In the world of cruelty towards nature, there is a need for measures to be taken towards the environment while crafting natural wool from animals. The term "Sustainable" is a broader perspective of sustaining livelihood, environment, and labour. Defining the beauty of Pashmina, a sense of fashion comes naturally. Pashmina is the crafting of the finest Cashmere procured ethically from Changra goats by combing the extra wool out without harming the animal itself. This is one of the measures Pashmina Craft holds to secure the concept of Sustainable Fashion. We, at pashmina.com retain the concept of sustainable fashion by sustaining the environment while crafting any Pashmina accessory. In addition, we have the concept of sustaining the livelihood of Kashmiri artisans and empowering the women over there. Further, sustainability extends to each step of Crafting from procuring to designing.

The Finest Cashmere procured from Ladakh

Changthangi goat
Changthangi goats in Ladakh

A rare species of Goats known as Changthangi Goats have an undercoat of Pashmina wool around their bodies to prevent the harsh winters from entering their bodies. They are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. They develop the wool on their bodies while the winter is at its peak and the temperature goes to a minimum of minus 40 degrees Celsius. Eventually, when the season of winter changes to summer, the goats shed this wool off by rubbing it with rocks and barks. The herders also comb the excess wool off to sell in the market. Due to the rare species of Goats, the portion of Ladakhi Cashmere herders acquires is 80 to 160 gms a year. The wool is fine Cashmere wool. Without harming any animal, the wool thus procured ethically in the spring season.

Embroidered Shawl
Pashmina Shawl made of fibre from Changthangi goat

Further, the Goats produce the fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there are almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

Also read: WHY IS THE PASHMINA VERY THIN YET VERY WARM?

The Craft of Pashmina

Pashmina is the crafting of Ladakh Cashmere wool to several fine accessories through hand-processes in Kashmir. The finest Ladakhi Cashmere, crafted for many fine accessories of Cashmere through the Art of Pashmina. The artisans work meticulously on each and every piece of fine Cashmere. When the tufts of Cashmere wool reach Kashmir from Ladakh, the wool is cleaned, soaked, and dried to free from any impurity. Thus, the Cashmere wool undergoes the first process of Pashmina Art. Afterward, the fine and cleaned Cashmere, ransferred to the local houses for the process of Spinning.

The process of Spinning is transforming fine Cashmere wool into Cashmere yarn. The women in the households perform the precise process of Spinning. The Spinning process needs patience and precision. While humming the traditional Kashmir songs, the women meticulously spin the Cashmere wool on a wooden wheel called yinder. Therefore, the Cashmere yarn thus formed to make it go forward to the next intricate process of Weaving.

weaving cashmere
Artisan weaving Pashmina on yinder

Afterward, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the conversion of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively the masterpiece in itself.

Also read: IS REAL CASHMERE EXPENSIVE?

In the world of exquisite textiles, Kani shawls stand as a testament to the timeless beauty of traditional craftsmanship and the rich cultural heritage of the Kashmir Valley. These shawls are not merely pieces of clothing; but works of art, created painstakingly by skilled artisans who have honed their craft over generations. In this blog, we delve into the captivating world of Kani shawls, unraveling their history, the intricate weaving process, and their enduring significance.

A Glimpse into Kashmir's Rich Textile Tradition

Kani Shawl
Baaraan is a confluence of two non pareil art forms of Kashmir - Kani and Pashmina

Kani shawls trace their origins to the picturesque region of Kashmir, nestled amidst the Himalayan mountains. Known for its stunning landscapes and serene beauty, Kashmir has long been a cradle of art, culture, and craftsmanship. In fact, the valley's textile tradition dates back over centuries, with skilled artisans producing a variety of exquisite fabrics and garments.

Kashmiri textiles, renowned for their quality and intricate designs, have garnered fame and admiration across the globe. But among these textiles, Kani shawls hold a special place, celebrated for their unparalleled beauty and meticulous craftsmanship

Ancient Beginnings: History of Kani shawls

The origins of Kani shawls go back to the 15th century Kashmir Valley, a region famous for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant cultural heritage. The art of weaving in Kashmir dates back over a thousand years, and Kani shawls have played a prominent role in this heritage.

Historians believe that Persian artisans introduced the craft of Kani shawl weaving in Kashmir. In fact, these artisans migrated to the region in as early as the 15th century. They brought with them the intricate weaving technique that would become synonymous with Kani shawls.

Fact: The term "Kani" comes from the Persian word "Qan," meaning "reed," referring to the small wooden bobbins used in the weaving process.

Renaissance and Royal Patronage of Kani

A Muslim shawl-making family shown in Cashmere shawl manufactory, 1867, chromolith., William Simpson.
A Muslim shawl-making family shown in Cashmere shawl manufactory, 1867, chromolith., William Simpson.

The 17th and 18th centuries marked a period of flourishing artistry in Kashmir, with Kani shawl production reaching its zenith. It was during this time that the Mughal emperors, particularly Emperor Akbar and his successors, played a pivotal role in elevating the art of Kani shawl weaving.

Under royal patronage, Kani shawls became highly prized possessions, adorning the shoulders of nobility and royalty. The Mughals, known for their appreciation of fine craftsmanship, also recognized the exceptional beauty and artistry of these shawls. They became valuable diplomatic gifts, exchanged between rulers and dignitaries, further fueling the demand for Kani shawls.

The Art of Kani Shawl Weaving

making of kani pashmina
Making of Kani Pashmina shawl

The hallmark of Kani shawls is their intricate weave. And that is characterized by the use of wooden bobbins, or "kanis," to create complex patterns. The process involves meticulous planning and precision as each kani corresponds to a single thread in the shawl's design.

Artisans, often working on traditional handlooms, carefully follow a pattern charted out on graph paper. The bobbins, each carrying a specific color, are deftly inserted and pulled through the warp threads, weaving a symphony of colors and motifs. The patterns range from traditional floral and paisley designs to more contemporary and innovative styles.

Decline and Revival of Kani shawls

The 19th century brought challenges to the Kani shawl industry. Political upheaval and changing tastes led to a decline in demand, and the intricate weaving process faced competition from other, faster textile production methods.

However, Kani shawls did not fade into obscurity. A revival of interest in traditional crafts and heritage textiles in the 20th century breathed new life into the art of Kani shawl weaving. Additionally, artisans and enthusiasts, recognizing the historical and artistic significance of these shawls, worked to preserve and promote the craft.

Legacy and Cultural Significance

Today, Kani shawls continue to be popular as symbols of luxury, elegance, and Kashmiri heritage. They are, in fact, heirlooms, passed down through generations, and patrons wear them on special occasions and celebrations. The craft of Kani shawl weaving has also been recognized and protected as a geographical indication (GI) under Indian law, further cementing its significance.

In a world marked by mass production, Kani shawls stand as a testament to the enduring allure of handmade, artisanal creations. Moreover, they serve as a bridge connecting the past and the present, embodying the history, culture, and artistic excellence of Kashmir.

As we wrap ourselves in the intricate beauty of a Kani shawl, we become part of a legacy that transcends time and place—a legacy that celebrates the enduring artistry of human hands and the timeless allure of tradition. Each Kani shawl is not just a piece of clothing. It is, in fact, a work of art that weaves together the threads of history and culture, enveloping us in its warmth and beauty.

Process of making Kani shawls

The creation of Kani shawls is a labor-intensive and intricate process. Artisans have, in fact, perfected it over centuries in the Kashmir Valley. These shawls are not just garments; they are exquisite works of art that require meticulous planning, precision, and a deep understanding of the craft. Let's embark on a journey through the process of crafting Kani shawls, from selecting the finest materials to weaving intricate designs

Step 1: Selection of finest Cashmere

The selection of the finest Cashmere for crafting Kani shawls in Kashmir is a meticulous and crucial process, as Pashmina is popular for its exceptional softness, warmth, and luxury. Here's how artisans and manufacturers ensure the highest quality Cashmere for Kani shawls.

Goat Breed

cashmere goat
Changthangi goat in Ladakh region of Himalayas

Cashmere wool comes from the undercoat of Changthangi goats, native to the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas. The selection begins with the choice of the finest Changthangi goats, known for their ultra-fine and soft undercoats. Hence, to start with, herders raise these goats in the cold climates of Ladakh and Tibet, which contribute to the development of their luxurious fleece.

Seasonal Collection

Pashmina goats moult their winter coats during the spring. This is the prime time to collect Cashmere fibres as they are at their softest and finest during this period. Herders carefully separate the collected fibres from the coarse outer hair.

Fibre Fineness

The quality of Cashmere is largely determined by the fineness of its fibres, measured in microns. Surprisingly, the finest Cashmere fibres can be as low as 12-15 microns in diameter, making them incredibly soft. Skilled artisans and experts use special instruments to measure the fineness and quality of the fibres.

Ethical and Sustainable Practices

cashmere goats in ladakh
Changthangi goats in Ladakh with the herder

Ethical considerations are paramount in Cashmere production. To protect the fragile Himalayan ecosystem and ensure the well-being of the goats, herders practice responsible herding and grazing practices. Additionally, sustainable and eco-friendly methods are emphasized to maintain the purity of the environment.

Hand-Combing

Changthangi goat being combed
Changthangi goat being gently combed

The traditional method of collecting Cashmere fibres involves hand-combing the goats. This gentle process ensures that only the softest and finest undercoat fibres are collected while preserving the health of the animals. Hand-combed Cashmere is highly popular for its quality.

Sorting and Cleaning

Raw cashmere fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

After collection, artisans meticulously sort the Cashmere fibres to remove any impurities, coarse hair, and foreign matter. Once again, it is the meticulous womenfolk who carry out cleaning to eliminate any dirt or residual oils, maintaining the purity and softness of the wool.

