Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere from the region of Ladakh. There is the procurement of the finest cashmere from the Changra Goats. Afterwards, workers transfer the tufts of wool to the Valley of Kashmir for the Art of Pashmina. Pashmina Art cherishes every inch of fine Cashmere. Thus, there is the production of endless luxurious accessories. There are three major styles of accessories in Pashmina Art. They are; Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. These styles further host the diverse designs. The several designs cater to the world of fashion with enhancement to luxurious being. One among them is the Printed Pashmina. The versatile crafting of Printed Pashmina begins in the Changhthanghi.

A glimpse of the history of Pashmina Art

The history dates back to the 13th century when a saint from the Middle East was travelling to the Kashmir valley. He was on his journey to the valley with his 700 craftsmen. While on his journey, he landed in the land of Ladakh. He was enthralled to see the Changhthanghi mountain and the breed of goats there. It was a rare breed of goats - the Changra Goats. Some even call these goat 'Cashmere Goats'. The goats were so amazing to look at as their wool undercoat was soft. The saint combed some wool out and made a pair of socks out of it. He gifted them to the ruler of Kashmir valley. In addition, suggested the ruler make a small industry for the curation of this fine wool. This wool is the Cashmere wool.

Fine Cashmere- The Initiation of Pashmina Art

The Changhthanghi mountains of Ladakh are the coldest during winters. The harsh climate many creatures to withstand the minus temperature. A rare breed of goats dwells in the feet of Changhthanghi mountain. In the winter season, the Goats develop an undercoat of thick wool on their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh weather. Eventually, in summer the goats shed off the undercoat against rocks and trees. Also, the Changpa herders manually comb out the thick wool. The wool is the softest and finest. It is the Cashmere wool. The Ladakhi Cashmere is the finest because it is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Although the Ladakhi Cashmere contributes to less than 1 % of the total production of Cashmere in the world it is the premium Cashmere.

Several breeds produce the Cashmere for Pashmina Art. Among all the breeds of Cashmere producing goats, the Changhthanghi breed is the finest. They produce the finest Cashmere wool. The Changra goats of Ladakh produce the less abundant Cashmere wool but the finest Cashmere wool. The beauty of procuring wool from Changra Goats of Ladakh determines the purity and fineness of the Ladhaki Cashmere.

Printed Pashmina- By Process of Pashmina Art

The Cashmere wool reaches the Valley in small packets. Workers thoroughly clean and dry it. Later womefolk of the valley work on it. The premium Cashmere wool converts to Cashmere yarn by the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous process of transforming the fine Cashmere wool to premium Cashmere yarn. Women artisans do it on the wooden wheel called yinder. The women work diligently over the Cashmere wool to present the high skill of intricacy. The mesmerising beauty of yinder and the whole process befits the elegance of Pashmina Art with precision.

Afterwards, the next step is the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to premium quality Cashmere fabric. Then, the highly skilled artisans work upon the wooden handlooms in the local workshops or karkhanas. The opulent Cashmere fabric exists because of the precision of artisans. Therefore, they meticulously work on the handlooms. The generational Art of Pashmina defines their being. They are the masters of the Craft.

Afterwards, the designing of the fine Cashmere Fabric is initiated as per the design. Thus, the next step in the process of Pashmina Art is the designing of several styles of Pashmina Art. The design includes; the embroideries, the patterns, the weaves, the gradient dyes, the magnificent prints. The unique definition of digital prints well defines the nature of Printed Pashmina styles. One among all the marvellous designs is the Printed Pashmina. Printed Pashmina is the style of Pashmina where the finest Cashmere fabric is taken to the digital printing process.

Also read: The Art of Weaving a Pashmina shawl

The Tale of Printed Pashmina

The Printed Pashmina are the magnificent creations of Pashmina Art. The digital prints on the finely crafted Cashmere fabric supremely define the glory of luxury. Moreover, the unique designs in the warm Cashmere fabric confer to the finest Cashmere of Ladakh The unique features of the Printed Pashmina unravel the significant skill of artisans of the valley.

In the dimensions of Cashmere Wraps, there are diverse varieties of Cashmere Wraps in Pashmina Art. From Solid Cashmere to the Kani Cashmere Wraps, the exquisitely premium quality is retained. The fine Cashmere base from Ladakhi Changra goats is worked upon by the highly skilled artisans. The digital prints have themes related to the tales of culture, heritage and religious figurines. The unique prints cater to the premium quality fashion luxuries of Pashmina Art.

In terms of the dimensions of Pashmina Shawls, the exquisite Printed Pashmina Shawls are defined with the elegance of fashion. The luxury full of unique digital prints caters to both men and women. The Exquisite prints define the dimensions of Pashmina shawls with contemporary themes also. The marvellous Pashmina Shawls with exquisite prints is in itself a masterpiece of creativity. The artisans with high skill craft the fine Cashmere base. Thus, presenting nature with the explicitness of fashion. The Printed Pashmina Shawls speaks off the luxury of traditional as well as contemporary themes.

Also read: Cashmere Wraps for Travel

Collection of Pashmina Art

We, at pashmina.com, prefer the Valley of Kashmir for its beauty and natural heritage. The culture depicts the value of hand skilled artisans. Thus, crafting the masterpieces of Pashmina Art is evident. The unique ways of crafting the finest Cashmere from Ladakh is foreseen on the virtue of purity and authenticity. Reviving the generational craft leads to the marvellous presence of Luxurious fashion. Having one of the masterpieces will enhance the glory of heritage as well as present a dimension of love and skill.

Also read: The everlasting glory of Pashmina Shawls

In all the colours of nature, the craft of Pashmina bestows its essence. Belonging to the heritage of Kashmir Valley, the Craft cherishes every form and design of the culture. The unique definition of designs is marvellously crafted on the horizon of Kashmir Valley. This is known that the crafting of fine Cashmere into glorious accessories is the Art of Pashmina. In addition, the Pashmina Art has a diverse range of aspects of accessories like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. Beneath the three forms are the countless designs of the Pashmina Art. From Solid or Plain Pashmina to the Kani Pashmina, the tranquillity is cherished. One of the exquisite styles of design is the Ombre Pashmina. The gradations in the shades of diverse colours on the finest Cashmere present a look of tranquillity.

Ombre Pashmina- From the finest Cashmere of Ladakh

The Changhthanghi region is the coldest in the winter season. The species of animals and plants suffer due to the cold season. Eventually, they develop a mechanism to protect themselves from the harsh winter. Therefore, the Changra Goat, a rare species of goat develop a coat of wool over their bodies. The thick and soft wool protects them from the coldness of winter. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. They are mainly grazed by the Changpa tribe herders. The wool developed on them in the winter season is eventually shed off in summer. The herders of the Changpa tribe also comb out the excess wool by hand. This wool is called the finest Cashmere wool. It is to ve noted that the process of combing out wool is done manually. Thus, securing the quality and delicacy of the Cashmere wool.

There are several breeds of Goats that produce the Cashmere wool. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Among all, the Changhthanghi Cashmere wool is the finest. Also, it is produced in a very less amount than correlated to the other breeds. It is due to the rarity of the Changra species Goats. Further, the tufts of wool are transferred to the Valley of Kashmir for premium crafting in the name of Pashmina Art.

Also read: PASHMINA BELONGS TO THE CLAN OF ORIGINALITY

Ombre Pashmina- In the name of Pashmina Art

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. The crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is tidied and soaked. This marks the beginning of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form.

Moreover, the cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley. The unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. Women work meticulously in their households while performing the daily chores. The way they hold the yinder in front of their body and start the process of Spinning is specific. The aura of the household is filled with the feeling of culture as the women hum the Kashmiri folk songs in their voices of skill. Hence, the whole process is vividly performed with high accuracy.

The story of Weaving in Pashmina Art

Further, the fine Cashmere yarn is crafted to the fine Cashmere fabric in the local workshops or karkhanas. The unique installation of handlooms used for the next process is set up with serenity. Handlooms are looms made of forest wood. They are many worked upon by the artisans to present the world with Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the whole process of translating Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric is called Weaving. Weaving is mainly done by the male artisans of the Valley. It is precisely done in the space of karkhanas with an enthusiastic cultural aura.

