The lightweight, ‘soft gold’ Pashmina shawls are handcrafted manually, and a number of processes are hence undertaken. As many as a hundred artisans complete one Pashmina shawl. From its acquisition to spinning, weaving, washing, ironing, and packing, Pashmina is a manual affair. It indeed needs patience, manual efforts, and utmost care of these artisans. 

It is noteworthy that exporters exported Pashmina shawls in large quantities to European nations in the 18th and 19th centuries. Surprisingly, women, especially from the noble courts and Royal houses, were in love with Pashmina shawls. In fact, some of them owned over a 100 pieces. And, the only reason for this obsession was that Pashmina shawls were the best quality shawls of this era. Exceptionally lightweight, fine, warm, and beautiful, these handcrafted beauties were unquestionably special and enjoyed everlasting glory ever since their inception.

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl

Even though a solid Pashmina shawl looks elegant and sophisticated, some like a little extravagance in their precious pieces. Among these were Mughal rulers. After all, they were the ones to introduce embroidered Pashmina shawls. They, hence, employed more artisans in the already labour intensive work. Thus apart from the hundreds of golden hands that crafted Pashmina shawls, a few more added. These were super skilled and blessed. 

Soon after washers wash a Pashmina shawl, they send it for embroidery. Without a doubt, embroidering a Pashmina shawl is a labyrinthine process; certain patterns take 4 to 5 years to complete. The world-famous Jamawar shawls are the ones which take the most of the time. 

Three basic embroideries found on Pashmina shawls are 

• Sozni Embroidery (the artistic fine needle work)
• Tilla embroidery (the luxury gold and silver work)
• Paper Mache embroidery (the bold and brilliant threadwork)

Embroidery artisans from Kashmir

On our visit to Kashmir, we met a few embroidery artisans. These were the ones famous amongst the masses for their skillful craftsmanship and creativity. It was, indeed, an honour and privilege to interact with them. One such artisan is Ghulam Ahmed, an 80-year-old embroidery artisan. He is the most experienced one, and 5 generations from his family are associated with embroidering Pashmina shawls. According to him, it is love for the work and immense patience that bear fruits. Moreover, working for the entire day with such perfected skill and devotion is what makes his hand-embroidered shawls truly pieces of art. 

Ahmed works for 6 - 8 hours a day, hence creating labyrinthine and convoluted patterns on handmade Pashmina shawls. Because of the experience, artisans can differentiate between machine-made shawls and handcrafted pure Pashminas by just touching them. Without a doubt, it is the love for the work and the honesty of the artisans with the art that makes embroidered Pashminas such revered and cherished accessories all over the world

Artisans like Ghulam Ahmed started at tender ages. He himself started embroidering Pashmina shawls at 14 years of age and perfected it at 18. Despite his tender age, his shawls would be noteworthy. Now at 80 years of age, he has retired from embroidering shawls. But Ahmed still trains a large number of students, many of whom are his own family members.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Other Artisans

Apart from Ghulam Ahmed, the other artisans we met were active and loved their work much, despite the same being hectic. Even during our interaction, they did not stop and kept embroidering shawls in their lap. The speed and pleasure with which these artisans embroider Pashmina shawls intricately are worth watching. Infact, artisans who embroider Jamawar shawls, spend over 3 years with these shawls. And unquestionably, on completion, they give these away with a heavy heart. “It is a different kind of attachment”, they say. 

The attention to detail of each embroidery artisan is worthwhile. To begin with, the choice of colours, patience, hard work, and then the careful endeavours they put in, have brought laurels to this art form. No doubt, European queens and empresses spent fortunes on buying Pashmina shawls. They, in fact, owned hundreds of embroidered shawls in their lifetimes. 

Types of Embroideries

The beauty of the fine Pashmina is that it manages to host a number of embroideries. But the embroideries should be fine and lightweight, so that the underlying base easily holds its weight. When artisans embroider Pashmina shawls, the otherwise plain bases then exudes a different kind of grace. Even though solid Pashmina shawls are immensely beautiful, hand embroidered shawls are the ones which have a history of fascinating European royals as well as the local Mughal rulers for centuries together.

Sozni Kari

The most commonly found embroidery on Pashmina shawls is Sozni Kari. Owing to its lightweight, Sozni is the most popular embroidery, as the gossamer base of Pashmina holds it with ease. Sozni is a thread and needle embroidery and usually, artisans use silk threads to embroider Pashmina. To start, artisans dip a finely carved wooden block in ink for stamping the shawl with a design. Then they use the chosen silk threads in numerous colours to embroider the shawl. It is just the immensely experienced and skillful artisans who know how to follow the stamp marks. 

At times, more than one artisan embroiders Sozni Jamawar Shawls, and even then, it takes years to complete. In fact, if by chance an artisan passes away, it becomes almost an impossible task to copy the design, and the shawl remains incomplete for long.

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?

Papier Mache

Another form of hand embroidery done on Pashmina shawls is the Papier Mache embroidery. This is a thicker and more colourful version of sozni Kari. Motifs in a Papier Mache shawl are filled with brilliant colours. This embroidery is named after the Papier mache art of Kashmir, as the final shawl looks exactly like a Papier Mache article. The process of Paper Mache is exactly the same as Sozni Kari.

Tilla

When it comes to making Pashmina shawl even more grand and alluring, Tilla embroidery is the art form to choose. This version of traditional embroidery uses metallic threads to embroider shawls. Artisans dip the threads in gold and silver, to create breathtaking motifs over shawls, scarves and wraps. It was Tilla shawls which embellished the royal courts of Mughal kings owing to their regal looks and imposing incandescence which made the courts aesthetic and beautiful.

To handcraft a Tilla shawl, the designer proposes a design, which another worker draws over a trace paper. He further perforates the paper with needles (trombun). Meanwhile workers prepare the ink with sand and kerosene. The trace paper hosting the design is placed on the shawl, and with the help of a specialized duster, the sand mixture is passed on it. This gives the stamp of the design on the shawl, which workers then hand over to embroidery artisans. The artisans use metallic threads, dipped in real gold and silver, to trace the imprinted design. This is the making of a Tilla shawl, which is world famous for its awe inspiring demeanor.

How many artisans embroider Pashmina Shawls?

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl is not like a walk in the park. It is, conversely, an immensely challenging task, which needs full time, attention and skill of the artisan. It takes 4 - 5 years to complete a Jamawar Pashmina shawl, or even more at times, if contingency occurs. But artisans have to give the shawls enough time to get it perfectly ready, for the customer.

Mostly one single artisan embroiders Pashmina shawls. In fact, some believe that if an artisan passes away leaving his work halfway, it is almost impossible to finish the design by other artisans. But at times, when a shawl needs urgent completion in a speculated time, two or more artisans can sit and work. This happens after they completely understand the colour combination previously used. Only after fully scrutinizing the shawl embroidery patterns and shades, another artisan can restart work on it. A large number of shawls have been left incomplete, owing to the extraordinarily intricate work that they started on the shawl, but none of their counterparts could complete it after the original maker passed away.

After embroidering the shawl, washers again wash it and then iron it and finally put it out on sale.

Conclusion:

It was the Mughal kings who introduced Embroidered shawls. They invited around 700 craftsmen from Persia, and many of them were embroidery masters. It is these skilled artists from Persia, who taught locals how to embroider different types of shawls. For this reason, almost all the motifs embroidered on Kashmiri shawls are inspired by Persian art. As such, the paisley motif, several geometric patterns, and hunting scenes from the Persian culture were blended with Mughal-inspired motifs and this blend was visible on Pashmina shawls as well. Nevertheless, Pashmina shawls enjoyed endless glory during this time. In fact, it is the fame and popularity of these times that have cast reflection on the current trends. For this reason, Pashmina still stands timeless and versatile enough to blend into any time period.

Also read: The Cadence in the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The heaven on earth - Kashmir- is not just known for its scenic beauty but also the magical produce of its artisans. As such the handicraft industry of this picturesque valley is famous around the world for the number of products the local craftsmen produce manually. From hand-making kaleidoscopic Papier Mache showpieces to walnut wood art, sculpting copper vessels to weaving majestic carpets, from crafting luxury shawls to braiding wicker willow together, every piece in itself is a masterpiece. But there is one art that outgrows all of the others. It is world-famous and has fascinated individuals from the high society royals of Europe to the local Mughals rulers of 15th century Kashmir. PASHMINA SHAWLS.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls from a fine variety of animal hair. The hair grows on the body of the Himalayan goat found in the Changthang area of the Ladakh region. The goat loses all its hair in the moulting period which is collected and processed to craft shawls, scarves, wraps, socks, pocket squares, and a number of furnishing items. Amongst all these products, it was and is Kashmiri Pashmina shawls that rule the world, owing to their finesse, warmth, softness, and timeless charm. 

