Pashmina is an art that originates from Kashmir. This art is something that artisans have perfected for centuries now. Processing fine Cashmere to make Pashmina shawls needs hard work, meticulous efforts, and immense patience, and that is what craftsmen display. 

What is Pashmina?

Pashmina is the art of handcrafting luxury wraps, shawls, scarves, and stoles - from fine Cashmere. The finest raw Cashmere comes from Ladakh, and artisans process it in Kashmir, awaiting this gossamer fine wool variant. 

The Source of Pashmina: Changthangi Goats

Pashmina, often referred to as "soft gold," originates from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats, a unique breed found in the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats, also called Pashmina goats, have well-adapted to the harsh, cold climate of the region, where temperatures can drop as low as -40°C. This extreme environment is precisely what allows these goats to produce the incredibly fine and warm undercoat. Artisans later transform the coat into luxurious Pashmina shawls.

The Changthangi goats naturally develop a thick undercoat during the winter months to protect themselves from the freezing temperatures. This undercoat, or “pashm,” is what makes Pashmina so special. The wool fibers are exceptionally fine, measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter, which is about six times finer than human hair. This fineness gives Pashmina its renowned softness, making it highly sought after in the world of luxury textiles.

Every spring, as the weather warms, the goats naturally shed this undercoat. Artisans then carefully comb the fibre out by hand, ensuring that the goats remain unharmed in the process. This ethical and sustainable method of collecting the wool further adds to the value and appeal of authentic Pashmina shawls. Once harvested, the raw Pashmina wool undergoes a meticulous process of cleaning, spinning, and weaving, often done by skilled artisans who have inherited the craft through generations.

History of Pashmina Shawls in Kashmir

In the 16th century, a saint, named Shah E Hamdan, from Persia, traveled to Kashmir for religious preaching. It was him who discovered Raw Cashmere for the first time in Ladakh. Seeing its softness and smooth texture, Shah E Hamdan ordered a few artisans to make a pair of socks out of this wool. The socks was luxurious and hence presented to Zain ul Abideen, the then king of Kashmir. He too was highly impressed so much that he ordered processing units of Cashmere to be set in Kashmir. Additionally,he ordered Persian craftsmen to train locals in spinning and weaving of Kashmir, and hence it all started from this moment. Later people from all over the world visited Kashmir. A major portion of Europeans visited Kashmir regularly, and later Pashmina shawls were exported in bulk to European countries. 

Also read: What is so special about Pashmina shawls?

What does the word ‘Pashmina’ mean?

The word Pashmina comes from ‘Pashm’. Pashm is a Persian word that literally translates to ‘soft gold’. In Kashmir, Pashmina is the art of transforming soft Cashmere wool into luxury shawls, stoles, or wearable accessories. 

What are Pashmina shawls made of?

Pashmina shawls come of the finest Cashmere wool which comes from Ladakh. Changthang region of Ladakh hosts an exotic variety of goats, which grow Cashmere as down fibre. Artisans acquire this down fibre in the Summer season and process it to make Pashmina products.

How is Pashmina obtained?

Harvesting cashmere wool is a meticulous and delicate process that requires both skill and patience. The wool comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goats, specifically the Changthangi goats of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. These goats develop a fine, soft undercoat to protect themselves from the harsh winter climates, where temperatures can plummet to extreme lows.

Over the mighty Himalayas, the Capra Hircus goat is found in Changthang, Ladakh. For this reason, it is also called Changthangi goat. The goat can survive at any place in Ladakh. But the ones found over 14000 feet are the ones that survive, as well as grow Cashmere. The growth of this fine and ultra-smooth wool is an adaptive response to the harsh terrain where winter temperature falls to -40 degrees. Raw Cashmere has a unique sheen, and fine fibres are as thin as 12-16 microns in diameter. Note that the human hair has an average diameter of 50 microns, and this makes Cashmere about 1/4th of a human hair!

Harvesting the wool : Spring Season

The process of harvesting cashmere begins in the spring, when the goats naturally start to shed their winter undercoat. This shedding is a natural process that aligns with the warming temperatures, making it the ideal time to collect the wool. Unlike other types of wool that herders obtain by shearing, the same people acquire cashmere by hand-combing the goats. This method is both gentle and efficient. It ensures that only the finest, softest fibers are collected without harming the animals.

The finest of Cashmere comes from Changthang, Ladakh where Buddhist nomadic herders (known as Changpas) rear goats. They collect Cashmere by professionally combing the goats in late spring and early summer when goats molt. Herders do not shear goats, but comb them to avoid fiber breakage and to maintain the fibre length.

Once herders harvest the wool, it undergoes a process of cleaning to remove any impurities, followed by spinning and weaving by skilled artisans. The entire process, from harvesting to the final product, reflects the traditional craftsmanship and the deep connection between the herders and their animals, ensuring that cashmere remains a luxurious and highly valued material in the world of fashion.