The Designing of fine Cashmere

The designing of fine Cashmere starts after the process of weaving. In some designs, there is the beginning of intricacy in weaving also. There are diverse designs in the Art of Pashmina. Like Kani Pashmina, there is the intricacy of a weave on the fine Cashmere. Similarly, Patterned and Reversible Pashmina also goes on the path of a sophisticated and distinct style of weaving. There are several other designs like Laced and Swarovski Crystals Pashmina. These are the embellished form of Pashmina Art. In addition, the Printed Pashmina is versatile in its digital prints of surreal designs. Also, Embroidered Pashmina is a hallmark of intricacy. The marvellous designs with endless skill are up to the mark. Moreover, the Ombre Pashmina is the art of dyeing the fine Cashmere in the Valley of Kashmir.

Also read: THE FASCINATION OF CASHMERE IN PASHMINA ART

Ombre Pashmina - Styles and Designs

Ombre Pashmina is the style of Pashmina Art. The fine Cashmere fabric is given to the local dyer called Rangur for the process of dying. The dyer meticulously dyes the Cashmere Fabric into several shades but with gradations. A wide range of shades and tones of a single colour is present in the dyer's space. In the Ombre Pashmina style, the dyers pigment the Cashmere with a gradation of varied or single colours. Thus, the Ombre style is given to the Ombre Pashmina. The dyers meticulously dye every Cashmere fabric with the Ombre style. The uniquely defined aura of the Ombre Pashmina Style blooms the elegance manifolds. Also, the colours whirl upon with their diverse wings on the outstanding Cashmere fabric. Therefore, presenting the glorious luxury in the accessories of Pashmina Art.

The Unique Style of Collection

We, at pashmina.com, cater to the world with our luxurious and true collection of Pashmina Art. Thus, the unique art of Pashmina is the crafting of fine Cashmere from the Changra goats. We confer to the mountains of Changthanghi for the procurement of fine Cashmere. Thereby, the valley of Kashmir bestows upon us the marvellous collection. Having one of the masterpieces of Pashmina Art makes you speculate the horizons of authenticity and purity.

Also read: THE SUPREME KANI WEAVE IN PASHMINA ART

Cashmere is a type of animal hair that is derived from the Capra Hircus goat species. The goat is found around the Himalayan range and grows Cashmere as an undercoat to survive in one of the harshest conditions in the world. The wool is acquired and processed into the fabric. It can be processed to produce the world-famous Cashmere scarves, which caused a great furor in 18th century Europe. Cashmere scarves were an obsession of royalty, queens, noblewomen, and the affluent women of Europe, so much so that they owned a few hundred pieces of the same. Even now paintings of European queens and Empresses can be seen wearing Cashmere scarves or wraps. 

Unfortunately, in the early 1990’s, some traders started the sales of fake and mixed Cashmere scarves. These scarves were either made from sheep wool which was treated with softeners to make it Cashmere-like. Or else, Cashmere was mixed with nylon and silk, and passed through machines (Power Loom). This gave birth to false Cashmere, which were sold as Pure scarves. A mass confusion occurred in buyers, as now, there were differences in the grades of Cashmere. There were best grades of Cashmere, made from pure Cashmere and then there were other grades, based on the percentage of Cashmere used in them. Although there were sellers of pure Pashmina, customers lost trust in every seller.

The Luxury of a Cashmere scarf

Cashmere is one of the most luxurious fibres in the world. One single thread of Cashmere has a minute diameter of just 12 to 16 microns. Hence its popularity owes to its finesse. Besides this, Cashmere goats produce meagre amounts of hair with one goat giving off just 150 grams. As such, 3 to 4 goats have to be combed to get enough wool for a Cashmere scarf. 

Owing to such luxury and popularity of Cashmere scarves, many traders sell cheap fakes to gain the customer base of Cashmere. They smoothen sheep wool scarves artificially and sell them as pure Cashmere scarves. As such, many individuals fall prey to these dirty tricks. For this reason, we have assembled a number of tests that one can carry on a scarf if they suspect it to be made of something other than pure Cashmere. 

Luckily, some patrons of this luxury fibre have given a number of Cashmere tests, which can tell the purity of a Cashmere scarf, and differentiate it from the others. This has saved several admirers of the luxury animal hair from buying fake scarves and wraps. Thankfully, we owe a lot to these Cashmere test methods which helped us identify the original and pure Cashmere scarves. Or else, it was so easy to fall prey to the tactics of traders who sold fake Cashmere scarves like real ones

The Luxury of being Handmade

Cashmere scarves are handcrafted. This adds more to its opulence and magnificence. The raw Cashmere wool is acquired manually, by middlemen, who then hand this over to the craftsmen. Craftsmen clean the wool, and then spin it to reconstruct it to fine yarn. The fine yarn goes through a specialist procedure of getting converted to fabric, and this fabric is the Cashmere scarves or the legendary Pashmina shawls of Kashmir. This manual process from start to end makes Cashmere scarves timeless, grand the simply a product of an unparalleled art form

Cashmere is handmade from start to end. For this reason it is highly patronised by those who have a classic taste in art and craft. Also, being handmade is the real difference when it comes to identifying real Cashmere from fake ones. The most basic difference between most of the fake Cashmere pieces and real Cashmere scarves is the manual processes. Original Cashmere is handmade, while most fakes are made in machines (powerlooms as we now call them). Cashmere fibre is mixed with the strengthening nylons and silks and passed from machines to create shawls which are hybrid.

Cashmere Test Methods to check if a scarf is Cashmere

While once the process of getting a Cashmere scarf checked for purity was just reserved for professionals, now one can test these personally. Some of these tests are so easy that one can conduct them at home. 

Several tests by which a scarf can be tested for purity

The Label Cashmere Test

You are the luckiest customer of a Cashmere scarf if your newly shopped piece carries a GI label. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a stamp that testifies the purity of a Cashmere scarf. If your scarf has it, it means that the scarf is made from Ladakhi Cashmere, and processed manually by Kashmiri artisans. A GI Cashmere scarf is 100% pure and exceptionally soft. It is made from Pure Cashmere, and if you invest in this, you have hit the jackpot.

To pass the GI qualifying examination, the Cashmere has the following characteristics:

• The fine wool obtained from Ladakh has a diameter of just 16 microns (max).
• Spinning of this fine fibre is done by hand, on a wooden spinning wheel.
• Weaving of the Cashmere scarf is done on a traditional wooden handloom

The Burn Test

One of the unusual tests carried upon a scarf to check if it is Cashmere is the burn test. This is the most common of all tests conducted on Cashmere. In this test, simply cut a fringe of your scarf and burn it. If it gives off a pungent, natural fibre smell, there are high chances that it is Cashmere. This is because Cashmere is a natural fibre, and will give away a smell exactly like that of burnt hair. Also, the residue of this burnt piece will be matte and powdery. 

One has to be very careful while performing this test. Even Though the burn is pretty small, precautions need to be taken. Keeping flammable things away, keeping children away and after performing the test, discarding the things used are the basic precautions to take.

The Bobbling/Pilling Cashmere Test

Are you unhappy about your precious scarf falling prey to the tiny balls on its surface? These are called bobbles and these do make your scarf look withered and old. But do you know what the good news is? Your bobbled scarf is actually pure Cashmere!

Cashmere is a natural fibre, and hence will necessarily bobble with time. If it were a polyester, nylon, or silk mix, it would never bobble. Hence, only a pure piece will form bobbles on the surface. And luckily there are a number of ways to remove them. Shaving the fabric with a clean razor, lint removal machines, manual picking (if there are less bobbles) and more are some simple techniques to remove the wooly mesh that Cashmere gathers over its surface.

The Weave Test

The most beautiful thing about a Cashmere scarf is that it is handmade. It is the hard work and meticulous efforts of an artisan that produce these beauties, that is cherished by all. Manual work is never perfect like a machine and carries some irregularities. This is the same for pure Cashmere scarves, whose weave is always irregular when noticed against a direct light source. If you own a scarf and believe it to be fake, hold it against the sun and check the weave. If it is irregular, there are high chances of it being Cashmere. 

The Touch Test

The touch of Cashmere is completely luxurious. Even though this test has lost its significance owing to the introduction of machine softeners, there still are patrons and experienced ones who recognized Cashmere from its touch. If you have a Cashmere seller or artisans around you, you can get your Cashmere tested by him. 

It is believed that in ancient Kashmir there were artisans who could recognize Cashmere by its taste, simply by placing a fibre on the tip of their tongue!