Craftsmanship

Skilled artisans and weavers play a critical role in preserving the quality of Cashmere wool throughout the weaving process. It is their expertise that ensures that the yarn is handled with care, hence maintaining its softness and luxurious feel.

Dyeing

Dyeing the Cashmere yarn
Dyeing the cashmere yarn

If the shawl needs colour, dyers dye the Cashmere yarn using natural or eco-friendly dyes. The dyeing process is carefully monitored, thus ensuring that the softness and quality of the Pashmina remain uncompromised.

Quality Control

Throughout the production process, professionals implement rigorous quality control measures. The final yarn is examined for any imperfections, consistency, and overall quality before it is deemed suitable for Kani shawl weaving.

Step 2: Design Selection

Design creation in the making of Kani shawls is a meticulous and artistic process. In fact, this process combines traditional patterns with contemporary innovation. These shawls are famous for their intricate and ornate designs, which often feature motifs inspired by nature, Persian influences, and cultural symbolism.

The design process typically begins with the artistic vision of the master craftspeople or designers who specialize in Kani shawl patterns. These individuals draw from a deep well of tradition and cultural influences to envision unique and captivating designs. Once the concept for a new Kani shawl design takes shape, weavers meticulously chart it out on graph paper. Each square on the graph corresponds to a single "Kani," which is a wooden bobbin weavers use in the weaving process. It is this particular graph that serves as a visual blueprint for the weavers henceforth.

Selection of motifs:

Many Kani shawls draw inspiration from traditional Kashmiri motifs and patterns. These can include:

Once the design is finalized, it is translated into a weaving pattern. The graph paper with the design chart acts as a guide, and each Kani bobbin corresponds to a specific thread in the warp. Then, the weaver follows the pattern meticulously, inserting the bobbins to create the intricate design.

Step 3: Bobbin Preparation in Kani Shawls

The artistry of crafting Kani shawls in Kashmir extends beyond the loom to the meticulous preparation of the wooden Kani bobbins. In fact, these seemingly unassuming tools play a pivotal role in the creation of these exquisite shawls, and their preparation is a labor of love and dedication.

1. Selection of Wood:

To begin with, a careful selection of wood is done for the Kani bobbins. Craftsmen typically choose hardwoods known for their durability and smooth texture. Chinar wood, a type of maple native to Kashmir, is popular for its fine grain and workability. Later, workers most often use this wood to move to the next step.

2. Shaping and Crafting:

Once workers select wood, it undergoes skilled craftsmanship to shape it into the iconic bobbin form. Each bobbin is meticulously crafted to have a slender body and a tapered end, allowing it to hold and release the yarn smoothly during weaving.

3. Polishing and Smoothing:

Post shaping, workers polish the bobbins to perfection. For this, skilled artisans use sandpaper and abrasive materials to smooth the surface of each bobbin. This step is crucial to prevent any rough spots or splinters that could snag the delicate yarn during weaving.

4. Sizing and Calibration:

Consistency is key in Kani shawl weaving. Hence, to ensure that each bobbin carries the precise amount of yarn needed for the design, workers size and calibrate them. The artisans use their expertise to calculate the ideal size and weight for each bobbin, aligning them with the specific design requirements.

5. Yarn Attachment:

With the bobbins shaped, polished, and calibrated, they are ready to receive the colorful yarn. Consequently, each bobbin is designated for a particular color in the design. Artisans, then, meticulously wind the dyed yarn onto the bobbins. This process requires a keen eye for detail to ensure that the colors align perfectly with the pattern.

Step 4: Warp Setting in Kani Shawls

The artistry of crafting Kani shawls in Kashmir is a testament to precision and attention to detail. Moreover, it is one of the critical phases in this intricate process is the warp setting. On a specialized loom, artisans meticulously arrange the warp, which constitutes the lengthwise threads of the shawl, hence, setting the stage for the intricate weaving that follows.

The first step in warp setting is the choice of an appropriate loom. Weavers typically weave Kani shawls on traditional handlooms specially designed for this craft. They choose these looms for their stability and the precise control the looms offer over thread placement. The design previously charted out on graph paper, serves as a graphical blueprint for the warp set. Each square on the graph corresponds to a single "Kani" bobbin, which will carry a specific color of yarn. Again, the graph guides the weavers in placing the bobbins with precision.

Consequently, the artisans prepare the loom's warp frame for the warp setting process. The number of threads required for the shawl's width is determined based on the design's dimensions. Skilled artisans carefully measure and align the threads, and evenly space them. The heart of warp setting is the placement of individual warp threads. Hence, artisans meticulously position each thread on the loom according to the design's requirements. The artisans follow the graph paper pattern closely, threading each warp thread through the appropriate heddle, a mechanism used to control thread movement.

Placement of Bobbins and movement of heddles

Simultaneously, artisans alocate the Kani bobbins to their respective warp threads. This allocation is precise, with each bobbin corresponding to a specific color and position in the design. The bobbins are prepared to release the yarn smoothly during weaving. Maintaining proper tension in the warp threads is critical for consistent weaving. Therefore, artisans carefully adjust the tension of each warp thread to ensure uniformity. Subsequently, proper tension control prevents weaving irregularities and uneven patterns.

The weaver manipulates the heddles to raise and lower specific warp threads according to the design. This controlled movement of the warp threads creates the shed, a temporary opening through which the weft (crosswise threads) will be passed using the Kani bobbins. The weaver's expertise comes to the forefront during warp setting as they translate the graph's design into the arrangement of warp threads. The precision of thread placement ensures that the Kani shawl's intricate patterns and motifs will henceforth be accurately woven.

Step 5: Weaving the Shawl

Shawl Weaving in Kashmir
Artisan weaving Kani Pashmina Shawl

The weaving of a Kani shawl is a captivating dance of precision and artistry. Undoubtedly, skilled artisans transform carefully arranged warp threads into intricate patterns and designs. This time-consuming and labor-intensive endeavor showcases the dedication and craftsmanship that go into each Kani shawl.

As the weaver begins the weaving process, they follow the design chart with unwavering attention. Each Kani bobbin, with its designated color, awaits its turn in the choreography of threads. With each insertion, the bobbin is guided into the shed, a temporary opening created by manipulating the heddles that control the warp threads.

The weaver pulls the bobbin through the shed, gently carrying its coloured thread with it. This delicate act requires precise timing and coordination, and artisans ensure that the design takes shape flawlessly. Later, the weft thread interlocks with the warp threads, creating the intricate patterns and motifs that adorn the shawl.

Artisans repeat this process methodically, row after row, across the entire width of the shawl. The weaver's skilled hands move with a rhythmic grace, introducing each bobbin at the exact moment required by the design. Clearly, this meticulous attention to detail ensures that the colors blend seamlessly, creating a symphony of hues and patterns

Step 6: Finishing Touches

The finishing touches to a Kani shawl are the culmination of the meticulous craftsmanship and artistry that define this exquisite textile. Following the intricate weaving process, the shawl undergoes a series of essential finishing steps, each contributing to its ultimate beauty and quality.

Washing and Cleansing

The first step in the finishing process involves a thorough washing of the newly woven shawl. This gentle cleansing removes any residual oils, dirt, or impurities that may have accumulated during weaving. Washers wash the shawl in cool, clear water, ensuring that the natural fibers retain their softness and luster.

Stretching and Blocking

To bring out the shawl's true dimensions and to ensure uniformity, workers particularly stretch and block it. Skilled artisans use specialized frames or boards to delicately manipulate the shawl into its desired shape and size. This process, hence, requires precision to maintain the integrity of the design.

Quality Inspection

Every Kani shawl undergoes a rigorous quality inspection. Artisans meticulously examine the shawl for loose threads, imperfections in the weave, or any irregularities that may have occurred during the weaving process. Professionals expertly correct any issues, ensuring that the final product is flawless.

Pressing and Ironing

After artisans stretch, block, and inspect the shawl, they then carefully press and iron it. This step helps to set the shawl's shape and smooth out any wrinkles or creases, resulting in a polished and refined appearance

Why is Kani shawl expensive?

The iconic Kani shawls are, unquestionably, associated with royalty. These shawls grace the wardrobes of those who appreciate the pinnacle of craftsmanship and quality. However, their regal allure is mirrored by their high price tag. Let's delve into the myriad factors that make Kani shawls expensive. We will also reveal why Kani shawls from Kashmir are one of the most coveted textiles in the world.

Meticulous Handwork:

The foremost reason behind the high cost of Kani shawls is the sheer amount of meticulous handwork that goes into crafting each piece. These shawls are handwoven. Therefore, every thread is carefully placed by skilled artisans. Moreover, the weaving process is intricate and time-consuming, with each shawl taking weeks or even months to complete. The artisans, too, follow a detailed pattern chart, inserting hundreds of wooden bobbins (known as "Kanis") to create intricate designs. This level of craftsmanship demands immense skill, precision, and dedication, which, obviously, drives up the labor cost.

Exclusive Materials:

Kani shawls are often made from the premium and the highly coveted Pashmina. Pashmina comes from the undercoat of Himalayan goats. Not only are these natural fibers famous for their exceptional softness, but also for their warmth and quality. The careful selection, preparation, and use of these premium materials contribute significantly to the overall cost of the shawl.

Heritage and Tradition:

The art of Kani shawl weaving has been passed down through generations in Kashmir. It's a time-honored tradition that has deep roots in the region's culture and history. The expertise required to create these shawls is, in fact, a culmination of centuries of refinement and skill. This heritage adds to the shawls' value, as they are not just garments but tangible pieces of Kashmiri culture and history.

