Luscious, luxurious, and exceptionally soft, Cashmere is one of those fabrics which one wants to feel more than wear. But many of us did not yet get a chance to do so. So we take you on the journey of how Cashmere feels, how it is made, and where it comes from. 

A lot more expensive, unique, and super comfy - Cashmere is one of the fabrics which has possessed royal admiration for centuries. But why is the fibre such a prized one, and why does Cashmere wrap stay with one for a lifetime? And if it is animal wool, why doesn't it feel itchy on the skin? All of these questions have risen from the customer end as the takers of Cashmere have always shown keen interest in the acquisition and processing of this fine wool. Everyone wonders about the finesse of this luxury fibre and hence remains curious about its source. At the same time, one feels that shawls and scarves made from any animal fibre would definitely feel itchy. Then why should one spend thousands of dollars to purchase a wrap that causes itch to their most delicate skin parts like the neck, back, shoulders etc? 

History in Europe

Historically, Cashmere has been one of the most popular fibre types when it came to fashion. Women who were remembered as fashion divas in their times preferred Cashmere scarves to all other accessories. This was 18th century Europe and Cashmere came to be known as the finest and the most luxurious fabric of all times. 

Is Cashmere Itchy? If yes, Why is Cashmere itchy? These are some vital questions that one should get answers to, before going out shopping for Cashmere. Let’s know it all!

Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere comes from the Himalayas, where the rare Cashmere goats are found scattered in different regions. These Cashmere goats are believed to grow the best quality Cashmere.  Owing to the Himalayas being the centre point of Cashmere production, Cashmere producing regions are Mongolia, China, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India. The finest Cashmere is produced by the Ladakhi goat, found in North India. It is the area of Changthang, which has a freezing temperature of -40 degrees C, where the goat resides. Since the temperatures are freezing in winter, nature blesses the goat with Cashmere, which is warm enough to keep it safe and comfortable all the cold season long.

The soft, fine, and luxurious fibre of Cashmere come from the prized Changthangi goats. These goats are rare and exotic. It grows luxury fine fleece over its body, which is later processed to become Cashmere sweaters, shawls, wraps, scarves, mufflers, socks and other accessories. 

Acquiring Cashmere

It is the Spring season, and the warmth of Cashmere makes the goat uncomfortable. As a result, it rubs its body against coarse surfaces and gets rid of some portion of the same. Wool from the goat is hence found around its occupying places. Shrubs, stones, walls and the ground, all are filled with goat hair. All of this spread-out wool is collected, yet there is still some amount left on the body. The left-out wool is professionally combed off gently, using specialized combs and tools. All of this is packed in small packets and processed manually later. 

Cashmere, from Ladakh, is processed in Kashmir, and this is the place where Europeans saw it first. From Kashmir, large exports of Cashmere products took place in the 18th to 19th centuries. Even now, Kashmir has the finest quality Cashmere. Shawls made from Ladakhi Cashmere are world-famous, and Europeans still swoon over this specific quality. This has been so since the early 18th century when Europeans first heard of this magnificent fabric.

Processing of this fine wool

If there is something that makes Cashmere the excellent fibre that it is, it is the processing it goes through to become a final wearable. The art of transforming raw Cashmere wool to complete products is called Pashmina. Pashmina is an art that was started in Kashmir by a Persian Saint, and because of him, the art was given a Persian name. (Pashm translates to ‘soft gold’ in Persian).

Before processing, the procurement of Cashmere is itself a challenge. Earlier one had to manually travel to Ladakh and procure the fine threads. But with travel ease, Cashmere reaches the valley in bulk, where specialist hands await.

Cashmere is combed by specialised tools in the springtime, which is the moulting season for the goats. It is the time when the goat is naturally losing its undercoat. This is raw Cashmere, and it comes from the goat’s belly, the underside of the throat, and behind the ears. Wool is collected in small pouches and it is later cleaned thoroughly to separate guard hair and other dirt attached to it. 

Steps to process Cashmere - the Finest Animal Hair

It takes a number of steps to process Cashmere in order to make it wearable for its takers. It all starts with the acquisition of fibre from Ladakh. The herders of the Cashmere-producing goat have to wait all year for early spring-summer. This is the time, from March to April, when Cashmere goats are ready to lose all their hair. Temperatures are already high at the altitudes, especially where Cashmere goats graze, and the hair becomes intolerable. This is the time when herders realise that it's time to collect the hair from their bodies. 

After collecting the hair from the goats’ bodies, herders keep them in small pouches. This is the material that goes in bulk to its processors. From Ladakh, fine Cashmere goes in bulk to Kashmir, where different artisans await its arrival. 

Processing Cashmere

To start with, Cashmere is cleaned. For this, women join hands and begin with washing the lumps of wool. This process is immensely hard and takes a lot of patience to do. Lumps of wool are cleaned, getting rid of any foreign materials like dirt, dust, vegetable waste or any waste that attaches itself to the goat’s body. Raw Cashmere is now clean, ready to meet another set of artisans. 

Spinning is another activity which comes immediately after cleaning. Raw wool is in lumps and is partially sorted during the cleaning process. Now, womenfolk take it for spinning, which is again done manually over a spinning wheel. The wheel assists the artisans to transform lumps of wool into delicate fibres. These fibres are super gentle and flimsy, such that one can even break them with fingers. To meet the high-quality standards that Cashmere is world-famous for, the diameter of the spun yarn has to be 12-16 microns only (a human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns). This wondrous fibre even has an insulating capability, which makes the finished product three times more insulating than sheep wool. 

Weaving the spun fibre

Post spinning, when rolls of Cashmere fibre are ready, weavers await its further processing. To start with, the fibre is stretched which expands it to its maximum capability. Post stretching, it is taken to a processing unit, where it is mounted over a wooden handloom. Artisans sit one or two individuals at a time, over the handloom, and in 3 to 4 days process the fibre. A shawl is complete in a few days, a scarf takes 2 or 3 days, whereas a men's shawl takes about a week. 

Expensive? Why not!

China, Mongolia, and Nepal are the producers of 90% of the total Cashmere in the world. Only 10% come from India and other Asian countries. The finest Cashmere is obtained from the Capra haircuts species of goats found in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, India. The annual yield from one Changthangi goat is roughly 150 grams. This makes the wool quite rare. For a large-sized women’s shawl, (200*100 cms), fleece from at least 3 to 4 goats is required. The same is required for a thin full-sized Cashmere cardigan. A goat that has the capacity to yield higher amounts might be chosen to prepare large sweaters, and if the quality has to be the best, then the goat’s underbelly fibre is chosen. 

Perhaps now we know that the high prices of Cashmere are very well deserved. Be it the labour-intensive process of acquiring and processing the raw fibre, the low yield per goat, or the exceptional softness and warmth of the final product, Cashmere is indeed the king of fibres. 

Why should we invest in it?

There are so many reasons why we should own at least one Cashmere product in our lifetime. While women might be indifferent to it because of its price, or dubious about its quality, there are plenty of them who are just curious. So we give them some good reasons to buy Cashmere today.

It is warmer than wool?

Why invest in a thick woollen scarf or sweater, when you can be more comfortable with a lightweight, fine Cashmere one? Yes, Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep wool, and lighter in weight too. This makes it the first preference while shopping for winter.

It is breathable

Despite being one of the warmest products in the world, Cashmere is quite breathable. One would never feel too hot in a Cashmere product, as it has great insulating properties. 

Is Cashmere Itchy?

This question surprised us too. When one of our customers asked us “Is Cashmere itchy?”, we were startled, because there is nothing as soft and smooth as Cashmere. As compared to sheep wool, Cashmere is far less itchy. We will discuss this topic in detail later. 

What does it feel like?

Cashmere has a heavenly feel. It has exceptional softness and it is lightweight and downy. It gives a person that kind of experience which he/she probably hasn't felt before. Once you wear it, you will forget about all the luxuries the world has.

How to Care for Cashmere?

A Cashmere wrap has to be cared about like a baby. From the way you wear it to its washing, drying, and storing, everything is to be done with proper precaution and care.

As far as washing is concerned it is better to wash this luxury fabric with your hands. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and a Cashmere shampoo. If you're short of the same, a mild baby shampoo too will work. Soak the product in for 30 seconds and then rinse with cold water. Do not wring

Drying Cashmere has to be natural. Just put your sweater/ wrap over a dry towel and roll the towel to absorb the water from it. Replace this wet towel with a new dry one, and let the gentle fabric air dry naturally

Storing your valued wrap or scarf again has to be a responsible process. The place where you store your precious piece has to be clean, dry, and disinfected. Do not store it in plastic as plastic helps grow moisture. Instead wrap it in large tissue papers, to keep it dry and safe. 

Some important precautions to keep in mind

Briefly, these are the steps to care for a Cashmere scarf post its season:

• Wash the Cashmere in lukewarm water. Cold water won't clean it properly and hot water will ruin its shape and texture
• Never dry Cashmere directly in sunlight. Never hang it whilst drying. These mistakes might cost you your super pricey piece of accessory. Hanging will tamper its shape permanently. Air drying your Cashmere accessories is the best way to go. 
• Make sure your Cashmere scarf or shawl is completely dry before you store it. If any amount of moisture remains, the scarf will be lost forever. Moisture is the biggest enemy when it comes to natural fibres. 
• Ironing a shawl/scarf is complicated. One cannot directly bring an iron in contact with Cashmere. Either one has to use a steam iron, or a dry iron can be used without direct contact with the fabric. Placing a cotton sheet in between Cashmere and the dry iron is the way to iron Cashmere when it is needed.

Storing Cashmere

• Storing Cashmere is in itself a task. When properly stored, Cashmere looks as fresh as new the next season. But if any carelessness is shown with regard to storage, your precious scarf/shawl will be ruined forever. One has to look for a clean and dry place that is away from direct sunlight. Moisture, in any way, will damage the fibre. 
• Always avoid stacking Cashmere shawls/scarves or sweaters over each other. This causes friction which damages the surface. Instead, try placing an acid-free tissue paper in between the folds and between two consecutive shawls so that the surface remains tension free. 
• Always check for any stains before you store the Cashmere for the next season. The stains will deepen their effects on the fine fabric. Hence, the shawl/scarf should be cleaned off any dirt or even a small spot before wearing it next year.

Can a Cashmere Wrap Stretch?

Yes, Cashmere can stretch and get disfigured. This is the reason why it should not be wrung after washing. Also, a Cashmere wrap should not be hung from a hanger, as it has more drape than bounce. As such, it does not return to its original form. Instead, it should be stored in a drawer in a folded position, or else hanging will pull it down due to gravity and it will get deformed forever. 

If your Cashmere has stretched for some reason, wash it in lukewarm water, reshape it, and dry it flat. There is a possibility that it might regain its original shape.