The touch your Cashmere test should be the least chosen method for checking the purity of a Cashmere scarf. Owing to the sales of fabric softeners, even the roughest surfaces can be smoothened in an instant. Sheep wool scarves were amongst the first ones which were treated with fabric softeners and claimed to be pure Cashmere scarves. Hence the touch test can be done only by the makers of a Cashmere scarf. It is not possible for a common man to identify Cashmere with a simple touch.

The Microscope Test

The authentic of them all is the microscope test. Simply take your scarf to a lab, and get it tested for the micron count. If the micron count is 12 to 16, it is 100% Cashmere. If the fibre count happens to be more than 16 it might be low-quality Cashmere. But if the micron count is more than 20, there are high chances for it to be made from sheep wool. The scarf will definitely be warm, and more durable than a Cashmere scarf, but never will it be the luxurious and graceful Cashmere that the art admirers around the world are devoted to. 

The microscope test should actually be the first test to go for, especially if one finds a lab nearby. This is because it is the most authentic test and gives the most true results. Specialists in labs check the fibre, its basic composition and diameter, and give the most authentic results about the purity of Cashmere fibre.

The Price Test

A Cashmere scarf is handmade from start to end. From manually procuring it from the goat to processing, spinning, weaving, embroidering, dyeing, and anything related to completing it, a Cashmere scarf is handmade. For this reason, these are expensive. A scarf might even cost you thousands of dollars if it is profusely embroidered or patterned in an expensive fashion. Hence, if your scarf is too cheap, know that it is fake, or made from sheep wool. Cashmere scarves cannot cost you around $30. Even if they do, they might be made from the lowest quality Cashmere. Pure Cashmere scarves, if solid, with no embellishment, will cost you at least $80 or more. Hence, beware of sellers selling you cheap ones and claiming them to be Cashmere. 

Now you know how to test if a scarf is Cashmere or not. Be smart when you shop for Cashmere, as it is a lifetime investment. Ask the seller for a certificate of authentication when you shop for Cashmere scarves. If he is not able to produce the same, do not buy it. Look for authentic sellers, and always invest in a pure scarf, made from the finest threads of luxury Cashmere.

Also read: Why are Cashmere Scarves expensive?

Buying a New Cashmere Scarf

Now you know how to test if a scarf is Cashmere or not. But what about buying a new Cashmere scarf? Now that you know all Cashmere selling in the markets is not pure, how do you go about shopping for a new one? Here are some useful tips to follow when shopping for a brand-new Cashmere scarf:

1. Ask the seller of your Cashmere for a certificate of authenticity. If he is able to produce the same, he is an authentic seller selling Pure Cashmere, If not, he might be selling machine-made Cashmere. 
2. Always check with the other customers of the seller whether you're shopping online or in a retail store. Check the internet about what the customers have to say about the products and then go proceed with the purchase. 
3. A GI Cashmere scarf is without a doubt authentic. Hence, if you are looking for a simple, plain Cashmere and designs don’t matter much to you, pick a GI Cashmere scarf. There is no question of duplicity when it comes to GI scarves.

Cashmere scarves are a one-time investment. Hence their purchase has to be careful. A pure Cashmere scarf will be your companion for over 20 or 25 years. But a fake piece will wither in a few years only, which defeats the purpose of investing in Cashmere. 

The Glorious Kashmiri Tradition

The beauty of ancient Kashmir is known to all. Apart from its scenic beauty, it was its people and culture that made it even more beautiful. One of these beautiful traditions was that mothers used to give their newlywed daughters their own Cashmere shawls which would be over 20 years old as a good omen. The daughters would carry it to their new homes as a symbol of auspiciousness and good fortune. To the surprise of many, these shawls would look gracefully antique and carry a heritage look that would surprise the onlookers. 

Not just a few years, it has been decades since people are mystified about the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina. After all, Pashmina shawls and scarves are such expensive accessories that one should definitely do full research about its originality, pricing, and gain full knowledge about its comparison with other types of wool. But if during this research, one comes up with a number of names for the same thing, he is bound to get confused. Are you buying Pashmina or Cashmere? Is Pashmina the same as Cashmere? If not, is Pashmina better than Cashmere? 

To look for answers, we had to dig deep into the history of Cashmere and Pashmina. When we know the source of something, we can easily differentiate it from other terms. Let us take ourselves back several centuries, and know the origin of Cashmere and Pashmina.

History of Pashmina

It was the 15th century when a saint from Persia visited Kashmir. His name was Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani, and he had come to preach Islam to the local community. On his visit, however, he discovered a rare goat species in the Ladakh area. This goat looked exotic, and produced an exceptionally soft wool type, never discovered before. The saint immediately ordered its acquisition and processing, and when the wool was processed to fine fabric, he ordered socks to be made from it. The socks were of exceptional quality, and the saint decided to gift it to the then king of Kashmir Zain ul Abideen. The king was highly impressed, and soon inquired about this wool type. On knowing its origins, he ordered processing units to be set up to process this fine wool. 

Since it was discovered by the saint from Persia, the wool was called ‘Pashm’, which literally translates to ‘soft gold’. Soon the saint invited a large number of craftsmen and artisans from Persia, who were masters in spinning and weaving wool. They trained the locals to spin and weave this newly discovered Pashm wool, and handcraft shawls, scarves, socks, wraps, and even apparel from this heavenly soft wool. These wearables came to be known as Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, and the like. 

History of Cashmere

As soon as the news of Pashmina shawls and scarves spread around, it reached the farthest corners of the world. Europeans were especially interested in it and soon visited the valley to see for themselves. Upon reaching Kashmir, they were fascinated. They had never experienced such heavenly softness and lightweight fabric that they saw. They decided to take some with them in bulk, and import more in the future from Kashmir. 

Since Europeans could not pronounce Kashmir as locals did, they pronounced it as ‘Cashmere’, which is an anglicization of the term Kashmir. Hence Cashmere was a term that Europeans used to name soft wool.

Difference Between Cashmere and Pashmina

Hence the term Cashmere, as coined by foreigners, is the name given to the fine wool that grows on the goat’s body. Pashmina, on the other hand, is the art of transforming Cashmere into luxury wraps, scarves, apparel, and furnishing accessories. A large number of people use these terms synonymously, but there is a difference. 

Also read: Which country has the best Cashmere?

From Cashmere to Pashmina

Wool is acquired from sheep, but Cashmere, even if it is called Cashmere wool as a general term, is actually goat hair. A rare goat of Ladakh grows it as a down coat on its underbelly, neck, and behind the ears. It is smooth, soft, and immensely warm. The goat grows it as a defense mechanism against the harsh cold that this region experiences (-40 degrees C in winters). The wool keeps it warm and safe. 

As soon as Spring arrives, the goat experiences hormonal changes and starts losing this hair. And in summer, the goat is uncomfortable enough to get rid of it itself. It rubs its body against rough and coarse surfaces, and a large portion of the hair is left in the surroundings helter-skelter. The rest of the hair on its body is professionally combed off with the help of specialized combs. Hence the goat is free, and herders are left with the exceptionally soft and warm wool. 

This fine wool is sent to Kashmir for processing. Processing starts with cleaning this wool as it is full of foreign materials like dust, vegetable remains shrub thorns, etc. It is cleaned by women who take a few days before passing it forward as fully clean. Next, it is handed over to spinners, who spin it on a spinning wheel and convert lumps of wool to fine yarn. The yarn is taken to handlooms, and handwoven for 3 to 4 days to convert yarn to fabric. This complete process is an art form and is called Pashmina. 

These luxury shawls are special

If you have experienced the luxurious touch of a Pashmina shawl, you will have the knowledge of what a heavenly accessory it is. Cashmere yarn, which makes Pashmina shawls, is 12 to 16 microns in diameter. Note that a human hair is 50 microns, which makes Cashmere yarn about one-fourth of human hair. It is the finesse of Cashmere that makes Pashmina shawls so fine and lightweight. A 100*200 (B*L) cm women's shawl weighs around 400 grams. It is so soft and easy to carry that it has been used for everyday use. This, however, wasn't the case in ancient times, and only queens and the affluent used it for special occasions or as gifts. 

A Pashmina shawl lasts for an entire lifetime. The present generation is believed to possess shawls that are as old as 30 years. These shawls belong to their mothers, who purchased them in their teenage or early 20’s. But not even a bit in their grace diminished. In fact, it is said that the older a Pashmina shawl grows, the more elegant it looks. Users say that age-old Pashmina shawls acquired an heirloom look, and looked more regal as compared to a newly purchased shawl. 

