Kashmiri Pashmina shawls hold a centuries-old prestige owing to the fact that there was nothing as luxurious as these once. The fact that gives more power to the Pashmina shawls’ reputation is that Napoleon once gifted his wife Empress Josephine a Kani Pashmina shawl, which then turned into a globally acclaimed fashion accessory. It was the 18th century, and since then, Pashmina shawls enjoyed a position in global markets like none other. King Napoleon’s is just one narration that has glorified the Pashmina shawls of Kashmir. There are more stories to tell about where Mughal kings of India and rulers of many other nations swooned over the beauty of these elegant accessories, and hence traded these in the largest of quantities.
Why are Pashmina shawls so special?
One of the most opulent and extravagant accessories in the world is the Pashmina shawls that come from Kashmir. Even though shawls made out of Cashmere wool are available in many parts of the world, those made in Kashmir are of the best quality. Here are a number of reasons why Kashmiri Pashmina shawls are the best:
Kashmiri Pashmina is the warmest
Shawls made in Kashmir are the warmest Pashmina shawls. It is said that Pashmina shawls are 8 times warmer than sheep wool shawls. These are made from Ladakhi Cashmere, which is considered one of the warmest down fibres in the world.
The shawls are super lightweight
Even though Pashmina shawls are super warm, yet these are the lightest wrap accessories in the world. One large shawl (100*200 cm) weighs just around 500 grams. Hence these are easy to carry and wrap.
Pashmina shawls are Soft and fine
Pashmina shawls are immensely soft and smooth. A Large shawl can be folded and placed inside a handbag. Such is the softness and finesse of these elegant wraps. Besides, the shawls are smooth against the skin and do not cause allergies. These are also immensely fine and hence weigh less, making them easy to carry anywhere.
Pashmina shawls are versatile
Shawls from Kashmir come in a large variety of designs and patterns. These can be traditionally embroidered or modishly striped and patterned. Hence women of all ages can wear Pashmina shawls. In addition to being suitable for all ages, Pashmina shawls are suitable for all occasions. Some are perfect for weddings, while some are perfect for casual or formal events.
How do you wear a Pashmina over your shoulder?
Wearing a Pashmina has never been a challenge. The shawls themselves offer a large number of styling options, owing to being lightweight and hence manageable. Here are some ways in which shawls can be worn over your shoulders.
Style it in a traditional pattern
Going by traditions, one can drape a Pashmina shawl over their shoulders by placing the centre on the neck. The loose ends will hang evenly in the front of the body and will cover the upper arms. This option is ideal when the weather is cold and all you need is comfort and warmth. One can toss one of the loose ends over the opposite shoulder for a more comfortable experience. Usually, shawls are worn in this way by the elderly woman whose shawls are often embroidered or Kani handwoven.
Tying with a belt
A more contemporary pattern to wear a Pashmina shawl is to tie the shawl around your waist and tie it with a belt. For this, you have to drape the shawl over your shoulders and place both sides in front of your body, covering the chest. Now wrap a stylish belt around the waist to secure the shawl properly and you are good to go!
Wearing a Shawl like a top
One of the coolest ways to wear your shawl is by making a top out of it. Just start by placing the shawl over your shoulders and bringing the loose ends to the front. Now crisscross the ends by bringing the end placed on the right shoulder to the left side of the waist and vice versa. Tie the ends at the back, or secure them with a pin or brooch. You have just worn your shawl like a top, and you look super stylish!
One of the more contemporary and modish ways to wear a shawl over the shoulders is to wear it like a poncho. Drape the shawl from the back and bring it over the shoulder in front of your body. Now secure the edges with small pins, till the shawl forms a closed structure like a poncho.
You can change the place of the edge that bears pins to the side of your arm. This makes the poncho asymmetrical as well as more in vogue.
A very common way of wearing a Pashmina shawl is simply placing the centre of the shawl on one of the shoulders and letting it dangle downwards.
However styled, a Pashmina shawl looks graceful and exceptionally elegant. Whatever occasion or mood, a Pashmina shawl looks unparalleled.
If there is an accessory that is beautifully versatile, it has to be the classic Pashmina shawl from Kashmir. Pashmina is an exquisite craft where masterly skilled artisans convert raw Cashmere wool into classic wrap accessories or apparel or simply fabric. And while apparel has just a single use, it is Pashmina shawls and the fabric with a hundred uses. To know more, let us learn what Pashmina actually is
What is Pashmina?
Pashmina is the exquisite art of transforming raw cashmere wool into luxury accessories or apparel. The word ‘Pashmina’ comes from the word ‘Pashm’ which literally translates to ‘soft gold’. And hence, Pashmina shawls are fine, smooth, lightweight, and comfortably warm.
The factors that make Pashmina shawls one of the most luxurious accessories in the world are their processing steps. Raw Cashmere wool is manually acquired from the Cashmere producing goat which is found 15000 feet above ground level in a place called Changthang. This region witnesses a temperature of -40 degrees C. Even then, dealers, who are the end users of this wool, personally visit the place. Wool is manually combed off from the body of the goat, cleaned, and packed to be sent to Kashmir for processing.
Processing starts with a re-cleaning of raw wool. This wool is later sent for spinning. Spinning transforms the wool into the finest threads (12-15 microns) which are later handwoven. Hand weaving takes place over wooden handlooms where threads are converted to Pashmina shawls. These shawls can later be hand embroidered, printed patterned, or woven in the luxuries of Kani or Do Rukha. This process takes years to complete, and finally, an artistic piece is born.
How do you wear a Pashmina?
Pashmina is versatile. Hence it is used to make shawls, scarves, baby blankets, furnishing, and more. Here are some ways one can use Pashmina:
Wrap your newborn in a Pashmina blanket/shawl
The greatest blessing for a married couple is perhaps their child. A Pashmina can easily be used to wrap the newborn. Nothing will caress his gentle skin like the exceptionally smooth touch of a Pashmina blanket. You can buy a customized Pashmina blanket for your child with his/her initials embroidered on it. What a wonderful gift would that be!
Enrich your home décor with Pashmina
The extraordinarily smooth fabric can be used to enliven the interiors. You can get a Pashmina fabric hand embroidered on the edges and use it as a tablecloth. Or else, you can easily buy a Pashmina blanket in a large size, and place it on your bed to embellish it with the classic luxury of Pashmina art.
Gift a Pashmina shawl to your special ones
The ones you love deserve special care and concern. Buy them a customized Cashmere Pashmina, or a hand-embroidered piece in their favourite colour. The handcrafted beauty of Pashmina art in addition to the pleasant warmth it lends will make the best gift ever.
Use a Pashmina shawl at a beach
On a balmy day, you can use a Pashmina shawl as a sarong to cover up in mild warmth. You can also try tying the Cashmere Pashmina wrap as a shrug for a chic look at the beach. In addition to this, you can cover yourself while relaxing with a Pashmina wrap.
Enliven a blank look
Pashminas come in basic colours but they can be dyed in the brightest shades ever. So if your dress seems too basic or lifeless, you can add a warm shaded Pashmina and pep up your look in a jiffy. We will later discuss more styles to wear a Pashmina shawl with a dress.
Tone down an overdone look
On the contrary, you can even balance your looks with the help of a Pashmina shawl, if your dress seems overdone. Wear a pastel-shaded, or nude-coloured Pashmina with an excessively bright look, and watch the dress mute instantly.
As an accessory for your handbag
An amazing way to pep up a plain solid handbag would be an addition of a colourful scarf. Tie a multicoloured Pashmina shawl or stole with the bag and watch your peers amazed.
Get Pashmina customised for a handkerchief
Pashmina handkerchiefs look so classy. You can customise the handkerchief by getting your initials hand embroidered over it. Or else you can get your company logo hand embroidered over it and use it as a corporate gift.
Here are a number of ways we can style a Pashmina shawl with a dress
Wrapping the Pashmina shawl around the shoulders: Pull your Pashmina shawl over your shoulders and let the two loose ends drape over your arms.
For a more fashion than function look, let the shawl drape over one of your shoulders by placing the centre of its edge on the shoulder.
Use the shawl as an extra layer over your dress by holding two loose ends over a shoulder and securing it with a brooch. This peps up a dull dress in addition to keeping you warm throughout the occasion.
It is needless to say that Pashmina shawl is one of the most versatile art forms in the world. In addition to having so many uses, Pashmina when used as wrap accessories has so many styles to wear. From shawls, stoles and scarves, to chic bag accessories or sarongs, Pashmina is the best thing you can have this fall/winter season. Just make sure you go for a pure one.
Pashmina is an indigenous craft of the Kashmir Valley. It is a traditional craft that depicts heritage in the form of intricacy and beauty. The craftsmanship in Pashmina Craft is the epitome of sophistication and high skill. Pashmina shawls are crafted from the finest Cashmere procured from a rare species of Goats called Changra Goats. The beauty of Pashmina Shawls in the crafting process is a forte of Kashmir Valley. Artisans inspire themselves from nature and craft with high intricacy and diligence to unravel the premium Pashmina Shawls.
The Basic Procurement of fine Cashmere
The Changhthanghi Mountain in the region of Ladakh is at a high altitude. At high altitudes, the temperature goes to the lowest. The winters are the harshest. A rare breed of Goats dwells in the feet of the Changthanghi. They are called the Changra goats. These goats are raised for Cashmere production as well as meat production. The goats are medium-sized, fluffy with two big twisted horns. Also, the goats develop thick wool in the season of winter to combat the cold.
Eventually, when summer arrives, the goats shed off the pelage to get air in the sunshine. Moreover, the wool is also manually combed out by the herders who raise the Changra Goats. The herders are from the Changpa tribe of Changhthanghi. They pack the tufts of wool in small packets and send them to the valley of Kashmir for the Pashmina Art. The wool is called the finest Cashmere wool.
Crafting Pashmina Shawls
The tufts of Cashmere wool reach the valley of Kashmir. Therefore, the Cashmere wool is cleaned, soaked, and dried to get all the grime and dirt out. Afterward, the Cashmere wool moves forward to the next meticulous process. Spinning is the process of transforming Cashmere wool into the finest cashmere yarn. The Art of spinning is mainly done by the women of the Kashmir valley. They have a wheel called yinder onto which they spin the Cashmere wool to Cashmere yarn. After the Spinning process, the fine Cashmere yarn is transferred to the local workshops/karkhanas for Weaving.
Weaving is the process of looming the Cashmere yarn into suitable accessories In the valley of Kashmir, the weaving is done in small workshops where handlooms are set up. The highly skilled artisans weave the magical yarn to significant warps and wefts to give a ravishingly fine Cashmere Fabric. Thereupon, several processes of designing are done by world-class artisans. Also, the artisans work with precision on each and every masterpiece of Pashmina Art. Hence, Pashmina Art blooms the fashion sphere with the finest Cashmere luxuries like Pashmina shawls.
How are Pashmina Shawls crafted?
After weaving a Pashmina Shawl, the journey of different fashions takes place on the unique path of Luxurious Pashmina. Diversified ways of creating these have made fashion visible over so many eras. The various types of Pashmina Shawls are on their way toward being Luxury. Also, the different processes they go through with the skilled hand of artisans from the valley illuminate the luxury over the face of Pashmina.
Pashmina Shawls are versatile in their being. The diverse styles in the horizons of Pashmina Art are exuberant in their designs, patterns, weaves, and embroideries. Also, the integrity and sustainability of the creation confer the unique and meticulous style of processes. Pashmina Shawls are of several designs like Solid, Ombre, Reversible, Patterned, Printed, Hand-Embroidered, Kani, Shibori, Laced, and Swarovski Crystals Pashmina Shawls.
Origin of Pashmina Craft
The journey of the Pashmina dates back to the 13th century in the Kashmir Valley of India. The footprints of a saint from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. The saint landed its appearance on Changthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvelous wool. Enthralled with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan of Kashmir Valley. Thus, by the beauty of Cashmere wool, he suggested making an industry that cultivates Cashmere wool in desirable styles and designs.
