Cashmere is a luxury fibre. It is fine, lightweight, yet extraordinarily warm and cosy. This accounts for its high price, as well as a great precaution which is to be taken while washing or storing it. Luxury items made from Cashmere have to be cared about in order to extend their life. After all, they beautify you in ways that you could never have imagined. 

Cashmere is a lifetime investment. It comes from the luxury fleece of the Changthangi goat and is manually processed to land in your wardrobes. The tough path it traverses in between makes it highly luxurious, exclusive, rare, and hence pricey. Hence, great care is to be taken while dealing with it. 

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the name given to the fine and warm hair type that grows on the body of the Himalayan goat. It is super fine, lightweight, warm and luxurious. The best Cashmere grows on the body of a Ladakhi goat which is found in the Changthang area of Ladakh. This is the hair that makes luxury shawls, scarves, and sweaters. It is acquired from the goat in hot summers and is later processed to prepare luxuriously warm apparel and accessories. 

Cashmere is famous and has been so since the 18th century when it became a buzzword after Empress Josephine wore it for the first time.  

Cashmere Acquisition and Processing

Acquiring Cashmere is the real challenge when it comes to the production of world-famous Cashmere scarves and wraps. The reason for this difficulty is the place where Cashmere goats are found. 

It is 14000 feet above sea level where temperatures are cold and conditions are hence harsh. We are talking about the Himalayan ranges, where cold days experience -40 degrees C as winter arrives. It is this time when the Cashmere bearing goats grow a layer of warm hair over their bodies. This hair type is super delicate, yet exceptionally warm, enough to help the goats survive the gelid winter season. It is this hair that helps goats bear the tough winter season, and it remains only till these months last. 

As soon as summer arrives, the hair becomes intolerable. The same hair that protected the goat’s body in winter, now makes it uncomfortable in summer. The herders realise this fact, as they see that the goats are rubbing their bodies against rough surfaces. Hence they professionally get the rest of the wool combed off from the goats’ bodies, leaving them free and more or less unloaded. The wool is collected in small pouches and sent for processing

Processing of Cashmere

The main reason for Cashmere being pricey, luxurious and the most sought-after accessory in the world is its process. A meticulous process of converting raw, dishevelled and unkempt wool into lavish and graceful shawls and scarves takes months or years to complete. It is this detail-oriented and heedfully carried out process that makes Cashmere the luxury that it is. Rare, unique and patient demanding yet painstaking at times, Cashmere processing is a joy to watch and wearing the same is an honour to experience. 

The processing of Cashmere starts from cleaning the raw wool. It is filled with dirt, dust, wastes and debris, and therefore needs thorough cleaning. This is done by a group of women, spending a few days doing so. Cashmere fibre is separated one by one and the task is immensely tedious. Clean Cashmere is passed on to spinners, who start another challenge - spinning lumps of clean fibre. 

Spinning the fibre

Start of the process - spinning the fibre which is helter-skelter till now. Women, from the remotest corners, come together and sit in groups, spinning the fibre for months together. The fibre is mounted over a manual spinning wheel which turns the raw Cashmere to fine fibre threads. These threads are just 12 to 16 microns in thickness, which makes them barely visible to the naked eye (when seen from distance).

Hand spinning such fine threads is simply a skill, and comes from decades of experience that these women have. 

Weaving the fibre

Weaving the fibre, too, is a difficult task, and it is the most skillful individuals who perform this yet another task in the making of Cashmere fabric. The transformation of fibre to fabric is beautiful, and the world has been amazed by the same. 

For weaving the Cashmere fibre, which is just out of the spinning process, one has to mount it on a handloom. Handlooms are traditional, and help weavers to weave fibres into shawls, scarves, or just plain fabrics. The fibre from the spinning wheel is stretched manually and then put onto the handloom. One or two individuals sit on the handloom, and in 3 to 4 days convert fibre to fabric. Handlooms take special care that the fibre isn't torn or damaged in any way. It is exactly as gentle to the fabric as the spinning wheel is to the fibre. 

It is after 3 to 4 days that a Cashmere shawl is complete. The average length of this shawl is 200 cm and the breath is 100 cm. Post weaving the shawls is sent for other finishing processes.

Smoothening, Embroidery, Washing and Packaging:

Post weaving, the fabric is still incomplete and needs some finishing touches before it reaches its takers. The shawl/scarf is taken to another set of artisans, who soften its edges, smoothen its base, and pick any foreign fibres from its surface. If the shawl is to be embroidered, it is handed over to another immensely proficient set of artisans, who embroider it. Based on the quantity of embroidery motifs to be done on the shawl or scarf, the work may take a few months or a few years (Kani Jamawar, Sozni Jamawar and more).

Post the finishing of shawls or scarves, they are sent for washing. The washing isn't done in chemical based detergents and soaps but natural soaps and spring water. Washermen for Cashmere are different from commercial laundry washers. It is done manually. The washermen take the products to spring water sources, and wash it with their own hands with an organic soap. Cashmere fabric is air dried and as soon as it dries, it is brought indoors and ironed in the most crisp way over a mechanical roller iron. The shawl is then properly packed and sent for sale. 