Why does Cashmere feel itchy?

If Cashmere is still feeling itchy in your body, you might have an allergy when it comes to animal fibre. There are a lot of individuals in the world who are allergic to all-natural fibres. You might be one of them. Many such individuals believe that only fake Cashmere is itchy, but when they shop for pure pieces, they wonder why is 100% Cashmere itchy, if it is purest. Well, pure Cashmere will be especially itchy if you are allergic to natural animal hair. Fake or mixed Cashmere will feel better to them.

It is highly essential to test Cashmere against your skin if you are planning to buy one. Rub the inside of Cashmere against your neck or other sensitive parts of your body. If you feel a rash coming up or an immediate itch, then Cashmere will definitely not suit you. If, however, Cashmere has swooned you and you anyway want to wear it, you can cover it underneath with cotton or silk layering. Or else, wear an organic cotton layer underneath your Cashmere sweaters or shawls if you're prone to itchiness.

Is Cashmere really itchy?

No. It's not. Even newborn babies are wrapped in small-sized Cashmere wraps, and their delicate skin doesn't suffer from any negative reaction. So if your Cashmere is feeling scratchy or irritating, there might be a bigger problem to tackle.

Nevertheless, the texture of Cashmere is so soft and gentle and doesn't cause an itch on the skin. One might feel itchy in woollens, but the softness of Cashmere will definitely amaze them

Which fabric is itchy?

Cashmere vs Wool is a big topic that has to be clearly understood. The difference between Cashmere and wool is that between animal hair and wool. Wool is exclusively collected from sheep, but animal hair comes from goats, alpacas, llamas and others. Wool helps animals to protect their bodies from rain, snow and other external factors, but animal hair keeps the animal warm. Its primary use is keeping the animal warm when conditions aren't much suitable for them to bear. 

Cashmere is animal hair and wool is sheep wool that comes from merino and other types of sheep. Animal hair is softer than sheep wool and is hence preferred when it comes to apparel. 

Even Though wool is cheaper than Cashmere, it is the roughness of wool that makes it the second choice. Sheep wool can be itchy and pretty uncomfortable when it comes to touching the bare skin. When closely observed under a microscope, wool fibres have something strange in them. They are not smooth like perhaps they should have been. Under a microscope, rough edges can be seen, and these are the enemies that rub against the skin and cause itchiness. This causes mild to severe irritation depending upon the type of skin its wearer has. 

The Luxury of Cashmere

That is about the feel and experience that a Cashmere gives you. It is a luxury fabric that comes from the mighty Himalayan ranges to your wardrobes, after treading a painstaking path. Exactly from its procurement to its finish, your lavish product passes through the hands of a hundred craftsmen, who put their heart and soul into detailing it. It is their love and care that makes it extra special, and worthy of every effort spent to have it. 

For the most ardent patrons of Cashmere, having the same is nothing less than a dream come true.  The way it looks, the way it feels, and the way it keeps one away from the gelid cold days of the winter season are simply awe-inspiring. A Large Cashmere shawl weighs just 400 plus grams and that is one of the most amazing features of this luxury accessory. A lightweight shawl so warm that one doesn't need to layer in heavy blankets and jackets. 

Also read: IS MERINO WOOL BETTER THAN CASHMERE?

Not just shawls and scarves

Cashmere fibre has recently been used in making throws and baby blankets and this should itself tell people around the world about its finesse and smooth texture, besides its warmth. Cashmere blankets are super lightweight yet warm and this makes them a favourite. Baby blankets are cosy enough to keep even days-old babies comfy. Hence Cashmere is for everyone - Timeless and Ageless.

When Cashmere was introduced for the first time in Kashmir, it was Europeans, who became the most obsessed with it. High demands from Europe and people themselves visiting the valley made it clear to the world that Kashmir had given birth to the most luxurious accessory of all times. Even now, Cashmere holds the same stature around the globe, which makes it a must-have for admirers of traditional fashion and style. 

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

Conclusion

In conclusion, is cashmere itchy? The answer largely depends on the quality of the cashmere and how it's processed. High-quality cashmere, known for its fine, soft fibers, is typically not itchy and is revered for its luxurious feel against the skin. However, lower-grade cashmere or blends that include other fibers might not offer the same level of comfort and could cause irritation for those with sensitive skin.

When considering a cashmere purchase, it's important to prioritize quality and craftsmanship to ensure that your experience with this luxurious fabric is as comfortable as it should be. By choosing well-made, pure cashmere garments, you can avoid the potential itchiness associated with inferior products.

Ultimately, is cashmere itchy? It shouldn't be if you invest in authentic, high-quality cashmere. This fabric is celebrated for its softness and warmth, making it a cherished material for those who appreciate comfort and luxury in their clothing.

You have just been given a choice. You have to choose between a Merino wool scarf and a Cashmere scarf. What do you choose? How do you choose? Do you have enough knowledge about Merino wool and Cashmere that will affect your choice?

The only thing that will help you shop like a breeze is the perfect knowledge about the products you have to choose between. Hence we write this blog today to give you the right information about the basic rules of winter shopping. What is merino wool? What is Cashmere? Is Cashmere also a wool type? Do we only have two alternatives, or can we opt for a third one?  Sit back and relax, as we take you into the basics of the wool industry

What is Wool?

The thick coat found on a sheep’s body is wool. And that is the only thing that wool is. A goat’s coat won't be called wool, but hair. Nevertheless, animals have two kinds of hair or wool on their bodies, One is the overcoat or guard hair which protects animals from rain primarily. And the other, finer version of wool or hair is the undercoat, which keeps them warm. Overcoats are thick and less pricey, while undercoats are fine, warm, and expensive when sold as processed products.

History of Wool

It is not some decades ago, but wool has a deep history. It is believed that wool used in garments dates back to 6000 BC. Ancient Iranians are believed to be the first ones to rear sheep and use their wool in garments and process them into fabric. This practice of theirs is still fruitful, and the wool industry knows no bounds till now. There is just one difference. They only used sheep wool, but today wool has a large number of variants. Wool types are classified on the basis of softness, fineness, and warmth. Again users have to choose between wool and hair, as hair has different sources from goats, rabbits, or alpacas.

Properties of Wool

Wool remains the most preferred fabric as soon as winter arrives. Here are a number of strong reasons that make wool the first thought. 

• Wool is really durable and hard to tear as compared to some fine variants
• Wool has good insulation properties. Its moisture-absorbing properties and the ability to trap air keeps its users warm. 
• Wool takes in dyes really well. Just one coating of a dye is sufficient to change the colour of wool fabric.
• The best thing about wool is that it is recyclable.

Types of Wool

There are a number of varieties of wool. Let us summarize:

Lambswool

The very first shearing of a baby sheep gives off a really fine and soft wool, which is called Lambswool. Lambswool comes from a lamb younger than 7 months old. 1 to 13 kg of wool can be produced by a single animal. It depends on their breed, health condition, and type. Some sheep breeds produce wool strong enough to make carpets, while others produce fine wool for making wraps or scarves. 

Merino Wool

This wool comes from merino sheep. It is the softest wool in the world and the most sorted one. It is popular for being used in clothing. Merino wool clothing is warm, luxurious, and fine as compared to other sheep wool types. It is believed that the micron count of Merino fibre can go down to even 20 microns at times. 

Mohair wool

Mohair is goat hair, which comes from the Angora goat. The hair has more length, which makes the final product a smooth appearance and feel. Mohair products are shiny, soft, and lustrous. These are durable and hence used in making apparel, baby clothing, sweaters, and wraps.

Angora wool

This fine hair is sourced from the undercoat of the Angora rabbit. Angora hair products are exceptionally soft and smooth owing to the fact that Angora fibre is just 10-15 microns in diameter. Angora rabbits are combed throughout the year, and by the end of the year, they produce up to 500 grams of wool.

Qiviut

It is the arctic musk ox that gives Qiviut. Qiviut is fine, expensive, and softer as compared to sheep wool. It has the amazing property of not shrinking in water and is surprisingly 8 times warmer than sheep wool. Like Cashmere, the musk ox sheds its fleece in the moulting season, and its herders comb it off gently and pick it from the ground. 

Cashmere wool

Cashmere, as explained earlier, is also goat hair. It is the down coat of the Changthangi goat. Cashmere is world-famous for its warmth, softness, and grace. The diameter of a Cashmere fibre is just 12 to 16 microns, which is one-fourth of a human hair. Cashmere is found growing on the underbelly and neck areas of the Cashmere goat. One goat yields around 150 grams of wool per year, which makes it scarce and hence expensive. Wool from 3 to 4 goats is used to make one Cashmere wrap.

Also read: WHICH COUNTRY HAS THE BEST CASHMERE?

Vicuna

One of the rarest kinds of wool in the world is Vicuna. Vicuna is even finer than Cashmere. It comes from the vicuna, a small llama-like animal, which is native to the Andes Mountains in Peru. The hair of Vicuna is exceptionally gentle, and owing to this, it doesn't accept dyes. Hence Vicuna wraps are always in their natural shade.

Is Merino wool better than Cashmere?

Both Merino and Cashmere are warm, soft, and comfy, and make their wearers quite stylish. There are, however, a large number of differences between them, which make the Cashmere class apart. Both these wool and hair varieties are unique in their own way, but there are a number of features that make Cashmere expensive and sorted all over the world.

• Cashmere is 8 times warmer than Merino wool. Hence Cashmere is more expensive, as it gives more warmth, and is more lightweight in comparison. 
• Cashmere is softer than merino wool. Its fibre is just 12 to 16 microns. 
• Merino wool is more durable than Cashmere. Cashmere can tear easily when treated harshly.

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

Is Mohair more expensive than Cashmere?

Cashmere is generally considered more expensive than Mohair due to factors like rarity and processing, it's important to note that the price of both fibers can vary widely based on various factors. When considering luxury fibers like Cashmere and Mohair, it's advisable to research the product's quality, authenticity, and craftsmanship before making a purchase.

The world's most popular and exquisite and luxurious accessory is perhaps the Pashmina shawl. From ancient royalty to celebrities today, everyone has been smitten by the sheer looks and feel of Pashmina shawls that come all the way from Kashmir. But have you ever noticed that all Pashmina shawls are not the same? While some are traditional, others are super modern. While some are large and heavy, others are super light and portable. And while some take years and years to complete, others take a few weeks. Where does this discrepancy come from? What are the types of Pashmina shawls, and how are they prepared? We have solutions for all your doubts, but first, do you know what the Pashmina shawl is?

What is a Pashmina Shawl?

Pashmina shawls are those luxury wraps that are handcrafted from pure Ladakhi Cashmere. Cashmere wool is the processed fleece that grows over the body of a rare Ladakhi goat. The goat sheds its fleece in the moulting period, which is collected and processed to prepare Pashmina shawls. 

