An ancient art patron hears about the Pashmina scarf and starts researching about the same. What he finds is Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, embroidery patterns, unprecedented warmth they give, and the best qualities that any winter wrap can have. But after some search, the patron finds that there is the term Cashmere, which is used interchangeably with Pashmina. He searches about Cashmere, finds the term defined in the same way Pashmina was. Is Pashmina Cashmere? Is Pashmina the same as Cashmere? What is the difference between the two, if they aren't the same.
People around the world have often been confused with two specific terms - Cashmere and Pashmina. Some use them interchangeably, while others differentiate them according to what information they have. Being one of the most ardent patrons of Pashmina, and the keepers of it, we too feel the responsibility to differentiate between the two terms. It should be clear in the minds of the general audience before they go out to purchase Cashmere or Pashmina. Let is start with defining Cashmere
What is Cashmere?
Cashmere is the wool that grows on the body of an exotic species of Ladakhi goats. These goats are found in the Changthang area of Ladakh and are hence called Changthangi goats. Cashmere grows as their down fibre and protects from the harsh climate they live in. The region experiences a temperature of -40 degrees C in winter, which would have made life difficult for the goats if it wasn't for Cashmere wool. The wool protects their bodies, and it becomes easy for them to roam around the region, even in such biting cold.
Being so warm, the wool makes the goat uneasy, as winter departs and spring starts. And when finally summer starts, the goat rubs itself all over the region against rough surfaces. As such bushes, rocks, uneven walls, all are found to contain some portion of their wool. This is the wool they leave when rubbing their bodies against them. This wool is collected by herders of the goats besides informing professionals to remove the portion of the same from their bodies. Professionals bring along specialized combs. Then they gently remove the comb off the remaining portion of raw Cashmere, before sending it to Kashmir for processing.
As soon as raw wool reaches Kashmir, it is spun over a spinning wheel. This transforms this cotton ball-like raw wool into fine threads. The threads are as fine as 12 microns, and sometimes not even visible at the first glance. These fine threads are later handwoven over a wooden handloom. By the end of this stage, a shawl or scarf is ready.
What is Pashmina?
The processing of Cashmere is quite arduous. Acquiring raw material from such a region that lies 40000 feet above sea level is a task in itself. Then taking it to Kashmir, meeting womenfolk, who spin Yinder (the wooden charkha which women use to spin Cashmere) and wait for them to finish it (which is a matter of months sometimes), is a task. Then taking the threads to weavers, who weave the spun threads over handloom are the next steps, which are as persevering as the previous ones.
Next, if the wrap is to be embroidered, it has to be handed over to embroidery artisans. It again takes years to complete. Hence Cashmere processing is a journey itself, and not just a matter of some days or weeks. It is an art, which always deserved to be recognized with a name. And that is what happened. Pashmina was the name given to the process of handcrafting luxury pieces from the downy undercoat of the Himalayan goat (Cashmere). And that is where the confusion ends.
History of Pashmina Art
The art of Pashmina started in the 15th century. A traveler named Shah I Hamdan traveled to Kashmir from Persia. It was he, who discovered this fine fibre in Ladakh and ordered socks to be made for the then king Zain Ul Abideen. The king was highly impressed with the warmth and finesse of this newly found fibre. Thereafter Pashmina processing units were started. In these units, raw Cashmere wool was processed and transformed into luxury wraps, apparel, scarves, and more.
When Pashmina scarves gained recognition and spread to Europe, Europeans travelled to Kashmir to have a look at them. They could not pronounce Kashmir as locals do, and instead pronounced it “Cashmere”, and named the wraps the same as well. Hence Cashmere is the name given by Europeans, while Pashmina is the art of processing them, and it is just a local term. Cashmere on the other hand is renowned worldwide.
Is Pashmina more expensive than Cashmere?
While Pashmina only refers to the journey that transforms raw Cashmere to Pashmina shawls, Pashmina scarves, hijabs, and wraps, Cashmere is the wool that transforms wool to sweaters, handkerchiefs, dresses, and many other apparel and accessories. When referring to Pashmina, we talk about just shawls, scarves which are spun, woven, and then embroidered by Kashmiri artisans. But Cashmere is the wool that can be used to craft anything - even socks.
Price of Pashmina and Cashmere
Pashmina is expensive. A Pashmina scarf, on average can be worth US$120 - 300 (dimension is 200 cm x 35cm). It also depends on purity. This is the price of a 100% pure Pashmina scarf, not a fake one that includes threads of silk/nylon. Nevertheless, plain scarves will range from $120 to $150. If the scarf is patterned, printed or lace, it will rise in price. Embroidered scarves might even be priced at $300. Fully embroidered Pashmina shawls or Kani shawls can go thousands of dollars when handmade for 5-6 years together. It is the deft craftsmanship and proficient skill of local artisans which is rewarded when we pay for a Pashmina scarf.
Cashmere on the other may not be as pricey as Pashmina is. When compared to a cashmere sweater, an embroidered Pashmina shawl can sometimes be four times the price of a sweater. Pashmina art takes more skill, labour and time to complete, whereas Cashmere apparel and accessories might not need that much.
Purity of Pashmina - Relation with Cashmere.
The art of Pashmina depends on the purity of Cashmere wool. If the wool acquired from Ladakh is pure, then only Pashmina making will be art. Otherwise, if Cashmere is mixed with silk or nylon, and simultaneously woven in machines called power looms, then Pashmina shawl will not be the result of an artful journey. It will just be a wrap, as any sheep wool product is. For Pashmina to be called an artistic journey, its raw material Cashmere wool has to be pure, authentic, and processed manually, without the use of machines or wastage.
The art of Pashmina is sustainable. It is manual, includes zero wastage, helps in empowering underprivileged artisans and Pashmina scarves remain with you for a lifetime. These are made from natural fibre - Cashmere, which is ethically acquired from Ladakh. And hence buying Pure Cashmere or Pashmina scarf both cases are responsible for shopping.