It was the second half of the 18th century when Europe saw the rise of a new garment. It was a wrap, which was unconditionally soft, warm, and light. The patterns this new wrap hosted were yet to be seen by Europeans; for that matter even those produced by their local artisans. This product was the Kashmiri Shawl. Kashmiri artisans handcrafted it out of raw Cashmere wool. 

The Kashmiri shawl was alluring and pleasing to the eyes. Its quality was simply unmatched. Owing to its qualities, it was used as a status symbol by the royal women of Europe. Among them was the fashion icon of Europe, Empress Josephine, who set it to a timeless fashion after owning hundreds. Later it was Queen Victoria, who further solidified its popularity among the rich, influential, and nobles. 

Due to their popularity, India and the West became partners in the trade of these shawls. Large numbers of Kashmiri shawls traveled all routes to reach Europe. A large number of local European companies, who attempted to copy the design of Kashmiri shawls also flourished. The next six decades, starting from the early 19th century, witnessed an obsessive patronage of the shawl. As a result, the original Kashmiri shawls adapted to local design, and henceforth, much changed in its patterns and looks. 

What is the Kashmiri shawl?

Kashmiri shawls are handmade wraps that women wear around their shoulders. These keep away cold or simply aggrandize an outfit. Some common synonyms of the Kashmiri shawls are: Pashmina shawl (shawls made from Cashmere), paisley shawl (a famous motif), & more. The name of the Kashmiri shawl varies as per the material used, the motifs used the place it is made or the technique with which it is crafted. As far as the material used in Kashmiri shawls is concerned, these can be:

woolen shawls,

Pashmina shawls, and

Shahtoosh shawls.

As far as the weaving technique is concerned, Kani shawls rule the world of textiles. And on the basis of motifs and patterns, Kashmiri shawls are paisley shawls, Jamawar shawls, Jaalidaar shawls, and more. 

The most famous Kashmiri shawls are, however, the Pashmina shawl and the Shahtoosh shawl. Both these shawls come from the down fibre of rare animals, which is the finest and softest. Pashmina shawls come from Pashm, a fleece growing on the body of a Pashmina goat of the Ladakh region. Kashmir is independent of any other nation as far as the production of Pashm wool is concerned. All the produce comes from the goats of Ladakh, who grow just 150 grams a year. 

The wonders of Shahtoosh

On the other hand, Shahtoosh is another category that was once reserved only for the Mughal kings. The fleece for making the Shahtoosh shawl comes from the Tibetan Antelope (chiru). It is the finest in the wool industry. This animal is, however, endangered now due to their low population. Trading in or buying Shahtoosh shawls is forbidden. These are no longer in use, which makes Pashmina shawls the most preferred ones. Nevertheless, neither of these has a substitute, and both have reigned long during their times. 

The Quality of Kashmiri shawls

The demand for Kashmiri shawls always exceeded the supply. This was because of the unmatched quality and weaving techniques that Kashmir had a monopoly in. The high-quality textiles and the unparalleled skill of local artisans made it possible for Kashmir to enjoy the ownership of being the best producer of shawls. Kashmir had geographical advantages, and hence it was now a center of high-quality textile production. 

Distinctive weaving patterns and wonderfully fine wool combine to produce a Kashmiri shawl. As a result of these factors, Europeans were fascinated with the quality of Kashmiri shawls. This resulted in immense demand for these pieces. When the demand was higher than the supply, some traders and manufacturers started making fake and copied shawls. But even these sold out on a large scale. However, these could never compete with the art of the original artists - the Kashmiri shawl makers. Kashmiri artisans had an unmatched skill. Even if one tried to copy, he would fail.

The Rise of the Paisley Motif

The Paisley motif or the Buta as it is locally called, became the most well-known and used motif when it came to Kashmiri shawls. The paisley motif is like a teardrop and has ancient origins. It has been in use since the Mughal period. Since then, however, it has changed its shape many times, owing to the changes in fashion. Before the Europeans made their own version of this motif, Paisley looked like a teardrop. Paisley is the western name of the Buta motif. It is derived from a town in Scotland, called Paisley. This town became the largest producer of imitation Kashmiri shawls featuring the Paisley motif. 

Historians have suggested a number of versions of this motif that was mainly used in Kashmiri shawls. While some claim that the motif is inspired by cypress trees in pre-Islamic Iran (cypress was a significant symbol back then), others suggest it is just a floral design. But Europeans changed the shape of the motif according to their own understanding of its history. Many changes occured in its design to fit its own customer base. 

Till the 1800s, the paisley motif existed on almost all patterned shawls and took the bordering place mostly. But Europeans made it clear that shawls could even be patterned with Paisley motifs all over their base. With the invention of the jacquard loom, it became more possible as the loom could produce patterned shawls easily. 

Kashmiri Shawl before Europeans took over

Kashmir had always been under a number of cultural influences because of its geographical location. I shared borders with Persian civilizations and the Islamic world, Tibet, the Himalayas, and India. Hence it would come under the sway of different cultures and rulers. Each one would contribute one feature or the other to the local handicrafts. As a result, Persian, Hindu, Sikh, British, and other cultures directly influenced Kashmiri culture

As far as the glory and zenith of the Kashmiri shawl are concerned, it was during the reign of Sultan Zain ul Abideen. He ruled from 1420 to 1470. After that when Akbar came to rule in around 1586, the shawl experienced newness; the current rule brought their own innovations into the designs. The Kashmiri shawl has mention in the autobiography of King Akbar - Ain I Akbari - written by Abu Fazl. The book acknowledges the Emperor's love and reverence for Kashmir shawls, especially for Shahtoosh shawls. 

Shahtoosh and Pashmina Kashmiri Shawls

Shahtoosh shawls experienced a different level of reverence and adoration from kings and commoners. It was called the ‘ring shawl’, as it could be passed through a finger ring. Shahtoosh shawls were a luxury item and signified rank and status. These were also given to diplomats as gifts, as well as to nobles as a mark of high service, great achievement, or simply a royal favour (khilat). The receiver would automatically become a subordinate, and the giver an autonomous power, in some cases. However, a large number of researchers believe that it wasn't Shahtoosh, but Pashmina shawls that were presented as khilat. The culture of gifting Pashmina shawl remained even after the Mughal rule diminished. 

Early Europeans, who visited the valley, were much confused about the culture of Khilat. But as they spent time with the locals, they understood how graceful of a tradition it was. Soon they started doing the same with their counterparts. As a result, by the 18th century, Kashmiri shawls spread their wings over larger areas, not just Kashmir or India. It was a well-established handicraft of Kashmir - luxurious and high style. Its makers were considered as one of the most skilled communities on earth. 

Kashmiri shawl arrives in Europe

The most common belief of scholars is that the Kashmiri shawl was introduced in Europe by Napoleon when he was on a campaign in 1789-1801. It was he who purchased a Kashmiri shawl (Kani shawl), and on his return to France. He then presented the same to his wife. Being a style icon, and world-famous for her classic taste, Josephine was able to set the shawls to a timeless fashion. She owned over a hundred shawls and made them the most iconic accessory of those times. 

However, a large number of researchers do not agree with this. They argue that Kashmiri shawls in Europe preceded this story and that Napoleon and Josephine already knew about Kashmiri shawls. It might have been the East India company that introduced Kashmiri shawls in Europe. The officials of the East India Company would have sent some shawls to their hometowns as gifts back in the 1700s, and that would have been the start of it. Officials might have experienced the luxurious nature of the shawl and gifted it to their wives while returning back to their countries.

As a result, a large number of regions in Europe started replicating the shawls. Surprisingly, even replicated shawls picked up the pace. This was especially with the less privileged women who couldn't afford the high-priced original shawls. Nevertheless, original Kashmiri shawls were mostly worn by high society women, rich and affluent nobles, and wives of ruling kings and Emperors. 

The Paisley Motif

A major symbol in the Kashmiri shawls which were popular in Europe was the Paisley motif, locally called Buta. Many Europeans believed that the Kashmiri shawl is the Buta shawl, and used these two terms synonymously. Nevertheless, the quality of the original Kashmiri shawl was never matched. This was primarily because of the absence of Pashm and the unmatched skill of Kashmiri artisans. For this reason, the British became desperate to acquire the Pashm-producing goats. So, as a part of the treaty of Amritsar, the victorious Britishers forced the Sikh empire to pay an annual tribute of 12 shawl goats. 

An episode like this had taken place some time back. Decades prior to this episode, Willian Moorcroft (an English explorer) traveled to Kashmir and decided to sneak 50 goats to England. Unfortunately for them, just 25 male goats made it to England. But these goats could not produce fine Pashm owing to the difference in climatic conditions of England. Hence Kashmir retained its monopoly of producing the finest Pashmina shawls; the world had to compromise on being the buyers rather than producers. 

The popularity of the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl endangered the shawls all around the world. The demand rose so much that around the 1800s, Kashmiri artisans produced new designs and techniques that were directly influenced by Europeans. Administrators came from France and took charge of the industry, thus introducing a large number of French patterns. This was done to fulfill the tastes of locals as well as European customers 

The Fall of the Shawl

Around the 1870s, several factors led to the decline of the Kashmiri shawl as well as its western copies. A large number of fashionable capes and jackets took over. This decreased the humongous demand for the shawl day by day. Another reason for the decline of the shawl was the Franco-Prussian war. The war led to a disruption in trade between Europe and the world, including Kashmir. Kashmir also experienced a famine in the 1870s which led to an economic crisis. This made the artisans in Kashmir quite weak, and some even died as a result.

This led to a severe drop in production and hence the sales of Kashmiri shawls. As a result, Europeans embraced machine-made shawls. The Kashmiri shawl industry continued dipping, and never really recovered from this production famine. It is the recent times that the shawl industry has gained impetus again. It is now that workers started mass production of original Kashmiri shawls. 

Also read: HOW CAN YOU TELL IF A CASHMERE IS REAL?

Concluding

The story of Kashmiri shawls shows the changes it went through. From being a luxury piece of wrap of incomparable quality, the shawl became an everyday accessory for the middle class. Some believe it was industrialization that rendered this precious fabric a common wrap that everyone could use regularly. What was once an elite Mughal possession could now be seen in every nook and corner of London, New York, and Paris. Moreover, it cost them a little more than any affordable accessory.

Also read: 20 MOST ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT PASHMINA AND CASHMERE

So many questions about Cashmere and Pashmina arise, and as experts in the fabric, customers ask us the following questions all the time. Hence we made a list of the most popular 10 questions about Cashmere and Pashmina and answered them for you.

FAQS ABOUT PASHMINA

Difference between Cashmere and Pashmina

The most asked question is perhaps about the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina. Sometimes the two terms are used interchangeably. While some say that Cashmere is the low-quality Pashmina, others argue that Pashmina is the best quality Cashmere, while others use the two terms for one another. But the actual definition is not known to the masses. 

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury shawls, scarves, and wraps from Cashmere. Cashmere is the fine animal hair growing on the body of the Himalayan Capra Hircus. Infact, it is this hair that is processed manually for months and even years together, to bring into existence  Pashmina shawls. 

What is GI Pashmina?

It was the 15th century when Pashmina was discovered for the first time. For the first centuries, it was only the local Mughal royalty who enjoyed its warmth and sumptuous essence. But during the 18th century, these shawls spread all over the world. These were the most popular accessories around the world. With this popularity came the deceitful hands of a few traders. These traders crafted Pashmina only with pure Cashmere, but a mix of Cashmere and silk or nylon. Some sold wool shawls and claimed those to be made from Cashmere. 

To stop these dishonest practices, the government introduced the Geographical Indication (GI). It is a mark of purity on a Pashmina shawl. A GI-marked Pashmina shawl indicates that the shawl is made from pure Cashmere which has been handspun, hand woven from the finest Cashmere of Ladakhi goat 

How to Wash Pashmina?

Because Pashmina shawls are immensely delicate and gentle, their washing and cleaning are a challenge. But it is not impossible to wash these shawls at home. What one needs to do is have a wash tub, Pashmina shampoo, and lukewarm water. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and pour Pashmina shampoo into it. Soak the shawl in this mixture for 30 minutes. Rinse it carefully after 30 minutes and dry it (no tumble drying). 

For drying, sandwich the shawl between two clean and dry towels and roll and layers together. This gets rid of extra water. Next, place the shawl on another clean and flat surface and let it air dry for a few days till it's completely dry.

How to identify real Pashmina shawls?

If you are going to purchase a new Pashmina shawl, here is how to identify the real one. Firstly, look for the GI tag around the corners of your shawl. A Pashmina shawl with the GI tag is the safest buy. GI tag is an authentication tag that indicates the purity and originality of Kashmiri Pashmina. 

If you already own one and want to test if the same is pure or not, there are a number of tests. The first one is a burn test; you burn a fringe from a shawl, and if it gives a pungent natural hair-burning smell it is original. Also, if the fringe turns matte after burning, the shawl is original. The second test is the irregular weave test, where you hold the shawl against a light source and closely watch its weave. If the weave is irregular, the shawl is pure, as an irregular weave means the shawl has been manually processed, and no machines have been used.

The third test is the production of status electricity in which nylon and synthetic fibres produce a lot if rubbed against themselves. If you rub your shawl and it produces status electricity, drop it then and there. One more test is checking the price. Pashmina shawls are expensive, and if you find the price of a shawl “too cheap to be Pashmina'', let it go. 