Labor-Intensive Process:

Beyond the weaving, the entire production process of Kani shawls is labor-intensive. From the preparation of the wooden bobbins to the finishing touches, skilled artisans invest countless hours in creating each shawl. This commitment to handcraftsmanship results in a unique piece of wearable art but also contributes to the higher cost.

Limited Production:

The production of Kani shawls is limited by the availability of skilled artisans and the time-consuming nature of the craft. Each artisan can produce only a few shawls per year, and the limited supply further drives up the price, especially for rare or highly intricate designs.

Design Complexity:

The intricate designs that adorn Kani shawls require a high degree of skill and precision. Complex motifs, detailed patterns, and the use of numerous colors make these shawls works of art. The time and effort invested in perfecting these designs add to their cost.

Ethical Practices:

Many Kani shawl producers adhere to ethical and sustainable practices, which can increase production costs. These practices include responsible sourcing of materials, fair wages for artisans, and environmentally friendly dyeing processes. While this commitment to ethical production is commendable, it can add to the final price of the shawl.

Quality Assurance:

Kani shawls undergo stringent quality control measures at various stages of production. Professionals carefully inspect each shawl for imperfections and irregularities. They ensure that only the highest-quality pieces reach the market. This commitment to quality adds to the overall cost.

Cultural and Historical Significance:

Kani shawls hold significant cultural and historical importance in Kashmir and beyond. They have been worn by royalty and esteemed individuals throughout history. This prestige and cultural significance contribute to their high value in the market.

Rarity and Collectibility:

Due to the limited production and the unique nature of Kani shawls, they often become collector's items. Those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship are willing to invest in these shawls, further increasing their value.

Also read: FINEST CASHMERE - AN ELEGANCE OF PASHMINA

Conclusion

Kani Pashmina Shawl
Crafted manually over wooden hand looms of Kashmir, in the royal realms of Kani weave, the shawl is a true representation of how immensely graceful traditions can be

Kani shawls are a testament to the intersection of art, culture, and luxury. Their high cost is justified by the exceptional craftsmanship, premium materials, and historical significance that each shawl embodies. Beyond being garments, Kani shawls are wearable pieces of artistry, and for those who appreciate the dedication and skill behind their creation, they are well worth the investment.

Also read: WHY IS THE PASHMINA VERY THIN YET VERY WARM?

In the world of fashion, where trends rise and fall like tides, certain fabrics stand as timeless testaments to elegance, luxury, and artistry. One such fabric that has captivated hearts for centuries is Cashmere, which goes into making Pashmina. Cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of Himalayan mountain goats. Artisans process it to make Pashmina shawls, wraps, scarves, and accessories. Undoubtedly, Pashmina exudes an otherworldly softness and warmth. Its features transcended generations and cultural boundaries. Beyond its tactile allure, Pashmina's story connects with history and craftsmanship. Moreover, Pashmina has an enduring connection to the picturesque land from which it originates.

Pashmina - a Legacy of Craftsmanship

changthangi goat being combed
Changthangi goat gently being combed

The journey of Pashmina begins high in the Himalayas. This is a region where the Changthangi goats endure harsh winters to develop a fine inner fleece. This fleece is the Cashmere, and it protects them from the cold. Once spring arrives, skilled herders carefully comb the undercoat from the goats, yielding the precious raw material. Artisans later transform this material into the luxurious fabric we know as Pashmina.

The transition from fleece to fabric is where the true artistry begins. Firstly, exceptionally skillful artisans are painstakingly sort, clean, and hand-spin raw Cashmere fibres. This meticulous process yields threads of exceptional fineness, essential to the fabric's unmatched softness and texture. Artisans then weave the threads into intricate patterns on traditional handlooms, a labour-intensive process that demands precision and patience. The rhythmic clatter of the loom echoes the centuries-old traditions carried forward by generations of artisans.

The comfort of Pashmina

The allure of Pashmina lies not only in its visual aesthetics but also in its tactile experience. When draped against the skin, the sensation is akin to a gentle caress from a spring breeze. The fabric's lightweight and breathable nature make it an ideal choice for a range of climates. Whether wrapped around the shoulders on a chilly evening or elegantly tied as a scarf, Pashmina envelops the wearer in a cocoon of comfort and luxury.

Pashmina's versatility is further accentuated by its adaptability to various weaving techniques and designs. From classic paisley motifs to intricate jacquard patterns and modern geometric designs, Pashmina shawls offer a canvas for artistic expression. Hence, it is the vibrancy of colours, the interplay of light, and the intricate weaves that make each piece unmatched. Hence, Pashmina is not just an accessory but a wearable masterpiece.

Cultural Pashmina reaches the world

Pashmina's significance transcends its material attributes. Additionally, it embodies cultural heritage and artistic expression. Originating in the Kashmir region of India and stretching into Nepal, Cashmere carries with it the traditions, stories, and craftsmanship of these lands. It's no wonder that patrons often call Cashmere fibre "soft gold,". This owes to its historical importance and the dedication required to produce it.

Throughout history, Pashmina has adorned royalty, dignitaries, and celebrities. Its regal aura and delicate beauty make it an emblem of opulence and refinement. From Mughal emperors to modern fashion icons, Pashmina's allure has remained unwavering.

Empress Josephine in Kani pashmina Shawl
Empress Josephine in Pashmina Shawl

In recent years, Pashmina has garnered global attention and admiration. The fascination with artisanal craftsmanship, sustainable luxury, and unique textiles has fueled a resurgence in demand for Pashmina products. The discerning consumer of today seeks not just a product but a story – a connection to the hands and the traditions that brought it to life.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS DURING THE DOGRA PERIOD

Traditional Art and Modern Trends

As with any art form rooted in tradition, the preservation of Pashmina's legacy faces challenges. For example, rapid industrialization and changing market dynamics have at times jeopardized the livelihood of the artisans. These are the same artisans who dedicate their lives to its creation. Recognizing this, organizations have put in efforts to ensure fair wages, sustainable practices, and the continuation of traditional skills. Furthermore, these organizations and initiatives work tirelessly to educate consumers about the value of authentic Pashmina. People are now aware of the impact of their choices on the lives of artisans.

Also read: 15 BOLLYWOOD CELEBRITIES WHO ROCKED THEIR LOOKS WITH A PASHMINA SHAWL

The Timeless Art

Pashmina shawl
We confer on the uniqueness of précised craft of Pashmina that delivers luxury all over the cascade of fashion

In a world defined by fast fashion and fleeting trends, Pashmina stands as an emblem of timelessness. Its beauty transcends eras, seasons, and cultural shifts. Clearly, every Pashmina shawl, scarf, or wrap is not merely a piece of fabric; it's a labour of love, a tapestry of tradition, and a testament to the human spirit's capacity for artistry.

The beauty of Pashmina doesn't just lie in its delicate Cashmere fibres; it lies in the stories it weaves, the hands that craft it, and the hearts it touches. From the snowy peaks of the Himalayas to the bustling fashion capitals of the world, Pashmina's allure continues to enchant. The art indeed reminds us that true beauty is timeless, enduring, and eternally elegant.

How is Pashmina so fine?

In the realm of luxurious fabrics, few can match the ethereal softness and delicate touch of Pashmina. Derived from the underbelly of Himalayan mountain goats, Pashmina indeed stands as a testament to nature's artistry and the skilled hands that transform it into a fabric of unparalleled refinement. The journey from goat to garment is a remarkable tale that unveils the secrets behind Pashmina's extraordinary fineness and delicacy.

The Origins

cashmere goats in ladakh
Changthangi goats in the Ladakh region of the Himalayas

Pashmina's journey begins in the harsh terrains of the Himalayas, a place which the Changthangi goats inhabit. The goats, also known as the Pashmina goats, adapt to extreme cold by developing a fine undercoat. As winter approaches, these goats naturally shed this inner fleece, which serves as an insulation layer. The intricate combination of nature's design and the goats' adaptation results in a fibre that is astonishingly fine and incredibly soft.

The process of collecting Cashmere involves careful shearing or combing of the goats' undercoat. This delicate task requires the expertise of skilled herders. These are the individuals who ensure that the fibre is harvested with minimal impact on the animals. Artisans then process the collected hair to remove impurities and prepare it for spinning.

Hand-Spinning Cashmere

spinning cashmere
Artisan spinning the cashmere

One of the defining characteristics of Cashmere is its exceptional fineness. Workers achieve it through the meticulous process of hand-spinning. They gently clean and sort the fibre, and make sure to only choose the finest strands for the subsequent stages. These selected fibres are then painstakingly hand-spun into threads. It's a process that requires patience, precision, and a deep understanding of the material.

Hand-spinning Cashmere is an art. Hence, generations have passed it down amongst themselves. It's a skill that transforms raw material into delicate threads of extraordinary quality. The resultant threads are incredibly thin, each one a testament to the artisans' dedication to preserving the intrinsic qualities of Pashmina.

Weaving Pashmina

The threads spun from Cashmere fibres are then woven into fabric on traditional handlooms. The weaving process further enhances the fabric's delicate texture. This is after the fine threads are meticulously intertwined to create intricate patterns and designs. This combination of fine spinning and intricate weaving contributes to the luxurious feel and drape of this fabric.

weaving cashmere
Artisan weaving Pashmina on the traditional wooden handloom

The traditional weaving techniques used for Pashmina have been honed over centuries. This has resulted in a fabric that is not only exquisitely soft but also visually captivating. The unique combination of craftsmanship and natural fibres lends Pashmina its characteristic drape and shimmer. Hence, it is these features that make it a favorite among connoisseurs of luxury textiles.

