Kashmir is a place that is abundant in handicrafts and rich in the most artistic forms of utility products. And the best feature of all the crafty products is the fact that all of them are world famous. Be it the rich carpets of Kashmir, hand chiselled copper making, walnut wood vintage pieces, embroidery rich fabrics or others, the crafts have been revered by individuals across the globe. But, from amongst all the rich and famous handcrafted products of Kashmir, Pashmina shawls might be vanquishers. The art of Pashmina has defeated every other similar art; Pashmina shawls from Kashmir aren't the uncrowned kings, but fairly deserving champions. 

Since their inception in the 15th century, Pashmina shawls have been considered treasures. Women all over the world have been fascinated by the mere looks of this art form. For this reason, Europeans used to travel all the way to the valley to have a first hand experience of Pashmina shawls. They were ones who spread their positive experience to the entire world. Women from their royal courts ordered Pashmina shawls from Kashmir and owned hundreds of the same. Queens, Empresses and others from royal courts used to be gifted by their men with Pashmina shawls, as this was considered as the finest and the most luxurious gift they could get. 

Europeans introduced the material used to make Pashmina shawls in their countries, where it came to be known as Cashmere. Pashmina shawls were called Cashmere shawls or Cashmere wraps in European countries. These were so much in demand that a large number of producers started producing their own Cashmere wraps. But these were never able to compete with the original wraps of the valley. 

Artisans of the Art

Pashmina shawl makers were one of the most admired and honoured communities in the 18th century. These were the masters of the art, who transformed raw Cashmere wool to luxury shawls and scarves. Shawl makers were considered the most talented and skilled men and women; they were continuously invited by European countries to train their labour. As such, artisans are believed to have travelled to the farthest of countries in order to teach the skill of weaving and embroidery to foreign artisans.

Pashmina art was so loved and famed that an entire generation of young men during the 15th to 18th century learnt the art of Pashmina shawl making. The children of craftsmen left studies to join their fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers. They would assisst in weaving, spinning or embroidery of Pashmina shawls. This art form was their main source of income as well as their hobby. The work never disinterested or fatigued them, although it was one of the most meticulous and intricate work which needed patience and immense skill. 

Till now, the art of Pashmina making is significantly valued all over the world. But there is an unsettling debate about the terms related to Pashmina. A question arises about the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina. While some argue both the terms have the same meaning, others comment that Cashmere is a type of Pashmina or vice versa. After a deep discussion and research on the same, we came to a final conclusion about the terms and their origin. But before that, it is essential to know the history of the terms and how each came into existence. 

History of Pashmina

Kashmiri shawls have always been world-famous, right from the Indus valley civilization. But in its native place, Kashmir, it was a Persian Sufi saint by the name of Mir Syed Ali Hamdani, who discovered Pashmina in Ladakh. This was around the 15th century, when Shah E Hamdan (he was popularly called so amongst the masses) visited the valley for a trip. It was him, who for the first time discovered a fine and soft wool; this was growing as a downfibre on a Ladakhi goat.

Shah E Hamdan realised that such fine quality wool should not get wasted. Hence he immediately contacted the herders of this goat. He ordered them to get a pair of socks handcrafted from this fine wool. When the pair of socks was complete, it was presented as a gift to the then king of Kashmir - King Zain ul Abideen. The king was immensely impressed. He ordered the setting up of processing units in Kashmir. In these mini-factories, the fine wool would be processed into luxury shawls, scarves, socks, apparel, stoles and furnishing accessories. 

Since Shah E Hamdan had come from Persia, he named this fine wool ‘Pashm’. Pashm translates to ‘soft gold’ in Persian language, and that is how the quality of the wool was considered by him. The shawls crafted from Pashm came to be known as Pashmina shawls. Similarly scarves became Pashmina scarves and stoles became Pashmina stoles. Locals called the fine wool Pashm, and the finished product as Pashmina. This went on for long, until the Europeans experienced the lavishness of the wool. 

Origins of Pashm:

Pashmina shawls were highly honoured for a large number of reasons. Firstly, that their discovery was made by someone who was considered as a Messiah amongst the locals. And second, Pashmina shawl spinning, weaving and embroidery became the primary source of income for the locals. While women of the household would largely be the spinners of raw Pashm that came from Ladakh, men of the household took the responsibility of weaving the same. Hence women collected Pashm from those who acquired it from Ladakh, and handspun it over a wooden charkha/spinning wheel.