Types of Pashmina Shawls

On the basis of adorning and patterning them, we have mainly 5 types of Pashmina shawls, popular in Kashmir. Even Though Pashmina shawls have adapted to modern design, these classic styles remain timeless. 

1. Hand Embroidered Shawls

When it comes to the most common, most revered, and the cream of the crop, nothing beats the classic demeanour of hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls. These luxury shawls were amongst the very first patterns when Pashmina was discovered. Let us delve into the nitty gritties of sozni hand embroidery and discover how marvelous and intricate this type is. 

Sozni embroidery

Sozni embroidery is the most popular type of embroidery done on Pashmina shawls. This is because the delicate and fine Pashmina demands embroidery even fine. And Sozni embroidery has been declared the winner for a long time. The artisans of Sozni embroidery use silk or wool threads to create motifs over the base with fine needles. Threads for embroidery are chosen after the colour of the shawl is declared. Only the best combination of threads is chosen, that will blend gracefully with the base colour. But first, the shawl is prepared for embroidery in the following steps

Step 1: Block Printing the design

A finely carved walnut wood stamp, that has the embroidery motif carved on it, lays the base for embroidery threads. Embroidery workshops in Kashmir have a vast collection of these blocks, and these have been used for decades now. These have been handcrafted by expert walnut carvers for years. The block for a particular shawl is chosen carefully and imprinted on the shawl after dipping it in chemical ink. The impression thus cast on the base of the shawl is to be followed by embroidery artisans. 

Step 2: Choosing embroidery threads

Embroidery threads are carefully chosen by designers and workmen who have experience of decades in this attention-demanding activity. They have known which colour combinations have always been liked by people, and hence stick to those mostly. If however, a shade does not produce the desired result, the threads are plucked out, and new shades are chosen by these perfectionist workmen.

Step 3: Embroidering the Shawls

The third and final step is following the imprinted designs and hand embroidering the shawl with the help of fine threads and needles. Men either gather at workshops or take the shawl home to work from their comfort zones. Nevertheless, the shawls hence crafted look nothing less than art marvels.

Sozni embroidery can take anywhere from 3 to 5 years to complete. Jamawar patterns, where the shawl is filled profusely with embroidery take up to 5 years to complete. As a result, these are washed thoroughly post embroidering as it has been 5 years of moving from one hand to another. This is done under spring water, and the shawls are air-dried later. Post this, the shawls are ironed and sent to markets for sale. 

 Tilla embroidery 

Tilla embroidery, locally called Tilla dozi was first discovered, only to be perfect for the then-rich and affluent. Shawls with tilla embroidery were affordable for kings and royals because the threads used in this embroidery were made of real gold and silver. This is however not the case now, and the threads used are metallic ones dipped in gold and silver. Here are the steps that are followed to craft a tilla-embroidered pashmina shawl

Step 1: Designing the Embroidery Pattern

The process of Tilla embroidery begins with the designer (locally called Naqash) drawing a design over tracing paper. Then he perforates this paper with a specialized tool (needle). In the meantime, other artisans prepare the ink, which is believed to be prepared from kerosene and sand. The perforated trace paper is now placed over the shawl, and a duster is chosen to be dipped in the earlier prepared ink. Next, the duster is moved over the perforated paper which mirrors the design of the shawl. 

Step 2: Embroidering the shawl

The shawl, ready with stamped design, is passed on to the Tilla embroidery artisans, who carefully use two main threads to embroider it. One thread is gold or silver which is the Tilla thread. The other one is a staple thread, golden in colour, which helps affix and hold the thick Tilla thread with the shawl. 

Step 3: Finishing processes

Tilla threads are now made of copper, which is dipped in gold or silver and used to embroider Tilla shawls. Once embroidered, these art pieces are sent for washing, ironing, and packing. Special care of the Tilla threads has to be taken during the ironing process, as the metal threads have to come in contact with heat. 

Papier Mache Embroidery

A thicker and more colourful version of the sozni embroidery is the Papier Mache embroidery. The difference between the two is that Papier Mache embroidery uses thicker needles and threads, and the area to be embroidered in these shawls is more. As such, more colourful and chunky patterns are created to make the shawl heavier and intensely hued. 

The embroidery form derives its name from the papier mache art of Kashmir (where chewed paper is transformed into utility and decorative articles), which looks similar to the embroidery patterns. The process of Papier Mache embroidery done on Pashmina is exactly the same as Sozni embroidery, but the thickness of the threads and type of motifs differ. 

2. Kani Pashmina Shawls 

Nothing is more exquisite, artistic, and aesthetic to the senses as is the Kashmiri Kani shawl. Be it the patterns, the base of pure Cashmere, or the breathtakingly beautiful motifs woven with the fine base, everything awestrikes the onlookers. Kani shawl making is as ancient as Pashmina shawls themselves. These two are inseparable. One might think of embroidering sheep wool shawls in the embroideries of Pashmina, but never will a woman imagine Kani weaving in a shawl other than Pashmina shawls. 

The making of Pashmina is as complicated as carpet making. As a matter of fact, both processes look exactly the same, but of course, aren't. Here is a step-by-step guide to the making of the world-famous Kani shawl, which got the fashion icon Empress Josephine swooning and fascinated. 

Step 1: Designing the pattern to be woven

The designer (naash) designs a Talim, which is a coded pattern from the weavers to get guidance. The weavers bring this pattern to life with the help of countless bobbins, or wooden sticks called Kanis. 

Step 2: Introduction of Kanis (wooden sticks)

The Kanis are loaded with threads of different colours which are to be inserted in the warp threads as wefts. There is no embroidery. Neither is the shuttle active, moving from one side of the warp threads to the other. Instead, threads from these Kanis are inserted at different points across the warm threads. This entire task is immensely time and energy-consuming, and for this reason, Kani shawls take years to complete. 

“Four red, two yellow, six blue...

Six white, two green, eight pinks…" 

These are some of the clamours heard in the karkhanas (factories) where Kani shawls are being woven. 

The most skilled weavers can weave up to one inch of the shawl in Kani weave per day. Around 75 to 100 Kanis are used to make one Pashmina shawl in Kani weave. Owing to the time-consuming process, it takes over 3 - 4 years to craft one Kani shawl, which is expensive and rare to find. This is the case with Kani Jamawar shawls, where the Kani weave spreads all over the shawl. 

 3. Laced Pashmina Shawls

For the modern young audience, Pashmina shawls have come out of the traditional shell and now feature contemporary patterns. One of the modern designs in Pashmina shawls is the laced pattern. Pashmina shawls, when in their solid form, and handed over to artisans who hand stitch lace over the borders mainly, and in the centre at times.

Pashmina shawls mostly feature the French Chantilly Laces. These laces are luxurious, often made from cotton which is lightweight yet durable. French Chantilly laces have been a symbol of affluence and high social status in ancient France. Their dainty fabric is fine and airy and hence chosen to festoon the gossamer base of Pashmina shawls. Chantilly lace is a type of lightweight lace (30-180 g/m 2) on a net background, usually with a floral pattern, outlined with silk threads. The name of this lace came from the French city Chantilly. This type of lace is a timeless classic. Sheer or semi-sheer, with scalloped edges, it is perfect for bridal fashion, airy evening gowns, or overlays.

The laces are hand stitched onto the shawls, as machine stitching would end up tearing the shawls as well as the laces. The hand stitching process takes immense savoir-faire, time, and dedication from the artisan, in addition to skill and patience. Only a small number of artisans, who have learned the art for years, have the skill of hand stitching these delicate laces onto the surface of Pashmina shawls.

4. Swarovski Pashmina Shawls

Recent development in the making of contemporary Pashmina shawls led designers to handcraft Swarovski crystal Pashmina Shawl. Swarovski crystals are diamond-like crystals, but actually, a man-made form of glass created with a patented process. The crystals are beautiful, especially when featured over the timeless Pashmina shawls. 

Crystals of different colours are collected, which are strategically chosen by designers and artisans. These are placed on the already stamped Pashmina shawl, over the stamp marks. This is done with the help of tweezers, as the crystals are small, and placing them with fingers might not work, or displace them. Then the shawl is placed under a heat press to make the crystals adhere to the fabric. A grease-proof paper or Teflon sheet is placed over the crystals, and the fabric is pressed at a suitable temperature for just a few seconds. The crystals become hot, and hence it is recommended not to touch them as soon as you switch the heat press off. The shawl is to be cooled down for a few minutes till you can touch or use it. 

Also read: WHICH COUNTRY HAS THE BEST CASHMERE?

5. Kalamkari Pashmina Shawls

The word Kalamkari comes from two words, ‘Kalam’ meaning ‘Pen’ and ‘Kari’ meaning ‘Work’. Hence the nomenclature indicates that some kind of penwork might be associated with these shawls, which is true. 

This exquisite form of textile art came into existence during the Indo -Persian trade. All textiles which were hand tainted with natural pens were called kalamkari. As a result, even Pashmina artisans were inspired by this art form, and Kalamakri shawls came into existence. The exquisite art, hence, dates back centuries, yet artisans have now evolved as far as the paintings that they painted are concerned. 

The process of making Kalamkari shawls is quite complicated. Some believe that it is whole 25 steps that go into making one shawl. These steps are dyeing, hand painting, outlining, washing, ironing, and more. The solid Pashmina shawls are dyed in the specific colour required by the seller. As they dry, bamboo sticks (kalam) are prepared - shaped and pointed at the end to form a nib. The pens are then dipped in vegetable dyes and used over the shawl by skilled and experienced craftsmen. The motifs they hand paint can be later outlined in black or any darker shade. This is optional. 

It takes around 7 - 8 months to prepare one Kalamkari shawl. The shawl looks like an art piece, as it is filled with myriads of colours and shades that look brilliant and out of the ordinary. 

Also read: TURNING THE WAYS FOR THE PLEDGE OF FINEST CASHMERE

We love it, don't we?

What intricate processes, what time-consuming procedures, and what skill of the artisans who make it! Making a Pashmina shawl is truly a journey of awe-striking events in which one falls in love with the art form even more.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS DURING THE DOGRA PERIOD

Kashmiri shawls are coveted fabrics that have a rich history of being the most valued possession. Cherished and prized by the courts of Caesar, or the French queen Mary Antoinette, Kashmiri shawls have enjoyed patronage in Royal European courts as well. However, it was after the aegis of Empress Josephine that these shawls gained immense impetus. Josephine was considered a style icon, and hence everything she wore would become a trend. The same was the case with these shawls, which the Empress owned over a hundred. Pashmina shawls come from Cashmere which is often referred to as soft gold, owing to its heavenly softness, lightweight texture and fine weave. 