Pashmina shawls are Crafted in the regime of Pashmina Craft
Pashmina Shawls are crafted in the sphere of Kashmir. The saga begins with the herding of Changra Goats in Changhthanghi, Ladakh. The Changpa tribe herders manually comb out the fine wool from the Goats that they have developed during the harsh winters. The wool is called Cashmere. It is the finest Cashmere in the world with 12 to 16 microns. The beauty of fine wool is its softness and warmth in each fibre. Afterward, the fine wool is taken to the Valley of Kashmir to make the bounty of accessories. Fine Cashmere is explicitly crafted through the serene steps of Spinning, Weaving, and Designing. Therefore, the premium and Luxurious Pashmina shawls are crafted with utmost diligence by the artisans of Kashmir Valley.
From the horizons of Kashmir Valley, unique styles are devised. The huge collection of styles including Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls are present in the cradle of Kashmir. When the finest Cashmere from Ladakh is brought to the valley of Kashmir, an aura of Pashmina Art befits the legacy of craft. Among diverse styles of Pashmina Art, the designed form of Pashmina Shawls is curated by artisans. The Hand Embroidered Pashmina Shawls are one of a kind. The intricate needle works and threadworks cater to all the fashionistas around the world. The luxurious presence of Pashmina Art in each masterpiece of Hand embroidered Pashmina Shawl glorifies the wearer. Now the question arises, How to elegantly wear Embroidered Pashmina Shawl?
We have made a list of ways by which one can wear the luxurious Pashmina Shawl. Before that, we need to look over its meticulous creation and the saga of its journey to the contemporary age.
The Tale of Pashmina Art
It all started when a Persian saint was traveling across the globe. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. Thus, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvelous wool. Awestruck with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles. Even the name Pashmina, derived from the Persian word, pashm, meaning "the soft gold" is exquisite in being.
The Inception of the finest Cashmere
It all begins in the Changhthanghi mountain of the Ladakh region. The temperature goes to the minimum in this region. A rare breed of goats dwells in the region. These goats are called Changra goats. They are also called Cashmere Goats. The goats develop a pelage of wool in the winter season to combat the harsh weather. Thereafter, in summer they shed off the wool to get the air. The wool is manually combed out by the herders of the Changpa tribe. The Changpa tribe mainly raises these medium-sized Changra goats with two twisted horns. They mainly raise them for wool production. Thus, the wool is called the finest Cashmere wool.
There are diverse breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. The several breeds viz; Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce Cashmere wool that produces warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is rare species of goats
In addition, the Goats produce fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there is almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.
The Crafting of the finest Cashmere
Although there are several breeds of goats all over the world that produce Cashmere. But the finest Cashmere is produced by the Ladakhi Changra goats. In order to curate the fine accessories from the fine Cashmere wool, the tufts of wool are taken to the Kashmir Valley. After the tufts of wool reach the valley of Kashmir, the supremely premium Art of Pashmina is commenced. It is a stepwise procedure of curating fine Cashmere accessories.
The foremost step is cleaning the Cashmere wool. There is a thorough cleaning of the wool to get all sorts of dirt out. After the process of cleaning, the next step is the process of Spinning. It begins by giving the local women the Cashmere wool to spin it fine Cashmere yarn. The womenfolk of the valley mainly spin Cashmere wool. The process is done on the wooden wheel/ charkha called yinder in the local language. Thus, the women artisans meticulously spin the Cashmere wool to the miraculously fine Cashmere yarn.
Weaving and Designing of Embroidered Pashmina
Afterward, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the transformation of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively the masterpiece in itself. The eloquently woven Cashmere fabric goes on to further design.
The diverse designs, patterns, weaves, and embroideries are further done on the Cashmere. The premium Pashmina Art steps ahead with the most explicit and intricate designs. It is to be noted that all the steps in the Art of Pashmina are manually done by the artisans of Kashmir. Thus, the distinct designs cater to a diversity of people and the fashion world.
Today's generation feels the aura of authentic Cashmere in their lifestyles. This proves that not only the royals but also the people of admiration for Pashmina wear the new class Pashmina Shawls. In the contemporary world of fashion, the premium Pashmina Shawls prove to be the confidante of authenticity.
The diverse designs in the style of these Shawls create a sense of luxury upon the wearer. Further, the heritage, culture, and skill of the artisans profuse a dimension of glory in each masterpiece. Therefore, in one or another way, Pashmina Shawls confers premium luxury to both men and women.
The Hand-Embroidered Pashmina Shawls
Embroidered Pashmina is the oldest Craft in the valley of Kashmir. Moreover, the craft has its heritage in the aura of the valley. Kashmir has been the sole region where the craft of embroidered Pashmina is excelled to its height from the 16th century. Moreover, Pashmina Craft has been cherished in the valley for ages. With the growing eras, the craft gleamed in many forms and diverse styles. As we know, it takes all the artistic greatness of skill of Kashmir's weavers, artisans, embroidered, dyers called Rangur, spinners, and designers to make the artwork of Pashmina imbibe all the intricacy and beauty.
There are diverse Hand embroideries viz; Sozni, Tilla Dozi, Aari, Papier Mache, Aksi. Moreover, there are specific motifs and designs that adorn the traditions of the valley reviving heritage in every masterpiece of Pashmina. The designs like; Dor dar/ Neem dar, Buta/ Buti, Hashi, Jalli, Jamawar, and Palla. Also, there are many motifs of flowers, nature, stories of heritage, and the most traditional Paisley. The foremost step after the weaving is to make the imprints by using hand blocks. The designs are imprinted over the wooden blocks for carving by Nakash/designer. In other words, based on the design, a wooden block is carved by a woodcarver diligently specializing in the designs of Embroidered Pashmina Shawls. He engraves the designs on a wooden block. Therefore, a very intricately carved walnut wood block lays the base for the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl.
Types of Hand Embroideries in Pashmina Craft
Skilled artists turn fragile Cashmere fabric into stunning wearable artwork through the highly esteemed art of hand stitching in Pashmina craft. Each stitch in this generation-old technique tells a tale of workmanship, legacy, and culture. It blends patience and perfection. Sozni, Tilla, and Aari are three of the most well-known needlework designs. Silk or woolen thread is used to delicately trace the contours of the Pashmina in Sozni embroidery, which is often done with a fine needle and has elaborate floral and paisley designs that resemble paintings on fabric. The shawl is a visual and physical treat because of the needle's delicate touch, which guarantees that the Pashmina's softness is never compromised.
Pashmina shawls are given a regal touch by tilla work, a sort of zari embroidery utilizing metallic threads. The shawl has an extravagant appeal due to its glistening gold and silver strands, which were once worn by royalty. In the meantime, the Aari embroidery, which is done with a hooked needle, produces a chain-stitch look that gives the patterns depth and texture. One craftsman may spend months working on a single shawl due to the time-consuming nature of the embroidery method. These embroideries are priceless keepsakes that are ageless because of the artisan's talent, the time-honored techniques, and the cultural value of each item.
Hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls are a celebration of tradition, not just style. Every thread relates a tale of the crossroads between Persian, Mughal, and indigenous cultures in Kashmir. With floral arrangements possibly signifying prosperity and paisleys representing eternity, the thoughtful arrangement of motifs alludes to traditional iconography. These embroidery pieces serve as more than just accent pieces; they are a link between generations, conserving methods and histories that are just as priceless as the shawls themselves. Hand-embroidered Pashminas provide a rare, patient luxury in a world that prioritizes speed—where beauty is a product of human hand, tradition, and patience.
Sozni Hand-Embroidery
The exquisite refinement and painstaking detail of Sozni hand-embroidery are well-known, and it is considered a hallmark of Kashmiri workmanship. Using a tiny needle and this stitching method, you can turn fine Cashmere fabric into a work of art by creating beautiful designs on it. The shawl's motifs, which are usually nature-inspired, include graceful vines, flowers, and paisleys that flow in a pleasing pattern. Craftsmen in Sozni work take great care in every stitch; to attain the required intricacy, they may work on a single shawl for months or even years. With the thread subtly integrating into the Pashmina, giving texture without sacrificing its softness, the finest Sozni work looks as though it has been painted onto the cloth.
The double-sided stitch, in which the design on the front is precisely replicated on the back, is the most distinctive feature of Sozni embroidery and showcases the artist's unparalleled accuracy and expertise. The embroidery, which is frequently done in wool or silk thread, has a kaleidoscope of hues that shimmer as the light touches the minute details of the threads. For the tiniest details, artisans employ just one strand of thread, producing intricate designs that resemble filigree. Concentration and patience are essential for this double-sided work since every stitch must to line up precisely. Historically, Sozni needlework has been used to adorn Pashmina shawls given to nobility and royalty, signifying their social standing and taste in fashion.
Sozni needlework has great cultural value in addition to being aesthetically pleasing. With floral themes signifying fertility, abundance, and regeneration and paisleys, a Persian symbol for immortality, connected to ideas of life and rebirth, the patterns frequently capture the natural beauty of Kashmir's surroundings. The art itself is a cultural legacy that has been passed down through the years, safeguarding the rich artistic legacy of the area. A Sozni-embroidered Pashmina is a celebration of history, art, and the human touch that keeps this centuries-old tradition alive.
Aari Hand Embroidery
The centuries-old Aari hand embroidery method adds texture and depth to Pashmina and other fine textiles with its distinctive chain-stitch design. By looping the thread quickly after one another with a specialized hooked needle, artists make a continuous sequence of tiny, connected stitches that create beautiful motifs. With this technique, intricate patterns that are influenced by Kashmir's rich culture and verdant landscapes can be produced, ranging from intricate geometric shapes to dense floral themes. Aari work is highly valued because of its rich, textured appearance, which contrasts with Pashmina's smooth, velvety surface. The shawl gains a tactile dimension and visual richness from the raised designs, making it a true work of wearable art.
Aari embroidery's boldness and adaptability are what make it so beautiful. While Sozni's work is renowned for its exquisite, painterly details, Aari stands out for its capacity to cover huge surfaces with intricate, eye-catching patterns. The fabric can take on a dazzling, regal appearance when embroidered with metallic threads like zari, which are occasionally used in addition to silk, cotton, or wool threads. Craftsmen can produce consistent, flowing designs that repeat rhythmically throughout the shawl with ease because to the hook needle. Aari art produces a visual rhythm that gives the item movement and vitality, whether it is through the symmetry of paisleys or the elaborate spread of leaves and flowers.
Aari needlework has cultural and historical significance in addition to its aesthetic value. The Mughal era saw the beginning of this skill, which was originally employed to embellish royal clothing with motifs that frequently represented wealth, power, and beauty. This method preserved the artistic heritage of the area and eventually became a distinguishing feature of Kashmiri textiles. Aari embroidery, like other handicrafts, is a labor-intensive procedure that showcases the talent and commitment of the artists, many of whom have been practicing their craft for generations. having an Aari-embroidered Pashmina today signifies accepting a piece of cultural legacy that has endured the test of time and providing timeless beauty and craftsmanship in every stitch, rather than simply having a nice accessory.
Tilla Hand Embroidery
One of the most lavish and majestic types of needlework is Tilla hand embroidery, sometimes referred to as Tilla Dozi, and is typically connected with Kashmiri Pashmina shawls and clothing. In this hobby, metallic threads are used to create elaborate, shimmering designs on cloth. The most common metallic colors used are gold and silver, but copper and other metallic tones can also be utilized. Tilla needlework, which has its origins in the Mughal courts, was originally only worn by royalty and nobility to add a sense of grandeur to their ceremonial gowns and shawls. The Pashmina's velvety, matte texture contrasts with an opulent, radiant impression created by the exquisite way the metallic threads catch the light. The designs, which frequently include geometric shapes, paisleys, and floral motifs, give the fabric a refined, luxurious look, making Tilla-embroidered shawls and clothing opulent.
