan. The best quality Cashmere comes from North India, Ladakh. Even though Ladakh contributes to less than 1% of the total production of Cashmere, this is the best quality Cashmere ever. 

The same wool from other countries is not as fine and as warm as Ladakhi Cashmere. The reason is just the climatic conditions. Ladakhi goats suffer a lot before growing the world’s finest Cashmere on their bodies. If the same Ladakhi goat is transported to an area just a few miles down the plateau, it is believed that the goat produces thicker hair. The same goes for the goats found in other areas of the Himalayan range. Their hair is thicker and less warm, whereas the Changthangi goat of Ladakh has the best Cashmere. As such, Cashmere scarves and wraps from Kashmir, are the world’s highest quality products, with no comparison at all. 

Also read: Woven Grace of Cashmere Wraps

Who discovered Cashmere in Ladakh?

It was a traveler and saint from Persia, who first visited Ladakh, and found this soft and warm hair growing on the local goat's body. He ordered its herders to get it processed and make a pair of socks from it. The socks were presented to the then ruler of the Kashmir valley, who was highly impressed by its warmth, softness, and luxurious touch. He ordered processing units to be set up for processing Cashmere. This was the beginning of the Cashmere trade between Ladakh and Kashmir valley. 

The trade never remained local but spread all over the world. Raw Material from Ladakh reached Kashmir where it would be processed into shawls, scarves, and mufflers. These products would then be exported to Europe, India, and many smaller regions all over the world. Europeans were, especially, swooned by the beauty of the fabric. In fact, Empress Josephine, the then-style icon of France, wife of Emperor Napoleon, owned a few hundred Cashmere shawls during her lifetime. 

Cashmere was, and still is, a royal fabric. In the past, royals would give Cashmere wraps as gifts to each other, and to the rulers of neighboring countries, which meant an agreement. Even now, either the most affluent, or the true patrons of art and culture own these wraps. As such, Cashmere too adapted to modern needs and came out of the embroidery bubble. Now Cashmere wraps from Ladakh, India, can be seen in animal prints, LGBTQ prints, stripes, and tartan checks, to suit the modern needs of women. Even men have started to understand the same and hence invest heavily in Men Ladakhi Shawls. 

Also read: Turning the ways for the pledge of finest Cashmere

Types of Cashmere shawls found in Kashmir

Kashmir is the focal point as far as pure Cashmere is concerned. It is a hub for the best quality Cashmere shawls and scarves. The finest and the most warm Cashmere shawls are found in the bylanes of downtown Kashmir, where colours and shades of these Cashmere wraps steal hearts. There are a number of varieties that the makers of Cashmere shawls present to the customers. Here are some of the types of Cashmere shawls that one will find in Kashmir.

Embroidered Shawls

Hand embroidered shawls are the most common variety of shawls that one will find in Kashmir. These shawls were the first ones to be produced in the valley, especially during the reign of the Mughals. A number of embroidery types have been famous in Kashmir. Sozni embroidery, Tilla Dozi, Paper Mache embroidery are a few to name.

Solid Shawls

For those who want to try a new Cashmere shawl, solid shawls are perfect. These are the cheapest with no embellishment, and like embroidered shawls, these are the first ones to be ever produced. Solid shawls are versatile, as these can be worn with western apparel as well as local cultural dresses.

Printed or Patterned Shawls

Printed shawls are the ones which hosts modern as well as contemporary prints on its base. While as patterned shawls can be striped, checkered, tartan designed or more. These shawls are more recent when compared to embroidered or plain shawls and modern women love to wear these with western dresses and contemporary outfits.

Kani Shawls

Perhaps the most glamorous of all Cashmere shawls in Kashmir are the Kani shawls. The high desirability and high price of Kani shawls owes to the way they are prepared. Kani shawls are prepared by the highly skilled artisans of Kashmir, where they introduced colorful threads in between the warps of a shawl. This way, colorful motifs embellish the base of these shawls and make them one of a kind.

Ombre and Swarovski

Recent developments and desirability amongst young women led artisans to adapt to modern techniques, and introduce these even in the making of Pashmina. As such, some began to experimenting with colours (Ombre shawls) and some embellished the shawls with beautiful studs (Swarovski studded Shawls). These modern design shawls became overly famous and celebrities all over the world desired and owned the same. These shawls can be paired with western apparel, and one can look utterly charming wearing them.

Where does Cashmere clothing come from?

Be it online shopping websites or a retail store, Cashmere should be best purchased from Kashmir. This is because Kashmiri Cashmere shawls or scarves are the finest, most warm and the best quality. Here are some more reasons why Cashmere is the best when purchased from Kashmir

1. Kashmiri Cashmere comes from Ladakh which is considered the best quality Cashmere. Fine wool from Ladakh grows on the Changthangi goat, which is known to grow the finest hair
2. Kashmiri Cashmere is processed manually. There is no intervention of a machine whatsoever, when it comes to weaving a Kashmiri Cashmere. Traditional looms are used to weave Cashmere threads into fabric, and result is the finest shawls and scarves.
3. When spun, Kashmiri Cashmere transform to threads which are as fine as 12 to 16 microns. That makes it one fourth of a human hair. Hence Cashmere from Kashmir is the finest and the most lightweight of all varieties found in the world.
4. It is the utmost skillful hands and meticulous efforts of Kashmiri craftsmen and women besides their decades of experience that makes Kashmiri Cashmere special and unique.
5. Cashmere from Kashmir was the one that was desirable by European and Indian rulers to the maximum limit. So much so, that they owned hundreds of pieces. Apart from wearing Cashmere, these noble men and women decorated their royal courts with Kashmiri Cashmere. This was their highest regard for the art form.

Concluding

When asked "Where does Cashmere clothing come from"?, our fabric specialists always answer "Kashmir". This is because they never want anyone to miss out the opportunity to wear Kashmiri Cashmere at least once in their life. Raw Cashmere comes from Ladakh, but is painstakingly processed in Kashmir where generations of artisans are associated with this art form since decades.