The Luxurious Kashmiri Shawl

Conscientiously hand-woven Kashmiri shawls are synonymous with exquisiteness and class. Pashmina comes from the word ‘Pashm’, which is a Persian word for ‘Soft Gold’, and truly so. The shawls are regarded as the best of their type, and this has been the case for centuries. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls have found their eminent places in museums across the world like the Museum of Modern Art in New York to the Louvre in Paris.

Kashmiri shawls are handcrafted from Cashmere wool which comes from the best goat species in the world. The goat is the Capra Hircus, which is locally known as the Changthangi goat or the Pashmina goat. It is reared by nomads at a height of over 14000 feet in the Changthang area of Ladakh. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls are used synonymously with Pashmina shawls.

Back to History

The weaving of Cashmere to produce fine Kashmiri Pashmina shawl dates back to 3000 BC in Kashmir. Back then, it was just the affluent population that could afford and hence wear Pashmina shawls. The royal courts, hence, enjoyed the luxury of this coveted fabric in their courts. But it was only after the patronage of Empress Josephine that made Kashmiri shawls the most sought-after accessory in Europe.

In Kashmir, it was King Zain ul Abideen who has been considered the pioneer of the Pashmina industry. He ruled over Kashmir in the 15th century, and it was under his rule that Kashmiri shawls thrived. It was he who invited craftsmen from Turkistan to train the locals in weaving the yarn. Mughal emperors in general gave a boost to this art form, and hence the economy prospered much in this era. 

Pashmina art has been mentioned in literature. It was King Akbar who took a keen interest in supporting this industry, and the literature of his time (1556-1605 CE) mentions Pashmina much. In fact, the motifs over the shawls of this time were named after him. Even now motifs embroidered over Kashmiri shawls have Mughal influence. Motifs like Shah Pasand (Emperor's delight) and Buta Mohammad Shah (Mohammad Shah's flower) are a testimony to the Mughal patronage of this art form. Kashmiri Pashmina shawls find mentioned in the autobiography of Emperor Jehangir (Tuzk e Jahangiri), where the emperor mentions how Pashmina shawls were his favourite clothing piece. Hence, the Mughal era saw Pashmina art reach its zenith. So much so, that one and a half square yards of Pashmina fabric could be passed through a finger ring!

The 18th Century Pashmina

In the 18th century, Pashmina art travelled to Europe and gained popularity among the affluent circles there. The world-famous Emperor Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a Kashmiri Kani shawl. She was fascinated by the same, and it is believed that she later ordered a few hundred shawls. This patronage of hers made the shawl fashion statements in Europe. 

It was Europeans who invented the term ‘Cashmere’ which was an anglicization of the word ‘Kashmir’. Kashmir, too, increased its production of Pashmina shawl due to high demand from Europe. With the ever-increasing popularity, British and French textile owners started copying Pashmina shawls. They conducted a number of experiments with the Cashmere fibre, and mixed the same with other fibres. But never could they attain a fabric as fine, soft and luxurious as a Pashmina shawl.

In Scotland, however, the best copy was finally made. It wasn't as good as a Pashmina shawl but gained a decent impetus. It was called the Paisley shawl, after its hometown Paisley - a town in Scotland. These shawls were cheaper than original Pashmina shawls and hence became famous around Europe. By the end of the 19th century, many versions of Pashmina shawls were easily available around Europe, and women invested in them for their cheap prices yet a little Pashmina-like quality. 

Types of Kashmiri shawls 

The types of Kashmiri Pashmina shawls back then were different from what they are now. There were four major types of Pashmina shawls:

• Jamawars: Jamawar Pashmina shawls featured designs all over their base. 
• Doshalas: Also called Shoulder Mantles, these were sewn back to back in pairs, i.e. the under surfaces of the shawl were never seen. Doshalas had varied dimensions
• Patkas: These were like sashes, long and narrow. These too, like Doshalas, had varied dimensions
• Rumals: Square shawls were called Rumals.

How did Kashmiri Shawl look back then?

From the 17th century to the 18th century, the body of shawls was kept plain. There would be slight vertical borders that would run along the length of the shawl. But as time passed, designs filled the entire bodies of Kashmiri shawls and made them more extravagant. Hence came Jamawar shawls, which featured embroidery motifs all over the base and many more variants. Kani shawl was one of the biggest feats that Pashmina achieved. Kani shawls were the ones that caused a furore in the European markets after Empress Jopsehine set these to a timeless fashion.

Kashmiri shawls get colourful

When Kashmiri shawl making started, these shawls were kept as such, in their natural shades. Hence only brown, grey, white and black shawls were seen. But later, organic dyestuff was used to colour these shawls, and the Cashmere base took the dyes seamlessly. As many as 60 colours were used to dye Pashmina shawls, which looked even more ethereal with new and brilliant colours.

Motifs used in Pashmina shawl

Inspired by the Mughal era, and other influences, there are a number of popular motifs used on Kashmiri shawls:

• Buti: Buti is a tiny singular flower. A shawl on which this motif is embroidered is called a Bootidaar shawl. 
• Khat Rast: Khat rast is a pattern with stripes running along the length of the shawl. 
• Cypress: Cypress designs are those where a bunch of flowers emerge from a single stem. The stem showcases its roots also that spread far across the shawl. 
• Buta Design: Buta is a multi-floral. Butas are larger than Butis, and a shawl containing Butas looks more filled with embroidery than a bootidaar shawl.
• Zanjeer: Zanjeer literally means chain. This design features a horizontal border which encloses other famous motifs like paisley, flowers etc. 
• Badam, Ambe: This is the paisley motif and is called in different terms in different languages. 
• Shikargarh: This motif features hunting scenes which was a leisure time activity for Mughals. These shawls show jungle scenes and animal figures. 
• Hashi: A vertical border runs all around the shawl, and the four corners consist of a large singular motif inside the border.
• Floral Bouquets: Some Pashmina Shawls feature bunches of flowers without leaves. There is a large flower in the middle, which is surrounded by smaller ones. 

Patterns on Kashmiri Shawl

Kashmiri shawls hosted a number of patterns, the primary amongst them being embroidery. Embroidery done on these shawls was inspired by the Mughals who were the first ones to introduce these. Here are some famous embroideries done on Pashmina shawls:

• Sozni embroidery: Sozni Kari uses fine needles and silk threads to make labyrinthine designs on a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl. This fine embroidery was well chosen to embroider Pashmina shawls as the fine base couldn't bear the thick threads of Aari embroidery or crewel Kari. Sozni embroidery patterns are different. In some shawls the embroidery runs as a floral vine around the shawl, in some, it spreads as small Booti motifs, and in some, the entire base is filled with motifs, closely packed. 

• Tilla Embroidery: Locally known as Tilla Dozi, this type of embroidery used gold and silver threads to embroider Kashmiri shawls. These shawls were only afforded by the affluent and rich, as the price of Pashmina in addition to that of gold and silver became humongous. In the present times, Tilla is done by metal threads which are dipped in gold or silver, and the original metals aren't used anymore. 

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS IN MID-VICTORIAN NOVELS

More Patterns in Pashmina Shawl

Other than embroideries, Pashmina shawls used to be embellished in two more patterns. Kalamkari and Kani

• Kalamkari shawls took inspiration from Iran and the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. These shawls are hand-painted shawls, over which bamboo pens are used to draw patterns out of vegetable dyes. These hand-painted motifs are sometimes bordered with sozni embroidery. 
• Kani shawls: One of the most well-known and luxurious shawls of Kashmir has been the Kani shawl. This shawl is patterned during its weaving, and embroidery or painting is used. The warp threads are made from Cashmere, and the wefts threads are coloured ones which appear as motifs on the shawl on completion. 

Making of Kashmiri Shawl

The making of Pashmina shawls in Kashmir is a complicated process. Here is an overview of all the processes that go into the making of one shawl

Spinning: Spinning transforms twisted fibres into fine yarn which is possible to weave. The traditional method for spinning is the use of spinning wheels called Yinder locally. The yarn obtained from the Yinder is fine and exceptionally lightweight. Its diameter is just 12 to 16 microns. This yarn is sent to weavers for weaving into fabric.

Weaving: Weaving is done by men over a handloom over which the spun yarn is mounted. This yarn is hand woven for a few days to convert it into the fabric. This fabric can be Pashmina shawls, scarves, or wraps. These are then washed with natural soaps and sent for finishing.

Finishing: The washed shawl is tweezed, foreign threads are clipped, and the surface is smoothened by brushing it with a hard brush (locally known as Kasher). Uneven threads and superficial fibres are hence removed. 

Washing: The fabric then undergoes repeated washing which is done with spring water by expert washermen. 

Dyeing: If the fabric is required to be dyed in other shades it is dyed as per the demand.

Stretching: For a few days the fabric is stretched, and then packed in plastic bags for sale. 

Also read: FINEST CASHMERE IN THE HANDS OF ARTISANS

Threats to Pashmina 

The Pashmina industry is facing a crisis in the present times. 

• The area of Changthang, from where Cashmere is acquired, remains cut off from the world as a result of freezing temperatures and snow. Because of this inaccessibility from November to February, middlemen lose contact with herders. The herders, too, migrate to warmer areas and those with grazing lands close to the Chinese border along with their herds. Hence this loss of communication acts as a threat to the Cashmere trade, and hence that of Pashmina shawls. 
• Another threat to Pashmina making is the extremely cold temperature of Ladakh, which at times leads to the death of little ones amongst the herds. This has hit the nomads’ life as well as the production of Cashmere hard. 
• Effects of the power loom are proving fatal to the original art of Pashmina making. Power loom weaving of Pashmina involves mixing pure Cashmere threads with silk or nylon and then treating the same with harsh chemicals. The shawl prepared in such a way is in no way pure or soft like the pure Pashmina shawls. But since these are cheap and quickly processed, they pose a great threat to the original art. 
• A large number of weavers and spinners are switching to white-collar jobs for the reason of not getting enough compensation for their hard work. Owing to this, art no longer attracts the younger generation, and they opt for other means of livelihood.

Also read: THE TRAIL OF INDIA’S CASHMERE GOAT MEN

Concluding

We see that the glorious art of Pashmina which was once the first preference of women all over the world is losing its charm. What it needs is our love and support, for the art and its artists. For this reason, we at Pashmina.com elucubrate to bring back its lost grandeur and dignity. Working directly with artisans, paying them fair compensations in fair trade, acquiring the purest Pashmina from the original artisans for the art, and offering them to the real patrons of the art is the core function of this organisation. 