Tradition and Craftsmen

Pashmina's fineness and delicacy are a result of the harmonious interplay between nature's gift and human artistry. Skilled artisans, often hailing from families with a long history of working with Pashmina, infuse each step of the process with their expertise and dedication. From combing the goats and hand-spinning the fibres to weaving them into intricate patterns, evidently, every stage is a testament to the artisans' commitment to maintaining the fabric's quality and finesse.

The artistry lies not only in the technical aspects but also in the ability to create a fabric that captures the essence of the Himalayan region. Pashmina is more than just a luxurious textile; it's a cultural treasure that embodies the traditions, stories, and heritage of the people who craft it.

Preserving the Tradition

As with many traditional crafts, the art of Pashmina faces challenges in the modern world. The demand for quicker and cheaper alternatives has at times threatened the livelihoods of the artisans. The threat extends to the authenticity of the fabric. However, there is a growing awareness of the importance of preserving this art form and supporting sustainable practices.

Efforts are being made to educate consumers about the value of authentic Pashmina; and the impact of their choices on the artisans and their communities. Not only this, but organizations and initiatives are also working to ensure fair wages, ethical practices, and the continuation of traditional skills. This helps in securing the future of this exceptional craft.

Between Nature and Mankind

natural fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

The fine and delicate nature of Pashmina is a harmonious collaboration between nature's gift and human artistry. From the high altitudes of the Himalayas to the skilled hands of artisans, Cashmere undergoes a transformation that results in a fabric of unparalleled elegance and sophistication. Moreover, its extraordinary fineness, softness, and delicate texture are a testament to the dedication, patience, and skill of the individuals who weave this fabric into existence.

Pashmina's allure lies not only in its tactile qualities but also in the stories it carries and the traditions it upholds. It is a reminder that amidst the fast-paced world of fashion, there are timeless treasures that continue to captivate and inspire, bridging the gap between the past and the present. Each Pashmina garment is indeed a tangible embodiment of nature's beauty and human ingenuity. This makes it a fabric that transcends trends and speaks to the heart of those who appreciate true craftsmanship.

How is Pashmina fine yet warm?

In the world of textiles, the paradox of being both fine and warm seems like an inherent contradiction. But, in the realm of luxury fabrics, Pashmina stands out for precisely embodying this duality. Derived from the delicate underbelly of Himalayan mountain goats, Pashmina unquestionably showcases a unique harmony between its exquisite fineness and its remarkable warmth. The intriguing interplay of nature's design, fibre structure, and human craftsmanship unravels the mystery of how Pashmina achieves this remarkable balance, making it a coveted treasure in the world of fashion.

Where was Pashmina born?

The tale of Pashmina begins in the high-altitude regions of the Himalayas, where the Changthangi goats endure harsh winters by developing an inner fleece, known as Pashm. This fine undercoat is a natural adaptation to the extreme cold, serving as insulation against the chilling temperatures. As spring arrives, the goats naturally shed this fleece, and it is this downy underbelly that forms the raw material for the exquisite fabric.

The fineness of Cashmere fibres can be attributed to nature's ingenious blueprint. The cold environment triggers the goats to grow a coat that consists of incredibly thin and fine fibres. This natural selection process ensures that the fibres are as fine as possible, allowing the goats to stay warm without carrying excess weight. These fibres are the key to Pashmina's unmatched softness and delicacy.

Pashmina: The Fibre Structure

The science behind Pashmina's warmth lies in its unique fibre structure. Under a microscope, Pashmina fibres appear as cylindrical tubes with a hollow core. This hollow core acts as an insulator, trapping air and creating a buffer against external temperatures. This natural insulation property is responsible for the remarkable warmth that Pashmina provides, despite its fine and lightweight nature.

The hollow core structure is a natural adaptation that allows the Changthangi goats to thrive in extreme cold. The trapped air prevents the loss of body heat and ensures that the goats remain warm in even the harshest conditions. This same structure translates into fabric, making it a perfect choice for winter wear.

The Critical Contribution of Craftsmanship

making of pashmina
The process of crafting Pashmina

The process of transforming Cashmere fibres into luxurious fabric involves a delicate balance of craftsmanship and skill. After being meticulously cleaned and sorted, the fibres are hand-spun into threads of exceptional fineness. These threads are then woven into intricate patterns using traditional handlooms. The meticulous weaving process further enhances Pashmina's warmth by creating a fabric with a dense weave that traps air effectively.

The artisans who craft the fabric understand its unique qualities and work to enhance its warmth through their weaving techniques. The close-knit weave, combined with the insulating properties of the hollow core fibres, results in a fabric that not only retains body heat but also provides an enveloping comfort that is synonymous with luxury.

The breathability of the Fabric

Despite being renowned for its warmth, Pashmina is surprisingly versatile in its ability to provide comfort across different seasons. This is due to its exceptional breathability – a quality that sets it apart from many other warm fabrics. The fine fibres allow air to circulate freely, preventing the wearer from feeling overheated. This breathability ensures that Pashmina is not only suitable for cold winters but also comfortable during milder temperatures.

During winter, Pashmina's natural insulation keeps you cozy without causing you to overheat. In spring and fall, its breathability prevents discomfort from sweating while providing a gentle layer of warmth. This adaptability makes Pashmina a true year-round companion, adjusting to your body's needs and the surrounding climate.

The Luxury of Choice

Within the world of Pashmina, the balance between fineness and warmth comes to life in various forms. Pashmina scarves, shawls, wraps, and blankets offer a range of choices for those seeking luxury and comfort. The same balance of fine fibres, hollow core structure, and intricate weaving techniques apply to each of these variations, ensuring that the essence of Pashmina is present in every product.

Pashmina shawls

pashmina shawl
Handcrafted from the downy Cashmere acquired from Ladakh, the shawl hosts a combination of thick and labyrinthine embroidery types which overflow exquisitely from the base

A symbol of timeless sophistication, drapes gracefully over shoulders, making a statement of elegance for any occasion. These are large-sized (100*200 cm) wraps that women often wear over their dresses for comfortable warmth. The intricate craftsmanship that goes into weaving these shawls ensures a piece that is both delicate and durable, exuding a blend of luxury and tradition.

Cashmere scarves

cashmere scarf
These handmade treasures are woven in the classic diamond weave to maintain the natural hand feel of the fabric

Scarves crafted from Cashmere are a fusion of style and substance. These have a lesser width (200 cm *35cm) when compared to shawls and are usually tied around the neck for warmth and style. These accessories offer a touch of refined warmth, transforming even the simplest ensemble into a fashion statement. Cashmere scarves are often worn by working men and women to offices, as these form a part of luxury formal fashion. The intricate patterns and vibrant colours showcase the artisan's dedication to perfection, making each scarf a wearable work of art.

Also read: AESTHETE OF MEN'S CASHMERE SCARVES

Cashmere Wraps

kani pashmina
Enliven your monochromatic office wear with the freshness of this green wrap handcrafted from luxury Cashmere

Wraps made from Cashmere serve as versatile companions, seamlessly adapting to various styles and needs. They measure a comparatively lesser 80*28 cm, with respect to the larger size of Pashmina shawls. Whether elegantly tied around the neck, draped over the arms, or worn loosely over the shoulders, Cashmere wraps are the epitome of comfort meeting elegance. The lightweight yet insulating nature of Cashmere ensures a cozy embrace in any setting.

Pashmina Blankets

Pashmina blankets redefine luxury in the realm of home textiles. The fine fibres of Pashmina provide a gentle caress, creating an unparalleled sense of comfort and indulgence. These blankets transcend their utilitarian purpose, becoming heirlooms that embody the warmth of both the material and the emotions they evoke. Pashmina blankets look amazing when placed over couches or sofas like a throw, or over bed corners for an extra touch of luxury.

The Ethical Art: Sustainable Fashion and Pashmina

As the demand for Pashmina continues to grow, concerns about sustainability and ethical practices come to the forefront. Responsible sourcing and production are essential to ensure that the delicate balance between nature's elegance and human artistry is maintained. Efforts are being made to support fair wages, ethical practices, and the well-being of the artisans who contribute to Pashmina's creation.

Nature, Luxury, and Warmth

Pashmina's ability to be both fine and warm is a reflection of nature's ingenious design and human craftsmanship. From the cold Himalayan heights to the hands of skilled artisans, this fabric embodies a delicate equilibrium that marries exquisite luxury with remarkable functionality. Its exceptional fineness, the hollow core structure of its fibres, and the craftsmanship that transforms them into fabric create a harmonious blend of warmth and elegance.

Whether wrapped around the shoulders on a frosty day or worn loosely during a cool evening, Pashmina offers a tactile and sensory experience that defies expectations. It is a textile that dances between contrasts, a testament to the marvels of nature and the skillful hands that celebrate its beauty.

Conclusion

As we've delved into the world of this remarkable fabric, we've uncovered the secrets behind its unique warmth and delicate fineness. The story of Pashmina is one of nature's grace, artisanal skill, and a touch of magic. Its warmth, despite its fine and lightweight nature, is a testament to the remarkable adaptability of the Himalayan goats that provide exquisite fibres. Nature, in its wisdom, equips these animals to brave the harshest of climates, fostering the growth of a soft, insulating undercoat. This undercoat, the essence of Pashmina, becomes a shield against the chill of high altitudes, while its fine fibres trap air and retain heat, cocooning those who wrap themselves in its embrace

In a world where luxury often comes at the cost of bulkiness, Pashmina defies conventions. Its delicate touch against the skin belies its ability to provide a cocoon of warmth, a reminder that true luxury need not be cumbersome. Pashmina stands as a symbol of nature's ingenuity and humanity's craftsmanship, a true fusion of elegance and functionality.