We, at Pashmina.com, would love to introduce Kashmiri Cashmere to you in its best quality and appearance. Shawls, scarves and wraps from our assortments are luxurious and immensely beautiful. These have been handcrafted for days, months or even for years. Kani shawls and Embroidered Jamawar shawls from our collections are masterpieces, and some have taken 4 to 5 years to complete.

Cashmere from our luxury collections is sustainably handcrafted. There are no cases of animal cruelty whatsoever, as far as our Cashmere collection is concerned. Moreover, fair wages, timely wages and better than the best compensations are paid to the artisans who put their heart and soul into each piece they craft. Besides showing gratefulness to these artisans, we show them that their contributions to the art of Cashmere shawl making doesn't go waste and that their handcrafted shawls deserve an international recognition.

From the sphere of Ladakh, fine wool called Cashmere is obtained. The soft and fine wool is crafted in the realms of Kashmir Valley. The valley cherishes the presence of fine Cashmere wool by adorning with the Art of Pashmina. The Art of Pashmina includes the unique dimension of styles like Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls. The diversity and versatility of Pashmina Art confer to the fashion world with luxurious crafting. The Artisans of the valley work in the Pashmina Art and pour soul into the finest Cashmere.

The finest Cashmere from Ladakh

The Changra goats dwell under the feet of the Changhthanghi mountain of Ladakh. The breed of goats that produce the premium quality Cashmere is the Changra goats. They are also known as Kashmir goats. The goats live in the minimum temperature of winter in Changthanghi, Ladakh. For that, they produce a thick wool coat on their bodies. The wool helps them to combat the cold. Eventually, seasons change and the Changra Goats shed off their undercoats in summer to feel the fresh air. The wool is called fine Cashmere wool. It is also manually combed out by the Changpa tribe herders.

Also, the Changra goats produce the finest wool. It is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. The Ladakhi Cashmere is regarded as the finest Cashmere among all. There are other regions that produce Cashmere wool on a large scale.

The Pashmina Art of Kashmir Valley

The Pashmina Art begins as soon as the packed tufts of Cashmere wool reach the horizons of the Kashmir Valley. Thus, the initial step is the cleaning of the tufts of Cashmere wool. Then, thoroughly cleaned to get the pure Cashmere wool. Afterward, it's soaked and dried. The clean and dried Cashmere wool, transferred to the next step called spinning is finest. The local households are assigned for the process of spinning. The Spinning, mainly done by the women of the household is profound. They meticulously translate the Cashmere wool to fine Cashmere yarn. The process is done on the wooden wheel called yinder in the local language. The spinning process takes a good amount of time to get the finest Cashmere yarns.

Afterward, the Cashmere yarn, transferred to the next step of weaving is fine. Weaving is the profound step of Pashmina Art. Weaving, ne by male artisans is profound. It is done on the handlooms set up at local workshops or Karkhanas. The weaving process, done intricately is to get the premium Cashmere fabric for further steps of Pashmina Art. Weaving is meticulous and requires high skill. The artisans of the Kashmir Valley have the high skill from generations.

The back dates of Pashmina Art

Pashmina, the distinct grade of Cashmere has a unique journey. It dates back to the 15th century in the Kashmir Valley of India. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen. He adorned the beauty of the valley and spreaded the holy message. The saint landed its appearance in the Changthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvelous wool. Awestruck with the softness of the wool, he made socks out of it. Thereafter, gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles. Even the name Pashmina, derived from the Persian word, pashm, meaning "the soft gold" is exquisite in being.

Afterward, the craftsmen taught the Art of Pashmina to the people of Kashmir. Till now, the most highly skilled artisans in the original Pashmina Art are artisans of Kashmir.

Also read: The Kashmiri shawl: Early History and Literature

Exquisite Cashmere Scarves

Cashmere Scarves are exquisitely fine accessories of the Pashmina Art. The Cashmere Scarves cater to the world of fashion with numerous designs. Cashmere Scarves belong to a class of high-class fashion. Therefore, the high-end fashion with Cashmere Scarves will supremely define the unique designs. Cashmere Scarves for men as well as women befits the luxurious sense of elegance. Also, the rich colour of Cashmere Scarves profoundly defines the entities of elegance and luxury.

Exquisite Cashmere Wraps

The unique presence of Cashmere Wraps around your body will provide adequate warmth. The beautiful creation of Cashmere Wraps belongs to the clan of originality. Also, the explicit Cashmere Wraps confer to the diverse designs. The supremely crafted Cashmere Wraps exclusively cater to the heritage of the Kashmir Valley. The supreme collection also befits every gender in every season. Therefore, the authenticity of the Cashmere Wraps seen in every masterpiece of the Cashmere accessory is evident.

Also read: Pashmina - Creation beyond existence

Exquisite Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina Shawls are traditional accessories. The versatile nature of Pashmina Art, delivered from the royal ages to the contemporary age is serene. The Pashmina Shawls, intricately woven are explicit. Thus, belonging to the clan of purity and marvelous skill. Pashmina Shawls confer to the tranquil being of Pashmina Art. Therefore, the diverse designs of patterns, motifs, weaves, and embroideries prefer the realms of Pashmina Art. Also, the uniqueness preserves the extraordinary elegance of the Pashmina Shawls. Thus, the artisans work endlessly on each and every masterpiece of Pashmina Shawls.

The Exuberant Collection of Pashmina Art

We, at pashmina.com, define the unique craft of Pashmina. The mesmerizing and divine virtue of Pashmina Art, seen in each and every masterpiece is explicit. Thus, the artisans work miraculously on every Pashmina Art accessory. The supreme collection at our online platform, directly taken from the workshops of Kashmir Valley is exuberant. Therefore, having one of the masterpieces will enhance the beauty of your being with elegance and luxury.