Also read: HOW WARM IS PASHMINA? TYPES OF WOOL

The first thing that comes to our minds, as soon as winter or fall arrives, is layering oneself with warm clothes. Anything that keeps us comfortable and warm in the colder seasons will automatically be the first preference as a nip fills the air. Woolen garments are a popular choice, apart from other varieties of tough and thick fabrics. But do we know our garments well? In modern times, consumers have become sensitive to what they are wearing. Now they care about where the apparel came from, and how has it been procured. And while Pashmina - the world-famous art form - generates the warmest apparel and wraps in the world, we compare it to other varieties like merino wool, angora and others. 

What actually is wool?

Many are confused about the definitions of types of wool and animal hair. Let's discuss these in detail. Wool is the outer layer of a sheep’s body. And that is the only thing that wool is! Hair on the other hand is the outer layer of the bodies of a few animals like goats, rabbits, alpacas, and others. Hence when we say wool, we mean the outer coat of a sheep. Hair, contrarily, is of two types - guard hair and undercoat. While guard hair protects the outer skin of the animal, the undercoat keeps it warm and safe from cold. Undercoats are fine, high-priced, and luxurious to use after processing. Cashmere, for example, is an undercoat of the Changthangi goat, and don't we all know how expensive and extravagant it is?

The discovery of this warm fibre

Historians date wool back to around 6000 BC. Wool was used in clothing since then. Ancient Iranians, according to some, reared sheep. Hence, they acquired it from the animals. The wool was processed to make a few apparel, wraps, and accessories like socks and mufflers. Since then wool, as well as goat hair, has evolved and spread across the fashion industry in hundreds of varieties. Now we have the luxury of choosing which kind of wool we want to wear, how it should be crafted (sustainable vs fast fashion), and what requirements of ours should it meet. Not just apparel, woolen home furnishing is also popular, as woolen curtains, beddings, rugs, and chair covers too are freely available.

Why do we prefer sheep fleece the most?

Women and men alike give wool their first preference for a number of reasons. Here are some of the reasons that make it the first winter thought:

• It is a durable fabric. Wool is water repellent too, which makes it absorb up to a third of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet
• It is a good insulator because of this moisture-absorbing property. 
• It takes dyes easily. Wool, as well as its nearest counterpart animal hair, both accept colour well
• The modern world demands recycling products for the betterment of the environment. And thankfully wool and hair, are both recyclable. 

Types of wool

Wool is classified into a number of varieties. These types of wool are based on softness, luxury factor, and warmth. And since wool is different from hair, clothing made from it is different from clothing made from animal hair

Here are the varieties.

Lambswool

It is the very first shearing session of sheep which produces the softest wool for the season. Lambs younger than seven months produce the best quality wool. Depending upon their health and breed type, sheep can produce as much as thirteen kg of wool. Whilst clothing uses a major portion of this, wool from certain sheep is strong enough to process into carpets and rugs. The softer version goes into apparel or fine wraps.

Merino Wool

The finest and the most squishy soft wool comes from Merino sheep and is hence called Merino wool. Merino wool is the most used in clothing. A few varieties of Merino wool are transformed into luxury clothing as its micron count is around 20. Apparel and wraps made from merino wool have a fine drape and a gorgeous appearance. 

Mohair

It is the exotic Angora goat that produces mohair. Mohair fibre has a good length. Long fibre induces a smooth touch, and hence garments made from Angora feel exceptionally soft and silky smooth. Mohair wool is best for making luxury dresses, baby clothing, fine sweaters, and scarves. 

Angora

The Angora rabbit produces angora. The fibre is immensely fine and soft, as it measures only 10-15 microns. Angora rabbits get a continuous combing, and by the end of the year, the total amount of hair weighs just 400 grams!

Qiviut

Native to the arctic, it is the large muskox that produces Qiviut. Qiviut is more expensive than sheep wool, and much softer too. It is 8 times warmer than sheep wool and does not shrink like ordinary wool does when in contact with water. The muskoxen shed their warm coat during their melting season. The herders have to comb their bodies for the wool. Some portion finds place around the surroundings. That is handpicked later. 

Pashmina

Pashmina is the art of transforming Cashmere into luxury apparel and accessories, especially shawls, which are called Pashmina shawls. Cashmere comes from the down coat of the Changthangi goat of Ladakh, which is processed to craft clothing and accessories. World famous for its soft touch, smooth texture, delicate finesse, and unparalleled warmth, Cashmere wool fibre measures just 12-16 microns.

Acquisition of Cashmere is labour intensive and it takes more than a week to fully acquire wool from the goat’s body by combing it. On top of that, one goat produces just 150 grams of Cashmere wool a year, and to craft one large-size Pashmina shawl for women out of Cashmere wool, it takes around 3-4 goats’ wool. This is the reason Pashmina shawls are expensive and exclusive. Pashmina wraps are more delicate as compared to sheep wool, but are around 8 times warmer than the same. But at the same time, Pashmina shawls are the most luxurious wraps and have a history of getting ancient royalty spellbound.

Also read: WHICH IS BETTER FLEECE OR CASHMERE?

Vicuna

Do you know what Vicuna is? Vicuna is a South American mammal, which produces the world’s rarest and most luxurious wool. It is even finer and warmer than Cashmere. The fibre is exceptionally delicate and fine. Artisans do not often dye it. Hence it is often in natural colours. At times, damage might occur after dye. Unfortunately, the number of these South American mammals is fast decreasing, and therefore, as a precautionary measure, their shearing too is done within limits.

How warm is Pashmina?

Pashmina shawls and apparel are 8 times warmer than sheep wool or merino. For the same reason, these are premium and hence sold at expensive rates. Not only is Cashmere warm and expensive, but it is also exceptionally graceful to look at, and lightweight and comfortable to carry. On the contrary, merino wraps won't look so beautiful and might feel thick and heavy at times. 

When it comes to softness, Pashmina shawls aren't just warm and cozy, but immensely softer than other types of wool. And even though a number of traders dip cheap shawls in fabric softeners to make them look like Pashmina shawls, the authentic pieces still remain unparalleled.

Although Pashmina wraps and apparel are exceptionally warm, they fail at durability when compared to sheep wool. The latter is sturdy, but Pashmina is delicate and fine. Cashmere shawls suffer wear and tear when used regularly. Nevertheless, this never decreases a tad in the enormous demand it has all over the world, and women love it exactly like they did centuries ago. 

Also read: FINEST CASHMERE IN THE HANDS OF ARTISANS

As the lust and passion for minting quick money grew, original Pashmina shawls began to be replaced with cheap and forfeited quality ones. Hence came the GI Pashmina. It was the purest quality Pashmina shawl, engraved with a stamp of originality and authentication. This helped customers pick the right product, and discard the imitations.

The iconic rendezvous between fine wool and skilful techniques of Kashmiri artisans started centuries ago. It was around the 15th century when handcrafting luxury items from raw wool raised the standards of the locals; they became overnight celebrities. This wool was native to Kashmir, as was its processing. No other country could neither produce wool of such a thin diameter nor process any wool type to make apparel and wraps of such finesse. It was Kashmir that got into exporting its produce. This made Kashmir the talk of the town, all over the world. This wool was Cashmere. Cashmere was processed to make Pashmina shawls. 

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury apparel, wraps and accessories from fine Cashmere. The wool grows on the body of a rare goat, which is found in the Himalayan ranges. Its manual acquisition, cleaning, processing transforms it into the most luxuruous and precious shawls in the world.

It is Pashmina shawls which originated in the 15th century, changing the face of the valley once and for all. The same people, never known to anyone, became the most celebrated artisans. Patrons from all around the world came to see them. 

Pashmina or Cashmere?

Pashmina comes from the Persian word ‘Pashm’, which literally translates to ‘soft gold’. This was the term used to describe the utmostly soft wool which came from the goat. Since the discovery the wool came from a Persian traveller, he used the beauty of his own language to describe the same. Hence the raw wool acquired from the Himalayas was called Pashm. Products handcrafted from Pashm wool are called Pashmina. Artisans crafted Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, Pashmina socks, Pashmina blankets, Pashmina furnishing and upholstery and more. 

In the 18th century, products made from fine Pashm came to the notice of Europeans, and the world at large. These foreign patrons visited the valley in large groups to have a look at this newly discovered Pashmina. They, however, didn't call it Pashmina, but Cashmere (Cashmere being an anglicization of the term Kashmir). Hence Cashmere was, now, the raw wool acquired from the goat. And Pashmina was the art of transforming Cashmere into luxury wraps and apparel. 

There are sources which claim that the difference between Pashmina and Cashmere is the composition. Some argue that Pashmina is a finer version of Cashmere. This is not true. Cashmere is the fine and soft wool. It is cleaned after acquiring it from the goat which grows it. Pashmina is an art, indigenous to the Kashmir valley, which means handcrafting luxury shawls, wraps and apparel from Cashmere wool.

Cashmere and The Himalayas

The goat which grows Cashmere on its body has a number of locations in different parts of the Himalayan ranges. As such, Cashmere is found in India (Ladakh), Nepal, China, Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan, and Pakistan. India accounts for just 1% of the total Cashmere production in the world. 

Acquisition of Cashmere

As mentioned earlier, the least of the world Cashmere production is produced in North India. However, it is the best and the finest quality Cashmere. This Cashmere is from Ladakh, North India, the home to the Changthangi goat. This goat lives on the Changthang plateau of Ladakh. It is situated over 14000 feet above sea level. This plateau is home to Buddhist tribes. The tribe's primary responsibility is to rare sheep and goats. The Cashmere bearing goat is one of their domesticated animals. These goats are locally called Changthangi goats, named after the place. They are also called Cashmere or Pashmina goats due to the growth of fine wool over their bodies. 

The high plateaus of Changthang experience one of the most freezing temperatures in winter. At times, scales fall to -40 degrees C. For this reason, the locals as well as the animals make it a point to protect themselves. The Buddhist monks wear thick coats made from animal skins and fur, whereas the animals have their own protection. The Changthangi goat, too, grows fine wool as an undercoat. The wool is so warm and comfortable that the entire winter, it saves the goat from dying or even a single episode of discomfort. This fine and warm wool grow on its underbelly, neck, behind ears, and other sensitive parts of its body. This is Cashmere. 

Collection of Cashmere

As soon as winter is over, Spring starts. The Cashmere goat starts experiencing several hormonal changes in its body, and the wool starts falling off. Next, as Summer steps in, the goat loses more hair, much of it by rubbing itself against coarse surfaces. Summers are pretty warm in the area, and hence make the goat uncomfortable with the warm wool on its body. Hence it rubs its body against walls, stones, bushes and other nearby areas, losing most of the hair. Some portion left is combed gently off its body by professionals, who use specialized tools and combs to do so. Note that the goats are not hurt or killed during the process and the entire combing is safe and secure. 

