The ancient art of fabric painting has started to become an essential pattern in Pashmina's making. Being widespread in the northern and western regions, we too adopted Kalamkari work in our certified collections.

India's rich artistic legacy is exemplified by the exquisite craftsmanship and ageless tradition found in kamandkari shawls. These intricately designed shawls, which are handmade or block-printed in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana using natural dyes, are influenced by mythology, the natural world, and folklore. Crafted by skilled artisans who have refined their techniques over several generations, each piece tells a story. Kalamkari shawls are more than just a fashion statement; with their vivid colors and intricate designs, they are works of wearable art that capture the spirit of Indian culture and artistic genius.

Pashmina shawls have been a savior for the locals ever since these luxury wraps got an introduction in the valley for the first time. Other than being the greatest rescuer when the valley was at its coldest, Pashmina shawls were an investment. In fact, people would sell off pieces of these shawls during a financial need. Hence, Pashmina shawls are more than fashion accessories and receive greatly reverence by the older generation. And if you have grown up listening to stories about your grandmother's heirloom shawl passing through generations, it is definitely a Pashmina shawl.

The purpose of raw Cashmere wool being handwoven to make luxury Pashmina shawls was initially to keep one warm. It was a Sufi saint and traveler, who visited Kashmir. He discovered Cashmere wool in Ladakh, growing over the underbelly of an exotic goat. He ordered workers to craft a pair of socks out of it for the then king; the king found the socks immensely warm and comfortable.

But as time passed, Pashmina became more unaffordable for commoners. Now, it was a fashion accessory for the affluent. And as a fashion accessory, it had to adhere to certain rules. These rules included being appropriate for all ages and adapting every design. Thread embroideries of certain types, printed Pashmina shawls, shawls with laces, and monochrome shawls came into existence. Pashmina seamlessly adopted these very well, looking as elegant in one as in the other. One of the exceptionally exquisite patterns in Pashmina shawls is the kalamkari pattern.

What is Kalamkari?

Indian calligraphy, or kalamkari, is a traditional art style that uses natural dyes and hand painting or block printing on cloth to create beautiful designs. Because of the painstaking hand sketching process required to create these exquisite sculptures, the word "Kalamkari" is derived from the Persian words "kalam," which means pen, and "kari," which means craftsmanship. Kalamkari art has its roots in the religious and cultural customs of the Andhra Pradesh and Telangana regions of India. It frequently includes representations of nature, animals, and holy characters in addition to themes from Hindu epics.

A bamboo or tamarind pen is used to draw the outlines, and natural dyes made from plants, roots, and minerals are used to fill in the colors. The laborious procedure entails several processes. The cloth is treated with cow dung and milk.

Beyond its use as ornamental art, kalamkari represents a rich cultural legacy that has been handed down through the ages. Under the Mughal rulers' patronage, the art flourished and ultimately achieved prominence in European marketplaces through trade. Nowadays, kalamkari is utilized to create a variety of goods, such as tablecloths and wall hangings for home décor in addition to sarees and shawls. Because of the artisan's expertise and the cultural histories they aim to maintain, each piece of Kalamkari work is unique. Known for its intricate workmanship, stunning natural surroundings, and cultural value, Kalamkari survives despite the difficulties presented by contemporary mass production.

In other way, the word Kalamkari comes from two different words 'Kalam' meaning 'Pen', and 'Kari' meaning 'work'. Hence Kalamkari literally means the work of the pen. A kalamkari is an art form, which includes drawing with a pen on fabric with hands; using a brush and a few natural dyes. Also, Kalamkari art is common in Isfahan (Iran). They use plant-based paints and dyes, and a naturally made bamboo brush, and handcraft brilliant motifs over the shawls. These shawls last long for generations to cherish.

History of Kalamkari

It is 3000 B.C when historians believe the art of Kalamkari dates back to. Archeologists too have dug up certain sites of Mohenjo Daro and found kalamkari patterns of some fabric rags. Some believe that in the 13th century, a group of artists travelled to teach pupils Hindu mythology. To do so, they would paint large pieces of canvas with vegetable dyes, and paint made from plant extracts. This was the first time that Kalamkari was done. Later, artisans used the art to make wall hangings to decorate temples and other religious places for Hindus.