Tilla needlework is a labor- and time-intensive process that needs the steady hand of an experienced artisan. A fine needle is used to carefully stitch the metallic threads—which might be thick and quite stiff—into the fabric. Because the threads are reflecting, artisanal work must be meticulous to ensure that the patterns are smooth and homogeneous. The distinctive raised texture of Tilla embroidery, which contrasts sharply with the Pashmina foundation to give the item a three-dimensional appearance, distinguishes it from other techniques. Modern Tilla patterns have included finer, more delicate motifs that keep the craft's distinctive elegance while appealing to current tastes. Traditionally, Tilla designs were generally bold and enormous.
Tilla needlework has great cultural value in addition to being aesthetically pleasing; in Kashmir, for example, it is frequently used to adorn bridal gowns and festival clothing. Tilla-embroidered items are prized relics that are handed down through the centuries because of the dazzling metallic threads, which are seen as symbols of festivity, wealth, and elegance. Every Tilla creation is a testament to Kashmir's ongoing cultural legacy as well as a tradition of skillful workmanship. In order to keep this age-old skill valuable and relevant in the current world, designers and craftspeople continue to love embroidery. They accomplish this by fusing classic motifs with contemporary interpretations. More than just a fancy outfit, owning a Tilla-embroidered pashmina connects you to the past and its history, culture, and artistic talent.
Diverse Ways to wear an Embroidered Pashmina Shawl
1. The Side shoulder look
This is the most simple yet elegant look in the Pashmina world. All you have to do is take your exquisite Embroidered Pashmina Shawl and drape it on one of your shoulders. It is to be noted that the front side should be longer and the other back side can be shorter. Therefore, the look goes well with traditional attires, occasional apparel, and even casuals. The look presents the unique dimensions of the Pashmina Shawl.
2. The Shroud of Embroidered Pashmina Shawl
The look is very basic. The glamour of this look goes to the horizons of traditions. Just take your Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your whole upper body. Thus, covering arms, shoulders, and neck. The look keeps you warm in cold seasons. In addition, the look adds glory to the luxurious Embroidered Pashmina Shawl. This presentation goes well with casuals, traditional attires, and wedding apparel. Also, this look caters to all genders.
3. The Head whirl
This look is extraordinarily the most intricate look. All you have to do is take your Embroidered Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your head as well as your shoulders. The whole drape will cover your entire upper body including the head. The look is so traditional and enthralling that it goes well with wedding apparel and to casuals on a cold day. The exquisite look enhances your presence with luxury.
4. The Turban of luxury
The look is exclusive to men but it can be worn by women folk also. The look will give boldness to women with an explicit Pashmina shawl. Just take the Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your head in multiple layers. Afterward, take the end and fold it into one of the layers. The look is traditional as well as classy in its own way. Thus, present your apparel with this marvelous look.
5. The Classy Toss
This look is the most simple look. All you have to do is take the Embroidered Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your neck in such a way that the two loose ends in front are at different lengths. Then, take the longer end and toss it to the opposite shoulder. Here is your go-to look for casuals, formals, and occasional attires. The look amplifies the uniqueness of each Embroidered Pashmina Shawl in its own way. The look confers to both men and women.
6. The Front Drape
All you have to do is take your Pashmina shawl and throw it over your front upper body and let stay on your shoulders. This is the classy look for women. The beauty of this look is that it is simple and it elegantly showcases the supreme Embroidery of your premium Pashmina Shawl.
We, at pashmina.com, confer on the unique styles of Pashmina Art. The diverse collection belongs to the artisans of high skill. The artisans work meticulously with supremely finest Cashmere. Thus, creating distinct accessories in the sphere of Kashmir Valley. Having one of the masterpieces of Pashmina Art will cater to your beauty with a unique style of the finest Cashmere. Thus, the versatile definition of Pashmina Art is seen in each and every masterpiece of accessories.
Shawls are considered an irreplaceable accessory when it comes to the winter season. These are the first and foremost must-haves that people look for as soon as the winter season knocks on the door. Apart from woollen apparel, one must necessarily invest in good quality shawls, as they do not just keep us safe from the chilly winds outdoors, but also bequeath a layer of timeless style and elegance to our winter looks. While all the shawls in the world are beautiful and unique in their own demeanor, it is the Kashmiri shawl that steals the show!
Kashmiri shawls are world-famous for their quality, warmth and magnificent appearance.
Kashmiri shawls have been internationally recognized as one of the most elegant accessories your wardrobes can house. Not only are they warm and super cosy, but an exciting way to aggrandize even the simplest of winter looks. Be it the colours used to craft them, the lightweight experience and the pattern that will steal your heart away, everything about Kashmiri shawls is wonderful.
What are Kashmiri Shawls?
As simply as we can put it, Kashmiri shawls are the ones which are found in Kashmir valley, North India. Owing to their amazing quality they are famous all over the world. There are a number of Kashmiri shawls found in Kashmir and are differentiated on the basis of the material used to prepare them.
Shahtoosh shawls
The most expensive and luxurious shawl found in Kashmir is the Shahtoosh shawl, although it is banned now. Shahtoosh shawls were prepared from the down fibre of the Tibetan Antelope. The antelopes were wild animals who used to gather at some place in their wild habitats to feed themselves or quench their thirst with a newly found water body. Little would they know that these would be traps set by hunters? The antelopes would be killed at this spot and their down fibre used to be collected. This was used to make Shahtoosh shawls. The diameter of Shahtoosh fibre is just 8 to 12 microns, which makes it the finest in the world. Owing to these qualities, Shahtoosh shawls were expensive and only the super well-off, affluent from the community could afford these
Pashmina Shawls
When most people say Kashmiri shawls, they actually mean Pashmina shawls. This is because Shahtoosh shawls are banned and the next luxurious shawls are these.
Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are handcrafted from fine Ladakhi Cashmere, which is acquired from the Capra Hircus goat found in the Himalayas. The goats are domestic, and hence do not need to be hunted for wool. Hence, its herders gently comb off the undercoat that the goat grows in winter. This happens in the moulting season which is March for these goats. The wool, hence acquired, is then processed manually to prepare luxury Pashmina shawls.
Pashmina shawls are lightweight, exceptionally warm, and stylish yet expensive. Owing to these qualities, these are used synonymously with Kashmiri shawls.
Wool Shawls/Raffal Shawl
Wool shawls are the cheapest shawls found in Kashmir. Kashmiri wool is, even though, one of the softest and smooth shawls in the world. But when compared to Pashmina or Shahtoosh, Raffal shawls lose the battle. Wool shawls from Kashmir are used by locals for casual days. These are soft, yet sturdy to feature the thickest thread (Aari) embroidery on their base.
Types of Kashmiri Shawl
Kashmiri shawl is subdivided into a number of categories based on the way they are embellished. How a Kashmiri shawl should be worn largely depends on what type of shawl one is wearing. Hence, to know how to wear a shawl, we need to know what it looks like. Is it plain or embroidered? Is it laced or printed? Different shawls have different styling ways. Let us find out the types of Kashmiri shawls found all across the world.
Solid Shawls
Solid shawls are the ones with no embellishment at all. But since Kashmiri weavers are super skilled and creative, the shawls showcase their weave in an elegant fashion. Whether woven in the twill weave, or basket weave, or the unique and beautiful jacquard weave, solid shawls look terrific, even if there is no embroidery, print or sequin. It is just the waves of the weave pattern and the breathtaking colours that these shawls feature that make solid pieces exquisite.
Embroidered Kashmiri Shawl
The most popular type of Kashmiri shawls are embroidered shawls. Pashmina shawls are embroidered with hands, while wool shawls, being sturdy, can be embroidered with machines. Pashmina shawls feature fine needle embroidery (Sozni Kari), a thicker version of needle embroidery (Paper Mache embroidery) and embroidery in gold and silver (Tilla Dozi). Wool shawls on the other hand can carry the thick and chunky Aari embroidery with ease. Embroidered shawls of Kashmir can be seen in all the markets of the world. Hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls are the most popular in this category, and when donned by men and women, they look absolutely ethereal.
Printed Kashmiri Shawl
Kashmiri shawls are printed in traditional as well as contemporary designs, based on customer judgement. Printed shawls are preferred by women who aren't much comfortable with embroideries, especially younger women. Shawls too have adapted to their choice, and now feature modern prints like animal prints, floral prints, abstract art prints and more. This makes Kashmiri shawls a popular choice among young women, which earlier was not the case.
Patterned Shawl
The chic and stylish patterned shawls are the most in-vogue accessories when it comes to shawls from Kashmir. Patterned shawls showcase stripes, tartan check patterns, houndstooth checks, herringbone patterns, gingham patterns, abstract designs, and more. These shawls are specially chosen by teenagers and younger audiences, as this makes them look stylish and keeps them warm for the day.
Reversible Kashmiri Shawl
An epitome of exquisite craftsmanship, which was considered magical when it was crafted for the first time, is the reversible shawl. The shawl is crafted in a reversible pattern, such that the front and back sides are both wearable and showable. There is no ‘backside’ of the shawl, and both sides are either of two different colours or if embroidered, of mirror image embroidery patterns.
Laced Kashmiri Shawl
A large number of Pashmina shawls from Kashmir feature the super dainty French Chantilly lace which looks feminine and exceptional. Laced Pashmina shawls are the best gifts to give to brides and bridesmaids, as they look exquisite for weddings. The lace hand stitched to Kashmiri shawls can be found around the borders or in the centre even. Laced Kashmiri shawls are usually the Pashmina shawls, as Chantilly laces are fine, net-based laces, and would not suit over thick wool.
Kani shawls of Kashmir
A symbol of true art is the Kani shawl of Kashmir. Kani shawls take 4 - 5 years to complete. These shawls are totally different from other shawls in the way they are made. There is no embroidery or print, and the motifs are created during the weaving process. Colourful Wefts threads in the weaving of Kani shawls come from small wooden bobbins (Kanis), which intersect warp threads to create colourful motifs. This is done according to a design given by a senior supervising designer.
How to wear a Kashmiri Shawl?
On the basis of how the shawl looks, different styles have been invested by designers, stylists and commerce themselves, which makes these shawls a treat to wear. Here is a guide to wearing Kashmiri shawls in the perfect way.
Wearing Solid Kashmiri Shawl
Solid shawls are considered minimal, and hence styling them too has to be minimal. The most common way to wear a solid shawl is by tying it around your neck to cheat a loop. This is possible with Pashmina shawls since they are soft and hence do not look too massive and chunky. Solid Wool shawls are sturdy and can be wrapped around the body for a warmer effect.
Large shawls can be draped around the shoulders and the ends can be tied below the chest. Arms remain covered in this style, and it looks ideal with dresses or western apparel.
Wearing embroidered Shawls
It is believed that embroidered shawls have to be worn in such a way that the embroidery shows. Why won't one flaunt the hand-embroidered exquisite motifs that artisans take years to make?
Usually, hand-embroidered shawls are draped around the shoulders such that the mid portion of the shawl covers the chest and the ends meet at the back. The shawls can also be draped from one shoulder and let it dangle elegantly. Or else, one can place the centre of the shawl over one shoulder and bring the ends to the opposite side to tie them with a brooch.
Printed and Patterned Kashmiri Shawls
Prints and patterns are colourful when it comes to Kashmiri shawls. These can pep up a basic or pastel-shaded dress in an instant. Simply wrap these shawls with dresses or even ethnic apparel, and watch them glow in a jiffy.
Printed Cashmere wraps can be tied around the neck, or placed over the shoulders such that the loose ends meet at the front. This can be tied with a brooch
Patterned shawls are chic and hence suit western apparel more than ethnic. One can wear patterned shawls like mufflers by folding them thrice, and then placing the centre on the back side of the neck, and letting the two loose ends dangle on the front. Patterned shawls look amazing with dresses of the same colour, and infuse freshness in basic winter looks.