Also read: The Art of Luxury Gifting: Cashmere

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Ladakhi Cashmere in the sphere of Kashmir Valley. The fine Cashmere accessories are curated with precision and diligence by skilled artisans. The unique crafting includes several steps. The processes confer to the high skill of artisans. With designs, there are three main styles of fine Cashmere accessories. They are Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls. The diverse designs include many forms in these styles. One of the design forms is the Kani Pashmina Style. Kani Pashmina style in Pashmina Art flourishes in the category of Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. The Kani Pashmina, an intricate weave precisely done by small sticks called Kanis is exquisite. The intricate weave is the pure masterpiece of Art.

From the finest Cashmere of Ladakh

The finest Cashmere, obtained from the rarest breed of goats is pure. They are called Changra goats. These are also called Kashmir goats. The goats are medium in size and have two twisted horns. They graze mainly on grass. And they are herded by the Changpa tribe of Changhthanghi.The Changthanghi region goes to minus 20°C in winter. Therefore, the goats develop thick wool to protect themselves from the harsh cold. Gradually, the seasons change so does the temperature. These Changra goats naturally shed the wool against rocks and trees. The wool is known as fine cashmere wool. The Changpa tribe herders manually also comb out the Cashmere wool. Therefore, the production starts.

The Ladakhi Cashmere wool is the finest Cashmere wool of all. Although, there is a diverse breed of goats that produce Cashmere wool. But the Ladakhi Cashmere wool is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Hence, the finest Cashmere around the world. The production quantity is low in comparison to other breeds because the Changra goats are the rarest. They are only found in the Changhthanghi, Ladakh.

The Crafting of finest Cashmere for Kani Pashmina

The Pashmina Art starts as soon as the Cashmere wool reaches the valley of Kashmir. The Cashmere wool is cleaned to remove all the impurities. Thereafter, the cleaned Cashmere wool is soaked and dried in the natural sunshine. The next procedure is to transfer the Cashmere wool to local households for the process of spinning. The Spinning process, mainly done by the women of the households needs diligence. They meticulously spin the Cashmere wool to fine Cashmere yarn. The spinnin, done on a wooden wheel called yinder in the local language is efficiently done. The unique precise Spinning requires the patience and skill to transform the Cashmere wool to fine Cashmere yarn.

After the Spinning process, the next process is the weaving. Weaving is the formation of warps and wefts by using the fine Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. Weaving is done on the handloom made of forest wood. Also, mainly done by male artisans. High skill and precision are required in the process of weaving. In the style of Kani Pashmina, the whole presentation is created by the process of weave. Kani is the intricate weave done on the handloom by highly skilled artisans. The artisans work miraculously over each and every piece of Kani Pashmina.

Kani Pashmina

The Kani Pashmina, originated in the era of 3000 B.C is lifelong Art. Mughals have been into its intricate designs and exquisite presence from that century of time. The Kani word belongs to the dialect of the Kashmiri language. Also, it has roots in the place of Kanihama, Ganderbal. Moreover, the name also belongs to the meaning of small twig-like sticks in the local language called Kanis.

After the procurement of the finest Cashmere, spinning, and weaving occurs. The weaving of Kani Pashmina is not the simple weaving usually done in Pashmina Art. It is the most intricate weave that performs with the Kanis/ small twigs.Thus, creating a marvelous design on the finest Cashmere base. Before commencing the weaving, the Pashmina Shawls specifically given pattern on graph paper are ready. Not like other styles of shawls where the patterns are imprinted in the base of the shawl itself.For each pattern known as, “Taleem”, the codes, written on the graph paper are given to local people. The artisans read and understand the codes and start the weaving process with precision.

Performance of Kani Weave

Afterwards, the fine Cashmere fabric reaches the handlooms in local workshops/karkhanas. The weaving begins by whirling the colourful threads around the Kanis making small spindles. The artisans skillfully do the weave with their hands. They work upon the handloom by using their hands by moving their spindles of threads accordingly. A particular number of Kanis, used for the weaving of one Kani shawl are definite. Around 70 to 100 Kanis, used up for the design of one Kani Pashmina Shawl are explicit.

Also, the arrangement of the Kanis on the shawls and the high skill of artisans perform meticulously to create the intricate designs. The weaving, done gradually and when a different colour or shade is required as per the Taleem, two Kanis are used together. Likewise, the process continues with diligence until the preparation of Kani Shawl.

Kani Pashmina Shawls

Kani Pashmina Shawls are the luxurious exquisite accessories that adorn the presence. The Kani Pashmina Shawls, an intricately designed Pashmina Shawls by the hands of artisans are artworks. The intricate and rich weave of Kani Pashmina Shawls belongs to the high skill of artisans. The handloom sings with the notes of Kanis and flourishes the music of luxury in each and every weave. The mesmerizing weave confers to the fashion world with intricate and hand-crafted Cashmere. The Finest Cashmere from Ladakh, used for the inception of Kani Pashmina Shawls is pure. The Kani Pashmina Shawls can be worn in any attire. Therefore, these provide adequate warmth and glory. They cater to all genders with profound elegance. Wearing a Kani Pashmina Shawl signifies your presence on any occasion. The designs confer to the traditional motifs and tales. Thus, the marvelous luxury of premium Kani Pashmina Shawl is unmatchable.

Also read: Kashmiri Shawl - a Symbol of Elegance

Kani Cashmere Wraps

The diverse styles include the Kani wraps. The Kani wraps finely crafted wraps from the pure Ladakhi Cashmere are explicit. The divine creation of Kani wraps presents the marvelous weave of Kani. Thus, wraps, used as outer clothing to cover the upper body are essencially divine. In traditional as well as contemporary times, the Kani wraps used profoundly for style and elegance are glorious. Thus, worn on any day of any season with glamour. The rich designs of motifs from the heritage of the Kashmir Valley enliven the essence of nature. Therefore, the intricate weave in Kani Wraps prefers the beauty of luxury in every way. Also, the unique features of Kani wraps confer to all the genders with tremendous elegance.

A stop for the marvelous Collection of Kani Pashmina

We, at pashmina.com, have premium quality Kani Pashmina accessories. In addition, we confer to the collection of high-quality Pashmina Art for the world. The unique and mesmerizing Pashmina Art accessories whirl around our platform for ethical crafting. We support the artisans of the Kashmir valley. Therefore, each masterpiece has directly taken from the lap of highly skilled artisans. In addition, the intricate and profound skill of artisans with the heritage of Kashmir Valley presents the Pashmina Art. Therefore, having one of the masterpieces will enhance the luxury of your style in numerous ways.