The almost 3,000-year-old Kalamkari art heritage is intricately entwined with the history of Kalamkari shawls. Hindu epics and religious storylines were depicted in this age-old art form from its inception in the southeast Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The art form first took shape in temple towns, when artisans known as Chitrakars would paint enormous panels with scenes from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and other legendary stories. These panels were utilized as backdrops for religious performances or to decorate the walls of temples. This tradition was distinguished by the use of natural dyes and painstaking hand-painting processes, where each work showcased the artist's talent and dedication.

Kalamkari art gained a great deal of attention and developed into a more intricate and sophisticated technique during the Mughal dynasty. Shawls and other textiles started to be adorned with elaborate designs and patterns as a result of the Mughal monarchs' encouragement of the arts' growth and admiration for artistry. Since they frequently combined traditional Indian components with Persian art-inspired flower patterns, vines, and other motifs, Kalamkari shawls have become widely prized for their superb craftsmanship and complex symbolism. These shawls were status symbols as much as articles of apparel, signifying the wearer's affluence and taste in fine art. The skill also became well-known throughout the world when Indian traders sent Kalamkari textiles—including shawls—to European marketplaces, where their beauty and individuality made them extremely valuable.

Because of mass-produced textiles and industrialization, Kalamkari shawls lost their appeal in the 19th and 20th centuries. But in the late 20th century, the craft saw a renaissance because to the work of craftspeople, cultural preservationists, and government programs that promoted the revival of traditional crafts. These days, Kalamkari shawls are prized for their symbolic meaning and cultural importance, representing India's rich artistic legacy. To ensure that this age-old art form is still relevant in the modern world, current Kalamkari artisans innovate with new designs and motifs while adhering to traditional procedures. Today, the shawls are prized for being a special representation of India's ongoing inventiveness as well as a link to its historical past.

Kalamkari under Islamic Rule

Kalamkari art flourished and underwent major modification under Islamic control, especially during the Mughal era. When Islamic kings arrived in India, they brought with them fresh cultural influences that merged with pre-existing customs, resulting in the development of an original creative style. Recognized for their support of the arts, the Mughals acknowledged the delicate beauty of Kalamkari and worked to further its growth. The themes and motifs employed in Kalamkari underwent a change at this time, with the conventional representations of Hindu mythology being accompanied by distinctly Persian-inspired designs, including geometric shapes, arabesques, and elaborate flower patterns. A harmonic fusion of Islamic and Hindu creative traditions could be seen in the workmanship, signifying the syncretic culture that typified much of India during the Islamic era.

The art saw more modification and reached its zenith in the medieval Islamic rule. This was under the Golconda rule (Golconda Nizams rule). It was the Mughals who played a vital role in encouraging the development of the Kalamkari art. People called the artisans. who learned and practiced Kalamari, as Kalamkars, and this is how the name 'Kalamkari' emerged. Before this time, Kalamkari was called Pattachitra, ('Patta' meaning 'Cloth', and 'Chitra' meaning 'Picture'). Now Kalamkari received a high influence of Persian art under Islamic rule. It was the period when this art form was at its peak.

During this time, textiles tailored to the preferences of the Mughal royalty were produced by "kalamkars," or Kalamkari artists. These comprised intricate prayer rugs, wall hangings, and, most prominently, sophisticatedly designed shawls. Though the color pallet broadened to incorporate more sophisticated and subdued tones preferred by the Mughal court, the use of natural dyes remained a fundamental component of the trade. Additionally, the Mughal influence promoted a more sophisticated and meticulous approach to Kalamkari, with craftsmen focusing more on the accuracy and delicacy of their work. The resultant textiles not only served as useful items but also as artistic creations that showcased the opulent way of life and refined taste of the Mughal aristocracy.