Reversible Shawls
Designers believe that these shawls should be worn in such a way that it appears to the onlookers that the shawl is reversible. You can loop the shawl once around your neck such that the two swaying sides are of two different patterns. Or just fold the shawl into less than half lengthwise, and drape it over your shoulders. The two patterns will be evidently visible.
Like embroidery shawls, Laced shawls too, have to be worn in such a way that the ultra-feminine laces show. One can simply place the shawl over one shoulder and let it sway fully. Another way to wear lace shawls is to wear them with a bare-shoulder dress, and drape it to cover the shoulders. This way the lace is clearly visible.
Lace shawls, if having a narrow width, can be tied around the straps of a handbag to give it a quick exhilaration.
Kani shawls
Kani shawls need to be flaunted, and that is what their makers say. Other than wrapping it around your shoulders, if the weather demands, one can simply let it sway from one shoulder. Kani shawls can be worn as dupattas by concealing the chest with its mid portion and letting the loose sides dangle on the back. This will showcase the intricate details of a Kani shawl in the most evident way. Kani shawls have such innate grace that if women fold them and just place them over their forearm, it still catches the attention of their art admirers.
Even though these are the most popular styles of wearing Kashmiri shawls, you can invent yours too. If you feel a particular style looks better than these on you, or with your dress, go on and wear your versatile shawl in your own way. Style doesn't have to be a rule. Style is created by you. We say, be your own stylist, because who knows you the best other than you!
Kashmiri shawls are versatile and will look supreme in any style. Be it the styles where you hide them under layers of clothes just to appear near the neck, or those where only the shawls are visible, Kashmiri shawls are timelessly graceful. The ways it can be worn surprises us and the wearer about its compliance, usability and value. Be it the colours, softness, patterns or warmth, Kashmiri shawls have perhaps beaten all odds to rise to the top. For this reason, these haven't stayed within the borders, and women and men all over the world have always cherished Kashmiri shawls, owing to their unparalleled qualities.
In the North West of the Indian subcontinent lies Kashmir - a valley rich in scenic wonders, charming vales, meadows, magnificent waterfalls, fresh streams and springs that allure everyone. Moreover, the valley is world-famous for its snowy mountain peaks, vast lakes, majestic historical monuments, delicious fruit orchards, and many spectacular marvels. One such spectacular marvel is its handicraft sector, and the crown of this sector is the Kashmiri shawl
Undoubtedly, Kashmiri handicrafts are famous across the globe for being unusual, beautiful and rare. These range from its woollen textiles which are super fine in texture, to Pashmina shawls which artisans handcraft from pure Cashmere. Others include handwoven carpets, exquisite paper mache utilities and decorations, walnut wood works, copper utensils and decoratives and more. All of these are products of exquisite craftsmanship, and showcase the artistic skills that the local artisans possess. The skill of these craftsmen still remains unmatched. Undoubtedly people all over the world cherish the products of their intricate workmanship.
Kashmiri Shawls
Amongst all the above-mentioned handicrafts, Kashmiri shawls are the most treasured and loved ones. People around the world cherish Kashmiri shawls and even try to make copies of the same. But none has succeeded in doing so, as the craftsmanship is unparalleled. Kashmiri shawls allure men and women alike for their finesse, unique making skills, breathtaking embroidery patterns and timelessness. Many other states of India, as well as a large number of foreign countries import these. The sales of these were exponential. The demand for Kashmiri shawls always remains high, as these graceful pieces adapt to every time and trend. Hence, they never go out of style.
All Kashmiri shawls are not the same. There are types of Kashmiri shawls, and each has its own unique looks, style and pattern. For this reason, there are three broad divisions of Kashmiri shawls as far as fabric is concerned; Wool Shawls, Pashmina shawls and Shahtoosh Shawls. These types are different from each other in their making, raw material used, prices, quality, or occasions to wear them. While Wool shawls are everyday wear, Pashmina shawls are for special occasions. Shahtoosh shawls on the other hand are a one-time buy. These are expensive, hard to get and exceptionally delicate.
Woollen Shawls of Kashmir
Woollen shawls of Kashmir use pure wool in their making. Additionally, these are pure merino wool shawls, whose fibre count ranges from 19 to 21 microns in diameter. Fine thread makes Kashmiri wool shawls smooth and soft. Besides, these are warm and sturdy and resist any rough treatment.
Raffal shawls of Kashmir can take any embroidery, owing to the underlying fabric being strong. As such, artisans can also embroider the thick and heavy Aari embroidery (Kasheeda Kari), easily on woollen shawls profusely. Prices of these beautiful pieces depend on their finesse and the type of embroidery done.
Raffal shawls is another term for Kashmiri shawls.. These are 100% pure wool shawls.
The Affordable Luxury of Woollen Shawls
Woollen shawls represent an affordable yet elegant option among the various types of Kashmiri shawls. Made from the wool of local sheep that graze in the lush valleys of Kashmir, these shawls have a unique texture and warmth. This makes them ideal for winter. The wool used in these shawls is known for its resilience and durability. This provides a softer and more versatile fabric compared to other woolen varieties. The weaving process is labor-intensive and typically done on traditional looms, which adds a personal touch to each shawl. Because of their relatively lower cost, woollen shawls offer a luxurious feel without the hefty price tag associated with Pashmina or Shahtoosh. This makes them more accessible to a wider audience.
Craftsmanship: The Art Behind Woollen Shawls
Though woollen shawls may be more affordable, the craftsmanship that goes into making them is anything but simple. Kashmiri artisans employ traditional embroidery techniques such as Tilla, Sozni, and Papier-mâché to embellish these shawls with intricate designs. Tilla embroidery, done with gold or silver thread, adds a regal touch to the shawls. It makes shawls ideal for festive occasions or as statement pieces. Sozni, a fine needlework technique, often creates delicate patterns like flowers, paisleys, and vines. These patterns enhance the beauty of the wool without overpowering its natural texture. Papier-mâché embroidery, inspired by the ancient Kashmiri art form, adds vibrant colors and bold patterns, making each woollen shawl a unique work of art. This attention to detail elevates the woollen shawl from a simple accessory to a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
Cultural Significance: A Staple in Kashmiri Life
Woollen shawls are an integral part of everyday life in Kashmir. With harsh winters and temperatures that dip below freezing, these shawls are more than just fashion items - they are essential for warmth and comfort. Families often pass down these shawls from one generation to the next, making them treasured heirlooms. In rural areas, woollen shawls are a common sight. One can see them wrapped around both men and women as they go about their daily lives. The tradition of wearing woollen shawls has deep roots in Kashmiri culture. Here, they serve both practical and aesthetic purposes. Whether worn casually at home or draped elegantly during a special event, woollen shawls have become symbolic of Kashmiri heritage, showcasing the region’s expertise in textile craftsmanship.
Global Popularity: A Worldwide Trend
In recent years, woollen shawls have gained popularity beyond Kashmir, becoming sought-after fashion items in global markets. As the demand for eco-friendly and ethically made products rises, these shawls have become an attractive option for conscious consumers who value both craftsmanship and affordability. Unlike the more expensive Pashmina or Shahtoosh shawls, woollen shawls offer a way for people to experience authentic Kashmiri artistry without breaking the bank. The appeal of woollen shawls lies in their versatility; one can wear these in both casual and formal settings, making them a versatile addition to any wardrobe.
Fashion designers and retailers around the world are increasingly incorporating woollen shawls into their collections. They have started acknowledging the global demand for this affordable luxury. The intricate embroidery techniques, combined with the natural warmth of the wool, make these shawls a perfect blend of tradition and modernity. From boutique shops in Europe to online platforms catering to a global audience, people consider woollen shawls as one of the more accessible types of Kashmiri shawls. These appeal to those who seek both style and substance. As more people discover the charm and utility of these shawls, their global presence continues to grow, bringing a piece of Kashmiri culture to wardrobes around the world.
Shahtoosh shawls of Kashmir
From the most casual and easy-priced shawls, we come to the most expensive and weighty of them all; the Shahtoosh shawl. The word ‘Shahtoosh’ means ‘king of wool’, and that is exactly what Shahtoosh is. It comes from the Tibetan antelope found over 5000 metres above sea level. Their own fur, heavenly warm and light, allows them to survive the harsh condition of their home - the plateaus. Hunters and nomads follow these migratory animals and kill them for the luxurious fine hair that they grow. Shahtoosh shawls are so graceful and elegant, hence one will hardly find them embroidered. Their solid essence itself is unique and alluring.
The animal cruelty associated with Shahtoosh shawls led to their ban in the year 1975. This was done under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), following a fall in the number of antelopes. This marked the end of the trade of these precious treasure-worthy shawls. Now the only option left to grace formal and special events was the Pashmina.
More about Shahtoosh
The texture of a Shahtoosh shawl is simply exquisite. The wool fibers are incredibly fine - often as thin as 9 to 11 microns—making them much softer and lighter than even the finest Pashmina. This makes Shahtoosh feel like a delicate veil on the skin, yet it retains an exceptional ability to trap warmth, making it ideal for harsh winter climates. It’s no wonder that Shahtoosh shawls were once a symbol of opulence, worn by royalty and the wealthy elite across the globe.
However, the rarity of Shahtoosh goes beyond just its luxurious texture. Tibetan Antelopes do not produce as much wool as other animals, and because they inhabit remote, high-altitude regions, gathering their wool has always been a difficult and laborious process. Each Shahtoosh shawl requires the wool of at least three to five Chirus, adding to its exclusivity and elevating its status as the ultimate luxury item. Unfortunately, this rarity has contributed to a much darker side of Shahtoosh’s history.
Why is Shahtoosh Banned?
Despite its luxurious appeal, Shahtoosh shawls have been the center of a major ethical and environmental controversy. The Tibetan Antelope is an endangered species, and illegal hunting has severely threatened its population. Hunters poach for their wool, by killing the animal - a process that has decimated the population over the years.
As a result of this unsustainable and unethical practice, the production and sale of Shahtoosh shawls have been banned worldwide. In 1975, the Tibetan Antelope was added to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) list, and in 2000, India officially banned the sale and production of Shahtoosh. The ban aimed to protect the species from extinction, as their numbers had plummeted due to poaching. Conservationists estimate that the Chiru population declined by over 90% in the 20th century.
For many, the ban on Shahtoosh raised a crucial ethical question: Is the beauty and luxury of a shawl worth the extinction of a species? The answer has led to a global consensus that the production of Shahtoosh is simply unsustainable and immoral. The once-celebrated shawl is now illegal, and those found selling or buying it face heavy fines and legal consequences.
Impact on Artisans
The ban on Shahtoosh has had a significant impact on the Kashmiri artisans who once specialized in weaving these shawls. For generations, these artisans had honed their skills, mastering the delicate techniques required to spin and weave the fine fibers of Shahtoosh. When authorities enforced the ban, many of these artisans lost their primary source of livelihood, and the rich tradition of Shahtoosh weaving nearly vanished overnight.
This has led many former Shahtoosh artisans to turn to other forms of craftsmanship, with Pashmina shawls becoming a popular alternative. Though a Pashmina shawl does not possess the same rarity as a Shahtoosh shawl, people still regard it as a luxurious fabric, and its production has helped many artisans maintain their craft. Additionally, the growing global demand for ethical and sustainable fashion has made Pashmina an attractive option for both artisans and consumers alike. While the artisan community deeply felt the loss of Shahtoosh weaving, Pashmina provides a path forward. It allows these craftsmen to continue their art while adhering to ethical standards.
Sustainability and Conservation Efforts
In the wake of the Shahtoosh ban, there has been a rising movement toward sustainability and ethical fashion, emphasizing the importance of preserving endangered species and protecting the environment. The global decline in demand for Shahtoosh shawls reflects a growing awareness of the harmful effects of unsustainable fashion practices.