Making of Pashmina shawls

Processing Cashmere and transforming it into a Pashmina shawl is not an easy task. It requires great labour, enormous time, and the hard work of a hundred artisans. But the craftsmen of Kashmir have mastered this skill, and when they do it, it looks as easy as a breeze. 

The making of a Pashmina shawl starts with gathering Cashmere that the herders of Ladakh have collected in the moulting period of the Capra hircus goat. It is collected and cleaned partially in Ladakh, and fully in Kashmir by the local women. Cleaning Cashmere needs full attention as the wool is fine and the effort is manual. It is hence cleaned for a number of days by many women and handed over for spinning. Spinning transmogrifies lumps of wool to the fine fibre of just 12 to 16 microns diameter. This gossamer, gentle and delicate fibre is sent for weaving and men weave it to a luxury Pashmina shawl. The shawl is still incomplete and awaits its finishing. 

Finishing of a Pashmina shawl

Finishing processes are many and are again carried out by specialists. A purzgar smoothens the shawl by removing or cutting any superficial fibre attached to the shawl. For this, the shawl is mounted on a frame whose top and bottom are rollers. These rollers roll and push the shawl up or down, thus giving a clear picture to the artisan. Post this the shawl is rubbed with a coarse cloth before it is sent for cleaning. Pashmina shawls are cleaned in spring water and the washer repeatedly strikes them against a smooth stone. After it is washed, the shawl is sent for dyeing if required.

The process of handcrafting a Pashmina shawls takes from a few months to a few years as the pattern demands. As such Jamawar Pashmina shawls, Kani Jamawar shawls, and Aksi Do Rukha shawls (reversible embroidered) take around 4 - 5 years to finish.

This completes the process of making a solid Pashmina shawl, without any embellishments. After dyeing these are stretched, ironed, and packed to be sold. But what if the shawl needs embellishment. What embellishments are there for a Pashmina shawl? How are those done? 

Types of Pashmina shawls 

Based on the embellishment and beautification of a Pashmina shawl, it has been differentiated into types. The most common type of embellishment done on a Pashmina shawl is embroidery. And with the help of threads and needles, embroidery artisans create magical patterns on a Pashmina shawl. Embroidery is done after the fishing processes are complete. 

Sozni Embroidery

The most famous and most used embroidery pattern is the Sozni embroidery. Sozni embroidery uses fine threads and needles to draw intricate patterns on a Pashmina shawl. The embroidery motifs spread all over the shawl, or just around the borders, or as decorative patches across the shawl. The embroidery is itself fine and hence does not cause any damage to the underneath fabric. 

To make a Sozni shawl, walnut wood stamps are chosen from amongst thousands of them. These are dipped in chemical ink, and the shawl is stamped with great attention to detail. Next, this stamped shawl is handed over to embroidery artisans, who choose silk threads to embroider the shawl, following the stamping. The embroidery artisans from the valley are highly qualified in deciding which colours to choose. This is because they have decades of experience in differentiating between the colours that work and those that aren't much liked by customers.

If a certain thread does not give the required effect, it is removed and another shade is used to do the same. The end result is breathtaking and swoon worthy.

Papier Mache Embroidery

Papier Mache embroidery is the next most used and loved embroidery pattern for Pashmina shawls. The threads are thicker, and the embroidery style is different too. Motifs here are filled with breathtaking colours which are alluring as well as aesthetic. 

The process of hand embroidering a Pashmina shawl in the realms of Paper Mache embroidery is the same as Sozni Kari. Just that the threads chosen are thicker, as well as the needle used to perform the art

Tilla Embroidery

Tilla Dozi is the embroidery style where the threads are metallic, dipped in gold or silver. This embroidery looks absolutely magical but spans over the shawl in less quantity as it is fairly heavy to be carried in large quantities by a Pashmina shawl. When Tilla shawls were crafted for the first time, real gold and silver wires were used in it, and only the kings, royals, and super-rich and affluent individuals could afford them. 

The process of Tilla embroidery is quite complicated. A graph paper or trace paper is perforate in the shape of motifs with specialized needles, so that stamping material passes through. The graph paper is placed on the shawl, and a mixture of sand and kerosene (which is the stamping material), is placed over the paper with the help of a duster. The mixture passes on the shawl, and the embroidery artisans follows the same to embroider it. Metallic threads dipped in gold and silver are carefully chosen, and magnificent motifs are patterned over the shawl. This gives birth to the world famous Tilla shawls, which were the most popular among Mughals. In fact, a large number of Tilla shawls feature Mughal fighting scenes, Mughal durbars and other casual day scenes from the Mughal period.

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Making of an Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The making of an embroidered shawl takes from a few months to a few years to complete. If the embroidery spans all over the shawl in a tight pattern, it is called Jamawar shawl. Jamawar shawls take 4 to 5 years to complete. The embroidery over a Jamawar shawl is so profuse that one gets totally lost in its patterns. 

After Jamawar comes the Jaalidaar pattern, where the embroidery is spread all over the bae, but loosely, such that the base is fairly visible. These shawls might take up a year of the artisans time

Dordaar and Palladaar patterns are those where embroidery motifs span as vines around the borders. While in the Dordaar pattern, the vines spread around four sides, Palladaar restrains them to just two edges breadthwise. These shawls are completed in a span of a few months. 

To conclude

Embroidered Pashmina shawls from Kashmir have been in vogue since the 15th century. And since then, there is no turning back. There is not a single period in the history of these luxury shawls when these were out of style. Pashmina is timeless, ageless, and evergreen. Hand embroidered, Pure Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are those immortal treasure pieces that every woman in the world wants to experience once. Their immense warmth, buttery-soft touch, feathery lightweight, and an amaranthine grace that continues to spread, make every woman in the world love it more.

Also read: What is the Kani shawl made of?

Pashmina shawls have different meanings for different individuals. For today's women, who are patrons of luxury, Pashmina shawls are the accessories that they wear to the finest of occasions. Carrying these on their shoulders enriches their already perfected looks. For a woman who is aware of the history of these shawls, Pashmina is a feeling of belongingness. However far a person is from his land, a Pashmina shawl on his shoulders, kind of, call them back; even if all they can do is reminisce about home.

But for the women of yesteryears, the shawls were a significant part of their lives. These shawls uplifted them in their worst times, survived them through the darkest times of their lives, and made them independent when the world wanted otherwise. In whichever way, Pashmina shawls stood the test of time. Hence we call the glory of this art an everlasting glory that deserves our attention, love and immense reverence.

How much do you know about a Pashmina shawl?

The family heirloom shawls made from Cashmere wool are immensely fine and gossamer. The finest Pashm growing on the Ladakhi goat undergoes a manual processing to become Pashmina shawls. Hence as a result of the most elaborate craftsmanship, a Pashmina shawl is born. The admiration and appreciation these shawls get are flaunt worthy. These vintage pieces have history to grandstand. 

Pashmina shawls come from processing the hair of a Ladakhi goat. Workers carefully acquire the wool from the animal by gently combing it off their bodies. This prevents the animal from getting hurt, as well as maintains the fine texture and quality of the hair. Workers then then spin and weave his delicate fibre manually and hence converted to opulent shawls. While during their inception, shawls were either solid, embroidered or Kani woven, modern times have seen shawls with the French Chantilly laces or Swarovski Crystals attached to them. These contemporary looks further accentuate the timeless status of Pashmina shawls and make them more swoon-worthy than before.

Pashmina Shawl: A Treasure in History

It was the time when Mughals conquered Kashmir in 1586, that Pashmina came into existence; it was under the rule of King Akbar. But during this time, people used Pashmina shawls less for domestic use and more as a commodity. The shawls were indeed the most luxurious accessory for men and women alike, but rulers used it as ‘khillat’ (royal gifts), and honoured visiting guests from other nations.

Owing to the patronising of Pashmina shawls by Mughals, many shawls were named after them. For example, designs like the Shah Pasand (King’s choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Mohammed Shah’s Flower) were named after the said kings during their respective rule. Soon the popularity of Pashmina shawls began spreading and never remained restrained to just one nation. Rulers of neighbouring countries too used these shawls as ‘Khillat’, exactly like the Mughals did. However, it was only after the valorisation of the Europeans that the shawl got its well-deserved place in history.