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Pashmina shawls, or call them Cashmere wraps, are famous all over the world. The goats that produce Cashmere are found around the Himalayas. As such, nations like India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Mongolia and China produce products made from Cashmere, including Cashmere wraps. It is believed that Kashmir, in the North of India, produces one of the finest quality of Cashmere wraps, and locally calls it Pashmina shawls. Our quest for procuring the finest quality of Cashmere wraps and Pashmina shawls took us to the foothills of this scenic wonder. 

When it comes to quality, nothing can stop the team of Pashmina.com from acquiring the best of the best. As such, we went straight to the ‘paradisiacal’ valley of Kashmir and saw for ourselves whatever we had heard about it till now. 

A Trip to Remember

Waking up to the fragrance of fresh bread, chirping of exotic birds, and the sound of freely flowing waterfalls, one might think he slept in heaven last night. But for us, it was our first day in Kashmir - the place where Pashmina shawls are manufactured and aggrandized. The pleasant sunlight fell upon us at around 7 am, and we, the team of Pashmina.com, recalled the reason for our trip to this empyrean land. 

At around 8 am, after a delicious breakfast, we went to the nerve centre of Kashmiri handicrafts - the Downtown area. At this place, Mushtaq Ahmed was waiting for us, to reveal all we wanted to know about the luxury art of Pashmina. We went straight to his karkhana (factory), where breathtaking shawls awaited us. 

Mushtaq Ahmed’s family has been associated with Pashmina shawl making for a long time. It has been over a hundred years and three generations since this family have woven shawls. As such, they know all the artisan types which are associated with the completion of a Kashmiri Pashmina. They also know, and in fact, own some Cashmere wraps from other nations such as Chinese Pashmina. These artisans are super experienced, and with a single touch, they can differentiate Kashmir Pashmina from the rest. As we sat with him, the conversation about Kashmiri Pashmina and its superiority began. Here is the crux of what we realised.

Kashmiri Pashmina - Is it superior?

The bitterly cold days in Kashmir valley left no option for the locals but to produce warm apparel and shawls. While apparel kept their bodies warm, wraps and shawls were added as an extra layer to capture the warmth and keep one comfy in the bleak days. Hence, Pashmina was the best option for the locals, owing to its perfect warmth, ideal for Kashmiri winters. Today, centuries later, it is these shawls that are no more ‘just’ a necessity but the most unique art, that makes Kashmir famous till now. The best shawls in the world made from Cashmere wool are the Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, handcrafted by local artisans. The wool grows on the body of the Himalayan Capra Hircus goat and is considered the finest of all. 

Pashmina wool, or simply Cashmere, is especially beautiful and fine. The fibres are just 12 microns by width and are exponentially gossamer when compared to the most premium sheep wool (24 microns). Don't forget that Pashmina fibres are 4 times thinner than human hair. Hence shawls made from such a fine fibre type are undeniably fine, lightweight, comfortable to carry, and warm. It feels luxuriously smooth against the skin. Pashmina shawls are inherently graceful in their natural colours which are grey, brown, black, or ash.

The Magic of Ladakh

The place where Kashmiri Pashmina goats are found is in Ladakh.  It is Ladakh from where raw Cashmere arrives in Kashmir and gets processed. The specific temperature and atmospheric conditions in Ladakh play a huge role in making the down fibre of the Pashmina goat the way it is. If transferred to other areas, the same goat will produce low-quality wool. All Himalayan Cashmere bearing goats are capable of surviving the harshest temperatures of these cold arid regions. But only the one found over 14000 feet produces the finest wool.

Hence, the growth of the finest wool is an adaptive response to the immensely cruel and barren terrain, where winter temperature goes down to minus 50 degrees C. It is believed that in the 19th century, a surgeon, employed by the East India Company, decided to break North India’s monopoly in having the finest cashmere. He entered the region and secretly took Pashmina goats to Scotland. Out of the 50 goats he took, just 3 or 4 survived, and upon reaching Scotland, they produced the worst variety of Cashmere, much to their surprise. 

Hence, people realised that the best Cashmere wool comes from the Changthang area in Ladakh, North India. A nomadic community known as Changpa is its herder. They comb the bodies of their precious goats in the Spring season when it's their moulting time. Each goat produces an insignificant amount (just 150 grams) of impure fleece, an amalgam of fine and coarse hair called guard hair. In summers, more fleece is collected and sent to a group of middlemen, who trade this wool for basic necessities like grain, tea, and manufactured products with the herders. This is transported to Kashmir, where processing starts. 

Processing Cashmere to Pashmina shawls

Earlier it was animal caravans that brought raw Cashmere to Kashmir, but now it easily comes via air transport. The wool has to be cleaned first. Without cleaning, no finished product can be made. This is done by hand, and it is the immensely skillful womenfolk of the valley who take this responsibility.

Post cleaning, the wool is handspun, again by women. It takes about a week to turn the Cashmere of one goat into fine yarn. Hence the processes have to be repeated three times to make a complete shawl. (Wool from 3 or 4 goats is required for a shawl of standard size 100*200 cm). Hence, it's not just the fine texture and warmth of Kashmiri Pashmina that makes it special, but the processes involved in it. The tiring manual work makes it better than all its counterparts. The skills that Kashmiri women have perfected for centuries have been passed down to generations, and no generation has failed in delivering quality work. This has been the case ever since Mughal patronised this industry and it thrived. 

Kani Pashmina Shawl of Kashmir

When Pashmina shawls from Kashmir gained impetus, it was Europeans who fell in love with this art form. The first and the most cherished piece they took with themselves was a Kani Pashmina shawl. A Kani shawl is considered the most elaborate of all pashmina shawls. It is woven like a tapestry, and small bobbins, around which coloured threads are wound, are worked into the warps of Cashmere. These bobbins are called Kanis, and hence the name. Exquisite Kani shawls from Kashmir feature-rich designs, brilliant colours, and breathtaking looks. It is believed that the Kani shawl ordered by Josphine - the empress of France - took 30 individual artisans and around 9 months to complete!

Around 1800, Kani shawls were immensely popular among women around the world. Empress Josephine herself is believed to have owned a few hundred shawls around the era when the trade of Kani shawls was immense between India and Europe. 

The Shawl industry grew more and more in Kashmir, and this was noticed by one and all. Among those who closely watched the industry establish was Francois Bernier who was a physician of Aurangzeb, the Mughal ruler. He has described Pashmina shawls of Kashmir in the most alluring ways and words. The texture, warmth, softness, and beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, as defined by him, brought fame to the art, and lured French and English toward the valley.

Embroidered Kashmiri Pashmina Shawls

The next best shawls to Kani shawls are embroidered Pashminas. These were introduced around the 19th century. It is believed that a trader by the name of Khwaja Yusuf visited Kashmir, and realised the high prices of Kani shawls. These prices did not let commoners wear them, and the high taxes levied on them prevented profits for the locals. Hence he suggested exporting the less expensive embroidered shawls, which were then called Amlikaar shawls. These were equally beautiful as the Kani shawls, but less expensive and exempted from taxes. 

The popularity of embroidered shawls continues to rule till now. Presently Pashmina shawls are embroidered in three different embroidery types called Sozni Kari, Tilla Dozi, and Papier Mache embroidery.

Also read: Pashmina Embroideries | The Exquisite Craftsmanship

Kashmiri Pashmina for the locals

For centuries, every household in Kashmir has followed the tradition of gifting their daughters Pashmina shawls during her wedding. It is the most significant part of her trousseau. A woman in Kashmir owns 5 to 6 Pashmina shawls her entire lifetime and wears the most beautiful ones at her wedding. Usually, as a part of the culture, young women or girls do not wear Pashmina shawls, but just middle-aged women and the elderly. But with Pashmina shawls adapting to every modern design and pattern, now women from every age group can wear Pashmina. Shawls now are printed, patterned, laced, Swarovski studded, and solid. 

Also read: Incredible Wedding Pashminas

The beauty of Kashmiri Pashmina

A large number of European customers have had a one-on-one conversation with Mughtaq’s grandfather. He explained to us how they were mesmerised by the sheer touch of this shawl. Europeans would simply buy a shawl to keep warm or as an aesthetic layer for their dresses. But they would end up buying more and more and more. Pashmina shawls from Kashmir had something unique in them, and just one shawl would never quench the thirst of a patron of this art. This uniquely luxurious feeling of wearing a Pashmina was one of a kind. 