This is the process which Cashmere shawls have to go through. It takes days, and at times years. But the final result is simply a masterpiece. 

Does Cashmere Shrink?

Since Cashmere is one of the most pricey as well as sought after luxury for all women who know about it, damaging the same is nothing less than a nightmare. For this reason, if an individual damages a Cashmere scarf or shawl, he/she should know about the reason as well as the remedies. 

One of the most common problems that customers face when dealing with Cashmere is the shrinking of the fabric. At times, if you tend to wash your Cashmere irresponsibly, your precious wrap may shrink or get disfigured. It usually happens when you either wash it in hot water, or maybe use dryers to dry it, or any other mistake that you never knew would cost you a lot. But before you throw the Cashmere out of your wardrobe, or donate it to a thrift store, there might be a chance of saving it. The following pro tips we are going to share with you work best on shrunk natural fibres. Synthetic fibre does not respond to these techniques, and if by chance synthetics shrink, it is nearly impossible for them to return back to their original position. 

Here is a guide that tells you the reasons why your Cashmere might have shrunk and how you can restore it to its original form.

Also read: How to wash Cashmere at home?

What makes Cashmere shrink?

Cashmere is considered the ultimate luxury. Handcrafted for months together out of rare goat wool, Cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep wool, yet extremely lightweight. With such a high-end product in your hand, you have got to be extra careful in order to deal with it. Proper washing, drying, and storing should be a child’s play for you if you own a piece. 

There are mainly two reasons for Cashmere to shrink. First is the structure. Cashmere is animal hair, and all wool fabrics are sensitive to high heat and moisture. Hence if your high end, luxury shawl/scarf has been in direct contact with heat or moisture, it is bound to face shrinking. Secondly, careless washing or drying will definitely leave a scar on your scarf. If you wash your Cashmere at home with hot water, there are high chances its quality will deteriorate or it will shrink. Hence, immense care has to be taken when handling Cashmere. Here are more details why your Cashmere might have shrunk.

More reason for shrinking of Cashmere

• Cashmere is delicate. So the first reason that it can shrink is washing it in hot water. Similar to all wool fabrics, Cashmere too is inherently sensitive to high-heat and moisture.
• Did you wash your wrap in a washing machine? If you haven't set the temperature of the washing machine to cold, and not set it to a “hand wash” setting, then you have done a blunder. It will definitely shrink. 
• Ironing your Cashmere wraps directly can also be a reason they shrink. If you directly iron a semi wet Cashmere wrap, there are high chances of it either shrinking or pilling.
• The worst method to dry it is to use dryers. If at all you have used a dryer to dry your shawl or wrap, then be ready to look for methods to unshrink it. 
• Did you use a harsh detergent to wash your Cashmere? That was a disaster. It is delicate, and for this reason, markets are filled with Cashmere shampoos. If you are short of one, use a baby shampoo or conditioner instead. Avoid detergents that you use for normal laundry. 

Can you save a shrunken wrap?

Well, the good news is, yes. You can unshrink your Cashmere. But there is again a condition. If your Cashmere has been damaged to a level that it is felted, then the reversal is not possible. Again, check if the shrunk Cashmere has any stretch left. If there is, then celebrate, as it can be stretched and unshrunk again. 

How to Unshrink Cashmere?

To save your precious shawl or wrap, you need several household items: a large tub, mild shampoo or fabric softener, weights, or clothespins which can hold the Cashmere tightly. 

• Fill the large tub with lukewarm water
• Pour in the fabric softener or the baby shampoo or any of the alternatives you are using. 
• Soak the wrap or sweater into this mixture for two hours till it becomes stretchy.
• After 2 hours, take the wrap or sweater out and do not rinse it yet.
• Squeeze all the extra water out, without wringing the product.
• Lay the wrap on a flat surface and stretch the edges as long as it comes to its original size. 
• Place weights on them or pin the edges with the surface underneath to keep the wrap in a stretched position. 
• Leave it like this for an hour to start with, and check if it has regained its original state. If not, leave it again for as long as it gains its actual size.
• As soon as the wrap or sweater retains its original size, rinse it with cold water, and lay out flat on a towel.
• Roll the towel to squeeze and absorb the extra amount of water.
• Unroll the wet towel now, and replace it with a dry towel. 
• Place the wrap/shawl flat on the dry towel and let it rest there till it air dries. 

As soon as it is completely dry, your precious piece will have regained its actual state. 

Precautions to be taken in future

Washing

Always handwash Cashmere. Fill a tub with lukewarm water and Cashmere shampoo. Soak your Cashmere in it for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, squeeze the water out and rinse it with cold water. 

If washing in a washing machine, make sure to use the cold water setting, and handwash from the settings. Quickly take your Cashmere out of it as soon as the wash cycle ends.