Why Europeans loved Pashmina?

It was after the French Emperor Napoleon brought a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl for his wife after he retired from an Egyptian campaign in the 18th century. Empress Josephine in return patronised the shawl so much that it became a symbol of luxury and style in France. In fact, in the 18th century, affluent Europeans began giving their wives a Pashmina shawl as a part of corbeille de mariage (a gift basket given by the groom to the bride upon the signing of the wedding contract). The shawls became the most worn accessories, especially amongst the rich royal class of Europe. The women believed that they looked their best while wearing these soft and graceful wraps. 

The finesse, softness and exquisite warmth of Pashmina shawls capture the attention of the East India Company too. The officials of the East India Company used to visit Kashmir and see for themselves the sheer elegance that these shawls exuded. Britishers made it a habit to visit the valley, and understand the complex procedures that went into making Kashmiri shawls. Women in the Mid-Victorian period began to use Kashmiri shawls in their day to day life. It was believed that if a woman wore a Pashmina shawl, she would unquestionably be considered an affluent one. Hence these luxury shawls were the most powerful indicator of social status. 

Also read: The Craze for Cashmere in 19th-century France 

Imitations of Pashmina Shawls in Europe

This fame and acclaim for Pashmina shawls in Europe lead to its fake imitations. These imitations were cheap, and hence gained a lot of impetus in ancient times. Women especially invested in these cheap products and wore them exactly like the original Pashmina shawl. The British even demanded 12 goats from India to be transported to their nations. In fact, it is believed that a few goats were sneaked and kept in similar conditions as there are in Ladakh (J&K), where the Pashmina goats reside. But these stolen goats could not produce fine Cashmere-like in their own habitat, and this evil plan hit the bottom. 

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Pashmina for Us

As ardent fans of Pashmina, we would write a hundred books about it, and still think that justice has not been done to its heavenly essence. Pashmina shawls aren't just regal accessories for the rich but have a history of uplifting underprivileged women in the past. There are women whose families have survived because of spinning Cashmere yarn for making Pashmina shawls. 

When these shawls were exchanged as commodities with the British, these became major sources of income for the community. Even today, a large portion of society is fully dependent on Pashmina shawls for their living. These are usually owners of handlooms who weave shawls, or the embroidery artisans who hand embroider Pashmina shawls. Hence, other than being our favourite piece of clothing for its looks and feel, Pashmina is our loved and revered wrap for the way it has contributed to its makers, hometown and the country as a whole. Indeed, Pashmina shawls are like Proust's Madeleines for Kashmiri women who have had the first-hand experience of its glory, decline and major ups and downs. And the love we give it is perhaps in return for what it has been doing for us for centuries

Also read: Kashmir - The state famous for Pashmina Craft

A quaint village in the northmost part of India is Kashmir. World-famous for its handicrafts, Kashmir is an eminent place for the production of shawls. Kashmiri shawls are one of the most sought after winter accessories. Hence, women across the globe find Kashmiri shawls of the best quality they have worn, touched, or experienced. Amongst the most luxurious assortments of resplendent shawls, it is Kani Pashmina shawls that stand superior and exceptional. Evidently, Kani shawls are those intricate masterpieces, which need immense attention, careful efforts and soulful endeavours of the maker. Owing to being an epitome of classic art and fine labour, these shawls have been rewarded with the GI. (GI is the Geographical Indication, which specialists use in products that enjoy special features due to their place of origin.

More than just a shawl, a Kani Pashmina is a whisper of the mountains stitched together, with each thread moving to the beat of an age-old craft. With elaborate designs growing like wildflowers across a canvas of the finest Cashmere, it is crafted by the hands of Kashmiri artisans and embodies the essence of the valley. Precisely crafted, the wooden kanis weave tales of paisleys and petals, as though the loom itself hums a timeless tune. Every twist and turn carries the pulse of generations, history coursing through each opulent strand like a river.

The story of Kani Pashmina Shawls

The tales of a Kani Pashmina begin in the snowy mountains of the picturesque Kashmir valley. A village called Kanihama houses all the breathtaking Kani Pashmina shawls. It was in this village that Kani art started. Since the Mughal era, Kanihama and its artisans have produced the most ethereal Kani shawls. And since then, every patron of this lavish art form has owned Kani Pashminas; they believe these to be nothing less than a treasure. 

Kani shawls in Pashmina art have been the most loved accessories of the Mughal rulers. Historians believe that King Akbar owned a large number of Kani Pashminas. In fact, he has mentioned of luxury shawls of Kashmir in his autobiography - Ain E Akbari. Moreover, some also believe that the Sufi Persian saint Shah E Hamdan introduced Kani shawl making in Kashmir. It was him who apart from several other crafts introduced this luxury craft as well.

Also read: Kashmiri Shawl left Historical Figures spellbound

History of Kani shawls

Kani shawls, originating in the picturesque Kashmir Valley in India, have a rich history dating back centuries. These shawls are, indeed, famous for their intricate designs, luxurious materials, and meticulous handwork

Early European Encounters:

The European fascination with Kani shawls goes back to the 18th and 19th centuries when European travelers and traders encountered these exquisite textiles during their journeys to the East. The allure of Kani shawls was immediate, and they were quickly recognized as rare and precious treasures.

Napoleon Bonaparte and the Shawl Revolution:

One pivotal moment in the history of Kani shawls in Europe was their association with Napoleon Bonaparte and his court. Napoleon's campaigns in Egypt and India brought him into contact with these luxurious shawls. Also, he was famous for gifting Kani shawls to his wives and influential women in his court. The shawls soon became a fashion statement, and their popularity surged across Europe. Napoleon's affinity for Kani shawls even led to what historians refer to as the "Shawl Revolution" in France.

The Victorian Era and Royal Endorsement:

The Victorian era in the 19th century saw Kani shawls gain further popularity, especially in England. Queen Victoria herself was famous for being a collector of fine textiles. Her endorsement of Kani shawls hence solidified their status as symbols of luxury. European royalty and aristocracy began to embrace Kani shawls as a mark of their refined taste and sophistication.

Influence on European Fashion:

Kani shawls had a profound impact on European fashion during the 19th century. They were integrated into the wardrobes of the elite and often worn as elegant accessories. Kani shawls with their intricate patterns and vibrant colors added a touch of exoticism to European attire. The demand for these shawls led to the creation of European-made imitations, but none could match the authenticity and craftsmanship of the originals from Kashmir.

Kani Shawls in Art and Literature:

The allure of Kani shawls extended to the realms of art and literature. European painters and artists often depicted the shawls in their works, highlighting their beauty and cultural significance. Additionally, writers and poets of the time made reference to Kani shawls in their writings, further cementing their place in European culture.

Modern-Day Appreciation:

Today, Kani shawls continue to receive reverence and admiration in Europe and beyond. In fact, they are highly sought after as collector's items and are valued for their historical significance, intricate craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. Artisans in Kashmir continue to produce these shawls using traditional techniques, ensuring that the legacy of Kani shawls endures

What is Kani?

The word ‘Kani’ refers to small bobbins or small wooden sticks. Kani is made of a forest wood called ‘poos tul.' It is, in fact, these sticks that are responsible for the making of Kani Pashmina shawls. Around these Kanis, artisans wind colourful weft threads to create magical patterns over a shawl. They use as many as 50 Kanis for preparing one single weft when preparing a Kani shawl. This itself speaks about the intricate patterns used and the labour put into it.

An artisan who weaves Kani Pashmina shawls can weave just a square inch a day. Undoubtedly, this shows the complexity of its designs. Artisans use pure Cashmere yarn in the making of Kani Pashminas. Usually, the shawl is a light base. In other words, white, cream or ash base is prefered and the Kani designs woven over it are rich and multicoloured. This creates a striking contrast and the shawl looks like a piece of art. 

How is Kani shawl made

Undoubtedly, in the realm of luxury textiles, few can rival the elegance and allure of Kani Pashmina shawls. Artisans weave these exquisite creations from a material that has received reverence for centuries: Kashmiri Cashmere. Hailing from the Ladakhi Changthangi goat, this fine Cashmere wool, which grows on the goat's body, is manually processed to create the luxurious Pashmina shawls that have captivated connoisseurs worldwide.