The international reputation of Kalamkari also began during the Mughal era, when Indian textiles—including those produced with Kalamkari techniques—became highly prized trade items. Due to the extraordinary quality and distinctive designs of these fabrics, merchants from Europe and the Middle East became interested in them, creating a thriving export business. European purchasers took a particular interest in kalamkari shawls because of their exotic beauty and fine craftsmanship. Thus, the Kalamkari art evolved during this period of Islamic governance, becoming a worldwide known form of artistic expression rather than a strictly religious and local trade. This era's influence may still be seen today, as contemporary Kalamkari continues to be influenced by the diverse range of cultures that shaped its history.

Also read: Kashmir - The state famous for Pashmina Craft

Kalamkari work is of two different types

Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam are the two main types of Kalamkari art, each having its own distinctive traits and methods.

Srikalahasti Style

Named after the Andhra Pradesh town of Srikalahasti, this style is completely hand-drawn using a pen-like instrument called a "kalam," which is how it is drawn. Often featuring scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata as well as other mythological themes, the Srikalahasti style is renowned for its narrative-driven designs. Natural dyes are used to fill in the detailed patterns and figures that are hand-drawn during the labor-intensive procedure. Characteristics of this style include the use of earthy tones and the emphasis on religious and mythological themes. A priceless example of traditional Indian art, Srikalahasti Kalamkari is widely regarded for its accuracy and creative expression.

Srikalahasti style is actually the detailed hand painting over a shawl. This method uses a brush made from bamboo, and dyes extracted from plants, completely non-chemical. It is produced in a place which is called Srikalahasti in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. This style of art has been registered as one of the geographical indications (GI) from Andhra Pradesh, under the handicraft goods, by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Characteristics of Srikalahasti style

The Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari is distinguished from other textile art styles by a number of unique characteristics, including:

1. Designs Completely Hand-Drawn: Srikalahasti Kalamkari is completely hand-drawn, in contrast to other Kalamkari forms that could make use of block printing. Artists painstakingly draw intricate designs and figures straight into the fabric using a "kalam," or pen, fashioned from bamboo or tamarind twigs.
2. Stance of Mythology: The style in question is recognized for its portrayal of narrative sequences from Hindu epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as stories from the Puranas. These scenes are linked to mythological and religious themes. The artwork has great spiritual and cultural significance because the designs usually feature deities, mythological figures, and religious symbols.
3. Natural Dyes: Only natural dyes made from different plants, roots, minerals, and other organic sources are used in the Srikalahasti style. Earthy reds, browns, indigos, and blacks are typical hues, which are laboriously and delicately applied to the cloth.
4. Exquisite Detailing: Srikalahasti Kalamkari's hand-drawn style makes for extraordinarily elaborate and detailed designs. The intricate borders, delicate lines, and realistic depictions of people and scenes are typical of the intricate designs, which highlight the artisan's dexterity and expertise.
5. Work-Intensive Process: The process of making a piece of Srikalahasti Kalamkari is labor-intensive and takes various steps, such as treating the fabric with natural substances like milk and cow dung, drawing the designs, adding the dyes, and washing and drying it several times. This drawn-out procedure guarantees that every piece is exceptional and unique.
6. Natural Themes and Earthy Toned Paintings: Srikalahasti Kalamkari's main style is traditional, emphasizing earthy tones. Not only is the art a decorative form but it also serves as a vehicle for religious expression and narrative since it frequently reflects the cultural and spiritual ethos of the area.

The Machilipatnam Style

The Machilipatnam Style, so named after the Andhra Pradesh town of Machilipatnam, is renowned for its block-printing method. Machilipatnam Kalamkari, in contrast to Srikalahasti, entails carving elaborate patterns onto wooden blocks, which are subsequently soaked in natural dyes and pressed onto fabric. Larger amounts of cloth can be produced with this process since it produces more consistent and repeating patterns. Islamic art has had a historical effect on Machilipatnam Kalamkari designs, which frequently incorporate geometric patterns, floral motifs, and Persian-inspired features. Sarees, dupattas, and home décor items are frequently made in the brilliant colors and intricate patterns of the Machilipatnam style.