With the perfect movements of their hands and fingers, these exceptionally skilled women would transform Pashm to fine yarn. Yarn would then be taken over by men. Women cleaned, sorted and spun the Pashm, while men stretched and wove it to fine shawls, scarves and more. This was the end result of the fine Pashm procured from the hilly areas of Ladakh, which in itself would be a painstaking task. 

Patronage by Mughals:

Mughals had especially a keen interest in Pashmina shawl manufacturing and improving the industry as a whole. It was during the Mughal era that embroidery was introduced in Pashmina shawls. As a matter of fact, the influence of Mughals is still visible in motifs embroidered on these shawls. Some motifs have been named after Mughal influence such as Shah Pasand (choice of the king), and Buta Muhammed Shah (Muhammed Shah’s flower). These are both named after Mughal emperors. 

Under the aegis of King Akbar, Pashmina shawls reached their zenith. Abul Fazl writes in Ain E Akbari (biography of Akbar) that the king encouraged every way to improve the manufacture of shawls in Kashmir. It is even believed that King Akbar termed a new term for the Pashmina shawl - Parm Narm - which translates to exceptionally soft. And it was him who for the first time ordered dyeing of shawls, instead of leaving them in their natural shades only. It is even believed the Doshala shawls were invented by Akbar in his rule. 

Emperor Jehangir is said to have followed the tradition of upkeeping the Pashmina industry. Infact, in his autobiography described Pashmina as his favourite art form. During his reign, dealers would bring large quantities of raw Pashm from Ladakh and get it processed in Kashmir. It was in this period that around 13 square feet of Pashmina could be twisted and passed through a finger ring. 

Other than patronising it, Mughal emperors even used Pashmina fabric in their courts. They would wear Pashmina shawls, as well as use the fabric to decorate their courts. This was particularly for the Tilla embroidered Shawls, whose sheen multiplied the grace of the Mughal courts.

Pashmina Shawls and Europe:

In the second half of the 18th century, a new fashion rose to new heights in Europe. It was an exceptionally soft, fine and warm wool type which was so intricate that the European royalty fell in love with it. The Europeans had not encountered anything so luxurious and heavenly before. These were Kashmiri Pashmina shawls, the opulent wraps that were newly introduced in Europe. Very soon, these became a status symbol, especially after patronage by Empress Josephine and later by Queen Victoria.

By the end of the 19th century, these luxury products were regularly traded between Kashmir and Europe. Europeans were so much fascinated by Pashmina shawls, that some local producers started making copies of the shawl, but clearly their production never matched the original products. Queens, Empresses and Princesses ordered hundreds of Pashmina shawls from Kashmir, as the expensive tags attached to the shawls never bothered them. Infact, the kings of Europe were inspired by Mughal rulers who gave Pashmina shawls as ‘Khilat’ to friendly nation heads. Khilat would mean submission by the receiving party.

Kani shawl, made in Kashmiri Pashmina were the ones which gained the most popularity. These were produced in a small village of Kashmir (called Kanihama), and were the ones which were discovered by Napoleon on his Egypt trip. The Emperor gifted the same to his beloved wife - Empress Josephine. The empress luckily happened to be the style icon of the century. As she patronised Kani shawls of Kashmir, commoners too got swooned by the same. Soon the popularity of Kani shawls reached its zenith, and many hundred Kani shawls were ordered from Kashmir by European nobles as well as the less affluent. 

The Buta motif was known in Europe as the Paisley. This was one of the most well known and widely recognized motifs in the 18th century. Buta was a teardrop shaped motif, and had ancient origins. It adapted to modern versions and changed its shape with time. But the paisley shawls were the most popular ones when it came to embroidered shawls. Before introducing themselves in Europe, the shape of the motifs was much different than after Europeans intervened. A town in Scotland was called Paisley, and that is where the motif was copied for the first time. The new adaptation of paisley was different, but was still beautiful enough to attract huge demand from locals. 

Other than the paisley motif, floral motifs, geometric motifs, abstract motifs and more were used in Pashmina shawls. 

The origin of Cashmere

Cashmere is a term introduced by Europeans. The term was an anglicization of the term ‘Kashmir’, as the foreigners could not pronounce Kashmir as the locals did. Cashmere was a new term for Kashmiri locals, but it gained prominence in Europe, as this new wool variant had brought about a revolution in the fashion world. 