How is a Kani Pashmina shawl made? This is the most asked and relevant question about Kani Pashminas we encounter. 

The Origin of Kashmiri Pashmina:

The story of Kani Pashmina shawls begins with the origin of Kashmiri Pashmina. In detail, it all starts with the Changthangi goat, a unique breed found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in India. These goats have adapted to the harsh climate of the Himalayas. In fact, it's their undercoat that holds the secret to the exceptional softness and warmth of Pashmina wool.

The Pashmina Harvest:

The process of obtaining Pashmina is labor-intensive and meticulous. The goats naturally shed their fine undercoat, called Cashmere, during the spring. Following, herders carefully collect this shed wool, locally known as "Pashm,". It is this Pashm or Cashmere that forms the raw material for crafting Pashmina shawls.

Manually Processing Pashmina:

Once collected, the Pashm undergoes a series of manual processes to transform it into the precious Pashmina wool. Herders painstakingly clean, sort the fibre, before artisans carefully spin them . The result is a yarn that is incredibly soft, lightweight, and luxurious.

The Art of Kani Weaving:

With the finest Pashmina yarn in hand, artisans in Kashmir embark on the journey of creating Kani Pashmina shawls. Unquestionably, what sets Kani shawls apart is the intricate weaving technique that bears their name. The term "Kani" refers to the wooden bobbins used in the weaving process. It is, hence, these wooden bobbins which are most essential for creating the intricate patterns and motifs that adorn Kani shawls.

The Meticulous Weaving Process:

The weaving of a Kani Pashmina shawl is a labor of love and precision. Artisans follow detailed pattern charts, inserting hundreds of these wooden bobbins to create the mesmerizing designs. They use around 75 to 100 Kanis at a time to weave a Kashmiri Kani Pashmina. They do this when the shawl is Jamawar - or an overall design shawl. The shawls are woven inch by inch, line by line, and the design is repeated until the final masterpiece is produced. It looks breathtakingly beautiful, feels extraordinarily soft, and feels as warm as the pleasant summer sun.

Each bobbin carries a specific color of yarn, and the weaver carefully selects and inserts the bobbins at precise moments in the weaving process. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the shawl's designs are ready with unparalleled accuracy.

The Unparalleled Luxury of Kani Pashmina Shawls:

Kani Pashmina shawls get immense admiration for their exceptional softness, warmth, and intricate designs. The blend of the world's finest Pashmina with the artistry of Kani weaving results in a textile that is not merely a garment but a wearable work of art. These shawls are famous for their ability to provide both warmth and elegance, making them highly coveted by those who appreciate the pinnacle of craftsmanship and luxury.

A Timeless Legacy:

The legacy of Kani Pashmina shawls continues to thrive today, with skilled artisans in Kashmir preserving and perpetuating this centuries-old craft. These shawls are more than just fashion accessories; they are tangible pieces of Kashmiri culture, tradition, and heritage. Their timeless appeal and unmatched quality ensure that Kani Pashmina shawls remain a symbol of opulence and artistic mastery, cherished by generations to come

Kani Shawl gets the GI Stamp

To prevent people from creating fake Kani Pashminas outside Kashmir, using other techniques that are not inherent to Kani shawl making, the government rewarded Kani Pashminas with the Geographical Indication (GI) in 2008. This was done to enact the legal protection of the shawl all over the world indicated by the Minister for Industries and Commerce. Kashmiri Pashmina was already GI patented, and then Kani Pashminas made from pure Pashmina too got this prestigious stamp. Hence, if you own a Kani Pashmina from Kashmir, you are the owner of two rare and glorified crafts at once!

Varieties in Kani Pashmina Shawls

There are a number of designs based on the patterns of these shawls, as woven by local artisans. 

Kani Jamawar Shawls: Kani Jamawar shawls are the most popular choice when it comes to Kani Pashminas. These shawls have Kani patterns spread all over the base with brilliant patterns, motifs and designs. This type of shawl takes 3 to 4 years to complete, with an artisan spending 8 to 10 hours every day crafting it. These are the most expensive shawls amongst the types of Kani shawls.

Kani Paladar Shawls: Patrons consider this type of shawl a minimalistic Kani Pashmina, that has patterns only on its borders (widthwise). Artisans can prepare this one in a few months.

Chand Daar Shawls: A lesser-known type of Kani shawl is the chand daar shawl. It features a full design in the exact centre of the shawl, with small motifs lying on four corners.

Also read: Sensing the sounds of Kani Shawls

Artisans of Kani Shawls

The artisans behind Kani shawls are the custodians of an ancient craft. Wearers have passed down these shawls through generations in the Kashmir Valley. These skilled craftsmen and craftswomen play a pivotal role in the creation of these exquisite textiles, and their expertise is central to the shawls' intricate beauty and quality.

Training and Apprenticeship

The journey of a Kani shawl artisan typically begins with a long and rigorous apprenticeship. Young individuals, often from families with a history in the craft, lean the art by experienced masters. This training can last for several years, during which apprentices learn the intricacies of the craft, from preparing the wooden bobbins to weaving complex patterns.

Mastery of Kani Weaving

At the heart of Kani shawl craftsmanship is the art of Kani weaving. Artisans master this technique, which involves using wooden bobbins to weave intricate patterns and motifs. They become proficient in handling multiple bobbins simultaneously, ensuring that each thread is inserted at precisely the right moment to create the desired design.

Design Interpretation

Kani shawl artisans are not mere weavers; they are artists who can interpret and replicate complex designs with precision. They work from pattern charts, which serve as blueprints for the shawl's intricate patterns. The ability to translate these charts into meticulously woven patterns requires a keen eye and a deep understanding of the craft.

Attention to Detail

One of the hallmarks of Kani shawl artisans is their unwavering attention to detail. They meticulously inspect their work at every stage of production, ensuring that each thread aligns perfectly with the design. This commitment to perfection ensures that the final shawl is a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Use of Premium Materials

Artisans understand the importance of using premium materials in crafting Kani shawls. They carefully select the finest Cashmere or other luxury fibers and prepare them for weaving. The choice of material and its quality significantly impacts the shawl's texture, warmth, and overall feel.

Preservation of Tradition

Kani shawl artisans are not only skilled practitioners of their craft. They are also guardians of tradition. They are committed to preserving the heritage and cultural significance of Kani shawls. By adhering to time-honored techniques and passing down their knowledge to the next generation, they ensure that this ancient craft continues to thrive.

Ethical and Sustainable Practices

Many Kani shawl artisans are proponents of ethical and sustainable practices. They prioritize responsible sourcing of materials, fair wages for themselves and their fellow artisans, and environmentally friendly dyeing processes. This commitment to ethical production aligns with the global demand for socially conscious and sustainable fashion

The love for Kani

Crafts come and perish. Art forms live and die. But the village of Kanihama has managed to keep the ethereal art of Kani Pashminas making alive. The village is called ‘handloom village’. It produces Kani Pashminas of the best quality. It is the untiring efforts of the local artisans who spent their entire lives introducing, saving, restoring and manufacturing the most beautiful Kani Pashminas of the valley.

Shawl weaving is a family tradition in Kashmir, especially in this small village of Kanihama. It runs in their bloodline, and artisans have had over three generations weaving shawls and handcrafting designs. Whatever time it takes, and however hard the efforts are, the artisans never say no to the making of Kani Pashmina shawls. They remain attached to this art form even if any other engagements occupy them . So much so, that artisans believe that Kani Pashmina making is their favourite activity and their hobby!

Sustainability in Pashmina Craft

The ethical sourcing and crafting procedures that the communities of Kashmir and Ladakh follow are very important to the sustainability of Pashmina craft, as are the ancient methods used to produce this beautiful wool. The Changthangi goats are the source of the beautiful Cashmere used to make Pashmina; they naturally lose their undercoat in the spring. By ensuring that the wool is collected without endangering the animals, this organic approach protects the delicate ecological balance of the area. Due to its reliance on slow, centuries-old workmanship that reduces waste and honors the natural rhythms of the animals and environment, the entire process is intrinsically sustainable.

The artisanship involved in the creation of pashminas also supports regional economies and conserves cultural heritage, which both add to sustainability. Generations-old hand-spinning, weaving, and needlework techniques use little energy and depend more on the talent of the artists than on industrial technology. This methodical, deliberate process not only minimizes the ecological footprint but also guarantees the durability of every item, resulting in superior shawls that are intended to be treasured for many years. Because it combines artisanal workmanship in harmony with ethical sourcing, the Pashmina craft represents sustainable luxury in this way.