Many consumers are now opting for eco-friendly and cruelty-free alternatives, recognizing that luxury should not come at the cost of environmental degradation or animal extinction. This shift in mindset has fueled interest in materials like Pashmina, which can be sourced ethically without harming the animals involved. Ethical fashion brands are promoting the use of sustainable practices, such as responsible wool sourcing, natural dyes, and fair labor practices—further decreasing the demand for Shahtoosh.
In the face of the Tibetan Antelope’s endangered status, conservation efforts have also ramped up, focusing on protecting the remaining Chiru population and preserving their natural habitats. Organizations around the world are working to curb poaching and promote sustainable livelihoods for communities that once depended on Shahtoosh production
Pashmina shawls of Kashmir
The woollen shawls of Kashmir have an ordinary quality, and there is a ban on Shahtoosh. Hence, this makes Pashmina shawls the only flaunt-worthy shawls the valley possesses
Pashmina shawls are handmade from the down fibre of the Capra hircus goat. The goat grows this fine hair to survive the harsh freezing temperatures in Ladakh. However, the goat loses this hair naturally in its moulting period, which is the Spring season. Herders collect it and process it into luxury shawls.
Raw Cashmere acquired from the goat measures a meagre 12 to 16 microns in diameter. And this makes Pashmina shawls lightweight, soft and fine. Firstly, after its acquisition, artisans clean the Cashmere wool, and then manually process it. This might take days, months or sometimes years together if the type demands. And what comes to existence after the painstaking efforts and exceptionally skilful work methods of the artisans, is luxury Pashmina shawls. It is Pashmina shawls that are synonyms for Kashmiri shawls. When we say Kashmiri shawls, we usually mean Pashmina, as wool shawls aren't that famous and Shahtoosh is under a ban.
Hand embroidery is the only method of embroidery Pashmina shawls have. This is because they never bear the strain of machine embroidery. Artisans use lightweight threads and fine needles to embroider these shawls. These might even take a number of years to complete.
All About Kashmiri Pashmina Shawls
The creation of Pashmina shawls is an art form that came down through generations in Kashmir. Unlike other types of Kashmiri shawls, which may involve machine weaving, authentic Pashmina is hand-spun and hand-woven, maintaining traditional techniques that have existed for centuries.
Artisans carefully comb the wool from the goat’s undercoat in spring, when the goats naturally shed their wool. After collection, the raw wool undergoes a lengthy cleaning process to remove impurities, ensuring that the fabric will be pure and fine. The cleaned wool is then hand-spun into fine threads using a traditional wooden spinning wheel, or “yinder.” Hand-spinning is a painstaking process that requires incredible skill and patience. A single thread of Pashmina is incredibly delicate, and the spinner must ensure it remains even and smooth.
Weaving is another labor-intensive step. Highly skilled artisans weave the spun threads on traditional handlooms. Depending on the complexity of the design and the size of the shawl, the weaving process can take several weeks or even months to complete. The time and dedication required for this process make Pashmina truly unique among types of Kashmiri shawls.
Artisans dye the shawls by hand, using natural dyes derived from plants, minerals, and other organic materials. These natural dyes are eco-friendly and produce rich, vibrant colors that further enhance the elegance of the shawl. After dyeing, they wash and dry the shawls carefully to maintain their softness.
Embellishments and Designs
The true artistry of a Pashmina shawl lies in its intricate designs and embellishments. Kashmir is home to several time-honored embroidery and weaving techniques, each adding a distinctive touch to the shawl. One of the most renowned techniques is Kani work, a type of tapestry weaving that uses small wooden sticks called “kanis” to create intricate patterns. This technique dates back several centuries and is unique to Kashmir. The designs woven using this method can be extremely detailed, often depicting floral patterns, paisley motifs, or elaborate geometric designs. Creating a Kani Pashmina shawl can take several months or even years, depending on the complexity of the design.
Sozni embroidery is another hallmark of Pashmina shawls. Sozni is a delicate and detailed form of needlework that involves embroidering fine patterns along the borders of the shawl. The artisans use thin silk or cotton threads to create floral, paisley, and other intricate designs that showcase their exceptional skill. Some Sozni-embroidered shawls can take months to complete, with artisans working tirelessly to perfect each stitch.
Other popular embellishment techniques include Papier-mâché designs and Tilla work, which involves the use of gold and silver threads to create shimmering designs. These traditional methods of embroidery and embellishment make each Pashmina shawl a unique work of art, further enhancing its value and appeal.
Why Pashmina is Expensive
Pashmina shawls are not just garments; they are masterpieces that represent a blend of tradition, skill, and natural beauty. The high price tag of Pashmina is a reflection of the numerous factors that contribute to its value.
First and foremost, the rarity of the wool plays a significant role in its cost. The Changthangi goats from which Cashmere wool is sourced are found only in the remote regions of Ladakh, and each goat produces a limited amount of wool annually. Collecting the wool is labor-intensive, and since it can only be harvested during a short period each year, supply is naturally limited.
The labor-intensive nature of hand-spinning, weaving, and embroidering Pashmina also adds to its cost. It can take months to produce a single shawl, with each step in the process requiring skilled artisans who have honed their craft over years or even decades. The weaving process alone can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the complexity of the design. Embellishments like Sozni and Kani embroidery further extend the production time, with some shawls taking years to complete.
Additionally, the use of natural dyes and traditional techniques ensures that Pashmina shawls are environmentally friendly and free from synthetic chemicals. These practices may be time-consuming and costly, but they preserve the authenticity and quality of the shawls, making them a sustainable luxury item.
Cultural and Global Impact
Pashmina has transcended its humble origins to become a global symbol of elegance and sophistication. Among the various types of Kashmiri shawls, Pashmina stands out as a luxurious item that has captivated fashion houses, celebrities, and royalty around the world. The timeless appeal of Pashmina is evident in its widespread use on fashion runways, in luxury boutiques, and among discerning individuals who value quality and craftsmanship.
In global fashion, Pashmina shawls have been draped over the shoulders of some of the world’s most influential figures. The fine fabric, delicate patterns, and vibrant colors make Pashmina a versatile accessory, suitable for both casual and formal settings. Its ability to instantly elevate any outfit has made it a staple in high fashion.
However, the global popularity of Pashmina has also led to challenges, such as the proliferation of counterfeit products. Many shawls marketed as Pashmina are made from lower-quality materials like viscose or synthetic blends, which can tarnish the fabric’s reputation. As a result, it has become crucial for consumers to verify the authenticity of their Pashmina purchases by checking for certifications such as the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which ensures that the shawl is made from genuine Cashmere wool from Ladakh.
It is not just now, or a few years back, Pashmina shawls from Kashmir have been there for centuries. It is believed that shawls from Kashmir were famous even in the times of emperor Ashok. This takes us to the 3rd Century BC. However many writers credit the Mughal king Zain-Ul-Abidin as the initiator of the Shawl industry in Kashmir. This is because post the discovery of Cashmere, it was the king who invited craftsmen to Kashmir. These craftsmen trained the locals in processing Cashmere to make Pashmina shawls. It was the king who set up these processing units under his rule.
Nevertheless, Kashmir has already become synonymous with the most amazing shawls in the world. These luxury accessories are a work of immense hard work, tremendous concentration and attention, and extraordinary patience. Thankfully, the artisans are innately blessed with all of them.
We have always been aware of the fact that Pashmina shawls are the most luxurious accessories for women. And we have always believed it owing to the opulent appearance, resplendent feel and snuggly warmth that Pashmina shawls give. But did we know that there are Pashmina shawls for men, which are as wonderful as women’s shawls? Did we know that Men’s Pashmina shawls are as meticulously handcrafted as women’s shawls? Are we aware of the fact that men look as handsome and dapper wearing men's Pashmina shawls, as women look in their own wraps? Today we uncloak the facts about Men's Pashmina shawls, their history, making, and everything about them we need to know.
What is Pashmina?
Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls from Cashmere wool. Art came into existence around the 15th century. It was when Cashmere wool was discovered and processed for the first time in Kashmir. Now it is considered luxury art, affordable, and liked mostly by royals, the affluent, or the patrons of classic art.
A pashmina is an art form that is inherited by today’s artisans from their ancestors. This has been happening for centuries now, and hence this royal art is an heirloom art form. Owing to this, Pashmina shawls are a timeless accessory that aggrandizes the looks of women as well as men; they look like the most distinguished version of themselves.
What makes Pashmina Shawls Special?
Often men ask what is so special about Pashmina. If men's wool shawls are cheaper, why would someone invest large amounts to own a men’s Pashmina shawl? The answer is simple. Pashmina shawls are much more than just shawls. They aren't just warm wrap accessories, but articles full of cultural heritage, artistic skill, and emotions. Here we tell you why Pashmina shawls for men are the ideal accessories to have this winter season. We narrate why are these so special
Making of Men’s Shawls
Men’s Pashmina shawls are handcrafted in the most laborious manner. It is Cashmere wool that is acquired manually, all the way from Ladakh. The wool then goes through a number of processes to result in Pashmina shawls.
Ladakh houses a rare goat species called the Capra Hircus. The goat, locally known as the Cashmere goat or Pashmina goat, grows a fine and warm undercoat. This helps it survive the harsh winter of Ladakh. However, the summers in Ladakh force the goat to moulting. As a result, in the March season, it loses all this fine fleece that protected it in winter. The fleece is collected by its herders and cleaned thoroughly. It is sent to the Kashmir valley for processing.
On its arrival in Kashmir, the fleece is again washed thoroughly and strategically with some special procedures that make it clean, strong, and shiny. After cleaning it properly, artisans start spinning it to transform chunks of fleece into fine yarn. This yarn is then handwoven over traditional looms to produce luxury men's Pashmina shawls. The shawls are plain when out of the loom. These are then embellished with prints, patterns, embroidery, laces, and more adornments.
Production of Cashmere is Rare
One Cashmere goat produces just 150 grams of Cashmere wool per year. The average size of a Men's pashmina shawl is 130*270 cm. Hence it would take wool from 5 to 5 goats to make one men's Pashmina shawl. On top of that, the production of wool on the body of the goat happens just once. It is the moulting period when they lose it naturally. Hence herders have to wait one full year to obtain just 150 - 180 grams of Cashmere from one goat. This shows how exclusive the shawls are.
Cashmere is special and rare owing to its rearing, which is challenging and strenuous. The goat is found at more than 15000 feet above sea level on a plateau called Changthang. This region experiences harsh winters with temperatures descending to -40 degrees C. In these times it is quite problematic to feed and shelter them. But their herders leave no stone unturned in doing so. They live together with their animals and make sure nothing harms them in the winter months. Goats are properly fed and kept safe in warm shelters along with the herders. They, hence, survive the winters with ease, with their fleece undercoat providing them maximum warmth. It is in summers that herders live a hard life with the animals. And owing to this, Pashmina shawls become even more special.
Sustainable Processing of Pashmina Shawls
Sustainability is the buzzword nowadays. And this is a good step towards the concerning issues related to our planet and its people. Owing to this, the world is moving towards products that are crafted in ethical ways. This includes bringing into existence the products which have been made without the use of machines to protect the environment from pollution. Moreover, crafting products without being cruel to animals. And finally, being fair and empathetic to the people.
Fortunately, Men's Pashmina shawls are sustainable as far as their making is concerned. From the acquisition to the completion, Pashmina shawls for men are ethically made. The first step is procuring wool from the goat, and we are delighted to announce that Cashmere herders carry out this activity without harming the animal. The goat loses most of the fleece during its moulting period. Some of the portions of the fleece left on its body are removed by herders in the peak summer season when it makes the goat uneasy. As the goat tries rubbing itself against coarser surfaces, the herders realize its agony and bring in specialist combs and tools. The combs are used to gently remove the hairs from the undercoat of the goat, and this sets the goat free and relaxed.