Where does Pashmina come from?

Pashmina comes from Kashmir. It is the Ladakh region of this union territory that houses a rare goat species called the Changthangi goat, this goat grows fine hair on its body in the winter season, as a means to survive. This hair is lost in the moulting month of Spring, and herders collect the same. Some hair left on the body of the goat is gently combed off using specialist combs and tools. The wool is cleaned, packed, and sent to Kashmir for processing. 

In Kashmir, skillful artisans clean, spin and hand weave the wool. Thus comes into existence the world-famous luxury Pashmina shawls, scarves, wraps, and large fabrics. 

How to wear Pashmina?

There are numerous styles by which you can wear a Pashmina shawl. While traditional styles are more of those where the shawls are spread all over the apparel to flaunt the embroidery patterns or the beautiful colours, the modish versions are more creative and unique. 

• Pashmina shawls are soft, so you can wrap them around your neck, and be prepared for casual occasions. This style gives you warmth as well as oomph. 
• Another way is to drape it around the shoulders and cinch it at the waist with the help of a belt. 
• You can also let your shawl drape from one shoulder so that it remains spread and open for the observers to admire. 
• Cover your front with the entire width of the shawl and make a knot at the back. This recently discovered style looks amazing with backless dresses. 

Also read: HOW TO WEAR A PASHMINA SHAWL ELEGANTLY?

How to store Pashmina shawls?

It is always said that the way you store your Pashmina shawl this season will dictate its condition in the next. This shows how cautious the storage of these shawls is.

For storing Pashmina shawls, one has to look for a clean and dry place, most probably a shelf of your wardrobe, where no direct sunlight falls. Next, the shawl should be wrapped in a muslin cloth and not plastic bags, which tend to create moisture, and hence be a breeding place for moths. Place the shawl safely, and if possible place mothballs in the wardrobe, away from the shawl, and not too close to it. 

Are Pashmina shawls warm?

Pashmina shawls are 8 times warmer than sheep wool. Owing to this quality, these shawls are preferred over merino wool wraps. Pashmina shawls are also lightweight and fine, and even then, provide sumptuous and pleasant warmth. 

Apart from being warm, Pashmina shawls are breathable. Hence one would never feel suffocated in Pashmina, as these are super comfortable for every occasion. 

Are goats killed for Pashmina?

No, goats are not killed when the herders acquire their hair. After all, these goats are the only means of survival for the herders. 

Pashmina goats are domestic animals. And hence do not need to be forced to give off their wool. The wool is anyway lost in the moulting period, and just some portion is left on the body of the animal. This extra hair is gently combed off using specialized combs. Moreover, the goats grow the wool back before winter arrives. It is just the winter season when they need hair on their bodies and not the summer.

Is Pashmina expensive?

Owing to manual processing and the painstaking care for the animal, Pashmina stands on the most expensive side of the price scale. So much so that a shawl might cost you thousands of dollars! But as we learn and understand the making of Pashmina shawls, we believe the prices are absolutely well deserved. 

Be it rearing the animal in -40 degrees C, or the acquisition of its hair, which takes days together, the manual spinning of a gossamer fine thread, or the days-long weaving process, Pashmina is hard work personified. If post-completion, shawls are to be embroidered, then it again takes years to hand embroider shawls profusely. Thus every step needs cautious efforts and fairly difficult conditions to give rise to a single shawl.

FAQS ABOUT CASHMERE

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the fine wool that grows on the body of Capra Hircus/Changthangi goats. These goats are found in the Himalayan range, where they survive harsh cold temperatures and as defense grow fine hair. This hair is soft and exceptionally warm. It is manually combed off their bodies and processed into luxury shawls, scarves, sweaters, blankets, and furnishing accessories. This is Cashmere wool and is considered one of the most expensive wools in the world right now.

Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere comes from the body of the Capra Hircus goat. This species of the goat is found in the Himalayas region. As such countries like India, Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, China, Mongolia, etc, are the producers of Cashmere. The best Cashmere comes from Ladakh, North India, where the Changthangi goat grows it. Cashmere is gently combed off the bodies of these goats and is later processed to handcraft shawls, wraps, scarves, and other accessories. 

Also read: THE TRAIL OF INDIA’S CASHMERE GOAT MEN

Are Cashmere and Pashmina the same?

Cashmere is the fine wool that grows on the body of the Capra Hircus goat. The art of handcrafting luxury shawls and scarves from this fine cashmere wool is called Pashmina art. Pashmina is a term local to Kashmir, where a Persian saint was the first one to discover Cashmere wool. Hence he gave Cashmere wool a Persian name - Pashm - which literally translates to ‘soft gold’. From Pashm comes Pashmina, which is referred to as the art of transforming Pashm (Cashmere) into luxury items. Pashmina shawls from Kashmir are world-famous and have a rich history of being cherished by the European royalty

Can Cashmere wraps be washed?

Yes. Cashmere can be easily washed, albeit with a lot of precautions. Firstly, one has to invest in a good quality Cashmere shampoo. Then pour this shampoo in lukewarm water and soak Cashmere wraps in this concoction. Post 30 minutes, rinse the wrap with cold water by squeezing it between two hands, till the water runs clear. This is how one can properly wash Cashmere wraps at home. 

Cashmere just needs gentle treatment. One should make sure not to treat these with harsh detergents. One should also not rinse or wash it with harsh movements and be gentle with its handling.

Is Cashmere sustainable?

Yes. Cashmere is sustainable. And, here are some reasons why:

• Cashmere is manually acquired from the Cashmere goat which grows it in winter to survive low temperatures in the Himalayas. It is this hair that starts falling in its moulting period, with some portion remaining on its body. It is gently combed off, with no harm to the animal. Hence, the acquisition is ethical. 
• Processing of Cashmere does not employ any machine or power loom. The entire process is manual.
• Cashmere processing employs underprivileged artisans, who solely depend on it for survival. Hence, giving back to society is what Cashmere does. 

How do I care for my Cashmere wrap?

Cashmere needs care. And when we say care, we mean numerous precautions that have to be remembered once. It is not a very difficult task. 

Cashmere care starts once you buy it. Always invest in pure Cashmere. When wearing Cashmere, take care of the friction it gets. More friction will lead to piling. 

Washing Cashmere is time-consuming, as machine washing is not recommended for it. Cashmere should be washed manually by soaking it in a Cashmere shampoo and lukewarm water mixture. It should later be rinsed carefully and air-dried. Tumble drying will lead to shrinking. 

Storage of Cashmere needs care and attention. Cashmere wraps should be wrapped in a muslin cloth and stored in a clean and dry place. 

Does Cashmere pill?

Yes, it does. Cashmere is animal hair. Cashmere wraps are made from the hair of the Capra Hircus. Being natural, it is prone to pilling on regular use, and as a result of friction. If your Cashmere wrap is not pilling, then it is not pure. 

However, pilling can be undone by using Cashmere combs, fabric shavers, or lint rollers. 

Which are the major producers of Cashmere in the World?

The main producers of cashmere wool are China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Nepal, Iran, India, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan, and other Central Asian Republics. China and Mongolia are the major producers, and both produce over 80% of the total production. The best quality Cashmere comes from Ladakh (North India). 

Is Cashmere expensive?

Yes. Compared to its counterparts or other types of wool, Cashmere is expensive. Some profusely patterned shawls can cost thousands of dollars. The high prices of Cashmere owe to their super softness, exceptional warmth, and the manual efforts of artisans who work for years together to craft a single wrap. 

Is Cashmere wool?

Wool grows on sheep only. Cashmere is goat hair. It grows on Capra Hircus goats. Hair and wool are two different types of fleece. 

Also read: DO VEGANS WEAR CASHMERE SCARF?

Perhaps if there is a synonym for luxury, it is undoubtedly Cashmere. Soft like silk to the touch, warm and pleasant like the early summer days, and elegant like no other wearable, Cashmere is one such fabric that is sure to turn heads in whichever form, colour, or pattern it is. Manually acquired threads get handwoven to make luxury apparel and wrap accessories, and these are treasured and held dear by patrons alike. It is the painstaking efforts of hundreds of skilful artisans that go into making every single Cashmere scarf or wrap. In ancient times, only the kings, queens, nobles, and affluent population could afford Cashmere. Cashmere wraps would be given by nation heads to each other as a mark of good relations between dynasties. Hence Cashmere wasn't just a piece of fabric. It was a heritage souvenir that held a high stature in the eyes of the masses.

The love for Cashmere and the invention of fakes

For these reasons, Cashmere has always been the first priority of those who are rooted in their traditions. The luxury fibre is also enshrined by those with a classic taste in fashion, who are inclined towards timeless and sophisticated styling. And since the time when Cashmere shifted from conventional styles to contemporary patterns, it's not just art patrons, but fast fashion followers who would love to have a piece of it. The demand for Cashmere went up high, just to see a slight downfall in the same.

Since Cashmere was a luxury and earned its traders huge amounts of money, it got imitated in a number of ways. Several traders grew greedy with time and planned to sell fake Cashmere fabric. This fake fabric wasn't as luxurious. In fact, the new Cashmere fabric wasn't anywhere close to the original one. New Cashmere scarves were found to be less warm and rough to the touch. Or else, these wouldn't last after a few years. This created a sense of insecurity in the common mass, as customers felt deceived. This was because their newly purchased, highly invested shawls, were nowhere close to the original art form. 

Why check a Cashmere scarf for purity?

When traders saw a rising demand for Cashmere wraps and scarves, they introduced mechanisation into the trade. Now Cashmere fibre could be processed by machines, and one wrap which took days to prepare was now ready in minutes. But how would a fine fibre as Cashmere survive machine strain? Traders added artificial strengthening fibre like silk, nylon and others to Cashmere, so that it could pass through machines easily. This type of Cashmere wasn't pure and caused the downfall of the industry. True patrons were victims of deceit by sellers, and their Cashmere scarves wouldn't last even a year due to contamination, so they quit buying and wearing Cashmere. Hence the industry took a turn towards decay.

As soon as their efforts seemed to be getting wasted, the supporters of pure Cashmere brought to light a number of tests which could be done on Cashmere, to know if they are pure or not.

Yes! Your Cashmere scarf can be impure. In fact, that might be the reason it is not as warm, as smooth, as comfy and stylish as you thought it would be. You might have invested a lot of money, energy and time to make this purchase, but still, your newly purchased piece might disappoint you. 

How is fake Cashmere made?

Fake Cashmere scarves are simply those which do not contain 100% pure Cashmere. There are many categories of fake scarves. Here is a list of them all

• The first category is Sheep wool scarves, which are, at times, used as Cashmere scarves. These are treated with chemicals which make them soft and smooth like Cashmere. This treatment decreases their life as well as shows their real face after a few washes. 
• Another category of fake Cashmere is those scarves or simply the fabric in which, along with Cashmere threads, a strengthening fibre is mixed. This category needs strengthening fibre as it has to be passed through a machine. Hence, nylon, polyester or silk is mixed with this fibre so that it is able to bear the strain of the machine (power loom in this case) used to weave. 

How is a real Cashmere Scarf made?

The making has two phases. One is the Procurement and other is the Crafting. It is known that at high altitudes, the temperature lowers to the minimum. The winters are the harshest in this region of Changhthanghi. Therefore, the Changra Goats naturally cover their bodies with thick wool to combat the harsh winters. All along the winters, the thick wool reserves the heat beneath their bodies giving them the warmth of nature. On the seasonal change in climate, the goats naturally shed off the wool with the help of coarse rocks and trees. To overcome the heat of summer, they eventually shed off the thick wool mostly from their bellies, neck region, and behind the ears. In addition, the herders also comb out the wool manually. The soft wool is Cashmere wool.

The Crafting begins in the Valley of Kashmir. After combing out the Cashmere wool, it is cleaned from the excess dust and filled in the packets to transfer to the valley of Kashmir. The Cashmere wool is sorted and undergoes several procedures in the valley itself. The cleaning, drying, and soaking make the Cashmere wool vividly clean. Afterwards, the Cashmere wool is translated to the finest fibres by the process of spinning. The yarn of fineness is transferred to the handlooms in the valley to weave the yarn into several styles of accessories. The whole process of spinning and weaving the finest Cashmere is called the Art of Pashmina. Moving along the art of Pashmina, several other processes like dyeing, printing, interweaving, and embroidering the Cashmere cater to the exclusive collection of Cashmere Scarves.

Is my Cashmere scarf Real?

To check if your Cashmere is real, here is a list of 5 tests you can carry out to check the same.

The Burn Test

The burn test is one of the most convenient tests that one can conduct at home. All one has to do is find a safe place to execute the same. One needs a matchstick or lighter, and the Cashmere product needs to be tested. 

To start the burn test, take a few fringes of your Cashmere scarf and burn them. If the smell is like that of burnt hair, your Cashmere is pure. This is because Cashmere is a natural fibre and will give off a pungent burning smell. In addition to the smell, the burnt part should feel matte and should reduce to a powdery substance. 

Uneven Weave of a Cashmere Scarf

Another easy experiment that one can conduct at home is checking the weave of a scarf. Noticing closely the weave of a scarf one might feel that pure Cashmere is flawed. But when comes to know about the beautiful reality of those irregular weaves, he truly falls in love with the masterpiece he has owned for a long time.