Now the goat is free to roam around. This hair grows back as soon as winter is about to begin. Animals do not freeze to death, as claimed by a number of reporters. The falling off and growing back of Cashmere from the body of a Changthangi goat are natural processes

The acquired Cashmere wool from the goats is cleaned first. It is full of waste, dirt, dust, and every contamination that the animals pass through. It is hence cleaned thoroughly by womenfolk and even men of the valley, before packing it into small packets. These packets are sent to Kashmir where processing begins and ends. Even though Ladakh has the world's best quality Cashmere, they lack the proper infrastructure for processing it. Artisans responsible for processing Cashmere are only present in Kashmir.

Processing of Cashmere

Processing of Cashmere starts once it reaches the valley of Kashmir. The packets are opened and fine wool is again washed thoroughly to get rid of any foreign material. Post-cleaning, the wool is dipped in a thick rice powder paste. By doing so, Cashmere wool gains strength and smoothness. It is removed after three days, washed again, and now set for spinning.

Spinning Cashmere is done primarily by the womenfolk of a family. Since making Pashmina shawls is a family affair, different processes are handed over to different members. Womenfolk mount the lumps of threads onto spinning wheels and transform these into the long and fine fibre. The fibre is just 12 to 16 microns and is extremely difficult to handle and manage. It is just the skill and decades-long experience of these women which allows them to work with this wool-like breeze. 

Post-spinning, the fine threads of spun Cashmere are sent to weaving. Men await the fibres, and mount these onto the handloom once received. Two or three men sit alongside the handloom and in 3 to 4 days complete a Pashmina shawl. Fibres of Cashmere get transformed into the fabric. This is the birth of a plain shawl. It is later embroidered, patterned, printed, laced or embellished in whatever design the customer likes.

Fake Pashmina Shawls

As soon as the sales of Pashmina shawls gained impetus, the craftsmen community became one of the richest communities in society. These people were offered foreign tours, where they would be asked to train locals. This fame and affluence were craved by many individuals, who out of greed introduced fake shawls into the market. Fake Pashmina shawls were those which were made by machines. To bear the strain of the machine, pure Cashmere fibre is mixed with silk or nylon, which helps it endure the stress that the machine causes. These shawls were circulated in the markets by several fraudulent and deceitful traders and hence sold to those who wanted pure pieces.

While pure Pashmina shawls remained for a lifetime, these fake shawls couldn’t last 3 years even and withered soon. This caused an uproar and the prestige of the Pashmina industry was whittled away. This led to fewer sales and hence a demoralized artisan community, whose art now lay waste.

Also read: PASHMINA FOR THE POSITIVELY CONSCIOUS - AN ETHICAL STORY

The Geographical Indication - an Initiative to restore the glory of Pashmina shawls

Kashmir Pashmina has been bestowed the Geographical Indicator (GI) in 2008. GI is the stamp used on products that have a particular geographical origin and possess qualities which are there because of that origin. Hence the qualities which qualify a product for GI depend upon the geographic location of its production. A GI mark helps one to protect the product’s use by any third party whose production does not conform to the set standards. 

Kashmiri Pashmina shawl has its roots and origin in Kashmir. Here artisans use age-old techniques and unique processes to handcraft the Pashmina shawl. Hence Kashmiri Pashmina has been registered under the Geographical Indication registration of India.

To identify genuine, original Pashmina shawls, a label has been developed by the Craft Development Institute (CDI) Srinagar. This is the GI label, used for authentication of handspun and handwoven Pashmina. This label is non-imitable and contains a numeric code which can be checked online on their website. If the code matches the one on the website, your shawl is pure. 

Also read: EMPOWERING PASHMINA ARTISANS

Aim of introducing GI label for Pashmina

GI label came into being with an initiative from the Government of India. The main reason for the introduction of the GI label was to save the lost glory of Kashmiri Pashmina. Here are other reasons for introducing the GI tag:

• To specify original and pure Pashmina Shawls and save customers from being cheated with fake ones
• Protect the livelihood of artisans, who lost their jobs and sustenance because of the machines. 
• Sustain and protect local handicrafts, and hence help in flourishing the economy.

Testing for GI is done by the PTQCC department of Craft Development Institute. PTQCC is the Pashmina Testing and Quality Certification Centre, and is a lab managed by the Government of India. Labelling is done in batches, after properly testing shawls one by one. The shawls go through quality control checks using electronic microscopy, and physical and chemical tests before stamping them. The stamp, which is found around one of the corners of the shawl, is patented. One can see 100% Genuine and Registered Pashmina under UV light and green sparkling under laser light. 

Testing Pashmina Shawls for GI

For passing the test to qualify for a GI tag, a Pashmina shawl should have the following features. 

• It should be obtained from Ladakh, and the diameter of the Cashmere fibre used in it should be less than 16 microns
• The shawl should be handspun, and spinning should be done over the traditional Charkha called ‘Yinder’.
• The shawl should be handwoven on a wooden traditional handloom.

Benefits of GI in Kashmir Pashmina 

• Increase in turnover and exports: Since the Geographical Indication was introduced, patrons came back to reach for their favourite art form.
• Premium price for products: Fake products were cheap. Since the introduction of GI, Pashmina began to demand its own deserving price
• Better wages to artisans: Artisans are getting empowered since the pieces they thought were waste are again in great demand.
• Differentiation from fake and imitated goods: The originality of genuine Pashmina shawl came to light, and the GI stamp differentiated purely from fake 
• Brand Identity: The GI stamp made Kashmiri Pashmina a brand. It is now easily recognizable among locals and foreigners.
• Conservation of heritage: Preserving the glory and heritage of this unique art was essential. With the introduction of the GI stamp, now pure Pashmina is identifiable, and hence the legacy is conserved. 

The Geographical Indication is still new to the people of Kashmir and the world. Awareness still needs to be raised about the benefits of GI stamps, and people need to know why a pure Pashmina needs more investment than a fake piece or a machine-made shawl. The promotion of genuine Kashmiri Pashmina is still a challenge, yet fundamental. 

Also read: PURE PASHMINA - MYTHS AND FACTS

Artisans of Kashmir are an integral part of Kashmir's rich handicraft of Pashmina. Living along the meadows of Kashmir, artisans have been nature stricken for years. They have inspired themselves with nature's intricate songs. When the goats in Ladakh are herded by the Changpa tribe for fine wool, the artisans gleam in the beauty of its crafting. Awaiting the finest wool, artisans dance in the breeze of the Vale to mesmerize the fashion world with their high skill of Pashmina. Moreover, the finest wool is procured from the Changhthangi range and crafted in Kashmir. Therefore, the crafting of the finest wool of Cashmere is Pashmina Craft.

The Changpa tribe comb out the finest Cashmere

Changhthanghi is a high-altitude place with severe winters that goes to a minimum of -50°C. The scapes of the place are covered with snow and storms in the winter season. It is the place with the harshest winters. The fauna around and in the Changhthanghi have adapted to the freezing temperature by self-regulating the body temperature in the winter season. Likewise, a rare species of Changra Goats dwell near the feet of Changhthanghi. They are also called Cashmere Goats. Also, medium in size with twisted horns. They have adapted to the temperature by developing an undercoat of fine wool to protect their bodies and deliver warmth to themselves.

Eventually seasons change and the temperature changes. The summer season proves to be moderately hot. Therefore, the goats shed their wool off against trees and rocks around. In addition, the tribesman also combs out manually the excess wool to let them feel the freshness of summer. The wool is called Cashmere. It is the finest Cashmere all over the world with 12 to 16 microns in diameter.

To curate the fine accessories from the fine Cashmere wool, the tufts of wool are taken to the Kashmir Valley. After the tufts of wool reach the valley of Kashmir, the supremely premium Art of Pashmina is commenced. It is a stepwise procedure of curating fine Cashmere accessories.

Crafting of Cashmere begins in Kashmir

The foremost step is cleaning the Cashmere wool. There is a thorough cleaning of the wool to get all sorts of dirt out. After the process of cleaning, the next step is the procedure of Spinning. It begins by giving the local women the Cashmere wool to spin fine Cashmere yarn. The womenfolk of the valley mainly spin Cashmere wool. The process is done on the wooden wheel/charkha called tinder in the local language. Thus, the women artisans meticulously spin the Cashmere wool to the miraculously fine Cashmere yarn.

Afterwards, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the conversion of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively the masterpiece in itself. The eloquently woven Cashmere fabric goes on to further design.

Also read: HOW MANY HOURS ARE REQUIRED FOR WEAVING A PASHMINA SHAWL?

Designs in Pashmina Art

There are several styles crafted in Pashmina Art viz; Cashmere wraps, Cashmere Scarves and Pashmina Shawls. The design of each begins with the weaving process by cutting the Cashmere fabric to adequate lengths. Further, there are versatile designs in Pashmina Art including Embroidered, Patterned, Printed, Ombre, Solid, Kani, Embellished, Reversible, etc. Before the design begins, the Cashmere base is dyed in the Valley with precision and care.

There is the process of Dyeing by the dyer or Rangur in Kashmir to pervade Pashmina Shawls with the tinges of nature. In addition, the Designing begins in Kashmir itself where artisans work manually on each masterpiece with the beautiful intricacies in designs or Naqoosh.

Also read: PURE PASHMINA - MYTHS AND FACTS

Pashmina Craft originated in the 13th century

When a Persian saint was travelling across the globe in the 13th century, the Pashmina Craft began. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the middle east came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. Thus, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvellous wool. Awestruck with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles.

Also, the name Pashmina, derived from the Persian word, pashm, meaning "the soft gold" is exquisite in being. In addition, the exquisite luxury of the Pashmina Shawl is beautified with the high skill of artisans who have worked day and night to unravel the marvels of Pashmina as a Crafting of the finest Cashmere.

Also read: PASHMINA - THE TOKEN OF INGENIOUS CRAFT

Pashmina scarf and silk scarves, both are delicate and gentle and need a lot more care than your other cotton or nylon scarves and accessories. But wing to their feminine demeanour and everlasting grace that they lend you as a wearer, you just can't stop buying them. We all love those silky, comfortable, colourful scarves as women. But with love comes care, and caring for these scarves is a tedious activity. Hence there is a long list of precautions and a step-by-step guide on how to clean Pashmina and silk scarves. And even though we are the dealers of Pashmina only, we still did our little research to provide you with the basic knowledge of silk scarf cleaning as well. Let's get started.

Cleaning Pashmina scarves

Many of us believe that spot cleaning is best for a precious and delicate thing like a Pashmina scarf. But that might not be true if your scarf has been lying in your wardrobes for months together. It needs thorough cleaning now. It might look really clean and fresh, but trust us, there are minute food remains hair strands, and even sweat particles, which are ready to attract deadly moths.