Also read: Cashmere-The dawn of Pashmina Art

In the mountains of Changhthanghi Ladakh, the finest Cashmere is born. The unique features of the soft wool indulge in the enlivening of the art called Pashmina Art. Starting the journey in one meticulous region and ending its journey in every facet of the sphere of the world is explicit. The fine wool starts its journey in the horizons of Ladakh and grooms its journey in the Valley of Kashmir. The exquisite journey of Cashmere is surrounded by divine artisans in the valley of Kashmir.

Cashmere from the Changra Goats

It all starts in the realms of Changhthanghi mountain of Ladakh. The temperature goes to a minimum in winter. A rare breed of goats lives in the minus temperature. They are called Changra goats. These goats develop thick wool on their bodies to combat the harsh winter. Eventually, seasons change. In summers, the Changra goats shed off the thick wool against rocks and trees due to heat in the air. The wool is also manually combed out by the herders. The herders of the Changpa tribe manually comb out the wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. It is the softest and finest wool. The wool is further crafted in the horizons of Kashmir Valley in the name of Pashmina Art.

Cashmere in the realms of Kashmir Valley

The fine Ladakhi Cashmere is crafted in the Kashmir Valley by the Art of Pashmina. Therefore, the Pashmina Art is the curation of the finest wool from Ladakh. There are several breeds in the world that produce Cashmere. Yet, the finest Cashmere is produced only in the region of Ladakh. It is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Thus, the finest of all. Also, this fine wool is crafted to produce several accessories. Therefore, the accessories from the finest Cashmere are luxuriously defined and crafted.

After the finest wool reaches the valley of Kashmir, it undergoes the process of cleaning. The fine wool is thoroughly cleaned to get the dirt, dust, and grime out. After the meticulous cleaning, the wool goes into the journey of spinning. The process of transforming the wool into fine yarn is spinning. The process is precisely done by the womenfolk of the valley on a wooden wheel called yinder. They move the wheel in a circular motion with one hand and with another hand, they long the wool into yarn. Thus, creating fine yarn from the Cashmere wool.

Further, the next step is the process of weaving. Weaving is the transformation of yarn to the finest Cashmere fabric. The fine fabric is worked upon by highly skilled artisans to present the opulent Art of Pashmina. The weaving process is done on the handloom made of forest wood. The handloom is worked upon by highly skilled artisans. They meticulously craft the premium yarn to fine fabric.

Designing in Pashmina Art

The fine fabric is moved further with precision. Thus, highly skilled artisans work meticulously to groom the fine fabric. The diverse designs in Pashmina Art groom the finest Cashmere. All the designs pertain to a variety of transitions in heritage. The heritage truly blesses the soul of the finest wool of Ladakh. First of all the design caters to three different styles.

• Cashmere Scarves
• Cashmere Wraps
• Pashmina Shawls

These styles confer to the unique way of crafting the finest wool. The Cashmere from the undercoat of Changra goats. The goats are also known as Kashmir Goats. The Changra goats shed off the fine wool in summer. Thus, the fine wool is translated to fine fabric in the Kashmir Valley. After the crafting of fine Cashmere Fabric, it is given its ideal dimensions according to the styles.

Fine Cashmere Scarves

Cashmere Scarves are accessories worn as the style statement in every season. Cashmere Scarves cater to both genders. Thus, it is a versatile and stylish option for your look. Thus, Cashmere Scarves are highly premium. They enhance opulence in contemporary ways. They celebrate every generation with the clamor of luxury and glory.

Fine Cashmere Wraps

Cashmere Wraps are generally worn as outer clothing. The Cashmere Wraps are highly fashionable. They are wonderfully crafted in the horizons of Kashmir Valley. Thus, the Cashmere Wraps belong to the clan of authenticity and purity. The diverse designs in Wraps perform well with every attire. Thus, the overall fashion look with Cashmere Wraps confers the serenity of opulence.

Also read: 7 cool ways to drape Pashmina Wraps

Premium Pashmina Shawls

The Premium Pashmina Shawls serve fashion with eloquent designs. The luxurious crafting of fine wool from the region of Ladakh creates the premium Pashmina Shawls. Also, it is all catered by the Art of Pashmina. Therefore, the crafting of fine wool to several styles and designs in the Valley of Kashmir is the Pashmina Art. Therefore, the artisans have worked meticulously over a period of time to master the Pashmina Art. Generations of artisans have worked towards the revival of the exquisite Art of Pashmina.

Supreme Pashmina Art Collection

We, at pashmina.com, acquaint the fashion world with an exquisite collection of Pashmina Art. We have sustainably crafted the finest Cashmere. The unique features of each masterpiece are explicit. The well-defined eloquent features resemble the heritage of Kashmir Valley. Thus, the artisans have worked in the Art of Pashmina for ages. Surrounded by the divine heavenly nature, Pashmina Art flies in the air of craft. Premium wool is transformed into fine accessories because of the high skill of artisans. Hence, the opulent presence of each and every masterpiece requires the skill of the artisans and heritage of the Kashmir valley.

Also read: The Pashmina Wraps - A Journey from Kashmir to Asia & Europe

If you own a real Pashmina shawl, then you must consider yourself opportune. It is a luxury and has been a dream possession of royal kings and queens, and nobles of the courts of ancient times. Across all genders, races, nationalities, and cultures, Pashmina was cherished like the rarest asset. In fact, it was a rare asset owing to its acquisition, looks, and price as well. For this reason, Pashmina shawls traveled from narrow lanes of Kashmir to the largest fashion outlets in Europe.

For this reason, Kashmiri artisans too lived like kings. They would be revered all over the world and hence invited to foreign places, especially England and South Africa, where Pashmina gained more acclaim. Kashmiri artisans would train local artisans at these places in embroidery, hand weaving, and other skills. This was especially the treatment given to Pashmina artisans. Everyone would love to hear and learn more about Pashmina, which in turn increased the demand for the product, and honoured its makers, manifold.  