Perform this experiment at home. Hold the Cashmere scarf against light and notice the weave carefully. If the weave is uneven and irregular, your scarf might be pure. The uneven weave is a sign of being handcrafted. It is just machines that can weave scarves in regular patterns and in symmetry. Handmade will always leave a graceful flaw, which will tell the story of its making and being.  

Is your Cashmere glowing?

We often fall for fabrics which have an innate sheen on the surface. Such fabrics look graceful as well as extravagant on wearing. But is it true for Cashmere too? Is a seemingly polished Cashmere real or simply a gimmick to attract those who have less knowledge about the same? 

Well, the bad news is that there are chances that this gleaming is a sign of your scarf being fake. Too much shine definitely means that there is an amalgam of a foreign fibre along with your Cashmere scarf. There might be traces of silk or nylon in your Cashmere scarf that are forcing it to have a satiny glow. But this is a deceptive trick. Cashmere has to be matte. 

Does your Cashmere pill?

Who doesn't hate the mere sight of bobbles on a fabric? How shabby and withered do the fabrics look when the tiny woollen balls occupy their upper surface? Bobbles look so bad that there are a large number of tools in the market that help remove the bobbles and make your favourite shawls, sweaters and outfits smooth and clean once again. But is this the case with Cashmere? Does Cashmere pill? Is Cashmere with pilling real or fake?

Surprisingly Pure Cashmere scarves do pill. This is because these are made from natural fibres, and natural fibres always pill. If your Cashmere hasn't done so for years together, there might be nylon or silk mixed with it. Natural fibres do have a tendency to pill and with time they will do so. One can simply use tools from the market to remove these bobbles and make their PURE Cashmere scarves new again. 

The Rub Test

The easiest way to find out if your Cashmere is pure or not is by rubbing it. Take one of the ends of your Cashmere product and simply rub it with your fingers. The logic behind it is so simple. Fake, polyester adultered fabric will assemble status electricity when one rubs it. So if you rub your Cashmere scarf and it produces a tiny little spark or you hear a sound of a spark being lit, there are high chances that some polyester has been mixed with the scarf. In other words, your Cashmere scarf is not pure.

Look for the diameter of the fibre

If you have a testing lab nearby, then you are the luckiest when it comes to Cashmere testing. Lab testing is the best way to test Cashmere when looking to check the originality of a Cashmere shawl/scarf. Original Cashmere has a 12 -16 micron count when it comes to thickness. Over 16 micron-count will make a shawl thick and rough. The low micron count makes Cashmere scarves and shawls light as well as immensely warm. Hence one should visit a lab if located nearby.

Is your scarf itchy?

Often users complain about the purchase of Cashmere which was too itchy to wear. They said that suddenly they had rashes on their neck and shoulders, wherever the scarf touched their bare skin. Is this the case with Cashmere? If yes, why would one invest thousands? 

Pure Cashmere is soft and smooth. It never causes any allergic reaction to the skin. This is because Pashmina is hypoallergenic, and its loose fibres do not stick out of the base. The texture is too smooth to itch.

Warning: However, if you are already allergic to natural fibres, such as wool or silk, then there are high chances that Cashmere too will make you itchy. You can either add a lining of any synthetic fabric to it or avoid wearing it over bare skin. 

Buying a New Cashmere

Who doesn't want to buy Cashmere? Women, since the 18th century, have been totally obsessed with Cashmere scarves. It was Empress Josephine who set Cashmere scarves to timeless fashion, and since then, women, with a high fashion sense have never looked back. Even now, a large portion of women, who are true patrons of this particular art form, prefer Cashmere to anything else in the world. 

However, if you are purchasing a new Cashmere scarf, you need to be extra careful, so as to protect yourself from being deceived. Here are a few tips to keep in mind.

Check GI tag

To preserve the centuries-old art of handcrafting pure Cashmere, the Government of India (Under WTO) has established a quality check for authentic Cashmere that will identify products made from fibre of Changthangi goat. A geographical Indication (GI) Label on Cashmere is a US patent stamp on the original Cashmere fabric. If you are buying a scarf it contains the GI stamp, it is 100% pure and authentic.

To qualify for a Geographical Indication (GI), a Cashmere scarf/shawl or simply fabric needs to quality three criteria:

How to spot a GI Cashmere?

• Cashmere fibre needs to be hand spun if it needs to fall under the GI purity standards. Hand spinning involves transforming lumps of raw Cashmere wool into the fine fibre. This is done manually by womenfolk and it needs immense hard work and patience. But manually processing raw Cashmere makes it even more fine and high quality. Manually spun fibre is just 12 to 14 microns in thickness.
• Cashmere also needs to be hand woven. Hand-weaving Cashmere wraps and scarves take a few days or months, but manual weaving, with traditional handloom, makes Cashmere fabric the luxury that it is. A hand-woven Cashmere shawl or scarf, or outfit made from the same is the actual luxury that people look for. And that is why handmade Cashmere is the real GI Cashmere that is 100% real. 
• The Cashmere fibre should be under 16 microns. For a Cashmere shawl/scarf that has to be qualified to be a GI product, its fibre should be under 16-micron thickness. When the fibre is under 16-micron thickness, it naturally makes the scarf lightweight and flimsy.

The GI certification or labelling is done by Pashmina Testing & Quality Certification Centre (PTQCC), Craft Development Institute (CDI).  This lab is owned and managed by the GOI (Government of India). Labelling is done carefully, after proper testing & technical examination of all Cashmere wraps individually. 

Certificate of Authenticity

If your seller is able to produce a certificate of authenticity with the scarf that he is selling you, then the wrap is pure. Generally, shawls or scarves are tested in batches, and a single certificate is given for a large number of shawls. This is the certificate that the seller of shawls should be able to produce. If he is not, there is a high chance that he is selling you fake pieces. 

Whether you already own a Cashmere scarf or you are planning to purchase a new one, always look for the reputation of the seller. Be careful about who you buy from. Check the seller's authenticity. See his customers. You are buying a treasure. Never compromise on anything. Don't let anyone deceive you in the name of pure Cashmere. Cashmere is an investment of a lifetime. Pure Cashmere will stay for more than 25 years. It ages gracefully and acquires an heirloom status with time.

Disadvantages of owning a fake cashmere scarf

When it comes to the admirers of original Cashmere making art (the art of Pashmina), they are choosy whilst they make a purchase. But for some, buying Cashmere isn't a big deal. Even if their Cashmere scarves or shawls prove to be fake, they don't care. The only advantage that fake scarves have over original scarves is the price. And why not. If you are adding 50% nylon to 50% Cashmere, why would you even sell it for a huge price? Or if you're selling sheep wool as Cashmere, why would it cost thousands of dollars? So should everyone pick a fake Cashmere and ditch the original art?

Even though fake Cashmere might feel like a safe bet when it comes to price, it might be one of the biggest mistakes that the wearer makes. Here are the drawbacks that a fake Cashmere scarf will have when compared to an original piece. 

Why not buy a fake Cashmere scarf?

• Fake Cashmere will never feel like Cashmere. The feeling of real Cashmere is luxurious and a person naturally experiences an extravagant touch. Cashmere is handmade, and handmade goods are always different to touch. This is the case with Cashmere, and it feels exceptionally soft on the skin. Original Cashmere never causes any allergies because of a buttery smooth touch, but a fake Cashmere shawl or scarf will feel rough if there is sheep wool in it, or its quality will deteriorate after a few washes. 
• Fake Cashmere will never be warm or will be moderately warm. Some might even feel suffocating, unlike the original Cashmere. Real and pure Cashmere shawls and scarves will feel pleasantly warm, and warm enough to ditch heavy jackets and sweaters. With time, these fake pieces will lose their strength and stop providing any sort of warmth and one will have to discard them or use them for any other purpose.
• Fake Cashmere will never last as long as original Cashmere will. Original Cashmere is believed to last for over 20 years without losing a tad in its grace and heirloom looks. But a fake Cashmere definitely will prove to be a fabricated piece when it loses its looks just 2 to 3 years down the line. 
• Fake Cashmere will never carry a graceful look as an original one will. Pure Cashmere wraps or scarves look like an heirloom pieces, as if straight out of an ancient Mughal court. But fake pieces will look pretty for a few months. Especially after the first wash, fake pieces deteriorate like anything. Moreover, if you want to gift Cashmere to your loved ones, then you definitely will have to choose an original Cashmere. If the gifted piece gets damaged, it might cause remorse later.

Why should I invest in a pure Cashmere scarf?

One might ask the question, “Why should I buy real Cashmere? A large number of women buy cheap Cashmere at much less prices, and then claim that this fake piece is the same as the original one. This is absolutely false. There are many differences between pure and fake Cashmere. Here are some beautiful qualities of pure, original Cashmere that make it worth buying. 

Also read: IS MERINO WOOL BETTER THAN CASHMERE?

Why buy real Cashmere?

• Pure Cashmere looks unparalleled. Its looks communicate to the onlooker and the wearer that the piece has been picked up straight from a painting. It looks graceful, elegant and evidently luxurious. This is exactly the reason why European royals as well as Indian nobles were allured by the same and wanted to own at least one. 
• Pure Cashmere keeps one warm as the summer sun does. Shawls and scarves made from real Cashmere keep one warm enough to stop using the heavier and tucker jackets and cardigans in winter and fall. Just one Cashmere shawl or sweater keeps other layers away. This is the reason why Europeans were the first ones to prefer Cashmere over anything else, as the temperatures of most of the countries in Europe demanded warmer accessories. 
• Real Cashmere lasts for an entire lifetime. There are women who have had shawls made from real Cashmere over 20 years of age. And when asked if these shawls were withered, the women claimed that the shawls got newer as much as they used them. Real Cashmere shawls or wraps acquire an heirloom look as they get older. 
• Real Cashmere shawls or scarves are handmade. These are prepared by underprivileged artisans who work their hearts and soul, for months or years together to conjure a single piece. Hence, encouraging them, as well as this sustainable model of handcrafts is a responsible step. 
• Real Cashmere might be pricey, but it gives one a sense of luxury. Wearing real Cashmere is like pampering oneself, in the way that one looks and feels extravagant. Whether you wear Cashmere scarves to a regular office, or to lavish weddings and events, it makes you look really graceful and sophisticated. 

Our Bit for Pashmina

If it wasn't for fake Cashmere shawls and scarves, real Cashmere would never have suffered. But because fake shawls created confusion and distrust amongst the general masses, real Cashmere suffered, even though it was an asset. Hence it is more or less an obligation, especially for the patron of Cashmere, to look for real Cashmere. We need to put in our best efforts to look for real Cashmere to reap the benefits of the same. In addition, we as a platform for Pashmina have revived the essence of Pashmina to its core to make you cherish every dime of the Pashmina Accessories.

Also read: 8 REASONS TO BUY A CASHMERE SCARF NOW!

This season’s winter collection will already be out. All the colours, cool and warm will have filled the shops with their mirthful presence, looking absolutely breathtaking. And there is something for which celebrities and commoners will be looking in every nook and corner. These are the world-famous, luxury Cashmere scarves. If you haven't ever experienced the luxury of wearing a Cashmere scarf, you will not be able to understand the love and reverence women have for it. Hence we gathered from around the world 10 wonderful reasons why every woman should own at least one Cashmere scarf in her life.

Cashmere has unparalleled warmth that no other fabric can beat

 Did you know? Cashmere is 8 times warmer than ordinary sheep wool. The fibre is procured from Ladakh, where the rare Cashmere Ladakhi goat grows it as an undercoat to fight a freezing temperature of minus 40 degrees. The super soft fibre is warm enough to help them survive these harsh winter conditions. When the same wool is processed to produce Cashmere scarves, the latter are cozy and warm, and many women claim that they do not need any sweater or jacket when they wear these ethereal beauties.  

Cashmere has an unmatched softness that feels heavenly

Post procurement, the Cashmere fibre is handspun over a wooden spinning wheel which converts the lumps of animal hair to long threads. The thickness (diameter) of this thread is just 12 to 16 microns. This makes Cashmere fibre one-fourth of human hair. Because of this, scarves made from it are heavenly soft and downy. It feels cozy on the skin and does not cause allergies. This is the complaint of most women all around the world, who are wearers of wool. Women complain of itchiness caused by wool wraps, which makes Cashmere scarves a better choice.

Cashmere is blissfully lightweight, and easy to carry

A large Cashmere wrap weighs mere 450 grams. And a Cashmere scarf (200*35 cm) weighs 300 grams. This makes them exceptionally lightweight and easy to carry and style. As a result, one opts for Cashmere scarves, as a sudden rise in temperature might demand the wearer to remove them. The lightweight Cashmere makes it easy to unwrap and stored safely in a handbag. 

The lightweight of these luxury pieces makes them ideal travel partners as they take up the least space in your bags. One can even store them in handbags. 

Cashmere scarves are timeless and live long

When taken proper care of, Cashmere scarves are lifelong companions. These beautiful assets have a lifespan of over 20 years and stay with their wearers for a long time. But this surely doesn't mean that they look old or withered with time. In fact, Cashmere is such a miracle fabric that it attains an heirloom look with time, and looks even more elegant after every use. This is why we don't say “buy a Cashmere scarf” but say “invest in a Cashmere scarf”, as it is considered a lifelong investment.

Cashmere scarves are stylish and versatile

One can never look unpresentable when carrying a Cashmere scarf. The reason for such a style statement is the gorgeous looks of a Cashmere scarf. Be it a solid piece, a profusely embroidered one, a printed scarf, or a laced one, Cashmere looks ethereal in all patterns and designs. 