Machilipatnam style means when artisans block paint the fabric. Artists specializing in this method use vegetable dyes.  They apply the dyes to the fabric with the help of wooden blocks. Also called Pedana Kalamkari, artisans carry it out at Pedana. Pedana is a town in the Machilipatnam area of Andhra Pradesh, India. This style evolved during the Mughal rule and the Golconda Sultanate patronized it. Artisans painted Wall hangings, clothing, large fabrics in the Pedana style of Kalamkari. As a matter of fact, a wall hanging from the 15th Century AD is still being displayed in Victoria Museum, London.

Characteristics of The Machilipatnam Style

The following are the salient features of Kalamkari's Machilipatnam style in points:

1. Block-Printing Technique: This method creates repeating, consistent patterns on cloth by stamping designs onto carved wooden blocks.
2. Detailed Patterns: Contains intricate and detailed designs, such as geometric shapes, vines, and floral motifs.
3. Persian and Mughal Influence: Islamic cultural features are reflected in designs through the influence of Persian and Mughal art.
4. Bright Color Palette: Made using strong, contrasting hues from natural dyes, such as deep reds, indigos, greens, and blacks.
5. Layered hues: This technique applies several blocks of various hues to produce an effect that is multi-dimensional.
6. Natural Dyes: For vibrant, long-lasting colors, use dyes derived from natural sources including plants, roots, and minerals.
7. Durability: The cloth is washed and treated several times to ensure that the colors are deeply absorbed and that it is long-lasting.
8. Wide Range: A wide range of products are available, including sarees, dupattas, wall hangings, and other home decor items.
9. Mass Production: The block-printing technology is appropriate for creating vast quantities of textiles.

Process of Kalamkari art

Kalamkari art is a painstaking and multi-step process that combines creative skill and traditional techniques. Here's a summary of the process:

Fabric Preparation: The process begins with preparing the fabric, which is commonly cotton or silk. To eliminate any starch, oil, or other contaminants, the fabric is first washed in a water-cow dung mixture. This is followed by a treatment with a solution of buffalo milk and myrobalan (a tannin-rich berry) to ensure the fabric is ready to absorb natural dyes. Workers use bamboo or date palm stick pens primarily to craft intricate and highly delicate details. As far as dyes are concerned, workers use various roots, seeds, plant leaves, crushed flowers to extract them. The colours chosen then are usually bright and brilliant. Artisans often choose red, yellow, green, blue in their vivid shades to craft a Kalamkari shawl.

Sketching the Design: After preparing the fabric, the artist freehand paints the contours of the design with a bamboo or tamarind pen dipped in a black dye produced from fermented jaggery (an unrefined sugar) and iron filings. This first draft serves as the foundation for the entire piece, outlining the arrangement and design aspects.

Natural Dye Application: After completing the outline, the artist begins filling in the design with natural dyes. Each color is applied one at a time, frequently beginning with lighter colors and progressing to darker ones. Natural colors are used, such as madder root for red, pomegranate peel for yellow, and indigo for blue.

Following each dye application, the fabric is treated to set the color, which commonly includes washing, drying, and boiling.

Color Fixation: Specific methods are used to ensure that the dyed cloth's colors are permanently set in the fabric. For example, after applying red dye, the fabric could be boiled with alizarin (a natural dye) to increase the color's vitality. Each color has its unique way of fixation, which includes a variety of natural chemicals and processes.

Washing and Drying: Once the design is finished and all colors have been applied, the fabric is washed multiple times to remove excess dye and fix the colors. The fabric is then sun-dried to brighten and set the colors even further.

Final Touches: Any last nuances or extra colors are added to the fabric after it has been cleaned and dried. Sometimes, to improve the pattern, further embellishments like gold or silver accents are applied. After that, the finished item is ironed and prepared for usage as a shawl, a piece of home décor, or a clothing.

Depending on the design's complexity and color scheme, the full process may take a few days to a few weeks. The endurance and superior quality of Kalamkari art depend on each phase, which is why it is a highly esteemed and revered craft.