Drying

Do not put your Cashmere in dryers. It is best to let your Cashmere air dry naturally. Do not hang your wraps as they may become deformed. Do not dry them in direct sunlight. 

The best way to dry Cashmere shawls and scarves is rolling them in between two clean and dry towels. Place two dry, clean towels under and over the scarf and roll them. This will squeeze extra water from it. Then lay the scarf on another flat surface and let it air dry, even if it takes a few days.

Storing

Store your Cashmere in a tissue paper bag, and not in plastic bags. Plastic tends to attract mixture which can be detrimental for these precious products. Place the wrapped Cashmere on a clean, dry shelf in your wardrobe. Place mothballs around the area if needed. 

Wash the Cashmere wrap/shawl once every season. Too much washing too can prove inimical to this luxury product. 

With the proper care and concern, you can again make your Cashmere products as fresh as new. 

Also read: Is it worth buying Cashmere?

FAQs  - Does Cashmere Shrink

A large number of Cashmere fans keep asking questions about the shrinking of Cashmere. We have incorporated several to make it easy to understand. 

Question 1: Does hand washing Cashmere Shrink it?

Answer: This answer comes from our fabric experts. If washed properly, hand washing is the best alternative when it comes to cleaning Cashmere. Washing it in lukewarm water, rinsing it gently, and air drying it helps to clean Cashmere without any compromise to the fibre. If washed with hot water, or if rinsed harshly, Cashmere can shrink or lose its shape forever. 

Question 2: Does Cashmere shrink in the dryer?

Answer: Dryers operate by using hot air to dry out washed clothes. This does dry clothes properly, but that is not how Cashmere (or other wools) has to be dried. Any direct contact to heat will definitely shrink your Cashmere scarves, shawls and sweaters. If you want the long life of your Cashmere, you have to air dry it. This is the best way to dry it, even if it means keeping it in the air for a few days. 

Question 3: Does Cashmere shrink when it is dry cleaned?

Answer: No, dry cleaning does not shrink Cashmere. In fact, some Cashmere scarves do mention on their labels to only dry clean them. Hence, dry cleaning will be the last reason that your Cashmere scarf shrunk in the process. 

If, in case, after sending your Cashmere for dry cleaning, you feel it has shrunk, then the cleaner is to be blamed. Maybe the one cleaning your precious scarf wasn't knowledgeable enough, or maybe he used the wrong cleaning process or agent. Nevertheless, dry cleaning is the safest method as far as cleaning Cashmere is concerned.

Question 4: Does Cashmere shrink over time?

Answer: If washed and stored properly, Cashmere will never shrink. As a matter of fact, Cashmere is believed to acquire an even more graceful look as it ages. 

At times, customers use incorrect ways and methods of washing, drying or storing Cashmere scarves. For example, one might wash the scarf in hot water, or hang it for drying or so. All these methods tend to damage the fibre, and hence cause Cashmere to shrink. The shrinking is almost immediate in some of these cases. 

If, however, proper precaution and care is taken of the Cashmere, it will survive for a lifetime. Hand washing Cashmere with lukewarm water, air drying it, and storing it properly in a moisture free space, away from sunlight, will eventually be very fruitful for the Cashmere user. 

Question 5: Can the shrinking of Cashmere be undone?

Answer: Yes it can. If by chance your Cashmere scarf or shawl (or an outfit) has been shrunk, there are ways to undo so. One just has to prepare a large wash basin and fill it with water (not too cold, not too hot). Then pour Cashmere shampoo in it and soak Cashmere in it for at least 2 hours. The water is to be thrown away after 2 hours after rinsing the scarf gently. 

Now, spread the scarf on a flat surface and start pulling the edges (gently) with your hands. You can ask for someone’s help if you want. After stretching the scarf manually, hold it for sometime in the same position. You can place weights on it for an easy approach. 

Conclusion.

If a wearer asks "Does Cashmere shrink, we know they are heartbroken already. After all, it is a product of premium price and luxury. After spending thousands of dollars for a scarf and wearing it to the most extravagant events, one might lose all hope of recovering a damaged Cashmere. But there are techniques to win these luxury pieces back. Unshrinking Cashmere is possible. But as they say, prevention is better than cure. Always check the label of your Cashmere scarf. This will be the first warning that the seller is giving the wearer. 

Another precautions that the wearer has to take is washing the Cashmere in cold water. Hot water damages the fibre. Washing, drying and storing have to be extra careful, as these three will determine the life of a Cashmere scarf. 

We are all in love with Cashmere, and hence do not want these luxury pieces to lose their natural sheen and elegance. so, we would love our Cashmere shawls or scarves to be as elegant as the 18th century ones, which swooned queens off their feet. We, too, would love to look as elegant as Empress Josephine did when she wore a Kashmiri Kani shawl that her husband gifted her. And we want them for so many years to come. But with long life comes super cautious handling.