Times changed, preferences changed

The acclaim and glory were not long-lived, and times fell hard on the art. The people who lived luxurious lives, the artisans, now began to feel useless in society. Demands for plunged and cheaper copies rose to fame. Fraudulently, traders sold fake Pashmina in the market, which would lose their grace after a couple of washes. This brought a bad name to the entire art of Pashmina and customers stopped buying the same. 

Pashmina - the hands behind its making

Pashmina is the fine art of transforming raw Cashmere wool into luxury apparel and accessories. It grows on the underbelly of a rare goat species of Ladakh. The Changthangi goat grows Cashmere over its body as a defense mechanism against the freezing cold the region experiences in winter. The moulting season in late spring and early summer leads the goat to naturally shed this coating, which herders collect and get processed into luxury apparel and wraps. Hence shawls, scarves, sweaters, dresses, and accessories like socks, handkerchiefs, and pocket squares are handcrafted out of it. 

Since the processing is manual, it takes much time to complete. For solid scarves and shawls, 4 to 5 days are enough. But for Kani shawls or a full embroidery Jamawar shawl, craftsmen spend years together. This sometimes proves to be a disadvantage, as customers do not like to wait. And perhaps this was the reason why fraudsters got the opportunity of introducing fake Pashmina shawls in the market, which were made in just a few hours, if not days. We are talking about the products of the power loom.

Power loom, and the death of the original Pashmina 

The demand for Pashmina shawls exceeded their supply. However, since every process related to the completion of a shawl was manual, it took months or even years to finish. The only option left for traders to make shawls at a faster pace emerged to be the use of machines. Power looms were introduced in Pashmina. The same shawl handmade in 3 to 4 days, would be made in minutes now. This, although, resulting in more production of Pashmina, diminished its quality multifold.

The shawls are handmade, crafted from Cashmere, whose fibre diameter is just 12-16 microns. This makes the fibre exceptionally fine and delicate. When this fibre was passed through the power loom, the machine strain broke it in seconds. Hence, Cashmere fibre began to be mixed with a strengthening fibre, like silk or nylon and then passed through the machine. This silk or nylon amalgam was treated with a chemical, which consumed the foreign threads, and Cashmere remained. But this chemical-treated Cashmere lost life, and a shawl that would last for a lifetime lasted for a few years. Besides, the chemical didn't always help and some foreign threads remained in a Pashmina shawl, leaving it impure.

This brought a halt in the entire Pashmina industry, and the art, as well as its artisans, lost respect and demand. Handloom artisans were jobless. Customers went for fake shawls, not knowing the reality of their processing, and handloom artisans suffered brutally at the hands of the power loom.

Also read: Handmade Pashmina vs Machine Made Pashmina - The Difference

Pashmina and its reputation

Not aware of the ground problem, customers concluded that all types of Pashmina shawls are the same, and hence fake. The reason behind this conclusion was that the same shawls that lasted a lifetime withered in a few years. This happened to most of the customers, and the industry experienced a shakeout, while its artisans experienced serious financial issues. Only local Kashmiri women knew real Pashmina makers and shopped directly from them. But on national and international levels, Pashmina shawl demand reduced from half to almost nil. These customers believed that real Pashmina doesn't even exist now.

What is real Pashmina?

Call it authentic, pure, or certified, real is the one made from pure Cashmere, acquired from the Himalayas. The Himalayan ranges house an exotic variety of goats. This goat is called the Changthangi goat. The Changthangi goat sheds its outer coat in its moulting season, which begins in Spring. This wool, after shedding, is collected by herders, who send it for processing to Kashmir. 

Processing starts with cleaning the wool and sorting it. Later it is sent for spinning, and then hand weaving takes place. This results in a handcrafted Pashmina shawl, scarf, or wrap, which is real and original. There is no inference of a machine whatsoever. Pure Pashmina is fine, soft, smooth, and immensely warm. This type of shawl has a life of more than 20-25 years.

On the other hand, fake shawls are not as warm. They have an artificially shining surface and last for a few years. These are the same shawls, that are passed through a machine, mixed with foreign strengthening threads, and hence compromised on the basis of quality. Fake shawls are cheap, as there is less quantity of Cashmere in them.

It takes the experience of a person to differentiate between pure and fake Pashminas. Some tests have, however, been devised to check the purity of a shawl. Here are some of them:

Burn Test

Burning a piece from the fringes of a Pashmina should give the same pungent smell that burnt human hair gives. Cashmere is a natural fibre and should smell the same upon catching fire. In addition to this, the ash post-burning should turn into a powdery substance. 

Uneven weave of the shawl

If you hold your real Pashmina shawl high against sunlight or any light source, you will notice an uneven weave, which is natural to human hands. Machine weaves are symmetrical and regular, while handcrafted shawls have irregular weave patterns.

Pilling Test

Even though we hate piling in clothes, in Pashmina this is a good sign. Real one will pile. This is because these are crafted from natural fibre, which pills necessarily. But if there is nylon or silk mixed with it, the shawl will never pill at all. 

Comfort Test

Original, and real Pashmina is comfortable to wear. It doesn't cause itching or rashes. 

What is the price of a Real Pashmina shawl?

Real Pashmina is expensive when compared to cheaper, fake copies of the same. The real price of an original Pashmina shawl, however, depends on a number of factors. Some of them are:

Ply

The density of Cashmere fibre used to craft a shawl is called ply. Single-ply Pashmina shawls are those where Cashmere thread is handwoven in its single form. Double-ply, also called two-ply shawls, are those where the Cashmere thread is doubled. This makes the shawl more sturdy and, to some extent, immune against harsh treatment. Two-ply shawls are more expensive. Single-ply shawls are somewhat sheer in texture, exceptionally fine, and delicate.