The Introduction of contemporary methods in Kalamkari art

Modern techniques and sensitivities are combined with traditional craftsmanship in Kalamkari art through the adoption of current approaches. By keeping its cultural legacy intact and adjusting it to modern trends, this evolution has increased Kalamkari's significance and reach. This is a summary of how modern techniques have been incorporated into Kalamkari art:

Modern Kalamkari artists are experimenting with fresh design patterns and styles that fuse traditional themes with contemporary aesthetics. This entails utilizing geometric patterns, abstract patterns, and avant-garde color palettes that satisfy vogue and interior design inclinations.

Digital Printing: Digital technology is now present in Kalamkari, especially in the form of digital prints that accurately reproduce traditional designs. This technique satisfies contemporary market demands while maintaining the essential elements of traditional motifs through faster production and more consistent patterns.

Novel Textiles: Modern Kalamkari artists explore with a range of materials other than the conventional cotton and silk, such as synthetics and mixes. The range of uses for Kalamkari is expanded by this exploration, extending beyond home décor and fashion accessories.

Merged Designs: Modern Kalamkari combines modern and international design elements with traditional motifs, patterns, and themes. The result of this mix is distinctive, hybrid designs that blend well with modern fashion and décor while appealing to a wider audience.

New Methods: In addition to more conventional approaches, modern artists are experimenting with new tools and techniques. More intricate and varied patterns are possible thanks to these advancements, which also expedite the process.

Sustainable ways: In Kalamkari art today, there's a rising focus on sustainability. In keeping with the worldwide trends toward environmental responsibility. Artists and producers are embracing eco-friendly techniques, such as employing sustainable textiles and organic dyes.

Partnerships and Cross-Disciplinary Work: To create cutting-edge goods and applications, contemporary Kalamkari artists frequently work in tandem with designers, architects, and other creatives. By using a cross-disciplinary approach, Kalamkari art now used in more fields, including modern fashion and interior design.

Integration of Artisanal and Industrial Production: Modern approaches occasionally combine industrial production with artisanal practices. Scaled-up production uses modern technology to satisfy larger market demands, while traditional methods are maintained for handcrafted or high-end goods.

By preserving its rich history while guaranteeing Kalamkari art's relevance and attractiveness in the modern global market. These modern techniques have revitalized the art form. Artists keep this old skill alive and dynamic by celebrating it and evolving it with modern ideas and techniques.

Motifs used in Kalamkari Art

Rich and detailed motifs, which capture the breadth of Indian cultural and creative traditions, are the hallmark of kalamkari shawls. These shawls' common designs, frequently inspired by historical accounts, natural phenomena, and Hindu mythology. Extensive representations of gods and goddesses, including Durga, Krishna, and Vishnu, are a feature of traditional designs. These figures, frequently shown in animated and expressive stances. Popular mythological sequences with dramatic occurrences and divine characters thus found in the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The stories' essence, captured by these painstakingly hand-painted or block-printed designs. Also, give the shawls a deeper cultural and spiritual meaning.

Before modernity influenced every realm of life, Kalamkari shawls featured motifs related to religion. Paintings of Hindu deities, some well-known mythological creatures, and symbols, scenes from famous folklores. Also, classics from Hindu Scriptures are the inspirations that artisans draw to make patterns. Contemporary patterns include flowers, peacocks, large paisleys, animal motifs, and even geometrical designs.

Kalamkari shawls often have geometric and floral motifs in addition to religious and mythological themes. These patterns, frequently influenced by Persian and Mughal art elements absorbed into the craft over ages. These themes, used in a way that harmonizes heritage with artistic expression, in addition to adding visual attractiveness. Every Kalamkari shawl, a wearable work of art that celebrates India's rich cultural legacy. It displays the artistry and ability of the craftspeople via its distinctive blend of themes and patterns.

What are Kalamkari Pashmina Shawls?