Generally, Pashmina, being the value that it is, is always trusted to dry cleaners and is washed in laundries professionally. But if you don't have such a facility available instantly, you can wash it at home, with lots of precautions though.

Always wash your Pashmina scarf with your hand. Some might suggest washing it in the washing machine with a “hand wash” setting on, but we suggest doing that as a last resort. Use lukewarm to semi-cold water to wash it, and use baby shampoo or a mild conditioner to clean it. There are nowadays a number of Pashmina detergents and shampoos available in the market which help keep this precious asset super soft

After you are done, take the scarf out of the water tub, and don't ever wring or twist it. Gently squeeze the soapy water out of it, and rinse it with lukewarm or cold water. 

Drying a Pashmina scarf

Once you start drying your scarf, you have to be extra careful again, as in washing. Never tumble dry your Pashmina. Never twist or wring your scarf to let go of the excess water. The best way to dry a Pashmina scarf is to lay it flat on a towel, gently roll the towel, and gently press it to absorb the excess water. After some time, you can unroll it. 

After you remove the towel from the scarf, leave it to dry in a flat position. Do not hand your Pashmina scarf, as the weight of water might distort its shape. Keep it away from direct sunlight, radiators or hair dryers. It must air dry naturally.

Storing Pashmina scarves

It's not just washing and drying, but taking care of its storage which makes Pashmina live long. Pashmina can't be left open in your wardrobes like cotton and nylons, They have to be taken extra care of.

First and foremost, clean the shelf where you are planning to store your Pashmina, properly. Note that it must be clean and moisture free. Any amount of dampness will ruin your precious piece. After cleaning it, take care of moth spread. Moths are deadly as far as Pashmina is concerned. Make sure the place will remain moth free. There are plenty of anti-moth papers or naphthalene balls to take care of moth spread. Use these to keep moths away. Replace them once they lose their strength.

Do not store Pashmina scarves in cardboard boxes like you would store your other essentials. Do not put them in plastic bags either, since they might experience dampness there. These types of storage might tamper with the quality and change the colour of your scarf.

The best way to store Pashmina is to wrap these in tissue paper. This helps preserve their natural state. There is no danger of dampness or dust, and your Pashmina lives a long life. 

Also read: IS CASHMERE WARM?

Washing Silk Scarf

Silk too is a long-term investment, and should be cared about carefully. Even Though we might not be the kings with respect to silk, but we consulted our fabric experts before writing this. So here you go:

• Silk should be washed in cold water, and again using a shampoo or mild detergent. If you feel the silk scarf is too dirty, keep it soaked for 4-5 minutes.
• Remove, squeeze and rinse it with cold fresh water.
• Squeeze again to remove excess water, and lay it flat on a towel which absorbs the remaining water
• Lay flat to air dry

After it dries, your scarf will have creases. Iron it using a steamer, or iron it yourself. Keep the iron on low heat, and do not use it directly. Place a thin cotton sheet in between the iron and your scarf, and then begin with the edges. Do not spray silk with water during the ironing process, as silk catches water stains. 

Ta Da! Your scarf is new and fresh.

Also read: PASHMINA BELONGS TO THE CLAN OF ORIGINALITY

As soon as winter starts showing its first signs, the choice of winter apparel begins. Do we wear wool scarves, Cashmere scarves, or fleece? This entirely depends on the specific requirements of women. Do they want comfort or just style? Do they like to wear thick apparel or lightweight clothing? What occasion are they wearing it to? All of these factors combined direct the choice of women and men to buy apparel and wraps. While wool is thicker, Cashmere is fine and lightweight. On the other hand, fleece is an inexpensive option, which is used to make stylish wraps for winter.

Cashmere appears like a gentle embrace from nature itself as the whisper of winter's breath fills the air. Spun from the highlands, its softness seems to carry the warmth of old fires, protecting the soul from the cold. The user is encased in a cocoon of classic elegance, with each thread bearing witness to the mountain goats from which it originates. Cashmere, with its feather-light beauty, is a salve that transforms frosty days into moments of calm elegance and quiet warmth.

A sumptuous promise against the icy cold, cashmere emerges like a whisper of warmth in the quiet of winter when everything is covered in frost. Its threads tell a story of classic comfort; they are as fine as snowflakes but are full of mountain-born tenacity. Its gentleness envelops one in a subdued spell, as though the earth's breath caressed them. Every chill becomes a subtle reminder of the beauty of the season, softened by the tender embrace of nature's finest wool, as cashmere transforms the harshness of winter into a canvas of elegance.

Fleece vs Cashmere

Although both fleece and cashmere are prized for their warmth, they have very different origins and special characteristics. The synthetic material known as fleece is produced via contemporary manufacturing, frequently with the use of polyester or recycled plastic. Its lightweight warmth, moisture-wicking qualities, and ease of maintenance make it a popular choice for casual wear and outdoor sports. Although fleece is readily available and reasonably priced, it lacks cashmere's inherent luxury and delicate softness. Nevertheless, it is a dependable companion against the cold.

Conversely, cashmere is a natural fiber that is mostly found in the mountainous areas of Kashmir and Mongolia and is extracted from the undercoat of cashmere goats. Its fibers are finer than human hair, making it incredibly delicate and giving it a smooth, almost invisible feel against the skin. Cashmere gives a special insulation through its lightweight fibers, producing warmth without bulk, while fleece offers warmth through its thickness. Often linked to high-end clothing and prized for its extensive history of crafting, cashmere is a mark of exclusivity and refinement.

Fleece is essentially a strong, practical fabric intended for daily use, whereas cashmere is an uncommon, handcrafted gem reserved for occasions when both warmth and sophistication are equally required. Cashmere, a reminder that genuine luxury can be found in the best creations of nature, is for people who want to embrace the winter months with classic elegance, while fleece may work well in a tough environment.

Difference between Cashmere and Fleece

The basic difference between Fleece and Cashmere is how the two are sourced. Cashmere is an animal product that comes from the rare Capra Hircus goats found around the Himalayas. On the other hand, fleece is not a natural product. It is a synthetic fabric that is a variant of polyester and hence a plastic derivative!

The main distinction between cashmere and fleece is found in their textures, uses, and places of origin:

Origin of Material:

Cashmere: The velvety undercoat of cashmere goats, which are mostly found in places like Kashmir and Mongolia, yields cashmere, a natural fiber. Because of its scarcity and the time-consuming nature of gathering the tiny fibers, it is a material of luxury.
Fleece: Synthetic materials like polyester or recycled plastic are frequently used to make fleece. It was designed to be lightweight, reasonably priced, and easily maintained while simulating the warmth of wool.

Warmth and Texture:

Cashmere: Cashmere has a velvety feel and is exceptionally soft, light, and warm. It keeps the wearer warm without adding bulk thanks to its superior insulation.
Fleece : Although fleece is cuddly and smooth, its warmth comes from its thickness and capacity to retain heat, which makes it feel less upscale than cashmere. Although it is practical and has moisture-wicking qualities, it lacks the plush feel of cashmere.

Usability and Durability:

Cashmere : Because cashmere is more sensitive, it needs to be handled gently to keep its lifespan and smoothness. It's frequently applied to expensive clothing and accessories that value style.
Fleece : Fleece is made for daily usage, particularly in outdoor activities, and is long-lasting and easily cleaned. Although it is strong and endures well with repeated use, it is not as elegant as cashmere.
In conclusion, fleece is a useful, synthetic alternative made for warmth and durability, whereas cashmere is a high-end natural fiber renowned for its unmatched softness and richness.

Which is Warmer? Cashmere vs Fleece

Cashmere is many times warmer than fleece. Hence on the parameter of warmth, people will definitely choose this fine wool. Conversely, fleece has the property of drying quickly. So if you are planning to go out on a rainy day, fleece will be a better option, as Cashmere takes time to dry. Fleece dries quickly and provides its ‘comparatively less’ warmth again. This property of quick-drying has made fleece ideal to be used in wraps and caps, as these are the outer layers one wears in winter.

On the other hand, it is the excellent insulation property of Cashmere that still keeps its number one on the list. The luxury fine wool traps body heat and hence keeps it warm.

Despite being lighter than fleece, cashmere typically offers better insulation when it comes to warmth. Because of its extreme fineness and inherent insulating qualities, cashmere fibers retain body heat while yet being breathable. Cashmere provides an unparalleled cozy feeling in cold weather thanks to its special balance, which keeps you warm without adding bulk. Its opulent softness enhances its appeal and makes it ideal for chic winter attire that doesn't compromise warmth for comfort.

Even when it's still warm, fleece acts as insulation due to its thickness and ability to hold heat inside its synthetic fibers. It's ideal for outdoor activities because it frequently wicks away moisture and provides good warmth in colder temperatures. However, compared to cashmere, fleece is usually thicker and offers less breathable warmth. Although both materials can provide warmth, cashmere's natural, gentle warmth is usually thought to be superior, especially in terms of comfort and design.

What is Cashmere?

While we guess that Cashmere is a clear winner here, why not discuss more its properties, and know more about this sumptuous wool type. Cashmere is the undercoat of the Capra Hircus goat, which is found in the Himalayan region. The goats grow these fine and super warm coats in winter to survive in a freezing temperature of minus 40 degrees C. The goats are so comfortable and warm that they easily spend more than 3 months in freezing temperatures. The moulting period starts in the Spring season, around May, and the goat starts shedding the wool naturally. Some portion left on its body is gently combed off by the herders using specialized combs and tools. This is Cashmere wool. It is cleaned and sent for processing. 

Mostly found in arid areas such as Tibet, Kashmir, and Mongolia, cashmere is a high-end natural fiber derived from the velvety undercoat of cashmere goats. It is renowned for its remarkable warmth, softness, and light texture. Cashmere clothing is quite popular because of its comfort and elegance. The fibers of cashmere are significantly finer than those of conventional wool, giving it a smooth and velvety feel. Because cashmere's fine undercoat is meticulously combed or sheared during the spring molting season, the fiber is uncommon and precious, and harvesting it is a labor-intensive operation.

Because it is naturally insulating and provides exceptional warmth without being heavy or bulky, cashmere is highly valued. Because of its softness and richness, it is frequently used in expensive apparel items like shawls, scarves, and sweaters. In addition to being perfect for colder areas due to its capacity to retain warmth while yet being breathable, cashmere is a global symbol of luxury and sophistication due to its relationship with sophisticated fashion and classic elegance.

Processing of Cashmere starts with cleaning it and removing any impurities from it. Post this, it is spun to transform lumps of wool into fine threads. These threads are handwoven, and the result is a fine and luxurious Cashmere scarf, shawl, or wrap. 

Cashmere is considered a luxury fabric, and this has been the case for centuries now. It is since the 15th century that Cashmere is considered royal, and is hence the first preference of ancient art and craft admirers. 