Yarn count

Yarn count is the count of the meters of yarn spun per gram. The more yarn count, the more quantity of yarn is included in a gram. Hence more yarn count means the shawl is finer and more delicate. A 100-count Pashmina shawl means one gram of the shawl incorporates 100 meters of Cashmere. How soft and gooey would this fibre be?

Fibre thickness

During spinning, if the fibre used is thick, i.e, around 20 microns, the shawl would be less fine, and thicker than usual. This shawl, even though it would be pure Pashmina, is less expensive. If yarn measures 12-15 microns, this shawl would be exceptionally fine and delicate, and hence more expensive.

Weaving Patterns

There isn't just one weaving pattern, but a number of them, which too determine the price of a real Pashmina. Diamond weave shawls are the most expensive, followed by twill and basketweave. Jacquard weave shawls are chosen in solid shawls which are ideal for weddings, gifts, and perfect bridesmaid wear.

In general, Pashmina shawls in their solid essence would cost around $300, patterned and printed go up to $350, embroidered shawls range from $800 to $10000 or more. The world-popular Kani shawl value ranges from $1200 to $5000 or more. This is just an average. The values might be lesser, or far greater than the above-mentioned.

How much should I pay for Pashmina in India?

The price of a Pashmina in India can vary widely depending on factors such as the quality of the Pashmina wool, the intricacy of the design, the craftsmanship, and the authenticity of the product. Authentic, high-quality Pashmina shawls that are handwoven and made from pure Pashmina wool can range from a few thousand Indian Rupees to several tens of thousands, especially if they are intricately designed or have unique features. It's important to be cautious of extremely low-priced Pashmina products, as they may not be genuine or of good quality. When purchasing a Pashmina in India, it's advisable to do thorough research, buy from reputable sources, and ensure that the product comes with proper certification or labeling to guarantee its authenticity.

Also read: Luxury Gifting | Unique Cashmere Gifts

When Pashmina spread its wings all across the globe, it was the Jamawar shawls that were considered the most premium. Exquisite was considered as an understatement for these Jamawar shawls, which were so laden with embroidery that the base was hardly visible. These were usually Sozni embroidered shawls which were also popular as Sozni shawls. 

The Underlying Pashmina base

Pashmina is the fine art of handcrafting luxury shawls, scarves, and wraps from fine Cashmere wool. Cashmere is the undercoat of a Ladakhi goat, which was discovered in the 15th century by a Persian traveller. The traveller was the Sufi saint Shah E Hamdan, the same religious scholar, who brought all kinds of handicrafts to Kashmir from Persia. He discovered Cashmere in Ladakh and ordered socks to be made out of it. The socks were so soft, warm, and luxurious that the king ordered processing units of Cashmere to be set up in Kashmir. 

Soon Cashmere wool was largely processed in Kashmir in huge quantities, and thousands of plain shawls were manufactured. But after some time, plain shawls were embellished with embroidery patterns, which too were taught by the Persian trainers to the locals. Since Pashmina shawls were lightweight and delicate, a more delicate form of embroidery thread had to be chosen to embroider it. Hence, sozni embroidery was chosen as the first of its kind, since its thread was feathery, light, and fine.

Sozni embroidery Artisans

The craftsmen of Sozni embroidery are men and women from the villages of Kashmir valley who were mostly farmers. Since Kashmir has always been an agriculturally rich place, most of the people in the villages are involved in fruit, vegetable, cereal, and animal farming. But farming is not a 365-day activity, as farms are full of snow in winters. Hence, the farmers turn into sozni embroidery artisans in winters and embroider shawls, stoles, apparel, and other fabrics. 

Nevertheless, it should never be believed that since these artisans are farmers, they might not do justice with embroidery. The farmers are utmostly skilled and experienced embroidery artisans and hand-make such designs which are difficult to follow even for the eyes. 

What is Sozni?

Sozni is a specialized and one of the most sophisticated forms of hand embroidery in the world. This exceptionally fine, delicate, and artistic form of needlework is only practiced in Kashmir and has no comparison anywhere in the world. 

Steps of making a Sozni shawl 

Sozni embroidery on a shawl is done in a number of steps. Here is the detail of each one of them.

Preparing the design

A design is prepared by the designer (locally called Naqash), which is to be embroidered on the shawl. The designer draws it on graph paper using geometrical techniques. 

Carving a wooden block for Stamping

On the basis of the design that is made by the designer, a local walnut wooden block shop is visited to choose from a large variety of wooden stamps. If the design is new, a fresh block of wood is carved as per the design, which doesn't happen too often. 

The blocks which have been carved decades ago are still used for stamping as motifs hardly change. Different blocks are used for the borders and different for the centre.

Stamping the sozni shawl

The wooden block used for stamping is dipped in chemical ink, and the shawl is stamped with a design carefully by a master craftsman. Printing is done carefully so that just an imprint remains for embroidery. Stamping the shawl should be done by the steady hands of experienced craftsmen and Kashmiri artisans are no less than perfectionists in this process. 

The stamped shawl is passed on to a master artisan, who approves of it, and chooses the colours to be used for embroidery.

Embroidering the shawl

Sozni embroidery is considered a symbol of an artist’s perseverance, dedication, and skill. To embroider a Pashmina shawl in sozni, single-needle and thread are needed so that it becomes lightweight and fine. The embroidery requires massive hard work and concentration of the master embroidery artist. It is pure passion, and artisans claim that the time when they do Sozni work is their best time of the day!

The process of embroidery starts. Threads are chosen in silk and the base is Pashmina. The motifs usually are flowers, creepers, paisleys, and chinar leaves. Embroidered Pashmina shawls vary from each other as far as the density of embroidery is concerned. Thick all-over patterns are called Sozni Jamawar shawls, while those with loosely embroidered motifs are called Sozni Jaalidaar. The stitch can be open chain, couching, buttonhole, or the famous herringbone stitch locally called Kashmiri stitch. 

Sozni Shawls - a heritage in itself

The confluence of Pashmina shawls and sozni embroidery is timeless. Their relevance has only grown with time.  Sozni embroidery is classic and that is what makes a Sozni Pashmina shawl the regal accessory that it is. It takes each shawl a few months to complete and sometimes five or six years, based on the embroidery density. The deliberately slow pace and the utmost precision of the craftsman ensure excellence as well as perfection. 