Cashmere scarves have adapted to all ages. There are scarves for the elderly, middle-aged, and teenage girls. These beauties suit all temperaments and moods. 

Cashmere scarves are Handmade

Something made by hand is always full of love and emotions, besides being of the best quality. Cashmere scarves are handcrafted, exactly from procurement to the completion of the final product. Its acquisition is manual, spinning is manual, weaving is manual, and any adornments are manual too. Hence there is no inference of machine in the entire process of crafting these luxury scarves. 

Handmade gifts are loved by all. Hence Cashmere scarves are the perfect gifts to be given even to those who have everything. 

Cashmere scarves are sustainable

Can we love something that is harmful to the environment or its people? Never! This is the reason we recommend Cashmere to women. The procurement of Cashmere is cruelty-free, its processing is devoid of machines, and it helps empower its artisans, who work tirelessly to complete each design. Cashmere is recyclable, and its sales take care of artisan families, who are in great need of the same. 

Note: Many believe that Cashmere procurement is cruel, as the goats are killed to acquire Cashmere from their bodies. This is not true. In the moulting season, the Cashmere goat loses its body hair naturally, and some portion of it, which remains on the body, is gently combed off by its herders, using specialized tools. This process is pain-free and does not harm the animal whatsoever. 

Also read: DO VEGANS WEAR CASHMERE SCARF?

Cashmere has been the choice of the royals

Cashmere scarves are heritage pieces, which have been the first choice of royals and the affluent for centuries. The style icon of France, Empress Josephine, too, was fond of these beauties and owned more than a hundred pieces. 

It was the 15th century when a Persian traveler discovered Cashmere for the first time in Ladakh. A pair of socks made from this high-quality wool was gifted to the then-king, and the processing of Cashmere started during his reign. When Cashmere scarves came into existence, only the affluent and the men and women from noble courts would buy and wear them. Even now, the admirers of ancient art, the affluent or the high society fashion icons prefer these exquisite scarves to wool ones. 

We would love to recommend every single woman invest in at least one Cashmere scarf in her life. However, we would also like to inform you that the benefits of Cashmere can only be reaped if the scarf is made from pure, 100% original Cashmere fibre. There are scarves made from 70% Cashmere, and 30% silk or nylon, which do not provide enough warmth and last for just a year. Pure Cashmere will, on the other hand, wrap you in heavenly coziness and last for an entire lifetime. 

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman

~Audrey Hepburn 

A symbol of femininity, scarves are one of those accessories which evoke a sense of docility apart from looking sophisticated and elegant. These can be worn as a necessity to keep oneself warm, or as a fashion accessory. Hence these come in a number of shapes and sizes and patterns to seamlessly blend into the wardrobes of any woman. This also shows how versatile a scarf is because it pairs so well with any outfit. As patrons of these luxury accessories, we delve into their history, origins and current trends. 

The soft, silky undercoat of Cashmere goats, which are mostly found in the highlands of Mongolia, India, and Nepal, is used to make the opulent Cashmere scarf. Cashmere is one of the most sought-after natural fibers in the world because of its unmatched warmth, softness, and lightweight texture. Thoroughly combing the goats during their natural molting season yields the fibers, which are then spun into thin threads to make breathable and insulating scarves. In contrast to ordinary wool, cashmere is incredibly soft on the skin, which makes it the perfect material for scarves that offer warmth without being heavy or irritating.

Rich in texture and ideal for both formal and informal settings, cashmere scarves are prized for their ageless elegance. Sophisticated touches are added to any outfit with their many styles, which range from basic solid colors to highly patterned motifs. Because of their inherent ability to retain heat without being heavy, they are ideal for cold climates. A Cashmere scarf that has been well-maintained can soften even more with time and gain even more luxury. An elegant and comfortable statement, a Cashmere scarf looks great draped over the shoulders or wrapped snuggly around the neck.

Origin of The Scarf

To find the origins of the scarf, history took us to ancient Egypt, where a famous queen was the first to don a scarf. She is believed to wear it as a head scarf. But in those times it wasn't only women who wore scarves, nowadays the maximum users of scarves are women. In those times men and women alike were equal audiences to scarves and knew ways to wear them in the most elegant ways. It is believed that in ancient Rome, men used scarves to dry their sweat before the accessories became a trend. 

In the East, scarves are believed to be worn by military personnel to show their ranks. It is during this time that Napoleon gifted his wife a Cashmere scarf. While she was sceptical to wear it or give it away, later she is believed to own over 400 Cashmere scarves in her entire life. However, the journey was long, and it wasn't an overnight success like current fast fashion trends are. These accessories took their time to spread wings around the globe and fruitfully did so. 

Introduction of Cashmere Scarves 

Scarves made from the soft and delicate undercoat of cashmere goats, which are mostly derived from the Himalayan regions of Mongolia, India, and Nepal, are a symbol of eternal elegance. Ladakhi cashmere is the finest of all. During the natural shedding season, the fibers—which are prized for` their exceptional softness and warmth—are carefully gathered, spun into fine threads, and weaved into lightweight, insulating scarves. Cashmere, in contrast to typical wool, has a buttery-smooth texture that makes it the perfect material for scarves that hug the skin without causing irritation. Cashmere scarves have long been a favorite among people looking for style and coziness throughout the winter months because of its reputation for providing warmth without adding weight.

Beyond their usefulness, cashmere scarves are praised for their timeless design and adaptability. They are available in an extensive variety of patterns and colors, ranging from intricate patterns to basic monochrome forms. A Cashmere scarf lends refinement to any ensemble, whether it is worn casually or in formal wear. These scarves are a long-lasting investment in addition to being a statement of luxury due to the fibers' inherent durability and capacity to soften further over time. Because of this, cashmere scarves are treasured all around the world for its unparalleled blend of warmth, softness, and style.

When Cashmere scarves were introduced in the 18th century, they became the epitome of high fashion among women. The paisley motif was especially famous when it came to Cashmere, as a town in Scotland named ‘Paisley’ was the first town to manufacture like those owned by Josephine (wife of Napoleon). Paisley was home to over 5000 weavers and the wraps that they manufactured were much more popular in those times. In the latter half of the 19th century, however, the shawl and scarf trend experienced a decline, as women's wardrobes emerged otherwise. 

Use in Wars

What started as a hobby for women, became an essential service later. Knitting scarves by women was now a duty of women whose knit scarves were sent to soldiers in wars to keep them warm and safe during wartime. It was more of a patriotic duty than just a hobby they carried out in their free time. It is surprising to know that what is nowadays considered an old-fashioned hobby would have saved the lives of a large number of soldiers fighting for their country. Troops fighting in harsh, cold and wet conditions were supplied with these knit scarves, which they cherished and craved badly during wartime.

It is said that pilots used to wear white silk scarves to keep their necks from irritation. The softness and smooth texture of silk would prevent the skin from chafing. During the first world war, silk played a major role, as silk bags were used during wars. After the wars, these silk bags were converted to either garments or scarves. 

From Necessity to Fashion

As the trends of silk rolled out all over the west, many clothing brands started their own offerings in silk. Brands designed lightweight silk scarves that were again the need of the hour for the war-based nations. The eclectic prints and colours used in these uplifted the moods of soldiers whose homelands had turned to battlefields.

In the year 1937, it was Hermes, a fashion brand which imported Chinese silk and transformed it into opulent square silk scarves. Chinese silk was considered more durable and strong. The same designs are still used in Hermes scarves, along with the 90cm * 90cm size and hand-painted details. 

The only problem with silk was that they were quite expensive for the majority of the population. Hence a new fabric emerged in the 1930s. It was called rayon or Viscose and could emulate silk easily. It was hence called artificial silk because it was exactly like silk, but not even half of its price!

The trend of silk scarves continued to prosper till the outbreak of the second world war. During this period, scarves suddenly vanished as women took odd jobs, like those of men. Women started to work in factories where luxurious accessories had no place. They were forced to wear fit clothes, and it was ensured that not even their long luscious hair would show. Colours used for clothing women were dull pastel shades, and materials used were inexpensive cotton and linens. 

Scarves after the War

After the second world war, the fashion world cherished the brilliant coloured scarves used once. During this time, pattern scarves made their way into the fashion world. Ascher - a textile company, introduced several designs from leading designers around the world. Around 50 artists contributed and introduced some innovative scarves on rayon fabric because other fabrics faced shortages post-war. These were called “Artists Squares”. 

Silk Scarves Reintroduced in Fashion World

Silk scarves were postponed less and they quickly reemerged in the fashion world. The material itself was full of sheen and the colours over it looked even more brilliant and warm. Hermes again grew in popularity, and celebrities like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly were seen donning silk scarves in their movies. Many celebrities chose the Hermes Silk scarves themselves whenever they marched down the streets of New York. Hence the silk scarves gained popularity again, and soon became a symbol of elegance, power and femininity. 

It was Hermes alone who gained the most notoriety. Whilst Audrey Hepburn wore these scarves around her neck, other celebrities wore these as headbands. Grace Kelly would wear Hermes silk scarves, at times, as arm slings. Even Queen Elizabeth II was spotted wearing her Hermes silk scarf on the famous postage stamp.

During this time, scarves were more playfully designed. Not only them, but even outfits captured the optimism and depicted women as cheerful and good-natured. Head scarves were specially chosen by the rich and famous women to showcase this luxury piece, besides giving them privacy when needed. With large sunglasses and the headscarf, celebrities and rich women often kept a level of anonymity when they didn't want to be seen in public.

The popularity of silk did not remain confined to the rich only. In 1930, a famous restaurant in New York started giving away customised silk scarves to their regular customers. The designs kept changing year to year, and these luxury accessories still remain iconic in terms of collectables and are much sought after. 

Scarves as Luxury Adornments

Many big brands in these times transferred their signature styles to scarves so as to enjoy the same feel in accessorising. For example, the famous Burberry tartan check was now featured in scarves, and women who couldn't afford a Burberry trench coat could not buy a scarf instead, just to own the signature check. This step was crucial in a marketing sense, as it gave these brands more recognition and acceptance all over the world. It also gave women a chance to show off their purchases with big brands. 

Scarves made of cashmere are the height of luxury accessories, prized for their unrivaled warmth, softness, and classic style. These scarves, which are made from the finest Cashmere goat fibers, have an aura of refinement that is unmatched by most other textiles. The silky undercoat is harvested with care, and then expert weaving and finishing turn the basic material into a sophisticated neckwear that flows naturally. The blend of Cashmere's inherent insulating qualities and feather-light texture results in a scarf that is both elegant and comfortable, providing warmth without adding bulk and a softness that becomes better with time.

Cashmere scarves are luxurious accessories that are frequently viewed as status symbols because they combine exquisite craftsmanship and exclusivity. They may be worn with anything, from a dressy evening gown to a casual winter coat, thanks to their adaptability. Their rich texture and delicate gloss enhance any ensemble. Their sturdiness guarantees that they will be a valued item for years to come. They are available in a number of designs, from simple solids to intricately patterned pieces, to suit a variety of tastes. Cashmere scarves are desirable accessories in any discriminating wardrobe because they are more than just useful items—they represent an investment in classic elegance.

Similarly, Chanel used chains in their scarves to imitate the chains used in their bags. They made most of the 80's bold and confident fashion trends. These designs remained memorable, not just then but even now. 

Scarves decline in the ’90s

With a large number of cheaper alternatives emerging in the 90s, silk started declining and made space for alternatives. The same bright and vivid designs could be printed on these cheaper materials and that too at the fraction of the prices of doing the same on silk. The processes, as well as dyes used for these alternatives, proceed cheaper. Hence, silk lost the battle to those accessories which didn't look and feel luxurious like silk, but was more innovative and less expensive. Now silk scarves were no longer a must-have for women's wardrobes and soon vanished from the limelight.

It was during this time that travel eased much. The majority of the population did travel to far-off places and this was the case with fashion influencers too. Designers took inspiration from fashions and trends all over the world and tried reviving some designs from the past. For example, Pashmina shawls, which were worn by only the rich and affluent, were transformed into daily wear accessories for then-modern women. Now Cashmere scarves were a practical adornment and not just a flaunt-worthy accessory. 

The Rise of Cashmere

Cashmere scarves gained hyper impetus, as they were unmatched in quality till this period. They were considered unique and rare, owing to them being handcrafted out of wool from Cashmere goats reared in the Ladakh region of Kashmir. Their exclusive weaves, fine texture, smooth pattern and exceptional warmth attracted a large following. 

Pashmina comes from “Pashm” which literally translates to “soft gold” in the Persian language. Pashmina is the art of handcrafted luxury fabric out of Cashmere wool. The Cashmere goats are reared by nomadic tribes in Ladakh, who live at high altitudes that witness temperatures as low as -40 degrees C. For this reason, the Cashmere goat grows a fine undercoat that keeps them warm in winter. As temperatures rise in Spring, the coat is shed as a result of moulting, and this wool is collected to craft Cashmere scarves, Pashmina shawls and more.

It was these Cashmere scarves whose fashion rose to its zenith in the 90s. These were a woman's best friends in colder seasons. When clothing changed and sleeveless dresses were in, it was Cashmere scarves which covered the bare arms and chests of queens and women from noble courts. 

