Cashmere, often described as the epitome of elegance and luxury, is a textile that beautifully embodies the qualities of regality and delicacy. Derived from the soft undercoat of Himalayan goats, this remarkable fiber is famous for its exquisite softness, warmth, and timeless allure. At first glance, cashmere exudes an air of regality that is hard to match. Its fibers, fine and incredibly soft, radiate a sense of opulence that has captivated the hearts of royalty and fashion connoisseurs for centuries. The texture is akin to a whisper, a gentle caress against the skin that speaks of refinement and sophistication. Yet, beneath its regal exterior, it remains remarkably delicate and gentle. Its fibers, finer than human hair, require meticulous care to maintain their exceptional qualities.

Just as a royal jewel must be handled with care to preserve its brilliance, so must cashmere be treated with tenderness to safeguard its softness and warmth. This delicate nature is precisely what makes cashmere so precious. It beckons you to touch it, to feel its gentle embrace against your skin, and to revel in the sensation of unparalleled comfort. When you wear a garment, whether it's a scarf, sweater, or shawl, you experience a level of gentleness that is unrivalled by other fabrics.

The ever-famous Cashmere

The 18th century in Europe saw a profound craze for Cashmere, driven primarily by its unparalleled softness. A luxurious textile originating from the highlands of Kashmir, India, it was unlike any other fabric admired by the European elite at the time.

What set Cashmere apart was its extraordinary softness, a quality that became its defining feature. The fine undercoat of Himalayan goats, native to the Himalayan region, yielded fibers of exceptional fineness, measuring between 12-15 microns in diameter. Artisans meticulously gathered these incredibly fine fibers, sorted, and spun them into yarn in Kashmir. The resulting fabric possessed a level of softness that was simply breathtaking, better than any other textile of the era.

European aristocracy, always in pursuit of the rarest and most exquisite luxuries, fell in love with Cashmere's softness. The sensation of draping a shawl around one's shoulders was akin to being enveloped in a cloud of silk. Its gentle touch against the skin was a revelation, a sensory experience that transcended the boundaries of ordinary fabrics.

The Exquisite Craftsmanship

The softness of Cashmere was not only a tactile delight but also a status symbol. Owning a Cashmere shawl or scarf was a testament to one's elevated social and economic standing. These exclusive textiles were painstakingly crafted, and their production required an intricate and labour-intensive process. From the selective breeding of the goats to the delicate hand-spinning of yarn and the skilled weaving of the fabric, every step of the creation of any Cashmere product was a testament to craftsmanship and artistry.

The Empress Josephine of France, renowned for her impeccable taste in fashion, was a prominent advocate for Cashmere. She possessed a remarkable collection of these shawls, often wearing them with elegance and grace. Josephine's endorsement of Cashmere influenced the fashion trends of her time, making these shawls an essential accessory among the European elite. Historians believe that Empress Josephine owned several hundred Kani shawls in her entire lifetime. She would keep ordering one after the other and would fall in love every time she invested in one.

The Gentle Nature of Cashmere

The regality of Cashmere extends beyond its feel to its appearance. Its rich, lustrous texture and subtle sheen add an air of sophistication to any ensemble. The regal and delicate nature of cashmere extends to its maintenance. Just as royalty requires devoted care, so does this luxury fibre demand attention to ensure its longevity. Hand washing with cold water and mild detergent is the preferred method of cleaning, avoiding the harsh treatment of machine washing. Drying should be done flat on a soft towel to protect its shape and softness, not hung to avoid stretching. Moth protection becomes a necessity to shield it from these textile-destroying insects.

In this delicate balance of regality and gentleness, cashmere has earned its place as a treasured textile. Its regal appearance and gentle touch have charmed the fashion world, making it a symbol of opulence and comfort. And while its delicacy requires careful handling, the reward is an enduring sense of luxury that wraps you in warmth and elegance. Cashmere, the beautiful and regal yet delicate and gentle textile, continues to be a timeless emblem of sophistication and refinement.

The Finesse of Cashmere

Derived from the undercoat of the Himalayan goat, the fine threads are the result of a remarkable natural process, meticulous craftsmanship, and centuries of selective breeding. In this blog, we delve into the artistry of how cashmere is made so fine. We also take into consideration the intricate journey from the goat to the luxurious textile.

The Source: The Himalayan Goat

The Himalayan goat, scientifically known as Capra Hircus, is at the core of cashmere production. These goats are native to regions with extreme temperature variations, such as the high plateaus of Inner Mongolia, China, and the Himalayas. However, specialists believe that the best Cashmere comes from Ladakh, where the Ladakhi Changthangi goat produces it before the onset of winter. To withstand the harsh climate, these goats have developed a unique double-layered coat

Guard Hairs: The outer layer consists of coarse guard hairs that provide protection against the cold and harsh elements.

Undercoat: Beneath the guard hairs lies the coveted undercoat. This layer is incredibly soft, fine, and downy, making it the focus of cashmere production. It is this inner coat that ensures that the goat survives the harsh winter of the cold area. It is exceptionally soft, fine and smooth.

Natural Selection and Breeding

Over centuries, herders in cashmere-producing regions have selectively bred goats to enhance the quality of their undercoats. This careful breeding process focuses on characteristics such as fineness, length, and colour of the fibers.

• Fineness: Selectively breeding goats with finer undercoats produces cashmere with a smaller fiber diameter, which is a hallmark of superior quality.
• Length: Longer fibers are famous for their strength and durability, allowing for the creation of high-quality garments.
• Colour: The natural colour of cashmere varies from white to shades of grey and brown. While white is the most coveted, the diversity in colour provides options for different natural shades without the need for dye. Traditionally, the khudrang/zati or the natural colour of Cashmere was the most admired one.

Harvesting the Undercoat

Himalayan goats undergo a natural moulting process during the spring, shedding their undercoat as the weather warms. This shedding is not uniform across the entire coat but occurs in patches or sections. As such, there are lumps of fine Cashmere around the areas that goats inhabit. Herders pick these lumps manually and collect them in a single place

To harvest the fine cashmere fibers, herders engage in a labour-intensive process known as hand-combing or hand-gathering. This process is completely cruelty-free. It makes sure the animal isn't harmed during the time. This delicate technique involves:

• Gentle Separation: Separating the fine undercoat from the coarser guard hairs without causing damage to the delicate fibers.
• Manual Plucking: Carefully plucking the soft undercoat from the goat's skin by hand. This is not hurtful for the animal as the process is completely cruelty-free.
• Collection: Gathering the harvested Cashmere into bags for further processing is the next step. The fibres are cleaned and sorted on a primary level. Workers then send them to Kashmir for spinning and weaving.

Sorting and Grading

After harvesting, the cashmere fibers undergo an initial sorting process to remove any impurities, such as dirt and coarse hairs. This stage ensures that only the fine undercoat is retained. It is graded based on the fineness, length, and colour of the fiber.

Cleaning and Processing

The sorted cashmere fibers are then thoroughly cleaned to remove any remaining impurities. This involves washing with mild detergents and cold water to ensure the fibers retain their softness and purity.

To create fine, even strands suitable for weaving, the cleaned cashmere fibers undergo carding and combing processes. These techniques align the fibers and remove any tangles or knots, resulting in a smooth and uniform texture.

Spinning and Weaving

The processed fibers are spun into yarn using traditional spinning techniques, done over the traditional spinning wheel called Yinder locally. This method creates yarns of immense finesse and smooth texture to suit the intended use of the cashmere. The yarn thus formed measures just 12 to 15 microns in thickness.

The yarn is woven into the fabric using traditional weaving looms. The density and pattern of the weave can vary, giving rise to a wide range of textiles, from scarves and shawls to sweaters and coats.

Embroidery or Patterning

Cashmere wraps can be embellished in a number of ways. One of the traditional ways to adorn these wraps is with hand embroidery. Lightweight threads are used to create breathtaking motifs on Cashmere wraps. Other than embroidery, printing, patterning, Ombre dyeing and lacing are some ways to embellish these luxury pieces.

The Final Touches

Before reaching the market, cashmere textiles undergo a series of finishing processes, which may include washing, softening, and ironing. Each piece is carefully inspected for any imperfections, ensuring the highest quality.

Skilled artisans and designers transform the cashmere fabric into a variety of luxury garments and accessories. The craftsmanship of these artisans contributes to the final product's elegance and appeal.

How to Wash Cashmere?

Washing, when done correctly, can help extend the life of your cherished garments and accessories. In this blog, we will walk you through the step-by-step process of washing cashmere to ensure that your favourite pieces remain soft, beautiful, and timeless.

What makes Cashmere unique?

Before delving into the washing process, it's essential to understand what makes cashmere special:

• Exceptional Softness: Cashmere fibers are incredibly fine, measuring between 12-15 microns in diameter. This fineness contributes to its unparalleled softness.
• Lightweight and Warm: Despite its delicacy, cashmere provides exceptional warmth without the bulk of traditional wool.
• Luxurious Feel: Cashmere is synonymous with luxury due to its texture, which is soft, silky, and gentle against the skin.
• Breathability: Cashmere is a natural insulator, regulating body temperature and allowing your skin to breathe.

When to Wash Cashmere?

The Less Frequent, the Better: Cashmere does not require frequent washing. In fact, washing it too often can lead to unnecessary wear and potential damage. You should only wash it when it's visibly soiled or has absorbed odours.

Spot Cleaning: For minor stains or spills, consider spot cleaning the affected area using a mild detergent and cold water. Gently blot the stain, rather than rubbing it, to avoid pushing the stain further into the fabric

Hand Washing

The most preferred way of cleaning a wrap, scarf or outfit is hand washing the same at home. Here is what to keep in mind:

Materials Needed:

• Mild Detergent for Delicates: Opt for a detergent specially formulated for delicate fabrics. Avoid detergents that contain bleach or enzymes, as they can damage cashmere fibers.
• Large Basin or Sink: Ensure it's clean and free of residues from other detergents.
• Cold Water: Cashmere should always be washed in cold water to prevent shrinkage and damage.
• Soft Towels: You'll need soft and clean towels for drying cashmere.
• A Gentle Touch: Approach the washing process with a gentle touch to avoid stretching or damaging the fibers.

Process of Hand Washing:

• Fill the Basin: Fill a basin or sink with cold water. Avoid hot or warm water, as it can cause cashmere to shrink.
• Add the Detergent: Add a small amount of mild detergent designed for delicates to the cold water. Follow the detergent's instructions for the appropriate amount.
• Gently Submerge: Immerse the cashmere garment in the soapy water. Gently press it down to allow the detergent to penetrate the fibers. Avoid rubbing or scrubbing, as this can cause friction and damage.
• Soak and Swirl: Let the garment soak for a brief period (approximately 5-10 minutes), allowing the detergent to break down any dirt or oils. You can gently swirl the water to encourage the cleaning process.
• Rinse Carefully: After soaking, empty the basin and refill it with clean, cold water. Gently lift the cashmere garment out of the soapy water without wringing or twisting it. Rinse the garment gently until you remove all detergent.
• Repeat if Necessary: If the garment or wrap is still soapy or feels slippery, repeat the rinse process until the water runs clear.
• Gently Squeeze Out Excess Water: Once thoroughly rinsed, gently press the cashmere against the side of the basin or sink to remove excess water. Do not wring or twist the fabric, as this can lead to stretching and distortion.

Drying

For drying Cashmere, you need a number of materials

• Clean, Dry Towels: You'll use these to help absorb excess water.
• Flat Surface: Choose a clean, flat surface for drying your cashmere garment. Avoid hanging it, as this can lead to stretching.

Process of Drying

• Lay Flat on a Towel: Lay a clean, dry towel on a flat surface, such as a bed or a clean countertop.
• Place the Cashmere on the Towel: Gently place your rinsed garment flat on the towel, reshaping it to its original dimensions if needed.
• Roll and Press: Roll the towel and cashmere together, pressing gently as you go. This helps absorb excess water from the fabric.
• Unroll and Repeat: Unroll the towel and cashmere, then repeat the process with a dry towel if necessary until the cashmere is no longer dripping wet.
• Air Dry: Lay the cashmere garment on a fresh, dry towel or a clean, flat surface in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Allow it to air dry naturally. Avoid hanging, as this can cause stretching.

Preventing Moth Damage

Cashmere is susceptible to damage from moths, especially when stored for extended periods. To prevent moth damage:

• Use Natural Repellents: Consider placing cedar blocks or sachets of dried lavender in your storage areas. These natural repellents can deter moths.
• Airtight Containers: Store your cashmere garments in airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags to prevent moths from accessing them.
• Regular Inspection: Periodically inspect your cashmere items for any signs of moth damage, such as small holes or loose fibers.

Dealing with Wrinkles

If your cashmere garment develops wrinkles or creases, consider using a handheld steamer on the lowest setting to gently smooth them out. Alternatively, you can hang the garment in a steamy bathroom while you shower to allow the wrinkles to naturally release. Be sure to handle the cashmere gently during this process to avoid stretching or damaging the fibers.

If you choose to iron your cashmere, do so with caution. Use the lowest heat setting and place a cloth or a clean cotton tea towel between the iron and the cashmere to avoid direct contact. Keep the iron moving to prevent burning or scorching

Storage Between Seasons

Cleaning Before Storage:

Before storing your cashmere items between seasons, make sure they are clean and completely dry. This helps prevent any dirt, oils, or moisture from attracting pests.

Fold Neatly

Fold your garments neatly to avoid stretching and distortion. Hanging them for extended periods can lead to stretching at the shoulders.

Avoid Plastic Bags

Avoid storing cashmere in plastic bags, as they can trap moisture and promote the growth of mold or mildew.

Use Airtight Containers

Whenever possible, store cashmere items in airtight containers or vacuum-sealed bags to protect them from moths and other pests

What happens if you wash a Cashmere scarf?

Washing a cashmere scarf, while possible, requires careful attention and a gentle approach to avoid damaging this delicate fabric. Here's what happens when you wash a cashmere scarf:

• Shrinking: Cashmere is highly susceptible to shrinkage when exposed to water that's too hot. If you wash your scarf in hot water, it can become significantly smaller, rendering it unwearable.
• Loss of Softness: Cashmere's softness is one of its defining characteristics. Improper washing, especially with harsh detergents or rough handling, can lead to the fibers becoming rough and less gentle against the skin.
• Pilling: Aggressive washing or rubbing can cause pilling, the formation of small, unsightly balls of fiber on the surface of the scarf. Pilling can make the scarf look worn and unattractive.
• Stretching: Cashmere fibers can stretch when soaked in water, especially if the scarf is hung or wrung out, which can lead to the loss of its original shape.
• Color Fading: Washing a cashmere scarf with harsh detergents or exposing it to direct sunlight can result in color fading. Your once-vibrant scarf may become dull and less attractive.
• Damage to Fibers: Harsh washing methods, including using a washing machine or wringing the scarf, can damage the delicate fibers. They can become weakened, increasing the risk of snags and tears.
• Loss of Texture: Cashmere is famous for its luxurious texture. Incorrect washing methods can cause the fibers to become matted, resulting in a less appealing texture.
• Potential Moth Damage: After washing, if the scarf is not stored properly, it may become a target for clothes moths. Moths are attracted to natural fibers like cashmere, and their larvae can cause irreparable damage by creating holes in the fabric

Concluding

In conclusion, washing a cashmere scarf is a delicate process that requires careful attention to detail and a gentle touch. While it is possible to wash this luxury fabric, it is essential to approach the task with caution to preserve the scarf's exceptional qualities. Washing it incorrectly can lead to a range of issues, including shrinking, loss of softness, pilling, stretching, colour fading, and even potential damage to the delicate fibers.

To avoid these pitfalls, it's advisable to follow specific guidelines when washing cashmere. Hand washing with cold water and a mild detergent designed for delicate fabrics is the preferred method. Avoid wringing, twisting, or rubbing the scarf during washing and drying, as these actions can lead to stretching and distortion.

Additionally, it's essential to be proactive in preventing stains and maintaining cleanliness to reduce the need for frequent washing. Spot cleaning minor stains and proper storage between uses can help extend the life of your cashmere scarf without subjecting it to the rigours of washing. By following these guidelines and treating your scarf with the care it deserves, you can ensure that it remains a cherished and elegant part of your wardrobe.

Also read: How to care for Cashmere in travel?