Processing
The fleece is collected, manually cleaned, and manually processed. No use of machines is required in the processing of Cashmere, as it is super fine, and might tear with the strain of the machine. The artisans who process the wool are fairly paid and they work from their homes, as every process is manually carried out. This makes men’s Pashmina shawls sustainable accessories, ideal for conscious shoppers.
(Please note that all Pashmina shawls are not manually crafted, and all artisans do not receive their deserved wages. Hence we should always shop from responsible vendors and authentic traders who actually make sustainable Pashmina shawls)
The Finesse of Men’s Shawls
Pashmina shawls are delicate, lightweight, and gossamery fine. The spun yarn is so fine that an ordinary eye finds it difficult to look at, at the first glance. It is only the super skilled and experienced hands of the womenfolk of Kashmir, who spin such fine yarn with ease. Spun yarn is just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. This makes it 4-5 times finer than human hair.
Men's Pashmina Shawls are lightweight. A full-length shawl is just over 500 grams, which makes it super light and easy to carry, unlike thick wool shawls commonly worn in winter. Pashmina is breathable and hence keeps one warm without making it clammy. Even with such finesse and delicate texture, Pashmina shawls are 8 times warmer than sheep wool shawls, but many times lighter than them. This quality makes Pashmina shawls one of the most treasured accessories of all time.
Pashmina Shawls are Timeless
It is their timelessness and an ageless apparent demeanour that makes Pashmina shawls loved by men of all ages and attitudes. These opulent accessories have been worn by the Mughal kings and European Royals since the 18th century, but yet these have managed not to lose a tad in their evergreen grace and grandeur. A shawl from the 18th century would still look good, and in fact, acquire an heirloom look today.
Owing to changes in fashions, and preferences of men, Pashmina shawls have adapted to the latest trends, eminent on runways and celebrity wardrobes. As such, Pashmina shawls aren't just embroidered and Kani woven like the olden days but printed, striped, chequered, abstract patterned, laced, Swarovski studded, or ombre dyed. As a result, even teenage boys love to wear them for formal occasions, as the men in their families do.
Popular Pashmina Shawls
When the sales of Pashmina shawls started, plain, embroidered and Kani woven shawls were available. Later reversible shawls too gained impetus, but mostly embroidered and Kani shawls were invested in by patrons. Kani shawls were the most popular owing to their use by Empress Josphine, who owned hundreds of them.
Now, since times changed, and men did not want to carry heavily patterned shawls with them, Pashmina art adapted to a simpler version. As such, plain shawls, patterned Pashmina shawls, light embroidery shawls, reversible shawls, and more came into existence. Now not just men, but boys could afford and wear these shawls, which would look immensely graceful for formal occasions.
Following are the main types of Men's Pashmina shawls one can find today:
Solid Men's Shawls
When a shawl comes out of the handloom, it is plain. There is just the rhythmic harmony of warps and wefts visible in the shawl, and it is just the weave pattern that makes it elegant, even if plain. Plain Pashmina shawls look perfect when worn for casual days, office meetings, formal occasions, and similar events. Since these are the easiest to carry, they are the first choice of younger men or boys when it comes to wearing Pashmina shawls.
Patterned Pashmina Shawls
After solids, it is the patterned Pashmina shawls that come next, with minimal design. These shawls, after coming out of the handlooms, go to specialists who pattern them with conventional as well as contemporary designs. As such, magnificent colour patterns and combinations are seen in these shawls which are, again, ideal for formal and casual occasions, depending on the colour combination used.
Reversible Shawls for Men
Reversible Shawls have a great history and have been known for centuries now. This pattern was considered magical when it came into existence, and both sides of the shawl were wearable. The shawl had no back side and front side, but both sides were so elegant and unique, that one felt he owned two marvellous pieces, instead of one.
Embroidered Pashmina Shawls
Perhaps the most exquisite of them all was the hand-embroidered shawl which looked as luxurious as it felt. These shawls come out of the loom and are sent to specialist artisans, who specialize in several embroidery types. The most popular embroidery done on Pashmina shawls is Sozni Kari (fine thread embroidery), where silk threads are used to create motifs on the shawls. The shawl looks absolutely breathtaking and is hence reserved for special occasions. Men wear embroidered shawls to weddings and grand events or give them as gifts to those who already have everything.
Men's Kani Shawl
A living piece of art, Kani shawls have often been called the creme of the crop when it comes to Pashmina shawls. This is owing to their making, as motifs spread on the shawls are not embroidered or painted, but handwoven in the weft threads. Ani shawls are handmade like carpets, where coloured wefts threads are inserted into plain warp threads, and this combination results in the making of breathtakingly beautiful Kani shawls, which men crave. It was a Kani shawl that was loved by Emperor Napoleon during his return from Egypt (which is gifted to his wife), and it became the hottest trend in Europe back then. Since then, Kani shawls are the most cherished by both men and women, for their colour combinations, royal appearance, and the pleasant and satisfying warmth they provide.
Celebrities all over the world have set the trend of wearing large-size Cashmere wraps and Pashmina shawls either for casual occasions or formal events. Nick Jonas wore a Pashmina shawl at his wedding and Brad Pitt is often spotted wearing Cashmere scarves on formal trips. Nevertheless, one should invest in pure and authentic handmade Pashmina shawls, and not get carried away by appearances only. The warmth and timeless Pashmina shawls are only the ones that are handcrafted by artisans, and the ones made by machines. The handcrafted treasures will stay with you for a lifetime, and look even more vintage with age.
The Pashmina Art resembles a luxurious being. The traditional, as well as contemporary styles of Pashmina, cater to the luxury of fashion. The new styles developed with the advent of western fashion. One of the excellent designs of Pashmina Art is the Reversible Pashmina Shawl. It is also called "do-rukha". The unique feature of the design is the wonderful weave. The delicate weave prefers the eloquent style with elegance. The excellent style prefers the horizon of Kashmir Valley for its beautification.
The Crafting of Reversible Pashmina Shawl
1. The finest Cashmere Wool
The Changthanghi mountains in the region of Ladakh are at a high altitude. The temperature goes to minus 20°C in winter. A rare breed of goats called the Changra goats dwells in this harsh weather on the land. The goats develop thick wool for protection against cold. Also, the goats are called Cashmere Goats. Moreover, these goats shed off their wool in summer to feel the fresh air. The wool is also manually combed out by the herders of the Changpa tribe. Thus, fine wool is called Cashmere wool. The tufts of Cashmere wool are packed to send to the valley of Kashmir.
2. The process of Pashmina Art
As soon as the Cashmere wool reaches the valley of Kashmir, the process of Pashmina Art commences. The first step is the cleaning of thick and fine Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool is cleaned meticulously with patience to get all the grime and dust out. Afterward, the Cashmere wool is soaked and dried in natural sunshine. Thus, the next step starts when the Cashmere wool is transferred to the local households for the process of Spinning. Spinning is the process of meticulously translating Cashmere wool to Cashmere yarn. It is mainly done by the women artisans of the valley.
Then, the womenfolk of the Valley spin the Cashmere wool to Cashmere yarn. Also, the process of Spinning is also called "phamb katun" in the local language. The Cashmere (phamb) and the process of spinning (katun) are harmonious craftings. The women spun the Cashmere wool on the wooden wheel called yinder in the local language. Thus, fine Cashmere is produced.
The next step is the process of Weaving. Weaving is the translation of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The meticulous weaving starts in the local workshops/karkhanas on the handlooms. The handlooms are worked upon by highly skilled artisans. Thus, by the harmonious warps and wefts, the premium quality Cashmere fabric is woven.
A Reversible Pashmina Shawl
There are several styles like Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls. Also, there are diverse designs in these styles. One of the designs is the Reversible Pashmina Shawls. The Reversible Pashmina Shawls are made of handloom with a precise weave. The warps and wefts are woven in such a manner that the design imbibes elegance on both surfaces of the Pashmina Shawl. Thus, it's called the Reversible Pashmina Shawl. It is also called "do-rukha" which means "two faces".
The elegance and admiration of the Reversible Pashmina Shawl are explicit. The unique presentation of the Reversible Pashmina Shawl supplicates the luxurious glory of its kind. Reversible Pashmina Shawls explore the weave on the handloom in a definite style. The versatile designs and motifs over the Cashmere base create a sense of traditional accessory. Therefore, these Pashmina Shawls will make you feel loved in the most glamorous way. Moreover, the exquisite and explicit virtues of Pashmina Art define the Reversible Pashmina in glorified ways.
Ways to wear a Reversible Pashmina Shawl
We have listed 5 ways to wear the Reversible Pashmina Shawls in the most opulent ways.
1. The Basic Toss
The look is very simple yet elegant. The basic look of toss provides warmth and style at the same time. All you have to do is take the Reversible Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your neck. It is done in such a way that the two front ends of the Shawl are at different lengths. Now take the longer end and toss it to the opposite shoulder. This is your go-to complete the look. You can wear this look on any occasion. Thus, the look enhances your presence and profuses the luxury in your way.
2. The Twirl drape
The drape is easy to profuse into. The twirl drape is elegantly stylish in the fashion world. All you have to do is take the Reversible Pashmina Shawl and drape it wide open around your upper body. Then, let it fall on your shoulders to profuse the elegance on every side. Being a Reversible Pashmina Shawl, you can do the same look twice with the two faces of one Reversible Shawl. Therefore, luxury imbibes the significance of glory and scatters it on your attire. It caters to you all your outfits. Thus, making your presence as special as you are.
3. The Shoulder drape
The Shoulder drape belongs to the class premium style. All you have to do is take the Reversible Pashmina Shawl and drape it on one shoulder and let it hang. The look can be complemented by wearing a brooch. The elegance and gleam of the look profoundly confer to all the fashion world. It goes well with every attire, especially traditional outfits. Thus, the supreme collection of Reversible Pashmina Shawls confers unique ways of presenting.
4. The Two side drape
The versatile Reversible Pashmina Shawls are worn in each season. The special look of two side drapes is very elegant in appearance. All you have to do is take the Reversible Pashmina Shawl and drape it around your neck. It is to be done in such a way that the two ends of the Shawl are at the same lengths. Thus, the look is complete. You can also complement the look by wearing a belt around your waist and tucking it in the front. In addition, the bold, stylish look will profoundly imbibe all the luxury and scatter it around your presence.
5. The Cover drape
The traditional way of wearing a Shawl is to wrap it around your upper body. This look confers to traditional wrapping. Take your Reversible Pashmina Shawl and wrap it around your upper body. This look provides adequate warmth. In addition, the look is stylish and it signifies the designs and patterns of the Reversible Pashmina Shawl. Therefore, elegance filled with beatitude and glamour is on your way to wearing one of these looks.
Reversible Pashmina Shawl - A Regal Collection of Pashmina Art
We, at pashmina.com profoundly craft the finest Cashmere of Ladakh. Thus, creating a versatile collection of Pashmina Art. We celebrate the revival by supporting the highly skilled artisans of the Valley. Thus, the supremely crafted premium collection caters to all genders. Thus, luxury and elegance can be felt in each and every masterpiece of Pashmina Art on our online platform. Therefore, having one of the Pashmina Art masterpieces will enhance your style and luxurious fashion sense in glorious ways.
While Pashmina shawls sell in all parts of the world, it is the GI Pashmina shawls of Kashmir that are the most sought after. What makes these exquisite pieces so powerful and cherished, we will come to know.
In the heart of Srinagar is the downtown area, and in the heart of the downtown area is a two-room house partially made of mud. Rubeena lives here with her two daughters, one 22 years old and the other one just 13. Her husband is a mason and keeps traveling all day for work at different places. Rubeena is one of the finest Cashmere yarn spinners in the downtown area. She has been associated with this art for two decades now.