Modernisation of Scarves

As time went by, scarves too became contemporary. They adapted to new styles which could blend into fast lives. The ever-changing demand of the fashion industry forced clothing and accessories to change. As a result, brands reinvented their products. For example, Hermes reintroduced the scarves in a twill pattern and called it a ‘twilly’. These were often worn around the straps of handbags, as they were long and thin or around the wrists of women as bracelets or simply arm accessories. They were also used as headbands or hair ties with brilliant colours and prints. Very recently, Twilly scarves are seen being used as belts fastened around waists. 

In a similar way, Cashmere scarves too were revamped. These were not just plain or embroidered now, but featured a large number of contemporary patterns. Cashmere scarves were reintroduced in tartan checks, plaids, laced ones, modish prints and patterns and chic ombre dyes. These were made available and feasible for everyday use, as opposed to their earlier uncommon wear. Printed and patterned Cashmere scarves could be used as everyday accessories in colder seasons, as they were travel friendly as well as comparatively inexpensive. Initially, when discovered in the 18th century, these could not be afforded by commoners. But the modernisation of the same made it economical and pocket friendly. Nowadays, Cashmere scarves have modernised even more, and many additional patterns can be seen featured in these scarves. The Swarovski studded Cashmere scarf is a recent innovation, and these look breathtakingly beautiful. 

Also read: 5 EASY WAYS TO WEAR A CASHMERE WRAP

Why do we believe Cashmere scarves are the best?

While commonly scarves of different materials are worn for different occasions, Cashmere scarves are such accessories which suit all needs and occasions. The reason for their versatility is perhaps the way they have adapted to modern needs. Hence, this timelessness and conformability of these make us believe that these might be the best option for women today. Men and women of every age can wear Cashmere scarves on different occasions. Therefore, today, we have Cashmere scarves for your 10-year-old to wear to a casual occasion, as well as traditional pieces for your granny to wear to a wedding. And while there exists every kind of Cashmere scarf for women, there are even more luxurious pieces for men. Men look exceptional in Kani scarves, embroidered Cashmere wraps and the most minimal solid Cashmere scarves.

If you are planning to buy a scarf, we believe that Cashmere might be the best choice. Be it the softness that is as luxurious as the most expensive silk, its smooth like butter texture, its immense warmth that caresses one like the summer sun, or the exceptionally stylish variation, Cashmere stands out as the winner for winters, spring and fall.

Also read: MAKING OF PASHMINA SHAWLS

Cashmere Scarf and Sustainable Fashion

In the sustainable fashion movement, scarves—especially those crafted from natural fibers like cashmere—have become essential pieces. Scarves made with eco-friendly, biodegradable materials are in line with the ideals of sustainable fashion, which focuses on minimizing the impact on the environment and encouraging ethical manufacturing processes. For example, goats that naturally lose their undercoats provide cashmere, which is a sustainable and ethical fiber. Cashmere scarves support a more conscientious fashion business when they are made using ethical labor standards and sustainable farming methods. Natural Cashmere decomposes naturally, making it a more environmentally responsible option than synthetic fibers, which can take hundreds of years to do so.

Scarves are classic items that frequently go beyond cyclical trends, adding to the longevity of fashion in addition to their sustainable material. Reducing the need for frequent purchases and limiting textile waste, a well-made scarf—especially in classic designs—can be worn year after year without losing its appeal. Purchasing premium scarves manufactured from eco-friendly materials not only helps traditional methods-based craftspeople but also promotes a more deliberate and leisurely pace of fashion. This durability is in contrast to the fast fashion business model, where products are usually thrown out after a little period of use, adding to the trash in landfills.

Concluding

We are totally mesmerised by the versatility and functionality of scarves. Our love affair with these accessories might never end, as the possibilities of it being a must-have seem endless. Be it solid pieces, prints, embroideries, or be it made from silk, Cashmere, wool or rayon, we just can't get enough of them. These fine accessories mutate from one form to another with such grace and dignity that we are left speechless, wanting more. Other than being our favourite article of comfort and protection, they uplift the style quotient in a jiffy. Whether you wear it as a headscarf, bag accessory, alternative to bracelets (Twilly), or a protective wrap when the winter chills hit you, scarves will remain the uncrowned king of accessorizing, as they were then. 

Be your own stylist and wear these versatile accessories in whatever style you want. After all, haven't audiences been the best inspirations for designers? Wear the one that suits your mood, temperament, the weather and the occasion and look the best version of yourself.

Also read: THE LEGENDS OF A KASHMIRI SHAWL

Luscious, luxurious, and exceptionally soft, Cashmere is one of those fabrics which one wants to feel more than wear. But many of us did not yet get a chance to do so. So we take you on the journey of how Cashmere feels, how it is made, and where it comes from. 

A lot more expensive, unique, and super comfy - Cashmere is one of the fabrics which has possessed royal admiration for centuries. But why is the fibre such a prized one, and why does Cashmere wrap stay with one for a lifetime? And if it is animal wool, why doesn't it feel itchy on the skin? All of these questions have risen from the customer end as the takers of Cashmere have always shown keen interest in the acquisition and processing of this fine wool. Everyone wonders about the finesse of this luxury fibre and hence remains curious about its source. At the same time, one feels that shawls and scarves made from any animal fibre would definitely feel itchy. Then why should one spend thousands of dollars to purchase a wrap that causes itch to their most delicate skin parts like the neck, back, shoulders etc? 

History in Europe

Historically, Cashmere has been one of the most popular fibre types when it came to fashion. Women who were remembered as fashion divas in their times preferred Cashmere scarves to all other accessories. This was 18th century Europe and Cashmere came to be known as the finest and the most luxurious fabric of all times. 

Is Cashmere Itchy? If yes, Why is Cashmere itchy? These are some vital questions that one should get answers to, before going out shopping for Cashmere. Let’s know it all!

Where does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere comes from the Himalayas, where the rare Cashmere goats are found scattered in different regions. These Cashmere goats are believed to grow the best quality Cashmere.  Owing to the Himalayas being the centre point of Cashmere production, Cashmere producing regions are Mongolia, China, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India. The finest Cashmere is produced by the Ladakhi goat, found in North India. It is the area of Changthang, which has a freezing temperature of -40 degrees C, where the goat resides. Since the temperatures are freezing in winter, nature blesses the goat with Cashmere, which is warm enough to keep it safe and comfortable all the cold season long.

The soft, fine, and luxurious fibre of Cashmere come from the prized Changthangi goats. These goats are rare and exotic. It grows luxury fine fleece over its body, which is later processed to become Cashmere sweaters, shawls, wraps, scarves, mufflers, socks and other accessories. 

Acquiring Cashmere

It is the Spring season, and the warmth of Cashmere makes the goat uncomfortable. As a result, it rubs its body against coarse surfaces and gets rid of some portion of the same. Wool from the goat is hence found around its occupying places. Shrubs, stones, walls and the ground, all are filled with goat hair. All of this spread-out wool is collected, yet there is still some amount left on the body. The left-out wool is professionally combed off gently, using specialized combs and tools. All of this is packed in small packets and processed manually later. 

Cashmere, from Ladakh, is processed in Kashmir, and this is the place where Europeans saw it first. From Kashmir, large exports of Cashmere products took place in the 18th to 19th centuries. Even now, Kashmir has the finest quality Cashmere. Shawls made from Ladakhi Cashmere are world-famous, and Europeans still swoon over this specific quality. This has been so since the early 18th century when Europeans first heard of this magnificent fabric.

Processing of this fine wool

If there is something that makes Cashmere the excellent fibre that it is, it is the processing it goes through to become a final wearable. The art of transforming raw Cashmere wool to complete products is called Pashmina. Pashmina is an art that was started in Kashmir by a Persian Saint, and because of him, the art was given a Persian name. (Pashm translates to ‘soft gold’ in Persian).

Before processing, the procurement of Cashmere is itself a challenge. Earlier one had to manually travel to Ladakh and procure the fine threads. But with travel ease, Cashmere reaches the valley in bulk, where specialist hands await.

Cashmere is combed by specialised tools in the springtime, which is the moulting season for the goats. It is the time when the goat is naturally losing its undercoat. This is raw Cashmere, and it comes from the goat’s belly, the underside of the throat, and behind the ears. Wool is collected in small pouches and it is later cleaned thoroughly to separate guard hair and other dirt attached to it. 

Steps to process Cashmere - the Finest Animal Hair

It takes a number of steps to process Cashmere in order to make it wearable for its takers. It all starts with the acquisition of fibre from Ladakh. The herders of the Cashmere-producing goat have to wait all year for early spring-summer. This is the time, from March to April, when Cashmere goats are ready to lose all their hair. Temperatures are already high at the altitudes, especially where Cashmere goats graze, and the hair becomes intolerable. This is the time when herders realise that it's time to collect the hair from their bodies. 

After collecting the hair from the goats’ bodies, herders keep them in small pouches. This is the material that goes in bulk to its processors. From Ladakh, fine Cashmere goes in bulk to Kashmir, where different artisans await its arrival. 

Processing Cashmere

To start with, Cashmere is cleaned. For this, women join hands and begin with washing the lumps of wool. This process is immensely hard and takes a lot of patience to do. Lumps of wool are cleaned, getting rid of any foreign materials like dirt, dust, vegetable waste or any waste that attaches itself to the goat’s body. Raw Cashmere is now clean, ready to meet another set of artisans. 

Spinning is another activity which comes immediately after cleaning. Raw wool is in lumps and is partially sorted during the cleaning process. Now, womenfolk take it for spinning, which is again done manually over a spinning wheel. The wheel assists the artisans to transform lumps of wool into delicate fibres. These fibres are super gentle and flimsy, such that one can even break them with fingers. To meet the high-quality standards that Cashmere is world-famous for, the diameter of the spun yarn has to be 12-16 microns only (a human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns). This wondrous fibre even has an insulating capability, which makes the finished product three times more insulating than sheep wool. 

Weaving the spun fibre

Post spinning, when rolls of Cashmere fibre are ready, weavers await its further processing. To start with, the fibre is stretched which expands it to its maximum capability. Post stretching, it is taken to a processing unit, where it is mounted over a wooden handloom. Artisans sit one or two individuals at a time, over the handloom, and in 3 to 4 days process the fibre. A shawl is complete in a few days, a scarf takes 2 or 3 days, whereas a men's shawl takes about a week. 

Expensive? Why not!

China, Mongolia, and Nepal are the producers of 90% of the total Cashmere in the world. Only 10% come from India and other Asian countries. The finest Cashmere is obtained from the Capra haircuts species of goats found in the Ladakh region of Kashmir, India. The annual yield from one Changthangi goat is roughly 150 grams. This makes the wool quite rare. For a large-sized women’s shawl, (200*100 cms), fleece from at least 3 to 4 goats is required. The same is required for a thin full-sized Cashmere cardigan. A goat that has the capacity to yield higher amounts might be chosen to prepare large sweaters, and if the quality has to be the best, then the goat’s underbelly fibre is chosen. 

Perhaps now we know that the high prices of Cashmere are very well deserved. Be it the labour-intensive process of acquiring and processing the raw fibre, the low yield per goat, or the exceptional softness and warmth of the final product, Cashmere is indeed the king of fibres. 

Why should we invest in it?

There are so many reasons why we should own at least one Cashmere product in our lifetime. While women might be indifferent to it because of its price, or dubious about its quality, there are plenty of them who are just curious. So we give them some good reasons to buy Cashmere today.

It is warmer than wool?

Why invest in a thick woollen scarf or sweater, when you can be more comfortable with a lightweight, fine Cashmere one? Yes, Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep wool, and lighter in weight too. This makes it the first preference while shopping for winter.

It is breathable

Despite being one of the warmest products in the world, Cashmere is quite breathable. One would never feel too hot in a Cashmere product, as it has great insulating properties. 

Is Cashmere Itchy?

This question surprised us too. When one of our customers asked us “Is Cashmere itchy?”, we were startled, because there is nothing as soft and smooth as Cashmere. As compared to sheep wool, Cashmere is far less itchy. We will discuss this topic in detail later. 

What does it feel like?

Cashmere has a heavenly feel. It has exceptional softness and it is lightweight and downy. It gives a person that kind of experience which he/she probably hasn't felt before. Once you wear it, you will forget about all the luxuries the world has.

How to Care for Cashmere?

A Cashmere wrap has to be cared about like a baby. From the way you wear it to its washing, drying, and storing, everything is to be done with proper precaution and care.

As far as washing is concerned it is better to wash this luxury fabric with your hands. Simply fill a tub with lukewarm water and a Cashmere shampoo. If you're short of the same, a mild baby shampoo too will work. Soak the product in for 30 seconds and then rinse with cold water. Do not wring

Drying Cashmere has to be natural. Just put your sweater/ wrap over a dry towel and roll the towel to absorb the water from it. Replace this wet towel with a new dry one, and let the gentle fabric air dry naturally

Storing your valued wrap or scarf again has to be a responsible process. The place where you store your precious piece has to be clean, dry, and disinfected. Do not store it in plastic as plastic helps grow moisture. Instead wrap it in large tissue papers, to keep it dry and safe. 