Why Kashmiri Pashmina is the best?

We didn't need to ask this question repeatedly to Mushtaq, as we were already mesmerised by the touch and feel of a Pashmina shawl. We had seen many with our own eyes now, and those were unbelievably beautiful. After day-long discussions about Kashmiri Pashmina, we could ourselves define why Kashmiri Pashmina is the best of all:

• As we realised, Kashmiri Pashmina has the finest Cashmere used in its processing. This comes from Ladakh, and upon spinning gives the finest yarn whose diameter is just 12 to 16 microns. Such a light thread would result in the most luxurious fabric. 
• Kashmiri Pashmina involves manual work. This work is super tiring, yet skillful and meticulous. From its acquisition to completion, Pashmina shawls of Kashmir demand exceptional skill and hard work, and that is what they get. As a result the shawls are opulent and gracefully superior. 
• The lightweight of these shawls owes to the fineness of the fibre. A large Pashmina shawl from kashmir, measuring 100*200 cm weight under 500 grams. Hence these are easy to carry, wear and store. Pashmina shawls are so light and fine that they can be passed through a finger ring. 
• Timelessness is one of the key features of a Kashmiri Pashmina. A Pure Kashmiri Pashmina shawl can even last for more than 30 years when carefully handled. As such the shawls are a lifelong companion, and look elegant whenever worn. 
• The embroideries done on Kashmiri Pashmina shawls are unique. Pure shawls from Kashmir carry these embroideries exceptionally well, and the combination is like a match made in heaven. Lightweight embroideries like Sozni Kari can cover the shawls profusely, but thicker threads of Tilla Dozi are done around the borders to keep safe the gossamer fine and delicate base underneath
• Warmth from a Pashmina is unparalleled. Women claim that they do not need any extra layers if they are wearing a Pashmina shawl. It reminds them of the pleasant summer sun.

Goodbye from Kashmir

As we left the place, we were overwhelmed with emotions and memories of these luxury shawls. On the way, we saw washers of Pashmina washing shawls on fresh streams of water and striking them carefully over large stones. Many dyers filled the streets who were bestowing shawls with mesmerising colours and shades. Indeed this was an experience of a lifetime. When we started leaving, we felt proud of choosing Kashmiri Pashmina as our core product. As we now look at our pure, luxurious assortments of shawls, we remember this trip, when we came to know that for Kashmiris Pashmina shawls are not mere wrap accessories, but emotions of a lifetime. 

Also read: The Kashmiri shawl: Early History and Literature

On our very first trip to Kashmir, we understood a lot of things, one of the most surprising among which was how Kashmiri women felt about the Kashmiri shawl. Kashmiri shawls are not just mere accessories for women. They have been the basic source of survival for a large number of womenfolk, ever since the shawls were discovered in the 15th century. The making of these shawls was household work, and men, as well as women, would be engaged in it. The underprivileged, widowed women or those whose husbands would be bedridden because of diseases, would earn from spinning fine Cashmere wool to fibre. This was their basic earning. 

While spinners would earn this way, another section of women would sell parts of their shawls if calamities befell. A piece of their Kashmiri shawls would fetch them enough money to survive for a few days. For women like these, Kashmiri shawls are more than a fashion statement. It has been the basic source of income, and the reason their children survived, received education and got white-collar jobs. It has been the reason that they themselves and their families endured the greatest financial crisis during periods of nescience. Hence, Kashmiri shawls deserve and receive huge reverence, recognition, and esteem since then, exactly till now.

Popularity of Kashmiri Shawls

The unending love and infatuation for Kashmiri shawls were actually spread by Europeans, whose royalty was especially swooned by it. Their love for these shawls continued to span generations together, embracing every single individual, of all ages, genders, or temperaments. Kashmiri shawls were like musings for women, and their noble courts exuded the essence and timelessness of these luxury textiles. No doubt, the resplendent shawls of Kashmir are sometimes referred to as the “golden fibre of Kashmir”.

What are Kashmiri Shawls?

With such a powerful backdrop, let us now go back in history, and define a Kashmiri shawl. This luxurious wrap, which is quintessential for your wardrobes, would definitely have an interesting history. After all, it is quite a prestige to have one. The pride one feels to own Kashmiri shawls is simply unsurpassable. These are the heirloom wraps that aren't just precious treasures, but those ageless accessories that one can pass through generations

A Kashmiri shawl is one that is handcrafted from Cashmere wool. The wool comes from Ladakh, North India. It grows as a down fibre to a specific mountain goat that is found over 15000 feet above sea level. The goat grows it as a means of survival against the harsh cold winters in Ladakh but loses it in Spring. It is this season when the wool is collected and processed to transform it into a style statement. It is this manual transformation of lumps of Cashmere wool that makes Kashmiri shawls even more special and makes these a woman’s fantasy.

Beginning of an Era

A pure manifestation of elegance and grandeur, Kashmiri shawls were introduced in Kashmir by the Mughals. It was King Zain ul Abideen, who ordered the commencement of processing looms to manually process Cashmere wool that came from Ladakh. While it all started with solid Pashmina shawls, these luxury wraps adapted to fashions and demands seamlessly. King Akbar introduced hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls and gifted the same to European rulers and kings for a proper endorsement. This was the beginning of an era that knew no bounds. Since then, the industry hasn't stopped growing, and Kashmiri shawls have been diversified, reformed, and well-timed for every generation. And while, at its beginning, these shawls were just a few, today we have hundreds of designs and patterns in which Kashmiri Pashmina is being offered. 

Which Shawl should I wear?

We realise how much you value a Pashmina shawl. Hence we would never like you to invest in one which does not suit your age or the occasion you got it for. Here is a recommendation list for the women out there trying to invest in a Kashmiri shawl, but failing to understand which one to buy. 

Shawls For the Elderly

Ideal for women aged 60-80, we would recommend hand-embroidered Kashmiri shawls. These are super luxurious pieces which feature thread and needle embroideries, and shawls like these take years to complete. Another choice would be wearing Kani Pashmina shawls, that are crafted using a coded pattern, and take years to complete as well. These profusely patterned shawls go well with the elderly and refresh their plain looks.

Also read: Pashmina - Into the Luxurious Kani Weave

For the mothers

Ideal for those who are aged between 40-60 is hand embroidered shawls that look ethereal on moms. These shawls exhibit the hard work of artisans and are hence perfect for our super active moms. Kani shawls too are perfect for this age group, as women love to wear Kani shawls on formal occasions or weddings.

Another category that we think is handmade for our mothers is reversible Pashmina shawls. These shawls have a flaunt-worthy front side and backside, and hence feature two different versions of a shawl in one. 

Shawls or the super busy

Working women need accessories that keep them warm as well as which are easy to carry. Hence, we would not recommend Kani shawls or embroidered shawls for them. For their everyday use, patterned Pashmina shawls are perfect for everyday office use. But for formal events, these women might like to wear a minimalistic embroidered Kashmiri shawl, with a thin border or a Jaali pattern embroidery type.

Spruce up those formal meeting outfits with the classic and brilliant touch of patterned Pashmina shawls which are full of bold and flashy shades. These don't just pep up your looks, but keep you super warm and comfy all day long.

Also read: A Panorama of Patterned Pashmina

For the millennials

Millennials would never like to carry something that is not manageable. For them, we recommend solid Kashmiri shawls, prints, and patterns, laced shawls, or ombre dyed ones. For the millennials, scarves will be more appropriate than shawls. Brights and pastels, prints or patterns, Kashmiri shawls or scarves are ideal for millennials, who focus on style as well as comfort.

Pashmina shawls are an ideal gift for millennials, as this is the most timeless and luxurious gifts one can give them. Its their birthday? They got a degree? They just got a job? Gift them the beauty of the specialist hands of Kashmiri artisans.

The shawls recommended above are not carved in stone. One can easily move beyond these and try for themselves the versatility of Kashmiri shawls.

Kashmiri shawls are the epitome of elegance. These luxury pieces are versatile, timeless, and beautiful. However you wear it, and whichever version of these you buy, make sure to take care of it. These are heirloom pieces that do not have an expiry date. On the contrary, Kashmiri shawls acquire a vintage look as time passes. 