GI Kani Pashmina

A geographical indication (GI) is a token attached to products that come from a specific geographical origin. To get a GI, a particular sign is used to identify a product having its manufacturing in a particular place. Moreover, geographical identification enables the craftsmanship of the place to only have the right to manufacture which means no third party can be applicable to manufacture the product. Therefore, the GI authentication of Pashmina is performed by Pashmina Testing & Quality Certification Centre, Craft Development Institute (CDI) located in Srinagar. It is a lab managed by the Government of India. The certification is given after proper testing examining every Pashmina accessory.

The richness of Pashmina is an embodiment of luxury. Pashmina.com is the only platform with high-quality Pashminas that have GI (Geographic Identification) authentication from the Ministry of Textiles to ensure the premium properties of Hand-woven and Hand-Spun. There are distinct procedures done to authenticate the quality of each Pashmina. The Pashmina Crafted accessories are tested in the laboratory specified to test the Pashminas. They ensure through examination that the Pashmina is hand-spun and hand-woven in Kashmir. In addition, they provide the authentication certificate called GI by testing the Pashmina exclusively through technical procedures.

Also read: Pashmina belongs to the Clan of Originality

Conclusion

Kani Pashmina shawls represent the zenith of luxury in the world of textiles. Crafted from the finest Kashmiri Pashmina and meticulously woven using the Kani technique, these shawls are a testament to the artistry and heritage of Kashmir. They are not merely garments; they are expressions of timeless elegance and craftsmanship that continue to capture the hearts of discerning individuals around the globe.

The artisans behind Kani shawls, with their meticulous craftsmanship and unwavering dedication, transform Pashmina into wearable works of art. Their mastery of the Kani weaving technique, which involves the deft handling of wooden bobbins and intricate pattern interpretation, ensures that each shawl is a testament to precision and creativity.

As we wrap ourselves in the warmth and beauty of a Kani shawl, we also embrace a legacy that has transcended time and geography. These shawls are a celebration of craftsmanship, a tribute to nature's gifts, and a connection to a heritage that continues to enchant and inspire.

Kashmiris have always had a great reputation as skilled craftsmen. This community was one that was the most revered and celebrated around the world for its proficiency. These artisans impressed Europeans much, and the entire world too, with the handcrafted objects they created. One of them was the Kashmiri shawl, which came to the notice of the world in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Kashmiri shawls were uniquely crafted. These used fine animal hair which when processed, gave lightweight, warm and sumptuous shawls. They first became truly loved by the local Mughal rulers, but soon spread their wings across nations, especially when Empress Josephine of France wore one and owned hundreds. 

With large quantities of exports, the economy of Kashmir grew. Up to this day, Kashmiris attribute their ancient economic well-being to the sales of Kashmiri handicrafts, the prime of these being handcrafted shawls. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls aren't just a warm wrap accessory for women, but something to be revered and honoured.

With a huge clientele and admiration, Kashmiri shawls grew adoration as well as many questions on its origin and making. So today, we assembled ten important questions on Kashmiri shawls, and let our experts answer them for those who still do not have enough knowledge about the same.

Q1: What are Kashmiri Shawls?

Shawls crafted in Kashmir are broadly categorised into three categories on the basis of the raw material used to make them. The finest, most warm, and the most expensive shawls are shahtoosh shawls, which are made from the hair of Tibetan antelope. These animals grow fine hair to survive the freezing cold of their habitat. But unfortunately, the Tibetan antelope has to be killed in order to acquire its hair. And hence, Shahtoosh trading is banned all over the world. The Shahtoosh fibre on spinning would yield yarn of just 7 to 10 microns in diameter, which is magically fine.

The next category is the Pashmina shawls, which are crafted from Cashmere wool found in Ladakh. The Cashmere goat loses its hair in the Spring season, which the herders collect and get processed manually in Kashmir. Pashmina shawls are immensely soft, smooth, warm, and lightweight. 

The third category is the simple sheep wool shawls called Raffal shawls. Raffal shawls are used for casual occasions, while Pashmina shawls are worn by women for weddings and special events. 

It is Pashmina shawls that are used synonymously with Kashmiri shawls. The reason is that Shahtoosh is banned, and Raffal shawls aren't too famous around the world because of a generic and “not so special” quality. Even though Raffal shawls serve a number of purposes for the locals, it is the charm of Pashmina shawls that has got the world fascinated.

Q2: How are Kashmiri Shawls made?

Call them Kashmiri shawls or Pashmina shawls, these are handcrafted by artisans of the valley for a few months or sometimes years. Fine Cashmere grows on the body of a rare goat, inhabiting the Himalayan region. This is collected during the moulting period and sent for processing to Kashmir. In Kashmir, artisans clean, spin and weave it, all manually. This is how one Kashmiri shawl is prepared. It can be later embroidered, printed, laced, or adorned in any way. 

Also read: Which country has the best Cashmere?

Q3: Who introduced shawls in Kashmir?

A Persian saint, by the name of Mir Syed Ali Hamdan, was the first person to discover Cashmere in Ladakh. He ordered its herders to gently comb it off the body of the goat, and process it. It was processed into a pair of socks and presented to the then king Zain ul Abideen. The king was highly fascinated and satisfied with its high quality. He immediately ordered processing units to be set up for handcrafting shawls. Hence it was king Zain ul Abideen, who lay the foundation of Kashmiri shawls in Kashmir. 

Q4: How much time does it take to craft Kashmiri Shawl?

This completely depends on the type of shawl, the amount of embroidery, and the weave on the shawl. If the shawl has to be solid, it will take just 3 to 4 days to weave it. Weaving takes time as the spun thread is always ready. If the shawl has to be embroidered lightly, it might take a few months. Jamawar shawls, which are embroidered in such a way that the base is not visible, take up to 5 years to complete. The same is the case with a Kani Jamawar shawl, which takes 4 to 5 years to complete. 

Q5: Why is Kashmiri shawl so popular?

Kashmiri shawls are popular all over the world for a number of reasons. Firstly, these are one of the warmest accessories in the world. Kashmiri shawls made from Cashmere are 8 times warmer than sheep wool. As far as softness is concerned, these shawls are heavenly soft and fine. Know that Cashmere fibre on spinning becomes just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. This makes Cashmere shawls fine, soft, and lightweight. These shawls, when embroidered, look heavenly graceful and elegant, and this is the reason why Europeans chose them over thousand other options from across the world. 

Q6: What embroideries are done on Pashmina shawls?

Kashmiri shawls are adorned with hand embroideries, as the strain of a machine can tear through the shawls. There are three main embroidery patterns that a Pashmina shawl of Kashmir hosts. 

• Sozni embroidery: This is a fine thread and needle embroidery, where light wool or silk threads are used to hand embroider a shawl. All the colours in the world are used, and large and small motifs are embroidered all over the shawl or just its borders. Sozni embroidery can be done profusely in a shawl, because it is lightweight, and a shawl can hold any weight of these fine threads. 
• Papier Mache embroidery: This type of embroidery uses thicker threads as compared to sozni ones. The threads are brilliantly coloured and look exceptionally beautiful when hosted by pastel coloured shawls. Paper Mache embroidery is done profusely over shawls, and it is fine and gentle on the base. It has been named Paper mache, after the craft of Paper mache (where decorative and utility items are made out of paper), as the designs look similar.
• Tilla Dozi: Tilla dozi used metallic threads dipped in gold or silver to adorn the gossamer base of Kashmiri shawls. Tilla was only afforded by the rich and influential some years back, as the threads would be pure gold and silver. But to make these shawls affordable for the masses, artisans used metal, which gave the same magnificent effect, without being much expensive. Tilla is done over Kashmiri Pashmina in small quantities, as the base is light and can tear because of metallic threads passing through.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Also known as ‘soft gold’, Pashmina shawls are one of the most prized and luxurious wrap accessories in the world. The wool for handcrafting a Pashmina shawl comes from the down coat of a rare goat found roaming around the ‘roof of the world’ - the Himalayan ranges. As it sheds this extraordinarily fine, soft and warm wool naturally in Spring, the same is hand processed into extravagant Pashmina shawls, scarves, or wraps. 

This shawl is so delicate

Pashmina shawls are delicate wrap accessories. These are made from the fine and gossamer Cashmere wool that grows as a down coat to the Himalayan Capra Hircus. 