Some important precautions to keep in mind

Briefly, these are the steps to care for a Cashmere scarf post its season:

• Wash the Cashmere in lukewarm water. Cold water won't clean it properly and hot water will ruin its shape and texture
• Never dry Cashmere directly in sunlight. Never hang it whilst drying. These mistakes might cost you your super pricey piece of accessory. Hanging will tamper its shape permanently. Air drying your Cashmere accessories is the best way to go. 
• Make sure your Cashmere scarf or shawl is completely dry before you store it. If any amount of moisture remains, the scarf will be lost forever. Moisture is the biggest enemy when it comes to natural fibres. 
• Ironing a shawl/scarf is complicated. One cannot directly bring an iron in contact with Cashmere. Either one has to use a steam iron, or a dry iron can be used without direct contact with the fabric. Placing a cotton sheet in between Cashmere and the dry iron is the way to iron Cashmere when it is needed.

Storing Cashmere

• Storing Cashmere is in itself a task. When properly stored, Cashmere looks as fresh as new the next season. But if any carelessness is shown with regard to storage, your precious scarf/shawl will be ruined forever. One has to look for a clean and dry place that is away from direct sunlight. Moisture, in any way, will damage the fibre. 
• Always avoid stacking Cashmere shawls/scarves or sweaters over each other. This causes friction which damages the surface. Instead, try placing an acid-free tissue paper in between the folds and between two consecutive shawls so that the surface remains tension free. 
• Always check for any stains before you store the Cashmere for the next season. The stains will deepen their effects on the fine fabric. Hence, the shawl/scarf should be cleaned off any dirt or even a small spot before wearing it next year.

Can a Cashmere Wrap Stretch?

Yes, Cashmere can stretch and get disfigured. This is the reason why it should not be wrung after washing. Also, a Cashmere wrap should not be hung from a hanger, as it has more drape than bounce. As such, it does not return to its original form. Instead, it should be stored in a drawer in a folded position, or else hanging will pull it down due to gravity and it will get deformed forever. 

If your Cashmere has stretched for some reason, wash it in lukewarm water, reshape it, and dry it flat. There is a possibility that it might regain its original shape.

Why does Cashmere feel itchy?

If Cashmere is still feeling itchy in your body, you might have an allergy when it comes to animal fibre. There are a lot of individuals in the world who are allergic to all-natural fibres. You might be one of them. Many such individuals believe that only fake Cashmere is itchy, but when they shop for pure pieces, they wonder why is 100% Cashmere itchy, if it is purest. Well, pure Cashmere will be especially itchy if you are allergic to natural animal hair. Fake or mixed Cashmere will feel better to them.

It is highly essential to test Cashmere against your skin if you are planning to buy one. Rub the inside of Cashmere against your neck or other sensitive parts of your body. If you feel a rash coming up or an immediate itch, then Cashmere will definitely not suit you. If, however, Cashmere has swooned you and you anyway want to wear it, you can cover it underneath with cotton or silk layering. Or else, wear an organic cotton layer underneath your Cashmere sweaters or shawls if you're prone to itchiness.

Is Cashmere really itchy?

No. It's not. Even newborn babies are wrapped in small-sized Cashmere wraps, and their delicate skin doesn't suffer from any negative reaction. So if your Cashmere is feeling scratchy or irritating, there might be a bigger problem to tackle.

Nevertheless, the texture of Cashmere is so soft and gentle and doesn't cause an itch on the skin. One might feel itchy in woollens, but the softness of Cashmere will definitely amaze them

Which fabric is itchy?

Cashmere vs Wool is a big topic that has to be clearly understood. The difference between Cashmere and wool is that between animal hair and wool. Wool is exclusively collected from sheep, but animal hair comes from goats, alpacas, llamas and others. Wool helps animals to protect their bodies from rain, snow and other external factors, but animal hair keeps the animal warm. Its primary use is keeping the animal warm when conditions aren't much suitable for them to bear. 

Cashmere is animal hair and wool is sheep wool that comes from merino and other types of sheep. Animal hair is softer than sheep wool and is hence preferred when it comes to apparel. 

Even Though wool is cheaper than Cashmere, it is the roughness of wool that makes it the second choice. Sheep wool can be itchy and pretty uncomfortable when it comes to touching the bare skin. When closely observed under a microscope, wool fibres have something strange in them. They are not smooth like perhaps they should have been. Under a microscope, rough edges can be seen, and these are the enemies that rub against the skin and cause itchiness. This causes mild to severe irritation depending upon the type of skin its wearer has. 

The Luxury of Cashmere

That is about the feel and experience that a Cashmere gives you. It is a luxury fabric that comes from the mighty Himalayan ranges to your wardrobes, after treading a painstaking path. Exactly from its procurement to its finish, your lavish product passes through the hands of a hundred craftsmen, who put their heart and soul into detailing it. It is their love and care that makes it extra special, and worthy of every effort spent to have it. 

For the most ardent patrons of Cashmere, having the same is nothing less than a dream come true.  The way it looks, the way it feels, and the way it keeps one away from the gelid cold days of the winter season are simply awe-inspiring. A Large Cashmere shawl weighs just 400 plus grams and that is one of the most amazing features of this luxury accessory. A lightweight shawl so warm that one doesn't need to layer in heavy blankets and jackets. 

Also read: IS MERINO WOOL BETTER THAN CASHMERE?

Not just shawls and scarves

Cashmere fibre has recently been used in making throws and baby blankets and this should itself tell people around the world about its finesse and smooth texture, besides its warmth. Cashmere blankets are super lightweight yet warm and this makes them a favourite. Baby blankets are cosy enough to keep even days-old babies comfy. Hence Cashmere is for everyone - Timeless and Ageless.

When Cashmere was introduced for the first time in Kashmir, it was Europeans, who became the most obsessed with it. High demands from Europe and people themselves visiting the valley made it clear to the world that Kashmir had given birth to the most luxurious accessory of all times. Even now, Cashmere holds the same stature around the globe, which makes it a must-have for admirers of traditional fashion and style. 

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

Conclusion

In conclusion, is cashmere itchy? The answer largely depends on the quality of the cashmere and how it's processed. High-quality cashmere, known for its fine, soft fibers, is typically not itchy and is revered for its luxurious feel against the skin. However, lower-grade cashmere or blends that include other fibers might not offer the same level of comfort and could cause irritation for those with sensitive skin.

When considering a cashmere purchase, it's important to prioritize quality and craftsmanship to ensure that your experience with this luxurious fabric is as comfortable as it should be. By choosing well-made, pure cashmere garments, you can avoid the potential itchiness associated with inferior products.

Ultimately, is cashmere itchy? It shouldn't be if you invest in authentic, high-quality cashmere. This fabric is celebrated for its softness and warmth, making it a cherished material for those who appreciate comfort and luxury in their clothing.

You have just been given a choice. You have to choose between a Merino wool scarf and a Cashmere scarf. What do you choose? How do you choose? Do you have enough knowledge about Merino wool and Cashmere that will affect your choice?

The only thing that will help you shop like a breeze is the perfect knowledge about the products you have to choose between. Hence we write this blog today to give you the right information about the basic rules of winter shopping. What is merino wool? What is Cashmere? Is Cashmere also a wool type? Do we only have two alternatives, or can we opt for a third one?  Sit back and relax, as we take you into the basics of the wool industry

What is Wool?

The thick coat found on a sheep’s body is wool. And that is the only thing that wool is. A goat’s coat won't be called wool, but hair. Nevertheless, animals have two kinds of hair or wool on their bodies, One is the overcoat or guard hair which protects animals from rain primarily. And the other, finer version of wool or hair is the undercoat, which keeps them warm. Overcoats are thick and less pricey, while undercoats are fine, warm, and expensive when sold as processed products.

History of Wool

It is not some decades ago, but wool has a deep history. It is believed that wool used in garments dates back to 6000 BC. Ancient Iranians are believed to be the first ones to rear sheep and use their wool in garments and process them into fabric. This practice of theirs is still fruitful, and the wool industry knows no bounds till now. There is just one difference. They only used sheep wool, but today wool has a large number of variants. Wool types are classified on the basis of softness, fineness, and warmth. Again users have to choose between wool and hair, as hair has different sources from goats, rabbits, or alpacas.

Properties of Wool

Wool remains the most preferred fabric as soon as winter arrives. Here are a number of strong reasons that make wool the first thought. 

• Wool is really durable and hard to tear as compared to some fine variants
• Wool has good insulation properties. Its moisture-absorbing properties and the ability to trap air keeps its users warm. 
• Wool takes in dyes really well. Just one coating of a dye is sufficient to change the colour of wool fabric.
• The best thing about wool is that it is recyclable.

Types of Wool

There are a number of varieties of wool. Let us summarize:

Lambswool

The very first shearing of a baby sheep gives off a really fine and soft wool, which is called Lambswool. Lambswool comes from a lamb younger than 7 months old. 1 to 13 kg of wool can be produced by a single animal. It depends on their breed, health condition, and type. Some sheep breeds produce wool strong enough to make carpets, while others produce fine wool for making wraps or scarves. 

Merino Wool

This wool comes from merino sheep. It is the softest wool in the world and the most sorted one. It is popular for being used in clothing. Merino wool clothing is warm, luxurious, and fine as compared to other sheep wool types. It is believed that the micron count of Merino fibre can go down to even 20 microns at times. 

Mohair wool

Mohair is goat hair, which comes from the Angora goat. The hair has more length, which makes the final product a smooth appearance and feel. Mohair products are shiny, soft, and lustrous. These are durable and hence used in making apparel, baby clothing, sweaters, and wraps.

Angora wool

This fine hair is sourced from the undercoat of the Angora rabbit. Angora hair products are exceptionally soft and smooth owing to the fact that Angora fibre is just 10-15 microns in diameter. Angora rabbits are combed throughout the year, and by the end of the year, they produce up to 500 grams of wool.

Qiviut

It is the arctic musk ox that gives Qiviut. Qiviut is fine, expensive, and softer as compared to sheep wool. It has the amazing property of not shrinking in water and is surprisingly 8 times warmer than sheep wool. Like Cashmere, the musk ox sheds its fleece in the moulting season, and its herders comb it off gently and pick it from the ground. 

Cashmere wool

Cashmere, as explained earlier, is also goat hair. It is the down coat of the Changthangi goat. Cashmere is world-famous for its warmth, softness, and grace. The diameter of a Cashmere fibre is just 12 to 16 microns, which is one-fourth of a human hair. Cashmere is found growing on the underbelly and neck areas of the Cashmere goat. One goat yields around 150 grams of wool per year, which makes it scarce and hence expensive. Wool from 3 to 4 goats is used to make one Cashmere wrap.

Also read: WHICH COUNTRY HAS THE BEST CASHMERE?

Vicuna

One of the rarest kinds of wool in the world is Vicuna. Vicuna is even finer than Cashmere. It comes from the vicuna, a small llama-like animal, which is native to the Andes Mountains in Peru. The hair of Vicuna is exceptionally gentle, and owing to this, it doesn't accept dyes. Hence Vicuna wraps are always in their natural shade.

Is Merino wool better than Cashmere?

Both Merino and Cashmere are warm, soft, and comfy, and make their wearers quite stylish. There are, however, a large number of differences between them, which make the Cashmere class apart. Both these wool and hair varieties are unique in their own way, but there are a number of features that make Cashmere expensive and sorted all over the world.

• Cashmere is 8 times warmer than Merino wool. Hence Cashmere is more expensive, as it gives more warmth, and is more lightweight in comparison. 
• Cashmere is softer than merino wool. Its fibre is just 12 to 16 microns. 
• Merino wool is more durable than Cashmere. Cashmere can tear easily when treated harshly.

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

Is Mohair more expensive than Cashmere?

Cashmere is generally considered more expensive than Mohair due to factors like rarity and processing, it's important to note that the price of both fibers can vary widely based on various factors. When considering luxury fibers like Cashmere and Mohair, it's advisable to research the product's quality, authenticity, and craftsmanship before making a purchase.

The world's most popular and exquisite and luxurious accessory is perhaps the Pashmina shawl. From ancient royalty to celebrities today, everyone has been smitten by the sheer looks and feel of Pashmina shawls that come all the way from Kashmir. But have you ever noticed that all Pashmina shawls are not the same? While some are traditional, others are super modern. While some are large and heavy, others are super light and portable. And while some take years and years to complete, others take a few weeks. Where does this discrepancy come from? What are the types of Pashmina shawls, and how are they prepared? We have solutions for all your doubts, but first, do you know what the Pashmina shawl is?

What is a Pashmina Shawl?

Pashmina shawls are those luxury wraps that are handcrafted from pure Ladakhi Cashmere. Cashmere wool is the processed fleece that grows over the body of a rare Ladakhi goat. The goat sheds its fleece in the moulting period, which is collected and processed to prepare Pashmina shawls. 

Types of Pashmina Shawls

On the basis of adorning and patterning them, we have mainly 5 types of Pashmina shawls, popular in Kashmir. Even Though Pashmina shawls have adapted to modern design, these classic styles remain timeless. 

1. Hand Embroidered Shawls

When it comes to the most common, most revered, and the cream of the crop, nothing beats the classic demeanour of hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls. These luxury shawls were amongst the very first patterns when Pashmina was discovered. Let us delve into the nitty gritties of sozni hand embroidery and discover how marvelous and intricate this type is. 