Also read: 31 Celebrities who wore Pashmina

Around the Valley of Kashmir, a desirous craft of Pashmina befit the scenic view. The Valley of Kashmir unravels the unique definition of aesthetic Art. In the form of Pashmina Art, various accessories vividly capture the glaze of luxury. Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Wraps and Cashmere Scarves are the graceful luxuries of Pashmina Art. Being around the world of fashion, believing the hands of artisans, Pashmina Shawls befit the definition. The marvellous making of Pashmina Shawls pertains to the realms of Kashmir Valley. The beauty of the surroundings enthrals each intricacy of Pashmina Shawl.

Cashmere - The language of fine creation

The mountains of Changthanghi in the region of Ladakh feel the cold winter. The essence of waves of coldness prolongs till the time of summer. The creatures around find a way to live in the harsh habitat. The Changra Goats, one of the rare species of goats dwell on the feet of Changthanghi. These goats are grazed by the herders of the Changpa tribe. Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two long twisted horns. They develop rarely fine wool over their bodies in the winter season. Thus, protecting their bodies from the coldness of nature. They mainly grazed for the fine wool undercoat.

Gradually with the change in seasons, the goats shed off the fine wool in the summertime. Also, the herders manually comb out the finest wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. It is the finest Cashmere wool of all the Cashmere production in the world. Therefore, Ladakhi Cashmere is considered the finest wool.

The Rarity of fine Cashmere Wool

There are diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. All the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats.

In addition, the Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. The Changthang region produces around 35,000 kg of raw Cashmere every year from about 0.15 million Changra goats. Also, Cashmere is an exclusive breed that produces fine wool in a specific period of the year.  Only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there are almost 400 million Cashmere producing Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

After procurement, Pashmina Art begins

The finest Cashmere is procured from the region of Ladakh. Thereafter, it is transferred to the Valley of Kashmir in small packets. The tufts of wool in small packets reach the Valley of Kashmir. The first process of Pashmina Art called cleaning starts. The tufts of fine Cashmere wool are cleaned by hands. They are meticulously cleaned to get all the dirt and grime out. Thereafter, the fine wool is dried in the air of sunshine. It is to be noted that all the processes of Pashmina Art are done manually by the artisans and workers of the Valley. Also, the curation of the finest Cashmere from Ladakh in the Kashmir Valley is Pashmina Art.

After the process of cleaning and drying, the next process is Spinning. The fine wool is transferred to the households of the Valley. The womenfolk spin the fine wool to the finest cashmere yarn. They whirl the yinder, a wooden wheel used to spin the Cashmere wool to fine yarn. The womenfolk meticulously spin the Cashmere wool on yinder and craft the finest Cashmere yarn.

After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn into fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. The weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn into the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood.

Pashmina Art - The design of the Pashmina shawl

The design in Pashmina Art is tremendously versatile. The diverse forms of designs propel the artisans to show their skill. The various designs in the Art of Pashmina are miraculous in their creation. The artisans with the hand of heaven marvel at the art of intricacy. The diverse form of Pashmina Art is Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. The luxurious collection of Pashmina Art is marvellously crafted by the artisans. The lifelong craft of the Kashmir Valley bestowed upon the artisans is profound. The further designing of the distinct forms of Pashmina Art is done by versatile artisans. In small workshops or households, the art of serenity is gracefully done by the presence of artisans.

Also read: AN ESSENCE OF THE MAKING OF PASHMINA SHAWLS

The glorious Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina Shawls are the versatile creation of Pashmina Art. From the Changhthanghi to the valley of Kashmir, the unique definition of craft is seen. In addition, Pashmina Shawls are traditional accessories. The versatile nature of Pashmina Art, delivered from the royal ages to the contemporary age is serene. The Pashmina Shawls, intricately woven are explicit. Thus, belonging to the clan of purity and marvellous skill. Pashmina Shawls consider the tranquil being of Pashmina Art. Therefore, the diverse designs of patterns, motifs, weaves, and embroideries prefer the realms of Pashmina Art. Also, the uniqueness preserves the extraordinary elegance of the Pashmina Shawls. Thus, the artisans work endlessly on every masterpiece of Pashmina Shawls.

Pashmina Shawls have a versatile designer collection. There are diverse designs in weaves, embroideries, prints and patterns. Solid Pashmina Shawls, also termed plain Pashmina Shawls are simple vibrant or pastel Shawls. Likewise, the essence of weave in Kani, Patterned and Reversible Shawls are mesmerising in intricacy. Also, Laced and Swarovski Crystals Pashmina Shawls are embellished most divinely. Moreover, the Embroidered Pashmina Shawls are intricately designed Shawls for a luxurious presence. In addition, the contemporary style of Pashmina Shawls has Printed Pashmina Shawls. The exuberant prints pertain to traditional essence in most marvellous ways.

The Versatile Collection

We, at pashmina.com mom, share a beautiful essence of craft with skilled artisans. The unique definition of Pashmina Art is justified in the realms of our online platform. The exquisite collection of Pashmina Art is directly taken from skilled artisans. Therefore, the exuberant intricacy of the Kashmir Valley is bestowed upon contemporary fashion. Hence, beauty is cherished by Art lovers in the form of luxurious Pashmina accessories. Also, the finest Cashmere from the undercoat of Changra Goats is crafted divinely. Thus, the versatile collection confers to the fashion world in numerous ways.

Also read: THE ENCHANTING HUMS OF PASHMINA ART

The lightweight, ‘soft gold’ Pashmina shawls are handcrafted manually, and a number of processes are hence undertaken. As many as a hundred artisans complete one Pashmina shawl. From its acquisition to spinning, weaving, washing, ironing, and packing, Pashmina is a manual affair. It indeed needs patience, manual efforts, and utmost care of these artisans. 

It is noteworthy that exporters exported Pashmina shawls in large quantities to European nations in the 18th and 19th centuries. Surprisingly, women, especially from the noble courts and Royal houses, were in love with Pashmina shawls. In fact, some of them owned over a 100 pieces. And, the only reason for this obsession was that Pashmina shawls were the best quality shawls of this era. Exceptionally lightweight, fine, warm, and beautiful, these handcrafted beauties were unquestionably special and enjoyed everlasting glory ever since their inception.

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl

Even though a solid Pashmina shawl looks elegant and sophisticated, some like a little extravagance in their precious pieces. Among these were Mughal rulers. After all, they were the ones to introduce embroidered Pashmina shawls. They, hence, employed more artisans in the already labour intensive work. Thus apart from the hundreds of golden hands that crafted Pashmina shawls, a few more added. These were super skilled and blessed. 

Soon after washers wash a Pashmina shawl, they send it for embroidery. Without a doubt, embroidering a Pashmina shawl is a labyrinthine process; certain patterns take 4 to 5 years to complete. The world-famous Jamawar shawls are the ones which take the most of the time. 

Three basic embroideries found on Pashmina shawls are 

• Sozni Embroidery (the artistic fine needle work)
• Tilla embroidery (the luxury gold and silver work)
• Paper Mache embroidery (the bold and brilliant threadwork)

Embroidery artisans from Kashmir

On our visit to Kashmir, we met a few embroidery artisans. These were the ones famous amongst the masses for their skillful craftsmanship and creativity. It was, indeed, an honour and privilege to interact with them. One such artisan is Ghulam Ahmed, an 80-year-old embroidery artisan. He is the most experienced one, and 5 generations from his family are associated with embroidering Pashmina shawls. According to him, it is love for the work and immense patience that bear fruits. Moreover, working for the entire day with such perfected skill and devotion is what makes his hand-embroidered shawls truly pieces of art. 

Ahmed works for 6 - 8 hours a day, hence creating labyrinthine and convoluted patterns on handmade Pashmina shawls. Because of the experience, artisans can differentiate between machine-made shawls and handcrafted pure Pashminas by just touching them. Without a doubt, it is the love for the work and the honesty of the artisans with the art that makes embroidered Pashminas such revered and cherished accessories all over the world

Artisans like Ghulam Ahmed started at tender ages. He himself started embroidering Pashmina shawls at 14 years of age and perfected it at 18. Despite his tender age, his shawls would be noteworthy. Now at 80 years of age, he has retired from embroidering shawls. But Ahmed still trains a large number of students, many of whom are his own family members.

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Other Artisans

Apart from Ghulam Ahmed, the other artisans we met were active and loved their work much, despite the same being hectic. Even during our interaction, they did not stop and kept embroidering shawls in their lap. The speed and pleasure with which these artisans embroider Pashmina shawls intricately are worth watching. Infact, artisans who embroider Jamawar shawls, spend over 3 years with these shawls. And unquestionably, on completion, they give these away with a heavy heart. “It is a different kind of attachment”, they say. 

The attention to detail of each embroidery artisan is worthwhile. To begin with, the choice of colours, patience, hard work, and then the careful endeavours they put in, have brought laurels to this art form. No doubt, European queens and empresses spent fortunes on buying Pashmina shawls. They, in fact, owned hundreds of embroidered shawls in their lifetimes. 

Types of Embroideries

The beauty of the fine Pashmina is that it manages to host a number of embroideries. But the embroideries should be fine and lightweight, so that the underlying base easily holds its weight. When artisans embroider Pashmina shawls, the otherwise plain bases then exudes a different kind of grace. Even though solid Pashmina shawls are immensely beautiful, hand embroidered shawls are the ones which have a history of fascinating European royals as well as the local Mughal rulers for centuries together.

Sozni Kari

The most commonly found embroidery on Pashmina shawls is Sozni Kari. Owing to its lightweight, Sozni is the most popular embroidery, as the gossamer base of Pashmina holds it with ease. Sozni is a thread and needle embroidery and usually, artisans use silk threads to embroider Pashmina. To start, artisans dip a finely carved wooden block in ink for stamping the shawl with a design. Then they use the chosen silk threads in numerous colours to embroider the shawl. It is just the immensely experienced and skillful artisans who know how to follow the stamp marks. 

At times, more than one artisan embroiders Sozni Jamawar Shawls, and even then, it takes years to complete. In fact, if by chance an artisan passes away, it becomes almost an impossible task to copy the design, and the shawl remains incomplete for long.

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?

Papier Mache

Another form of hand embroidery done on Pashmina shawls is the Papier Mache embroidery. This is a thicker and more colourful version of sozni Kari. Motifs in a Papier Mache shawl are filled with brilliant colours. This embroidery is named after the Papier mache art of Kashmir, as the final shawl looks exactly like a Papier Mache article. The process of Paper Mache is exactly the same as Sozni Kari.

Tilla

When it comes to making Pashmina shawl even more grand and alluring, Tilla embroidery is the art form to choose. This version of traditional embroidery uses metallic threads to embroider shawls. Artisans dip the threads in gold and silver, to create breathtaking motifs over shawls, scarves and wraps. It was Tilla shawls which embellished the royal courts of Mughal kings owing to their regal looks and imposing incandescence which made the courts aesthetic and beautiful.

To handcraft a Tilla shawl, the designer proposes a design, which another worker draws over a trace paper. He further perforates the paper with needles (trombun). Meanwhile workers prepare the ink with sand and kerosene. The trace paper hosting the design is placed on the shawl, and with the help of a specialized duster, the sand mixture is passed on it. This gives the stamp of the design on the shawl, which workers then hand over to embroidery artisans. The artisans use metallic threads, dipped in real gold and silver, to trace the imprinted design. This is the making of a Tilla shawl, which is world famous for its awe inspiring demeanor.

How many artisans embroider Pashmina Shawls?

Embroidering a Pashmina shawl is not like a walk in the park. It is, conversely, an immensely challenging task, which needs full time, attention and skill of the artisan. It takes 4 - 5 years to complete a Jamawar Pashmina shawl, or even more at times, if contingency occurs. But artisans have to give the shawls enough time to get it perfectly ready, for the customer.

Mostly one single artisan embroiders Pashmina shawls. In fact, some believe that if an artisan passes away leaving his work halfway, it is almost impossible to finish the design by other artisans. But at times, when a shawl needs urgent completion in a speculated time, two or more artisans can sit and work. This happens after they completely understand the colour combination previously used. Only after fully scrutinizing the shawl embroidery patterns and shades, another artisan can restart work on it. A large number of shawls have been left incomplete, owing to the extraordinarily intricate work that they started on the shawl, but none of their counterparts could complete it after the original maker passed away.

After embroidering the shawl, washers again wash it and then iron it and finally put it out on sale.

Conclusion:

It was the Mughal kings who introduced Embroidered shawls. They invited around 700 craftsmen from Persia, and many of them were embroidery masters. It is these skilled artists from Persia, who taught locals how to embroider different types of shawls. For this reason, almost all the motifs embroidered on Kashmiri shawls are inspired by Persian art. As such, the paisley motif, several geometric patterns, and hunting scenes from the Persian culture were blended with Mughal-inspired motifs and this blend was visible on Pashmina shawls as well. Nevertheless, Pashmina shawls enjoyed endless glory during this time. In fact, it is the fame and popularity of these times that have cast reflection on the current trends. For this reason, Pashmina still stands timeless and versatile enough to blend into any time period.

Also read: The Cadence in the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The heaven on earth - Kashmir- is not just known for its scenic beauty but also the magical produce of its artisans. As such the handicraft industry of this picturesque valley is famous around the world for the number of products the local craftsmen produce manually. From hand-making kaleidoscopic Papier Mache showpieces to walnut wood art, sculpting copper vessels to weaving majestic carpets, from crafting luxury shawls to braiding wicker willow together, every piece in itself is a masterpiece. But there is one art that outgrows all of the others. It is world-famous and has fascinated individuals from the high society royals of Europe to the local Mughals rulers of 15th century Kashmir. PASHMINA SHAWLS.

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls from a fine variety of animal hair. The hair grows on the body of the Himalayan goat found in the Changthang area of the Ladakh region. The goat loses all its hair in the moulting period which is collected and processed to craft shawls, scarves, wraps, socks, pocket squares, and a number of furnishing items. Amongst all these products, it was and is Kashmiri Pashmina shawls that rule the world, owing to their finesse, warmth, softness, and timeless charm. 

Making of Pashmina shawls

Processing Cashmere and transforming it into a Pashmina shawl is not an easy task. It requires great labour, enormous time, and the hard work of a hundred artisans. But the craftsmen of Kashmir have mastered this skill, and when they do it, it looks as easy as a breeze. 

The making of a Pashmina shawl starts with gathering Cashmere that the herders of Ladakh have collected in the moulting period of the Capra hircus goat. It is collected and cleaned partially in Ladakh, and fully in Kashmir by the local women. Cleaning Cashmere needs full attention as the wool is fine and the effort is manual. It is hence cleaned for a number of days by many women and handed over for spinning. Spinning transmogrifies lumps of wool to the fine fibre of just 12 to 16 microns diameter. This gossamer, gentle and delicate fibre is sent for weaving and men weave it to a luxury Pashmina shawl. The shawl is still incomplete and awaits its finishing. 

Finishing of a Pashmina shawl

Finishing processes are many and are again carried out by specialists. A purzgar smoothens the shawl by removing or cutting any superficial fibre attached to the shawl. For this, the shawl is mounted on a frame whose top and bottom are rollers. These rollers roll and push the shawl up or down, thus giving a clear picture to the artisan. Post this the shawl is rubbed with a coarse cloth before it is sent for cleaning. Pashmina shawls are cleaned in spring water and the washer repeatedly strikes them against a smooth stone. After it is washed, the shawl is sent for dyeing if required.

The process of handcrafting a Pashmina shawls takes from a few months to a few years as the pattern demands. As such Jamawar Pashmina shawls, Kani Jamawar shawls, and Aksi Do Rukha shawls (reversible embroidered) take around 4 - 5 years to finish.

This completes the process of making a solid Pashmina shawl, without any embellishments. After dyeing these are stretched, ironed, and packed to be sold. But what if the shawl needs embellishment. What embellishments are there for a Pashmina shawl? How are those done? 

Types of Pashmina shawls 

Based on the embellishment and beautification of a Pashmina shawl, it has been differentiated into types. The most common type of embellishment done on a Pashmina shawl is embroidery. And with the help of threads and needles, embroidery artisans create magical patterns on a Pashmina shawl. Embroidery is done after the fishing processes are complete. 

Sozni Embroidery

The most famous and most used embroidery pattern is the Sozni embroidery. Sozni embroidery uses fine threads and needles to draw intricate patterns on a Pashmina shawl. The embroidery motifs spread all over the shawl, or just around the borders, or as decorative patches across the shawl. The embroidery is itself fine and hence does not cause any damage to the underneath fabric. 