So, as you wrap yourself in the ethereal warmth of a Pashmina shawl or nestle under the softness of a Pashmina blanket, remember that you are enveloped in a legacy that spans mountains, generations, and cultures. Pashmina is not merely an art form; it's a piece of history woven into threads, a reminder that sometimes the finest things in life are the ones that envelop us in their embrace, like a whisper of warmth against the skin. Moreover, it is the blood and sweat of artisans who work for days or months together to make each piece a masterpiece.

Also read: WHERE IS THE BEST CASHMERE FROM?

The world of fashion is rich with luxurious fabrics and materials, but few hold the same esteemed status as cashmere. A true embodiment of opulence and comfort, a cashmere scarf is not merely an accessory; it's a statement of refined taste and a testament to the marvels of nature's finest fibers. Among the array of cashmere varieties, one stands out as a true gem: Ladakhi Cashmere processed in Kashmir.

Ladakh - the source of the finest Cashmere

cashmere goats in ladakh
Cashmere goats in Ladakh

Ladakh is a region nestled in the northernmost part of India. It is, furthermore, famous for its breathtaking landscapes, serene monasteries, and vibrant culture. Yet, it is not only its scenic beauty that draws attention but also its prized cashmere. Ladakhi Cashmere, which herders obtain from the soft undercoat of indigenous goats, is unique. It is deeply tied to its environment. The harsh and extreme weather conditions Ladakh experiences play a pivotal role in shaping the characteristics of this exceptional fibre.

Ladakhi Cashmere, sourced from the rugged landscapes of Ladakh, is a testament to the resilience of nature and the artistry of the local communities. The place boasts harsh winters that test the endurance of its inhabitants. In response to the demanding climate, the cashmere goats in this region have developed an exquisite undercoat. In fact, this fine protection acts as a natural shield against the cold. This undercoat, finer and softer than even the finest human hair, is the foundation of Ladakhi Cashmere. And it is the source of the sought-after Ladakhi Cashmere. Artisans painstakingly comb the fibres during the molting season, yielding a limited yet precious supply. Each fiber is a testament to the goat's resilience and nature's ability to create something extraordinary. And this takes place even in the harshest of circumstances.

Processing of Ladakhi Cashmere

However, the journey from Ladakh's remote landscapes to becoming the embodiment of warmth and elegance in the form of a cashmere scarf doesn't end there. The processing of Ladakhi Cashmere takes place in the enchanting region of Kashmir. Often called the "Paradise on Earth," Kashmir is additionally famous for its rich cultural heritage and breathtaking scenery. Moreover, it is world famous for intricate craftsmanship.

Kashmiri artisans possess mastery over the art of transforming raw Ladakhi Cashmere into Pashmina. Exquisite Pashmina shawls scarves that envelop one in a cocoon of comfort are crafted from Cashmere. The craftsmanship involves intricate weaving techniques that have been passed down through generations. Clearly, each thread is woven with dedication and love for the art. Undoubtedly, the process is as much a labor of love as it is a celebration of nature's bounty.

Also read: PASHMINA - THE QUALITY OF EACH YARN DEFINED

The Process

Pashmina Collection and Sorting

changthangi goat being combed
Cashmere goat gently being combed

The process begins in Ladakh, where goats naturally shed their winter undercoats as the weather warms. Herders collect the finest fibres through a combination of combing and gentle hand-plucking. Importantly, they ensure that only the softest and highest-quality fibres remain for the next steps.

Cleaning and Washing

Raw cashmere fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

Artisans then thoroughly clean the collected fibres to remove any impurities, dirt, or natural oils. This is a delicate process, as the fibres are extremely fine and fragile. Consequently, proper cleaning is essential to achieve the desired softness and purity of the Pashmina.

Dehairing

natural fibre
The finest cashmere fibre

Once cleaned, the collected Pashmina fibres undergo a dehairing process. For this reason, only skilled artisans contribute, and carefully separate the coarse guard hair from the ultra-fine undercoat. Clearly, this process requires precision and expertise to ensure that only the softest and finest fibres remain.

Spinning

spinning cashmere
Artisan spinning the cashmere on yinder

Artisans, later, spin dehaired fibres into yarn. They do this by hand using a spinning wheel/yinder. Women artisans from Kashmir Valley complete this task with finesse and precision. The resulting Pashmina yarn is, unquestionably, incredibly fine and delicate, setting the stage for the weaving process.

Dyeing

Before weaving, artisans dye the yarn to achieve the desired colors. They use natural dyes sourced from plants, minerals, and other organic materials. They do this to maintain the authenticity of the Pashmina. The dyeing process is, indeed, another skillful art. This is because achieving consistent and vibrant colors requires experience and precision.

Weaving

Weaving
Artisan weaving Pashmina on wooden handloom

Weavers meticulously weave the dyed yarn now over wooden handlooms. Intricate patterns and designs, thus formed, are characteristic of Pashmina shawls. Only skilled weavers employ traditional handlooms. They use their expertise to create unique and stunning motifs. The weaving process can be time-consuming, especially for elaborate designs.

Cashmere and Pashmina

The synergy between Ladakhi Cashmere and Kashmiri Pashmina craftsmanship is a harmonious blend of two distinct yet complementary elements. Ladakhi Cashmere brings its unrivaled softness, warmth, and insulation properties, while Kashmiri artisans infuse their expertise to create scarves that are not just garments, but expressions of an enduring tradition. The scarves, dyed in a myriad of colors inspired by the vibrant culture and landscapes of Kashmir, become works of art. These artful pieces transcend mere utility.

Wearing a Ladakhi Cashmere scarf processed in Kashmir is not just about keeping warm; it's about enveloping yourself in a tale of nature's ingenuity and human creativity. It's a way of carrying a piece of Ladakh's rugged terrain and Kashmir's artistic legacy with you, wherever you go. Tt's an experience that encapsulates the essence of luxury. The scarf's softness against your skin is a reminder of the goats' adaptations to the harsh Himalayan winters. Its lightweight feel defies its incredible warmth, as the fine fibers trap heat to create a cocoon of comfort. Wearing a Ladakhi Cashmere scarf is akin to carrying with you a piece of history, a touch of nature's brilliance, and the dedication of skilled artisans.

Concluding

Pashmina shawl
The Shahkaar Red Cashmere Shawl gives a chance to realize the value of being close to nature by embossing the intricate Papier Mache hand embroidery

Furthermore, the ethereal beauty of Ladakhi Cashmere and the artistry of Kashmiri craftsmanship seamlessly match sustainability and ethical practices. The careful and respectful extraction of cashmere from Ladakh's goats ensures the delicate balance of their ecosystem safeguards. Additionally, the support for Kashmiri artisans contributes to the preservation of a traditional craft that the modern world is trying to do away with.

The best cashmere scarf is one that artisans handcraft from Ladakhi Cashmere and process in Kashmir. It embodies the harmonious blend of nature's gifts and human artistry, capturing the essence of two culturally rich regions. A Ladakhi Cashmere scarf not only provides unparalleled warmth and comfort but also tells a story—a story of resilience, tradition, and the beauty that emerges when nature and human skill unite in perfect harmony. Wearing such a scarf is not just a fashion statement; it's a conscious choice to embrace the extraordinary and support the timeless craft of Kashmiri artisans.

Also read: HOW ARE CASHMERE SCARVES CRAFTED?

Cashmere, the finest wool is procured from Changra Goats in Ladakh. No doubt, it is a high-quality luxurious wool with only 12 to 16 diameters of microns. There are several types of Cashmere around the world based on their quality and fineness. Real cashmere termed the finest Cashmere procured from Ladakh. All around the world, there are numerous breeds of Goats that produce Cashmere wool. There are endless reasons why real Cashmere is expensive. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce Cashmere wool that produces warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is a rare species of goats that produce real Cashmere wool.

The high quality of the finest cashmere is the main reason that it is expensive. When you get an accessory for a lifetime, the expensiveness of the accessory define its prominent quality. There are numerous reasons why real Cashmere is expensive. We have gathered some below;

Rare Species of Cashmere producing Goat

cashmere goat
Changra goat in Ladakh

Changra Goats are a rare species of Goats that produce the finest Cashmere wool in the world. These Goats are also called Kashmir Goats because the wool is crafted in the Vale of Kashmir. The valley redefines the entity of the finest Cashmere in the most marvelous masterpieces. Medium-sized Goats with two defined twisted horns. Changra Goats found at the feet of Changhthaghi mountain in Ladakh.

Low Annual Production

The Goats produce fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, cashmere is considered rare and expensive. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there are almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. The production is highly affected and thus the expense is added to the quality of the finest Cashmere. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

Hand Procuring

The hand procuring of Cashmere wool from the Changra goats is an extensive and tiresome process that requires hard labour. The herders of the Changpa tribe graze the Changra goats in a proper period. Afterward, the goats are herded for the Cashmere wool that is required for the Craft of Pashmina. Therefore, they procure the finest Cashmere from the Changra goats in the harsh weather. They also collect the fine wool from trees and rocks that the goats had rubbed off against.

Handcrafting of the Cashmere

Raw cashmere fibre
Raw cashmere fibre

The finest Cashmere after procuring, transferred to the Valley of Kashmir for further crafting. Crafting begins as soon as the finest wool reaches the Valley of Kashmir. The handcrafting is an acquired skill that befits the Craft of Pashmina for ages. The artisans work day and night to craft a single masterpiece of Pashmina. It takes months and years to complete a single piece of the luxurious Pashmina Craft. Beautifully crafted with diligence, each step from cleaning to designing, the hand-skill reflects a light of luxury and fineness on the value of the Pashmina as a craft and Cashmere as the finest wool.