Sozni embroidery

Sozni embroidery is the most popular type of embroidery done on Pashmina shawls. This is because the delicate and fine Pashmina demands embroidery even fine. And Sozni embroidery has been declared the winner for a long time. The artisans of Sozni embroidery use silk or wool threads to create motifs over the base with fine needles. Threads for embroidery are chosen after the colour of the shawl is declared. Only the best combination of threads is chosen, that will blend gracefully with the base colour. But first, the shawl is prepared for embroidery in the following steps

Step 1: Block Printing the design

A finely carved walnut wood stamp, that has the embroidery motif carved on it, lays the base for embroidery threads. Embroidery workshops in Kashmir have a vast collection of these blocks, and these have been used for decades now. These have been handcrafted by expert walnut carvers for years. The block for a particular shawl is chosen carefully and imprinted on the shawl after dipping it in chemical ink. The impression thus cast on the base of the shawl is to be followed by embroidery artisans. 

Step 2: Choosing embroidery threads

Embroidery threads are carefully chosen by designers and workmen who have experience of decades in this attention-demanding activity. They have known which colour combinations have always been liked by people, and hence stick to those mostly. If however, a shade does not produce the desired result, the threads are plucked out, and new shades are chosen by these perfectionist workmen.

Step 3: Embroidering the Shawls

The third and final step is following the imprinted designs and hand embroidering the shawl with the help of fine threads and needles. Men either gather at workshops or take the shawl home to work from their comfort zones. Nevertheless, the shawls hence crafted look nothing less than art marvels.

Sozni embroidery can take anywhere from 3 to 5 years to complete. Jamawar patterns, where the shawl is filled profusely with embroidery take up to 5 years to complete. As a result, these are washed thoroughly post embroidering as it has been 5 years of moving from one hand to another. This is done under spring water, and the shawls are air-dried later. Post this, the shawls are ironed and sent to markets for sale. 

 Tilla embroidery 

Tilla embroidery, locally called Tilla dozi was first discovered, only to be perfect for the then-rich and affluent. Shawls with tilla embroidery were affordable for kings and royals because the threads used in this embroidery were made of real gold and silver. This is however not the case now, and the threads used are metallic ones dipped in gold and silver. Here are the steps that are followed to craft a tilla-embroidered pashmina shawl

Step 1: Designing the Embroidery Pattern

The process of Tilla embroidery begins with the designer (locally called Naqash) drawing a design over tracing paper. Then he perforates this paper with a specialized tool (needle). In the meantime, other artisans prepare the ink, which is believed to be prepared from kerosene and sand. The perforated trace paper is now placed over the shawl, and a duster is chosen to be dipped in the earlier prepared ink. Next, the duster is moved over the perforated paper which mirrors the design of the shawl. 

Step 2: Embroidering the shawl

The shawl, ready with stamped design, is passed on to the Tilla embroidery artisans, who carefully use two main threads to embroider it. One thread is gold or silver which is the Tilla thread. The other one is a staple thread, golden in colour, which helps affix and hold the thick Tilla thread with the shawl. 

Step 3: Finishing processes

Tilla threads are now made of copper, which is dipped in gold or silver and used to embroider Tilla shawls. Once embroidered, these art pieces are sent for washing, ironing, and packing. Special care of the Tilla threads has to be taken during the ironing process, as the metal threads have to come in contact with heat. 

Papier Mache Embroidery

A thicker and more colourful version of the sozni embroidery is the Papier Mache embroidery. The difference between the two is that Papier Mache embroidery uses thicker needles and threads, and the area to be embroidered in these shawls is more. As such, more colourful and chunky patterns are created to make the shawl heavier and intensely hued. 

The embroidery form derives its name from the papier mache art of Kashmir (where chewed paper is transformed into utility and decorative articles), which looks similar to the embroidery patterns. The process of Papier Mache embroidery done on Pashmina is exactly the same as Sozni embroidery, but the thickness of the threads and type of motifs differ. 

2. Kani Pashmina Shawls 

Nothing is more exquisite, artistic, and aesthetic to the senses as is the Kashmiri Kani shawl. Be it the patterns, the base of pure Cashmere, or the breathtakingly beautiful motifs woven with the fine base, everything awestrikes the onlookers. Kani shawl making is as ancient as Pashmina shawls themselves. These two are inseparable. One might think of embroidering sheep wool shawls in the embroideries of Pashmina, but never will a woman imagine Kani weaving in a shawl other than Pashmina shawls. 

The making of Pashmina is as complicated as carpet making. As a matter of fact, both processes look exactly the same, but of course, aren't. Here is a step-by-step guide to the making of the world-famous Kani shawl, which got the fashion icon Empress Josephine swooning and fascinated. 

Step 1: Designing the pattern to be woven

The designer (naash) designs a Talim, which is a coded pattern from the weavers to get guidance. The weavers bring this pattern to life with the help of countless bobbins, or wooden sticks called Kanis. 

Step 2: Introduction of Kanis (wooden sticks)

The Kanis are loaded with threads of different colours which are to be inserted in the warp threads as wefts. There is no embroidery. Neither is the shuttle active, moving from one side of the warp threads to the other. Instead, threads from these Kanis are inserted at different points across the warm threads. This entire task is immensely time and energy-consuming, and for this reason, Kani shawls take years to complete. 

“Four red, two yellow, six blue...

Six white, two green, eight pinks…" 

These are some of the clamours heard in the karkhanas (factories) where Kani shawls are being woven. 

The most skilled weavers can weave up to one inch of the shawl in Kani weave per day. Around 75 to 100 Kanis are used to make one Pashmina shawl in Kani weave. Owing to the time-consuming process, it takes over 3 - 4 years to craft one Kani shawl, which is expensive and rare to find. This is the case with Kani Jamawar shawls, where the Kani weave spreads all over the shawl. 

 3. Laced Pashmina Shawls

For the modern young audience, Pashmina shawls have come out of the traditional shell and now feature contemporary patterns. One of the modern designs in Pashmina shawls is the laced pattern. Pashmina shawls, when in their solid form, and handed over to artisans who hand stitch lace over the borders mainly, and in the centre at times.

Pashmina shawls mostly feature the French Chantilly Laces. These laces are luxurious, often made from cotton which is lightweight yet durable. French Chantilly laces have been a symbol of affluence and high social status in ancient France. Their dainty fabric is fine and airy and hence chosen to festoon the gossamer base of Pashmina shawls. Chantilly lace is a type of lightweight lace (30-180 g/m 2) on a net background, usually with a floral pattern, outlined with silk threads. The name of this lace came from the French city Chantilly. This type of lace is a timeless classic. Sheer or semi-sheer, with scalloped edges, it is perfect for bridal fashion, airy evening gowns, or overlays.

The laces are hand stitched onto the shawls, as machine stitching would end up tearing the shawls as well as the laces. The hand stitching process takes immense savoir-faire, time, and dedication from the artisan, in addition to skill and patience. Only a small number of artisans, who have learned the art for years, have the skill of hand stitching these delicate laces onto the surface of Pashmina shawls.

4. Swarovski Pashmina Shawls

Recent development in the making of contemporary Pashmina shawls led designers to handcraft Swarovski crystal Pashmina Shawl. Swarovski crystals are diamond-like crystals, but actually, a man-made form of glass created with a patented process. The crystals are beautiful, especially when featured over the timeless Pashmina shawls. 

Crystals of different colours are collected, which are strategically chosen by designers and artisans. These are placed on the already stamped Pashmina shawl, over the stamp marks. This is done with the help of tweezers, as the crystals are small, and placing them with fingers might not work, or displace them. Then the shawl is placed under a heat press to make the crystals adhere to the fabric. A grease-proof paper or Teflon sheet is placed over the crystals, and the fabric is pressed at a suitable temperature for just a few seconds. The crystals become hot, and hence it is recommended not to touch them as soon as you switch the heat press off. The shawl is to be cooled down for a few minutes till you can touch or use it. 

Also read: WHICH COUNTRY HAS THE BEST CASHMERE?

5. Kalamkari Pashmina Shawls

The word Kalamkari comes from two words, ‘Kalam’ meaning ‘Pen’ and ‘Kari’ meaning ‘Work’. Hence the nomenclature indicates that some kind of penwork might be associated with these shawls, which is true. 

This exquisite form of textile art came into existence during the Indo -Persian trade. All textiles which were hand tainted with natural pens were called kalamkari. As a result, even Pashmina artisans were inspired by this art form, and Kalamakri shawls came into existence. The exquisite art, hence, dates back centuries, yet artisans have now evolved as far as the paintings that they painted are concerned. 

The process of making Kalamkari shawls is quite complicated. Some believe that it is whole 25 steps that go into making one shawl. These steps are dyeing, hand painting, outlining, washing, ironing, and more. The solid Pashmina shawls are dyed in the specific colour required by the seller. As they dry, bamboo sticks (kalam) are prepared - shaped and pointed at the end to form a nib. The pens are then dipped in vegetable dyes and used over the shawl by skilled and experienced craftsmen. The motifs they hand paint can be later outlined in black or any darker shade. This is optional. 

It takes around 7 - 8 months to prepare one Kalamkari shawl. The shawl looks like an art piece, as it is filled with myriads of colours and shades that look brilliant and out of the ordinary. 

Also read: TURNING THE WAYS FOR THE PLEDGE OF FINEST CASHMERE

We love it, don't we?

What intricate processes, what time-consuming procedures, and what skill of the artisans who make it! Making a Pashmina shawl is truly a journey of awe-striking events in which one falls in love with the art form even more.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS DURING THE DOGRA PERIOD

Kashmiri shawls are coveted fabrics that have a rich history of being the most valued possession. Cherished and prized by the courts of Caesar, or the French queen Mary Antoinette, Kashmiri shawls have enjoyed patronage in Royal European courts as well. However, it was after the aegis of Empress Josephine that these shawls gained immense impetus. Josephine was considered a style icon, and hence everything she wore would become a trend. The same was the case with these shawls, which the Empress owned over a hundred. Pashmina shawls come from Cashmere which is often referred to as soft gold, owing to its heavenly softness, lightweight texture and fine weave. 

The Luxurious Kashmiri Shawl

Conscientiously hand-woven Kashmiri shawls are synonymous with exquisiteness and class. Pashmina comes from the word ‘Pashm’, which is a Persian word for ‘Soft Gold’, and truly so. The shawls are regarded as the best of their type, and this has been the case for centuries. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls have found their eminent places in museums across the world like the Museum of Modern Art in New York to the Louvre in Paris.

Kashmiri shawls are handcrafted from Cashmere wool which comes from the best goat species in the world. The goat is the Capra Hircus, which is locally known as the Changthangi goat or the Pashmina goat. It is reared by nomads at a height of over 14000 feet in the Changthang area of Ladakh. For this reason, Kashmiri shawls are used synonymously with Pashmina shawls.

Back to History

The weaving of Cashmere to produce fine Kashmiri Pashmina shawl dates back to 3000 BC in Kashmir. Back then, it was just the affluent population that could afford and hence wear Pashmina shawls. The royal courts, hence, enjoyed the luxury of this coveted fabric in their courts. But it was only after the patronage of Empress Josephine that made Kashmiri shawls the most sought-after accessory in Europe.

In Kashmir, it was King Zain ul Abideen who has been considered the pioneer of the Pashmina industry. He ruled over Kashmir in the 15th century, and it was under his rule that Kashmiri shawls thrived. It was he who invited craftsmen from Turkistan to train the locals in weaving the yarn. Mughal emperors in general gave a boost to this art form, and hence the economy prospered much in this era. 

Pashmina art has been mentioned in literature. It was King Akbar who took a keen interest in supporting this industry, and the literature of his time (1556-1605 CE) mentions Pashmina much. In fact, the motifs over the shawls of this time were named after him. Even now motifs embroidered over Kashmiri shawls have Mughal influence. Motifs like Shah Pasand (Emperor's delight) and Buta Mohammad Shah (Mohammad Shah's flower) are a testimony to the Mughal patronage of this art form. Kashmiri Pashmina shawls find mentioned in the autobiography of Emperor Jehangir (Tuzk e Jahangiri), where the emperor mentions how Pashmina shawls were his favourite clothing piece. Hence, the Mughal era saw Pashmina art reach its zenith. So much so, that one and a half square yards of Pashmina fabric could be passed through a finger ring!

The 18th Century Pashmina

In the 18th century, Pashmina art travelled to Europe and gained popularity among the affluent circles there. The world-famous Emperor Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a Kashmiri Kani shawl. She was fascinated by the same, and it is believed that she later ordered a few hundred shawls. This patronage of hers made the shawl fashion statements in Europe. 

It was Europeans who invented the term ‘Cashmere’ which was an anglicization of the word ‘Kashmir’. Kashmir, too, increased its production of Pashmina shawl due to high demand from Europe. With the ever-increasing popularity, British and French textile owners started copying Pashmina shawls. They conducted a number of experiments with the Cashmere fibre, and mixed the same with other fibres. But never could they attain a fabric as fine, soft and luxurious as a Pashmina shawl.

In Scotland, however, the best copy was finally made. It wasn't as good as a Pashmina shawl but gained a decent impetus. It was called the Paisley shawl, after its hometown Paisley - a town in Scotland. These shawls were cheaper than original Pashmina shawls and hence became famous around Europe. By the end of the 19th century, many versions of Pashmina shawls were easily available around Europe, and women invested in them for their cheap prices yet a little Pashmina-like quality. 