Properties of Cashmere

Here are some amazing properties of Cashmere, that lead to it being the first preference of women:

• Dyeing: Cashmere takes any colour gracefully. Its natural colours are black, ash, white, and more neutral shades, but all take dyes well. 
• Finesse: Cashmere is exceptionally fine. One single fibre measures just 12 to 16 microns in diameter. 
• Insulation: Cashmere has high insulation. It traps body heat and keeps the body warm. 
• Lightweight: Owing to fine thread count, Cashmere wraps or scarves are lightweight, and hence preferred more than others. 
• Non-Itchy: Cashmere does not cause itch. Contrary to the itchiness caused by wool, Cashmere is soft and smooth on the skin and doesn't cause allergies (except to highly sensitive skin)
• Durability: Cashmere is less durable when compared to wool or fleece. Since the fibre is extremely fine, it is prone to tears or cuts. Wool is strong, and hence more durable to harsh treatment. 

Benefits of Wearing Cashmere

There are several advantages to wearing cashmere, which makes it a popular option for anyone looking for opulent and comfortable apparel. Its unmatched softness is one of its biggest features. Because cashmere fibers are finer than human hair, they feel soft against the skin and make clothing incredibly comfortable. For garments like sweaters, scarves, and shawls that come into direct touch with the skin, cashmere is the perfect material because of its softness, which offers a level of comfort that synthetic materials simply cannot match.

The exceptional insulating qualities of cashmere are yet another important advantage. Cashmere's unique structure traps heat while being lightweight, providing great warmth without the bulk. Because it efficiently controls body heat, it is appropriate for a range of temperatures and provides comfort in cold and somewhat warm environments. Cashmere is also a naturally breathable fabric that keeps you warm while letting moisture out. This makes it perfect for year-round wear.

Along with its classic style, cashmere adds a sumptuous touch to any ensemble. Its refined appearance and exquisite drape enhance both formal and casual attire, making it a flexible addition to any wardrobe. Additionally, cashmere clothing can last for many years with the right maintenance, making it a wise purchase. Cashmere's softness, warmth, and elegance make it a popular option for people who value comfort and quality in their apparel.

What is Fleece

The purpose of fleece, a synthetic fabric usually composed of polyester, is to replicate the softness and warmth of real wool. Unlike wool or cashmere, which are natural fibers, fleece is made industrially, frequently with recycled polymers like PET (polyethylene terephthalate). The soft, fuzzy texture created by brushing the fabric aids in retaining heat and trapping air. Because it is warm and lightweight, fleece is a popular material for outdoor apparel such as blankets, vests, and jackets.

Fleece is notable for its capacity to drain away moisture, which keeps the wearer dry when exercising or in damp environments. Because fleece quickly evaporates moisture rather than absorbing it like cotton or wool does, it's a great fabric for sportswear, hiking gear, and other outdoor clothing. Additionally, fleece is long-lasting and quick-drying, which makes it simple to maintain and perfect for casual, daily wear.

The accessibility and affordability of fleece is another important characteristic. Fleece is cheaper to make than natural fibers like wool or cashmere because it is a synthetic substance. Because of this, people looking for a cozy, warm cloth without the exorbitant cost of premium fabrics may easily find it and use it. Although fleece is practical and warm, it lacks the soft touch and breathability of natural fibers, making it feel heavier and less breathable than materials like cashmere.

Fleece is a variant of polyester. It is one of the best options that one has in winter since it keeps the body comfortably warm. Here are some properties of Fleece

Properties of Fleece

Some common properties of fleece fabric are:

• Hydrophobic: One of the best qualities of fleece is that it is hydrophobic. Owing to this quality, fleece doesn't hold water for long. It dries quickly, and this quality makes it preferred for rainy seasons.
• Wash and general care: Fleece can be easily washed in a washing machine. Hence it is easier to care for as compared to Cashmere, which needs gentle hand washing, and general care for it too is a task.
• Cruelty: Even though Cashmere is not cruel, yet is an animal product, and hence vegans never wear it. For those, who never like to wear or eat animal products, fleece is perfect, as it is a polyester derivative. 
• Inexpensive: Fleece is easily affordable for all. On the contrary, Cashmere might feel pricey for some, who do not have enough knowledge of the hard work and laborious efforts that go into making it. 
• Less Itchy: As compared to sheep wool, Fleece to is less itchy.
• Lightweight: Fleece to is lightweight, hence being a close competition to Cashmere. 

Also read: THE SUPREMELY CRAFTED CASHMERE

Cons of wearing fleece

There are a number of negative properties pertaining to fleece. For example, if the weather is too windy, fleece doesn't help in keeping one warm. Also, fleece is not recommended for high temperatures, as it is flammable, and can melt. Hence one has to take special care of it on occasions like bonfire camping and avoid going near the bonfire. 

The inability of fleece to breathe in comparison to natural fibers like wool or cashmere is one of its primary drawbacks. Overheating can result from fleece's exceptional ability to retain heat, particularly in mild weather or after intense exercise. Due to its synthetic composition, fleece is not as effective at controlling body temperature as natural textiles, which can occasionally make it uncomfortable to wear for extended periods of time. Furthermore, because fleece is not biodegradable, its manufacture and disposal raise environmental issues, especially when washing releases microplastics into rivers.

Fleece's propensity to produce static electricity and draw dust, hair, and lint is another disadvantage. Because the fabric is synthetic, it is prone to pilling over time, which can detract from its softness and attractiveness. In addition to being extremely flammable, fleece might not be as durable or luxurious as natural fibers, particularly in formal or fashion contexts. Although it's a useful and reasonably priced choice for outdoor gear, people looking for a more elegant or environmentally conscious fabric option may find it less suitable due to its limits in terms of breathability, environmental effect, and aesthetic adaptability.

Based on the discussions above, we see how Cashmere is the better of the two options. It might look pricey, but the meticulous efforts of a hundred artisans very well deserve the costs associated with it. The wool is exceptionally soft, fine, lightweight, warm, and stylish. It has adapted to modern needs, and hence we have printed Cashmere scarves, embroidered Cashmere scarves, animal prints, floral prints, and types of contemporary patterns of these. 

Also read: CASHMERE-THE DAWN OF PASHMINA ART

The pashmina shawl is an accessory of luxury crafted in the Vale of Kashmir. Under the trees of Chinar, the beauty is acknowledged with the breeze of Kashmir. The endless treasure of handicrafts unravels itself to profuse luxury all along the journey. Crafting a Pashmina shawl is an art that is bestowed on the people of Kashmir by a saint from the Middle east in the 13th century.

A saint, Mir Syed Ali Shah Hamdani was traveling from Central Persia to all over the world to preach the holy message. While, he was traveling to Kashmir with his 700 craftsmen, scholars, and teachers, he landed in Ladakh mear a region. He was amazed at the glance of a rare species of Goats. He was fascinated by the softness and warmth of the wool of the goat. Therefore combed out some of the wool and crafted a pair of socks. Also, the warmth and fineness made him exuberant about the wool and he gifted the socks to the ruler of Kashmir. He suggested procuring the wool and crafting it in Kashmir. His craftsmen taught Kashmiri people crafting of fine wool.

Thereby, Pashmina Craft came into existence. Indeed, Pashmina craft is an extensive process including several steps to fully craft a luxury Pashmina Shawl. Therefore, each process takes a definite time period to complete the luxury with utmost grace.

How is Cashmere procured for Pashmina Shawls?

The Changhthanghi mountain in the Ladakh region is at a high altitude. The winters are the coldest there. The temperature goes to minus 20°C. A rare breed of goats dwells in the feet of mountains. The Goats are called Changra Goats. They are also called Cashmere Goats. The goats develop thick wool on their bodies in winter to overcome the cold season. The goats are mainly raised for the production of fine wool. As, in summer, the goats shed wool to feel the air of summer. The wool is manually combed out by the herders of the Changpa tribe who raise the Goats of Changhthanghi. The soft wool is called Cashmere wool.

The cashmere wool of Ladakh is the finest. Although, there are several breeds of Cashmere producing goats. Yet, the finest is the Ladakhi Cashmere. The Ladakhi Cashmere is soft, fine wool. It is 10 to 16 microns in diameter. Also, it is the finest wool with premium purity of nature. Cashmere Wool is crafted further to make luxuriously fine accessories like the Pashmina shawl. The Art of Pashmina prevails for ages in the Valley of Kashmir.

The craft of Pashmina begins

Art of Pashmina begins as soon as the packets of Cashmere wool reach the valley of Kashmir. The tufts of Cashmere wool are cleaned, soaked, and dried to further get the premium Cashmere wool. The Cashmere wool is further moved ahead to the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous process of transforming Cashmere wool into the finest cashmere yarn. Predominantly, womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley perform the meticulous process of Spinning. After the Spinning process, the fine Cashmere yarn is moved to the next extensive process called Weaving.

The Extensive process of weaving a Pashmina Shawl

The process of weaving is the intricate turning of the Cashmere yarn into the finest Cashmere fabric. The warps and wefts are sophistically woven with each other to present the meticulous Cashmere Fabric to the further process of designing. It takes up to 120 hours or 5 days to weave a Pashmina Shawl. Moreover, the weaving is mostly done by menfolk of the valley on the handlooms made of forest wood. Artisans work day and night to weave a complete Pashmina Shawl with their hands to appreciate the quality of handwoven. Also, the artisans weave by using their feet in coordination with their hands. Moreover, the meticulous harmony of aura and artisan creates the fine Cashmere fabric.

Also read: AESTHETIC PASTELS OF EMBROIDERED PASHMINA

Pashmina Shawl is a luxury crafted in Kashmir

Pashmina Shawls are further designed after the process of Weaving. Moreover, the design comprises several styles viz., Embroidery, Patterns, Embellishments, Hues, Prints, Weaving techniques, etc. All the designs are rich and intricate. In addition, the process is manually performed in Kashmir valley. The endless collection of Pashmina Shawls performs well with the beauty of artisans who have a high skill of generations.

Also read: THE SUPREME KANI WEAVE IN PASHMINA ART

Pashmina.com cherish the Pashmina Collection

We, at pashmina.com, cherish our rich collection of Pashmina Shawls crafted in Kashmir Valley. Artisans reveal the high skill of each masterpiece of our collection. Also, the richness and fineness of the Pashmina Shawls unravel the gratuities of craftsmanship. The precision in every detail is up to the mark of authenticity. The premium luxury looks your way with its high-end fashion quotient and graceful appearance. Therefore, the luxury of Pashmina awaits your presence to reveal the essence of being one-of-a-kind. Have one of the masterpieces and relive the journey of Kashmir in the Craft of Pashmina.

Also read: IN KASHMIR VALLEY, PASHMINA ART RESIDES