Even though, embroidery artisans must sit with their workpieces for a period of 6-8 hours every day, yet they love their work the most. Usually, artisans work from a usual 9-6 on a daily basis, with proper breaks. In this time, they can even fit 500 stitches per square centimeter of the shawl.

The process of making a Sozni embroidered Pashmina is a conscientious one. Sometimes the embroidery patterns are so dense that the Pashmina base is barely visible, and such shawls take 5 years to complete. In this process, sometimes a colour chosen for embroidery does not produce the desired effect. This stitch is undone and redone. Yet the artisans never get disinterested and work with as much vigor as they have on the very first day.

Post Embroidery

After a shawl is complete after the hard work of artisans, it is sent for washing. Since the shawl has already taken a few years to complete, it is necessary to wash it. The final washing of the shawl is done in Spring waters. Mild detergents are used, and the shawl is struck again and again against a smooth stone. Note that the washer of Pashmina shawls is different from the rest of the washers in the valley. It is a professional and labour intensive process that needs free-flowing water and many tough hands to manage. Later the shawls are dried in open grounds. There are no indoor spaces for drying Pashmina shawls. 

Now the shawl is complete. It is given a number of finishing touches like cutting fringes, removal of any foreign material, etc. Now the shawl is ironed and packed to be sold out in the markets. 

Workshops and factories of Sozni shawls

Sozni Kari is usually done by a group of men and women in home-based workshops. Some shawls are given to artisans to work on them from their respective homes. For large setups, men and women have to gather at a karkhana (factory) and work together in groups. This is a casual group, and random conversations take place between the members while having tea and lunch together. 

A mere photograph does absolutely no justice to a perfectly crafted Pashmina shawl. One has to see it closely, feel it with bare hands, glare at their labyrinthine patterns, and then realise what treasure these are. Safe to say - a shawl is nothing less than a heritage in the making. 

Also read: Pashmina - Creation beyond existence

Pashmina refers to the fine art of handcrafting luxury shawls, scarves, and wraps out of Cashmere wool. Cashmere grows as an undercoat on the body of a Himalayan goat. This fine wool is procured meticulously, processed, and transformed into apparel, wraps, shawls, accessories, and even furnishing. The finesse, smooth touch, warmth, and luxurious experience that Pashmina gives make it famous all over the world. But with all these merits, the art has received an unfortunate “cruelty” tag to its name. For this reason, a large number of customers believe that Pashmina is banned. Is it true? Or is it just a back fence talk, we found out.

Process of Pashmina making

The process of handcrafting fabric from Cashmere fibre is complex and arduous. It takes from several months to years to make Pashmina shawls and scarves. However, knowing the process, one can guess if the Pashmina ban is authentic or not. A shawl goes through the skillful hands of hundreds of artisans before completion. As such, Pashmina is the bread and butter of a large number of households in Kashmir. Families still depend on this art, which is revered all over the world. 

It is Changthang, an area 14000 feet above sea level in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, where Buddhist herders rear animals to survive. The temperature in this area goes down to -40 degrees C in winters, and the area is cut off from the rest of the world by a thick layer of snow, covering everything around. For survival, the herders depend on the animals, which provide them food, milk, warm clothes, and the activities related to them to spend time in this harsh winter. Out of many animals is a rare and peculiar species of goat known as Changthangi goat (named after their hometown). The goat is especially known to grow fine wool as an undercoat, which is exceptionally warm, smooth, and soft. This wool is Cashmere.

Procuring Cashmere from the goat

The goats are domestic animals and hence are never forced to give out Cashmere. This makes Pashmina ban more questionable. Besides in the Spring season, their wool naturally falls out as a result of hormonal changes. The rest of the wool left on some parts of its body, too, is gotten rid of by the animals themselves. This is because as summer arrives, the warmth of hair makes them uncomfortable, and they tend to get rid of it by rubbing their bodies against coarser surfaces. Herders collect the wool, comb off the little left on their underbellies, and pack them in small packets, to be sent for processing.

The actual processing in Kashmir

Processing of Cashmere takes place in Kashmir where skillful craftsmen and women with decades of experience await its arrival. As soon as it reaches Kashmir, it is handed over to women at the beginning who clean it thoroughly. Post cleaning, it is spun first, which converts lumps of wool to fine yarn. The yarn is then handwoven over traditional handlooms, which transforms fine yarn into fabric. The fabric is used to make shawls, scarves, apparel, furnishing items, and baby blankets (owing to its softness). 

Is Pashmina Banned?

With such fame and honour, Pashmina art became world-famous, but circles of rumours surrounded it. There were misstatements about Pashmina being cruel. Some believed that to acquire Cashmere from the goat, it had to be killed. Only then can one acquire Cashmere. However, upon tremendous research on this topic, researchers came to the conclusion that Pashmina was not at all cruel. To acquire Cashmere, herders call for professional help, where professionals come with specialized combs to “gently comb out” the hair from their bodies. Besides, these are domestic animals, who are known to their herders for years. They need not be forced to obtain their wool. 

THEN WHAT WAS THE RUMOUR ABOUT?

Shahtoosh - the banned beauty from Kashmir

It is Shahtoosh wool which is banned, not only locally, but all over the world. This is because Shahtoosh wool is obtained from the Chiru (the Tibetan antelope), which is wild and now an endangered antelope. To obtain the undercoat of Chiru, it has to be killed, since it is a wild animal. This makes Shahtoosh illegal and hence it is banned due to animal cruelty. 

Shahtoosh was one of the finest and warmest wools all over the world. One fibre of Shahtoosh measured just 8-10 microns in diameter, which made it microscopic for the eyes. Shahtoosh shawls were exceptionally lightweight, and full women shawls weighed minimal 160 grams. Shahtoosh shawls were called ring shawls because owing to their finesse, they could be passed through a finger-ring. It is said that these shawls were so warm that they could hatch a pigeon egg! It took the wool of three to five chiru antelopes to make one shawl, and hence their population decreased exponentially.  In 1995, an international ban on the trade of shahtoosh was signed by 142 countries. Shatoosh is globally banned, and its sales and trade are illegal all over the world now. 