Unique Craftsmanship

Exuberant craftsmanship unravels glorious hand-skilled designs that reveal the masterpieces of Pashmina. The artisans work day and night to shower the grace of hand skill over the masterpieces of Pashmina craft. The expensive real Cashmere is also a quality of it as the hand skill requires more time as well as more labour.

How does extensive procuring of Cashmere take place?

It all starts in the region of Ladakh. The temperature in the mountain of Changhthanghi goes to a minimum of minus 40°C. Nature inhibits many movements. But, a rare breed of goats called Changra Goats dwell in this harsh climate. To combat this winter, they develop thick wool on their bodies. The Changra goats are also called Cashmere Goats. Medium-sized Goats with two twisted horns. Mainly grazed for the production of fine Wool. The fine wool they develop in the winter season is naturally shed off against rocks, and trees by them. Moreover, the herders of the Changpa tribe also manually combed out the wool. The fine wool is called Cashmere wool. 

An exquisite Craft of Pashmina

The tufts of Cashmere wool leave the Ladakh region to reach the valley of Kashmir. The tufts are packed in small packets. The art of Pashmina caters to these tufts of Cashmere wool. Therefore, the Cashmere wool is cleaned, soaked, and dried in the sunlight to get dirt and grime of any sort apart. Afterward, the Cashmere wool is taken to the households where women folk spin the Cashmere wool into fine yarn. The spinning process,done on a wheel of wool called yinder in the local language. The women spun the Cashmere wool diligently to get the finest Cashmere yarn. The yarn collected around the spindles for further processes.

Pashmina Weaving
Weaving of cashmere on handloom

Further, the Cashmere yarn is taken to the local karkhanas/workshops where several handlooms are fixed. These handlooms are made of forest wood. The highly skilled artisans work on the handlooms using their hands and feet in coordination with the process. The process of weaving is to use Cashmere yarn to create warps and wefts. Thus, producing a whole fine Cashmere fabric. The Cashmere produced is given the required dimensions. Thus, crafting the Pashmina shawl.

The expensive nature of real Cashmere is one of its Qualities

making of Pashmina
The beauty of crafting is an evident quality of the finest Cashmere

Procured from the harsh climate of Ladakh, it is also a thing that Cashmere procured is finest and needs utmost care and professionalism while crafting. Therefore, the beauty of crafting is an evident quality of the finest Cashmere. In addition, the luxurious collection that is crafted in the sphere of Kashmir is also a perk of being the finest. The high-quality fine Cashmere needs the proper look after to retain its natural and luxurious appearance of the same. Defined within the aura of being expensive, the craft itself speaks of the virtues of being one-of-a-kind.

The rich collection of the Finest Cashmere

The collection of Pashmina is rich as there are accessories that make you bloom on the verge of designs. The collection holds three main styles including Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls. All the styles have several designs defined in the way of luxury to befit the quality of being expensive. Each masterpiece reflects the light of being unique and one-of-a-kind. Therefore, adding to the glory of Pashmina as an old-age traditional Craft of Kashmir.

Pashmina Shawls

pashmina shawl
The style of graceful design festoon Sozni hand embroidery in the complementary shades

After weaving a Pashmina Shawl, the journey of different fashions takes place on the unique path of Luxurious Pashmina. Diversified ways of creating these have made fashion visible over so many eras. The various types of Pashmina Shawls are on their way towards being Luxury. Also, the different processes they go through with the skilled hand of artisans from the valley illuminate the luxury over the face of Pashmina. There are several designs in the collection of Pashmina Shawls including Shibori, Ombre, solid, Reversible, Printed, Kani, etc.

Also read: IS CASHMERE THE SAME AS PASHMINA?

Cashmere Wraps

Kani cashmere wrap
From the craft heaven of Kashmir, the narrow lanes of downtown house artisan workshops that produce luxury cashmere wraps in ethereal designs

The handcrafted Cashmere Wraps are the accessories that ravishingly explicit the beauty within the creation of a particular wrap. In the world of modernization, contemporary designs in the art of Pashmina are a must. Moreover, Pashmina in the form of wraps has reached heights unending as the hand-crafted wraps bestowed glamour in various directions of fashion and luxury. Thus, there are several designs and patterns in the creation of Cashmere Wraps viz., Solid Cashmere Wraps, Ombre wraps, Laced Wraps, Swarovski Wraps, Printed Wraps, Embroidered Wraps, and Kani Pashmina Wraps.

The authenticity of the rarest and finest Cashmere, seen in the shadow of the Cashmere Wraps is exquisite. So, elegance with the creation of sustainable fashion is subsumed in the creation of radiant and ravishing wraps that go well with every attire of any kind. The Cashmere Wraps are among the Pure high-quality luxurious masterpieces that can be a revere to the presence of whosoever is wearing them. Therefore, the opulent Cashmere Wraps along with the creativity and hard work of artisans are the exquisite and extraordinary styles of Pashmina in the field of serene craft.

Cashmere Scarves

Yellow cashmere scarf
Meticulously handwoven using the finest cashmere fibre from the Himalayas, the pieces have an exemplary softness & warmth

The Cashmere Scarves are the most stylish and elegant forms of Pashmina accessory. Moreover, belonging to the class of modernization in its Art, these are most cherished and admired for their unique utility and style for everyday life. Moreover, there are diverse styles in the creation of Cashmere Scarves. Each describes beauty without limits. Also, the luxurious Cashmere Scarves, worn to beautify the beautiful distinct patterns are fine. Thus, the Ombre Scarves look upon among the souls with the gratification of being the most opulent significance. In addition, the Swarovski crystals Cashmere Scarves relish the entire modernization and contemporary crafts.

Also read: TURNING THE WAYS FOR THE PLEDGE OF FINEST CASHMERE

Cashmere is the finest wool procured from Changra species of Goats. The wool is the finest cashmere from all the Cashmere produced in the world. There are diverse breeds in the world of cashmere-producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. The breeds include Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce Cashmere wool that produces warmth. The exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is a rare species of goats that produce the finest Cashmere in the world.

How is the finest Cashmere procured?

cashmere goat
Changhthanghi goats in the region of Ladakh

A rare species of Goats known as Changhthanghi Goats have an undercoat of Pashmina wool around their bodies to prevent the harsh winters from entering their bodies. They are medium-sized goats with two twisted horns. They develop the wool on their bodies while the winter is at its peak and the temperature goes to a minimum of minus 40 degrees Celsius. Eventually, when the season of winter changes to summer, the goats shed this wool off by rubbing it with rocks and barks. The herders also comb the excess wool off to sell in the market. Due to the rare species of Goats, the portion of Ladakhi Cashmere herders acquires is 80 to 160 gms a year. The wool is fine Cashmere wool.

The Craft of Pashmina in Kashmir

Raw cashmere fibre
Tufts of cashmere fibre sent from Ladakh to the artisans for crafting

Pashmina is the crafting of Ladakh Cashmere wool to several fine accessories through hand-processes in Kashmir. The finest Ladakhi Cashmere is crafted for many fine accessories of Cashmere through the Art of Pashmina. The artisans work meticulously on each and every piece of fine Cashmere. When the tufts of Cashmere wool reach Kashmir from Ladakh, the wool is cleaned, soaked, and dried to free from any impurity. Thus, the Cashmere wool undergoes the first process of Pashmina Art. Afterward, the fine and cleaned Cashmere is transferred to the local houses for the process of Spinning.

The process of Spinning is transforming fine Cashmere wool into Cashmere yarn. The women in the households perform the precise process of Spinning. The Spinning process needs patience and precision. While humming the traditional Kashmir songs, the women meticulously spin the Cashmere wool on a wooden wheel called yinder. Therefore, the Cashmere yarn was formed to make it go forward to the next intricate process of Weaving.

Afterward, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the conversion of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively a masterpiece in itself.

Also read: PASHMINA SHAWL: TESTIMONY OF THE TRAVELERS

Versatile styles and designs

Pashmina shawl
Pashmina shawl made from the finest cashmere

Pashmina is the crafting of the finest Cashmere in Kashmir. There are three main styles in the craft of Pashmina including Cashmere Wraps, Cashmere Scarves, and Pashmina Shawls. We, at pashmina.com craft the finest Cashmere to the diverse designs to showcase the collection rich in heritage and culture. Pashmina is the crafting held together by skilled artisans working on each masterpiece very precisely with the hues of traditions and nature.

Also read: WHY IS PASHMINA CRAFT A ONE-OF-A-KIND LUXURY?

Cashmere is the finest wool procured from Ladakh and crafted in the valley of Kashmir. The definition of Pashmina is linked with the etiquette of crafting the finest Cashmere. There are several breeds of Cashmere-producing goats all over the world. There is also a specific amount of Cashmere production from each breed. The finest of all is the Ladakhi Cashmere procured from the feet of the Changhthanghi range. After procurement, the fine-quality Cashmere is crafted in the valley of Kashmir to curate the fine Pashmina accessories under three main styles viz; Cashmere Scarves, Cashmere Wraps, and Pashmina Shawls. All three styles have elegant and versatile designs under their category. Therefore, the definition of each is mandatory to know about. Before knowing the process of the Pashmina Craft, how Pashmina came into existence is required.

How did Pashmina come into existence?

It all started when a Persian saint was travelling across the globe. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the Middle East came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. Thus, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvellous wool. Awestruck with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles.

