{"id":1969,"date":"2018-10-04T03:45:18","date_gmt":"2018-10-04T10:45:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pashmina.com\/editorial\/?p=1969"},"modified":"2024-07-06T04:29:54","modified_gmt":"2024-07-06T11:29:54","slug":"kashmiri-shawls-during-the-dogra-period","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.pashmina.com\/editorial\/kashmiri-shawls-during-the-dogra-period\/","title":{"rendered":"Kashmiri Shawls During the Dogra Period"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Since time immemorial, Kashmir has been referred to as the cradle of several crafts. According to Kashmir ruler, Mirza Haider Dughlat<\/strong>, \u201cin Kashmir, one meets with all those arts and crafts which are in most cities uncommon.\u201d French physician & traveller, Francis Bernier<\/strong>, who visited Kashmir in 1665, believed that \u201cit is due to special properties of water available there.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"French
Francis Bernier, who came to Kashmir in 1665<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Dogra period (1846-1885) witnessed the sharp rise of certain crafts that reached their climax. In the words of H.W.Bellew<\/strong> who visited Kashmir sometime in 1873, praised the artisans of Kashmir, their Kashmiri shawls and embroideries. Also, silver work, paper mache paintings, stone engraving & wood carving all exhibited work of wonderful delicacy & minute details. In fact, this was reiterated by Lawrence, a settlement officer in Kashmir in 1889. He said, \u201cEvery Kashmiri is a weaver and the home spun cloth woven by the villagers was highly appreciated by many Europeans.\u201d It was actually during this period that the Kashmiri shawl making employed a large number of people, which in turn generated revenue for the state.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Checkout the full variety of Cashmere Shawls<\/strong><\/a> and Pashmina Shawls<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The \u201cRoyal\u201d identity of Kashmiri shawl<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Kashmiri shawl manufacturing has its roots in the picturesque state of Jammu and Kashmir.<\/strong> Here the air is crisp and art runs in the veins of its people. In the 1800's, the Kashmiri shawl was considered a symbol of imperial prestige. Infact no fashionable woman\u2019s<\/strong> wardrobe was complete without this luxurious piece. It enjoyed name and fame across the world, owing to its softness, warmth, brilliance of colours<\/strong> and sublime fineness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mother
Mother and Two Children by A E Chalon, c. 1812.
(courtesey of the Geffrye Museum)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Under the Mughals<\/strong>, shawl making made several strides, with karkhanas<\/em> creating new social groups among its craftsmen. In the text Tuzk-i-Jahangiri<\/strong>, <\/em>Emperor Jahangir expresses fondness for Pashmina shawl and calls it one of his \u201cfavourite items.\u201d It was considered a status symbol in the Empire and was gifted as part of imperial festivals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the Afghan period, shawl making grew further and in 1796, these Kashmiri shawls<\/a> were sent to Europe. These objects of desire reached Napolean<\/strong> during the Egyptian campaign, who then gifted it to his wife Empress Josephine<\/strong>. At that time, many French soldiers returned with plundered Pashmina shawls worn as belts over their uniforms. It became severely popular in Europe and as the demand rose, merchants traveled all the way to Kashmir to purchase them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also read: <\/strong>The history of Pashmina Trade<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sikh Period and Kashmiri Shawl Trade<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

During the Sikh period<\/strong>, shawl making continued to receive consistent patronage. Now it became fashionable even in Punjab and also popular in Lahore. During the reign of the last two Sikh rulers, the Kashmiri shawl manufacturing witnessed a decline from 1841-45. This was also due to some political disturbances in the region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When Gulab Singh<\/strong> became the Maharaja of Kashmir, the shawl trade began to revive. In 1846, the total number of looms reached 7,000 with 17,000 weavers working at that time. The same year, there were 3,500 karkhandars<\/em><\/strong> in the Valley. However, in 1847, several shawl weavers migrated to Punjab and the number of looms reduced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Queen
Queen Victoria with the gold and Pashmina\/kani bedspread presented by Maharaja Gulab Singh<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Compensation to Weavers<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In early 1847, the weavers put out certain demands. These were early enumeration of workers, reduction of nazarana <\/em>, fixing length of a work day, & framing proper regulations for their welfare. More than 4,000 weavers migrated to Lahore and this worried Gulab Singh. He announced the following regulations:<\/p>\n\n\n\n