Types of Kashmiri shawls 

The types of Kashmiri Pashmina shawls back then were different from what they are now. There were four major types of Pashmina shawls:

• Jamawars: Jamawar Pashmina shawls featured designs all over their base. 
• Doshalas: Also called Shoulder Mantles, these were sewn back to back in pairs, i.e. the under surfaces of the shawl were never seen. Doshalas had varied dimensions
• Patkas: These were like sashes, long and narrow. These too, like Doshalas, had varied dimensions
• Rumals: Square shawls were called Rumals.

How did Kashmiri Shawl look back then?

From the 17th century to the 18th century, the body of shawls was kept plain. There would be slight vertical borders that would run along the length of the shawl. But as time passed, designs filled the entire bodies of Kashmiri shawls and made them more extravagant. Hence came Jamawar shawls, which featured embroidery motifs all over the base and many more variants. Kani shawl was one of the biggest feats that Pashmina achieved. Kani shawls were the ones that caused a furore in the European markets after Empress Jopsehine set these to a timeless fashion.

Kashmiri shawls get colourful

When Kashmiri shawl making started, these shawls were kept as such, in their natural shades. Hence only brown, grey, white and black shawls were seen. But later, organic dyestuff was used to colour these shawls, and the Cashmere base took the dyes seamlessly. As many as 60 colours were used to dye Pashmina shawls, which looked even more ethereal with new and brilliant colours.

Motifs used in Pashmina shawl

Inspired by the Mughal era, and other influences, there are a number of popular motifs used on Kashmiri shawls:

• Buti: Buti is a tiny singular flower. A shawl on which this motif is embroidered is called a Bootidaar shawl. 
• Khat Rast: Khat rast is a pattern with stripes running along the length of the shawl. 
• Cypress: Cypress designs are those where a bunch of flowers emerge from a single stem. The stem showcases its roots also that spread far across the shawl. 
• Buta Design: Buta is a multi-floral. Butas are larger than Butis, and a shawl containing Butas looks more filled with embroidery than a bootidaar shawl.
• Zanjeer: Zanjeer literally means chain. This design features a horizontal border which encloses other famous motifs like paisley, flowers etc. 
• Badam, Ambe: This is the paisley motif and is called in different terms in different languages. 
• Shikargarh: This motif features hunting scenes which was a leisure time activity for Mughals. These shawls show jungle scenes and animal figures. 
• Hashi: A vertical border runs all around the shawl, and the four corners consist of a large singular motif inside the border.
• Floral Bouquets: Some Pashmina Shawls feature bunches of flowers without leaves. There is a large flower in the middle, which is surrounded by smaller ones. 

Patterns on Kashmiri Shawl

Kashmiri shawls hosted a number of patterns, the primary amongst them being embroidery. Embroidery done on these shawls was inspired by the Mughals who were the first ones to introduce these. Here are some famous embroideries done on Pashmina shawls:

• Sozni embroidery: Sozni Kari uses fine needles and silk threads to make labyrinthine designs on a Kashmiri Pashmina shawl. This fine embroidery was well chosen to embroider Pashmina shawls as the fine base couldn't bear the thick threads of Aari embroidery or crewel Kari. Sozni embroidery patterns are different. In some shawls the embroidery runs as a floral vine around the shawl, in some, it spreads as small Booti motifs, and in some, the entire base is filled with motifs, closely packed. 

• Tilla Embroidery: Locally known as Tilla Dozi, this type of embroidery used gold and silver threads to embroider Kashmiri shawls. These shawls were only afforded by the affluent and rich, as the price of Pashmina in addition to that of gold and silver became humongous. In the present times, Tilla is done by metal threads which are dipped in gold or silver, and the original metals aren't used anymore. 

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS IN MID-VICTORIAN NOVELS

More Patterns in Pashmina Shawl

Other than embroideries, Pashmina shawls used to be embellished in two more patterns. Kalamkari and Kani

• Kalamkari shawls took inspiration from Iran and the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. These shawls are hand-painted shawls, over which bamboo pens are used to draw patterns out of vegetable dyes. These hand-painted motifs are sometimes bordered with sozni embroidery. 
• Kani shawls: One of the most well-known and luxurious shawls of Kashmir has been the Kani shawl. This shawl is patterned during its weaving, and embroidery or painting is used. The warp threads are made from Cashmere, and the wefts threads are coloured ones which appear as motifs on the shawl on completion. 

Making of Kashmiri Shawl

The making of Pashmina shawls in Kashmir is a complicated process. Here is an overview of all the processes that go into the making of one shawl

Spinning: Spinning transforms twisted fibres into fine yarn which is possible to weave. The traditional method for spinning is the use of spinning wheels called Yinder locally. The yarn obtained from the Yinder is fine and exceptionally lightweight. Its diameter is just 12 to 16 microns. This yarn is sent to weavers for weaving into fabric.

Weaving: Weaving is done by men over a handloom over which the spun yarn is mounted. This yarn is hand woven for a few days to convert it into the fabric. This fabric can be Pashmina shawls, scarves, or wraps. These are then washed with natural soaps and sent for finishing.

Finishing: The washed shawl is tweezed, foreign threads are clipped, and the surface is smoothened by brushing it with a hard brush (locally known as Kasher). Uneven threads and superficial fibres are hence removed. 

Washing: The fabric then undergoes repeated washing which is done with spring water by expert washermen. 

Dyeing: If the fabric is required to be dyed in other shades it is dyed as per the demand.

Stretching: For a few days the fabric is stretched, and then packed in plastic bags for sale. 

Also read: FINEST CASHMERE IN THE HANDS OF ARTISANS

Threats to Pashmina 

The Pashmina industry is facing a crisis in the present times. 

• The area of Changthang, from where Cashmere is acquired, remains cut off from the world as a result of freezing temperatures and snow. Because of this inaccessibility from November to February, middlemen lose contact with herders. The herders, too, migrate to warmer areas and those with grazing lands close to the Chinese border along with their herds. Hence this loss of communication acts as a threat to the Cashmere trade, and hence that of Pashmina shawls. 
• Another threat to Pashmina making is the extremely cold temperature of Ladakh, which at times leads to the death of little ones amongst the herds. This has hit the nomads’ life as well as the production of Cashmere hard. 
• Effects of the power loom are proving fatal to the original art of Pashmina making. Power loom weaving of Pashmina involves mixing pure Cashmere threads with silk or nylon and then treating the same with harsh chemicals. The shawl prepared in such a way is in no way pure or soft like the pure Pashmina shawls. But since these are cheap and quickly processed, they pose a great threat to the original art. 
• A large number of weavers and spinners are switching to white-collar jobs for the reason of not getting enough compensation for their hard work. Owing to this, art no longer attracts the younger generation, and they opt for other means of livelihood.

Also read: THE TRAIL OF INDIA’S CASHMERE GOAT MEN

Concluding

We see that the glorious art of Pashmina which was once the first preference of women all over the world is losing its charm. What it needs is our love and support, for the art and its artists. For this reason, we at Pashmina.com elucubrate to bring back its lost grandeur and dignity. Working directly with artisans, paying them fair compensations in fair trade, acquiring the purest Pashmina from the original artisans for the art, and offering them to the real patrons of the art is the core function of this organisation. 

Also read: HOW WARM IS PASHMINA? TYPES OF WOOL

The first thing that comes to our minds, as soon as winter or fall arrives, is layering oneself with warm clothes. Anything that keeps us comfortable and warm in the colder seasons will automatically be the first preference as a nip fills the air. Woolen garments are a popular choice, apart from other varieties of tough and thick fabrics. But do we know our garments well? In modern times, consumers have become sensitive to what they are wearing. Now they care about where the apparel came from, and how has it been procured. And while Pashmina - the world-famous art form - generates the warmest apparel and wraps in the world, we compare it to other varieties like merino wool, angora and others. 

What actually is wool?

Many are confused about the definitions of types of wool and animal hair. Let's discuss these in detail. Wool is the outer layer of a sheep’s body. And that is the only thing that wool is! Hair on the other hand is the outer layer of the bodies of a few animals like goats, rabbits, alpacas, and others. Hence when we say wool, we mean the outer coat of a sheep. Hair, contrarily, is of two types - guard hair and undercoat. While guard hair protects the outer skin of the animal, the undercoat keeps it warm and safe from cold. Undercoats are fine, high-priced, and luxurious to use after processing. Cashmere, for example, is an undercoat of the Changthangi goat, and don't we all know how expensive and extravagant it is?

The discovery of this warm fibre

Historians date wool back to around 6000 BC. Wool was used in clothing since then. Ancient Iranians, according to some, reared sheep. Hence, they acquired it from the animals. The wool was processed to make a few apparel, wraps, and accessories like socks and mufflers. Since then wool, as well as goat hair, has evolved and spread across the fashion industry in hundreds of varieties. Now we have the luxury of choosing which kind of wool we want to wear, how it should be crafted (sustainable vs fast fashion), and what requirements of ours should it meet. Not just apparel, woolen home furnishing is also popular, as woolen curtains, beddings, rugs, and chair covers too are freely available.

Why do we prefer sheep fleece the most?

Women and men alike give wool their first preference for a number of reasons. Here are some of the reasons that make it the first winter thought:

• It is a durable fabric. Wool is water repellent too, which makes it absorb up to a third of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet
• It is a good insulator because of this moisture-absorbing property. 
• It takes dyes easily. Wool, as well as its nearest counterpart animal hair, both accept colour well
• The modern world demands recycling products for the betterment of the environment. And thankfully wool and hair, are both recyclable. 

Types of wool

Wool is classified into a number of varieties. These types of wool are based on softness, luxury factor, and warmth. And since wool is different from hair, clothing made from it is different from clothing made from animal hair

Here are the varieties.

Lambswool

It is the very first shearing session of sheep which produces the softest wool for the season. Lambs younger than seven months produce the best quality wool. Depending upon their health and breed type, sheep can produce as much as thirteen kg of wool. Whilst clothing uses a major portion of this, wool from certain sheep is strong enough to process into carpets and rugs. The softer version goes into apparel or fine wraps.

Merino Wool

The finest and the most squishy soft wool comes from Merino sheep and is hence called Merino wool. Merino wool is the most used in clothing. A few varieties of Merino wool are transformed into luxury clothing as its micron count is around 20. Apparel and wraps made from merino wool have a fine drape and a gorgeous appearance. 

Mohair

It is the exotic Angora goat that produces mohair. Mohair fibre has a good length. Long fibre induces a smooth touch, and hence garments made from Angora feel exceptionally soft and silky smooth. Mohair wool is best for making luxury dresses, baby clothing, fine sweaters, and scarves. 

Angora

The Angora rabbit produces angora. The fibre is immensely fine and soft, as it measures only 10-15 microns. Angora rabbits get a continuous combing, and by the end of the year, the total amount of hair weighs just 400 grams!

Qiviut

Native to the arctic, it is the large muskox that produces Qiviut. Qiviut is more expensive than sheep wool, and much softer too. It is 8 times warmer than sheep wool and does not shrink like ordinary wool does when in contact with water. The muskoxen shed their warm coat during their melting season. The herders have to comb their bodies for the wool. Some portion finds place around the surroundings. That is handpicked later. 

Pashmina

Pashmina is the art of transforming Cashmere into luxury apparel and accessories, especially shawls, which are called Pashmina shawls. Cashmere comes from the down coat of the Changthangi goat of Ladakh, which is processed to craft clothing and accessories. World famous for its soft touch, smooth texture, delicate finesse, and unparalleled warmth, Cashmere wool fibre measures just 12-16 microns.

Acquisition of Cashmere is labour intensive and it takes more than a week to fully acquire wool from the goat’s body by combing it. On top of that, one goat produces just 150 grams of Cashmere wool a year, and to craft one large-size Pashmina shawl for women out of Cashmere wool, it takes around 3-4 goats’ wool. This is the reason Pashmina shawls are expensive and exclusive. Pashmina wraps are more delicate as compared to sheep wool, but are around 8 times warmer than the same. But at the same time, Pashmina shawls are the most luxurious wraps and have a history of getting ancient royalty spellbound.

Also read: WHICH IS BETTER FLEECE OR CASHMERE?

Vicuna

Do you know what Vicuna is? Vicuna is a South American mammal, which produces the world’s rarest and most luxurious wool. It is even finer and warmer than Cashmere. The fibre is exceptionally delicate and fine. Artisans do not often dye it. Hence it is often in natural colours. At times, damage might occur after dye. Unfortunately, the number of these South American mammals is fast decreasing, and therefore, as a precautionary measure, their shearing too is done within limits.

How warm is Pashmina?

Pashmina shawls and apparel are 8 times warmer than sheep wool or merino. For the same reason, these are premium and hence sold at expensive rates. Not only is Cashmere warm and expensive, but it is also exceptionally graceful to look at, and lightweight and comfortable to carry. On the contrary, merino wraps won't look so beautiful and might feel thick and heavy at times. 

When it comes to softness, Pashmina shawls aren't just warm and cozy, but immensely softer than other types of wool. And even though a number of traders dip cheap shawls in fabric softeners to make them look like Pashmina shawls, the authentic pieces still remain unparalleled.

Although Pashmina wraps and apparel are exceptionally warm, they fail at durability when compared to sheep wool. The latter is sturdy, but Pashmina is delicate and fine. Cashmere shawls suffer wear and tear when used regularly. Nevertheless, this never decreases a tad in the enormous demand it has all over the world, and women love it exactly like they did centuries ago. 

Also read: FINEST CASHMERE IN THE HANDS OF ARTISANS