The Himalayan range lies to the North of India and spreads around several nations. These nations include India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, China, Nepal and more. Hence all of these nations produce Cashmere wool, and hence shawls. But the best quality and the finest shawls are produced by Kashmir because this side of the mountain houses goats that grow the best quality Cashmere. 

It is in the Ladakh region, where the Changthangi area is situated. As enormous as over 14000 feet above sea level, the Changthangi area houses Changthangi goats that produce cashmere wool. The wool is exceptionally fine, and soft and helps the goats survive the coldest climates in the world. At minus 40 degrees C, the goats move freely and comfortably, without the cold harming them in any way, all thanks to their body hair. This down coat of Cashmere protects the goat all winter long, while its herders live a fairly difficult life. 

Acquiring wool from goats

Come Spring, the moulting period starts. The goat loses almost all of this body hair, and in summer herders help it with the same. Specialised tools and combs are used to rid the goat of this animal hair, which is now uncomfortable for it, as summers are remarkably hot. This hair removed is Cashmere. It is immensely fine and delicate, and hence needs manual cleaning which is done in Ladakh itself by women and men together in groups. 

The processing of Cashmere includes spinning, weaving and embroidery (if required), and all of it is done manually. The spun fibre of Pashmina shawls is just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Sometimes the fibre is not even visible to a layman, and it is so delicate that even a harsh movement of the hands can break it. For this reason, a Pashmina shawl is exceptionally delicate and gentle. It requires gentle treatment when wearing, washing, drying, or storing. If pure Pashmina shawls are pulled or stretched between two hands, they can tear off. 

Also read: Guide to Cashmere | Everything you need to know about Cashmere

Does a Pashmina shawl shrink?

Because Pashmina shawls are such delicate babies, they need special care and cautious handling when dealt with. A moment of carelessness can cause a lot of damage to your precious piece. It might shrink or pile with the harshest movements. While piling is reversible, shrinking is an issue, which several owners of pashmina shawls consider irreversible. 

A Pashmina shawl can shrink during its wash or drying. Here are some instances because of which Pashmina shawls usually shrink

• Pashmina shawls have to be handled manually, as they are prepared manually, without the use of any machine. Hence their washing should be the same. Pashmina shawls require hand wash in lukewarm water. If you place this precious and sensitive wrap in hot water, it will definitely shrink. 
• Washing a Pashmina shawl in a washing machine has rules of its own. If however, you wash it at a regular cycle, like you do with your cottons and nylons, the shawl will definitely lose shape. 
• If your shawl got wrinkled somehow, and you directly used hot iron to straighten it, it will again lose its original shape. It may expand or shrink, according to the damage it has received. 
• Pashmina shawls are air dried by placing them flat on the ground. If you tumble dry them, they will definitely shrink.
• Harsh detergents are not made for Pashmina shawls. Instead, there are Cashmere shampoos or Pashmina shampoos in the market to wash these gossamer fine and dainty pieces which are immensely gentle on their fabric. If you can't find one, use a baby shampoo or conditioner. 

How to Unshrink a Pashmina shawl?

The good news is that if your Pashmina shawl has shrunk, you can unshrink it and that too from your home. All you have to do is follow the following steps. 

• Fill the large tub with lukewarm water. The tub should be large enough to soak your shawl fully
• Pour in a fabric softener or a baby shampoo or the usual Cashmere shampoo
• Soak the Pashmina shawl into this mixture for two hours till the time it becomes stretchy. Check this while the shawl is still inside the tub soaking
• Post the stipulated time, take the shawl out. Do not rinse it yet.
• Squeeze the extra water out, by compressing the shawl between your hands. Do not wring the shawl.
• Now lay your shawl on a flat surface and manually stretch the edges. Repeat this, till you feel the shawl has come to its original position.
• Place weights on the edges or simply pin the edges with the cloth underneath the shawl, to keep it stretched more a few minutes
• Check the shape of the shawl. If it has regained the shape, remove the pins and weights. If not, leave it in the same position for a few more minutes
• Post this process, rinse it with cold water. When the water runs clear, place it over a clean and dry towel.
• Roll the towel so as to squeeze and absorb the extra amount of water. 
• Unroll it again and place the shawl now on another dry towel or thick clean cotton sheet. 
• Let it air dry flat on this surface for days, till it is completely dry. 
• Your Pashmina shawl is new and fresh again. Make sure the next time you wash it with extra care and gentleness. 

With proper handling, washing, and storage, you can extend the life of your Pashmina shawl to an entire lifetime. Pure Pashmina shawls from Kashmir last for even 30 years and acquire a heritage look with time. 

Also read: Pashmina Gifts - A Lifetime of Memories

Living beyond the lives over the horizons near the valley, a journey from history to this moment, when Pashmina Art was introduced. The diligent nature and the skilled ways of creating beyond imagination have been a part of it since. Pashmina Art has been into the moment of people and around the world. It has started from a life of a Changra breed that dwells in low temperatures. Cashmere wool developed into exquisite Pashmina Shawls that are handwoven explicit dreams of the people around.

Cashmere beneath Pashmina Art

The world has witnessed many forms of Arts and Crafts. In a place where souls reunite and live by various virtues of creation. A land emerging as the presence of nature depicts the explicit Art known to be Pashmina. Roots from a Persian word, Pashm, meaning the king of fibres is the fleece of the Cashmere wool. Pashmina has been at a depiction for ages that it’s the most exquisite form of Craft. Pashmina Art is the curation of the finest Ladakhi Cashmere wool that is extracted for its beauty, mushiness, and softness.

Laced over the history of art, Pashmina is bestowed with the supplication of beauty. Living near the edges of a Pashmina Craft, the Pashms gathered near their very presence where there is a virtue of desires and traditions that goes on together on the journey of creation. With the moving of the leaves, Pashms imitate the swirl present in them for ages. Pashmina is a source of enlightenment to its very own soul.

The Creation in Pashmina Art

Creating and making anything are two different ways of tackling the Art that develops as a form of beauty. Pashmina is the best of creations that has several steps of coming into existence for the souls around the world and for its own creators. Over the years of Pashmina, it has been in its same form and worth that it was. Moreover, the procedures for the creation of Pashmina are precisely and apparently the most blissful process. Pashmina Shawl undergoes a process that is in itself a meditation for the artisans as well as the buyer. The process begins and ends in a well-defined time frame depending upon the type of embroidery as well as the design of the shawl.

The excerpt of finest Cashmere

Beginning with the wool of the Changra Goats that dwell in the high mountains. It altogether submits the process to the people for its own creation. The wool, hand-plucked or combed out with the beauty of labour and scattered around as if the clouds are bursting to spill the rain in the summertime. An extensive procedure of combing that needs to be done manually in order to preserve and befit humanity.

Henceforth, the process is of great sustainable exposure to the breed. The finest fleece brought to the loom to make versatile accessories from it. The Changthangi hair, chosen on its quality basis and hence picked diligently.

Weaving the memories of Cashmere

The handloom, used for the process of weaving Cashmere wool and adorning the ravishing Pashmina Shawl. The Cashmere yarn is woven manually and gradually gives rise to meticulous Pashmina Shawls. Moreover, the weaving and interweaving of the fine Cashmere yarn are accompanied by the handwork of artisans who by hand weave to get the Pashms out from the fleece into a surface of Pashmina Shawl. Thereby, curating them into Pashmina Shawls a bliss for the souls.

Also read: What is a Cashmere shawl?

Tingeing the Pashmina Shawl

The variegating of the outcome of the weaving, thereupon done manually on the basis of the desire and design. To define its beauty with edges of colours of various pigments, Pashmina Shawl is stained. The design of the Pashmina propagates to choose the process of colouring.

The inscription of Patterns on a Pashmina Shawl

After the drying of the pigmented Pashmina Shawl, creating the pattern in a way is the next stop for the elegant Pashmina Shawls. There are some specific steps like; tracing of the requisite design, rubbing of colour powder. In addition, the tracing can be replaced by the hand block print process where a wooden block, already carved along with designs and motifs according to the fashion and tradition side by side. Therefore, the print, scribed on the shawl with a skilled hand and colour medium.

Singling out the Colours for the Pashmina

As per the requirement, the colour of the yarn is selected. The designers dive into various colour combinations in order to meet the design needed. Moreover, the choice of colours for the shawls is the most divine and creative process as colours act as the soul for the eyes of the onlookers. The beatitude, never forsaken on any basis, and the selection of colours thus thrust upon the creativity of the designer and artisan.