For Rubeena, it is just hand-spinning the finest wool in the world that brings her finances. She was taught by her mother to spin the wool when she was just 10. Later, when she got married, she purchased a spinning wheel (Yinder) to take it along. Thereafter, she continued to spin Cashmere to supplement her husband’s income, and together they managed a decent functioning of their household.
There were hundreds of women like Rubeena, who managed everyday expenses with the help of spinning the Yinder. But with the introduction of machines, which spun Cashmere faster than the manual process, the women lost their livelihood and the independence to earn. Many opted for other jobs and those who could find alternatives lived a life of misery. Machines took away their sustenance, and this was even more severe for the families where the spinning wheel was the only source of income.
Hand Spinning Cashmere wool
As soon as Cashmere wool comes from Ladakh, it is full of dirt and dust. It has been newly combed out of the undercoat of the goat producing it and hence is in the shape of lumps and chunks. Hence, the wool needs a thorough cleaning and spinning. Spinning has been done for centuries by the local womenfolk of Kashmir valley, who come from the most underprivileged sections of the community. The women are mostly widowed, divorced, or live an impoverished life.
When Cashmere was discovered by Shah E Hamdan, a Persian traveler, it was processed to produce a pair of socks for the king. King Zain ul Abideen was highly impressed by the quality of the socks and hence started processing units for the newly discovered wool. To train the locals in the art of spinning, he invited Persian craftsmen who taught the locals a number of crafts, and among them was shawl making. This included spinners, weavers, and embroidery artisans.
Women Artisans
While men took up weaving and embroidery, women took spinning as their main responsibility in the making of Kashmiri shawls. This was because women could do their household chores along with spinning the fine wool. Weaving needed large rooms where handlooms could be placed, and embroidery needed much time. Hence it was spinning which seemed the most suitable job for them. They did the same as a side job, from the comforts of their home.
In a city with scarce livelihood opportunities, spinning was the best source of income that women could have back in the 90s. Women earned extra money from this, even though all of it would be spent on the general finances of the house or children. Women would hardly spend on themselves, as a luxurious life had fat chances for this section of society.
Process of Spinning Cashmere
Spinning fine Cashmere for Ladakh is easier said than done. The process takes years of practice and expertise to take place perfectly. Women artisans need to have patience, high skill, and the utmost passion for their work to make it happen.
There are a number of by-processes in the process of spinning fine Ladakhi Cashmere. Let us have a look at that one by one:
Pre Spinning Processes
Before spinning the wool, there are a number of practices that need to be undertaken. These include the harvesting, sorting, combing, and gluing of the wool, freshly acquired from Ladakh.
Harvesting Cashmere from the Goat
Cashmere wool is harvested from the Cashmere goat in the Spring season, which happens to be the moulting season for the goat. During this time the goat naturally sheds most of this wool, till late May from starting March. This process is carried out with the help of specialized combs, which gently pull the hair out, without hurting the animal. The hair thus collected, is full of outer coarse fibre, which needs to be dehaired.
Manual Deharing/Sorting
Sorting the Cashmere means separating fine pure Cashmere threads from the coarser guard hair that it is mixed with. This process is carried out by the women, who do it manually.
Combing/Cleaning the fibres
Raw Cashmere contains a large number of impurities with it. Vegetable wastes, dust, dirt, and other sorts of contaminations need to be separated from the fine wool. Combing of the hair is done by a sort of stabbing the wool into an upright comb. This way the chunks of the wool are straightened in the teeth of this comb by moving each tuft through it manually. This process is repeated 3 to 4 times till the desired cleanliness is achieved.
Mixing with Rice
The raw fibre is extremely delicate. To strengthen it as well as to add a natural shine to the fibres, it is placed in a container. The container is then filled with pounded/powdered rice and left for 2 or 3 days. This process is called gluing, and it helps provide extra strength and softness to the fibre. Now the fibre is again combed to get rid of the rice particles, and it looks perfect for the spinning process.
Spinning Processes
The spinning of raw Cashmere means converting the untwisted strand of fibres into the required yarn count and making it perfect for more processing. The women of Kashmir spin Cashmere strands over a wooden spinning wheel called Yinder locally. The tufts of Cashmere are held between the thumb, index finger, and middle finger of the left hand. Simultaneously the right hand is used to spin the wheel in perfect harmony with the (upward and downward) actions of the left hand. This process is utmostly skillful and needs immense practice to perfect.
The yarn, hence produced, is wound around a grass straw which is locally called phumblet. This yarn is doubled on a hand reeler. This double yarn is again mounted over the charkha, to twist the double yarn. These are then made into hanks over a wooden reeler called yarandul, and finally sent to weavers. Weavers have their own few processes to carry out before weaving this yarn.
The eminency of handspun Cashmere
It takes approximately a month to hand spin 110 grams of Cashmere yarn on a traditional wheel while working 7 hours a day with full efficiency. Hence spinning the wheel is not just a matter of skill and experience, but of love, patience, and passion for the work. Women, who hand spun Cashmere yarn in the days forgone, loved this work. Even during the household chores, they felt something was missing, and hence completed the chores as quickly as possible. They loved to be associated with this skill, and the spinning wheel was their best company with which they spent a good time.
Spinning Pashmina was more or less a painstaking process. The spun yarn, being just 12 to 16 microns in diameter, was difficult to manage. The superfine yarn would be difficult to differentiate in the surroundings, and it took the powerful noticing power of the women themselves to spin this delicate thread, and then process it further to make it ready for weaving.
The Evils of Power Loom
In the 1990s, the power loom disrupted the normal life of the artisans who handcrafted Pashmina shawls. Power looms could weave shawls in just a few minutes, whereas artisans would weave them in a few days. Hence, a large audience of shawls moved to power loom shawls, which were not made from pure Cashmere. The purest Cashmere threads are delicate, and cannot bear the strain of a machine. Hence, pure Cashmere would be mixed with sheep wool, nylon, or silk threads to produce fake Pashmina shawls. This bastardized the true quality of Cashmere, and the entire art of Pashmina shawl making almost reached a dead end.
The evils of the power loom spread to the entire chain of its makers. Be it, weavers, embroidery artisans, or spinners, every artisan associated was left with a deep shock. Everyone lost their jobs, and some switched to other employment alternatives. While men could be labourers or helpers in offices, it was the spinners - the womenfolk of the valley - whose incomes ceased entirely. The households became financially unstable, and this brought a bitter end to the hand-spinning of Cashmere.
GI Pashmina Shawls and the Revival of Women Artisans
To preserve this heritage art from unfortunate extinction, the government of India (Under WTO) established a quality mark for genuine Pashmina. This is called the GI stamp and is found anywhere on an original Pashmina shawl. GI Pashmina shawls are handspun by women artisans, handwoven, and crafted from the purest and finest threads of Ladakhi Cashmere.
What is GI?
A geographical Indication (GI) is a sign or a stamp, used on several unique products. It corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin. The use of a Geographical Indication (GI Stamp), hence, acts as a certification that the product possesses certain rare features, which are not found elsewhere. It also certifies that the product is made according to traditional methods, and enjoys a certain reputation due to its geographical origin.
For the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl, therefore, a GI mark means that it is made from the purest Cashmere which is
Handspun by women artisans of the valley using the wooden spinning wheel
Handwoven over traditional handloom using age old techniques
The fibre of Cashmere used is just 12 to 16 microns in diameter.
The stamp is patented and one can see 100% Genuine and Registered Pashmina on the mark when placing the shawl under UV light. The registration number on the stamp can be tracked online.
GI Pashmina and Women Empowerment
With the reintroduction of pure, handmade Pashmina shawls, the spinning processes were revived. Hence, women, who had long quit the practice started doing it again. And it was the introduction of GI Pashmina shawls that assisted in women's empowerment once again after many decades. Women again retrieved their long-forgotten charkhas from where they had buried them. The processes started again, and households were again busy with the hustle and bustle of women spinning yarn. Finances started pouring in, and women started supporting their families once again.
The patrons of Pashmina shawls, who had long left every hope of owning a pure Kashmiri Pashmina shawl, were thrilled to know about GI Pashmina shawls. Instantly the sales picked and orders came from across the globe. The patrons who knew the value of a handmade Pashmina couldn't stop themselves but started a quest for the same. The new GI Pashmina shawls aren't just plain ones, but hand embroidered in every pattern the admirers look for. The shawls are super light, fine, and breathtakingly graceful.
The scenario today is different. While women, besides enjoying the spinning of Pashmina shawls, earned enough in the past, the present isn't much favourable. Often women complain that the wages they got two decades back are still the same today, which fetches absolutely nothing. The wages aren't decent enough to save their own selves for a rainy day, let alone support their family. Hence taking care of these exceptionally skilled and experienced women falls upon us, the admirers of this heritage art. Abandoning the shawls which claim to be Pashmina, but aren’t even there at all, is the first step to be taken to support women artisans of the valley. Even Though, using the machine for spinning Pashmina strips any product of being the original art form, there are sellers selling them in the name of the original Pashmina.
Checking for the GI tag, and asking the sellers for certification reports are some of the ways one can only invest in the original Pashmina. Purchasing GI Pashmina shawls is the best way to promote sustainable fashion. These shawls empower women artisans, and that is the main reason why we offer assortments of GI shawls separately. You can check these masterpieces here.
It is the winter season again, and the first thing to do is find warm clothing and accessories. We have always heard stories about our mother’s and grandmother’s heirloom shawls which they passed down for generations. Shawls have always been special to our parents and grandparents, and on the arrival of winter, they say that they celebrated the season, and wore their shawls delightfully. If you wonder why to know that Kashmiri shawls are actually something to celebrate!
Kashmiri shawls are timeless accessories and a companion of a lifetime for the owner. These have survived the test of time owing to the meticulous techniques that are put into practice during their making. And while there are myriads of shawl designs and patterns, it is a Kashmiri shawl that stands out and whose beauty never fades away.
The basic purpose of a shawl is to keep you warm. Kashmiri shawls, handcrafted out of Cashmere, are 8 times warmer than sheep wool shawls. This property makes them the most preferred shawls amongst their counterparts. After all, it is warmth and comfort that one prefers over everything when it comes to colder seasons.
What is a Kashmiri Shawl?
Originating from the lush valleys of Kashmir, a Kashmiri shawl is a representation of unmatched artistry. Traditionally fashioned from the finest Pashmina or Cashmere wool, hand-spun by expert artisans, this shawl is revered for its luscious feel and delicate workmanship. The source material is the undercoat of Changthangi goats, which are indigenous to Ladakh's high altitudes. Shawls made from these fibers—which are prized for their extraordinary warmth and softness—are both delicate and long-lasting thanks to the careful weaving process. Kashmiri shawls are renowned for its exquisite hand stitching, which is generally adorned with natural motif designs such as florals, vines, and paisleys, giving each piece an individual charm.
The centuries-old craft of weaving and embroidering Kashmiri shawls has been handed down through the generations. The care and attention to detail required to create these works of art are reflected in techniques like the Kani weave, which is performed on wooden looms using small sticks, or the Sozni embroidery, in which artists sew elaborate designs into the fabric. The intricate artistry that turns the delicate Cashmere threads into wearable art is displayed in each shawl, which takes months or even years to finish. Due to their elegance and cultural significance, these shawls are still highly prized by royalty and nobility, as they were in the past. They are also well recognized today.
A Kashmiri shawl symbolizes the region's rich cultural legacy in addition to its aesthetic and tactile appeal. Since these shawls have been an essential part of Kashmiri culture for generations, owning one is like clutching a piece of history. They tell tales of tradition, artistry, and resiliency and are much more than simply opulent clothing. The Kashmiri shawl is still a classic piece of clothing today, valued for its beauty, coziness, and heritage while also representing the richness of its past and its significance in the contemporary world.
Why are Kashmiri shawls the best?