What is Cashmere

Cashmere is the name given to the wool that grows on the body of a rare goat species. These goats are found in Ladakh. The goat grows it as a downfibre, which protects it from one of the coldest temperatures in the world. This wool is acquired, processed and the products are cherished for life. 

Changthang, Ladakh

Changthang, 170 km from Leh in Ladakh is home to a Buddhist tribe called Changpa. Changpa is the community that endures travails while nurturing, tending to and protecting a rare species of mountain goats that have a special wool. The Changpa tribe is a low profile one, and in the absence of electricity and telephones, remain more or less cut off from the main population of the cities. The population hardly receives any education or health facilities, and the development of this tribe has taken a snail pace. Hence the main occupation of the tribesmen and women is rearing animals.

Cattle farming is the basic mode of sustenance of the Changpa tribe, as the arid land hardly grows any crop. And since there is less or no scope for agricultural practices, Changpa rear goats, sheep, yaks, and more animals. Yaks and goats yield milk, which is used to make cheese. Yak hair is also used to make tents, which the tribespeople spend most of their life in. Goats and sheep provide meat.

Production of Cashmere

As soon as summer arrives, after an almost 8 month winter season, the Changpa tribe is ready to acquire Cashmere from the goats. It is the freezing months of winter when the Changpa goats grow fine Cashmere as a down coat. This is bestowed upon them by nature as a blessing, and this coat helps them to survive temperatures that go down to -40 degrees C.

On the arrival of warmer days, the coat is partially naturally shed by the animal. This is collected and the remaining portion is combed out gently. The goat is gently handled during the time when its down hair is to be combed off. It is upturned, and a long toothed comb is moved over the coat so that it gently comes out. Small amounts of Cashmere wool come out with each stroke. The process is painstaking and lengthy, but not for the tribesmen who have been doing the same for centuries now. 

As little as just 300-400 grams of Cashmere is acquired from a single goat. Not more than 3 inches long, and 12 to 16 microns in diameter, the hair is super fine, soft and warm to touch. It is packed in small packets and sold to traders from Leh. These traders travel to Kashmir, and sell the hair to those who process it to make Pashmina shawls, scarves, and more. 

Cashmere comes to Kashmir

As soon as Cashmere wool reaches the valley, it's welcomed by the womenfolk. Something to note here is that Cashmere has been one of the most empowering routes for women, and for this reason, Pashmina shawls aren't just loved but deeply revered by locals. 

Womenfolk from the most remote areas of the valley come together to collect Cashmere wool from the traders. Post this, the wool is thoroughly cleaned by them, and then spinning of the same starts. 

Spinning means converting lumps of Cashmere wool to fine fibre. Exceptionally skilled women from Kashmir have a know-how of this meticulous process since the 15th century. With a perfect rhythm of their hands and the fibre, the wool acquired from Ladakh in the shape of chunks is transformed to fine fibre. This fibre has a diameter of just 12 - 16 microns, and it is just these women who can see, process and handle just delicate and thin threads of Cashmere. 

Weaving Fine Threads

Post spinning, the weaving of Cashmere threads has to be fulfilled. Weaving of the threads would turn fibre to a complete product. For this purpose the traditional handloom, indigenous to Kashmir, is brought to work. Two or three men sit in the two opposite directions of the handloom, and start firing the threads into the loom. This takes a number of days. Post this, the fibre is handwoven for a period of 3 or 4 days, and by the end of this speculated time, a solid Pashmina shawl is ready. This shawl is in a solid form, and is later sent for any embellishments like embroidery, lacing or printing. 

Hence, it is the unmatched skill and competent talents of Kashmiri artisans which lead to lumps of wool being converted to luxury shawls and more. Post weaving, Cashmere isn't just converted to shawls and scarves, but to large fabric pieces. This fabric is used to make apparel, blankets, socks and more. Hence the use is versatile depending upon the demand. 

What is the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina

The process of transforming Cashmere to Pashmina shawls tells us the difference between the two terms. Whileas, Cashmere is the fine wool that grows on the body of the Changthangi goat of Ladakh, Pashmina is the name given to the art of transforming it. Hence the transformation of Cashmere to luxury shawls, scarves, stoles or wraps is an art, which is called the art of Pashmina. 

The Present Scenario: Is Cashmere same as Pashmina

Pashmina and Cashmere are often used as synonyms. But the above-mentioned making process will clear the differences, as will the present scenario faced by Pashmina.

At present, Cashmere is referred to the down fibre of Ladakhi goat which is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. Cashmere yarn is 12-16 microns in diameter and is considered as one of the finest fibres in the world. The yarn is so fine that it is barely visible to the eye and so soft that it sometimes breaks, even by manual stress. It takes the Cashmere of three adult goats to make just one shawl. Naturally, Cashmere fibre is ash-coloured but later when woven, it can be dyed into any colour the wearer likes. 

One of the reasons that Pashmina can't be woven on a machine is that it can't bear the strain that the machine puts on the thread.

Pashmina, on the other hand, is the name given to the art of handcrafting luxury wraps from Cashmere fibre. Hence, Pashmina is the art of spinning and weaving cashmere, the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goat to make luxury shawls, scarves, stoles, and more

Cashmere yarn is a natural fibre and is exceptionally warm and soft. This makes Kashmiri Pashmina shawls the warmest of all wrap accessories. It is said that if you wear a Pashmina shawl, you do not need to put on layers of oversized coats and cardigans in fall and early winter days.

Fake Pashmina: A Blow to Art

In the early 90’s, when Pashmina shawls reached their zenith, several producers started producing fake Pashmina shawls. This was because Pashmina was an expensive product, and making fake pieces would fetch them money, without investing much. Hence, producers used simple sheep wool or mixed the same in Cashmere threads to produce cheaper copies of the lavish Pashmina shawl. 

Nowadays too, the market has been flooded with cheap and fake copies, which are sometimes sold as Cashmere, and the others as Pashmina. The fine Cashmere yarn is often mixed with strength providing silk and nylon threads, and sold as pure Pashmina. This type of Pashmina is purely machine-made, and brings shame to the pure one. Pashmina is the exclusive art, where only pure Cashmere can be used to make luxury accessories. It should be a product of pure skilled craftsmanship and the experience of an artisan should be visible. But contemporary designs and the allure of fast fashion have led to the introduction of machines in this trade. 

However, the grace of pure Pashmina is still unmatched. The way its weaves are uneven, the way its embroidery takes years together to complete, the way it takes the experience of a lifetime of its artisans to perfectly conjure it has no parallel. 

Downfall of Pashmina shawl sales

Customers who are the real patrons of the regal art, identify original Pashmina shawls quite well. For this reason, ardent admirers of Pashmina shawls became really confused about the purchase of these shawls, and after a while chose not to. This was because they needed the original product, which was hardly available. Fake products would last for a few years while original Pashmina shawls would last for decades together. This caused a commotion and ultimately the sales of Pashmina shawls lowered. The situation made real artisans of Pashmina shawls suffer, and ultimately the art reached the lowest point. 

It is very recently that the real advocates of handmade art pieces demanded a ban on the fake shawls. These organisations or individuals came in direct contact with the original shawl makers and promoted them on an international level. 

Pashmina and Slow Fashion

Slow fashion, ethical, and responsible shopping are all buzzwords now. And we are proud to confess that Pashmina has always been a sustainable accessory. One of the many reasons why knowing the difference between Cashmere and Pashmina is so important is the sustainability factor that the luxury wool provides. Right from the start Cashmere is a natural fibre and is acquired manually in an ethical fashion. No animals are harmed in the acquisition of fine Cashmere from the goat’s underbelly and neck. The process is natural, and the super-soft fur is gently combed off the goat’s body and not even sheared. 

Secondly, there is no machine intervention in the making. The process of weaving a Pashmina is manual. It is done over a wooden handloom, where two or more artisans sit at one place and spend four to five days to weave a shawl

A Pashmina shawl or should we say a Cashmere wrap employs local labour and helps survive small enterprises. In that way too, Pashmina, even if on the higher side of the price scale, helps underprivileged communities grow and develop. 

The Bottom Line 

Whether it is called Cashmere or Pashmina, whether a seller is selling you Cashmere or Pashmina, the bottom line is that it should be pure. If you are a seller, it is your responsibility to sell original pieces to your customers so that they know what the ancient art of Pashmina is. But if you are a customer, you have to take special care of what you are buying. Always check the purity of your Pashmina before you buy it. It is a lifetime investment. Buy from a verified dealer, do some checks at home and relish this luxurious treasure for an entire lifetime. Gift it to someone special. Gift Pashmina as wedding favours. Customize the shawls to give as customised gifts for corporate gifting. Present this to a newlywed bride. But make sure the gift is pure, handmade, and full of love.