Processing of Cashmere (Making of Pashmina Shawls)

The art of Pashmina making is an ancient one. But it hardly matters to Kashmiri artisans who have long perfected it. Due to the extremely fragile nature of Cashmere fibre, Kashmiri craftsmen and women have always preferred to use hands while processing it. The strain of a machine would break the fibre, and it would lose its distinctive nature. As soon as Cashmere reaches Srinagar, womenfolk welcome it, and start with its cleaning. They clean the wool by hand, and remove any foreign particle attached to the fibre. Then they place it in a container full of rice powder. This way, it gains more strength and luster. 

After three days, workers remove Cashmere from this mixture and clean it thoroughly. Now they send it to craftsmen, who await its arrival for spinning it. Spinners spin the fibre on a wooden spinning wheel called ‘Yinder’ locally. Spinning transforms lumps of wool into fine threads. As long threads come out of the spinning wheel, handloom workers take it and transform them into luxury Pashmina shawls, stoles, hijabs, scarves, and apparel. 

It takes around 4-5 days for a two-meter-long shawl to complete. It is still in its solid form. Next, it requires embroidery (if requested). There are mainly three types of embroidery patterns in Pashmina. Fine thread and needle embroidery called Sozni, thick thread and needle embroidery called Papier Mache embroidery, and metallic thread embroidery called Tilla embroidery. 

Purity of Pashmina shawls

Unlike hand-spun pashmina, many traders often deal with machine-spun yarn. In such cases, Cashmere is spun in machines. The machine spinning process, however, requires strengthening the yarn by the addition of chemicals. This, in turn, alters the characteristic nature of the fibre. Hence, such kinds of Pashmina shawls aren't as soft and have less life. 

Manual processing of Cashmere results in extra fine, smooth and warm Pashmina shawls. Traditional Kashmiri hand-weaving and hand spinning techniques impart a unique texture to the shawls, which sets them visibly apart from machine-made counterparts.

To qualify for a Geographical Indication certification, it is mandatory that Cashmere is hand-woven from hand-spun in Kashmir. A piece of fabric cannot qualify as a pure pashmina if it is machine-made. 

Also read: Pure Pashmina - Myths and Facts

Pure Pashmina is Expensive

Pure Pashmina shawls are expensive. This is because a few women artisans hand spin the Cashmere yarn, and hence it is scarce. In addition to this, the acquisition of fibre is a difficult task and is often short in supply as compared to demand. Moreover, the manual labour which goes into making Pashmina shawls, makes it more valuable than other types of winter wool. 

At times, Pashmina shawls with full embroidery designs take 4-5 years to complete. 

Comparing Pashmina with Other Types of Wool

When considering luxurious fabrics, Pashmina often stands out for its unparalleled softness, warmth, and elegance. But how does it compare to other types of wool? To answer this, it's essential to understand the unique qualities that Pashmina offers. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of" provides a clue to its distinctiveness. Pashmina shawls come from the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goat, native to the high-altitude regions of Ladakh in the Himalayas. This specific origin and the meticulous process of hand-combing the wool set Pashmina apart from other wools.

Compared to Merino wool, which is famous for its softness, Pashmina is even finer and softer. Merino wool fibers typically measure around 20 microns in diameter, whereas Pashmina fibers can be as fine as 12 to 15 microns. This fineness gives Pashmina its signature smooth texture and makes it much more delicate than Merino, contributing to its luxurious feel.

In contrast to regular sheep’s wool, which is coarser and more commonly used in everyday textiles, Pashmina is far superior in both quality and comfort. Regular wool is typically thicker, ranging from 25 to 30 microns, and can feel rough or itchy against the skin, whereas Pashmina's ultra-fine fibers create a silky, non-irritating touch.

Hence, when asking "What are Pashmina shawls made of," the answer highlights not just the material, but the exceptional qualities that differentiate Pashmina from other types of wool. Indeed, it is a symbol of luxury and timeless elegance.

The Role of Artisans in Crafting Pashmina Shawls

The creation of a Pashmina shawl is not just a process; it's an art form, steeped in centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. When asking, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" one must consider not only the raw material - the fine undercoat of the Changthangi goats - but also the skilled hands of the artisans who transform this raw material into exquisite works of art.

Pashmina shawls come from Cashmere wool. Herders painstakingly hand-comb the wool from the underbelly of the goats. However, it is the artisans who elevate this wool into something truly special. Each step, from spinning the wool into fine threads to weaving and embellishing the fabric, requires a high level of skill and patience. These craftspeople, often based in the Kashmir Valley, inherit their techniques through generations, mastering the art of working with this delicate material.

The weaving process is done on traditional handlooms, where artisans meticulously interlace the threads to create the shawl’s fabric. This is a labor-intensive process that can take several days to weeks, depending on the complexity of the design. The true beauty of a Pashmina shawl often lies in its intricate patterns and embroidery, which are also hand-crafted by these skilled artisans. These embellishments, whether simple or elaborate, add a personal touch that machine-made products cannot replicate.

Moreover, the role of the artisan extends beyond technical skill; it is their deep understanding of the material and their cultural heritage that imbues each shawl with its unique character. The question "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" thus encompasses not just the physical components, but the rich tradition, creativity, and craftsmanship of the artisans who bring these shawls to life.

Evolution of Pashmina shawls

Earlier, Pashmina shawls hosted just a few designs. Either Pashmina shawls were hand embroidered, solid, or Kani shawls. But with time, these luxury assets too adapted to modern needs and introduced contemporary patterns into this realm. Chic stripes and checks, Animal prints, abstract patterns, Ombre shades, laced, and Swarovski studded Pashmina shawls too are available today in their purest forms.

Also read: Pashmina Embroideries | The Exquisite Craftsmanship

Why is Pashmina a Luxury Art Form

People have ever since revered Pashmina as a symbol of luxury and sophistication. And it is not just for the material it comes from, but also for the artistry in its creation. When one asks, "What are Pashmina shawls made of?" the answer goes beyond just the fine Cashmere wool from the Changthangi goats of Ladakh; it also encompasses the centuries-old craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail that transform this raw material into a masterpiece.

Pashmina shawls are made of some of the finest and rarest fibers in the world, which are painstakingly hand-combed from the underbelly of the goats. This wool is incredibly soft, lightweight, and warm, making it highly sought after. However, it’s the human element - the skillful hands of the Kashmiri artisans - that truly elevates Pashmina to an art form. The process involves delicate spinning, weaving, and sometimes intricate embroidery, all done by hand. Each shawl can take weeks, even months, to complete, depending on the complexity of the design.

The artisans who create Pashmina shawls are not just weavers; they are artists who bring generations of knowledge and cultural heritage into every piece they craft. The designs often reflect local traditions and motifs, making each shawl a unique representation of the region’s rich history. This level of craftsmanship, combined with the rarity of the material, positions Pashmina in a league of its own, far removed from mass-produced goods.

Caring for Your Pashmina Shawl: Maintenance Tips

Understanding the delicate nature of Pashmina is essential for proper care. This is especially when considering "What are Pashmina shawls made of." These luxurious shawls come from the finest Cashmere wool. Herders source Cashmere from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats in Ladakh. This rare and delicate fiber requires special attention to maintain its softness, warmth, and beauty over time.

To keep your Pashmina shawl in pristine condition, start by handling it with care. Avoid wearing it in situations where it can get stained or snagged, as the fine fibers are prone to damage. When not in use, store your Pashmina in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, which can cause the colors to fade. It’s advisable to fold the shawl neatly and place it in a breathable cotton bag to protect it from dust and moths.

When it comes to cleaning, it’s important to remember what Pashmina shawls are made of. It is the delicate Cashmere wool that one should not subject to harsh chemicals or rough treatment. Hand washing in cold water with a mild detergent is the safest method. Gently agitate the shawl in the water without wringing or twisting it, as this can cause the fibers to stretch or break. Rinse thoroughly and press out excess water by rolling the shawl in a clean towel.

After washing, lay the shawl flat to dry on a clean, dry surface, away from direct heat or sunlight. Never hang your Pashmina to dry, as this can cause it to lose its shape. With proper care, your Pashmina shawl will remain a cherished part of your wardrobe for years to come, retaining the luxurious qualities that make it so special.

Conclusion

In exploring the question, "What are Pashmina shawls made of," we've delved into the intricate journey that transforms raw Cashmere wool into one of the most coveted luxury items in the world. The answer lies not only in the fine fibers sourced from the underbelly of the Changthangi goats but also in the hands of the skilled artisans who painstakingly craft each shawl. This delicate process, rooted in centuries of tradition, ensures that every Pashmina shawl embodies the essence of luxury, warmth, and unparalleled softness.

The uniqueness of Pashmina shawls is defined by their exceptional quality and the artistry involved in their creation. The Cashmere wool, known for its rarity and fineness, is meticulously spun and woven, resulting in a fabric that is both lightweight and incredibly warm. What sets Pashmina apart from other types of wool is not just its origin but the care and craftsmanship that go into every piece, making each shawl a true work of art.

Understanding "What are Pashmina shawls made of" also means appreciating the cultural and historical significance of these shawls. They are more than just fashion accessories; they are symbols of heritage, tradition, and the extraordinary skill of the artisans who bring them to life.

As you wrap yourself in a Pashmina shawl, you’re not just embracing a piece of fabric; you’re embracing centuries of history, craftsmanship, and a legacy that continues to be cherished across the globe. By appreciating the origins and artistry behind Pashmina shawls, you can truly value the luxury and warmth they bring to your wardrobe, making them timeless treasures for generations to come.