There are not just one or two reasons why one should invest in Kashmiri shawls. In fact, one runs out of reasons to buy Kashmiri shawls. Here we have listed just five of them, which seem to be the most important ones.
Kashmiri shawls are warmer
Kashmiri shawls are 8 times warmer than ordinary sheep wool shawls. This is because these are made from fine Cashmere that is found in Ladakh. A rare Ladakhi goat grows Cashmere as an undercoat over its body to survive a severe temperature of -40 degrees C. This nature’s defense bestowed upon the goat is a soft, fine, and exceptionally warm fleece that keeps it comfortable during winter. In the moulting period, its herders gently comb out this fleece and free the goat from its warmth, which is discomforting in summer. The fleece is processed - spun and woven - and this gives birth to Kashmiri shawls. Kashmiri shawls are also called Pashmina shawls, as the fleece of the goat is locally called Pashm.
Kashmiri Shawls are lightweight
The shawls made from Cashmere are exceptionally lightweight. A large-sized shawl (100*200 cms) weighs just around 450 grams. Being lightweight makes it more cherished, as thick and heavy winter layers make one feel burdened and uneasy.
A lightweight wrap like a Kashmiri shawl is easy to carry when you are traveling. It can be folded and stored in a handbag if the weather conditions demand it. Also, being lightweight makes it to be patterned into any style. One can fold it into a strip, and wrap it around the neck as a substitute for a scarf.
The Soft and Smooth Shawls
Kashmiri shawls are immensely soft and smooth to the touch. No one has ever complained of itching or allergy caused by Kashmiri shawls (except the super sensitive ones who get allergies from all kinds of natural fabrics). The fabric is super fluffy to touch and feel, owing to the fineness of Cashmere, and the traditional methods used to manufacture these. This is the experience one can only get with a handmade product.
Timeless and Lifelong Companions
The timelessness of Kashmiri shawls needs no narrative. The shawls made from the purest threads of Cashmere wool are a lifetime companion, and stay beautiful for over 30 years. With age, the shawls acquire an heirloom look and look even more vintage than a freshly handcrafted one. For this reason, these can be passed from one generation to the other.
These luxury Shawls are handmade
Kashmiri shawls need no mechanical assistance. It is just the utmost skill and creative craftsmanship of the artisans which makes these shawls immensely graceful and rare. Being handmade makes them special and hence one can gift these to their most beloved.
How are Kashmiri Shawls crafted?
Acquiring fine Rooted in the rough terrain of Ladakh, the production of Ladakhi Cashmere is a painstaking and labor-intensive procedure. Commencing the voyage are the endangered Changthangi goats, which flourish in the harsh, frigid climate of the Himalayan peaks at elevations over 14,000 feet. These goats grow pashm, the incredibly soft undercoat that gives Ladakhi Cashmere its name, in order to withstand the harsh winters. Herders gather this exquisite downy fleece from the goats by hand in the early spring, taking care not to hurt the animals. Ladakhi Cashmere is among the best in the world because of the fibers' exceptional softness, warmth, and light weight.
The raw wool is thoroughly sorted once it is obtained in order to separate the finer from coarser fibers. Ladakhi Cashmere feels opulent since only fibers with a diameter of less than 16 microns are regarded as the finest. After that, the inherent softness and strength of these delicate fibers are preserved by hand spinning and cleaning. Ladakhi Cashmere is frequently woven into shawls, scarves, and other opulent clothing items, all of which showcase the material's uniqueness and purity.
Sustainable and moral business practices are closely linked to the acquisition of Ladakhi Cashmere. This age-old practice has been refined over centuries by the goats' nomadic herders, who keep a respectful balance with the natural world. The restricted supply of Ladakhi Cashmere, in contrast to mass-produced wool, guarantees that every item stays unique and genuine, reflecting the rough beauty of the area as well as the high-altitude workmanship.
5 Kashmiri shawls to pick this winter
With so much said about the Kashmiri shawls, let us see what type of shawls are the best to buy for the winter season.
Kani Jamawar Shawls
Kani shawls are one of the most elaborate, exquisite, and elegant shawls in Kashmir. These are made from fine Ladakhi Cashmere wool, which is handspun into fine yarn. The yarn is then taken as a warp, and the wefts are colourful threads that intersect with the warp threads during weaving. Thus, motifs in brilliant shades are created over the base, and the shawl takes 3 to 4 years to complete. Jamawar refers to a pattern where the shawls are full of embellishments.
Famous for their elaborate designs and historical significance, Kani Jamawar shawls are exquisite examples of Kashmiri weaving. The hamlet of Kanihama is the birthplace of the Kani weaving technique, which entails delicately weaving colorful patterns into the cloth using tiny wooden sticks, or "kanis," in place of conventional shuttles. Inspired by the verdant landscapes of Kashmir, these shawls, which are generally made from the finest Pashmina or Cashmere wool, contain intricate paisley and floral motifs. Because of the intricate designs and high level of expertise needed to weave them, each Kani Jamawar shawl is a work of patience and talent that can take months or even years to complete.
Kani Jamawar shawls were once highly prized by nobles and kings, and they still have an air of exclusivity and luxury about them now. The traditional shawls with exquisite motifs that resemble tapestries and were intended for royal courts are referred to as "Jamawar." A Kani Jamawar shawl is akin to wrapping oneself in a piece of history, with each strand narrating a tale of skill, tradition, and classic style. These shawls are not only fashionable pieces but also priceless pieces of art due to their brilliant patterns, superb weaving, and plush texture.
Embroidered Jamawar Shawls
Kashmiri shawls made from Cashmere wool can be hand embroidered profusely. Jamawar shawls that host hand embroidery motifs all over the base are called embroidered jamawar shawls. These shawls host the embroidery in such a way that the base of the shawl is barely visible. These shawls are ideal for formal occasions, weddings, or as gifts to your loved ones.
The height of luxury is achieved by hand-weaved fabric richness combined with exquisite embroidery on Jamawar shawls, which raises the level of creativity to unprecedented levels. Traditionally made from the finest wool, either Pashmina or Cashmere, these shawls have intricate motifs that are expertly embroidered by needleworkers. Beautifully stitched with fine threads of silk, zari, or even gold and silver, the motifs, which are frequently inspired by nature, include flower patterns, paisleys, and vine-like scrolls.
The embroidery adds texture and depth to the shawl, transforming it into a canvas of vibrant colors and intricate patterns. Historically favored by royalty, these shawls have a timeless appeal, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern elegance. Whether draped over the shoulders or used as a statement piece, an embroidered Jamawar shawl brings an air of regal sophistication to any ensemble. Beyond fashion, these shawls are a symbol of cultural heritage, embodying the skill, patience, and creativity of the artisans who pour their soul into every stitch.
Reversible Pashmina shawls
A magically handcrafted shawl is the reversible Pashmina shawl from Kashmir. The shawl is handwoven in such a way that it has no backside. Both sides of the shawl are equally beautiful and hence the shawl can be worn from both sides. Reversible shawls can be either two different colours on two sides or anembroidered reversible shawl where the opposite side is a mirror image of the front side. These are known as Aksi Do Rukha shawls and are the most expensive category in hand-embroidered shawls.
Reversible Pashmina shawls, which combine luxury and versatility in one item, are a marvel of textile craftsmanship. These exquisite Cashmere wool shawls, which feature two unique designs on either side, enable the wearer to alternate between patterns and colors to fit various moods or situations. These shawls are reversible, which doubles their elegance. Each side is expertly created to be just as beautiful as the other. These shawls, with their exquisite paisleys, floral designs, or geometric patterns, are a flexible addition to any outfit since they allow for an easy transition between various styles.
The intricacy of its construction is what sets reversible Pashmina shawls out from the ordinary. By employing double-sided weaving techniques, talented weavers may guarantee that the shawl's pattern is consistent on both sides without sacrificing any detail or quality. Time, accuracy, and superb craftsmanship are required for this procedure to produce a shawl that is sumptuous, light, and offers two lovely possibilities in one. Reversible Pashmina shawls are not only useful, but also classic, representing the refinement and grace for which Pashmina has been known for generations.
Modern Design Pashmina Shawls
Kashmiri shawls have adapted to the modern world and its trends. Hence, not just traditionally embroidered shawls, but Kashmiri shawls have prints and patterns. Striped Pashmina shawls, shibori Pashmina shawls, chequered patterns, houndstooth shawls, and many more fresh trends can be seen featuring on Kashmiri shawls now.
The time-tested technique of Kashmiri handicraft is given a modern, innovative twist by pashmina shawls. These wraps have bright, inventive designs that appeal to modern fashion sensibilities, yet they still have the opulent warmth and softness of traditional Pashmina. The sleek contemporary appeal is provided by the weaving or printing of geometric patterns, abstract motifs, and minimalist aesthetics onto the cloth. These wraps are a flexible piece of clothing that go well with both traditional and modern outfits since they so skillfully combine the old and the new. For the fashion-forward person who appreciates timeless quality, the end result is a piece that seems both avant-garde and classic.
Pashmina shawls' rich history is not compromised when contemporary design elements are added; on the contrary, the shawl's importance in the fast-paced world of fashion today is increased. By experimenting with bold color schemes, asymmetrical patterns, and digital printing, Shibori Pashmina, designers enable the age-old Pashmina craft to develop while adhering to its historical traditions. These shawls give fashionistas a means to embrace heritage while expressing their uniqueness, serving as both a mark of luxury and a reflection of modern tastes. Modern Pashmina shawls are the ideal fusion of traditional workmanship and innovative design, whether they are worn casually or as a statement item.
As evergreen and ageless as they can be, solid Kashmiri shawls are no less graceful than any of them. With different weave types, which embellish the plain base, many women like their shawls plain. The shawls are naturally coloured grey, brown, ash, white or black. But with time, since Pashmina shawls take dyes seamlessly, they can be seen in any colour or shade. Brilliant as well as pastel shades conquer the shawl and make them more alluring to the eyes.
Simple, unadorned solid shawls that emphasize shape and texture over elaborate patterns or embellishments are the epitome of minimalist beauty. Made from the finest Cashmere wool, these shawls highlight the inherent beauty of the fabric with a single, understated color that draws attention to its plush, velvety feel. These shawls are classic and adaptable because of their simple design, which highlights the extraordinary quality of the material. Solid shawls give off a polished, elegant appearance that goes well with any ensemble, whether they are in earthy browns, deep maroon, or other bolder hues like ivory, charcoal, or emerald.
Kashmiri Shawls and Sustainable Fashion
Be it any pattern or design, the main attraction of a Kashmiri shawl is its purity. Whatever design, embroidery, or embellishment, it is Pashmina shawls that allure the onlookers on a different level. Pure Kashmiri shawls are hard to find, yet when you find them, you realize what you have been missing out on.
The pinnacle of environmentally friendly fashion, Kashmiri shawls are made from natural materials and ethical methods. These shawls, which are often woven from Cashmere or Pashmina wool, are created from the undercoat of Himalayan goats, which is combed rather than shorn to prevent injury to the goats. The gradual, conscientious harvesting process that prioritizes quality over quantity and environmental consciousness is in line with the ideas of sustainable fashion. Kashmiri shawls, which are frequently made by regional artists, honor the handicrafting customs that have been passed down through the years, strengthening ties to the area's rich cultural legacy and encouraging more environmentally friendly design.
The labor-intensive and long manufacturing method used to produce Kashmiri shawls embodies the principles of slow fashion. From hand-spinning the soft wool to weaving and embroidering elaborate motifs, each shawl is expertly made. In addition to guaranteeing the preservation of traditional methods, the manufacturing of these shawls empowers the local communities economically by promoting local artists. Kashmiri shawls, in contrast to mass-produced clothing, are made to last a lifetime and represent the philosophy of "buy less, buy better" since they are classic, sophisticated items that outlive fads and seasonal trends.