Not cruel, not banned, Pashmina is sustainable and responsible

On the other hand, while Pashmina is accused of being cruel, it is conversely responsible and planet-friendly for several reasons. Pashmina ban succumbs when we know these points

• There is no use of machines, and hence no environmental pollution or wastage
• Cashmere is combed out, and not plucked or sheared from the goat. The wool grows back before winter on its body. Hence no question of animal cruelty arises. 
• Pashmina shawls last for over 20 years. Hence the art patronises slow fashion against fast fashion which has damaged our planet in an irreparable fashion.
• There still are thousands of families in Kashmir which solely depend on this art for their survival. Hence, besides empowering its artisans, Pashmina art is responsible for sustaining hundreds of families. 
• Being a natural fibre, Pashmina is biodegradable. It breaks down quickly, returning its nutrients to the soil without releasing plastic microfibers into the environment, as its synthetic competitors do. 

Is Pashmina banned in USA?

The answer is a simple NO. Pashmina is not banned anywhere in the world. Those are Shahtoosh shawls which are banned in the US and all over the world. In fact, the US is one of the leading importers of Pashmina. Hence if you live in the US and are planning to buy a Pashmina shawl or scarf, feel free to do so. You are a responsible shopper!

Also read: Pashmina - Unwrap the virtues of Art

From the land of valleys, where every now and then nature calls upon the people around to make a smooth and original use of it. The creation of Cashmere accessories from the finest Cashmere is the art of Pashmina that belongs to heaven above where artisans of skill form a place for souls to adorn. The sustainability of nature is profound in the idea of taking care of the world around. Exploiting the sources with eligibility to the sustenance. Pashmina, one of the best presents that nature has bestowed upon the souls of this world.

From the rarest breed of Goats - Cashmere

The world of known and unknown resources has been a part of the natural belonging for ages. Pashmina Art is the curation of the finest Cashmere wool of Changthangi Goat, belongs to the region of Ladakh in India. The breed Changra has been in the history of the region for ages as it’s the rarest breed.

The fleece from the particular regions of the goat that have been grown in the winter season is thus combed with hands to preserve its quality. Thereby, the Cashmere is cleaned, prepared for the handloom to weave the pashms and make magic out of it. The weaving and interweaving, done manually to provide the best natural handcrafted Pashmina Art. Afterward, the woven memories of Pashmina are thereby tinged over the colors that belong to the earth to make it even more desirable. The dyed Pashmina goes into the journey of many forms with many styles and designs procured over them.

Journey of Pashmina as designs

In the form of shawls, it evolves around nature when woven Cashmere is patterned with handprint blocks for the embroiderers to work upon with their hands of skill in a way, a meticulous and elegant design thus inscribed. There are several types of Embroideries viz., Sozni, Aari, Katha, Paper Mache, Tilla Dozi.

_{Sozni Kari}

The embroidery, created by using a needle in the hands of the artisan who moves it the way nature has swirled the flowers and leaves around. Patterns, crafted by many stitches viz; darning, double darning, herringbone, knots. Also, the most popular motifs are abstract geometric designs, paisleys, flowers. Both sides of the shawl have a detailed workaround. The Sozni work has incorporated tradition in its creation.

_{Papier Mache}

A series of flat stitches, the satin stitch, is used to fill the background fabric for the design like flowers, leaves. The design works in vivid and bright colours outlined in black colour. Overlapping of the thread to give a flat design. The whole design proposes splendor in its own way.

_{Tilla dozi}

The ravishing jewel-like embroidery substitutes the royalty of a Pashmina. The entwining of the golden threads with the normal threads gives a gentle look to the design. Moreover, the look over the Pashmina with hand-embroidered Tilla gives a fascination in itself. With the skill of artisans that belong to the valley and who work over the artwork heartedly.

Journey of Pashmina as styles

There are many ways by which it makes its identity like Pashmina shawls, Cashmere wraps, Cashmere scarves, etc.

In the form of shawls, it dwells on a larger size. The variant sizes are; 2m× 1m, 2.2m × 1.1m, and 2.8m×1.4m. It’s the rectangular apparel to give warmth and love. The purpose of a Pashmina Shawl is to wrap the upper body with it. Moreover, Pashmina Shawls can be draped on the shoulder and arms. Also, Pashmina Shawls are in designs like Sozni, Tilla Dozi, Papier Mache, etc. There are several patterns like Kani Shawls, Ombre Pashmina shawls, Reversible Pashmina Shawls, and the shawls embellished with Swarovski crystals and French Chantilly laces.

In the form of Wraps,  the elegant and fine Cashmere accessories that are used as outer clothings are the Cashmere Wraps. The premium size is 2m×70cm. The Cashmere Wraps are in various designs - Hand-embroidered, Kani Cashmere Wraps, Ombre Cashmerr Wraps, Laced Cashmere Wraps etc.

In the form of Scarves, scarves are smaller in size than shawls. The two variant sizes are; 2m×70cm and 2m× 35cm. They can be worn with casuals, formals, etc by drapping around the neck in the most stylish way. Cashmere Scarves are the most versatile as worn over by all the generations. They have meticulous designs like Shawls and Wraps. The Solid Cashmere Scarves, Ombre Cashmere and Swarovski Crystals Cashmere Scarves are the types.

Pashmina - Versatile yet precise

Pashmina Art is the curation of the finest Cashmere wool obtained from the Changra Goats. It has been with the story of pashms for a long time. It has been in its own skin for so long that it admires its different styles. Moreover, it has different distributions in the history of Art. Pashmina has molded, remolded itself in several forms that are distinguishably adorning to the world around.

Moreover, at Pashmina.com, caring and sustaining the position of genuine Pashmina has been a journey with nature. For the bliss of the world, it is the path of the whole journey with pashms as its parts of leaves and flowers around.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina