Pashmina shawls, handcrafted from the rich and luxurious Cashmere wool, got their name from the Persian word ‘Pashm’. Pashm translates to ‘soft gold’ in Persian. Pashmina shawls got international fame when they proved to be the softest and warmest accessories all over the world. Herders manually acquire Cashmere wool from the Capra Hircus goat. The goat inhabits at 14000 feet above sea level at Changthang, Ladakh. a type of soft and heavenly smooth wool grows on its body. Workers process it and transform it into the opulent Pashmina shawls of Kashmir. 

History of Pashmina

Pashmina shawls were once afforded only by the rich and affluent. This included kings, queens, affluent people, noblemen of the royal courts, and others from the higher section of the society. Pashmina shawls even fascinated Caesar and the French queen Maria Antoinette. The regal charm of Pashmina shawls even allured Emperor Napoleon. He, hence, gifted one to his wife Empress Josephine. The shawl impressed her too and she later ordered some 400 Kani Pashmina shawls from Kashmir. 

Origin of Pashmina

Ancient Kashmir was economically backward. There was no financial independence among people and men were usually labourers. In the 15th century, a Sufi saint came from Persia to teach Islam to the local population. This saint by the name of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani realised that people need to be financially strong in order to make this community independent and flourishing. It was him, who once travelled to Ladakh, and found Cashmere wool growing as a down coat over the body of a rare goat. This coat was of the Changthangi goat. As a defense mechanism to the harsh winter in Ladakh, it naturally grows Cashmere, as a means to survive.

The saint ordered workers to process this fine wool into a pair of socks. It was the Mughal king Zain ul Abideen who ruled Kashmir at this time. The saint gifted these socks to the king, who was highly impressed by the sheer softness and warmth it provided. This was the beginning of Cashmere wool processing in Kashmir. The king ordered workers to set up several processing units of Cashmere in the valley. Shah E Hamdan invited 700 craftsmen from Persia, on the king's order. These highly skilled artisans trained local Kashmiris in different crafts; the primary among these was the processing of Cashmere into the fabric. Artisans further transformed it into shawls, scarves, wraps, apparel, baby blankets, furnishing, and upholstery items for the royalty.

"We owe him"- say Kashmiris

Shah E Hamadan uplifted the Kashmiri society socially and economically. He brought with him not only craft experts but highly skilled technicians, engineers, and architects from different parts of the world (Persia, China, Iraq, Egypt, Syria, and Russia) to Kashmir. These artists taught Kashmiris shawl weaving, architecture, agriculture, engineering, and other handicrafts, for which Kashmir became internationally famous. These were Pashmina making, carpet manufacturing, Papier-mache, wood carving, copperware, embroidery work, and more.

Also read: Pashmina Shawls for a Luxury Wedding

Making of Pashmina shawls

Ever since their discovery in Kashmir in the 15th century by Shah E Hamdan, Pashmina shawls were handmade by the trained, skilled artisans of Kashmir. Raw Cashmere wool came from Ladakh in the Spring Summer season when the goat sheds it naturally. On arrival, the Cashmere wool is in packets and is in its raw form. It is not yet fully clean or sorted. This happens in Kashmir, where womenfolk do it. 

Women from different corners of the valley come together and clean the Cashmere wool, which is full of foreign material. It consists of vegetable waste, thorns of shrubs, dust, and dirt. Women wash it thoroughly for 2 to 3 days and dip it in a rice water concoction for a few days. This makes it even more smooth and soft. It is cleaned again and now sorted as per dimensions. A few threads which are thicker in dimension are placed separately. Only the fine yarn goes into the making of a Pashmina shawl. 

Wool is stored as lumps after cleaning, ready to be handspun. Spinning begins post-cleaning, and it is again the womenfolk of the valley, who are spinners. They mount the lumps of wool onto a traditional spinning wheel and spin it to produce yarn. The yarn is just 12 to 16 microns, and hence super soft and flimsy. 

The next step is weaving the yarn into shawls. This is done by men, by mounting the yarn onto a handloom. This is a traditional Kashmiri wooden handloom, which takes a total of 3 to 4 days to transform yarn into luxury shawls or scarves. A fine solid Pashmina shawl or scarf is ready now.

Contemporary patterns in the art 

Even though Pashmina art is centuries old, it never failed to cater to the needs of the modern world. When it was discovered back in the 15th century, only solid shawls, embroidered shawls, and Kani shawls were popular. But as time went forward, the artisans realised that the shawl needed to adapt to contemporary needs. Hence Pashmina shawls were revived and patterned in in-vogue fashions. Animals prints, floral prints, checkered patterns, striped patterns, laced Pashmina shawls, customizable Pashmina shawls, and many other patterns. This way adults, as well as teenagers, could wear Pashmina shawls regularly. There are Pashmina scarves that are ideal for office use and casual day outs, and there are shawls that are perfect for weddings and as bridal accessories. Hence the art never failed to cater to the needs of any individual, irrespective of gender, age, or taste.

Centuries have passed since Pashmina art came into existence for the first time. But never ever has anyone, across the globe, claimed that the shawls are now old-fashioned and do not need to be crafted again. As a matter of fact, women of all ages, races, and temperaments crave to touch original, pure Pashmina shawls once. It was a tradition in Kashmir for women to give their daughters their own Pashmina shawls as gifts, as a part of the daughter’s trousseau. Even though hundreds of years have passed, this beautiful tradition is still followed across religions and beliefs. 

Also read: The Art of Weaving a Pashmina shawl

Pashmina shawls are handmade from the finest Cashmere fibre, which is acquired from the Himalayan Capra Hircus goat. The fibre is super delicate and hence demands the same treatment while washing, drying or storage. The shawls are fairly expensive, and hence, a harsh treatment might cost you several thousand dollars. Hence one has to be really careful and attentive while dealing with Pashmina shawls, as even pulling it with your hands harshly might result in a tear. 

When such expensive, luxurious and delicate shawls get wrinkles, one might be really worried about the ways to get rid of them. The reason is that ordinary sheep wool can get ironed easily. But Pashmina shawls need not be ironed, as the fibre is exceptionally gentle. Even if a shawl needs ironing, the owner has to be careful about the temperature of the iron, the force with which they have to hold the iron and many other factors. Hence, caring about a Pashmina shawl needs full-fledged mindfulness of the owner, to its company for a lifetime. 

Why is a Pashmina shawl delicate?

Pashmina shawls are made from Cashmere. Cashmere is the hair of the Himalayan goats found around the Himalayas. This animal hair is immensely fine and delicate. It survives the goats in the harsh winter seasons that the Himalayas experience. The temperatures go below 40 degrees C, and it is Cashmere that envelops the goats in its exceptional warmth. 

Spring season is the moulting season for the goat and it naturally loses much of the hair. Then comes summer, and its herders comb off the extra hair left on the body post-spring. This hair is processed manually. The process begins by manually leaning it, and then spinning it. Spinning is done over wooden spinning wheels, which transform the hair into long and fine threads. The fibre is just 12 to 16 microns in diametre and is fine enough to be broken by the slightest harsh movement of the hand. This is followed by weaving these fine threads, again done manually over a handloom, which transforms wool threads into the fabric. The fabric is a Pashmina shawl, in a solid appearance, and can be sent for embellishments later. 

The fact that Pashmina shawls cannot be crafted over machines shows how delicate the fibre is, and how even manual movement can be strong for it at times. A diameter of 12 microns makes it one-fourth of human hair, and that makes us realise how dainty and flimsy Pashmina shawls are.

Also read: Pashmina goat farming and its impact on the economy

How to care for Pashmina Shawl?

Taking care of such a dainty wrap is a task. But as they say, precaution is better than cure, we bring to you precautions and cures as well. But let us start with precautions and see how a Pashmina shawl might get wrinkled. 

During a wash

If you toss your Pashmina shawl directly into a washing machine and wash it on a regular cycle, there are chances of not just wrinkles, but your luxury piece getting damaged to the core. Always wash your Pashmina shawl with your hands. Soak it in a mix of lukewarm water and Pashmina shampoo for 30 minutes, and you are done

During a rinse

When you wash a Pashmina shawl, rinsing is another vital step, which has to be taken equal care of. Never wring your shawl, lest you get infinite wrinkles in it. Instead, squeeze it between your hands and let the extra water go. Wringing a Pashmina shawl will just cause wrinkles, which won't go easily. 

During the Drying process

Drying a Pashmina shawl is again a critical stage that needs conscious efforts. If you tumble dry your shawl, the wrinkles caused will be difficult to remove. Instead, layer your shawl between two dry and clean towels and roll all layers together. This will remove the extra water out of the fine fabric, as well as make sure wrinkles are not caused at all. Later, keep the shawl flat on a surface, till its air dries completely. 

During Storage

Storing a Pashmina Shawl is a challenge too, provided you have full knowledge of how to do it. If you store Pashmina shawls without properly folding them, you might get a wrinkled piece the next season. Store Pashmina shawls in clean, dry and moisture-free places. Do not place them one over the other to reduce friction and piling. Instead, place a separating cloth in between each. If you just throw a shawl in your cupboard or bag without neat folding, the wrinkles might deepen and refuse to go the next year. 

How do you get wrinkles out of Pashmina shawls?

If, even after taking precautions, somehow your Pashmina shawl has wrinkles over it, do not worry much, we have got cures for it too. 

Method 1: Hanging your Pashmina spread will make most of the wrinkles go. Hang your Pashmina unbunched for a couple of days till you feel it is smooth. Leaving your Pashmina alone for some days will help it regain its smoothness, fluffiness, and shed those ugly wrinkles that make it look damaged. 

Method 2: If the wrinkles are too deep and you find that hanging alone won't help, then you might have to iron it, which will require the following steps. 

• Lay out your ironing board. Make sure its covering is clean and dry. 
• Pre-warm your iron to a moderate heat
• Keep a cotton cloth between the iron and the shawl, and avoid making direct contact between the two. 
• Iron the shawl by moving the iron up and down, and not left to right direction to preserve the fibre. 

Method 3: If even this fails, contact your laundry. If you trust your dry cleaner, ask them for assistance. They have professional ironing specialists, who will get rid of the wrinkles in the cleanest fashion. Make sure they have experience of dealing with Pashmina shawls. 

Properly caring about your Pashmina extends its life and you can revel in the luxury of your  Pashmina shawl for an entire lifetime. 

Also read: Kashmiri Shawls: Who introduced shawls in Kashmir?

While shawls have been worn as a necessity in the past, today, these are just fashion accessories that perk up plain outfits. In Kashmir, shawls mean those wraps that are used to keep warm. These are worn around the upper body and can be pulled over the head if temperature demands. 

Shawls in Kashmir

Kashmiri shawls are used synonymously with Pashmina shawls. Pashmina shawls are made from Cashmere wool, which comes from Ladakh. Even though Kashmir produced other shawls too, which are crafted using other warm materials, it is just the Pashmina shawls that spread their charm across the world and swooned royals as well commoners. 

In Kashmir, primarily three types of shawls are found. The most precious, fine, and warm is the Shahtoosh shawl. Shahtoosh wool is acquired from the Tibetan Antelope, which grows as a defense mechanism against the freezing climate. The wool is manually processed and converted to luxury shawls. Unfortunately, Shahtoosh shawls were banned back in the 1990s in Kashmir, as it gave rise to animal cruelty. The Tibetan antelope would be mercilessly killed for its wool. 

The second type of shawls in Kashmir was the Pashmina shawls, which were processed from the downfibre of Cashmere goats. The goats are inhabitants of the Himalayas region around Ladakh and grow Cashmere wool. This wool is fine, soft, smooth, and extraordinarily warm. It is acquired from the goat by gently combing its body during the moulting season. This wool, too, is manually processed and converted to shawls. Pashmina shawls enjoy worldwide fame because neither are these made cruelly nor are they whoppingly expensive like Shatoosh. 

The most commonly used shawls in Kashmir are the raffal shawls. Raffal shawls are made out of sheep wool, and are commonly used for casual purposes. These can be embroidered in the heaviest motifs, as they are durable and can take every harsh prick of the thickest needles well. 

Also read: Pashmina goat farming and its impact on the economy

Pashmina of Kashmir

The world-famous Pashmina shawls of Kashmir are synonymously mentioned for Kashmiri Shawls. The raw material for Pashmina shawls comes from Ladakh, where the Changthangi goats grow it. The wool keeps the goat safe and helps it survive the winter temperature of minus 40 degrees C. This is how warm it is, even if it is super lightweight and fine. 

As soon as Spring arrives, it begins the moulting period of the goat and it starts losing its hair. This is collected by the herders and sent to Kashmir for processing. 

In Kashmir, womenfolk clean and hand-spin the wool. Spinning converts lumps of Cashmere wool to long and fine threads, which measure 12 to 16 microns in diameter. These are later handwoven by one or two men. After a few days, working for at least 8 hours a day, these weavers complete one Pashmina shawl. 

Being manually processed, Pashmina shawls retain the finesse and smooth texture that is inherent to Cashmere wool. Pashmina shawls are warm, beautiful and timeless, and hence world famous. Europeans learned about the Kashmiri Shawl through Francis Berner who visited Kashmir in 1964 and wrote about the opulence and the softness of this shawl. Post this, these luxury pieces were exported in large quantities to Europe and many other nations of the world. 

Kashmiri Shawls for Kashmir

For Kashmir, Pashmina did not only get prestige but a huge economic boost. The furor and passion for Pashmina in European nations began with Napoleon Bonaparte gifting his wife a Kashmiri shawl when he came back from an Egyptian campaign. This brought the love of Paris to Kashmir, as women from Paris ordered hundreds of Kashmiri shawls. It is believed that in the 19th century, Kashmiri shawls were used as wedding gifts in France and England.

Even though Kashmiri shawls had a great competition with the Iranian woven shawls, many attempts from weavers could not make a copy of the Kashmiri shawl. The real and original Kashmiri shawl was woven from pure Cashmere from Ladakh. It would be brought in a raw shape to Kashmir, and the artisan would magically transform it into luxury shawls and scarves. Some shawls were hand-embroidered in such an intricate and profuse fashion that they cost more than 100 pounds. The shawls were exported from Kashmir, most of the produce went to France. It is said that 80% of Kashmiri shawls were exported to France, 10% to the US, 5% to Italy, and the rest to other importing nations 

Who introduced shawls in Kashmir?

It was in the 15th century when Kashmir was ruled by Mughals, that a Persian traveller visited the region. As he wandered around, spreading knowledge and religion, he came across the Cashmere goat in Ladakh. He ordered the herders to collect its wool, and get it processed. Artisans processed this wool and crafted a pair of socks for the then king - Zain ul Abideen.

The king was highly impressed with the quality, warmth, and finesse of these socks, and later ordered processing units of Cashmere wool to be set up in Kashmir. The Persian traveler was Mir Syed Ali Hamdani, and he brought with himself a team of craftsmen. These were 700 in total and trained the local artisans in a number of handicrafts. Among these crafts, Pashmina shawl making was preferred by the majority of the craftsmen, and hence began the perpetual handcrafting of Kashmiri shawls in Kashmir, and their export to nations worldwide. Europe was the largest exporter of Kashmiri shawls since the 18th century

The people of Kashmir owe the introduction of shawls in Kashmir to Mir Syed Ali Hamdani, and call him Shah E Hamdan popularly. Had he and King Zain ul Abideen together not put efforts into training the locals, perhaps the art would never have reached Kashmir, and the wool of the goat would have been a waste. But because of their conscious efforts and continuous endeavors, the quaint valley of Kashmir soon turned into a hub of handicrafts, and patrons all over the world visited this place to see Kashmiri shawls apart from other art forms that the artisans excelled in.

Also read: The Art of Weaving a Pashmina shawl

One of the heritages that India enjoys is located on its Northern side. It is the Himalayan range that houses the Pashmina goat that grows fine Cashmere wool on its body. The wool is world-famous for being warm, soft, fine, and luxurious. Cashmere is actually the down fibre of this goat which it grows as a means to survive the climate. Cashmere wool is also called Pashm, which literally translates to soft gold. It is India that produces the best Pashmina, yet the annual production is less than 1% of the total world production. 

In India, there are mainly two types of Cashmere producing goats. One is the Chegu and the other is the Changthangi. Chegu is a Cashmere bearing goat and is found in the areas of Kinnaur in Himachal Pradesh and some high altitude areas of Uttarkashi, Chamoli and a few districts of Uttaranchal located near the Himalayas. The Changthangi goat is reared in Changthang, Ladakh which is located over 15000 feet above sea level. The average temperature this area witnesses is +40 to -40 degrees C. This is considered one of the harshest temperatures in the world. 

Rearing Changthangi goats for Cashmere is the economic mainstay for the locals as more than half of their income depends on the Pashmina shawls of Kashmir.

Difference between Cashmere and Pashmina 

Before moving forward, understanding the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina is a must. Cashmere is the raw wool that grows on the Himalayan goat (Chegu or Changthangi). Pashmina, on the other hand, is the art of processing this Cashmere wool preparing luxury shawls, scarves or wraps. 

How Special is Pashmina?

Pashmina shawls come from the Cashmere wool of Ladakh. These are cherished by women from around the world for their warmth, fine texture, lightweight and immense softness. Pashmina shawls take dyes well and look equally graceful with dyes as they look in their natural shades. Owing to the minute size of each Cashmere fibre (12 to 16 microns diameter), the shawls require manual labour and years to complete. As such, these luxury accessories are highly prized and fairly so. 

Changthang and the Pashmina Goat

‘Chang’ means ‘Northern’ and ‘Thang' means ‘Plains’. It is a high altitude plateau in Leh, in the Ladakh region, and is bordered by China in the East. 

Changthang is occupied by Buddhist nomads, and have been doing so for centuries now. This tribe is called the Changpa tribe who are known to have adapted to the cruel winds and harsh climate of the plateau. They have been successful in this endeavour, as their history of living in these conditions dates back to centuries. 

Changpas are a pastoral community, who move from place to place with their animals. Their animals are the only mode of survival for them, and the people are wholly dependent on this livestock. The livestock, in turn, is dependent on the nomads for feeding them, taking them from place to place, and finding habitats for them that are rich in grass and water for their survival. The main occupation of the Changpa tribe is animal husbandry. It is due to the meticulous efforts of this Changpa tribe that Cashmere wool becomes available easily to Kashmiri artisans. It is their constant battle against the harsh life and pain stalking efforts to raise these animals all along the winter season so that they can grow fine and soft Cashmere in Spring. 

The temperature in Changthang falls to -40 degrees C in winter and +40 in summer. Summer is brief, and the temperature is high in the day but can fall abruptly at night. Due to the high altitude and thin air, there is a high degree of radiation in Ladakh. Plant growth is minimal due to low precipitation.

Also read: Is Cashmere Worth it?

The Pashmina Goat

Pashmina goats are also known as Cashmere goats (as they produce Cashmere, Changthangi goats owing to their habitat) or the Changpa goats (named after their herders). These goats are of medium height (just 70 to 80 cm). The average weight of the male is 45 kg, and that of the female is approximately 35 kg. The goats have wide horns, blocky buildup, and perfectly refined features. Pashmina goats appear in a number of colours. The most predominant colour of a Pashmina goat is white. Other than white, the goats can be black, brown, red, ash or cream. The goats aren't docile and lazy, but alert and cautious. This is owing to their feral ancestry. 

The whole body of a Changthangi goat is covered in hair - guard hair and Cashmere. Just its face and muzzle are without hair. Their ears are small, and their body is straight and heavy. The fine Cashmere grows mostly on their underbelly, neck and behind the ears. It is from these areas that herders gently comb out the wool and send it for further processing to Kashmir. The procedure is safe for the goat, and no animal is harmed in the process of wool acquisition. 

Types of Pashmina goats

Based on a number of physical features and the quality of Cashmere that they produce, Pashmina goats are classified into four main types: Western, eastern, northern and the Pashmina mohair crossbreed. 

• The Western Type Pashmina Goat: The main feature that differentiates this goat type from others is its high production of Cashmere and the coarser feel it gives. Their undercoat is longer than the other counterparts. The undercoat fibre diameter is believed to be 18 to 20 micros, which can be considered as an average quality Cashmere. 
• The Eastern Type Pashmina goat: The feature that separates Eastern Pashmina goats from the others is a long outer coat which protects short undercoat fibre. The production of Cashmere in these goats is around 350 grams (for females). The best and healthiest of these animals produce even more than this. These are primarily found in Mongolia
• Feral and Northern goats: Feral goats which are re-domesticated are relatively new when it comes to Cashmere production. They produce less undercoats and for this reason, they are usually neglected. 
• Crossbred goats (Mohair and Pashmina): If Mohair and Pashmina goats are crossbred, it leads to an increase in fibre length, strength, weight and diameter.

Life with the Pashmina goat

The tough and active Changthangi goats are very well adapted to their living conditions and migratory life. Survival is at times hard in the Changthang region, but the goats know how to. Their herders are a Buddhist nomadic tribe called Changpa. Changpa lives in large circular tents with a heating system installed at the centre of them. Changpa takes their animals out during the day to graze and return back to their shelter at night. Although these herds are migratory, the nomads have already marked grazing areas for summers and winters separately. 

Harsh climatic conditions in Changthang induce the production of Cashmere on the goats. This is nature’s gift for insulation. Nature has also bestowed the animal an adaptation to the meagre vegetation of its habitat. The Changthangi goats hence prefer to survive on a sparse diet and shrubs to rich grass. 

Moulting season starts by the end of winter, in March. It is during this time that the goat starts losing hair, and by summer, has lost a large portion. Herders gently comb the left out portion with the use of specialised combs and tools. This hair is packed in small packets and sent to Kashmir for processing. The processing of fine Cashmere means cleaning it, spinning it and weaving it manually to produce luxury Pashmians shawls, scarves and wraps. Cashmere is also used to make furnishing items, blankets, apparel, socks, pocket squares and other accessories. 

Also read: Do vegans wear Cashmere Scarf?

Breeding in Pashmina goats

Breeding in Pashmina goats takes place in the month of November and December. The birth of a new one takes place in around April or May. The kid mortality is, however, low. The weaning of a newborn goat is done at 4 months of age. 

The reproductive traits of the goats are significant for a herder. To maintain the population of his herd, he needs to keep a check on the reproductive age, gestation period, time of birth, intervals between two births and even the litter size of the goat. The birth of a single goat is common among Changthangi goats, and twinning is rare. The gestation period for Cashmere goats of Ladakh is 150 days. 

Production of Pashmina around the world

As far as the total production of Cashmere is considered around the world, it is China and Mongolia that top the list. While China produces 70% of the total Cashmere production, Mongolia ranks second and produces 20%. India constitutes just 1% of the world Cashmere production.

Cashmere yield by male goats (bucks) is lower than that produced by does. Pashmina yield in one goat, on average, is just 80 grams when combed at first. Then it gives 150 grams at the second clip and 250 at the third. This number gradually decreases with more clips. The length of the fibre is more in male production than that in females.

Properties of the Pashmina fibre

Pashmina shawls are world-famous for their quality of being fine and lightweight. This finesse is owing to the fineness of the Cashmere fibre that grows on the body of Changthangi goats. The fineness of a fibre dictates the quality of the final product. If at all the fibre diameter exceeds a certain limit, it is not considered Pashmina at all. It is for this reason that the Changthangi goat is considered to produce the best quality Cashmere, as the wool produced on its body is the finest. 

Fibre fineness differentiates Cashmere fibre from the wool fibre. The average fibre fineness of Cashmere fibre is 12 to 16 microns. The average length is 55 to 60 mm. Cashmere fibre is protected by guard hair which is thicker than what it stores. 

The weather conditions of Changthang are essential for Cashmere to be of a particular thickness. If Changthangi goats are moved just a few kilometres down the plateau, they will not be able to produce fine Cashmere. The thickness of wool increases as one moves the goat from its original habitat.

Also read: Which country has the best Cashmere?

Diseases prevalent in Pashmina goats 

It is a rare phenomenon to see Changthangi goats getting a disease. Most of the animals suffer from a retarded or stunted growth. It is just problems related to indigestion that attacks these goats. This can be accredited to the intake of parasitic grasses, which leads to the growth of ringworms or tapeworms. For these reasons, at times the goats receive vaccinations. At some properly organised farms, herders give their animals antiparasitic drugs two times a year to avoid the growth of ticks. But, since all farms are not organised, and usually these animals keep roaming around the Himalayas with their herders, it is not possible to go for vaccines and medicines. For this reason, mortality has increased in the goats. 

Concluding

The fine and luxuriously soft wool bids farewell to Ladakh, and enters Kashmir to get processed by the golden specialist hands of the artisans. Wool gets converted to opulent shawls in the valley and is exported to nations all over the world.

One can owe the existence of Pashmina shawl, and the mere possibility of having them, to the Changpa tribe and their goats. It is just because the Changpa rear goats with painstaking efforts that we have the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl. On the other hand, in the cruel winters, the goats survive only because of the wool growing on their bodies. 

To the Changpa tribe and the goats that they rear, we can credit the fame and acclaim that Kashmir got in the 18th century. The local Mughal royals were absolutely swooned by its beauty and hence introduced it to the entire world. Also, it was Europe and many of its nations that were captivated by the elegance and beauty of Kashmiri shawls. Little did they know that it was the Changpa tribe that worked their blood and sweat to take care of these animals. And that, how strong and sturdy the animals are to survive one of the world’s most harsh conditions. 

Also read: The Cadence in the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl

Pashmina shawls have often been considered synonymous with luxury. When it comes to attending extravagant events, women around the world often love to pick a Pashmina shawl. This showcases their grand taste of accessorizing. This tradition was started by the Mughal rulers in India. They introduced the trend of wearing elaborate shawls on an everyday basis and Pashmina shawls during that time were so expensive that only the kings could afford them anyway. 

Presently Pashmina shawls are indeed expensive. But there are a few versions of Pashmina that are quite affordable by the younger generation. Plain Pashmina shawls, prints, and patterns, and a large number of minimalistically crafted shawls are largely worn by women on a regular basis owing to their affordability. However, profusely designed exquisite shawls still hold the same status, as they did centuries ago in the Mughal era. Hence these are chosen by women to be worn on special events like a luxury weddings. Here are a few Kashmiri Pashmina shawls that are ideal to wear at weddings. 

Kani Pashmina Shawls

What better to stun the onlookers than a Kashmiri Kani shawl. Kani shawls have a history of being the most luxurious accessory in India as well as the West. It was a Kani shawl that Emperor Napoleon gifted to his style icon wife Empress Josephine. She later owned a few hundred Kani shawls after making it immensely popular among the masses. 

The making of Kani shawls is entirely different from the making of the other varieties of shawls. While other Pashmina shawls use Cashmere wool as a warp and wefts in the weaving process, Kani shawls are made in a different way. The warp shawls are indeed the Cashmere threads, spun earlier by womenfolk, but the wefts are a different set of colourful threads. These foreign threads are wound around small wooden bobbins called Kanis. Threads from Kanis interfere with the Cashmere warp, intersecting them at different levels. This creates breathtakingly beautiful motifs over the shawl and makes it a work of pure art and flawless skill. 

Kani shawls take over 4 years to complete, as artisans can weave just 1 sq inches of the shawl per day. These are some of the most expensive shawls as far as Pashmina shawls are considered. Kani shawls are usually worn by the bride, especially when she leaves her native place with her partner. 

Sozni Jamawar Pashmina

As far as embroidery shawls are considered, a Sozni Jamawar shawl is the most popular and preferred one. Sozni Jamawar shawls are those where a Pashmina shawl gets hand embroidered in the most intricate and fine threads, all over its plush base. As soon as a solid Pashmina shawl is handcrafted, it is handed over to embroidery artisans. The artisans start by stamping the shawl as per the design given by a professional designer.

This stamp is followed by a series of colourful threads, which are intricately embroidered onto the base. This is done by the most proficient and patient embroidery artisans. Brilliant and pastel-shaded threads are used in perfect combinations with the shawl, and the shawl is profusely filled with embroidery, such that the base is barely visible or not visible at all. This is the Sozni Jamawar Shawl. It is a luxury shawl worn by either the bride herself or her mother. ‘

Many women prefer gifting a Sozni Jamawar Pashmina shawl to the bride. They consider it the best gift as it reminds the newlywed of her culture and tradition. 

Also read: Which shawl is famous in the world?

Papier Mache Jamawar

A distinct type of embroidery is done on Pashmina shawls, which is more brilliant and colourful than Sozni embroidery. This one is called the paper mache, as it takes inspiration from the regal art of Papier-mache (where pounded paper is converted to utility and decorative items). The embroidery on this shawl is thicker and bright colours are used mostly. The motifs too are different, and large spaces are filled with thick threads that make these shawls look like pieces of art. 

Papier-mache embroidery too is preferred when it comes to luxury wedding wear for the bride or her family members. Over a warm coloured outfit, a white Papier Mache Jamawar Pashmina shawl looks overwhelmingly beautiful and alluring. 

Reversible Shawls (Aksi Dorukha)

When reversible shawls were handcrafted for the first time, common people were awestruck by the creativity of the master craftsmen who crafted them. The shawls were as beautiful from the front as they were from the back; hence could be worn from both sides. These shawls started as plain shawls, and the two sides would simply be of two different colours.

A variation of reversible shawls was the Aksi Do Rukha embroidered shawls. These were reversible shawls with Jamawar embroidery, where both sides, front and back, of the shawl, were embroidered. The embroidery patterns on the front and back looked like mirror images of each other. This super luxurious and extravagant shawl was the most expensive Pashmina shawl ever. The fine and lightweight Pashmina shawl could not have borne the weight of embroidery, had not the artisans chosen the even finer Sozni Kari to embellish it. 

Aksi Do rukha shawl, being the most intricate and grand of all shawls, is the one used by the most affluent and indulgent brides, who own almost all luxuries of life. 

Tilla embroidered Pashmina Shawls

For an ethnic wedding, the shimmers of Tilla Dozni look so fine. Tilla embroidery is the one where metallic threads are dipped in gold and silver and then embroidered over shawls in classic motifs primarily. The shawls hosting Tilla threads were once used by Mughal to decorate their courts. This is because the glimmery look of Tilla made their courtrooms even more extravagant. Tilla shawls can be gifted to the bride so she can wear them on her new journey. 

A luxury wedding is full of lavish and exaggerated accessories, owned by guests and the hosts. And we believe nothing is more luxurious than a finely crafted Pashmina shawl. It is timeless, ageless, and looks exceptionally graceful and beguiling, besides emphasizing the fact that tradition is beautiful.  

Also read: Aesthetic Pastels Of Embroidered Pashmina

Beyond the uniqueness of Pashmina Art is its presence in the form of Luxurious accessories. The defined styles like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls are explicit. The diverse designs in the cradle of Pashmina Art are versatile as well as luxurious. There are intricate, embellished and marvellous designs that confer to the reality of fashion. Pashmina Art is the world for ages. The history depicts its presence in the most opulent ways. The saga of Pashmina Art is illustrated most naturally. The beauty of luxury is seen in the sphere of Kashmir Valley. The intricacy and precision in the Pashmina Art are up to the mark of authenticity.

The finest Cashmere wool from Ladakh

From the Changhthanghi mountain, the beginning of the journey starts. There is the dwelling of rare species of goats called Changra Goats. The Changra goats are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. These are mainly herded by the tribe of Changpa. In the Changhthanghi region, the temperature goes to -20°C in winters. Thus, the Changra goats develop an undercoat of thick wool over their bodies. Thus, protecting themselves from the harsh climate. The wool is thick and soft. It is called Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool of Ladakh is the finest among all the production of Cashmere wool. There are several breeds of goats that produce the Cashmere wool. But, the finest among all is the Ladakhi Cashmere wool.

The Advent of Pashmina Art

It all started when a Persian saint was travelling across the globe. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. Thus, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvellous wool. Amazed with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles. Even the name Pashmina, derived from the Persian word, pashm, meaning "the soft gold" is exquisite in being.

Pashmina Art- After procurement of finest Cashmere

Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Cashmere wool in the sphere of heritage and artisans in Kashmir. The crafting leads to explicit accessories that speak of luxurious fashion in diverse ways. After the tufts of wool reach the Valley of Kashmir, the wool is cleaned and soaked. This marks the beginning of Pashmina Art. Further, the cleaned and soaked wool is dried in nature to preserve the essentiality in its natural form. The cleaned and dried Cashmere wool is distributed to the local households of the Valley. There begins the next step of Pashmina Art, Spinning. Spinning is the translation of fine Cashmere wool to finest Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. Spinning is mainly done by the womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley.

Moreover, the unique definition of Spinning is acquainted with the essence of precision and diligence. Women work meticulously on the yinder to produce Cashmere yarn of high quality. The process of Spinning is accompanied by an aura of culture in the households.

In addition, the Cashmere yarn thus produced confers to the purest and finest yarn of 12 to 16 microns. Thus, the finest Cashmere yarn moves further in the procedure radiating the Art of Pashmina.

Also read: CASHMERE- THE FINEST PATH OF PASHMINA ART

Weaving of Fine Cashmere

After the process of Spinning, the process of transforming Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric begins. It is done by the process of Weaving. It is the translation of Cashmere yarn to Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the weavers of the Kashmir Valley profoundly weave the fine yarn to the fine fabric on the handloom made of forest wood. The process of weaving is to use Cashmere yarn to create warps and wefts. Thus, producing a whole fine Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the Cashmere produced is given the required dimensions. Thus, diverse styles like Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps, and Pashmina Shawls are made.

The Luxurious Collection of Pashmina Art

The Luxurious Collection of Pashmina Art is celebrated to the mark of authenticity. There is a diverse range of Cashmere accessories that further go into the designing process after weaving. The distinct designs in weaves, embroideries, prints, embellishments and dyes are exquisite. There are three major styles; Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps and Pashmina Shawls. Likewise, these styles undergo several design aspects. Thus, producing a wide range of luxurious accessories.

We, at Pashmina.com, confer to such luxurious accessories to be presented in fashion. The essence of fashion needs to be enhanced by the quality of accessories and attires. Thus, we directly take our collection from the cradle of Kashmir. Also, the highly skilled artisans of the Valley are irreplaceable as the lifelong generational skill acquired is versatile. The unique designs include several ways to wear every masterpiece. The artisans preserve the artistic, aesthetic as well as cultural beauty of Pashmina Art. Thus, we belong to Pashmina Art of Kashmir Valley. In return, the fineness of quality is cherished.

Also read: WHAT IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE CASHMERE?

Have you wondered about those exquisite collections of finest attires? Where do these come from? How are they crafted? Everything seems to have one common journey. The journey starts from the cold mountain of Ladakh and blooms in the Valley of Kashmir. The journey of bliss reveals the treasure of the fine Cashmere collection. The premium wool, obtained from the Changra Goats of Ladakh is finest. Thus, the fine wool in the horizon of Kashmir Valley to attain supreme quality accessories is versatile. The beauty and blessing of unique Pashmina Art confer to the versatile dimensions of each style.

The Inception of Ladakh Cashmere wool

It all starts in the region of Ladakh. The temperature in the mountain of Changhthanghi goes to a minimum of 20°C. Nature inhibits many movements. But, a rare breed of goats called Changra Goats dwells in this harsh climate. To combat this winter, they develop thick wool on their bodies. Also called Kashmir Goats. Medium-sized Goats with two twisted horns are Changra. Mainly grazed for the production of fine Wool. The fine wool they develop in the winter season is naturally shed off against rocks, trees by them. Moreover, the herders of the Changpa tribe also manually comb out the wool. The fine wool is called Cashmere wool.

Also read: PASHMINA GOAT FARMING AND ITS IMPACT ON THE ECONOMY

In the Valley of Kashmir

The first step after the arrival of tufts of Cashmere wool is the cleaning. The Cashmere wool, thoroughly cleaned and dried to get the grime out. Afterwards, the cleaned Cashmere is distributed to the households of the Valley. Therefore, the womenfolk work upon the fine Cashmere wool to craft it into finest Cashmere yarn by the process of Spinning. It is the process of translating the fine wool to Cashmere yarn on a wooden wheel called yinder. The women meticulously craft the fine wool to Cashmere yarn for the next process ahead.

Weaving is the next step in Pashmina Art. It is the process of crafting the fine yarn into premium Cashmere fabric. The highly skilled artisans work on the handlooms set up in the local workshops/ karkhanas. Handlooms mostly made of forest wood are prefered. Also, the artisans mainly men artisans work meticulously on the fine yarn. By creating magical warps and wefts by using their hands and feet, the fabric comes into existence. The supremely premium fabric, turned to the further steps of designing is premium.

The process of designing commences as soon as the faith of finest Cashmere is adorned. The marvellous hands of artisans whirl in the designs and sing songs of art on the finest Cashmere. The surrounding aura of the valley signifies the profound design in diverse ways. Thus, there are three main styles in the Pashmina Art; Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. It is to be noted that Pashmina Art is the crafting of the finest Ladakhi Cashmere to a diverse range of accessories in distinct designs.

1. Ladakh Cashmere Wraps

In literal words, Wrap means the outer cover. In the Art of Pashmina, the finest wool is obtained from the Changra Goats and crafted in the sphere of Kashmir Valley. The finest wool is cleaned, dried, spun and woven by highly skilled artisans. Thus, the meticulous processes belong to the authentic crafting of Cashmere Wraps. Therefore, Cashmere Wraps are profoundly crafted on the horizon of Kashmir Valley.

Cashmere Wraps are the exquisite outer clothing of the finest wool.They can be with every attire of any generation. The traditional and contemporary designs in the style of Cashmere Wraps are profound and well defined. The marvellous designing including patterns, prints, weaves and hand embroideries confer to the definition of fineness and luxury. The fashion quotient of your presence is multiplied manifold by adorning the exquisite Cashmere Wraps.

2. Ladakh Cashmere Scarves

Cashmere Scarves belong as accessories that are worn in the presence of Luxurious fashion. Thus, the unique crafting of Cashmere Scarves requires the artistic hand of Artisans. The artisans of the valley considered skilled artisans who are the masters of the Pashmina Craft. In addition, generations of artisans are working in the tranquil field of Pashmina. They breathe Pashmina, they live underneath Pashmina. Therefore, the exquisite craft is dignified in the realms of Kashmir Valley. The profound craft feels the dimensions of Cashmere Scarves.

Cashmere Scarves accessories used to adorn the beauty of luxury are versatile. Thus, usually draped around the neck to embellish the fine beauty of the wearer. Thus, the beauty of wearing Cashmere Scarves of every design radiates a journey of the finest Cashmere from Ladakh.

Also read: DO VEGANS WEAR CASHMERE SCARF?

3. Pashmina Shawls from the Finest Ladakh Cashmere

Pashmina Shawls, exquisitely crafted supreme accessories worn over the upper body to provide warmth are versatile. In traditional times, the Pashmina Shawls are profoundly crafted to adorn the royals and locals. Thus, they embellished their selves with the luxury of Pashmina Art. In the contemporary age, the new generation benefited themselves with Pashmina Shawls of eloquent designs.

Pashmina Shawls belong to collections of designs crafted diligently. Therefore, the Pashmina Shawls with diverse designs dwell in the Valley of Kashmir for fashionable luxury. In addition, pashmina Shawls of various fortunes in the fashion world eloquently define luxury. Thus, Pashmina Shawls have versatile designs in every form.

Also read: PASHMINA SHAWLS FOR A LUXURY WEDDING

The Marvelous Collection

We, at pashmina.com, belong to the sense of originality and essence of luxury. The journey from Ladakh to Kashmir Valley is explicit. The beauty of every masterpiece of Pashmina Art is tranquil in its creation. Therefore, the highly skilled artisans whirl their creativity unto the divinely fine Cashmere. Moreover, it's a complete blend of artisanal skill with the heritage of Valley. Moreover, the intricacy of each style and design performs the harmony of fashion. The luxurious presence of every masterpiece is exquisite. Thus, the definition of Pashmina Art is the crafting of fine Ladakhi Cashmere to the utmost luxurious accessories. Therefore, having one of the beauties of our collection of Pashmina Art will enhance the surrounding with a fiesta of fashion.

Also read: AN AVALANCHE OF FINEST CASHMERE

The art of Pashmina is princely. The way it is carried out by the surpassingly skilled artisans of Kashmir valley is conspicuous and admirable. The making of Pashmina shawls in Kashmir is not an easy task at all. In fact, we would call it a fairly challenging task for the artisans, as they spend years of their life crafting one such shawl. For this reason, Pashmina shawls are considered a pure luxury, owing to their making and high quality. Other than being warm, soft and lightweight, Pashmina shawls of Kashmir carry the honour of being handmade, which makes them special and revered.

Origin of Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina shawls came into existence in the 15th century in Kashmir. This was when a Sufi saint by the name of Syed Ali Hamdani visited the valley from Persia. The saint during his trip to Ladakh discovered a super fine fleece growing on the body of a goat in Ladakh. He ordered its herders, who collected it, to process it into a pair of socks. The socks were presented to the then king of the valley - Zain ul Abideen - who was exceedingly impressed by the sheer softness and warmth of the socks. He immediately ordered processing units to be set up in the valley, which could process Cashmere and create fabric out of it. 

Processing of Pashmina Shawls

Thus, since the 15th century, the processing of raw Cashmere wool started in Kashmir. The fine fleece of the goat in Ladakh would be collected in summer, as spring would mark the moulting period for the animal. The goats would lose their hair in March, and the herders would collect the same. Up to the month of May, all the fleece from the goat's body is gone, either by natural shedding or by the gentle combing that herders carry out in summer. This wool is packed in small bags and sent to Kashmir for processing. Since its discovery, Cashmere has been processed in Kashmir. Ladakh itself does not have skilled manpower to process the wool. 

Making of the shawl in Kashmir

On its arrival in the valley, the artisans start by cleaning it. The wool is full of dirt, dust and animal/vegetable wastes which need to be removed, along with the guard hair. This is done and the clean wool meets its spinners. Spinners are womenfolk from the most remote areas of the valley, who convert lumps of wool to fine yarn with the help of a traditional spinning wheel called Yinder locally. It is a harmonious movement of the hand and the wheel that creates the finesse and delicate texture of the yarn. This makes Pashmina shawls treasured all over the world. 

Post spinning, the yarn goes to weavers who mount the yarn over wooden handlooms. This yarn is woven for 3 - 4 days continuously to transform it into fabric. The fabric can be a Pashmina shawl, scarf, wrap, baby blankets, adult blankets, furnishing articles and more. The most famous conversion of Cashmere, however, is the Pashmina shawl. 

Also read: Why do babies love Cashmere blankets?

Handmade Pashmina shawls

Handmade is always special. Pashmina shawls are cherished all across nations because it is the meticulous effort and unmatched skill of local artisans that goes into making these. Artisans work for months and even years to prepare one Pashmina shawl. They work their blood and sweat for 8 - 10 hours a day, but put their heart and soul into creating marvels out of Cashmere wool. 

In the times bygone, artisans from Kashmir depended solely on Pashmina art. This was because the skills ran through the families. While women of the family would spin and clean Cashmere wool, men would embroider and weave the same. Thus Pashmina shawls were a family affair. Women would be free from household chores and immediately run to their spinning wheel to quickly finish up this task. On the other hand, men would be engaged in farming activities, and also weave Pashmina shawls the other times. This brought great prosperity and a rise in income for the artisans who enjoyed a special status in society. 

Machine made Pashmina Shawls

The joy and optimism weren't long-lived. Fast fashion forced traders to craft Pashmina shawls at a quick pace, as these would otherwise take years to complete. As a result, the power loom came into existence. Power looms could produce large quantities of shawls in a day as opposed to handcrafting one shawl in a few days! It was a blow to the local artisans, as they suffered huge losses. The machine-made shawls would also be cheaper than the handwoven ones, leading to more sales and demand. 

Machine-made shawls are either hand spun or machine spun (there are machines for spinning too). The yarn hence produced is delicate, as Cashmere originally is. To weave a delicate fibre, handweaving would be the first option. But with power looms, delicate threads of Cashmere had to be put through a lot of mechanical stress. As the fine fibre could not bear this stress, it was blended with strengthening fibre, like silk or nylon, and the shawl thus produced was a mixed variety. 

To get rid of the strengthening fibre from the pure shawl, it was treated with carbonised acid which majorly affects its quality & life. Hence, this shawl is nowhere close to the original Pashmina shawl, as it contains a less percentage of Cashmere, and has a short lifespan. 

Comparison of Handmade and Machine made shawls

A comparison of the qualities of machine-made shawls and handmade shawls will give a clear picture to which ones are the best and why

• Warmth: Machine made Pashmina is nowhere close to handmade Pashmina when it comes to warmth. Warmth is associated with Cashmere wool, and a less percentage of the same will definitely make the shawl less warm, and hence useless. After all, why would one spend thousands of dollars on a Pashmina shawl that does not contain enough Cashmere.
• Fineness: It is Cashmere wool that owes to the lightweight and finesse of a Pashmina shawl. But once you add nylon, silk or merino wool to the original fibre, the shawl does not remain the luxury article it originally was. Hence handmade shawls are super fine and light, but machine made shawls have a comparatively rough touch, more weight and aren’t as fine as the handmade ones.
• Timelessness: Pure Cashmere handmade Pashmina shawls are timeless. These can last for a lifetime. In fact, they do last for more than 30 years without aging. On the contrary, machine made shawls do not last for more than a few years, and wither with age.
• Smooth: Handmade shawls have such a smooth touch. They are feathery soft and silky smooth. But machine made shawls are comparatively less smooth, and not as soft as handmade ones.

Make sure as a customer you always invest in handmade shawls from Kashmir. Machine shawls will never compensate for the luxurious experience.

Also read: Which shawl is famous in the world?

A centuries-old reputation of being simply the best, and considered so all over the world, is what makes the Kashmiri Pashmina Shawl an enshrined treasure. From the local Mughal rulers to Emperors and Empresses in the far West, Kashmiri Pashmina shawls were considered a status symbol. And everyone wanted at least one for a lavish fashion statement. Even women with no knowledge of its acquisition and making wanted shawls that would be the best of all. 

What is a Kashmiri Pashmina Shawl?

A Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is one handcrafted from pure Ladakhi Cashmere by artisans of Kashmir. Pashmina is the regal art of transforming Ladakhi Cashmere into luxury shawls and scarves. It was once popularly used by the royals, rich and affluent segments of society. But soon, it became a day to wear as the younger generation showed interest in it. The fabric of Pashmina shawls is exceptionally luxurious. The art of weaving Pashmina shawls has been passed down to generations together, since the 15th century. Nevertheless, Pashmina shawls have a timeless grace and traditional handweaving makes them even more ageless and treasure-worthy.

The word Pashmina comes from ‘Pashm’, which means ‘soft gold’ in the Persian language. This is because the Cashmere wool that it is made from is luxuriously soft and fine. This makes Pashmina shawls unbelievably delicate, warm, and resplendent. As per a few folklores, Pashmina shawls can even hatch an egg, owing to their luxurious warmth. 

Production of Pashmina

Pashmina shawls are handcrafted out of Cashmere wool that comes from Ladakh. A specific breed of goats found in the Himalayan region on the high altitude of Changthang, Ladakh, grows it. The wool is an undercoat of this goat and protects the animal from the biting cold of the Himalayan region. 

Changthang is a region in eastern Ladakh. It is a newly formed Union Territory in India and an extension of the Tibetan plateau to the west side. Changthang is often called the rooftop of the world. This is owing to its altitude of more than 15000 feet above sea level. It experiences harsh climatic conditions, and the winter temperature drops to -40 degrees C at times, especially in winters. 

Processing Cashmere to Pashmina Shawls

Handcrafting Pashmina shawls is a task. Fleece from the Changthangi goat is acquired manually by middlemen, who sell it to the Kashmiri artisans. The artisans start processing the same and begin cleaning it. Cleaning requires immense patience just like all the other processes. The fibre is cleaned manually by womenfolk of the valley who then take the clean wool lumps for spinning. Spinning is done over a wooden spinning wheel. With the help of perfect harmony between the wheel and the hand, the wool lumps are converted to fine yarn. Next, the yarn is handwoven over traditional handloom. As a result, Pashmina shawls come into existence after 3 - 4 days. 

History of Pashmina Shawls

Some scholars believe that it was the 1st century CE when Kashmiri shawls were famous in the courts of Roman Caesars. But it was only in the 15th century that Pashmina shawls were discovered. The story goes back to the era when a Sufi saint by the name of Syed Ali Hamdan visited Kashmir. The purpose of his visit was a religious one. As soon as he reached Ladakh, he discovered a soft fleece growing on the body of the Changthangi goat. Out of curiosity, he immediately ordered a pair of socks to be crafted from this wool.

The socks were made and presented to the then king of Kashmir, Zain ul Abideen. The king was highly impressed by the quality. He, hence, ordered the setting up of processing units where this fleece would be processed to the fabric. This was the beginning of Pashmina shawl making in Kashmir. During that time shawls were either plain or embroidered with floral, faunal, or geometric motifs.

Pashmina and Mughals

By the 16th century, the Mughal empire had spread across India. It was them who were the patrons of Pashmina art. King Babar is said to have started giving Pashmina as political gifts (called Khilat) to allies, governors, and his officials. This was done to acknowledge their works and contributions. Pashmina shawls were an obsession for the Mughal kings, as these were considered a symbol of prestige for them. It was just because of the reverence and admiration of the Mughals that Pashmina reached its zenith. This was the most glorious period when it came to Pashmina sales and production. The slow and labour-rich art of Pashmina took years of hard work and skillful efforts to bring luxury shawls to customer markets. It is believed that this industry employed around 4000 people of Kashmir back in the era. 

Also read: Pashmina Facts - 10 Amazing Facts about Pashmina

Pashmina in Europe

By the 18th century, Pashmina sales had spread over the European markets and ruled the fashion industry in the West. But Pashmina shawl sales took a new turn when Empress Josephine wore them. She set them to a timeless fashion for all the times to come. Her husband, Napoleon purchased her a Kani shawl during his Egypt campaign and presented it as a gift to her. She loved the quality and look of the shawl so much that later she is believed to own a few hundred shawls. 

Pashmina shawl appeared in a French magazine in the year 1790. By doing so, it instantly gained the status of a regal fashion accessory in France. The French women especially ordered shawls from Kashmir and made it a point to compete with one another on the basis of the quality and looks of the ones they owned. A noteworthy fact about Pashmina is that Cashmere was a term coined by the Europeans who couldn't pronounce Kashmir properly. Cashmere is an anglicization of the word Kashmir, it is used to define the soft and fine wool that is acquired from Ladakh. 

Also read: Pashmina - Creation beyond existence

Copies of the original Pashmina

Popularity of Pashmina spread all over Europe. Owing to this, there were replicas of the shawls produced in Europe as well as India. A large number of traders produced wraps that looked exactly like Pashmina shawls and even sold thousands of them. European traders took Cashmere wool from Kashmir and attempted several versions of the Pashmina shawl at their own hometowns. But no one could craft a shawl as luxurious, fine, and beautiful as the original Pashmina. The finesse of Ladakhi Cashmere and the flawless skill of Kashmiri artisans was an unbeaten combination. Hence Kashmir ruled and still rules the world when it comes to the best quality Pashmina shawls. 

Which shawl is famous in the world?

Undoubtedly, the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is the most famous shawl in the world. In fact, this has been the case since the 16th century. Even now, large groups of Europeans visit the Kashmir valley and look for original Pashmina shawls, even though they have huge replicas present in their hometowns. But the love and adoration that this world-famous shawl has received are purely honourable. 

Also read: Cashmere-The dawn of Pashmina Art

While many owners believe that Pashmina needs professional cleaning, let us debunk this myth for you? It doesn't. Pashmina does not need professional cleaning and can be easily washed at home. Most people around the world feel that a Pashmina shawl, scarf, or sweater might get impaired if washed at home. This is not true, provided that you practice proper action. Amongst all the caretaking of Pashmina shawls or scarves, storing a Pashmina is the most vital step. the way you store your Pashmina this season will dictate its life the next. Hence storage of a Pashmina is critical. but before that, do you know the proper washing and drying of your luxury shawl? Let us start with that first.

How to Wash Pashmina?

Be it any type of wool-like mohair, sheep’s wool, alpaca, or Pashmina shawl (made from Cashmere wool), every kind of wool needs hand washing.

Hand Washing

The hand washing of Pashmina is the safest and the most gentle technique to clean your woolen wraps, or cardigans. The process is simple. All you need to do is fill a tub or basin with tepid water and squirt some Pashmina shampoo into it. These products are easily available in the market nowadays. If you do not have these available, you can use a mild shampoo, maybe a baby shampoo, which will work almost the same. That is not a surprise though, because Cashmere anyway is ‘hair’, and Pashmina shawls are made out of pure Cashmere.

Dip your Pashmina shawl into this water and soap mixture and let it soak for about 30 minutes. Make sure before you dip your shawl, the shampoo is fully mixed into the water. After 30 minutes, take it out and rinse with cold water. Do not wring your Pashmina. Wringing a wet wrap can change its shape, and damage this precious treasure forever. Instead, ball your wrap in your hands, and gently squeeze all the water out.

Machine Washing

Washing Pashmina by hand is the best method. But sometimes you don't have the time or energy to do so. Washing machines can be an option for these busy times, but with proper precaution and TLC. Simply place your shawl into the washing machine, and set it to a cold temperature. It is better you place your wrap in a washing mesh, before placing it into the machine. Now, put the spin on low, and wait for the required time. When the cycle is complete, immediately remove the wrap to avoid its creasing.

Be gentle with the wrap when you are washing it in the machine. Use a hand wash setting, and be sure not to wash it in hot water, or spin it vigorously. Harsh washing can lead to felting or shrinking of a Pashmina shawl or any wool product for that matter.

Also read: Does a Pashmina shawl shrink?

Drying your shawls

Even if you are allowed to wash your Pashmina wraps in washing machines, dryers are a big NO. Dryers tend to shrink wools and deteriorate their quality if used again and again. Drying a Pashmina has to be immensely gentle. Once you are done with squeezing water out of the shawl after washing, lay it flat on a towel. Roll the towel to remove excess water, so that the wrap is semi-dry. Now replace the wet towel with a dry one and let the wrap lay flat on it, and air dry. Never ever hang your Pashmina shawl to dry it. This will again change the figure of your product and sag it forever. 

Keep these delicate babies away from direct sunlight, and let them air dry, even if it takes days together to do so. 

Get rid of stains before storing

Experts suggest using professional help if there is a tough stain on your Pashmina shawl. However, you can buy a mild stain remover, and give it a try at home. If the stain is too tough, call your laundry and hand over your shawl to them. You would never want to damage the entire product for a small stain, would you?

It is necessary that you wash your shawl before you store it for the next season. It should be fresh as new for the next winter. However, washing a Pashmina after every use will only wither it and damage it for the rest of its life. You might end up discontinuing its use after a few years. Instead, wash it just once a year. Once the season of wearing it is over, get it washed right then, and store it at a clean spot. Next season, check if it requires cleaning. If it doesn't, you can wear it straight. If it does, go for a mild hand wash again. 

How to store Pashmina?

Now comes the most important step in Pashmina care. Its Storage! Whether your shawl will be worth using or not for the next season depends on how carefully you store it. Avoid plastic bags, as they are the source of moisture where a moth infestation can thrive in great numbers. Instead, use newspaper stuff paper bags and place your wrap gently into the same. you may also use a muslin cloth to wrap your shawl into. These won’t let moisture enter the wrap, and hence provide greater protection. You can also wrap the shawl into a thick yet breathable cotton fabric through which bugs or dust cannot enter. 

Make it a point that you are storing a clean Pashmina shawl at the end of the season. Being in contact with your body, the wrap might have caught some oils, which can be breeding grounds for moths. Store them clean, so that you find them clean the next season. Make sure the spot where you are storing your shawl is squeaky clean and dry.

If you store your Pashmina shawl in this way, with appropriate and well-deserving care and concern, the life of your shawl will extend for over 20 years. It will be your companion for an entire lifetime. Pashmina shawls have already impressed the world by being an accessory that was passed down to generations. But that was only possible when it was fostered with immense care and attention.

Also read: How can you tell if a scarf is Cashmere?