To make a Sozni shawl, walnut wood stamps are chosen from amongst thousands of them. These are dipped in chemical ink, and the shawl is stamped with great attention to detail. Next, this stamped shawl is handed over to embroidery artisans, who choose silk threads to embroider the shawl, following the stamping. The embroidery artisans from the valley are highly qualified in deciding which colours to choose. This is because they have decades of experience in differentiating between the colours that work and those that aren't much liked by customers.

If a certain thread does not give the required effect, it is removed and another shade is used to do the same. The end result is breathtaking and swoon worthy.

Papier Mache Embroidery

Papier Mache embroidery is the next most used and loved embroidery pattern for Pashmina shawls. The threads are thicker, and the embroidery style is different too. Motifs here are filled with breathtaking colours which are alluring as well as aesthetic. 

The process of hand embroidering a Pashmina shawl in the realms of Paper Mache embroidery is the same as Sozni Kari. Just that the threads chosen are thicker, as well as the needle used to perform the art

Tilla Embroidery

Tilla Dozi is the embroidery style where the threads are metallic, dipped in gold or silver. This embroidery looks absolutely magical but spans over the shawl in less quantity as it is fairly heavy to be carried in large quantities by a Pashmina shawl. When Tilla shawls were crafted for the first time, real gold and silver wires were used in it, and only the kings, royals, and super-rich and affluent individuals could afford them. 

The process of Tilla embroidery is quite complicated. A graph paper or trace paper is perforate in the shape of motifs with specialized needles, so that stamping material passes through. The graph paper is placed on the shawl, and a mixture of sand and kerosene (which is the stamping material), is placed over the paper with the help of a duster. The mixture passes on the shawl, and the embroidery artisans follows the same to embroider it. Metallic threads dipped in gold and silver are carefully chosen, and magnificent motifs are patterned over the shawl. This gives birth to the world famous Tilla shawls, which were the most popular among Mughals. In fact, a large number of Tilla shawls feature Mughal fighting scenes, Mughal durbars and other casual day scenes from the Mughal period.

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Making of an Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

The making of an embroidered shawl takes from a few months to a few years to complete. If the embroidery spans all over the shawl in a tight pattern, it is called Jamawar shawl. Jamawar shawls take 4 to 5 years to complete. The embroidery over a Jamawar shawl is so profuse that one gets totally lost in its patterns. 

After Jamawar comes the Jaalidaar pattern, where the embroidery is spread all over the bae, but loosely, such that the base is fairly visible. These shawls might take up a year of the artisans time

Dordaar and Palladaar patterns are those where embroidery motifs span as vines around the borders. While in the Dordaar pattern, the vines spread around four sides, Palladaar restrains them to just two edges breadthwise. These shawls are completed in a span of a few months. 

To conclude

Embroidered Pashmina shawls from Kashmir have been in vogue since the 15th century. And since then, there is no turning back. There is not a single period in the history of these luxury shawls when these were out of style. Pashmina is timeless, ageless, and evergreen. Hand embroidered, Pure Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are those immortal treasure pieces that every woman in the world wants to experience once. Their immense warmth, buttery-soft touch, feathery lightweight, and an amaranthine grace that continues to spread, make every woman in the world love it more.

Also read: What is the Kani shawl made of?

Pashmina shawls have different meanings for different individuals. For today's women, who are patrons of luxury, Pashmina shawls are the accessories that they wear to the finest of occasions. Carrying these on their shoulders enriches their already perfected looks. For a woman who is aware of the history of these shawls, Pashmina is a feeling of belongingness. However far a person is from his land, a Pashmina shawl on his shoulders, kind of, call them back; even if all they can do is reminisce about home.

But for the women of yesteryears, the shawls were a significant part of their lives. These shawls uplifted them in their worst times, survived them through the darkest times of their lives, and made them independent when the world wanted otherwise. In whichever way, Pashmina shawls stood the test of time. Hence we call the glory of this art an everlasting glory that deserves our attention, love and immense reverence.

How much do you know about a Pashmina shawl?

The family heirloom shawls made from Cashmere wool are immensely fine and gossamer. The finest Pashm growing on the Ladakhi goat undergoes a manual processing to become Pashmina shawls. Hence as a result of the most elaborate craftsmanship, a Pashmina shawl is born. The admiration and appreciation these shawls get are flaunt worthy. These vintage pieces have history to grandstand. 

Pashmina shawls come from processing the hair of a Ladakhi goat. Workers carefully acquire the wool from the animal by gently combing it off their bodies. This prevents the animal from getting hurt, as well as maintains the fine texture and quality of the hair. Workers then then spin and weave his delicate fibre manually and hence converted to opulent shawls. While during their inception, shawls were either solid, embroidered or Kani woven, modern times have seen shawls with the French Chantilly laces or Swarovski Crystals attached to them. These contemporary looks further accentuate the timeless status of Pashmina shawls and make them more swoon-worthy than before.

Pashmina Shawl: A Treasure in History

It was the time when Mughals conquered Kashmir in 1586, that Pashmina came into existence; it was under the rule of King Akbar. But during this time, people used Pashmina shawls less for domestic use and more as a commodity. The shawls were indeed the most luxurious accessory for men and women alike, but rulers used it as ‘khillat’ (royal gifts), and honoured visiting guests from other nations.

Owing to the patronising of Pashmina shawls by Mughals, many shawls were named after them. For example, designs like the Shah Pasand (King’s choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Mohammed Shah’s Flower) were named after the said kings during their respective rule. Soon the popularity of Pashmina shawls began spreading and never remained restrained to just one nation. Rulers of neighbouring countries too used these shawls as ‘Khillat’, exactly like the Mughals did. However, it was only after the valorisation of the Europeans that the shawl got its well-deserved place in history.

Why Europeans loved Pashmina?

It was after the French Emperor Napoleon brought a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl for his wife after he retired from an Egyptian campaign in the 18th century. Empress Josephine in return patronised the shawl so much that it became a symbol of luxury and style in France. In fact, in the 18th century, affluent Europeans began giving their wives a Pashmina shawl as a part of corbeille de mariage (a gift basket given by the groom to the bride upon the signing of the wedding contract). The shawls became the most worn accessories, especially amongst the rich royal class of Europe. The women believed that they looked their best while wearing these soft and graceful wraps. 

The finesse, softness and exquisite warmth of Pashmina shawls capture the attention of the East India Company too. The officials of the East India Company used to visit Kashmir and see for themselves the sheer elegance that these shawls exuded. Britishers made it a habit to visit the valley, and understand the complex procedures that went into making Kashmiri shawls. Women in the Mid-Victorian period began to use Kashmiri shawls in their day to day life. It was believed that if a woman wore a Pashmina shawl, she would unquestionably be considered an affluent one. Hence these luxury shawls were the most powerful indicator of social status. 

Also read: The Craze for Cashmere in 19th-century France 

Imitations of Pashmina Shawls in Europe

This fame and acclaim for Pashmina shawls in Europe lead to its fake imitations. These imitations were cheap, and hence gained a lot of impetus in ancient times. Women especially invested in these cheap products and wore them exactly like the original Pashmina shawl. The British even demanded 12 goats from India to be transported to their nations. In fact, it is believed that a few goats were sneaked and kept in similar conditions as there are in Ladakh (J&K), where the Pashmina goats reside. But these stolen goats could not produce fine Cashmere-like in their own habitat, and this evil plan hit the bottom. 

Also read: What is the price of Real Pashmina shawl?

Pashmina for Us

As ardent fans of Pashmina, we would write a hundred books about it, and still think that justice has not been done to its heavenly essence. Pashmina shawls aren't just regal accessories for the rich but have a history of uplifting underprivileged women in the past. There are women whose families have survived because of spinning Cashmere yarn for making Pashmina shawls. 

When these shawls were exchanged as commodities with the British, these became major sources of income for the community. Even today, a large portion of society is fully dependent on Pashmina shawls for their living. These are usually owners of handlooms who weave shawls, or the embroidery artisans who hand embroider Pashmina shawls. Hence, other than being our favourite piece of clothing for its looks and feel, Pashmina is our loved and revered wrap for the way it has contributed to its makers, hometown and the country as a whole. Indeed, Pashmina shawls are like Proust's Madeleines for Kashmiri women who have had the first-hand experience of its glory, decline and major ups and downs. And the love we give it is perhaps in return for what it has been doing for us for centuries

Also read: Kashmir - The state famous for Pashmina Craft