When it comes to Pashmina shawls, artisans from Kashmir too imbibed this beautiful craft in pure Pashmina shawls. After painting Pashmina shawls with Kalamkari, artisans here hand embroider around the motifs in black. This is another step, in addition to the exquisite steps of Kalamkari. After artisans hand-paint motifs onto the surface of the shawl, they choose a matching. This too takes a lot of time, as Kashmiri Sozni Kars (artisans specializing in Sozni Kari). Thus, give attention to each detail and each motif closely. The final result of a Kalamka.ri and Sozni rendezvous is simply beyond comparison.

Also read: Pashmina belongs to the Clan of Originality

Styles to wear a Kalamkari shawl

Kalamkari shawls carry a detailed, intricate design. These feature magnificent art and flaunt-worthy motifs all over the base. Hence the styles to wear them usually include those where the base is pretty visible. Here are a few styles to wear a handmade Kalamkari Pashmina shawl

• Place it on your shoulders like a wrap, and bring the two sides to the front. This way the pattern on the shawl can be visible from two sides. 
• Wear the shawl like a dupatta so that the patterns on the centre keep your front body covered, in a warm and elegant embrace.
• Let the shawl drape over one shoulder, thus showcasing its entirety, both from the front and back. 
• Let the shawl drape loose from your forearm as if you are not wearing it or are planning to wear it later. 
• Wrapping the shawl around your body, too, makes sure to flaunt this luxury piece to the onlookers. 

Washing, Drying, Ironing and Storing a Kalamkari shawl

Kalamkari Pashmina shawl is a delicate accessory. Hence one should wash it gently. The process of washing the Kalamkari shawl has to be extremely careful. The colours thus natural, and hence should not be lost with vigorous washing. Kalamkari shawls should not be exposed to much sunlight, lest the colors fade. 

Washing: Kalamkari shawls, best washed in Cashmere shampoos or Pashmina shampoos because these are delicate. Add Pashmina shampoo to lukewarm water, and soak your Kalamkari shawl in it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove soap water with your hands by gently squeezing the shawl between your hands. 

Drying: Do not wring the shawl. Dry the shawl in shade, and not in direct sunlight. 

Ironing: Ironing a Kalamkari shawl shouldn't be done directly. There should be a cotton cloth placed in between, or simply a steam iron should be used.  

Storing: Store the shawl in a dry, moisture-free place. Keep mothballs along to stop any infestations. Wrap the shawl in a muslin cloth or paper wrapping. Avoid plastic at all costs.

Handwashing a Kalamkari Pashmina, considered a better option against dry cleaning. Taking proper care of your shawl will increase its life, and it will be a companion for generations to come.

Pashmina shawls and Pashmina.com

Be it Kalamkari Pashmina shawls, hand-embroidered shawls, Printed Pashmina, Laced Pashmina shawls, Kani shawls, or other categories of Pashmina, we master each assortment in terms of variety, patterns, and elegance. Each piece from our classic collections is unique, and exclusive, with features that are unparalleled. Our artisans take months or even years together to perfect each piece. From the time when Cashmere acquired from Ladakh in Spring to its sale in winter. Each step is carefully and meticulously carried out, and how we end up with pure, authentic, and the best quality Pashmina shawls. 

Sustainability and Pashmina.com

Ethical production, sustainability, and fair trade are the core values at Pashmina.com. Be it Kalamkari shawls, Kani shawls, or Hand-embroidered Pashmina shawls, every single piece from our assortment repels cruelty to animals or the planet as a whole. The shawls, ethically acquired from Ladakh, where their raw material is grown over the underbelly of a goat. The goat naturally sheds a portion of the wool; gently combed off (and not sheared or plucked off) its body. 

The wool, called Cashmere, not sent for spinning to convert it into yarn. Yarn is handwoven using traditional handloom and manual techniques to transform fine yarn into luxury shawls. The shawls still plain, which are hand-painted in the realms of Kalamkari (when handcrafting a Kalamkari shawl). Later these hand embroidered in the realms of Sozni embroidery. This leads to the completion of a Pashmina shawl. Thus, sold in the market for the patrons of the art to cherish. 

Also read: What is a Sozni shawl?