The Commencing of Hand-Embroidery

The embroiderer who with his hands of heaven gives the shawl a look, imagined by the designer based on the colour schemes and patterns. The artisans with the hands of soul for the creation of Pashmina thereby facilitates the designs with so much hard work. Moreover, with the experience of the artisans, the shawl abodes to the market with its enthralling beauty, dignifying the market for ages.

Moreover, various forms of hand embroidery are done over the Pashmina shawls. An acquaintance of Pashmina with many styles of embroideries describing them as a source of enlightenment for the Pashmina Shawl. Embroideries like; Sozni, Aari, Papier Mache, Tilla Dozi, are done exquisitely over the handwoven pashmina base. Moreover, Pashmina has also taken several other patterns in its way of creation like Scarves, Wraps, and many more

Also read: 5 reasons why Kashmiri Shawls are expensive

The Exquisite Pashmina Shawl

The new glaze, set upon for the Pashmina shawls for the market of holding people with various dreams believing in the making of something of a “masterpiece”.

Thereupon right from there, at Pashmina.com, these shawls, wrapped with happiness and peace all around the world are created. Caring and sustaining the position of genuine Pashmina has been a journey with nature. Pashmina is the path of the whole journey with pashms as its parts of leaves and flowers around for your bloomed happiness.

Also read: Pashmina - Creation beyond existence

There are a hundred reasons why Cashmere is a staple in the winter seasons. Apart from being the warmest wrap that one might wear, Cashmere scarves are lightweight immensely. Hence these are so easy to carry, and even store when not needed. Cashmere scarves fold into a small size and can fit in a handbag. The warmth it provides versus the weight it carries is such a mismatch! 

History of Cashmere scarves

Cashmere scarves have been popular not just now, but ever since Cashmere wool was discovered. It was the 15th century when a Persian saint travelled to Kashmir, and in Ladakh found a rare goat. The saint noticed that the goat grew Cashmere as an undercoat and it was soft and extraordinarily warm. Hence he ordered a pair of socks to be made from it and gifted it to the then king of Kashmir. The king ordered processing units to be set up to transform this fine wool into the fabric. This Cashmere scarf came into existence, as the most luxurious accessory of those times. 

Soon the news of Cashmere getting transformed to luxury scarves spread all over the world, and Europe showed a particular interest. Women and men from Europe visited Kashmir in groups and saw for themselves how magically soft and beautiful Cashmere was. Hence, they too purchased a few pieces, to start with, and later exported scarves in hundreds. And since it was expensive, only queens, kings, or those from the royal court or the affluent ones could afford it. The most famous fashioning episode was when Emperor Napoleon gifted his wife Empress Josephine a Cashmere scarf (Kani weave), and she was totally obsessed with it. She later ordered a few hundred pieces for herself and her friends and family.

Since the Empress was a style icon of her time, this episode made Cashmere more cherished, and women from every section of the society wanted to have one. 

Where does Cashmere come from?

To know how to keep your Cashmere fresh and new forever, we need to know its origin and types. This is because the purest of Cashmere needs extra care and attention, as compared to some low-quality ones. 

Cashmere grows as an undercoat on the body of a rare goat species found around the Himalayas. The goat is the Capra Hircus and is popularly called the Cashmere goat. Countries around the Himalayas are hence rich in the production of Cashmere. China and Mongolia are the top producers of Cashmere, while Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India follow. However, the best quality Cashmere comes from Ladakh, North India. In the Ladakh region, Cashmere goats are called Changthangi goats, which grow Cashmere as an undercoat on their underbelly, neck, ears, and in fewer quantities on other body parts.

This fine wool is manually combed off their bodies in the summer season and processed to make Cashmere scarves. Ladakhi Cashmere is the warmest, fine, soft, and luxury variety of all the Cashmere varieties. Hence it needs special care and handling. Here are some expert tips to keep your Cashmere scarf fresh, and make it last for a lifetime.

Tips to make your Cashmere scarf last a lifetime

The first and the foremost tip to keep your Cashmere fresh and new forever is investing in a pure cashmere scarf. Some sellers mix Cashmere threads with silk or nylon, and these scarves do not last for more than a year. Hence the first thing to do is buy a pure one. Here are the tips to make a Cashmere scarf last for a lifetime.

1. Hand washing it with a gentle shampoo

Cashmere scarves should always be washed by hand. It should be soaked in a mixture of lukewarm water and Cashmere shampoo (which is easily available in the market). After soaking it for around 30 minutes, it should be rinsed with cold water, and gently squeezed between hands to take the excess water off.

Cashmere should be washed once or twice a year. The scarf is a gentle one, and frequent washing will lead to the destruction of the fibre. 

2. Air drying Cashmere 

Cashmere should never be tumble-dried. Air drying is the best option if you want your scarf to live long. Simply place your scarf in between two clean and dry towels and roll all layers together. This gets rid of excess water. Now place your scarf on the floor and let it air dry. Do not hang a wet Cashmere, lest it lose its shape. 

3. Storing Cashmere scarf in a safe place

Cashmere demands proper storage. Hence it should be stored in a cool, dry, clean, and moisture-free place. Cashmere scarf should be wrapped in a muslin cloth before storing it, to prevent any moisture formation. Plastic should be avoided at all costs. If you own a number of Cashmere scarves, they should not be piled over each other without any separation layer. This keeps your scarf from bobbling and as a result looking old and withered. 

Also read: How to care for cashmere?

4. You don't need to add softeners to Cashmere

A number of women ask us if they can add fabric softeners to their Cashmere scarves to make them ‘even softer’. The Answer is NO! Cashmere is already extraordinarily soft. It will become even softer as it ages. However, if you find your Cashmere scarf to be itchy and allergy-causing, there is a chance your scarf is not made of Pure Cashmere. Get it checked immediately. 

5. Special Cashmere scarves for special days

The more you wear a cashmere scarf, the more you will need to wash it, and the more withered it can look. Cashmere should be worn on special occasions so that it gets less friction. Everyday wear will cause more friction and might lead to its bobbling. Less use of the same keeps it from everyday wear and tear, and hence safe from damage.

These are some specialist tips from our fabric experts which keep your Cashmere scarves new and fresh forever. This way, your scarf will acquire a vintage look with time, and look even more graceful than a new one.

Also read: Do vegans wear Cashmere Scarf?

On the horizon of unique beauty, the exuberant Art of Pashmina. The supremely fine Ladakhi Cashmere in the realms of Kashmir Valley presents the luxury of Pashmina Art. The exquisite collection of Pashmina Art cherishes the nature of fine Cashmere. The diverse styles prefer the horizons of Kashmir Valley. The distinctly defined styles are Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. In the virtues of Pashmina Art, the explicit designs are preferably unique and most exquisite. One of several designs is the Printed Pashmina style. The exquisite digital prints encompass the finest Cashmere with the serenity of heritage. Also, the cultural themes play an important part in the crafting of the Printed Pashmina Style.

The finest Cashmere base

In the coldness of Changhthanghi Mountain, the Changra goats dwell. The harsh winters of Changhthanghi Ladakh propel the Changra Goats to develop thick wool on their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the severe cold. Also called Kashmir Goats. Medium-sized Goats with twisted horns are Changra goats. Mainly grazed for Cashmere production. Eventually, in summers the Changra Goats shed off their thick wool against rocks and trees. The Changpa herders also manually comb out the wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. This is the finest wool with 12 to 16 microns in diameter. The Art of Crafting the finest Cashmere wool is the Pashmina Art.

Pashmina Art of Kashmir Valley

The Art of Pashmina starts when the Cashmere wool reaches the Kashmir Valley. The tufts of wool are cleaned, soaked and dried. Afterwards, the cleaned Cashmere is worked upon further by the women of the valley. The women work meticulously in their households on the wooden wheel. The wheel is called yinder in the local language. The women diligently work upon the Cashmere wool to transform it into fine Cashmere yarn. The whole process of translating Cashmere wool to Cashmere yarn is called the process of Spinning. The Spinning process, done with precision and diligence is explicit.

The next step in Pashmina Art is the process of Weaving. Weaving is the meticulous processing of the Cashmere Yarn to Cashmere fabric. The weaving process is done on a handloom made up of forest wood. The huge handlooms are set up in the local workshops/ karkhanas. The handlooms, worked upon by the male artisans of the Valley are versatile. The highly skilled artisans work meticulously. Thus, creating the warps and wefts with precision. This completes the process of creating Cashmere fabric for the next steps of Pashmina Art.