Empress Josephine in Kani pashmina Shawl
Empress Josephine in Kani Pashmina Shawl

The craft of Pashmina reigns in the beauty of Kashmir since the 13th century. It is a gift from the saint of Persia who discovered the rare species of Goats in Chanthanghi. He entailed the luxury of Pashmina Craft in Kashmir. Afterwards, the royals adorned the Craft of Pashmina. It is an art that prevailed through centuries proving its legacy all over the world including European aristocrats and Armenian merchants. For centuries, Europeans were the largest owners of Pashmina accessories. French empress Josephine owned more than 400 Kani Pashmina Shawls from Kashmir to supplicate her beauty with luxury. In India, the Mughals had a great affinity with Pashmina Craft. Emperor Akbar had such a fondness for the Pashmina shawl that he gave it an admirable nickname, "parm-narm" meaning “supremely soft”.

How is the fine Cashmere procured for Cashmere Scarves?

changthangi goat being combed
Changra goat gently being combed

Changhthanghi mountains are one of the coldest parts of Ladakh where temperature goes to -40 degrees. A rare breed of goats lives in the minus temperature. They are called Changra Goats. These goats develop thick wool on their bodies to combat the harsh winter. Eventually, seasons change. In summer, the Changra Goats shed off the thick wool against rocks and trees due to the heat in the air. The wool is also manually combed out by the herders. The herders of the Changpa tribe manually combed out the wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. It is the softest and finest wool. The wool is further crafted in the horizons of Kashmir Valley in the name of Pashmina Art to craft luxurious Cashmere Scarves.

Also read: DOES CASHMERE SCARF KEEP YOU WARM?

Crafting the fine Cashmere

Art of Pashmina begins as soon as the packets of Cashmere wool reach the valley of Kashmir. The tufts of Cashmere wool are cleaned, soaked, and dried to further get the premium Cashmere wool. Further moved ahead to the process of Spinning. Spinning is the meticulous process of transforming Cashmere wool into the finest cashmere yarn. Mostly, womenfolk of the Kashmir Valley perform the meticulous process of Spinning. After the Spinning process, the fine Cashmere yarn is moved to the next process called Weaving.

Shawl Weaving in Kashmir
Cashmere Weaving on a Classic Handloom

The process of Weaving is intricately turning the Cashmere yarn into the finest Cashmere fabric. The warps and wefts are sophistically woven with each other to present the meticulous Cashmere Fabric to the further process of designing. Mostly done by the menfolk of the valley on the handlooms made of forest wood. The artisans weave by using their feet in coordination with their hands. The meticulous harmony of aura and artisan creates the fine Cashmere Fabric.

Also read: IS CASHMERE A GOOD GIFT?

Crafting of Cashmere Scarves

men's cashmere scarf

Cashmere Scarves are the accessories of luxury as well as fashion. The style quotient of Cashmere Scarves makes the wearer glamorous. There are several ways to wear elegant Cashmere Scarves. Men as well as women have witnessed many exquisite collections of Cashmere Scarves for the apparel to scream the name of luxury. Cashmere Scarves provide the warmth of the fine Cashmere wool. In addition, Cashmere Scarves not only keep the warmth in the neck on a cold winter day but also add elegance and style to the outfit in all seasons.

In addition, the unique crafting of Cashmere Scarves obliges the artistic hand of Artisans. Hence, the artisans of the valley are highly skilled artisans who are the masters of Pashmina Art. Generations of artisans are working in the tranquil field of Pashmina. They breathe Pashmina, they live underneath Pashmina. Therefore, the exquisite craft is dignified in the realms of Kashmir Valley. Thus, the profound craft feels the dimensions of Cashmere Scarves. Mainly, there are two sizes for Cashmere Scarves. They are; 80in x 14in/2m x 35cm and 80in x 28in/2m x 70cm. The dimensions of each Scarf befit royal fashion as well as contemporary fashion.

As per the required fashion sense, the Scarves are designed in three different forms including Ombre Cashmere Scarves, Swarovski Crystals Cashmere Scarves, and Solid Cashmere Scarves. On the other hand, in Men's Pashmina, there are several designs in Cashmere Scarves including Patterned, Kani, Shibori, etc. The intricacy and craftsmanship in the crafting of designs are glorious in themselves.

Also read: WHAT SCARVES ARE IN STYLE FOR 2023?

Pashmina Shawl is an accessory of luxury and fashion. There is a tale of Pashmina craft that reflects the main styles in the definition of luxury. Pashmina Shawl is a traditional shroud crafted in the valley of Kashmir with high skill. Crafting a Pashmina Shawl is in itself a luxury. Therefore, redefined through the nature and grace of Kashmir, Pashmina Shawls are versatile accessories that define the fashion realm in a different way.

The handcrafted Pashmina has been on the journey of love for all people from many eras. Also, it has been a part of the legacy of many different forms and designs. It gathers itself around several other crafts with definite creativity. The handloom is used for the process of weaving Cashmere wool and adorning the ravishing Pashmina Shawl. The Cashmere fibres, woven manually and gradually give rise to meticulous Pashmina Shawls. It is to be noted that crafting of finest Cashmere for several accessories is the Art of Pashmina. Moreover, the weaving and interweaving of the fine wool are accompanied by the handwork of artisans. Thus, they can weave the finest wool on a handloom to get the desired look of Cashmere. Thereby, curating them into Pashmina Shawls for the bliss of souls.

How is fine Cashmere procured?

changra goat
Himalayan Cashmere goat

It all begins in the Changhthanghi mountain of the Ladakh region in the Himalayas. The temperature goes to the minimum in this region. A rare breed of goats dwell in the region. These goats are called Changra goats. They are also called Cashmere Goats. The goats develop a pelage of wool in the winter season to combat the harsh weather. Thereafter, in summer they shed off the wool to get the air. The wool is manually combed out by the herders of the Changpa tribe. The Changpa tribe mainly raises these medium-sized Changra goats with two twisted horns. In addition, they mainly raise them for wool production. Thus, the wool is called the finest Cashmere wool.

Craft of Pashmina

Pashmina is the crafting of Ladakh Cashmere wool to several fine accessories through hand-processes in Kashmir. The finest Ladakhi Cashmere is crafted for many fine accessories of Cashmere through the Art of Pashmina. The artisans work meticulously on each and every piece of fine Cashmere. When the tufts of Cashmere wool reach Kashmir from Ladakh, the wool is cleaned, soaked, and dried to free from any impurity. Thus, the Cashmere wool undergoes the first process of Pashmina Art. Afterward, the fine and cleaned Cashmere is transferred to the local houses for the process of Spinning.

Weaving
Artisan weaving Pashmina on wooden handloom

The process of Spinning is transforming fine Cashmere wool into Cashmere yarn. The women in the households perform the precise process of Spinning. The Spinning process needs patience and precision. While humming the traditional Kashmir songs, the women meticulously spin the Cashmere wool on a wooden wheel called yinder. Therefore, the Cashmere yarn was formed to make it go forward to the next intricate process of Weaving.

Afterward, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the conversion of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. Also, the intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively the masterpiece in itself.

Crafting the fine Pashmina Shawls

Pashmina shawls have been the most diverse craft in the world of Pashmina. They are the most requisite part of the celebration for lovers of nature. Pashmina Shawls are the most versatile and presentable craft in the fashion world. They are diversified into various designs and styles to bring forth the best versions of you on any occasion initiating the happiness of the time ahead. Thus, the exploration of Shawls is described with a love for supreme glory and authenticity.

The dimensions of a Pashmina shawl are among these;

  1.  80in x 40in/2m x 1m 
  2.  90in x 45in/2.2m x 1.1m 
  3.  110in x 55in/2.8m x 1.4m

Also read: WHY IS PASHMINA CRAFT A ONE-OF-A-KIND LUXURY?

The rich collection of Pashmina Shawls

Reversible Cashmere Shawl
Artisans believe in the glory of Shine of Hue Aksi Pashmina Shawl by engaging in the luxury of the presence

We, at pashmina.com have a blissful collection of Pashmina Shawls to adorn the beauty of each fashion style. Beautifully crafted in the valley of Kashmir, the Pashmina Shawls are versatile. Defined with the supremacy of the modern touch, luxury is filled with the days of fashion. Therefore, having a masterpiece of Pashmina is itself an epitome of luxurious fashion in the world of modernism.

Also read: WHAT IS PASHMINA WOOL?

Pashmina is the crafting of the finest Cashmere procured from Ladakh. The definition of the Craft is witnessed by the heritage of the Valley of Kashmir. Pashmina Craft is the craft of Kashmir from the 13th century. The beauty of every dime of Pashmina enthrals the viewer as it reflects the nature of Kashmir in every inch of its being. The finest Cashmere is procured with diligence to be crafted in Kashmir to diverse styles. An essence is crafted when fine Cashmere is defined with Pashmina Craft. Artisans define the luxury of Pashmina Craft by signing the token of intricacy on each masterpiece crafted in the valley.

Pashmina Craft is the token of luxury for the fashion world. The craft is defined with the words of intricacy and luxury. The endless journey of Pashmina Craft in the valley of Kashmir started in the 13th century. From that century to today's century, the craft is filled with exuberant definitions of luxury. In addition, the defining beauty of each masterpiece requires intricate hand skill as well as the inspiration of culture.

Procuring the finest Cashmere from the feet of Changhthanghi

cashmere goat
Changra goat in the Changhthanghi region of Ladakh

The process begins in the realm of the Changhthanghi mountain of Ladakh. The temperature goes to a minimum in winter. A rare breed of Goats lives in the minus temperature. They are called Changra Goats. These goats develop thick wool on their bodies to combat the harsh winter. Eventually, seasons change. In summer, the Changra Goats shed off the thick wool against rocks and trees due to the heat in the air. The wool is also manually combed out by the herders. The herders of the Changpa tribe manually combed out the wool. The wool is called Cashmere wool. It is the softest and finest wool. The wool is further crafted in the horizons of Kashmir Valley in the name of Pashmina Art.

Crafting in the Luxury of Pashmina

The first step is cleaning the Cashmere wool. There is a thorough cleaning of the wool to get all sorts of dirt out. After the process of cleaning, the next step is the procedure of Spinning. It begins by giving the local women the Cashmere wool to spin fine Cashmere yarn. The womenfolk of the valley mainly spin Cashmere wool. The process is done on the wooden wheel/charkha called tinder in the local language. Thus, the women artisans meticulously spin the Cashmere wool to the miraculously fine Cashmere yarn.

weaving cashmere
The weaving of solid Pashmina takes 3-4 days on the wooden handloom

Afterwards, the spun Cashmere yarn is taken to the local workshops/karkhanas to move ahead in the Pashmina Art. The next process is the weaving process. The weaving is the conversion of Cashmere yarn to fine Cashmere fabric. The intricate warps and wefts create the beautiful woven Cashmere fabric. Therefore, the most common pattern in weave is chashm_e_bulbul or the diamond weave. The weave is exclusively the masterpiece in itself.

Further, the Cashmere fabric goes on to the designing process. The design starts as soon as the Cashmere fabric reaches the hands of artisans. Thus, creating a wide array of masterpieces. Henceforth, the Art of Pashmina is the creation of diverse accessories from the finest Cashmere. The styles and designs perform the ways of luxurious fashion in the most elegant looks providing men the opportunity to show their ways of fashion to the world.

History of Pashmina Craft

A Persian saint was travelling across the globe during the 13th century. Mir Syed Ali Hamdani was a sage from the Middle East. The footprints of a saint Mir Syed Ali Hamdani from the Middle East came to Kashmir with 700 craftsmen to adorn the beauty of the valley and to spread the holy message. He rested his feet in the region of Changhthanghi Ladakh. Thus, the saint landed its appearance in the Changhthangi Mountain in Ladakh. While perceiving nature, he locked his eyes on the Goat of marvellous wool. Awestruck with the softness and fineness of the wool, he made socks out of it and gifted them to the Sultan Zain-ul-Abideen of Kashmir Valley. Perceiving the beauty of Cashmere wool, suggested making an industry that cultivates the Pashmina in desirable styles.

A one-of-a-kind Luxurious qualities

There are several qualities of Pashmina as a craft that it is given the token of one-of-a-kind luxury. Some are enumerated below;

1. Pashmina - The finest Cashmere is crafted

Ladakhi Cashmere is the finest Cashmere produced in the world. There are diverse breeds of cashmere-producing goats. Each breed has a specific percentage of production in the total production. The several breeds viz;  Australian Cashmere Goat, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Hexi, Zhonghwei, Tibetan Plateau, Luliang breeds, Changthanghi, etc. Therefore, all the breeds produce the Cashmere wool that produces the warmth. Therefore, the exclusive breed of goats called Changra Goats is a rare species of goats that produce the finest Cashmere for Pashmina crafting.

2. The low production

The Changra Goats produce fine Cashmere wool once every year. Therefore, only around 80 to 170 gms of Ladakhi Cashmere are produced during a year. Therefore, considered the rarest. Also, other breeds of it produce several times more as there are almost 400 million Cashmere eliciting Goats all over the world. Consequently, the production caters to the manufacture of different styles like Pashmina Shawls, Cashmere Scarves, and Cashmere Wraps.

3. Handspun and Handwoven

spinning cashmere
Artisan spinning the cashmere on yinder

Pashmina Crafting begins when the fine Cashmere is cleaned in the valley of Kashmir. There is a proper cleaning of the Cashmere wool to get out all the dirt and grime from the fine wool. Afterwards, the fine Cashmere wool is taken to the homes of Kashmir where the women of households spin the wool into yarn. The process takes place on a traditional wheel called Yinder in the local language. The wool is hand-spun on the wheel and crafted with long and fine Cashmere yarns.

Further, the fine yarns are transferred to local workshops to get woven on the traditional handloom by the weavers. The fine yarn is woven using hands and feet on the handlooms to get the fine Cashmere fabric. Also, the handlooms are made of forest wood and are one of the traditional equipment for the Pashmina Crafting. Weaving the Cashmere yarns is an extensive as well as intricate work done by the artisans of the valley of Kashmir for generations.

Also read: HOW CAN YOU KNOW IF CASHMERE IS REAL?

4. Exclusivity in designs

kani pashmina shawl
Handcrafted flawlessly over the period of a few months, Kani shawls of Kashmir were the ones that Empress Josephine chose to accessorize frequently

There are various designs in each of the three styles of Pashmina Craft. The hand-crafted designs showcase the luxury of Pashmina craft through versatility. They confer to the traditional as well as contemporary eras of fashion. In addition, the hand-crafted designs complement the overall definition of exclusivity and luxury. The designs are exclusive as well as elegant to showcase each fashion statement efficiently.

Also read: PASHMINA - THROUGH THE MEADOW OF KASHMIR

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps and apparel from Cashmere wool which grows on the undercoat of a rare goat species in Ladakh. The luxury wraps and accessories produced from this fine and soft raw wool take from a few months to some years to complete, be it a Pashmina shawl, scarf, or fabric. Cashmere is acquired from Ladakh, but its entire processing takes place in Kashmir. From cleaning the raw wool to spinning and weaving, finishing and embroidery, all expertise is indigenous to Kashmir. It is the masterly skills of Kashmiri artisans that transform a lump of soft wool into world-famous wrap accessories.

Pashmina is made from Cashmere wool

Cashmere goats
Changthangi goats in Ladakh

Pashmina products are made of Cashmere. Raw wool or Cashmere is sourced from Ladakh. A region known as Changthang lies over 14000 feet above sea level. This area is home to the Changthangi goat which naturally grows fine Cashmere as an undercoat to survive in the harsh winters. The temperature in winter goes down to even -40 degrees. Therefore, it is this fine down coat of the goat that protects it. As summer arrives the coat makes the goat uneasy. So it rubs itself against rough surfaces and gets rid of some portion of the wool. Consequently, the rest of the wool is ethically combed off its body by professionals and herders and what we get is a lump of exceptionally soft wool. This soft blob is to be processed, which takes place in Kashmir. 

Processing of the wool

The wool is sent to Kashmir, where womenfolk start with cleaning and sorting of the wool. Once it is clean, it is fixed onto a wooden spinning wheel called Yinder. Yinder helps spin the lump of wool into fine and delicate yarn, which has a diameter of 12-16 microns. This exceptionally fine yarn is later sent to weavers 

Pashmina Weaving
Weaving of Pashmina on handloom

Weavers mount the fine yarn onto the heddles of a handloom. The handloom is a classic wooden handloom, which has been used to weave Pashmina from centuries together. Accordingly, weavers spend 3 to 5 days to produce one shawl or scarf or any other fabric depending upon the size. This is the production process of a Pashmina shawl. The shawl acquired from this process is plain and needs some more detailing, finishing, or embroidery

Embroidering a Pashmina

Making of Zari Pashmina
Tilla embroidery being done on Pashmina

Only hand embroidery is suitable for Pashmina. Since the base is extremely fine and delicate, machine embroidery can cause harm to it. Usually, Sozni embroidery, Tilla embroidery, and Papier Mache embroidery are done on Pashmina. It is, hence, again, only Kashmiri artisans who can embroider Pashmina shawls with utmost finesse and pattern and in the same traditional and classic fashion as royalty all over the world would cherish.

Pashmina Vs other wool types

Technically speaking, Cashmere, which is used to make Pashmina shawls, is not a wool type, but animal hair. As such, it is fine and smooth when compared to other types of warm fabrics. Pashmina is considered 8 times warmer than sheep wool, yet exceptionally light and fine. The owners of Pashmina shawls never need to wear thick sweaters and cardigans as Pashmina shawls are warm and comfortable enough for winter or fall seasons. 

Why is Pashmina Special?

pashmina shawl
Defining the miracle of Pashmina craft, the Rafiiush Shaan Do-Rukha Pashmina Shawl is a magnificent creation by the artisans

Pashmina is really special for the people of Kashmir. The reason for this is the olden times when the economy of Kashmir wasn't very favorable, and a few locals literally starved. At this time, a saint visited the valley from Persia, and along with him came some immensely talented craftsmen. These craftsmen had a huge know-how of a variety of crafts which was transferred to the locals. Hence the locals now became knowledgeable craftsmen and could work with their own hands.

As a result, locals could now make copper vessels, Papier Mache items, carpets, jewelry, and more by themselves and earn a decent living. But the most famous and more chosen art form was that of making Pashmina shawls. More and more people from the remotest corners of the valley were allured by the art of Pashmina. They, hence became spinners, weavers, or embroiderers of the same. As a result, Pashmina shawls from Kashmir reached their zenith. Now, patrons all around the world prefer Pashmina shawls from Kashmir to those produced in other regions of the world.

For this region, the people of Kashmir became more emotionally attached to this art, as it survived them during the hardest phases of their life. The same craftsmen who couldn't afford even the basic things could now travel from one country to another for training purposes. Pashmina is, undoubtedly, special for its finesse and warmth. But more, for the way it glorified the valley and made it visible to the outside world, which perhaps didn't even know where Kashmir was.

Also read: PASHMINA - THROUGH THE MEADOW OF KASHMIR

Concluding

Pashmina is made from the Cashmere wool of three Changthangi goats. One goat produces around 150 grams of Cashmere, and hence depending upon the size of the shawls, the wool is used. For one full Pashmina shawl of size 100*200 cm, wool from 3 - 4 goats is used. Pashmina is season-dependent. One has to wait for an entire year to get Cashmere from Ladakh.

Also read: KASHMIRI SHAWLS IN MID-VICTORIAN NOVELS