The next step in the process of Pashmina Art is the designing of several styles of Pashmina Art. The design includes; the embroideries, the patterns, the weaves, the gradient dyes, the magnificent prints. The unique definition of digital prints well defines the nature of Printed Pashmina styles.

Printed Cashmere Wraps

The Printed Cashmere Wraps are the magnificent creations of Pashmina Art. Moreover, the digital prints on the finely crafted Cashmere fabric supremely define the exquisiteness of luxury. Moreover, a Wrap is the outer clothing of the body. Thus, these are mainly used to cover the upper body. The unique designs in the warm Cashmere Wraps confer to the finest Cashmere. Therefore, the unique features of the Printed Cashmere Wraps unravel the significant skill of artisans of the valley.

There are diverse varieties of Cashmere Wraps in the Pashmina Art. From Solid Cashmere to the Kani Cashmere Wraps, the exquisitely premium quality is retained. The fine Cashmere base from Ladakhi Changra goats is worked upon by the highly skilled artisans. The digital prints have themes related to the tales of culture, heritage and religious figurines. The unique prints cater to the premium quality fashion luxuries of Pashmina Art.

Also read: IN KASHMIR VALLEY, PASHMINA ART RESIDES

Printed Pashmina Shawls

The exquisite prints are digitally prescribed over the finest Cashmere. After the spinning and weaving of the finest Cashmere, the exclusive prints emboss over it. Moreover, the exuberant prints confer to the traditional, heritage stories, tales from religions, and contemporary. The Printed Pashmina Shawls belong to the class of elegant and chic fashion. Thus, the premium quality Cashmere defines the luxury of fashion through digital prints.

The exquisite Printed Pashmina Shawls are defined with the elegance of fashion. The luxury full of unique digital prints caters to both men and women. Therefore, the Exquisite prints define the dimensions of Pashmina shawls with contemporary themes also. The marvellous Pashmina Shawls with exquisite prints is in itself a masterpiece of creativity. In addition, the artisans with high skill craft the fine Cashmere base. Thus, presenting nature with the explicitness of fashion. The Printed Pashmina Shawls speaks off the luxury of traditional as well as contemporary themes.

Printed Pashmina - In the Collection of Pashmina Art

We, at pashmina.com, prefer the realms of Kashmir Valley for our exquisite collection. The unique and well-defined collection belongs to the class of high quality. Therefore, the tremendously explicit Pashmina Art accessories are worth the luxury. Also, the artisans of the valley are the masters of the Pashmina Art. From the royal ages to the contemporary age of fashion, the accessories of Cashmere are significant. Thus, the profound designs and rich colours of each Pashmina Art accessory are exquisite. In addition, the heritage and the artisans play an important role.

Also read: HOW DID PASHMINA ART FIRST COME INTO EXISTENCE?

The dimensions of each style of Pashmina Art confers to the edges of beauty. The uniquely designed styles of Pashmina Art prefer the sphere of Kashmir Valley. In addition, the luxurious Art of Pashmina caters to all the people with the portrayal of opulent fashion. The diverse styles confer to marvellous beauty of heritage. One of the opulent styles of Pashmina Art is the Ombre Pashmina Style. The subtle and bold gradations in the colours of the style belong to the nature of Kashmir Valley. The Ombre Pashmina Style befits the virtue of luxurious fashion with elegance and glory.

Finest Cashmere from Ladakh

The Changhthanghi mountains of Ladakh are the coldest during winters. The harsh climate many creatures to withstand the minus temperature. A rare breed of goats dwells in the feet of Changhthanghi mountain. In the winter season, the Goats develop an undercoat of thick wool on their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh weather. Eventually, in summer the goats shed off the undercoat against rocks and trees. Also, the Changpa herders manually comb out the thick wool. The wool is the softest and finest. It is the Cashmere wool. The Ladakhi Cashmere is the finest because it is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Although the Ladakhi Cashmere endorses less than 1% of the total production of Cashmere in the world it is the premium Cashmere.

Pashmina Art in Kashmir Valley

The Art of Pashmina commences as soon as the tufts of wool reach the Kashmir Valley. Workers clean and dry Cashmere wool in the daylight. Later women work on it in small rooms of the Valley. Hence, the Cashmere wool is distributed to the households for the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous translation of the Cashmere wool to fine Cashmere Yarn. Artisans do it on a wooden wheel called yinder. Mainly womenfolk of the valley carry out Spinning. The process needs high precision and skill. Therefore, the adequate skill of women artisans presents the premium Cashmere yarn for the next process.

Weaving is the next step in Pashmina Art. It is the process of crafting the Cashmere yarn into premium Cashmere fabric. The highly skilled artisans work on the handlooms set up in the local workshops/ karkhanas. Also, the handlooms are mostly made of forest wood. The artisans mainly men artisans work meticulously on the fine Cashmere yarn. By creating magical warps and wefts by using their hands and feet, the Cashmere fabric comes into existence. The supremely premium Cashmere fabric is turned to the further steps of designing.

Ombre Pashmina Style

Ombre Pashmina style is the unique style of designing the finest Cashmere. The premium quality Cashmere Fabric has moved ahead for the dyeing process. The Cashmere fabric is dyed by the local dyers called Rangurs in their space. A wide range of shades and tones of a single colour is present in the dyer's space. In the Ombre Pashmina style, the dyers pigment the Cashmere with a gradation of different or single colours. Thus, the Ombre style is given to the Ombre Pashmina. The dyers meticulously dye every Cashmere fabric with the Ombre style. The uniquely defined aura of the Ombre Pashmina Style blooms the elegance manifolds.

Ombre Pashmina Scarves

Ombre Cashmere Scarves are produced in a variety of different colours using azo-free dyes. The harmony between the dyes of different colours gives an Ombre Cashmere Scarf a radiance of luxury and elegance. The handcrafted Ombre Cashmere goes on the path of Luxury fashion because of the versatility of Pashmina Art. Also, the intricate weave of chashm_e_bulbul/ diamond weave gives a texture to the presence.

In addition, the Ombre Cashmere Scarves are the Scarves that go well with every attire. Thus, heightening the style quotient to levels. The Ombre Cashmere scarves given the requisite shades of colours by the skilled dyer are explicit. The exquisite nature of these Cashmere Scarves is well defined in the world of craft through Pashmina Art. Furthermore, the versatile Pashmina Art of the valley confers to the creation of the opulent Ombre Cashmere Scarves in the most ethical way.

Ombre Pashmina Shawls

The divine shades and tones of each colour create a wide array of grades. The hues with gradience in the colours are dyed over the Ombre Pashmina shawls. The miraculous arrangement of colours creates an aura of luxury around the wearer. The fashion world revives this classy look of Ombre Pashmina Shawls. Hence, Pashmina Art confers each style with definite supremacy.

Therefore, the unique way of these Ombre Pashmina Shawls is explicit in their creation. The marvellous crafting of the finest cashmere from the Changra goats leads to the versatile collection of Ombre Pashmina Shawls. The gradation in the colours of every Ombre Pashmina Shawls is mesmerising to see.

Also read: PASHMINA SHAWLS FOR A LUXURY WEDDING

Ombre Cashmere Wraps

The finest Cashmere from the Goat breed of Changhthanghi Ladakh travels to the heritage of Kashmir. The wings of Pashmina Art touch the finest Cashmere and admire it. Therefore, the solid Cashmere translated to the Ombre Cashmere Wraps by tinting them with various hues to mark the exclusiveness of the artisans. Also, these are the distinct Cashmere wraps that indulge themselves in every style, be it casual or party. They have been given a wide range of colour palettes in their creation and design. Moreover, the season follows up with the Ombre Cashmere Wraps as it's the luxurious style statement of every wearer.

The Supremely defined Collection

We, at pashmina.com, cater to the premium Cashmere from the Changhthanghi of Ladakh. The Crafting of the Ladakhi Cashmere is prescribed with the pure Art of Pashmina. The exquisite collection speaks of the luxury of several types of accessories. The elegance of heritage and high skill of artisans prefer the realms of Kashmir Valley. The unique designs are built in the confines of the Valley for the natural aura of Pashmina Art. Thus, the finest cashmere from the Changra goats is crafted by skilled artisans for the world of fashion. Having one of the masterpieces will enhance your luxurious presence.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWL - A SYMBOL OF ELEGANCE